Water in the cellar of the garage: what to do? How to permanently get rid of dampness in the cellar and basement. What is the best way to fill the basement in the apartment.

Good afternoon! Please tell me how to fill the basement on your own. The house is 6 by 5, the height of the basement is about two meters, the house stands on strip foundation, in one brick, damp in the basement. I can send a video of the basement if needed. How much earth or clay do you need?

Allah, Moscow.

Hello, Alla from Moscow!

In each case, the basement backfilling operation is suitable according to the characteristics of the soil and the basement itself.

There are basements, which are rooms completely with concrete sides (floor, walls and ceiling with a hole for a hatch), there are brick ones, there are no floors, just with dense earth on it. The water that enters the basement can also be different (groundwater, rainwater, from a water conduit broken nearby, etc.).

In some cases, there is a need for a drainage device to divert water.

In practice, there was a case when the owner, for a number of reasons, did not fill up the basement, but made a recess at its bottom, where incoming water and condensate from the surfaces of the basement were collected. A pump hose was lowered into the recess, which automatically turned on when a certain water level was present.

Without inspecting your basement under the house, I would not give unambiguous recommendations.

However, if you list general principles operations on , then you most likely should do the following.

Filling can be done with many materials, for example - ordinary soil, that is, earth, sand, gravel, sand-gravel mixture, clay, rubble, construction debris, etc.

Limestone should be avoided as it attracts moisture. / Let me explain that limestone gravel looks like white or yellowish stones of various sizes. /

But in any case, then, over time, subsidence of the thickness of the filled (filled) material is not ruled out. This I mean that in a couple of years you will have to add some more sagging imported material from above. Otherwise, there will be a hole in the place of the backfill.

Judging by your words, the basement is just damp, not an underground lake. Therefore, you can go for the simplest option.

First of all, if the basement floor is a concrete screed, then it is necessary to break through several holes in it in different places. In case of water leaving with its possible entry into the former basement.

Then fill the entire volume of the basement with the material that you can get and bring.

I don't think you'll put a screed over the top of the backfill, it's very effective but too expensive. Therefore, you can simply put a layer of roofing material on top of the backfill, this protects the subfloors of the house from evaporating moisture from the soil and settling condensate on its lower surfaces with all the negative in the form of wood decay.

And after a couple of years, check if there is water on the roofing material. If there is, then remove the roofing material, add soil to eliminate pits from subsidence of the covered materials and lay the roofing material again.

Naturally - check the ventilation of the space under the floor through the vents.

In terms of quantity required material see for yourself - a simple arithmetic calculation shows that the basement area is about 30 square meters and with a height of 2 meters, all this will amount to about 60 cubic meters of the required material. That is, about 6 KAMAZ trucks of ten tons.

The material may be relatively cheap, but you will have to pay for its import. It is difficult to say how much, how to agree with the drivers, but usually the trip starts from 2.5 thousand rubles and can reach 5 thousand or more.

It is most optimal when construction waste is removed from a facility under construction nearby and drivers will not have to drive a dump truck tens of kilometers to a landfill, but dump the contents of the body on your site. However, this is not relevant to your question.

Yes, and transferring about 60 cubic meters is a cumbersome business, you will have to hire guest workers. Three or four Uzbeks or Tajiks can do this in two or three days, they are natural diggers. Russians, Khokhols and Bulbashi in no less than a week, but they rarely undertake this.

So all this will result in a considerable penny.

How else?

In any case - good luck!

Other questions on the subject of basements and undergrounds.

When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin to have problems with flooding cellars and cellars. Such an unpleasant situation happens due to a rise in the level of groundwater. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and retains it. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.

The cause of basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, reservoirs. Also, the level of groundwater is affected by melted snow and precipitation in the form of rain. There are several ways to help deal with annual floods. By choosing one of them for yourself, you will be able to make the basement dry.

Creation of a drainage system

Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With it, it is possible to prevent flooding of the basement, as well as drain land plot. The drainage system is made at the stage of basement construction. Correctly installed system, will help once and for all to forget about the water in the basement and protect the foundation from destruction.

How does it work drainage system
The basis of the drainage is a pipe of large diameter (at least 100 mm). It has holes all over. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:

1. Dig a sloped trench around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and runoff.
2. Be sure to use filter materials (geotextile and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from flooding.
3. Drainage to the central sewer, where a large amount of groundwater will accumulate.

What is necessary:

• drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
• fine, washed gravel;
• geotextile fabric;
• river sand.

Mounting

1. Make a trench below the floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the building. The trench should have a slope sufficient for water runoff.
2. Place a sheet of geotextile into the excavated trench. And then cover with crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm). Thus, you will create a primary layer that filters groundwater.
3. At the next stage, lay the drainage pipe (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of rubble. Check that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe to the well.
4. The laid pipe is completely covered with rubble. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile over the crushed stone bedding. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. After that, fill the trench with sand.

As a result, you will get a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing clogging of the perforated pipe. And the sand will ensure the transportation of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.

Conclusion
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate main reason flooding - high groundwater levels. The result of the drainage will be a dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements can be equipped this way.

However, in exceptional cases, cellar owners can build drainage channels inside the premises. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some points that occur during the floor screed stage. After installation internal system drainage, the basement will lose 30 cm of height.

Creation of an automatic water pumping system

Not all basement owners have the ability to create a slope with the system drainage outlet water. Therefore, in such areas, a different method is used. To dry the room, install automatic system pumping out excess water.

What does that require:

1. Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole measuring 50x50x50 cm. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the walls from collapsing. Pour 10 cm thick gravel into the hole.
2. Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.

Mounting
In the excavated pit, place the pump, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the pit. The pump will work, reacting to the rising level, and pump out excess moisture. This will continue until the groundwater finally subsides.

Conclusion
A fairly simple system that is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to set up. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it exhausts its resource, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, the pumping system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but only temporarily relieve the consequences.

Basement waterproofing

Wall and floor waterproofing helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bituminous mastic and plaster. Apply coats above flood level with some headroom in case groundwater rises.

What does that require:

1. Buy materials: hydrotex or penetron, bituminous mastic, sand, waterproof cement, metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
2. Collect necessary tools: a hard brush and a spatula for applying compounds, an iron brush for grouting between brick joints or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the mortar.
3. Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the "Kid" pump with a lower suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Rub the seams, corners, cracks with a brush.

Mounting

1. Treat the concrete floor and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macrocracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
2. Then coat the corners, seams, cracks with bituminous mastic. Then, in the same way, apply mastic to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness must be at least 2 cm.
3. Attach metal grate to Wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a cement mortar, medium viscosity. Using a spatula, apply a layer of plaster 3 cm thick.
4. Lay a metal mesh on the floor and fill it with liquid cement mortar and let it dry. At this point, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered complete.

Conclusion
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater seepage through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of walls and floors. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to a drainage system, which is not possible in all basements.

So, the above methods of dealing with basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on specific goals and financial capabilities.

Video: how to make drainage in the basement with your own hands

With the appearance of water in the basement, owners of private houses and summer cottages most often face. This phenomenon not only makes it impossible to use the basement for household needs, but also adversely affects the entire structure. Often flooding is caused by groundwater - consider what measures should be taken to get rid of unnecessary fluid in the basement, and the reasons for its occurrence.

The nearest aquifer from the earth's surface, usually found in loose permeable rocks, is called groundwater. It is usually formed under the influence of precipitation and ingress of water from surface reservoirs.

The groundwater horizon is not constant and depends on various factors.

The most frequent of them are the following:

• the amount of precipitation, melt water;
• changes in reservoirs that feed groundwater;
• technogenic human activity (hydroelectric power stations, canals and reservoirs, mining, industrial effluents, etc.).

In groundwater, a variety such as perched water is distinguished - a liquid that accumulates in the upper water-unsaturated layer of soil above water-resistant soils (clay, loam). It is she who gathers in the lowlands, erodes roads and most of all depends on precipitation.

The ground layer of water, unlike the artesian one, does not have pressure. In addition, this water is usually unsuitable for drinking and is polluted with various wastes, including man-made ones, and often has aggressive impurities.

Groundwater can be as aggressive as:

• general acid;
• leaching;
• magnesian;
• sulfate;
• carbon dioxide.

All of them to some extent dissolve calcium carbonate and lead to the destruction of concrete.

Did you know? On Earth, 96% of water is in the oceans, about 1.5% is The groundwater, another 1.5% are the glaciers of Greenland and Antarctica. Moreover, the share fresh water only 2.5% - the vast majority of it is in groundwater and glaciers.

What is the danger to the house

High level water can adversely affect an existing structure:

• in the basement, unwanted liquid, dampness and mold may appear, it will become unusable;
• aggressive impurities of groundwater destroy concrete, and the foundation may lose its bearing capacity;
• the perched water that accumulates during the rainy season can wash out the paths on the site, wash the walls, spoil the green spaces.

A high level of groundwater is considered to be above 2 meters in depth. But their occurrence below 2 meters is considered low and is welcomed by builders.

When building a house, you should always determine the level of groundwater on the site. Geological exploration is the best way to deal with this. But if you do not want to use third-party services, then you can determine how far the groundwater is by the level of liquid in the well in your area (or in a neighboring one).

Moreover, it is best to measure this level in autumn, during seasonal rains, or in spring, when there are many melted snow. When building an expensive cottage, it is still worth resorting to specialized services.

Did you know? Groundwater level too high for housing construction can be determined by folk omens. It has long been noticed that reeds, horsetails, willows and alders grow in places where water layers are close to each other..

Groundwater in the basement and how to deal with it: video

Causes of water

Before you start draining the basement, you should determine the cause of the appearance of water and eliminate it as soon as possible. Only then can flooded areas be drained.

Unwanted liquid can appear in the basement for various reasons:

• nearby groundwater. This is the most common cause basement flooding;
• accumulation of precipitation after rain with a poorly established drainage system or its absence;
• ingress of melt water. This situation often develops with insufficient waterproofing of the structure and the lack of drainage to remove accumulated precipitation. This is often observed in lowlands and other places where fluid accumulates;
• cracks in the foundation due to violation of construction technology;
• breakage of pipes located in the basement;
• condensation due to poor ventilation.

How to remove water from the basement

If the basement is flooded, then you can use the following methods to eliminate it:

1. For a single pumping of unwanted fluid, you can use an inexpensive vibration pump. But it can be used if the scale of flooding is small. In this case, it is important to check that there is no debris in the water.
2. Pumping water using a drainage pump. For this purpose, you can contact the appropriate company that provides liquid pumping services, or purchase a pump and solve this problem. on your own.

The pumping method is considered more effective.

To independently remove excess fluid from the basement with a pump, you must follow the following instructions:

• a recess is made in the center of the basement and a plastic tank is installed, which plays the role of a drive. Holes are made in the body of such a tank;
• the tank is wrapped in geotextile to protect it from flooding. Fine gravel is poured to the bottom to install the pump;
• then in the tank thus prepared is placed drainage pump. The gap between it and the pit is filled with a mixture of concrete. The float located in the pump determines the required water level, and the system automatically turns on the pump to pump out the liquid. After the pumping process, the system is switched off;
• to remove unnecessary fluid from the basement, a hose or special pipes are connected to such a system.

The pump for pumping is of two types - submersible and external. When choosing submersible pump it is placed in liquid medium where it stays throughout the entire operation. External pumps are attached to the water with a housing in their lower part, while top part is on the surface.

Thus, wastewater is pumped out by the submersible part. To prevent basement flooding, appropriate measures must be taken to equip a good drainage system.

What to do: how to prevent water penetration

In order to get rid of moisture entering the basement, there are various methods, depending mainly on the cause of its occurrence.

The easiest way to eliminate the appearance Wastewater in the basement on their own - this is the arrangement of the pit. This method is inexpensive and does not require much time, so it is often used in private houses and cottages.

To properly equip the pit, you should take the following steps:

• in the center of the basement, dig a hole in the shape of a cube of about 1 m³ in volume. But it is worth considering - the larger the room, the more the pit is dug in volume;
• in the very middle of the dug hole, a recess is made in which a stainless steel bucket is placed. The earth around such a bucket is well compacted;
• lay out the dug hole with a brick, and then cover cement layer about 2-3 cm;
• on top we place a metal grill. The gap between the bars should allow the pump to pump out the liquid;
• dig small trenches in the pit and overlay with tiles to form drains.

The joints between the tiles will perform the function of drainage.

Drainage for drainage

This is more complex, but effective method to eliminate unwanted fluid from basements. It takes more material costs, and also need more strength and time. It should be noted that there are several types of foundation drainage.

DIY drainage: video

The choice of a specific drainage system depends on next moments: terrain, depth of groundwater, soil, etc.

There are three main types of drainage system, each of them has its own specifics:

1. wall. Such drainage is installed for buildings with a basement or basement. Its installation occurs immediately after construction works for the arrangement of the foundation.
2. Plastovy. This system drainage is installed at the time of digging a foundation pit for an object under construction. It has been used in the construction of slabs, so it is less often used.
3. Trench (ring). Such a drainage system can be installed on its own. It is made in the form of a trench dug in a circle along the walls of the house.

Important! The trench system is considered the most effective. The ring drainage system must be located 0.4-0.5 m deeper than the foundation level.

To make drainage for drainage, you should follow these recommendations:

• along the walls of the house we dig a trench around the width of at least 1 m 20 cm using shovels or special equipment;
• on 4 sides of the main ditch, it is necessary to install additional bends of about 5 m in length. Also, for this purpose, you can use special equipment to speed up the process. At the end of such branches, a recess is dug, which should correspond in diameter to a ring of concrete;
• geotextiles are placed along the bottom of the trench, and a corrugated pipe for drainage is laid on top of it. After 7 m are installed manholes where the drain pipe is interrupted;
• after laying the pipe, the trench is covered with rubble, and 10 cm before the foundation - with sand, then there is a layer of large rubble, about 15 cm to the ground itself, and at the end it is poured with concrete on top.

Waterproofing

To protect the house from water in the basement, waterproofing is used. Basement waterproofing is divided into two types - internal and external.

It is better to install external waterproofing during the construction of a house, because such a system for already built buildings requires much more labor and money.

In this case, you have to dig out the foundation and apply several layers of waterproofing, and then you will need to lay the soil around the outer walls in several layers - from sand, crushed stone and pour concrete on top.

Usually, during such work, a circular drainage system is installed at the same time, which still significantly increases their cost.

External waterproofing is carried out in two ways:

1. Okleyechny. It involves the use of roll materials.
2. Coating. This method uses polymer materials, as well as mastic from bitumen.

External waterproofing is the application of a coating on a prepared surface, and then a rolled building material is laid on top in several layers. It should be noted: when groundwater is close enough to the foundation, then additional protection is needed for waterproofing in the form of brickwork.

Sometimes, instead of such masonry, profiled membranes with the addition of geotextiles are used. This method reliably protects the walls from water. A special geotextile provides an empty gap between the spikes of the membrane, which acts as a channel for drains.

Important! For reliability, external waterproofing must be done 30 cm above ground level. To improve drainage, it is advisable to lay a layer of clay before pouring the concrete mixture.

External waterproofing can be installed with my own hands subject to the following order:

• on the outer wall mastic is applied first;
• roll material is laid on the mastic. It is not worth pressing hard on the roll when laying, the mastic will fix the material anyway. In order for the canvas to lie flat, it is necessary to roll it with a roller;
• then the next surface is treated with mastic and the next roll of material is applied. The rolls should overlap each other by about 10 cm, so when applied to the wall roll material it is necessary to coat with a special adhesive mixture 15 cm from the edge;
• each applied canvas is rolled with a roller, including along the seams. The order in which the rolls are placed (starting from the bottom or from the top) does not matter;
• excess material at the joints can be removed with a knife.

Internal waterproofing is mainly made of special compounds with a penetrating effect, which are best applied to fresh concrete. They protect well against moisture penetration: when they hit the porous surface of concrete, interacting with water, they contribute to the formation of crystals that fill all microcracks.

Internal waterproofing can be done using polymer cement mineral compositions which are applied to wooden, concrete and ceramic surfaces. Such formulations are simply diluted with water, and they are ready for use.

But it is worth considering that such waterproofing is not very resistant to drops. temperature regime, so it is still necessary to use elastic sealants.

In private houses, you can do the internal waterproofing of the basement with your own hands. Before this, it is necessary to drain the basement, and all walls and floors should be well cleaned of dirt.

Then the following work is done:

• all surfaces are treated with a waterproofing compound that protects against moisture;
• mastic smear corners, seams and cracks, as well as all surfaces with a layer of 2-3 cm;
• a metal mesh is installed on the walls, as well as the floor;
• the floor is poured with concrete, and the walls are also coated with a concrete mixture;
• then the walls are plastered (about 3 cm thick).

When unwanted moisture appears in your basement, you should first quickly determine the source of its occurrence and then take measures to eliminate excess moisture and prevent its occurrence. If you arrange drainage communications and waterproofing of the basement in a timely and correct manner, then it will be dry in it even during the rainiest periods.

If, during the construction of the garage, such nuances as the features of the relief were not taken into account (for example, if the garage is in a lowland or on a slope) and the level of groundwater, the waterproofing was not carried out qualitatively and the drainage system was installed, then, most likely, repairs will be required over time cellar in the garage. Read.

Repair

If it was decided to fill up the cellar in the garage, which is regularly flooded, then it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of soil composition so that subsequently the soil does not subside and water is not pushed to the surface. Read the instructions on how to make a cellar in the garage.

For backfilling the cellar, you can use the following materials:

• fine river sand (used for annual flooding of the basement in the spring by 20 - 30 cm);
• clay;
• expanded clay;
• crushed stone;
• construction scrap.

If the cellar is flooded under the very shelves, then it is better to fill it up in layers: construction debris, broken bricks, gravel and sand.

If groundwater is constantly standing in the cellar, then the best option will fall asleep in layers of clay and sand.

The universal filling material will be river sand in combination with expanded clay.

Water in the cellar - what to do?

The constant dampness of the walls in the basement, the main sign of poor quality waterproofing, and, accordingly, a signal for action, that is, the urgent repair and restoration of the garage.

Before proceeding to repair work, first of all, they dry the cellar and, accordingly, the basement of the garage.

There are two main, tested over the years, ways to dry the cellar:

• The use of a roaster. This method consists in equipping a home-made brazier from an old metal bucket in which a fire is made (the bucket is installed in the center of the room). This method is very simple, the only caveat is that you need to keep the fire going. long time. This method is very effective, since the smoke generated during the combustion of fuel destroys additionally all the mold and fungus present in the basement.
• The use of candles and pipes. This method consists in installing the pipe in such a way that one end of it is located in close proximity to the floor, and the other end of the pipe goes outside. A container with a candle is installed under the pipe, which is necessary to create forced ventilation. The structure can be removed only when the humidity drops to an acceptable level.

To arrange external drainage, it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter of the garage, forty centimeters deeper than the level of the basement floor, it is recommended to make a trench 40 centimeters wide. With a step of two meters, wells are made in the trench, into which perforated pipes wrapped with geotextiles are installed. The prepared drainage system is backfilled with soil.

Internal drainage is a network of perforated pipes mounted along the inner contour of the garage at a certain depth.

One of the options for waterproofing the cellar (basement) is the injection method. The essence of this method is to saturate the soil with special polymer resins and acrylate gels using expandable packers. But this method is quite expensive, moreover, it requires the involvement of specialists and equipment.

Waterproofing can also be done by spraying liquid rubber, instantly seizing and forming polymer membrane. This method, in combination with ventilation and insulation, will permanently save the cellar from condensation and humidity. Read the guide on how to choose a garage roof.

As a result of a violation of natural ventilation in the cellar, as well as in the presence of temperature differences, condensation forms on the walls and ceiling of the cellar. Accordingly, in order to prevent condensation from forming, it is necessary to equip natural or forced ventilation, as well as insulate the cellar ceiling.

Accordingly, a set of measures taken to equip the hood in the cellar will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the cellar and significantly reduce the level of humidity.

High humidity in basement garage provides ideal conditions for the formation and reproduction of mold and fungus.

Moldy fungi can live on any surface from absolutely different material, be it concrete, wood, stone or paint, and consequently have a damaging effect on the finish as well as the structural elements of the garage (for example, rotted floor beams can lead to the collapse of the garage floor).

One of the popular ways to combat the fungus is to treat infected surfaces with a 40% formalin solution.

To combat mold in the cellar of the garage, you can use by special means, which have antiseptic properties, improve ventilation, as well as update the waterproofing of the cellar.

Hood

One of the main conditions for creating an optimal microclimate in the cellar is the arrangement supply and exhaust system ventilation, which can be either natural or forced. The ventilation system can be equipped either with two pipes (exhaust and supply), which are installed in two opposite corners of the cellar. This system is ideal for small cellars. The exhaust pipe is installed at a height of 18 mm from the floor, the other end of the pipe must protrude approximately 400 mm outside. The supply pipe is located at a distance of 300 mm from the floor, and the other end of the pipe is approximately 300 mm outward. Pipes can be made of asbestos concrete or PVC. Forced ventilation is carried out due to the equipment of an electric fan; forced ventilation has no other differences from natural ventilation.

How to insulate?

Properly selected thermal insulation material and well-conducted insulation of the garage floor with a cellar should prevent condensation in that very cellar. The best option, the most suitable for warming according to their technical specifications, will be extruded polystyrene foam. Expanded polystyrene sheets are placed in the space between the slats, pre-mounted crates. Plywood sheets can be fixed on top of the insulation.

Video

The appearance of mold or condensation on the walls and ceiling of the cellar is the first sign high humidity. This means that the sooner measures are taken to identify the cause of dampness in the cellar and measures to eliminate it, the more will be saved. financial resources, which may be needed, if no measures are taken, to restore the garage foundation and cellar.