Installation of a half-hip roof. Half-hip roof: how to install the rafter system

For areas where windy weather is not uncommon, a half-hip roof is ideal, because the rafter system of this design is characterized by greater reliability and resistance to weathering. A half-hip roof is similar to a pitched roof, but has small overhangs at the ends. This design makes it more resistant to winds and precipitation. The roof usually has a very attractive appearance due to the use of additional elements.

Advantages and disadvantages

Floor design hip roof, unlike the hip one, has a much more intricate design. Trapezes turned into polygons, and hips were modified.

Complex roof structure

This design is a symbiosis of gable and hip roofs. The slopes of a hip roof are quadrangles, trapezoids and two triangles, and the slopes of a half-hip roof form broken line. A building with such a roof is not only decorative, but also very justified. It has a number of undeniable advantages. Thanks to the height of this structure, it is possible to arrange an additional room in the attic floor. For increase usable area room, the upper plane of the slope is made sloping and long, and the lower plane is almost vertical.

Structural elements of a half-hip roof:

• rafter system;
• Mauerlat;
• heat, steam and waterproofing system;
• roofing covering.

Construction of the rafter system

In addition to the main elements, the roof structure includes a lot of additional ones: crossbars, racks, stops. All this requires a significant consumption of wood and makes it difficult to install the frame of the rafter system. But it is precisely because of this unique structure that the roof has strength and durability..

The rafter system of a half-hip roof is quite complex: a significant number of ribs, intermediate rafters, stops, valleys, struts, trusses, and trusses. Such a device requires a significant waste of materials. Therefore, before installation, you should make calculations, make drawings, and pay attention to controlling the quality of the purchased material. It is important that the wood has no cracks or knots and is dry.

Varieties of design

There are two options for half-hip roofs: two- and four-slope.

Based on the type of roof hips, they are divided into:

1. Dutch.
2. Danish.

The names appeared due to the popularity of the first type of roofing in Holland, and the second in Denmark.

Dutch half hip roof

The gable half-hip roof of the Dutch variety is designed as follows: under the attic ceiling there is an attic space in which small windows located on the gables are made for lighting and ventilation. The scheme of this option is more convenient, since the attic ceiling has bevels only on two sides, and in the Danish version of the roof - on four.

Trapezoidal hip slope

Danish half hip roof

The scheme of a hipped semi-hipped roof is a combination of elements of a gable and hip roof. As with a gable roof, the large attic space can be used to furnish a living room.

This type of roofing is even more labor-intensive and complex than the first option.. However, if everything is done strictly according to calculations and you select suitable materials, then such a roof will be much more beautiful than the Dutch one. The design will serve for a very long time, providing reliable protection building.

Triangular cropped hip

Calculation of roof area

To decide on required quantity material for roofing, you should know its surface area.

The half-hip roof has a complex decorative shape, but despite this, calculating its area will not be difficult.

This can be done by dividing the roof plan into separate geometric figures. It is necessary to calculate the area of ​​each figure separately, using formulas known to everyone from the school geometry course, and then add the results.

Installation

House with half hip roof

The construction of the roof is carried out in several stages:

1. Wood processing.
2. Installation of the Mauerlat.
3. Installation of rafters.
4. The final stage.

Wood protective coating

During the production process, the wood is treated with antiseptics and fire retardants according to the original method with pre-heating. Similar wood processing manipulations can be performed at home.

Fireproof and antifungal coating of the rafter system is an invariable rule in roofing work.

The surface of the beams is carefully treated with a brush or sponge antiseptic. The product is capable of forming protective layer, which lasts up to 2-8 years.

Mauerlat

The assembly of the roofing system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat. In some cases around the perimeter load-bearing walls They make a concrete screed into which the reinforcing pins are immersed; the Mauerlat beam will subsequently be attached to them with further fixation of their ends using nuts and washers.

The beam is fixed around the perimeter of the walls

In order not to complicate the subsequent joining of the rafters with the mauerlat, the studs should be placed in the correct order. Before laying the beams, the concrete screed should be covered with two layers of roofing material.

Installation of rafters

After the Mauerlat is installed, the ridge and the racks under it are strengthened. The racks must be strictly vertical, so a plumb line should be used.

Mounting the ridge frame

The ends of the ridge are connected to the corners of the house through diagonal rafters. Diagonal rafters are longer than ordinary rafters and must have large area cross section.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Then, in increments of 60-120 cm, ordinary rafters are installed. Installation of external rafters is done with emphasis on the slopes. It is necessary that the load is evenly distributed along the diagonal rafters. Therefore, when calculating the load on the structure, it should be taken into account that the support points on the surface of the slanted rafters must be different.

Installation of ordinary rafters

Then reinforcement is made with additional struts supported by floors, beams or support posts. Sloping rafters should be strengthened using a truss truss.

To increase the reliability of the roof, the rafters should be additionally screwed to the crutches hammered into the wall.

Basic structure roof is ready

Should not be used between the ridge and under the ridge. polyurethane foam to ensure free air circulation. This is important for the safety of wooden structures.

The final stage of installation

Roofing pie

Finally installation work do:

• lathing;
• vapor barrier using a film covered with foil;
• waterproofing using roofing felt;
• insulation with mineral wool;
• laying the roofing material.

Coating materials

Often, corrugated sheeting or metal tiles are used to cover a half-hip roof. These materials facilitate installation and repair of the coating, are lightweight and have an affordable price. Meanwhile, they are quite strong and durable, and also have quite decorative look. For a Dutch roof, a metal profile will cost less than for a Danish one. The material has fewer cuts and little waste. And the use of tiles in both cases will entail the same costs.

Any type of half-hip roof has both its pros and cons. You can only decide based on personal preferences. In order to install the structure without any problems, you should accurate calculations, know the installation rules, features of the materials used. The combination of all these factors determines how long and effectively the roof will serve.

The half-hip roof (see photo) is something between gable roof and hip. The pediment here has the shape of a trapezoid. This type of roof is also sometimes called Dutch.

Let's look at an example of this rafter system. In this article and all subsequent ones devoted to various rafter systems, I will no longer focus on calculating the cross-section of rafters. I will say that the longest rafter is calculated (in in this case any rafter of the slope), and the rest are made of the same section. An article on calculations of rafters and floor beams

So, we have a box house with trapezoid-shaped gables.

STEP 1: We install. We also place a mauerlat on the upper edge of the pediments (see Fig. 1):

Picture 1

STEP 2: We install the ridge beam and rafters. Here we do everything the same way as described in the article (see Fig. 2 - Fig. 3):

Figure 2

Figure 3

These and subsequent drawings do not show floor beams.

You are free to choose the distance from the outer rafter (from the edge of the ridge beam) to the gable. We always took it approximately equal to half length of the upper edge of the pediment (see Fig. 4):

Figure 4

STEP 3: We manufacture and install corner rafters. All the actions described below are performed so that the installed corner rafter is the line of intersection of the plane of the slope and the plane of the half-hip.

To begin, we take a piece of board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm and place it on the edge of the pediment mauerlat. Let's hold it in place for a while with a couple of screws. A cutting height of 150 mm is required for a future corner rafter with a section of 50x200 mm.

Then we need to select any board that is even in length (the smoother the better) and use it to make a mark on our trim - a blue line (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

This flat board placed on 3-4 rafters with one end and touches the trim with the other. The most important thing is that it is strictly parallel to the ridge. We control this using a tape measure. When we achieve parallelism, draw a mark (blue vertical line). After this, we shorten the trim along this line (cut).

Figure 6

We mark the upper cut of the corner rafter along the side plane of the slope rafters (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

We measure the distance on the upper cut shown in Fig. 8 (we got 26 cm):

Figure 8

Now we set this size aside from the gable mauerlat upwards at four points, marking the bottom cut of the corner rafter (see Fig. 9):

Figure 9

Having sawed off the workpiece at the marked points, we get a corner rafter (see Fig. 10):

Figure 10

We remove a piece of board from the mauerlat, install a corner rafter and secure it. We nail the upper end, the lower end can be secured with metal corners (see Fig. 11):

Figure 11

We make the three remaining corner rafters in the same sequence.

STEP 4: We install the half-hip rafters.

Let's start from the central one. First of all, we measure the size shown in Fig. 12 on the corner rafter:

Figure 12

In our example it is 12 cm. We put it on the ridge according to Fig. 13. From the resulting point we stretch the lace to the middle of the pediment mauerlat.

Figure 13

Using a small tool, we measure the angle “β” between the lace and the ridge beam post. This will be the angle of the upper cut of the half-hip rafters (see Fig. 14):

Figure 14

We also measure the angle “φ” (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

We will make the half-hip rafters from 50x150 mm boards. This section is quite sufficient.

So, we take a board of suitable length and saw one end of it, first at an angle “β”, then sharpen it at an angle “φ”. Next, we place the resulting workpiece on the Mauerlat, aligning its bottom with the stretched cord (see Fig. 16):

Figure 12.16

At the top we measure the distance shown in Fig. 17:

Figure 17

We got it equal to 6 cm. Now using this value we mark the lower edge of the rafters of the half-hip (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

In addition to the bottom cut, we immediately noted the width of the cornice (50 cm). Thus, we have a middle half-hip rafter.

On the half-hip we will have four more sprigs (two on the right, two on the left). We are not securing our middle rafter yet, but using it as a template. The lower cuts are the same for all riggers, the upper cut is made first at an angle “β”, then “φ/2” in the desired direction. I'm sure you can easily determine their length from the spot.

We install and secure all the received half-hip rafters and flanges (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

STEP 5: We make and install stingray hooks. We make the lower cuts according to the same pattern that all the rafters of the slopes were made according to. We also first make the top cut according to this template, and then cut it at an angle = 90°-φ/2 in the desired direction. We determine the length of the rafters locally using a tape measure (see Fig. 20):

Figure 20

STEP 6: We make cornices.

We start with the pediment cornice fillies (see Fig. 21)

Figure 21

Then we attach the wind boards (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

Now we need to extend the half-hip corner rafters to the wind boards. We do this with a 50x100 mm board. Sew with a piece of inch tape (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

After that, all we have to do is hem the cornices from below and make the sheathing. The cornices can be hemmed either as is, or made into “earrings”. Here you can choose for yourself what you like best. We have already seen how all this is done in previous articles.

The rafter system is, one might say, the most important component of the roof. It is this system that is the framework for all other elements. Any rafter system has basic components. They are present in any such design. But the very layout of rafters, struts and other elements may be different. It all depends on the type of roof. What is the rafter system for a half-hip roof? What are its features and how to build it? About this and we'll talk in the article.

Varieties

The rafter system of a half-hip roof is a rather complex structure. It may not be possible to build it with your own hands, without the help of professionals. But before you begin to study the nuances of its construction, you should understand the type of roof itself. The half-hip design can be made in two types, namely:

1. Dutch version. Here the half-hip roof has two slopes. At the same time, in the lower part of the ends there is a large trapezoidal pediment. On top it is crowned with a hip in the form of a triangle.
   
2. The half-hip Danish roof has a different design. Here the vertical pediment is located on top. Next comes a large ramp or hip. In this case, it has a trapezoidal shape.
   

There are other types of half-hip roofs. Their designs can combine Dutch and Danish styles. But in any case, designing and installing a half-hip roof truss system is quite a complex job.

Advantages and disadvantages

The half-hip roof is not used very often. First of all, this is due to the rather complex rafter system. Most often, the construction of such a structure is entrusted to professional builders. If you do not have proper experience in carpentry, then it is better not to choose a half-hip roof for your home.

In addition, there is a significant increase financial expenses. More rafters and other elements will be needed. Moreover they have different sizes. All this significantly increases the cost of the project.

But the half-hip roof also has its advantages. These experts include the following:

• firstly, living space can be placed under such a roof. There will be plenty of space on the attic floor;
• Secondly, appearance The half hip roof is very attractive. This design will become a real decoration of your home;
• This roof also provides good protection from precipitation. Regardless of the angle of inclination of the slope, snow, as a rule, practically does not accumulate on them. This means that operating the roof will not require much effort from you;
• Another advantage is heat saving. The half-hip prevents the cold from penetrating inside, which will help reduce the cost of heating the attic floor;
• a half-hip roof can withstand even very strong wind. Of course, a lot will depend on the quality of the materials used in construction, the accuracy of the calculations and the correctness of the construction of the rafter system.

Therefore, if you have experience in carpentry, and you are confident that you can cope with the complex structure of the rafter system, then this roof option is quite suitable for you.

Preparatory stage

Any business, especially if it concerns construction, must begin with planning. First of all, you should make a diagram. The rafter system of a half-hip roof has a rather complex structure. But at the same time, drawing up its diagram is not very different from the same work when constructing other types of roofing.

First of all, you need to do the calculations. You need to decide on the following parameters:

When calculating the slope angle, it is also important to consider what roofing material your half-hip roof will be covered with. Each manufacturer indicates their optimal parameters, subject to which their products will work most effectively.

When calculating loads, the amount of snow cover is first taken into account. In addition, the effect of wind should be taken into account. This type of load depends not only on weather conditions in your region, but also on the angle of inclination of the half-hip roof slope, you should also take into account the weight of all materials that will be used during construction.

After all the preliminary calculations, a drawing of the rafter system for the half-hip roof is drawn up. It indicates the location of all structural elements; it is better if it is more accurate and detailed. In this case, the installation of the half-hip roof rafter system itself will be easier and without errors.

Nuances of constructing the Dutch version

The design of the rafter system for a half-hip roof, as mentioned earlier, is quite complex. Therefore, when starting construction, you should first become familiar with all the nuances of the upcoming work. If you decide to use a half-hip roof according to the Dutch type, then the installation of the rafter system is carried out as follows:

If we are talking about the Danish version of the half-hip roof, then there are no big differences in the installation of the rafter system. But there are also some nuances. In the Danish version, the trapezoid-shaped rafter legs of the slopes do not fit the ridge beam. Here they will rest top part into a crash block. This element is the base of the vertical pediment. It is fixed to the rafters of the side slopes of the roof.

When constructing a half-hip roof truss system, only high-quality materials should be used. Pine is best suited for these purposes. In addition to the main structural elements in the form of rafters, this also includes additional elements. IN mandatory struts are used. They are necessary to strengthen long rafters. Crossbars, trusses and other elements can also be used.

The pitch or distance between the rafters is chosen depending on the load that will affect the entire system. As a rule, this parameter ranges from fifty to one hundred centimeters.

When installing rafters and other elements, it is important not to forget about insulation and waterproofing. As a rule, a half-hip roof is used in cases where the owner of the house wants to build a roof instead of an attic. attic floor. In this case, it is impossible to do without roof insulation and additional vapor and waterproofing.

• We are surrounded different kinds roofs that differ in appearance and design. In individual construction, much is determined by the location of the house, its number of storeys, the materials used and, of course, the personal preferences of the owner of the house.

  One of the favorite roofing options is the half-hip roof. In appearance, it looks like an ordinary pitched one, but it can be easily recognized by the small overhangs from the end parts. It is this feature of this design that significantly increases resistance to wind loads and reliably protects the gables from precipitation.
  During construction, a complicated rafter frame with small triangular inserts in the pediment area is used. In a number of special cases related to the implementation of original architectural solutions, the number of working ramps can be increased to four.
  Let's look at each of them in detail. possible options execution.

  Varieties

  There are two types of standard half-hip roofs, differing in the shape of their slopes.

  The first of them is characterized by the presence of a fracture in the pincer plane and the trapezoidal shape of the hips, as a result of which or.

  The second is carried out according to the traditional scheme and consists of two gable slopes and triangular hip elements located above the gables (it is also called gable). Both designs protect buildings well from bad weather and are quite resistant to snow and wind loads. At the same time, they differ significantly in the design features of their supporting frame and require different approaches to its design and installation.

  Four-slope with a broken contour

  A distinctive feature of a frame equipped with four slopes is the presence of two sections on it with different inclinations of the rafter legs. Moreover, the slope angle of the upper part is approximately 30 degrees, and the lower plane is made at an angle of about 60 degrees.

  Thanks to this device, a sufficiently sized space is formed under the roof, which can be equipped as a living space. The broken rafter system is the most economical and practical option arrangement of residential under-roof spaces. The complexity of its construction is determined by the architectural features of the building and the type roofing, and also depends on the climatic characteristics of the area.
  
  

  The climate is of decisive importance when choosing such a structure, since in regions with big amount precipitation, they will linger on the slopes, exerting unacceptable pressure on the supporting frame.

  In such areas, preference is given to roofs with steep slopes and small overhangs. With low amounts of average annual precipitation, it is possible to produce half-hip types with small angles of inclination.

  The advantages include:
  

  • a significant amount of under-roof space;
  • attractive appearance, with the ability to choose any original form;
  • reliable protection of the building from bad weather.

  The relative disadvantages of broken half-hip structures are:
  

  • The complexity of arranging a rafter system containing a significant number of struts, auxiliary elements, such as crossbars, racks, ribs and special stops. However, it is thanks to this device that the half-hip roof acquires its inherent strength and reliability.
  • Significant consumption of building materials.
  • Difficulty in covering the base with roofing.

  All the difficulties listed above are more than compensated by the fact that in this case the structure acquires a rather attractive and unique appearance in its originality.

  Mansard half-hip roofs

  A mansard roof is a gable structure with triangular hip inserts built above the gables of the building. In the case of a square floor base, the roof of the building resembles a pyramid in its shape and has increased strength characteristics. On bases in the form of a rectangle, the attic roof consists of two opposite triangles and two trapezoids with attic slopes.

  Since the slopes have the same angles of inclination, the elements of the rafter system can be positioned symmetrically relative to the axial beam.

  Gable or mansard roofs have the following advantages:
  

  • possibility of use in areas characterized by significant wind loads (near the sea, for example);
  • original architectural forms allow you to construct buildings that look great against the backdrop of any natural landscape;
  • the low location of the profile base of roofs of this class contributes to their resistance to strong vibrations (when the building is located near busy highways and highways).

  The disadvantages of this option include:
  

  • difficulties with repairs and snow removal, determined by the complexity of its configuration;
  • the need for additional ventilation of the under-roof space.

  In addition, the choice of type of coating for such roofs is very limited (it is considered the most suitable for these purposes).

  

  Device
  

  Whatever the roof, the rafter system is “born” from the calculation and preparation of the drawing. When purchasing materials it is necessary Special attention pay attention to the quality of the wood, in particular its moisture content. There should be no cracks or knots on the wood.

  Even during the production process, high-quality material undergoes antiseptic and fire-prevention treatment according to a very effective scheme, including preheating of the wood. You can protect structural elements from fungus and fire at home. Periodic processing of the rafter system is a necessary component. Beams are coated using a roller or brush. The resulting protective film does not lose its effectiveness for 2–8 years.

  Step-by-step instructions for installing half-hip roofs

  

  Like any other supporting structure, the rafter systems we are considering consist of a number of elements, the main of which are:

  Each of the components listed above performs its own special function, providing the roof with the necessary rigidity.

  Installation support system It is recommended to start with laying and fixing the Mauerlat, which is fixed directly to the top trim of the finished structure. For this purpose, on brick or panel walls, first of all, it is mounted, which is reinforced with vertical studs made of galvanized metal.

  In the future, the Mauerlat beam will be installed on them, and the studs should protrude above it by about 2–3 cm. Nuts are put on them and then washers are tightened. This significantly increases the strength of the structure and ensures uniform distribution load on it.

  The studs must be correctly positioned in the concrete layer - between the rafters, so as not to further complicate the process of joining the rafters to the mauerlat.

  All actions performed during installation can be presented in the form of the following sequence of steps.

  First step: Installing the Mauerlat

  First, the Mauerlat bars are placed on reinforcement pins with a thickness of at least 10 mm, walled up in a reinforced belt. In this case, the ends of the studs should protrude from the timber by approximately 2-3 cm, and their installation step should be approximately 120 cm.

  For the purpose of waterproofing, even before installing the Mauerlat bars, the surface of the reinforced belt is covered with several (at least two) layers of roofing felt. And only after this it will be possible to install the strapping beam on the anchor pins.

  A special timber blank with a cross-section of 100×150 and 150×150 mm is used as a Mauerlat, in which all mounting holes are prepared before it is lifted onto the walls. The surface of each of these beams is pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, which protect the material from destruction and fire.

  Second step: Installation of the ridge and rafters

  

  At this stage of arranging the frame, they proceed to the installation of sloping or hip-forming elements, as well as the ridge of the main rafters. It's pretty simple procedure, only requires maintaining the ideal verticality of the racks, so during the work the use of a plumb line is mandatory.

  First, triangles of slanted (diagonal) rafter legs are installed and fixed with metal brackets, connected at the top by a ridge jumper. All parts are constructed from timber with a cross-section of 100×150 mm.

  The ends of the ridge and the corners of the building are connected to each other through diagonal rafters. Since they are longer than ordinary ones and experience increased stress, their cross-sectional area doubles. This is usually achieved by doubling the elements used for ordinary rafters.

  Third step: installation of ordinary (main) rafters and frames

  

  The next step from the ridge, supported by the Mauerlat, is to install the main and intermediate rafters (springs) in increments of 60–120 cm, filling the free spaces of two trapezoids and two triangles, respectively. The latter rest against the mowers, putting additional load on them. The outer ones must be placed in such a way that the load from their impact is equally distributed along the diagonal ones. Therefore, the support points for the slanted rafters must be different. This point must be taken into account when calculating the structure.

  When choosing the installation step for these elements, it is recommended to take into account the size of the insulation boards laid in the spaces between them.

  On a hipped (broken) roof, the main rafters are arranged in two planes with different angles of inclination. To do this, another jumper made of 100x150 mm timber is fixed along the fracture line between the diagonal slings.

  In some designs, diagonal rafters are made as extensions of the ridge beam, which is divided into two branches diverging towards the corners of the roof. Double boards of standard size 50×150 mm are usually used as flanges filling half-hip spaces, which makes it possible to strengthen the triangular frame itself.

  Upon completion of installation, the system is strengthened with such auxiliary elements as struts with a fulcrum or floor slabs or support posts. The mowing is strengthened using a truss truss.

  U installation of the ridge and ridge posts

  half-hip roof: truss structure

  They arrange lathing on the fixed rafters and begin installing steam, hydro and thermal insulation and laying the roof covering of the half-hip roof.

  Attention

  It is very important not to use foam in the space under the ridge to allow air to circulate in the under-roof space. This is another and very effective measure to combat rotting of the wooden elements of the roof frame.

Half-hip roofs are very convenient when using the attic as a living space. This kind of roof is pitched design with overhangs made at the ends. Thanks to this uniqueness, a half-hip, or Dutch, roof is able to withstand large wind load. Overhangs additionally protect the gables of the building from precipitation. To figure out how to build a half-hip roof, you need to distinguish between its variations:

• gable type half-hip roof;
• hipped type of semi-hipped roof.

In this case, the design may undergo some individual changes, which depend on the type of roof, the presence or absence of a residential area in attic space, climate of the area. For areas with snowy, harsh winters, they try to make such roofs with not very large overhangs and very steep slopes.

Advantages of the half-hip roof type

In addition to the opportunity to obtain a large and practical space in the attic and equip it for a comfortable living space, as well as protecting the gables from the effects of bad weather, among the advantages of this roof are its beauty, effectiveness and the ability to implement a variety of options.

Note! This type of roof is characterized by increased structural strength. It is very suitable for areas with extreme climate conditions, and is also resistant to vibrations.

Disadvantages of a half-hip (Dutch) roof

Among the disadvantages of construction Dutch roof:

• the complexity of building a rafter system;
• high consumption roofing material and wood;
• Difficulty in cleaning and repair.

It is very difficult to build such a roof on your own, without the help of specialists. There are many elements in the rafter system, which complicates the construction.

Construction of a Dutch roof

The design of a half-hip consists of many elements, one of which simply cannot be excluded, since each has its own purpose. The basis is the mauerlat and a complex rafter system. If the walls of the building are made of brick, it is good to place a reinforced concrete reinforced belt on top with galvanized studs with a diameter of 10 mm and a pitch of 1.2 m protruding between the future rafters, and place the Mauerlat beam on it over a couple of layers of roofing material. For the Mauerlat, timber with a cross section of 150×150 mm is mainly used. Next, with the help of a notch and the use of iron brackets, a ridge is arranged, to which the slanted and diagonal rafters (or rafters) are attached.

It is very important to take correct measurements and calculate the required rafter lengths. It is best to prepare rafters 50 cm longer than the calculated data to avoid troubles during work.

Note! From reinforced double boards They make rafter half-legs, resting on the sprigs. Pairing boards helps achieve the required increased load-bearing capacity of the roof.

When the slanted rafters are firmly attached to the mauerlat and the ridge, the ranks are installed. In this case, the width of the insulating material is taken into account, according to which the pitch of ordinary rafters is calculated. To ensure that the rafters rest against the base, cut-outs are made at the ends; on the sides they can be attached to the mauerlat with metal corners. If the spans are large, reinforcement is used using struts with stops. Using a truss truss, you can strengthen the diagonal rafters.

If the slab covering the house is reinforced concrete, the racks with stops can be rested against it without any problems. In another case, additional tightening must be installed on the overlap tanks.

All wooden elements Before installation, structures should be treated with special solutions to protect them from rotting and the effects of fire.

Completion of the half-hip construction

The completion of a Dutch roof, like any other, includes laying sheathing, vapor barrier material, and insulation, waterproofing film and directly to the roof itself. Necessary free space under the ridge for air circulation and ventilation.

Note! It is better to use a vapor barrier film with a foil side, which will protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture.

The insulation can be polystyrene foam boards, fiberglass or basalt slabs. On top of them, to protect against moisture and condensation, lay a condensation film or diffusion membrane. Roofing felt is also still used as waterproofing, but since its properties are short-lived, it is better to abandon it in favor of more modern materials.

Next from wooden slats a counter-lattice is installed to secure the waterproofing and create a gap for ventilation. On top of the counter-lattice, a main lathing is made, along which the roofing material is secured.

Photo