How to make a frame for mounting drywall. How to mount a frame from a metal profile on a wall on your own Construction of a frame for drywall

Frame mounting drywall is the most popular way to install suspended ceilings, partitions, arches and other structures from this material.

Scheme metal frame for plasterboard ceilings.

If the technology of working with GKL is understandable and mastered, then with your own hands you can do everything that your imagination is capable of in terms of reconstructing and decorating the room.

But the most important thing is to learn how to make a frame for drywall. It is the basis of any design, therefore, special requirements are imposed on its installation.

Materials and tools used to make the frame

• metal profile:

1. guide profile. It is represented by the product PN28/27. It is used as a part holding the rack and ceiling profiles in line.
2. Ceiling profile PP 60/27. It is used for mounting vertical and horizontal racks, various lintels and curved curly structural parts.
3. Rack profile. Along the entire length of the product in the central part there are special grooves designed to make it much easier to fasten the screws during the installation of the structure. It can also be used for different kind racks, jumpers and curved parts.
4. Suspension straight or shortened. It is a part designed to fix the racks of their metal profile to the walls and ceiling.
5. Connector single-level crab. Designed for fastening and reinforcing knots from profiles crossed at right angles.
6. Various connectors for the profile, which are designed for joining its segments.
7. Spring suspension. It will be needed if, during the installation of a false ceiling, the structure needs to be lowered more than the use of suspensions will allow.
8. Self-tapping screws for metal SMM 3.5 / 51, which are of two types: sharp and with a drill-shaped end.

• wooden bars.

Frame diagram for drywall construction from wooden blocks.

Previously, drywall was attached to wooden frames. With the advent of the metal profile, the need to use bars has disappeared due to undeniable advantage become:

• frame made of metal profile is not subject to decay;
• it will not be damaged by wood bugs;
• it does not absorb moisture and does not deform as a result;
• metal racks will not dry out, will not crack, will not creak over time when the floor moves;
• the profile is many times more durable than wood, it is cheaper and has a much lower weight.

Therefore, it makes sense to mount a wooden frame for drywall with your own hands if you have a sufficient amount of dry timber at your disposal, which has nowhere else to go. You can’t count on the bar that is on free sale: in the vast majority of cases it is freshly sawn and has high humidity. If a frame is mounted from such a material, then soon it will certainly deform, as the tree will begin to dry and bend.

Tools for mounting the frame.

Tools that will be needed in the process of work:

1. Hammer drill or impact drill.
2. Battery powered screwdriver.
3. Levels: water, construction, laser.
4. Roulette, marker, pencil, square.
5. Knife for cutting drywall.
6. Scissors for metal or a grinder with a thin disc for metal.
7. If you decide to make a frame from a bar, then you will need saws and a jigsaw.

Installation technology of a wooden frame under drywall

This design is easy to do with your own hands. But there are two ways to get the job done: soft and hard.

Scheme of the device of a wooden frame for a plasterboard partition.

Hard mounting method:

1. This is the oldest and simplest method by which you can properly mount a wooden frame. Work begins with markup. If the frame is needed for the ceiling, then along the walls with the help of a water level and a paint cord, a horizontal line is located and beaten off. Next, the ceiling is drawn on the line along which the timber will be attached. The step between them is 40-60 cm. If the frame needs to be mounted for walls, then a similar marking is made on them.
2. We begin to do the strapping with our own hands: the beam is attached along the contour of the surface that needs to be sheathed with drywall. If a false ceiling is planned, then the strapping is attached along the marking lines to the wall. If a partition is being built or a wall is being leveled, then the bars must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the area being sewn up by the GKL.
3. The sequence of these works is as follows: holes are drilled along the entire length of the bars with a step of 30-40 cm, a little larger than a nail, with which we will mark the walls. Wooden planks are applied to the wall and with the help of a nail and a hammer we get marks. These places are drilled and plastic dowels 40/60 or 40/40, or ordinary chopsticks, are inserted into the holes. Thus, we will do the strapping with our own hands.
4. Between the bars we stretch a fishing line or thread, which will serve as a guide for installing vertical or horizontal racks.
5. In the same way, as in the case of strapping, we correctly install the desired straps.

Technology of "soft" installation of a wooden frame:

1. The main difference between this method of assembling a frame from a bar is the use of direct suspensions: “P”-shaped brackets for working with a metal profile. Thanks to them, the speed of installation of structures is significantly increased.
2. Suspensions are attached along the marking lines for racks in increments of 40-50 cm.
3. The bars are attached to them using suitable wood screws.
4. The technology of mounting the frame is similar to assembling it from a metal profile.

How to make a frame from a metal profile for walls or ceilings

Marking the frame for drywall construction: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angular ruler and a level; 2 - using a level and a pencil, you should make an even marking for attaching profiles; 3 - we apply the profile to the markup and fasten the profile to the floor and wall; 4 - we use a plumb line to mark the place of attachment of the profile; 5 - we assemble the frame and check its evenness with a level.

markup

To do this correctly milestone works, you need to understand two things: for the installation of interior partitions, niches, for leveling the walls, the markings start from the floor. Here the lines are marked along which the profiles PN 28/27 will be attached. They must be strictly parallel, and the distance between them must be equal to the thickness of the partition or the distance from the base wall.

Second step

Correctly transfer the markings from the floor to the ceiling. Here you need a building plumb line. With its help, we carry out the necessary projection of the markup: several points are placed on the ceiling, which are combined into solid lines. Next, we calculate the location of the vertical racks for working with walls, and horizontal ones for the ceiling. The pitch of the racks is 40-60 cm. On these lines we make marks along which we will mount the suspensions. The distance between them is 40-50 cm.

We install the guide profile PN 28/27

If we make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, then we fasten the profile along the lines on the walls. They determine the height of the first level of the structure. It should be checked whether the markings are applied correctly and whether they correspond to the horizontal. If we sheathe a wall, then we fasten the guides along the lines on the floor and ceiling.

We install a rack or ceiling profile

With scissors for metal, cut the racks of the desired length. At the marking points for suspensions, we drill holes for dowels or anchors. If a frame for a false ceiling is mounted, then in no case should plastic dowels be used for quick installation. The fact is that drywall constructions have quite big weight and over time, the plastic screws will come out and the ceiling will deform. We insert the prepared racks from the ceiling or rack profile into the guides and fix them in the hangers with self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51. We bend the sides of the suspensions (“whiskers”) to the base surface.

The technology of mounting a frame from a metal profile for curly elements

The technology of mounting a frame from a metal profile for curly elements: 1 - we do metal scissors every few cm; 2 - applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position and fasten it; 3 - dry bending GKL with cutting longitudinal cuts; 4 - fasten the GKL to the frame.

First you need to learn how to bend the profile correctly. To do this, you need to draw a curved line on the walls, ceiling or drywall. With scissors for metal, we make cuts every 5 cm in the side walls of PP 60/27. Applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position.

For the installation of curly elements: arches and various curved parts, you need to learn how to properly deform drywall. This will allow you to do it yourself quality plating designs. For these works, the GKL sheet must have a thickness of no more than 6 mm.

Wet bending drywall. On one side of the sheet we do right amount shallow punctures, about a third of the thickness of the material with a distance between points of 1.5-2 cm. Using a sponge or brush with soft bristles, we wet the surface of the sheet from the side of the punctures. We repeat the process until the moisture is no longer absorbed by the gypsum. We impose GKL on a pre-prepared template and fix it. After 12-20 hours, the drywall will take the desired shape and dry.

Dry bending GKL. This method requires care and accuracy. On one side of the sheet, longitudinal cuts are made, up to the depth of the cardboard on the reverse side of the GKL. These seams are milled. That is, with a sharp knife, chamfers are removed, the cut angle of which depends on what bending diameter is required to manufacture the desired part. The wider and deeper the grooves, the smoother and tighter the bend will be. After that, the drywall is attached to the template, and the cut grooves are cleaned of dust and puttied.

Arch frame installation technology

First, on a sheet of drywall, draw the arched bend itself, mark its height and the width of the side panels. In a word, we draw the front side of the arch that we need.

We cut this part with an electric jigsaw. We transfer it to mirror image on another sheet of drywall. Thus, we get two details of the arched opening.

On the walls or in the interior opening we make markings.

We fix the guide profile along the marking lines.

First of all, a heater is laid in the space between the racks, if necessary.

On the drywall parts we draw several lines arranged vertically: in the direction of the height of the arch. They will mark the places of the racks reinforcing the frame. We put the profile PP 60/27 on the markup and cut along the lines of the plank of the desired length. Important: the lower part of the profiles must be made rounded according to the bend of the arch.

We insert the vertical racks into the guides and mount the frame.

We measure the length of the bend of the arch with a tape measure and, according to the measurement, cut off the profile PP 60/27.

We cut it from both ends every 5 cm. We bend the rack according to the template. We fasten to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Now it's the turn of the drywall lining of the arch.

We sheathe the frame with sheets of plasterboard

There is nothing complicated in this work. First of all, a heater is laid in the space between the racks, if necessary. Then, using self-tapping screws on the GVL, drywall is mounted. It must be fastened to the frame in such a way that there is no tension in the material. This can be achieved in two ways: fasten the sheets, starting from the middle and gradually moving towards the edges. Or start the installation from one of the corners and evenly fasten the sheet on both sides.

You can not tightly join the sheets with each other. It is necessary to leave a gap of 2-3 mm. If there are no chamfers along the edges, you need to make them yourself by cutting off the edge at a slight angle. It happens that the chamfers are forgotten to be done on time, but this situation is fixable. It will be necessary to widen the gaps between the sheets of plasterboard with a sharp knife. At the end of the work, the surface of the drywall should be wiped with a damp cloth.

Let's start sanding. It is carried out with mixtures specially produced for this purpose: Rotband, Knauf, Fugenfüller, etc. The dry composition is diluted with water and rubbed into the seams with a rubber spatula. It is important to putty all the fastening points of the self-tapping screws. Long and corner seams are glued with a sickle and only after that they are processed with a putty mixture. After the surface has dried, we begin to grind it with a special mesh and a holder for it. But you can also use fine sandpaper.

Today even a child knows what drywall is and how to work with it correctly. This material is simple, but at the same time reliable and durable, and that is why it is so popular. But if, as a rule, there are no problems with fixing the sheets, then mounting the frame under the drywall on the wall often causes certain difficulties for those who are going to do the repairs themselves.

In this article, we will detail how to deal with this at first glance. challenging task, and by the end of the material, you will realize that your fears were greatly exaggerated.

Mounting the drywall frame on the walls, as well as any other repair, begins with preparation. This applies to both surface preparation and tools and everything you need.

Professional finishers know that sometimes it can take much longer to find a pencil or a tape measure than to do the actual work. In addition, there is a high probability of undermining your nervous system during these searches.

To prevent this from happening, we will give you a list of everything you may need in order to make a frame for a drywall wall quickly and without too much fuss:

• Pencil and tape measure. The first tool that should always be at hand. during the installation process, we will need it repeatedly, so we put it in the most visible place, and even better in the pocket of our clothes.
• Building level. Without this tool, making a wall frame for drywall is simply impossible. Unless, of course, you plan to make everything crooked and untidy. Do not plan, then prepare several levels at once different lengths and with different eyes.
• A hammer. Needless to say, no repair is complete without this tool. Ideally, if there are several hammers different sizes, from a small shoe, to medium sizes.

• Perforator and drill to it. In some cases, when, for example, the walls are built of wood or aerated concrete, you can use a simple drill that will do just fine with these materials. If your walls are built of brick, then you simply cannot do without a perforator.
• screwdriver. In principle, you can replace it with the same drill, but working with it is not so convenient, besides, screwdrivers are battery-powered, which means that the wires will not bother you. Also, a screwdriver will need a bit - a nozzle in the form of a short Phillips screwdriver, with which screws are twisted.

So, all the tools are assembled, and lies at hand, and it's time to prepare everything necessary materials. We will not give the quantity, since the calculation is always carried out individually, so we will only give a list.

Advice! Ideally, for marking use a modern laser level, which will not only simplify the work, but also significantly speed up. Of course, this pleasure is not cheap, but you can look for a company in your city that rents construction tool for rent. You pay a little, but the work will be much easier.

So, here is a list of materials that we will need in order to build a frame on a drywall wall:

• Plastic dowels. Always take them with a margin, since it is almost impossible to calculate the exact amount.
• plumb lines. Metal plates with holes that keep the guides away from the walls.
• Crabs. Fasteners, which fix the guides in the places of their intersection with each other.

Well, and finally, the material itself, from which the frame will be caught.

There are three options to choose from, each of which has its own characteristics:

1. Wooden block. The cheapest and most durable material. It is believed that plasterboard walls on wooden frame, serve much less, and this is due to the characteristics of the tree, which absorbs moisture and is able to deform over time.

1. Metallic profile. What is called - cheap and cheerful. Such a frame has only one significant limitation - it cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Metal quickly rusts, and impartial yellow spots may eventually appear on the surface of the finish, especially if you use painting or natural wallpaper.
2. Galvanized profile. The most expensive, but at the same time, high-quality material, the price of which is fully justified, it can be used in any room. Zinc coating does not allow the metal to rust, and such a frame lasts much longer.

Which of these materials to choose is your business, but we recommend not saving on this, and immediately taking a profile with a galvanized coating, so that in a couple of years you will not encounter problems that are very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to solve without radical intervention. So, the materials have been selected, the tools have been prepared, which means that we can proceed to the first stage of our work.

Marking

Before you make a frame for drywall on the wall, this same wall must be marked. The quality of the entire finish as a whole directly depends on how evenly and efficiently the markup is applied, so we stock up on patience, pick up a pencil and a tape measure and go ahead!

So, first of all, we need to catch the level of the walls. To do this, take a tape measure, and step back a few centimeters from the corner. Now, we connect these two marks along the floor. At this point, the main mounting profile will pass.

Now, the same thing needs to be built on the ceiling. We have two lines that should run strictly parallel to each other.

Now, we retreat from one of their walls exactly 2050 millimeters. it standard size drywall sheet, and it is necessary that its edge lies exactly in the middle of one of the frame profiles.

Further, we retreat the same distance, and so on until the wall ends. We have places where the guides will stand in without fail, but the distance is too large, so we break it into sections of about 40-60 centimeters. This is quite enough so that the sheet of drywall does not sag, and it was difficult to break through it.

All is ready. Now we have a row vertical stripes, but we need to determine the places for attaching plumb lines. To do this, we simply divide the height of the wall in half, and put a mark in this place. Now, we divide each segment in half again, and so on until the distance between the nearest points approaches the mark of 30-60 centimeters.

Important! Drywall walls whose frame was assembled without strict adherence to the level may subsequently turn out to be very crooked. Drywall will easily bend to the desired position, but will be in constant tension, and sooner or later it will burst. That is why it is impossible to neglect this seemingly insignificant stage of finishing.

At these points, we will not only install plumb lines, but also horizontal guides will pass, which is why it is so important to strictly observe the level at all stages of marking the wall.

We mount the frame

Next we have the dirtiest and loudest stage, and if you do not want to become enemies with your neighbors, do not do this work early in the morning, late in the evening or on weekends.

So, we pick up a puncher, and drill holes of the required depth at all the marking points that we set. Here it is important to accurately catch the drilling depth, since if it is insufficient, then the dowel simply will not fix the plumb line, and pulling it out of the wall will be very, very problematic.

Now, with the help of dowels, he fixes the plumb lines, and bend their edges perpendicular to the wall. Everything, preparatory work over, and you can proceed to fixing the guides.

First of all, we fix the main profiles to the floor and ceiling. The remaining elements of the crate will be inserted into them, therefore, the stronger the fasteners, the better.

We insert guides into the fixed profiles, and align them with a vertical level. This step must be taken very seriously, otherwise we will have to cut each sheet of drywall later, and this is a very long task, which can be completely avoided.

We fix the profile set to the level with the help of self-tapping screws to pre-bent plumb lines. And we repeat this procedure with all segments of the crate.

Our drywall frame walls are almost ready, it remains only to expose the horizontal elements. To do this, we simply apply the profile to the crate that we already have, and mark the points of contact with a pencil. Further along the marks, we make cuts with scissors for metal, and fasten the profiles, guided by the level readings.

That's basically it, the frame is ready, and it remains only to fix the drywall and do the basic finishing, but this is a topic for a separate article.

And in conclusion

Well, here we figured out how to make a wall frame for drywall. As you can see, there is nothing complicated or impossible here. The process is more like assembling a children's designer, only the parts are larger and heavier.

The most important thing is not to be afraid to take on a job, even if you do not have the relevant experience, and our site will be happy to answer any questions that you may have in the process. Frameless installation of drywall on the walls is not difficult, but responsible. Look at the photo and you can get to work.

What interior partitions, dropped ceilings, arches or false walls are mounted on a pre-made frame from a drywall profile, not only experienced, but also many novice craftsmen know. However, beginner craftsmen often have many questions related specifically to the installation or assembly of individual frame components from a metal profile for drywall.

The main nodes when installing a plasterboard ceiling

The metal frame for drywall on the ceiling is mounted from two types of profile: guide and carrier. The guide profile is attached to the wall with expansion anchors. Holes are pre-drilled in the profile through which they are drilled into the wall. Usually the pitch between the anchors is 40-50 cm. If the ceiling structure is complex and the total load is significant, then the pitch between the anchors is reduced to 30 cm.

Carriers ceiling profiles they are placed parallel to each other so that the drywall sheet is attached to at least three profiles. When assembling a frame for drywall from a metal profile, the supporting profiles are inserted to the full depth into the guides and mounted with 1-2 self-tapping screws for metal.

Considering that drywall sheets are of considerable weight, the bearing profiles should not sag. To do this, each carrier profile in increments of 50-60 cm is tied to ceiling plate ceilings with perforated hangers. The installation of suspensions on the floor slab is carried out with expansion anchors, and the metal plates of the suspensions hanging down are fixed with self-tapping screws to the vertical shelves of the supporting ceiling profile.

Crosspieces of the same material are mounted transversely to whole parallel supporting profiles. As a result, the drywall frame on the ceiling visually resembles a cage with regular squares or rectangles. To fix the jumper between two whole profiles, a connecting element is used - a crab. The standard crab is a four-sided cross-shaped plate, which is placed on top of the connected horizontal profiles and fixed with self-tapping screws.

If the total ceiling area is small, then instead of connecting crabs, it is allowed to mount jumpers to parallel solid profiles directly using the provided wings. To do this, the jumper is made 12-15 cm longer than the opening for it. After that, cuts are made at both ends of the jumper and bent into different sides her wings. Installation is carried out by fastening the wing and the adjacent profile with a self-tapping screw.

If the frame is being installed under drywall for two-level ceiling, then it often becomes necessary to connect intersecting profiles not in a single horizontal plane, but in steps. For such a connection, a two-level crab. A two-level crab is located above the topmost profile and is attached to its shelves with self-tapping screws. Bottom profile is fixed by the crab due to its spacer ears.

It often happens that the length of the room exceeds the length of the carrier profile. In this case, two supporting metal profiles are spliced ​​together using an internal connecting plate. The plate is placed up to the middle in the profile and fastened to its side shelves with self-tapping screws, after which the second profile is put on the second end of the plate and it is fixed in the same way.

It is also worth mentioning the longitudinal method of splicing profiles. It is mainly used in the manufacture of . Where the partition will be installed door frame, rack profiles reinforce.

This stand is made up of two different profiles. A bearing wall profile is inserted into the guide floor profile and self-tapping screws are screwed on both sides of the shelves in increments of 30 cm.

This assembled item is suitable if total weight doors will be small. If the door is heavy, then vertical stand reinforced with wooden beams.

Metal profile mounting methods

The main nodes and how to assemble a frame from a drywall profile were discussed above. Now let's talk directly about the methods of fastening profiles and their components. There are three main ways to connect profiles.

• Self-tapping screws for metal;
• Notch (cutter);
• Aluminum rivets.

Self-tapping screws for metal are used with a sharp tip and frequent threads. The length of the self-tapping screws is 9.5-11 mm, the width is 3.5 mm. The slot at the self-tapping screw must be cross-shaped. To screw a self-tapping screw, use a screwdriver with a cross-shaped nozzle installed in the cartridge. In principle, it is possible to tighten the self-tapping screw manually using a curly screwdriver, but on large volume works this way is unproductive.

The method of fastening profiles with a punch does not require any Supplies. This method of connection consists in the fact that with the help of a cutter at the installation point, several breakdowns are made. When installing with a cutter, one profile must necessarily be included in another profile. That is, overhead installation will not work in any way.

The method of connecting profiles for hl with aluminum rivets is the least common. For example, when the question arises, how to make a drywall frame for a two-level asymmetric ceiling. The bottom line is that in order to assemble such a complex structure, you have to use a lot of homemade or purchased arched profiles. Considering that the arched profile has a lower bearing capacity than a conventional supporting profile, its installation should be carried out with a more reliable installation.

The connection method with aluminum rivets can be considered the most reliable. However, due to the high cost of rivets and their necessary a large number, this method is used when it is really impossible to perform installation in a different way. In a standard situation, installation is carried out with self-tapping screws or a cutter.

A fairly popular design option for the ceiling is the installation of drywall, through which you can equip original design. But for its installation, it is necessary to properly equip the frame for drywall on the ceiling. When installing it, there are some design marking features that should be taken into account when carrying out work.

Construction stages

To begin with, it is worth considering the stages of work, which involves the installation of a frame for a plasterboard ceiling in a room:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Surface measurements and material calculation.
3. Markup.
4. Preparation of materials.
5. Profile mounting.

Each of them is equally important, because when a frame for a plasterboard ceiling is set up, its scheme is drawn up during preparation.

What kind of profile do you need?

Before proceeding to consider the design device technology, it is necessary to determine the materials used, namely, which profile to use.

Designation of profiles and difference in abbreviation:

Depending on their purpose and design requirements, profiles can be presented in different sizes.

For the installation of a frame on the ceiling for drywall, we need two types of profile, namely the guide (PN) and the ceiling (PP).

Starting ceiling PN
You will need such a software

Also, do not forget about the fasteners for the profile, which can also be represented by several types:

Surface measurements

To begin with, it is worth measuring the length and width of the ceiling. Based on them, calculations of materials will be carried out.

The material itself is calculated as follows:

• We divide the length of the room by 60 centimeters. This way we get the number of guide fasteners.
• The width of the room will serve as an indicator for the length of the profiles.
• We also divide the width by 60 centimeters, as a result we get the number of transverse bars from the profile.
• In total, in the end, we should get a grid of profiles on which the sheets will be fixed.
• Now we multiply the number of guides by the width of the room, after which the number of transverse fasteners by the length and add up the resulting figures. This way we get the total length of the profile that we need. Based on it, the profile itself will be acquired in the future.

In the same way, they are calculated for the profile, which are provided for every 30-40 centimeters.

markup

The next step is to mark the ceiling under the drywall frame. For her, we need a tape measure, a pencil, nails or screws, a thread and a level.

The markup itself is carried out as follows:

It is important to correctly markup according to the dimensions of the GKL. This requires .

Preparation of materials

Now you need to prepare the materials for installation. You can cut the profile directly during the installation of the drywall frame on the ceiling, but it would be better to prepare it in advance.

As it has already become clear, preparation involves cutting a profile in accordance with the size of the room. To carry out the work, we need a tape measure, a pencil and a grinder (or a hacksaw for metal).

We need to make a frame for drywall on the ceiling in accordance with all the dimensions of the room, therefore it is necessary to cut segments from the profile. Let's take for example a room measuring 4 * 6 meters, and we will calculate the materials for it, and consider how to prepare them. Accordingly, for large rooms, the calculation of the plasterboard frame on the ceiling will be carried out in a similar way.

After it's been counted required amount profile, using scissors for metal or a grinder, we cut out the necessary segments.

Frame fastening and assembly of the structure

wiring device

Also, at the installation phase of the frame for drywall, you must immediately prepare the wiring for lighting. Its laying is carried out along corrugated pipes from the nearest junction box.

There are a few things to note here:

1. For the wiring device, it is necessary either to purchase a profile in which special holes for electrical wiring are provided, or to arrange them yourself in advance.
2. The fastening of the corrugated tube is carried out using special clips or clamps in increments of 30-40 centimeters.

More details about

The construction market offers a lot of materials for renovation, but drywall competition, which allows you to embody any design idea, difficult to compose. It not only perfectly levels any surface, but also saves space. After all, a metal frame based on a special profile does not take up much space, does not lend itself to corrosion, withstands significant loads, and is not damaged by insects. Partitions and ceilings, niches and arches will last a long time if the installation of the frame for sheathing it with drywall is done correctly.

The frame is mounted using several types of profile:

• Guide profile ud determines the plane of the future design. It is used not only to connect the product with the base, but also to combine several planes of the product being created.
• Carrier profile cd withstands the weight of the finished surface, since drywall is fixed on it.
• Partition profiles uw and cw differ from the previous types only in size, as they are used to create plasterboard partitions. Release uw and cw different widths: 50mm, 75mm, 100mm, 125mm and 150mm.
• Profile Connectors There are 3 types: straight cd, cruciform cd ("crab") and two-level cd. The first type is used to extend the carrier profile, the second - for cruciform connections and the third connects the carrier profiles in different planes.
• U-bracket Designed specifically for fixing to the ceiling or walls of a load-bearing profile.
• quick suspension used in the creation of ceiling molds. It consists of a spoke with a loop that secures it to the ceiling and a spring latch that slides over the spoke. The device allows you to quickly level the frame. Among the disadvantages is the inability to use at a short distance from the ceiling to the floor slabs.

The drywall profile is not the only component of the future frame.

In addition to the listed profiles, the installation of a metal frame requires fasteners:

• self-tapping texes Ø 3.5 mm and 9.5 mm long, connecting the profiles;
• self-tapping screws for metal Ø 3.5 mm and a length of 25 mm, fixing drywall;
• dowels Ø 6 mm for mounting profiles and other fasteners on walls and floor slabs.

Ceiling frame manufacturing technology

The frame for the ceiling structure has the form of a grid, which is formed by cd load-bearing profiles, fixed on the walls with ud guides and on the ceiling with U-shaped brackets or a quick hanger.

The installation of the grid in one parallel is carried out with profiles with a pitch of 400 mm, and perpendicularly - every 2.5 m.

The ceiling, sheathed with plasterboard, will hide the lamps or LED strip installed in any order.

The jumpers used to connect the sheets to each other are installed using the cd crab connector.

The frame is fixed to the ceilings with suspensions or U-shaped brackets, which must be installed at intervals of 500 mm under each supporting profile.

At each stage, the frame for attaching drywall sheets must be controlled by a level - hydraulic or laser. The guide profiles are checked by level, and the carrier profiles are checked by a stretched thread. You can fix the line with a pencil or beat off with a cord.

Installation of a frame for drywall for wall cladding

Compared to the technology for manufacturing a ceiling frame, it is easier to make a base for a plasterboard wall. Vertical bearing profiles are installed in 600 mm increments in the center. Two are placed along the edges of the drywall sheet and the third in the middle.

The plane of the wall is correctly formed in this way: at the first stage, the installation of the guide profile is carried out on the floor, then - with the help of a level - on the walls and at the last step - on the ceiling.

In the space between the walls and drywall, insulation, sound-absorbing material, and a cassette air conditioner can be laid.

On the walls, the supporting profile is fixed with U-shaped brackets, located in increments of 600 mm. When sheathing a wall, one wall is first trimmed (from profile installation to drywall installation) and only then the frame is mounted on the next wall.

Mounting the frame for walls and partitions (video)

Installation of a frame for partitions

Mounting the frame for drywall partition has its distinctive features, the main of which is the lack of fastenings on the walls: the base is wedged between the ceiling and the floor. Just like in the previous versions of the frame, the surface of the partition is formed by uw guide profiles, fixed on the walls, on the ceiling, on the floor.

On their basis, vertical bearing profiles cw are fixed with an interval of 400 mm. You can’t save on profile options: if you install racks with an arbitrary step, the partition will be unstable and short-lived.

If a doorway is planned in the partition, its installation should be under special control. In profiles that are fixed around the perimeter of the opening, insert wooden beam. It will help to securely fix and hold the door of any size.

Building a frame for a niche or other three-dimensional structure

Mounting the frame for an arch or niche - relatively hard work requiring experience and imagination. The volumetric frame is mounted according to the box principle.

From the following video you will learn how to make a drywall niche rack:

Subtleties to consider:

• All angles(including indirect ones) are assembled from twisted guide profiles. They can be trimmed for rounding. The corner profile is wedged with jumpers between two adjacent walls.
• slots two vertically arranged ud guides are formed, connected to each other by jumpers that limit the opening horizontally. If done differently, the frame will not be stable.
• Mounting the frame for shelves: the base of the ud-profile is installed around the perimeter, then it is reinforced with load-bearing profiles.

Niches and alcoves can be originally illuminated by hiding pipes, wiring or ventilation under drywall sheets.

When assembling a three-dimensional frame for drywall, you have to combine different ways that are described in the article. One fragment can be assembled according to the same principle as the installation of the ceiling, the other - as a partition, the third - according to the principle of wall cladding, and the fourth can be generally combined. There are no uniform standards here - including engineering ingenuity, it is important to consider that any frame, first of all, must be rigid and stable in order to freely withstand the expected load and please the eye with an original interior.

• If the repair includes finishing the walls and ceiling, first the frame must be mounted on the ceiling. Ideal right angles on the ceiling are not common, if you start installing profiles from the walls, it will be difficult to fit drywall sheets.
• When marking the surface to set the profile, the reference point is the lowest angle or elevation of the base ceiling. In the presence of windows, the marking of the walls begins with these sections, since the slopes require special attention.
• If suspensions are not enough, they are easy to make yourself. To do this, you can take a piece of ordinary PP profile. After specifying the length of the suspension with scissors for metal, a part of the profile of the desired length is cut off.
• If the repair involves wall insulation, the distance between the wall and drywall should take into account the thickness of the insulation.
• When planning the installation of a chandelier, heavy paintings, brackets for some devices, even at the stage of mounting the profile, the frame in these areas is reinforced.
• All communications in the house are laid only when the assembly of the frame from the profile is completed. Wire reserve at electrical work- 10-15 cm from the new ceiling. When installing spotlights carefully plan the laying of metal elements.
• From a drywall profile, you can make a frame for a greenhouse, and the cost of such a design will be several times cheaper than analogues without a choice between price and quality.

If you understand the principle of installation metal profile and prepare to start the simplest design under drywall sheets for a wall, then in the future you can take on more complex projects in the form of a multi-level ceiling, arched openings, decorative niches.