Will the door be held only on the foam. The choice of mounting foam

Installing interior doors difficult process. Even with the slightest inaccuracy in measurement and deviation during installation, they will look askance, and, quite possibly, will not close at all. The topic of our article is the technology of installing doors.

So, before starting work, prepare essential tool and materials. Self-installation of interior doors suggests that you will have the following materials:

• Door
• Box
• loops
• dowel
• Mounting foam
• wooden wedges
• Ankera
• Wood screws

Door installation technology requires the following tools:

• Tape measure and pencil
• Chisel
• Goniometer
• Level
• Wood saw
• Drill with a set of drills

1. If you are replacing old doors, remember that dismantling must be done very carefully so as not to damage the doorway. Before you get together new door don't forget to measure it. If the doorway has standard sizes 70-80 cm, then consider that you are very lucky, because finished door can be purchased at almost any hardware store. If the doorway is different non-standard sizes, then the door will have to be made to order, which will undoubtedly come out more expensive.

Do not measure the doorway if you do not have a bed flooring. Professional or self-installation interior doors are made only on the finished floor.

Also, do not rush to narrow the doorway if it seems wide to you. Think about how you will bring furniture in and out through it. Also pay attention to the distance from the box to the wall - the platband should fit in its entirety, since it looks at least ugly when cut off. When taking measurements, remember that there should be 2 mm gaps between the frame and the door at the top and sides, and 4 mm at the bottom. If the gap is too large, it will deprive the door of attractiveness, and if it is too small, the door simply will not close. You can, of course, call a professional measurer who, for a fee, will save you the hassle of tape measure.

It is better to give preference to doors that come with a box already assembled, especially if you plan to mount the door yourself. Self-installation of interior doors in this case will be elementary: it is enough to fit the box into the doorway and fix it.

2. So, you yourself or with the help of a master measured the doorway and bought required door. Now you have to insert loops.

First, decide on which side the handle should be, and in which direction the door will open. These two parameters determine the location of the loops.

Experts believe that from a security point of view, it is more expedient to open the door outwards.

Determine the number of hinges to be installed. Usually it is enough to screw two loops - top and bottom, but for greater reliability, you can add another one in the middle.

When marking, use a goniometer. Attach the hinge to the door on the end side and circle with a pencil.

The resulting contour is elementarily selected with a chisel to a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop.

Remember that ideally the hinges are installed at a distance of 200-250 mm from the bottom edge of the door and 150-200 mm from the top edge. If you bought a door with a frame without a bottom bar, then when marking the hinges, consider the thickness of the coating in this place. When you finish marking the hinges, screw them to the door with self-tapping screws.

When installing the door to the bathroom, do not forget about a special threshold that protects against water entering the apartment in case of flooding. If there is such a ledge, the door to the bathroom will have to be installed 10 cm higher than the rest of the doors in the apartment. This feature must be considered when buying a door. For example, instead of a standard two-meter design, you can take a shortened version 190 cm long.

3. Next milestone- planting the door frame in its place. Place the hinged door on the box. For more accurate marking, use wooden or plastic wedges.

Insert them between the door and the frame at a distance of 2 mm from the top and 4 mm from the bottom. Attach the hinges to the door frame and circle with a pencil, and then prepare the place for the hinges in the same way as you did with the door. Next, install the box in the doorway, after removing door leaf with hinges - this will facilitate the installation process.

Choose internal fasteners whenever possible. Due to their special design, they are invisible after installation and, accordingly, do not spoil appearance doors. External fasteners will somehow be visible.

Align the box horizontally and vertically using a level.

Drill with a drill required holes under the anchor in the box and opening.

For a strong fixation, it is enough to make three holes on the left and right, but you can drill one additional hole at the top and bottom. Now you can fix the box in the opening.

The door frame can be "planted" on the mounting foam. To do this, gaps are made around the perimeter of the doorway, the box is installed in a prepared place and foamed. As practice shows, the mounting foam itself can withstand a large load and does not require additional fasteners. When installing the door frame on the mounting foam, keep in mind that during the hardening process, the foam increases in volume by 5 times! If there is too much foam, the door frame may deviate from the vertical level and even deform.

4. The final stage is the enclosing with platbands. Secure the planks with self-tapping screws or decorative nails.

This completes the self-installation of interior doors.

Each master is faced with the problem of how and what to mount assembled doors. To install ready door block application possible various ways installation. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the right one for yourself. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, to directly fix the box in the opening, you need fasteners and mounting foam. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.

The main stages of installing a door block

At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then press this structure away from the opening. If during installation old box anchor bolts were used, nails that are not possible to unscrew, they can be cut off with the help of a grinder.

Before installing the interior door frame, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the wall box does not deepen in the opening. This is necessary to fit the door trim. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the opening errors.

First, the installations are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location of the level so that the box is level with the door.

Working with mounting foam

It is important to know that the foam that is designed for the gun is much better and more convenient to use due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam served with a straw large quantity, it will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to cover the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with the fixation of individual small sections. After 30 minutes, you can already go through the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a large amount of foam, because during expansion the foam will squeeze the box inside. We recommend using professional foams.

Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of high humidity a consequence of the expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door simply stops closing for this reason.

Video on possible door mounting methods

There are several ways to fasten the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use special kind mounts. Various options fasteners provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope the video stories on the options for installing boxes wooden doors will help you.

Hidden way to install doors on foam

The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used for fixing, and correct location checked by building level. Foaming with mounting foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is kept almost thanks to the foam alone.

To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small spacers of 3 mm are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can be removed only when the foam dries. Usually the door is left overnight.

This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.

Installing doors with clamps or spacers

The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use inside for temporary fastening of the door block in the opening of the spacer. It can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.

Both of these methods are very good for light and small doors.

Fastening doors with Knauf hangers

For these purposes, Knauf's direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best fit.

• First you need to screw the plates to the box.
• Insert the door into the opening.
• Adjust the level.
• We mark the places under the recess in the wall.
• We make a sample under the plate.

After that, we set according to the level and fix the plates. For adjustment we use wedging wooden blocks.

It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess will definitely need to be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is good only when there is no fine finish.

New mounting options

This video will show you how to fix door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door frame by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of self-tapping screws that are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.

To achieve the final fixation of the box in doorway using the usual means of adjustment.

With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.

A clear advantage of this method is the full possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining the original appearance of the box and exterior finish walls.

Concealed installation, fastening under hinges

As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the loop and fastened through it to the wall. From the side of the lock, another mount is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.

After fixing directly, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and fill all the gaps with foam.

A significant advantage of this method is the relative rigidity, the preservation of appearance.

Through-hole fastening on anchors or screws

This is the most common standard version installation of interior doors. For this mounting option, first, holes for anchors are drilled in the right places of the racks, then the door is fixed in the opening.

Training

• Marking 4 anchors on each side.
• Drilling with a pen 14 mm to a depth of 10 mm (space for a plug).
• We drill a through hole with a 10 mm pen (a place for fixing with an anchor).

After that, the box is exposed and the concrete under the anchor is drilled with a 10 mm drill. When the box rests on its anchors, it holds securely and does not require any spacers. Mounting points can be hidden by installing decorative caps desired color, size (14 mm). Screws can be used instead of anchors, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. The use of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) a curved rail. Doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs.

Tricks when installing door extensions

Conclusion

There are many options for installing an interior door frame, but you should choose the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be affected by which opening the installation takes place, take into account the intensity and other factors.

At modern construction, installation or repair, such a multifunctional, easy-to-use, reliable material as polyurethane foam is widely used. Its versatility and convenience greatly simplifies construction tasks for both professional builders and ordinary consumers who prefer to do some part of the repair or installation of door-windows on their own. Foam for mounting on construction market appeared relatively recently and immediately became one of the most popular, demanded and capital-intensive goods. However, it cannot be said that it was developed only today - the famous German technologist, chemist and industrialist Otto Bayer invented this substance back in 1947 - as a continuation of the development of the polyurethanes he invented. Polyurethane foam was originally used in the form of insulating boards for military purposes, as it is an excellent protection against the threat of radioactive radiation. In the 70s, the British company "Royal Chemical Industry" produced the first aerosol can with polyurethane foam, and the use in construction began in Sweden, at the dawn of the 80s of the last century.

Composition and scope

All mounting foams that are on the market contain almost the same composition and are polyurethane foam one-component sealant enclosed in an aerosol can. In addition to the liquid prepolymer, the can also contains propellant- gas under excess pressure, displacing the prepolymer. For hardening, the substance does not require mixing with other components - when sprayed, the composition inside the can solidifies on its own (polymerization process), under the action of moisture in the air, forming a porous material resembling foam plastic in properties. The cured foam is well and easily processed for the next construction steps - cut to the desired shape, puttied or plastered.

The name itself - "assembly", clearly indicates the scope - use in the installation or repair of door frames, window sills, window frames and any other wooden, concrete, metal or plastic structures. Filling gaps between structures and openings gives a much greater sealing effect than using cement mortar, tow, mineral or plain wool, foam rubber, moreover, such work requires much less time and is much more convenient. When using foam, no additional tools and devices, energy sources are not needed either.

Properties

The substance can penetrate into the most inaccessible places, turning into a fairly solid material in a few hours.

The resulting material is not subject to the process of decay, has good temperature and sound insulation properties, and is also a sealing agent. In addition to filling gaps, cracks and cavities, polyurethane foam is used for insulation, sealing structures, additional fixation of water or heating pipes, electrical wiring, sealing materials during roofing works– tiled or corrugated metal sheets. It is also widely used in the installation of stationary refrigeration units and in vehicles transporting frozen foods. Also important are such parameters as stickiness and dielectric properties, fire safety (this parameter is determined by the flammability class of the foam).

• Sealing (thermal insulation)- allows you to insulate rooms by filling cracks - relevant for workrooms, warehouses, greenhouses, hangars, garages, etc. Filling gaps and cracks in the repair and installation of roof structures. Use when installing door and window frames - creating a moisture-resistant, heat-insulating seam. Filling the voids arising during the installation of water or heating pipes, which are formed when they pass through walls or floor slabs.
• Gluing- you can quite confidently fix the door and window blocks even without the use of nails or screws. This property also allows you to fix insulating or insulating materials - for example, when insulating a room with foam, you can glue foam boards to Wall.
• Soundproofing- sealing the junctions of air conditioners and exhaust hoods, ventilation ducts, slots between pipes, allows you to reduce the noise level that occurs during vibrations.

Varieties

As noted above, the composition polyurethane foam almost the same regardless of the purpose of its use. But there are differences in the design of the cylinders themselves, and on this basis, the foam is divided into professional and household.

professional- or as the manufacturers themselves call it - pistol. Differs in existence in a cylinder of the special working valve. To work with such foam, it is necessary to use a special dosing device - mounting applicator gun. Such a gun is put on a balloon valve intended for it, as a result of which it becomes possible to dispense foam into slots and cavities. This mode will allow much more precise control right amount foam supply, while saving up to 30% of consumption. Also an important point is the ability to work with a gun with one hand. The energy-efficient handle and metering trigger make work much more convenient and, therefore, more productive. The presence of a long thin metal barrel allows you to supply foam to hard-to-reach places.

Balloon valves can be either threaded - screwed onto the gun, or "fastened" in one motion. Recently, almost all major manufacturers of mounting foam equip the cylinders with the so-called reusable valve, which allows the cylinder to be hermetically closed with the remaining foam and used after a while without the contents drying out. In addition, additional convenience is also inherent in it - you can work not only holding the can upside down, as was customary, but also with the valve up, which often makes work easier, and in some work, sometimes holding the can upside down is not only inconvenient, but also simple impossible.

The disadvantage of using an applicator gun is its considerable price, so it makes no sense to purchase it for occasional homework - this device is needed for professionally engaged in such installation work builders and repairmen. In addition, additional costs will be required during its operation - after each use, the gun must be washed with a special solution that cleans the internal cavities of the applicator from the remnants of foam that has not yet thickened. Such a cleaning agent is also contained in a pressurized can having nozzles to facilitate cleaning.

household foam- either semi-professional or manual. Its use does not involve the use of any devices other than the cylinder itself. To get started, you need to put on the valve the plastic tube that comes with the cylinder, which has a lever - adapter. With small amounts of work, this option is convenient and practical. As a rule, it is used in cases where the expansion of the foam is not too important - in ventilation shafts, interpanel seams, installation of door and window frames.

If not the entire volume of the balloon has been used, the tube can be removed, washed with a solvent (for example, acetone) and reused after some time.

Use temperature

• summer foam- at the temperature indicated on the cans from 5C to 35C, the foam must be used at the temperature of the treated surfaces within the same limits. However, this temperature limit speaks only about the temperature during work, and the temperature resistance of the cured foam is in a much larger range - from -50C to + 90C - this applies to both summer and winter foam.
• winter foam- the operating temperature range is from -18C (some types -10C) and up to + 35C. "Winter" options in their composition have special additives and additives that allow polymerization at a low percentage of humidity, since frosty air is much drier than when warm temperature. Moisturizing surfaces in frost is ineffective - the water quickly freezes and becomes ice. It must be borne in mind that the already expanded foam depends on the external temperature - the lower it is, the smaller the expansion value. For example, 300 ml of liquid foam at +20C will expand to 30l, at zero - up to 25l, at -5C - about 20l, and at -10 - only 15l.
• All season foam- appeared relatively recently, so not all manufacturers can offer it. It has best properties summer and winter foam, providing, thanks to an improved formula, a large volume of foam at the exit, fast polymerization and the ability to work with it at -10C without heating the cylinder.

Requirements for mounting foam

• Guaranteed Claimed Yield- competition for the market is often conducted by methods that are not entirely justified for the consumer - even manufacturers of high-quality and well-proven foam are trying to reduce the price of their products due to banal underfilling. For example, with a declared volume of 45 liters, only 37 liters actually come out, and no more than 50 out of 65 liters. Therefore, it is desirable to control the weight of the cylinder - with a volume liquid substance in 750 ml, the balloon should weigh 850-920 gr.
• secondary expansion- also a fairly important indicator, especially when installing window sills, doors and windows.
  The fact is that the expansion of the foam occurs in two stages - when the liquid polyurethane leaves the cylinder, the compressed gas expands, equalizing in pressure with environment, and expands the pores of the composite, turning it into a foam with a significantly higher volume. This so-called primary extension. Then, the foam in contact with moisture provokes the occurrence of chemical reaction, as a result of which it hardens. But at the same time, CO2-carbon dioxide is released, creating overpressure in the pores of the foam, and its volume gradually increases over a fairly long period of time - even up to several days, although 24 hours are usually written. This is the secondary expansion of the foam. When installing window and door frames, the percentage increase in the secondary expansion in relation to the primary should not exceed 15-25%. But some manufacturers, saving at the expense of the main components, produce "uphill" products with a secondary increase of 50-60%. What it threatens - it's easy to guess - door frames concave inward, deformed windows and swollen window sills. Therefore, it is very desirable to purchase proven foam.
• Full exit of foam from a cylinder- this indicator characterizes the filling of the balloon with an "honest" volume of the composite. If there is underfilling, then during operation the pressure drops rapidly - as a result, there is still foam inside, but it is already impossible to use it - low pressure is not able to squeeze it out from there. As a result, not only the foam that "went into action" is paid, but also the remaining one in the cylinder.
• Approximate foam consumption can be estimated based on the following data - 300 ml of the composite gives about 30 liters of foam - with this volume you can "foam" a standard door frame with 3-5 cm gaps. 500 ml of composite will yield up to 35-40 liters - this is enough for one and a half boxes under the same conditions. 750ml - 45-50L output - Enough to process two or more standard door frames.
• A few more requirements according to the quality of the foam - it should stick well to surfaces without dripping off them, the degree of shrinkage should be small (shrinkage is slight decrease volume after final solidification). Also be elastic, do not crack or crumble after it hardens, especially in frosty weather.

Application rules

Training. Polyurethane foam sealant polymerizes using air humidity, therefore it will be advisable to moisten the surfaces with water before applying it - the curing time will decrease, and the expansion of the foam will increase. If work is carried out in winter time- Remove ice and frost from surfaces.

Immediately before use, the balloon should be shaken vigorously for about a minute, and in cold weather, warmed up to room temperature, but without using open fire. These measures will help increase the foam yield and its density.

When installing and sealing window and door frames, you need to remember about a two- to three-fold increase in the volume of sealant, therefore, to prevent deformation of door or window blocks, they must be strengthened with spacers, without removing them until the foam has completely hardened.

Usage. When spraying, the can should be kept upside down so that the composite is near the valve, otherwise it may result in compressed air, a decrease in pressure will occur and a significant part of the foam will remain in the cylinder.

The seam must be filled from the bottom up, evenly moving the balloon, while filling the void volume by no more than half. If the cavities are larger than 50 mm, they must be filled not in one go, but in several stages, waiting for each layer to harden.

You need to know that the foam, although it has a fairly strong bonding property, is not suitable for working with polyethylene and silicone - it will not stick to these materials.

End of work. If foam gets on clothes, some objects or hands, it can be washed off or special means or just acetone.

The initial hardening of the foam surface occurs after 20 minutes - you can already touch it. But it will finally harden no earlier than after 7-8 hours - this largely depends on the ambient humidity and temperature.

After complete drying, you can cut off excess foam fragments with a knife, after which the surface must be protected from external influences, in particular from sun rays, - it can be plastered, puttied or coated with paint.

Precautionary measures

Foam in liquid form may cause skin irritation, respiratory tract or eye. Therefore, when working, you need to use gloves and goggles, with poor ventilation and large volumes of work - respirators, since the concentration of vapors can be increased.

Modern interior door leaf has a lot of advantages: reliable, easy to install, has a variety of designs. But some points encountered during installation require detailed consideration. Installation of interior doors involves several stages, each of which has its own nuances. Foaming the door leaf is not so easy, such work requires care and strict adherence to the rules, then you will get a good result.

How to install a door leaf?

Door manufacturers offer big choice products. The door is immediately completed with a door frame. All you need is to measure the doorway and go to the store. Remember that there must be a gap between the wall and the box for the foam, which guarantees the reliability and strength of the installed structure.

Install interior door It's easy if you follow the instructions. Working with the door leaf requires preparation, so the first thing to do is to purchase a tool kit, which includes:

• roulette;
• level;
• hacksaw;
• perforator;
• a hammer;
• mount;
• screwdriver;

Door fittings:

• door hinges;
• padlock with handle.

To install the interior canvas, follow several steps:

• dismantle old door. To do this, remove the door leaf and disassemble the door frame;
• assemble a new door frame. To assemble it, release the racks from the packaging and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. The box is assembled with rectangular corners upright or beveled;

• install the door hinges on the frame. To secure the hinges, you will need tools such as a cutter, a screwdriver, an awl, a thin drill and a drill. Sometimes a circular saw and a pencil are used to fasten the loops;

It is important! Remember that large size hinges are installed on the box, and the hinges small size- on the door. For greater accuracy in installing the hinge, attach the door and make the necessary notes. When applying the hinges to the door leaf, pay attention to which way the hinges are turned. According to the rules, the hinge hinges should look at the front side. It remains to fix the loops by aligning the holes.

• install the box in the doorway and secure with wooden wedges. But installing the box is not enough, you also need to align it vertically and horizontally. As a result, the frame must stand so that the door leaf is fixed in three positions: in open form, closed and semi-closed;

It is important! Remember that the gap "on the foam" between the frame and the wall should be 1-2 cm. This distance will be enough to secure the door frame and not damage it.

• the gap between the wall and the box is filled with foam. To learn how to do it right, pay more attention to this item.

How to properly foam the gap between the box and the wall?

After you assembled and installed the box in the opening, there were small gaps around the entire perimeter. They are sealed with foam. The work will not cause difficulties if you consider that it is very sticky and heavy, so the door frame and the door itself must be closed from getting into it.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• before using it, take care of the spacers on the door leaf, as the foam greatly increases in volume. You can even install cardboard, from the packaging of the door leaf;
• shake the balloon, and moisten the opening with water, along with the section of the box. Humidification is needed to increase the adhesion of the foam and accelerate its curing. Handle the balloon carefully. Hold it upside down;
• monitor the temperature in the room. If it corresponds to the range from +5 to +30 degrees, then the work is performed by the usual type of material. If the temperature range fluctuates to -10 degrees, then quality work possible with all-weather material.

It is important! To avoid distortions during work, apply the foam in several layers. In this case, the interval between the first and second layer should be 1-3 hours.

When filling the space with foam, do not fill it entirely, a third will be enough, as it greatly increases in volume. Vertical filling of voids start from the bottom, then lower section will become a support for the upper. It will take 24 hours for the foam to dry completely. After 5 hours, you can remove the spacers.

After its final drying, the excess is cut off, and the surface is sealed with putty and paint to protect it from negative impact moisture or sun.

Platband installation

After the box is installed, and the joints are sealed, it's time to attach the trim. They are nailed down. If these are platbands made of fragile material, then drill holes in them before nailing. This will keep them from cracking.

Which foam to choose

The work of installing an interior door depends on the technology, as well as on the right foam. What mounting foam is better for interior doors? This question is asked by every person who is faced with the installation of a door leaf. To solve this problem, you need to know that polyurethane foam is classified according to different criteria:

• by composition;
• by scope;
• according to the degree of combustion;
• temperature of use.

Compound

All types of mounting foam available on the construction market have the same composition with minor additions, which is why they are called one-component polyurethane sealant in an aerosol package. There are also complex compositions, which are called two-component. But for domestic use they are little used.

The composition of one-component foam includes:

• prepolymers (polyol, isocyanate), which act as the basis of the foam;
• a mixture of butane and propane, which act as a propellant gas;
• elements that increase adhesion and the degree of foaming act as filler substances.

Applications

The scope of application lies in the name - assembly, so it is used for any repair work:

• when installing windows and doors;
• when mounting structures made of wood, metal, concrete or plastic.

Based on this, mounting foam is:

• professional, which is used experienced craftsmen. The foam is inserted into a special gun and dispensed in portions in the right places;
• semi-professional, which is sprayed with a plastic tube, dressed on a pressure lever. It is recommended to use it for solving small problems.

Degree of combustibility

This indicator is indicated on the cylinders of mounting foam. Foam of the following classes is presented on the construction market:

• B1 - polyurethane foam with refractory properties;
• B2 - foam capable of self-extinguishing;
• B3 - foam, which is subject to combustion.

Application temperature

Foam is used in various conditions, that's why temperature regime differently affects the components of the foam. To avoid problems when installing doors or windows, select foam based on the temperature range in the room.

Depending on this, three types of polyurethane foam are distinguished:

• summer, which is used at temperatures from +5 to +35 ° С;
• winter, which is used at temperatures from -18 to +35 ° С;
• universal or all-weather, which is used at temperatures from -10 to +35 ° C.

Properties

The popularity of polyurethane foam is explained by the operational properties, which are also its advantage. In this regard, mounting foam has:

• high adhesion with any materials;
• heat resistance;
• non-conductivity of electricity;
• high setting and hardening speed;
• toxicity before and after polymerization;
• incombustibility (only some types);
• moisture resistance;
• combination of plasticity and elasticity;
• low thermal conductivity;
• slight shrinkage during the year;
• chemical resistance;
• high strength;
• good sealing effect, which cannot be achieved even with cement mortar;
• short time for foaming;
• absence additional materials and tools;
• lack of power sources.

Mounting foam greatly facilitate the installation of door frames. However, this attachment must be used with caution. Excessive zeal, caused by the desire to fix the door frame as firmly as possible, can lead to a disastrous result - its curvature.

But it is better not to allow this. And if this does happen, you need to know how to eliminate the defect that has arisen.

To properly install the door, first of all, you need to choose it for the size of the opening in the wall, and the door frame - taking into account the thickness of the wall. Modern doors allow you to do this.

Before fixing the door frame with mounting foam, it is necessary to carefully set it vertically and fix it so that it stands firmly.

In at least three places - on the level door hinges and in its middle part - the box is bursting with wooden blocks with linings or expanding struts. The surfaces of the box that the foam can get on must be covered so that you do not have to suffer with its removal later.

How to remove mounting foam if you made a mistake?

If necessary, traces foam, while it has not yet hardened, can be removed with acetone, thinner or cleaning agent. The cracks are filled with foam completely, but in any case it should be introduced into the cavity carefully and in small doses.

Spacers are removed only after the foam has completely hardened. This takes from 45 minutes to several hours - depending on the type of foam, the width of the gaps to be filled and the air temperature. Foam is one- and two-component. The first one is easier to work with, but the second hardens faster, does not put so much pressure on the enclosing structures and does not require moistening of the internal surfaces of the cavity to be filled.

There are times when, when hanging a door leaf, they suddenly discover that it clearly does not “fit” into the door frame. The reason is the inward curvature uprights boxes. And it happened under pressure polyurethane foam introduced into the cavity between the box and the wall in an excessively large amount.

When the first signs of deflection of the door frame appear under the pressure of the hardening polyurethane foam the foam must be removed immediately. After that, the box is bursting with bars suitable in length. The gaps formed after cleaning are again filled with foam. But to prevent this from happening, it’s better not to “save” on spacers, even if they interfere with the passage from room to room.

CHINIM BUGING BOX

1. Where the door frame is kicked out, the hardened mounting foam is cut off with a fine-toothed saw.
2. The box is expanded in the appropriate place using a bar of suitable length and wedges or an adjustable spacer.
3. Having given the box the desired position, the cleaned cavities are again filled with foam.
4. Having installed the door frame in the wall opening, it is fixed in the opening with the help of wooden wedges and spacers.
5. Loosening and knocking out the wedges, expose the box vertically.
6. Using a square, check the squareness of the box.
7. For reliability, the box can also be fixed in the opening with clamps using wooden slips.
8. With a large width of the slots between the box and the wall, pieces of cardboard are inserted to prevent the foam from sliding down.
9. Foam is injected into the cavity continuously, but in small doses

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