Installation of drywall sheets on the walls. We do the installation with our own hands

Perfectly smooth wall surfaces without cracks and flaws in modern houses are quite rare, so the question of how to align them for the majority remains relevant. The best solution to the issue may be wall cladding with GVL or GKL sheets using a frame.

Its undoubted advantage is that such a design will be durable (there will definitely not be any collapsed or cracked plaster, which was previously applied in several layers). The main thing at the same time is to first figure out how to properly mount drywall with your own hands so that the result fully meets all expectations.

Mounting technology

At its core, the whole procedure comes down to the construction of a wooden or metal frame and fixing drywall sheets on it. The structure is mounted on plastered walls at some distance from their surface, which allows you to completely hide all the bumps, cracks and other defects.

Wood or metal. What to choose

Until recently, almost all drywall constructions mounted on wooden frames. But this happened only because this material was much more accessible and cheaper.

At the same time, the majority had the opportunity to see in practice how unpredictably a tree can behave with changing room humidity. As for the galvanized steel profile, this case the price of materials is fully justified by the quality, reliability and service life of the future design.

Necessary materials and tools

1. Materials:
   • drywall sheets,
   • straight and corner metal profiles or wooden slats,
   • direct suspensions 75 mm or 125 mm (if the irregularities on the wall are more than 40 mm, you should choose the second option),
   • crabs.
2. Tools:
   • screwdriver, drill,
   • building level,
   • fasteners (dowel-nails, self-tapping screws),
   • scissors with which it will be possible to cut the profile,
   • roulette,
   • screwdriver,
   • cutter for working with drywall sheets.

The specific number and dimensions of components largely depend on the condition of the surfaces, their area, and the structure of the building.

In the case of metal profile elements, they can be:

• guides (PN),
• finishing (software),
• rack (PS).

Their length can be 2.5-6 m, and the thickness of the steel is 0.5-0.7 mm. When choosing a profile type, you should pay attention to the fact that the software has an L-shape, therefore it is used only when a small load of up to 25 kg / m 2 of area is assumed (PN and PS are produced in the form of a channel in cross section).

Frame installation

markup

1. Using a plumb line or level, vertical lines are drawn on the left and right walls so that the profile can be placed almost tightly between it and the adjacent wall in the direction deep into the room.
2. Next, a line is drawn along the ceiling between the upper points of the drawn lines. The same operation is performed on the floor (in this case, you can use a coloring cord if you have an assistant).
3. In the same way, all the walls in the room are marked.

Profile mounting

Note!
Prior to installation, it is advisable to glue special rubber strips on the profile - “soles”, which will become an effective seal for the entire structure.

Do-it-yourself installation of the profile is quite simple: you only need to attach the profile according to the drawn lines, while drilling holes of the required diameter in the floor and ceiling (they are initially available in the profile).

Frame installation

Fasteners for vertical elements in PN are brackets or self-tapping screws, already pre-fixed on the floor and ceiling. The PS is fixed to the wall at a distance of 0.5 to 1 m. The choice of the optimal distance depends on the desired reliability of the entire structure. The thematic video in this article will help you not to make mistakes at this stage.

If necessary, a noise absorber and insulation are placed between the frame and the wall, which can be foam or mineral wool. Thus, plasterboard sheathing will serve not only to level the surface, but also to create more comfortable conditions life in this space.

Communication wiring

If necessary, drywall can serve as an excellent disguise for electrical wiring, telephone lines, ventilation systems and other communications. It is highly desirable to carry out all work in this area in advance, later it will be much more difficult to do this.

Related articles:

Installation of drywall construction

Training

One of the most important and at the same time long-awaited moments is the beginning of the installation of drywall. To perform work, it is best to use a screwdriver, with which all operations will be performed many times faster, easier and more efficiently.

Wall cladding in this case is primarily its alignment. This means that the fixation of the sheets must be sufficiently tight, and all dimensions are strictly observed. Before installing drywall, it is important to pay serious attention to the edges of the sheets: they must be perfectly even.

To solve this problem, the edges of the sheets are trimmed with a planer or jigsaw. In places where vertical sheets are joined, it is advisable to chamfer at an angle of 45 ˚ (in this case, after filling, all joints will become invisible).

Advice!
In order to get a perfectly flat surface and not bend the sheets, it is necessary to make holes in advance for the subsequent installation of electrical equipment (lamps, sockets, switches, etc.).

Drywall installation

After all the sheets are prepared for installation, you can proceed directly to the installation. All sheets are fixed with screws, which are fastened 20-25 cm apart. At the door or window, the profile is placed along the edge of the opening, so it will not be difficult to securely attach the sheet in such places.

In terms of time, the whole process can take a different amount of time, depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, how many people are involved and at what pace the work is going on. Usually, only fastening the first sheet can cause difficulty, then everything becomes much easier and faster (especially if there is quality tool with replaceable battery).

Provided that the installation instructions for the frame were fully observed and all work was carried out with high quality, there should be no problems with installing the sheets (in order to be sure that everything is done correctly, it is better to additionally watch a video on this topic). The final step in the installation of drywall is the installation of lamps, sockets, switches.

Finishing

So, as a result, perfectly smooth walls are obtained ... covered with screw heads. Time finishing. Joints are always the main problem. In order to make them invisible and smooth, you can use either a reinforcing mesh or a special putty.

In the second case, as practice shows, the task is easier to perform, and the end result is no worse. When the issue with the joints is resolved, they begin to putty the attachment points, achieving a perfectly flat surface over the entire area.

It happens that the same construction material has several names. Gyprock is referred to this type of material. Gyprock also bears the more common name drywall or plasterboard. Often, it is used as a heater. Basically, they finish the walls. In addition to wall decoration, it has become popular to use drywall for ceiling decoration. This article will help you to mount a drywall ceiling yourself.

How to make a drywall ceiling

Finishing the ceiling with drywall, of course, should begin with the choice of materials and tools. In addition, a plan for finishing and installing a plasterboard ceiling should be well thought out.

It is worth considering, what tools are needed for finishing and installing a gypsum ceiling? In order to make a plasterboard ceiling, you will need whole list tools.

List of materials and tools for finishing and installing a gypsum ceiling

So, before starting construction work, you should stock up on the following materials. Firstly, to finish the plasterboard ceiling, you will need, in fact, the drywall itself. You must purchase drywall sheets of the desired length and width. You can find out these parameters by measuring all sides of the ceiling. It is very important to do this accurately, without the slightest error. Secondly, you will need suspensions. Hangers are called building material, with which plasterboard sheets are attached to metal profiles. Next are the metal profiles themselves. They are also called metal guides. They are needed in order to make the frame of the future ceiling out of them, and as a result, it is on this structure that ready-made, sized drywall sheets will be fixed. In addition to the basic materials, you will also need materials for fasteners. Everything will be fastened with dowels and screws. In no case, dowels should not be plastic. Buy only metal dowels. The whole structure will be heavy, so plastic dowels simply cannot withstand it. There will be a lot of pressure on them. Of the tools you will need a puncher and a drill. With the help of them you can fix the drywall sheets themselves and metal guides. And you will also need a tape measure, a pencil, a level ruler.

Advantages of a plasterboard ceiling

The most popular single-level plasterboard ceiling. This type of ceiling does not take up a lot of space. If you have uneven ceiling, then a gypsum ceiling is just for you. With the help of such a ceiling, you can easily hide all the irregularities: pits, bulges and other flaws. Plasterboard ceiling is easy to install. You can even install it yourself with my own hands. It also saves you money. Having a plasterboard ceiling, you have a large number of possibilities in terms of ceiling design. It can be embedded all kinds of lamps. Gyprock ceiling will give free rein to your imagination. You can turn your ceiling into a unique work of art. The key is to get creative.

How to build a plasterboard ceiling. Ceiling installation scheme

Such structures have the advantage that even if you have a very damp room, this does not interfere with the installation of a gypsum ceiling. Do not worry that because of this all your efforts will go down the drain. No. Gyprock has the ability to take in excess moisture from the air of the room, while not changing its own structure, without spoiling or collapsing. And with a lack of moisture in the room, it can give it away. Here is such a "magic" material - drywall.

From drywall, you can build not only a single-level, but also two-level ceiling. If necessary, the ceiling sheets can be given the desired shape by gently wetting and bending. The fact is that you need to approach this slowly, doing everything with extreme caution. If you carelessly start working with drywall sheets, then you will simply ruin the sheet, because it will not work to return them to their previous shape. Due to its plasticity, drywall is very popular among building materials.

Preparation for construction work on the installation of the ceiling

Before starting installation, it is necessary to clear all the corners of the interfaces of all four walls and the base base. Especially, this should be done if the corners are rounded. The angle between the ceiling and the wall must be strictly straight (90 degrees). If you do not follow this rule, then you will not be able to fix the structure on the ceiling.

Drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling with a metal frame. It must be mounted so that its height does not exceed 2.5 cm. In the construction of a metal frame, certain nuances cannot be dispensed with. In order for the structure to hold firmly and serve you for a long time, the metal guides must be fastened so that later it is possible to fix the drywall sheets into the concrete itself through the profile.

In order to properly lay drywall sheets, installation must begin not where you want, but strictly from any wall. The subsequent sheet will fit into checkerboard pattern. The width of the plates may not be enough to cover the entire ceiling in whole pieces. Then you have to cut the drywall sheets and make a fit.

The height of the structure of the ceiling itself, given the thickness of the drywall sheets, should be approximately 10 cm. This will allow you to “hide” all the wires from the lighting into it.

Completion of the installation of the plasterboard ceiling

After mounting the frame, it is the turn of laying drywall sheets and their fasteners. They are fixed with self-tapping screws and metal dowels.

Plasterboard sheets should be fastened at a distance not exceeding 40 -50 cm. The main thing is to try to get into metal profiles. Before carrying out work on fixing drywall sheets, they should be processed. As a rule, they are primed with a special compound. This is necessary in order to give the drywall sheets strength and additional moisture resistance.

After you have finished attaching the drywall sheets to the ceiling, you must putty them.

Finishing

After the ceiling has been completely erected by you, it requires a final, finishing finish. At the end, the ceiling must be covered with either special plaster or water-based paint. Let the surface dry. Do-it-yourself gypsum ceiling is ready.

If you responsibly approached this work and performed all the above actions correctly, taking into account all the subtleties, with the utmost care, then the ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard (gypsum board, plasterboard) will serve you and your home for many years. It will not change shape (deform), will keep warm, take away excess or give the missing moisture to the room, maintain warmth and comfort in your home. By mounting the ceiling with your own hands, you saved a large amount financial resources, because in our time, a qualified builder is a highly paid position, and it makes no sense to invite workers "from the street". Having made a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you put your whole soul into it. That is why it can create a warm, homely atmosphere in the house.

Most people who have had to deal with construction or repair work, know how versatile the material is drywall.

A sheet of drywall consists of gypsum and two sheets of cardboard.

Its appearance has greatly simplified many stages of work, allowing them to be carried out not only by professionals. Moreover, the drywall installation technology has significantly increased the quality of the work.

Drywall is very easy to install. If you have already dealt with finishing works that use traditional decorative materials, you can be sure that drywall will be the easiest building material. Drywall installation technology is quite simple. After reviewing our recommendations, you will better learn about the basic methods of processing and installing this material.

Calculation of the required amount of drywall

First, determine how much drywall and profile will be needed to finish the ceiling or wall. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the presence of door and window openings(they must be subtracted). Add about 10% to the resulting figure to buy drywall with a small reserve. The profile for the frame is calculated taking into account the number of fastening strips (joints).

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Materials used in the work

The main material, of course, is gypsum plasterboard (GKL). The size and thickness of the sheet are unified and make up;

• 1200x2500 mm - dimensions;
• 9.5; 12.5 mm - thickness.

There is a moisture-resistant sheet (GKL-V) for finishing wet rooms and a fire-resistant sheet (GKL-O) for finishing fire hazardous ones.

If the GKL is mounted on a frame, then a special metal profile is used. It has the shape of the letter U and holes for fasteners. This profile serves as the basis for fastening the ceiling and rack profile. With the help of a rack profile, sheets are attached to the walls, and a ceiling profile, respectively, to the ceiling.
The profile can be attached to walls or floor slabs using hangers, which are themselves attached to the building structure, and the profile is clasped and held with special locks. If you want to create a false ceiling, if the floor slabs are located very high, wire hangers are used. The length of this four-millimeter wire determines the distance of the suspended ceiling from the floor slabs.

Fastening hangers and guide profile to building structures performed using dowel-nails or long (up to 16 mm) self-tapping screws. GKL itself is attached to the frame also with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads.

For finishing a dwelling, it is better to use special nails for installing drywall sheets. The distance between the attachment points depends on the thickness of the sheet and is usually about 200 mm.

For finishing office space Self-tapping screws or screws should be used instead of nails.

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Tool to get the job done

For high-quality installation of the frame and drywall boards appropriate tools are required.

Some of them, of course, are interchangeable and are used not only by professional workers, but there are tools that must be in the arsenal of a person who uses drywall for finishing all the time.

The universal tool includes:

1. Perforator.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Pliers.
4. Ticks.
5. Level.
6. Rasp.
7. Cutter.
8. Cord.
9. Metal scissors.
10. Roulette.
11. A hammer.
12. Square.
13. Hacksaw.
14. spatula.
15. Grater.

A more professional set includes: a cutter, a needle roller, an edge planer, crowns, a scraper profile (special pliers), a mounting support, a handle for carrying GKL.

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Safety

When performing work on the installation of drywall, do not forget about such things as compliance with safety regulations. It is imperative to use a respirator and goggles (gypsum dust adversely affects the mucous membrane of the eye and Airways). For cutting drywall, a special sharpened knife should be used. A poorly sharpened tool is more traumatic and, in addition, often leads to damage to the drywall sheet.

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cutting drywall

How to cut drywall? The technology is quite simple. It is desirable to cut sheets of drywall as little as possible. To do this, carefully mark out and try to cut so that the edge of the drywall is located in the place of the jamb or ledge in the wall. Having made an incision along the marked line, a light blow can break the sheet. The back of the paper will not tear, so it will need to be cut.

A slightly different method is used if it is necessary to cut a sheet with corners inside. In this case, a knife designed for processing drywall is used.

To cut a hole in drywall, you need to draw its contours. If you are making a hole for a lamp, determine the center of the future hole and draw a circle of the desired diameter. Then cut out the resulting figure with a simple hacksaw.

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Using drywall to level walls

The clearest example of the benefits of drywall is its use as a wall finish instead of plastering. If plastering works could only be done by a specialist and for quite big pay, then lining the wall with drywall is within the power of an ordinary person who has the skills to use building tools and materials. In addition, in the process of such work, a lot of debris and dirt are not formed, and therefore it is not necessary to spend a lot of time and effort on cleaning.

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Implementation of slopes

Drywall is great for arranging window slopes, which in the end turn out to be perfectly even.

Drywall slopes can be made in two ways. The first is that the parts are attached to the frame or directly by gluing to the base. For such small areas better fit gluing plates on slopes.

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Gluing plasterboard slopes

The easiest option for arranging slopes. Details of the desired size are cut out of the drywall sheet, but before gluing them, it is necessary to prepare the base. For this purpose, if necessary, the old lagging layer of plaster, paint or whitewash is removed, and the surface is leveled. In the future, this will ensure a secure fit. plasterboard slopes with a base. Glue can be purchased at any hardware store on the recommendation of a sales assistant. It is not necessary to cover the reverse side of the slope with a layer of glue, it is enough to apply it with separate dots every 10 cm.

To firmly attach the horizontal slopes, they are pressed with spacers for 1-2 hours.

As an example of using a profile or rail frame for fixing drywall, consider the following technology.

We will look at how to install drywall with your own hands on the walls. Specifically, we will analyze how to mark and correctly place drywall sheets on the wall, how to correctly install the profile under the drywall and how to fix the drywall to the profile. We will also give an example of the consumption of drywall on a wall of 3x4.5 meters.

Marking the location of drywall sheets

In this article, we will look at the most difficult situation mounting drywall on walls - when there is an opening (window) in the wall. The basic principles of installing drywall on a solid wall are the same as when installing on a wall with an opening.

Now consider the main points when marking the location of sheets on the wall.

1. Opening in the wall. The basic rule for the location of sheets on the wall is as follows: if the wall has a door and / or window opening, then the joints of the sheets should be at least 200-300 mm away from all corners of this opening. Otherwise, you will get a crack in the finished surface.

The red dotted line indicates how to divide the sheets it is forbidden!

The location of the sheets on the wall with an opening

That is, the layout of the sheets begins precisely from the openings. At the same time, it is desirable that a whole sheet starts from some corner of the wall: then there will be less trimming.

2. If a narrow band remains.

If the length of the wall is such that a narrow strip remains

It is also better to take into account that it is better not to leave a strip narrower than 100 mm: you can get rid of it by moving all the sheets from this strip so that the strip becomes at least 300-400 mm. 300-400 mm is the distance of the rack from the adjacent wall at which you can normally work with a screwdriver.

Way out:

By rearranging sheets 3 and 4 in places, and cutting sheet 1, everything falls into place

We cut sheet 1 so that sheet 4 becomes a little wider -300-400mm. And sheets 3 and 4 are interchanged in order to fulfill the first rule.

3. If the height of the sheet is less than the height of the wall, and you have to add another part in height, then the sheets must be placed apart. Simply put: if there is a horizontal joint, then it should not go into adjacent sheets. "Vrazbezhka" should be at least 0.4 m.

The location of the sheets if the height of the wall is more than three meters

Marking the location of profiles

Now that we have decided where and how the sheets will be located, we can accurately mark the location of the racks and other frame elements.

CD racks should be located in increments of 1200 mm, but not less than 600 mm. Most often, 600 mm is enough for wall cladding. Racks are profiles, which are called "strings" because of the C-shaped section.

CD Profile

The guide profiles for CD are UD due to the U shaped section. It is placed along the perimeter of the wall to be sewn.

UD profile

So, an example of the location of profiles for a wall with a window, if the height of the room is greater than the height of the drywall sheets.

The location of the frame elements for the wall

We place the racks under the vertical and horizontal joints of drywall (red). We also add 2 racks: 1 and 5 along the edge of the opening and a jumper above the window - 6. On sheets 2 and 3, two intermediate racks each (1 and 2 on sheet 2; 4 and 5 on sheet 3): from behind the window we shift the central under the edge of the opening (1 and 5), and so that the pitch of the racks is not more than 600 mm, we add one more (2 and 4) in the middle of these large spans. Along the perimeter of the wall and under the window, we install UD guides (blue).

Note: If the length of the sheet is greater than or equal to the height of the room, that is, the sheet closes the wall in height, then there is no need for horizontal jumpers.

It is also necessary to provide a support for fixing the UD of future adjacent planes: if you plan to sew up the wall next to it, or mount a drywall box, then put an additional rack under the GC along this line.

Additional CD will simplify the installation of the frame of the adjacent wall

When the UD is attached through drywall to the CD, it makes a strong, good angle. If you will sheathe the ceiling, then it is advisable to additionally make horizontal jumpers at the level of the future ceiling.

Fixing the perimeter of the frame on the floor, walls and ceiling

Plane marking

When we have decided on the location of the sheets and profiles on the wall, we need to mark the plane in which the drywall will be located. The minimum thickness of the entire structure on the profiles is 35 mm + 12 mm (GKL) = 47 mm. The maximum thickness that the U-shaped bracket (P-shka) allows us is 110 mm.

U - shaped bracket, or simply "P-shka"

In general, we need all the markings and stretched laces for profiles (not for the front surface of the Civil Code), since we will expose profiles. We beat off the line on the floor with the help of a dyeing cord so that all the profiles run vertically without touching the wall, and at the same time do not take up extra space in the room. You may have to lay mineral wool under the plasterboard, this should also be taken into account: then the distance from the existing wall to the plasterboard should be equal to the thickness mineral wool. Sometimes it is necessary to get a right angle between the walls: then you need to mark the adjacent walls on the floor, because at this stage it is much easier to control this. When everything is clear with the line on the floor, we draw vertical lines along adjacent walls using a rack level, or using a plumb line. And finally, we close the perimeter on the ceiling. To control the plane, you need to pull two diagonals with a cord. The laces at the intersection should touch, but not strain each other. Cut UD profiles to length. But not completely, but only the side walls, and bend the middle wall.

We cut the side shelves UD to bend 90 degrees

Bend the middle wall and you're done

To soundproof structural noise on the middle shelf of the UD, we glue an elastic tape on an adhesive basis - in German it is called dichtung. This simple technique will significantly reduce the rattle of the wall, improve the sound insulation of the room.

Glue the tape to the middle shelf UD

Now you can attach the UD profile. Depending on the material of the floor, walls and ceiling, we select fasteners. For durable concrete that does not crumble, a dowel will do quick installation(DBM) 6x40, for bricks with DBM 6x60 plaster, in a loose, not very strong surface, it is better to use DBM 8x60, 8x80. If you need to attach the UD to a tree, then we take wood screws. It is necessary to fix the UD at least every 400 mm.

Important! The flatness of the entire surface will depend on the evenness and verticality of the marking and fixing of the UD.

UD usually has Ø6 mm punched holes for fasteners, however, it happens that the hole went away with the waste, or the hole falls on a fragile section of the wall. Then it is better to outline the missing holes and drill them with a metal drill, placing a bar inside.

It happens that the base to which the UD is attached is uneven, and if fixed in a local "pit", then the profile can bend. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to put gaskets made of wood or plastic in such places.

We put linings under the UD where necessary

If the existing surface is broken, then in this place it is necessary to make cuts on the side walls of the profile. Then you have to, then cut the edge of the sheet, but the profile will not be bent and well fixed.

In the place of a sharp break in the surface, we cut UD

Now it remains to fix the UD under the window sill for the entire length of the window sill. We fasten the UD with self-tapping screws from the bottom of the window sill. It is desirable that the screws do not stick out of the window sill then up :). To fix the profile in plastic, a 9.5 mm flea screw is enough, no more than 15 mm.

Installation of CD rack profiles. Marking and fastening

The fastening of the profile for drywall occurs as follows - on the wall it is necessary to beat off the vertical lines of the CD location. We fix P-shki along these lines - every 500-600 mm. We retreat from the floor and from the ceiling by 500 mm, divide the remaining distance into equal parts.

Each U-frame must be fixed to one hole from each edge (choice: 1 or 2, and 4 or 5), the middle hole 3 can be omitted. In general, it is necessary for preliminary fixing, a long slot will allow you to move the bracket.

P-shka

Fasteners are selected, again, based on the base. For better sound insulation, you can glue a dichtung under the U-shku.

We fasten P-shki

When all the P-shki are fixed, we start the vertical CD racks into the UD profiles. Their length should be such that the profile goes into place without tension and does not hang out: 2-3 mm less than inner size between UD.

We start racks

When all the racks are in place, you need to firmly pull the cord horizontally between the extreme UDs. Now you can bend each bracket to the CD, and in order for the cord not to divert the racks, you need to put a nail or wire into the U-shku so that the racks are slightly bent towards the wall. If this is not done, then the wall will come out "pot-bellied".

We remove the profiles from the lace - with a carnation

Now we remove the limiter-nail from the extreme rack and fasten the rack to the P-shka. These self-tapping flea screws 9.5 mm long:

Self-tapping screw 9.5 mm

Important: None of the racks should take the lace.

We fasten first one screw on each side. It is convenient to turn the self-tapping screw into the hole that matches the groove on the profile. Then the profile will not move, and the screws will pop out.

We fasten the racks to the U-shka

We control that the stand is exactly in line with the lace, and does not divert the lace. Checking long rule so that the height of the rack is also even. Now it's too late to control the verticality: we make sure that we get a flat plane. After control, you can twist on the second flea, for reliability.

We bend the protruding parts of the P-shki

When all the screws are screwed, we bend the ends of the P-shki protruding beyond the plane.

Frame under and above the window

Now we make a jumper from the CD above the window. We make a T-shaped connection on both sides of the jumper. We set it on the horizon, remember that the lower edge of the jumper is a support for the slope. We fasten the jumper with fleas 9.5 mm.
We make a rack from the jumper to the ceiling. Below is a T-connection, at the top it just goes into the UD. We fasten 9.5 mm fleas.

Arrangement of connections in the frame

Node: jumper for post at the edge of the opening

If the post along the opening becomes so that it has no support, then add jumpers after 500-600 mm and fix the jumpers on the U-shki.

Top view: if the post at the edge of the opening is unsupported

When all the racks are screwed and set according to the markup, we twist the racks to the UD so that they do not move. When the sheet closes the racks, they will not be visible, and in order not to waste time calculating and remembering, we take out the lines for the location of the racks on the floor and ceiling.

We fix the racks and mark their location on the floor and ceiling

Fitting sheets to the required dimensions

It is desirable that the HA does not touch the ceiling and floor by 3-5 mm: this will improve sound insulation, and the HA will not absorb water in case of a small leak. If the floor and ceiling are horizontal, and the corner from which you start sheathing is vertical, i.e. there is a right angle, then it is enough to measure two sizes: the height of the sheet and the width. If the floor is not in the horizon, then first you need to cut this slope from the sheet. This is necessary so that all other edges of the sheets remain in a vertical position (more details: and).

Sheet size chart if the floor is not level

And then measure the height and width of the sheet.

Sheet dimensions if both floor and ceiling are not horizontal

If the geometry of the sheet is really ugly, when, for example, there are no right angles, then you need to check the diagonals. At the marked sheet, they should be the same as on the wall.

It should also be borne in mind that at the outer corner, for example, a slope, one of the sheets must be released to the thickness of a suitable edge.

One of the sheets on the outer corner must be released to the thickness of the other

And if these are both factory edges, then the outer putty corner will ideally fit in the recess of the edges, and will not protrude beyond the plane.

Optimum edge variant on the outer corner

Fixing drywall to the wall

For better sound insulation, a dichtung can also be glued to the surface of the frame under the GC. When soundproofing is approached comprehensively, the result is much better.

Comprehensive soundproofing measures

The sheets are attached to the profiles using TN-25 self-tapping screws for metal, 25 mm long.

Screw for fastening drywall sheets ТН-25

We fasten the sheets on each rack and around the perimeter in increments of 20-30 cm.

We fasten the sheets to the frame with a screwdriver or drill with a small number of revolutions

Each screw should sink into the paper by 1-2 mm. Screws must be turned perpendicular to the surface of the sheets. If the screw has gone deeper than 3 mm, then it does not hold well, and you need to step back 5 cm and tighten another one.

Exemplarily twisted screw

You need to carefully twist along the perimeter in UD: when the edge is not factory, but cut off, then if the screw is deepened too much, the edge of the sheet will break. This is not fatal, but it will have to be sealed with putty, and this has a bad effect on the strength of the sheet. If the sheet is cut out inaccurately, and the GK sheet hardly reaches the UD profile, then you can do the same as with the plinth: insert a CD into the UD profile and there is no need to tighten the screws to the very edge of the sheet (green).

An additional CD will help to properly fix the sheet, and the plinth in the future

If a screw head is found on the surface of the profiles, then the HA will not fit tightly. Then we take a bar, apply it in this place to the already exposed sheet, and with a precise blow of a hammer (without fanaticism?) we press the HA from the back side over the screw. In general, sheets are optimally measured, cut and screwed in sequence: this way we exclude unnecessary movements of sheets, and we can correct inaccuracies in measurements in a timely manner. So that the sheet can be conveniently set in height (raised by a few millimeters) during screwing, you can use such a bar: the harder you press it with your foot from one edge, the higher the sheet will rise.

The bar helps to set the sheet in height by a few millimeters

Frame for slopes

Now on our wall there are unwired slope surfaces. It looks neat when all slope planes are equally placed on the window (preferably about 5-10 mm). The narrowest point is the hinges on the sash, i.e. It is necessary to “dance” from this side. Then the rest of the slopes can be made according to this size.


Frame for slopes

If the width of the slope does not exceed 600 mm, then two racks are sufficient: one is a CD in the plane of the wall along the edge of the opening, and the second is a CD under the window itself. For rigidity, you can add a horizontal jumper between them. First, we fix the UD profile to the window sill and, in a plane with it, we fix the UD to the upper slope. These will be the guides. Insert a CD cut to size under the window. The easiest way is to fix it on remote bars (chop the bar to size): if the distance between the profile and the surface allows you to fix it with long fasteners through the profile into the wall, then it’s good. If the distance is about 100 mm (it happens in old houses), then the bar can be placed end-to-end: pull the bar with a screw through the profile, and fix the bar itself through the corner. Such attachment points should be every 500-600 mm. Can be mounted on ordinary P-shkah. But there are many difficulties here: it is difficult to work with a screwdriver due to the proximity of the slope, it is difficult to fix the second side of the CD, and the U-shaped bracket cannot ensure the rigidity of the frame "to - from" the window.

We fix drywall on the frame of the side slopes. Then, similarly to the side slopes, we sheathe the upper one: first the frame, then we fasten the sheet. Or you can act in reverse order: first the upper slope, and only then the two side slopes.

We sheathe slopes with drywall

Cut out the top edge.

1. We measure the width of the slope: from the window to the plane of the wall. For control: we check the width in two corners, it often happens that the window is not parallel to the plane of the wall.
2. We measure the length of the slope under the window.
3. Now we apply a 90 degree square to the corner and measure the difference B: how much the outer edge of the slope is larger than the inner one. Also in the second corner, the difference C.
4. We check: the sum of two "differences" B + C and the length of the inner edge of the slope A \u003d the length of the outer slope.
5. Let's mark the sheet. Cut and screw.

Slope Scheme

With side slopes, the situation is the same, only there is a right angle between the window and the window sill.

Approximate consumption of materials for wall cladding 2.5-3 meters high 4.5 m

The location of the sheets on the wall 4.5x2.5-3 m

1. UD 5-6 piecesx3 m;
2. Fasteners for UD 50 pcs;
3. CD 9 piecesx3 m;
4. P-shki 50 pcs;
5. Fasteners for U-shek 100 pcs;
6. Self-tapping screw 9.5 mm (flea) 150 pcs;
7. Drywall 3x1.2 m - 4 sheets + slopes depending on the depth;
8. Screws ТН 25 - 200 pcs;
9. Dichtung: on UD - 15 m + on P-shki 5 m + on CD 50-55 m. Total - 70-75 m 30 mm wide;
10. Mesh at the joints 10 m;
11. Fugenfüller 1-2 kg;
12. Putty corner;
13. Other little things that must be taken into account individually (acrylic sealant), etc.

Modern construction and repair are unthinkable without the use of gypsum boards in interior decoration. With the help of them, not only the alignment of walls and ceilings is carried out, but also the installation of partitions, cornices, niches and multi-level ceilings. This finishing material is very plastic and easy to use. It is easy to cut, even creating curved shapes.

Schematic of a plasterboard wall.

The use of drywall made repairs much cheaper and better. Self-installation of drywall on the wall requires certain knowledge and adherence to some simple rules.

Types and sizes of drywall boards

Drywall is a finishing material in the form of a rectangular slab consisting of two layers of multilayer paper and a gypsum mineral layer between them. The paper protects the gypsum from destruction, and also holds the internal stress of the material inside the layers, which allows the sheet to be used in finishing work. According to its purpose, drywall is divided into ordinary, moisture resistant and fire resistant.

Sheets have standard sizes: length 2.5 or 3 meters, width 1.2 meters, thickness 6mm, 9mm, 12.5mm. Sometimes you can find sheets with dimensions of 1200X600X12.5 mm. It should be understood that the installation of drywall on walls is allowed with a sheet thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner types of sheets are intended for other purposes. This is the manufacture of curved and curved surfaces.

The main technological methods of fixing drywall boards

There are several ways to securely fasten drywall sheets to walls:

Correct and incorrect fastening of the drywall sheet to the frame.

1. For glue. The base of the wall must be very strong and sufficiently primed, its surface is even without significant differences. The adhesive is applied to the wall and to the sheet to be glued, after which the surfaces are bonded by pressing. This method of arranging a plasterboard wall does not require a large number instruments and allows you to create good sound insulation from structural noise.
2. On a special metal profile. The sheets are fastened to a pre-mounted strong metal frame made of a special profile. The frame is rigidly attached to the walls to be finished. Installation of drywall on it is carried out using self-tapping screws of suitable size, which requires additional tools. This method does not provide good sound insulation.
3. On the wooden bars. Attached to the wall wooden bars of the same thickness, treated with a special composition that protects against mold and dampness. Sheets are attached to the bars with self-tapping screws or small nails. In this case, you need to be careful, as excessive exposure to the plate can damage its integrity. Soundproofing can be added to drywall walls made in this way.

With any of the methods, it is necessary to take into account in advance the features of the installation of electrical wiring and the location of electrical appliances in the room.

Rules for cutting drywall parts

Scheme of cutting drywall with a knife.

In order to cut drywall, you only need a paper knife, a ruler and a pencil. For grinding the edges of the cut, you can effectively use an auxiliary tool: a special planer, a grater with a sandpaper or a large file.

Before cutting off a part of the sheet, you need to mark it with a ruler and a pencil in size. Then make an incision in the paper layer with a knife on one side. After that, it is necessary to bend the drywall sheet at an angle of 90 degrees towards the notch and cut the paper with opposite side. The cut will be quite even. Now you need to remove the chamfer from it. To do this, paper layers are cut off on both sides of the sheet at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the cut. This is done to avoid tearing the paper. Now we remove the chamfer from the edge with a knife at an angle of 45 degrees. Irregularities are cleaned with an auxiliary tool.

The procedure for installing a plasterboard wall

Before you start installing drywall on the walls, you should perform some preparatory work. Need to produce pre-assembly wiring. To do this, we fix the wires on the walls in corrugated protective tubes and mark the exit points of sockets, switches and junction boxes to the surface. You should immediately pull the horizontal wires at the level of the junction boxes, and the vertical wires straight up from the switches and sockets. It is forbidden to place wires inside a metal profile, as self-tapping screws will be screwed into it.

Installation of a frame from a metal profile

Profiles for drywall.

Before installing the frame, the markings of the walls are made. To do this, you will need the following building tools:

1. Level liquid rack.
2. Roulette or ruler.
3. Any plumb.
4. Pencil.
5. Lace or rope.

With the help of them, the location of all elements of the future frame is measured and fixed on the wall. All corners must be straight, and the elements must be strictly vertical and horizontal. It is necessary that, before installing drywall on the walls, it is known where hanging furniture or other interior items will be attached. This will strengthen such places for future use. The marking of the vertical and horizontal elements of the frame is made taking into account the size of the foxes. In the future, this will make it more convenient to install drywall.

Then, strictly according to the markup, a frame made of a metal profile is installed. For its installation you will need the following tool:

1. Perforator.
2. Screwdriver.
3. A hammer.
4. Metal scissors.
5. Bulgarian.
6. Pliers.

The scheme of wall cladding with drywall on a metal frame.

The metal profile is cut into segments of the required length, which are interconnected using a T-shaped connection or using special cross-shaped "crabs". In this case, self-tapping screws are used. This structure is attached to the walls with the help of U-shaped construction hangers. Each of them must be firmly fixed with two screws to the wall. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the level of the surface on which the drywall sheets will be attached. To do this, the laces are pulled between the first and last vertical guide, which are set with the necessary clearance from the wall. All other guides should touch the laces, but not retract them. The frame for drywall must be stable and durable.

Fastening and processing drywall sheets

After the installation of the frame is completed and it is tested for strength, you can proceed to finish the wall with your own hands. Prepared drywall sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame guides strictly vertically. In this case, the sheets are raised from the floor by a few millimeters, which is necessary in order to avoid their further deformation during operation due to shrinkage.

All boxes for sockets and switches are mounted in sheets, and the wires are brought out. The resulting joints and corners are subject to mandatory processing. This will require the following additional tools:

1. Spatula of suitable width.
2. Mix bucket.
3. Grater for grouting.
4. Brush or roller.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the seams, and a construction mesh is glued onto it. Then the next layer of putty is applied over the mesh. On the entire surface of the walls, the seams are leveled with a spatula. Internal corners smeared with putty and leveled. External corners require more attention. A metal or plastic corner is glued on them, which protects the corner from cracks. plastic corner can also be glued on top of the wallpaper. When finishing, special attention should be paid to walls with window or door openings. Already at the marking stage, it is necessary to provide for all the nuances of fastening the frame guides.

The device of interior partitions

With your own hands, you can make not only drywall walls, but also partitions - for this, a frame is constructed from a metal profile, which is rigidly attached to the floor and ceiling.

The principle of its installation is similar to that described above. Then drywall is installed on this frame according to the same rules. Do-it-yourself installation of drywall on the walls should be carried out only on a reliable frame that has an impeccable fastening.

Thus, in order to make drywall walls with your own hands, you need to prepare everything necessary tools and get to work, following all the rules.

moyagostinaya.ru

Do-it-yourself installation and work with drywall lessons

Many of us are sure that drywall is a modern building material that came into use only at the end of the last century. Not! In fact similar material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, during this time, production technologies have changed, but this does not negate the following fact: everyone can master the basic points of dealing with drywall on their own.

Working with profiles

As a rule, today no one uses wooden bars for mounting the frame; instead, metal U-shaped profiles are used.
Work with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.

• Guide profiles for creating a frame, they are also often called PN or UW. They have a standard depth of 40 mm and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
• Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as the previous profiles, but are used for mounting suspended ceilings.
• Ceiling profiles(PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and jumpers. They are inserted into the guides and fixed to the ceiling with suspensions, crabs, anchor clamps.
• Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is required to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed in guides.

The main fasteners for the frame profile are self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and mounting pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling with anchors or dowel-nails.

Do not be afraid of a large set of parts used in the installation of drywall. This is far from complete list what professional builders use. In addition, do not forget that one-time work implies only the presence of direct suspensions, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.

Special attention it is worth giving tools for installing drywall on walls.
Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill with a 3-5 joule impact force. It is much easier to make a hole in concrete with a hammer drill than impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the perforator is perfect for mixing various putty and assembly mixes. To do this, you need a special nozzle-mixer.

Equally important is a cordless screwdriver with a set of special nozzles to screw screws with different types of hats.

In addition to power tools, it is also used hand tool:

• a hammer;
• metal scissors;
• screwdriver;
• stationery knife;
• markers;
• laser level or hydraulic level;
• drywall planer;
• pliers.

To attach one rack of a frame 2.5 m high to the wall, use direct suspensions in the amount of five pieces, that is, every 50 cm - 1 suspension.

Two anchors are used to secure each, in total 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high, you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.

How to work with drywall

Working with drywall is primarily the creation of a frame and its further sheathing. Typically, drywall constructions are used to create lighting, leveling walls, erecting partitions, arches and niches.

Do-it-yourself installation of drywall is as follows.

If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, this can be done very simply with your own hands. To do this, cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the plaster layer with a clerical knife, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after breaking.

How to seal sheet joints

After the installation is completed, it is necessary to seal the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws in drywall. When joining whole sheets, the edges should form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut off to ensure a triangular seam.
Use putty to fill the mounting seam. The junction is reinforced with a paint grid (sickle). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To reinforce the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.

If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, pierce a sheet of cardboard with a spiked roller and moisten it with plenty of water. After 10-15 minutes, the gypsum will get wet, and it will be possible to give it any shape without any problems. This technique is often used to create interior arches and curved suspended ceilings.

Now not a single repair in an apartment is complete without such a practical material as drywall. If you learn how to work with it correctly, then you will be able to create amazing structures for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.

remboo.ru

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls. How to do?

Make a redevelopment in the apartment, divide the space in a private house or just embody the original design decision- a drywall wall is a universal option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!

What you need to know about profiles and drywall?

The desired dimensions of the rooms will be somewhat different from those planned, because part of the area will be “eaten” new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).

Characteristics of profiles and their purpose

Before you buy materials and start marking rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences between the profiles. So, according to their purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mount (PS).

As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical racks are already inserted into it.

Profile marking depends on the characteristics:

• D - rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, designed to fix drywall on one side only;
• W - profiles for the formation of a full-fledged wall, sewn on both sides;
• C - rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
• U - guides with a rib height of 40 mm;
• 50, 75, 100 - the width of the profile, which must match the racks and rails.

For example, marking CW 100 means that this is a rack wall profile with dimensions of 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of the insulation / sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm, a standard insulation laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool) is suitable.

The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are produced in the same length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The thing is that it is highly recommended not to “build up” the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before buying racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.

Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics

Wall drywall is available with a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum allowable value. The load on the wall in this case cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. Such a sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:

• 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
• 18 mm thick - for loads up to 70 kg;
• double sheets - for large loads from 70 kg.

The dimensions of the sheets are standard - the width is 120 cm, and the height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant GKL is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Also, fire-resistant sheets are becoming more and more popular - they do not flare up, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a source of fire.

Based on these data, it is possible to determine the dimensions of the future room - at least 8.75 cm must be retreated from the initial markup (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay in the walls water pipes or large diameter corrugated cables, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the chosen distance between them.

Plasterboard wall installation

The installation of walls begins with the initial marking of the area and the alignment of the corners.

Often perfect smooth walls, especially in houses of old buildings, no, therefore, when dividing a room, you need to bind not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.

If all surfaces are sheathed with drywall, before doing new wall, first, with the help of profiles and GKL, the existing ones are aligned as much as possible. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will greatly simplify in the future. Finishing work.

Profile mounting

Installing profiles is quite simple, but requires a lot of precision. To align the racks, it is advisable to purchase laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to the usual plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:

Important nuances of drywall installation

The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but are well embedded in the sheet. To improve the quality of seaming, all cut edges are chamfered from the upper side (for factory edges, this is not necessary, it is already there).

Sheets are attached in a checkerboard pattern with an offset. It is very important to avoid cruciform seams - they almost always crack. Self-tapping screws fixing adjacent sheets also cannot be placed on the same line.

On the opposite side of the wall, the edges of the sheets should not fall on the same racks on which the edges of the plasterboard are already fixed.

The technique of mounting a drywall wall is shown in detail in the video:

svoimirukami.lesstroy.net

Do-it-yourself installation of drywall on walls: video, instructions

Installation of drywall on walls, carried out using frame or frameless technology, allows you to level the surface to an ideal state, while at the same time insulating it with a layer of insulating material.

Working with sheets of drywall is simple and does not require special experience, as evidenced by the proposed video plot.

The finished plane of the walls is easily ennobled through the use of ceramic tiles, simple painting or wallpapering.

From moisture-resistant and ordinary drywall to make a structure? Choose the type of material that will fully correspond to the purpose of the room.

When planning to radically change the design of bedrooms, a living room or a hallway, they acquire ordinary drywall sheets.

Their use makes it possible not only to level the walls, but also to organize curly elements for them, arrange original niches and illuminated shelves.

If the repair is carried out in the bathroom, in the kitchen or in another room with constantly high humidity, moisture-resistant wall or ceiling sheets are purchased.

Additional processing of products with a water-repellent primer allows you to increase the degree of vapor impermeability of the walls with your own hands.

We suggest watching a video on this topic.

Lathing made of wood or profile - which is better?

In order for the drywall to fit perfectly on the walls during work and hide all defects, as shown in our video material, it is necessary to pay attention to one more important fact - mounting the frame.

The construction technology of such a design is reduced to marking the plane of the walls and the subsequent installation of wooden or metal products.

Previously, plasterboard wall cladding was carried out on a wooden frame, the affordable cost of wooden beams spoke for itself.

But since the tree behaves unpredictably, in the event of a change in humidity in the room, over time, preference was given to a galvanized profile during the installation of the batten for sheathing.

But it makes sense to build wooden structure with your own hands for the installation of drywall, if there are dry bars in stock.

You should not rely on wood that is on sale, by and large, such wood is either freshly sawn or has a high degree of moisture.

The frame, mounted from such materials, is deformed over time due to the drying of the wood.

In any case, further information and suggested videos will be useful to you.

Here, methods for installing a frame, both from a wooden bar and from a metal profile, will be considered in detail, followed by laying insulation and installing drywall.

Making a crate from a wooden beam

The timber frame can be mounted on both wooden and concrete walls. In the first case, the elements are fixed using nails or self-tapping screws, in the second - using dowels.

Before starting work, they prepare the base with their own hands. The walls of the house are treated with an antiseptic primer.

Having a clean and well-dried surface in front of them, they proceed to the installation of the crate from the timber.

The work will involve:

• fasteners;
• hacksaw or a circular saw;
• building level;
• roulette;
• wooden bars.

Rules for installing a wooden crate:

• Arrangement technology wooden frame under drywall starts with markings working area and installation of strapping;
• Using a tape measure, along the ceiling, along the floor, along the walls and at the corners of the walls with an indent of 200 mm, mark the area for fixing the guide rails;
• Using a regular hacksaw, they are adjusted to fit right size wooden bars, then fasten them with self-tapping screws in the marked places;
• The correct location of the vertical guide elements is controlled using a level;
• First of all, the bars are fixed on the ceiling, then they proceed to the arrangement of the strapping below. Convinced of correct location bars, fix vertical guides on the walls;
• The main load of the structure will fall on the vertical elements of the crate, so it is very important to secure them with high quality;
• The distance between successive uprights must not exceed 600 mm. They can be fastened with screws or a metal corner.

If there are openings in the wall between the vertical posts, do the installation of the transverse bars with your own hands.

In the presence of electrical wiring, the wires are placed in a corrugated protective sheath.

Mounting the frame of the crate from a metal profile

The installation of the frame of the crate from a metal profile for drywall begins, as in the first case, with the marking of the working plane. First, the walls are checked with the help of a building level for a height difference.

The existing deviations are fixed and eliminated with their own hands during the marking work. You can get acquainted with the technology of arranging a metal frame in more detail in the proposed video.

Technology for mounting a metal profile on walls:

• The galvanized guide profile is mounted along the applied marking lines. For each wall, you will need two profiles: one is mounted on the wall under the ceiling with an indent of 800-100 mm, the second is on the floor along the wall;
• If necessary, align the difference horizontally, a rigid element with the desired thickness is placed under the profile bar;
• The guide profile under the ceiling is placed with the groove down. A profile fixed on the floor, with a groove up, for the possibility of installing rack elements in them;
• Do-it-yourself guide vertical elements of the metal strapping are fixed at the corners to the wall with an indent of 400 mm; dowels or self-tapping screws are used in the work;
• For the subsequent installation of the rack profile, vertical lines are drawn along the wall, suspensions are mounted along them in increments of 400-500 mm, due to which the future design will receive its rigidity;
• The edges of the rack profile are inserted into the grooves of the guide elements from above and below, everything is fixed with self-tapping screws;
• At the same time, it is fastened to the suspensions. The strict verticality of the installation of rack profiles is controlled by the level.

Thermal insulation of walls and installation of drywall on the crate

Regardless of the material from which the sheathing was made, before starting the installation of drywall sheets, insulation and soundproofing work is carried out.