Glue for wood - tips for choosing and using. How to choose glue for gluing wood: types and features What is a good wood glue

Site arrangement 17.06.2019

Site arrangement

Very often, during a variety of repair work at home or at personal plot may face the need for high-quality bonding of various wooden elements between themselves. Or with a more complex problem - the need to glue wooden elements with other materials. The age-old question arises - how can this be done, and what glue is the best better fit to solve this problem?

Moreover, presented in modern market the variety of adhesive compositions of the most different price categories introduces the buyer into additional confusion - after all, you want to do everything reliably, without overpaying "for the brand". So in fact, such a diverse assortment only makes it difficult to choose.

So before you go shopping building materials, you need to thoroughly study the main characteristics of various adhesive compositions, decide what exactly you need to glue, clearly limit your financial capabilities in resolving this issue and understand what you will need to purchase. Because, you yourself perfectly understand, any seller is interested in selling you the most expensive product - and if you yourself understand what you need, then the probability of losing money on overpayment will be much less.

Range various kinds glue

Varieties of glue and the main characteristics of the chemical composition

The characteristics that mainly determine the purpose for which glue is used include the following:

Drying period - the time that must pass from the moment the adhesive applied to the surface of the two elements hardens and it will be possible to make sure that the parts are firmly connected and do not stick.
Adhesion density is a value determined by the force that must be applied in order to detach two glued surfaces.
Moisture resistance - is determined by the level of humidity at which the adhesive begins to lose its properties.

In the vast majority of cases, when working with wood, the following types of glue are used:

glue BF;
epoxy adhesive;
casein glue;
hot glue for wood (resistant to high temperatures);
polyurethane glue for wood;
polyvinyl acetate glue (PVA);
syndeticone glue;
glue "Moment" (a variety intended for wood);

One of the most reliable compounds, but it is very toxic. Poisonous even its evaporation, which occurs when heated.

The main criteria according to which the adhesive composition is evaluated

Two things are of the greatest importance when choosing an adhesive - this is its chemical composition and quality (which, in turn, is determined by the three characteristics mentioned above). Great importance also has the nature of the work being done. You must admit that it is one thing to glue furniture that will be inside the room all the time, a completely different moment is the implementation facade works or gluing any elements that are constantly on the street. In the second option, it is clear that the glue will need to be much more stable.

It is necessary to bond with increased strength, resistant to high humidity and light, and in addition - immunity to various unfavorable factors of biological origin.
What is more interesting is that it is necessary to take into account not only the nature of the work performed and the place of their implementation, but also what types of wood will need to be glued together. This is due to the fact that it matters when choosing adhesive composition the moment whether the elements consisting of the same type of wood or from different ones will be glued together.

Thus, PVA glue is applied to the prepared adhesive surface. It is the application of a thin strip that allows you to connect even the most small parts. However, in this way it will be possible to glue only wood with wood.

That is, the main goal for any adhesive composition is the formation of an inseparable connection of parts. chemical base any adhesive is a binder or adhesive component, and in addition - a solvent or accumulator. In that case, if technological process provides for instant hardening, it will be necessary to include a special crystalloid hardener in the adhesive. And if it is necessary to preserve the properties of the adhesive for a certain amount of time, a stabilizer is needed. There are some types of glue, which include plasticizers - thanks to this, the adhesive composition becomes resistant to low temperatures and high humidity. In principle, each package of glue indicates its composition and find suitable composition, clearly understanding what you need and what each component gives will not be anything complicated.

AT this case the turner violates safety regulations - he is going to work with a highly toxic compound and did not even bother to put on gloves. This can lead to burns or allergic dermatitis.

Below will be presented the characteristics of the physico-chemical composition of the most commonly used adhesive mixtures.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate adhesive)

Everyone who has ever worked with wood remembers this container - PVA has been used for more than 100 years and does not lose its relevance.

Ideal for reliable bonding of parts made of all types of wood. It is completely non-toxic, harmless to health. It can be applied to the surface to be bonded, regardless of its configuration, in addition - this composition is characterized by long period storage, designed for maximum load up to 60 kg per 1 cm².

Technical characteristics of PVA glue: in the vast majority of cases it is used for gluing furniture, various parts from any kind of wood. The only drawback of this glue is that it has a low moisture resistance index. That is, with its help it will not be possible to glue wooden surfaces that are on the street. In addition, the use of PVA is not recommended if it is necessary to glue wood with any other materials.

Preparation of the adhesive surface - in this case, the surface of glass and wood will be glued using a special adhesive BF-2

Glue from the BF series specially designed for wood

This composition, unlike PVA glue, allows you to reliably connect not only elements of wood of various species, but also glue wood with other materials - glass, plastic. To connect wood and metal, it is necessary to use BF glue of the BF-4 and BF-2 series. It should be noted that BF-2, which has good resistance to high humidity and temperature, is best used for internal works, and BF-4 - for outdoor.

In order to be able to glue this part, it will still need to be processed with a special abrasive tool.

However, in order to achieve a truly reliable connection when using this adhesive, a certain method of its use must be followed.

Glue is applied in several layers:

the first layer (otherwise referred to as the primer) must be allowed to dry for one hour at room temperature or 15 minutes in special thermal ovens;
and the second (final) layer, applied already on the dried first layer, will take only a few minutes to harden.

After that, the glued elements are connected to each other, allowing the glue to dry and harden completely. The gluing of wood, made in this case, is able to withstand high loads- it will be like an fusion.

In this case, the glue was not chosen correctly - excessive pressure was applied to the joint, and the glued surface simply could not stand it.

Glue thermostatic wood of various species - a reliable and expensive option for gluing wood

As it becomes clear from the name itself, the use of this glue is indicated in cases where it is necessary to carry out work in conditions elevated temperature air. Its application is carried out only with the help of special "guns" that provide a thin stream of glue.

Another important advantage of this technique is the ability to glue even the smallest wooden products. This adhesive composition hardens in just a few seconds. Bonding wood with this composition is one of the most reliable.

In this case, wood parts are to be glued, and every mm of this part is important. So the machining is done on a lathe

General rules that must be observed when gluing together both wooden elements and wood with other materials

Regardless of which type of adhesive is used, these rules will be the same in all cases and following them guarantees a high-quality, reliable connection of surfaces:

Pay attention to this craft - in this case, the connection of rounded parts was made using heat-resistant glue. It is very difficult to do this because small area surface contact

Adhesive that is suitable for both joining wooden surfaces, and for joining glass and wood. Moisture resistant, used for outdoor

But this is a special mounting adhesive. It is suitable not only for bonding wood and glass, but also stone, iron and organic glass. Hardens very quickly, not susceptible to moisture, resistant to high temperatures

Conclusion

At right choice glue and fulfilling all the requirements for carrying out these works, it becomes possible to obtain strength indicators at the place of gluing higher than the wood itself. In principle, this can be done even when using the simplest PVA.

So there is no point in acquiring any special compositions - any surface can be securely connected using the simplest glue, which is always on sale at an affordable price. It is only necessary to understand what exactly needs to be glued and to observe safety measures during work aimed at connecting the spirit of surfaces through an adhesive composition.

bryansk 11-01-2013 11:37

Wood - hornbeam.
Here, in fact, the question is - what kind of glue to use?

unname22 11-01-2013 12:55

Epoxy resin

bryansk 11-01-2013 13:15

The first thing I thought about. Maybe there are some others, namely wood glues, which are better?

unname22 11-01-2013 13:24

Yes, epoxy resin

KM 11-01-2013 13:36

cue? There will be no former strength and epoxy will not work. You can try to clean the joint from glue residue to bare wood and try using wood glue. For example, based on PVA. Glue under pressure.

Karbofos 11-01-2013 13:42

Normal epoxy, e.g. regular ed-20+PEPA
you still need to take care of the streaks on the surface
it is important to thoroughly clean the surfaces before gluing

Karbofos 11-01-2013 13:43

There will be no former strength and epoxy will not work.

Will be. go

KM 11-01-2013 13:49

Karbofos 11-01-2013 14:06

quote: Originally posted by KM:

If the outside is wrapped with tape soaked in glue.

No. Epoxy resin (not poxypol but ed-20 of course) impregnates wood and creates a structure stronger than wood.
That is, both the seam and the place around it will be stronger than the rest of the mass of the tree.
It won't work if the cue was boiled in oil, but I doubt it.

sergeant 11-01-2013 14:19

impregnated with cyanoacrylate will not work ?? (Super glue)

Karbofos 11-01-2013 14:44

it is not very clear in the photo what is there .. soaking with cyanocrylate will not work ?? (Super glue)

When impregnated with a tree, it quickly polymerizes. Most likely this will happen before it is applied to the entire seam.

sergeant 11-01-2013 14:47

glued, diluted with acetone cyanoacrylate, soaked, dried, polished.
soaked again. polished.

Nikofar 11-01-2013 14:59

So, Andryushka, he broke his branded glue ...
So so. The technology of gluing stacked cues for Russian billiards involves the use of a mixture of fish and bone glue. To repair the cue, they must be used. But it is better to go to a workshop where cues are made. Otherwise, you can just spoil the expensive stray for a piece of bucks worth.

bryansk 11-01-2013 15:04

Uncle Kolya, a stray worth under 2 bucks. Contact the workshop - I turned. The stick will be taken to Moscow time, they will do it there. They want 4 pieces of rub. Firstly, I don’t understand the pricing, and secondly - well, I figured it out like that - I’ll try to glue it myself, and if it breaks, I’ll already give it back.
Fish and bone glue - I definitely won't find it. So I'll try epoxy.

bryansk 11-01-2013 15:05

quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
It's not very clear in the photo what's going on.
impregnated with cyanoacrylate will not work ?? (Super glue)

In the photo - the place when it was still intact. There, this stick, called the shaft, is made of two pieces connected by a "crown". Well, that is, it’s like if two schematic images of the crown are turned with horns to each other - that’s such a connection there.

Karbofos 11-01-2013 15:13

So I'll try epoxy.

well, essno resin and hardener strictly on the scales and all that

unname22 11-01-2013 15:21

Bone glue is like normal gelatin.

bryansk 11-01-2013 15:21

quote: Originally posted by Karbofos:

Practice on something simpler first.
I see two options how to ruin the cue
1 resin drips that will be very difficult to remove
2 perhaps a border around the seam will appear darker than the rest of the wood
well, essno resin and hardener strictly on the scales and all that

Resin streaks - rub off when they come out. Then, when the glue has set, this place is cleaned first with a zero, then with a 2000th (?) sandpaper. Then this place is treated with hot wax and polished. Here I have some experience. The border, even if it appears - on the drum. The cue still wiggles with his hands and against the general background this border will not be visible. And even if it happens, which is unlikely, it is not scary at all.

fiberboard 11-01-2013 15:25

Once upon a time, a seam on PVA turned out to be stronger than the material. Try to find normal

mukdiver 11-01-2013 15:38

Remove old glue

Nikofar 11-01-2013 15:43

Workshop of Alexei Eremin: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gg8e2J30P4w

PS. Andrey, how did you manage to break a cue for two bucks?

I have a much cheaper cue set made of yew and rosewood. And I don't break it. And you managed to break a cue from a hornbeam ...

Nikofar 11-01-2013 15:47

Andrey, I think this is not particularly interesting for us, the masters of Russian billiards (), but the rest of the link may be useful: http://alekseyeremin.ru/blog/sacral/sekrety-mastera-1

bryansk 11-01-2013 16:02

how-how .... Dick knows, I don't remember. Strongly "cheerful" was. But there, it seems, some kind of constructive defect was present initially, it seems that they glued it together rather poorly. Or maybe I tried to break it ... I don’t remember this moment well. I remember that I was standing and looking at the two halves in my hands.
The cue is not from a hornbeam - only a shaft is made from a hornbeam. Turnyak there is a whole package of valuable breeds.

Mower_man 11-01-2013 16:07

If the wood is not impregnated with old glue along the connector, I think that Tybond of the D2-D4 series will do just fine, the seam should be conditionally flexible, since the impact loads on the cue from the balls, as I understand it, are very sickly, and the epoxy is harsh.

guccio 11-01-2013 16:38

The cue has some qualities that dampen the blow. I think epoxy does not have these qualities and sooner or later it will break along the seam. About two years ago, Solar PVA in a yellow tube proved to be the best, in gluing two trees.

Katzenelenbogen 11-01-2013 17:25

Father Michael 11-01-2013 17:28

quote: Originally posted by bryansk:
There is, let's say, a wooden cylinder, approximately 18 mm in diameter, consisting of two parts, which were attached to each other with a "crown" washed down with glue. At one fine moment, he was taken for a break, and the connection broke up. He drank himself - did not suffer. It is necessary to glue something, and preferably so that there would be no breakdowns in the future.
Wood - hornbeam.
Here, in fact, the question is - what kind of glue to use?
In the photo, the place of the collapsed gluing is highlighted.

Andrey, isn’t it easier to turn to the craftsmen for making and cues? They certainly have the recipe for the glue and the glue itself. And easier option, and most importantly - more reliable. You yourself understand that even a 1 mm stick will go on a spree at the place of the incorrect docking, and hello - cue, how a rifle with a curved barrel will be - YOU CAN'T SEE IT, YOU CAN SHOOT. BUT IT DOESN'T FIT.
Maybe it's better not to risk it? Your stick is not simple, not a serial Kvitek, but a good handmade master work

mukdiver 11-01-2013 17:31

quote: Andrey, isn’t it easier to turn to the craftsmen for making and cues?

Toad...

guccio 11-01-2013 18:18

And if there is such a conversation among billiard lovers, I’ll ask if Bryansk doesn’t mind.

Is there a master proven in Moscow, to whom you can remake / give a stick for repair, namely: they gave a cue, the master from Nizhny Novgorod did it, the master is good, but apparently he cheated. Didn't look at purchase, shaft with bend. A year has hung, but it has not stretched out. The billiard room was closed, and the contacts of the master were lost. Of course, you can search and ask, but it's troublesome, 400 km all the same.

Nikofar 11-01-2013 20:17

I want to know if it can be fixed?

With respect, Nicholai.

Nikofar 11-01-2013 20:32

By the way, Andriukh, who is a topikstarter, you will be passing through Moscow, take a broken cue with you and call me. You have my phone. I'll glue your cue for you.
And I'll give you mine for a while so that you can play good cue. True, I have it "zadryha", thin and "bottle" in the shaft. Do you have a "smooth cone"? I still wonder how you play them...

guccio 11-01-2013 20:36

Dmitry, according to your profile, are you in Moscow?
I am a little engaged in the restoration of all sorts of different things, including the "editing" of billiard cues. If you just need to fix the shaft bend, I can help. There is nothing difficult in editing the bend, I even have a tool for this. The procedure itself takes from several days to a couple of weeks. If you wish, please PM me your contact number. I am ready to perform this work free of charge or purely for a symbolic reward on your part.
With respect, Nicholai.

Thank you very much for responding! The cue is hanging in the office, I'll pick it up tomorrow, I'll take a closer look so that once again Do not disturb you (the last time I examined it on the topic of bending 3 months ago, before that it hung for a year and "did not stretch"). If everything remains the same, then I will immediately drop your phone in a PM and agree on a meeting-conditions.

natalia_vw 11-01-2013 22:53

yes .. I myself would not risk gluing for 2 pieces, I would give it to the workshop without looking or to Nikofar chtoli. most happened to glue on the eye decorative ornament brought from Israel and there they initially offered it on double-sided tape, fell off and split, glued the seams with superglue, the seams are not visible, but the cow itself was glued to the door only tightly on liquid nails .. on other glues it slipped three times for me .. no, I would immediately to the workshop)) without looking at 4 thousand rubles.

unname22 11-01-2013 23:19

natalia_vw
Eyes afraid...
Masters are the same people

Tsepyatych 11-01-2013 23:21

"Cleiberite" is very good on wood, I have a friend on it musical instruments builds. Only the details need to be pressed very hard - the composition foams

bryansk 12-01-2013 11:30

quote: Originally posted by Nikofar:

And I'll give you my time

Nikolai Fedorovich, thanks for your concern, I now have three sticks of my own

bryansk 12-01-2013 11:32

quote: Originally posted by Katzenelenbogen:
Have a custom-made stick and not know who to give it to repair?

And how did he manage to do something, I suppose the partner performed under the blow, and did not endure the zealous?

I know who to give. Just for gluing a stick 4 mowers - somehow it's not clear. There is nothing complicated, the whole operation is 5 minutes.

bryansk 12-01-2013 11:33

quote: Originally posted by Father Michael:
Andrey, isn’t it easier to turn to the craftsmen for making and cues?

They are not in Bryansk, it is necessary to shove them to Moscow time.

bryansk 12-01-2013 11:36

Anyway, last night I came to the billiard room - there is my cue, whole. I died * ate a boy, I ask - HOW? The man laughs - you have a gift for New Year. Already brought, glued the bastards So sorry for the false alarm I didn’t know that I didn’t need to glue anything anymore.

bryansk 12-01-2013 11:43

quote: Originally posted by Guccio:
And if there is such a conversation among billiard lovers, I’ll ask if Bryansk doesn’t mind.
I want to know if it can be fixed?

Nikofar 12-01-2013 12:31

quote: Originally posted by bryansk:

Can. You heat over the gas and bend in the right direction. Do not overdo it.

So, he took it and broke off the whole "gesheft" for me ...
In general, this operation is done by clamping the cue in a special fixture, such as a clamp, straightening the side bend with an adjusting screw and warming up the bend with an industrial hair dryer. Then they leave it in such a straightened form for several days or weeks so that the tree takes the desired shape. Nothing complicated and allows you to very accurately restore the geometry of a warped cue. This is how I straightened my pool cue when I had it slightly bent, from the fact that I kept it in the trunk of a car all winter.

Tsepyatych 12-01-2013 12:37

And in general, the difficulties in billiards, in my opinion, begin when it is necessary for the balls to fall into the pockets. The rest is usually

Nikofar 12-01-2013 12:43

quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatych:

Difficulties in billiards, in my opinion, begin when it is necessary for the balls to fall into the pockets.

And there is nothing difficult in this.
Once, at a billiards tournament, one of the observers of the game made a remark to Schwarzenegger:
- Excuse me, Arnold, but there is no pocket in the place where you are aiming!
- It will be.

Tsepyatych 12-01-2013 12:54

quote: SchA will

Who plays what...

guccio 12-01-2013 17:07

quote: Originally posted by bryansk:
Can. You heat over the gas and bend in the right direction. Do not overdo it.
And in general - do not bathe. If the bend is not a propeller, but just walks a little on the table when rolling - hammer the sexual hue into this matter. Doesn't affect the game.
It's buulshit. I have a friend who made a snooker cue from a Russian cue. Houses. With the help of two drills and some mother. Stitched, then polished. When I found out about this, I freaked out. But - the stick turned out to be smooth, excellent.
And you say to glue the stick to the master to give ....

Not a propeller, but walking, at least it was noticeable. I'll pick it up tomorrow and take a look. I was offered to heat and fix with a building hair dryer. But somehow I'm afraid to spoil such a delicate thing

Nikofar 12-01-2013 17:20

quote: Originally posted by Guccio:

But somehow I'm afraid to spoil such a delicate thing

This is a familiar job for me and I guarantee that I will not ruin the shaft of your cue.

alex1 13-01-2013 16:54

At one time, I broke the butt of Izh-27 / finished off a hare /. I glued it with epoxy. Just do not fly with the components - I had to put the butt into the oven for polymerization.

guccio 14-01-2013 12:33

quote: Originally posted by Nikofar:

My repair offer stands.
This is a familiar job for me and I guarantee that I will not ruin the shaft of your cue.

Nikolai, I sent you a letter in the PM, please check.

Nikofar 20-01-2013 02:08

Dmitry, conjured over your cue. The cue is valid, professional, in my opinion an amateur.
Kazan and Belarusian masters do such things.
The curvature on the shaft is about 0.15 hundredths of a mm, the turnnyak is straight.
In addition, in my opinion, there is a small axial mass imbalance on the shaft, because the curvature is simply not determined by eye, I found it only with a type-setting thickness gauge on the calibration plate.
Now I clamped your cue (shaft) in the wyma and set the excess bend to a couple of millimeters plus. On Sunday evening I will remove the bending pressure and check the results of the edit. You may have to keep it in the wyme longer, about ten days, approximately, gradually reducing the forced bending to zero.

guccio 20-01-2013 10:09

A competent master did, before my case, I did not hear any complaints about his work.
As you and I decided at the meeting, there is no hurry, there is no hurry, let it be corrected for at least a month, of course, if it does not cause you any inconvenience!

For carpentry needs use a fairly wide range adhesive materials: different types of PVA adhesives, polyurethane compounds, epoxy resin, contact adhesive, etc. Selection of the most suitable option adhesives are produced with a focus on the following project features:

characteristics of the tree itself (oiliness, level of adhesion, etc.);
features of the loads that will fall on the seam (including shock and vibration);
conditions in which the product will be used (humidity, temperature changes, exposure to moisture).

You can talk about the working properties and areas of application of the main types of wood adhesives.

How to properly glue wood?

Joiner's adhesives are applied in a thin uniform layer on both surfaces to be joined. The only exception is the technology of gluing wood with polyurethane glue: in this case, the material is applied to one of the surfaces, and the second is moistened (slightly moistened with water). Applying the composition in excess does not improve the quality of gluing in any way, but only leads to waste of material and smearing of surfaces with squeezed out excesses (by the way, this adds a headache at the finishing stage).

When gluing the thorn-groove joint, only the cheeks of the thorn and the walls of the groove are lubricated with glue. This method of gluing provides the most reliable connection: the joint is glued "tightly" not inferior in strength to the surrounding wood. Applying compound to the hangers does not improve the quality of the bonding, all you get in this case is just the appearance of excess and a waste of time, which is especially valuable with a complex multi-piece assembly.

What is the best way to apply glue?

It is important to distribute the glue over the surface of the tree in an even layer, so you should not be limited to simply squeezing strips out of a bottle or tube. For smearing, a small brush with stiff bristles is usually used. But the most effective assistant will be the simplest Toothbrush: bristles of optimal stiffness gently and evenly distribute the composition over the surface, providing an optimal adhesive layer.

Is it necessary to degrease surfaces and what is the best way to do it?

When gluing wood to wood, there is no need to degrease the surfaces. Although in some cases, for example, when working with oily rocks, this will not be superfluous. In this case, it is advisable to degrease the tree before gluing with white spirit.

When gluing dissimilar elements: wood with plastic, glass and other materials with low adhesive properties, the degreasing process is more important. Degrease only one of the surfaces, wiping it with white spirit.

How tight should the clamps be?

It is important to understand that the bonding strength does not depend on the amount of clamping force, but on the quality of the surface treatment and their accuracy of fit. It is not necessary to tighten the clamps strongly. A small amount of adhesive seeping through is a sure sign that sufficient down pressure has been created.

The use of clamps is not always advisable. When it comes to gluing small crafts, for example, wooden boxes and boxes for tightening, you can use adhesive tape or masking tape, but, again, subject to well-fitted joints.

How long does wood glue dry?

We spoke in detail about the working properties of the main types of wood adhesives in. In addition to what has already been said, we will add that high temperature, dry wood and low air humidity are factors that speed up the drying process of the glue. cold temperature, high humidity environment and the wood itself, on the contrary, slow down drying.

How to clean the surface of dried glue?

It makes sense to remove excess glue from the surface of the wood either while it is completely fresh, or when it has completely hardened. By rushing to sand the wetted area of the wood, you are likely to get an even greater aesthetic defect when the fibers deformed by sanding dry. Hardened glue is cleaned by manual grinding (along the fibers) or cut off with a chisel.

Before application decorative finishes check if there are any soiled spots on the product. Otherwise, traces of dried glue will appear under finishing composition. For more effective detection of defects, wipe the surface of the wood with a cloth soaked in white spirit.

Professional tricks for flawless bonding

A tape clamp is an excellent assistant in matters of gluing on a mustache. This clamp evenly distributes pressure on all corner connections, guaranteeing perfect gluing without corner deformation and other defects. The absence of a tape clamp is no reason to refuse the ideal gluing of mustache joints. When gluing large surfaces at home, it is advisable to use a gear distributor. If desired, it will not be difficult to make it with your own hands, for example, from an unnecessary plastic card. Use masking tape to protect the surface from extruded adhesive. Plastic covers used as gaskets will prevent unpleasant surprises in the form of dents in the fixation points. Ribbon and quick clamp will become your assistants when gluing dimensional projects at home.

There are many various types wood glue. Each of them differs in terms of density, drying time, moisture resistance, resistance to stress, etc. At the same time, each type of glue has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most often, when working with wood, specialists use the following types of glue:

Polyvinyl acetate glue (PVA).
Adhesives that belong to the BF series.
Syndeticone glue.
Heat resistant adhesive.
Epoxy adhesive.
Polyurethane.
Paste glue.
Epoxy adhesive.

PVA glue

Most experts note that this is an excellent option for wood glue.

It has a number of significant advantages:

PVA glue does not harm the human body, because it contains no toxins.
It is capable of withstanding heavy loads.
Over time, it does not deteriorate and does not lose its properties.
The glue is easy to use.
After 20 minutes, the glued objects are ready for use.

Advice. It is best to leave the glued materials undisturbed during the day. This will make them stronger.

This type of glue is suitable for any type of wood, so it is very often used in the furniture production process.

Attention! PVA glue has serious shortcoming- it is not resistant to moisture, so it should not be used when gluing those items that are constantly exposed to water.

Glue included in the BF series

Most often, when working with wooden materials, they use BF 2 and 4 glue. It is excellent not only for connecting wooden objects to each other, but also with metal, plastic, glass and other materials.

Advice. It is best to use BF 2 glue for indoor work. It is resistant to moisture and heat. BF-4 is ideal for outdoor work, because it has good elasticity and is also resistant to low temperatures.

Initially, you need to apply a primer layer, which dries spontaneously for an hour. Sometimes special ovens are used for this, in which the glue dries for 15 minutes. After that, it is necessary to apply a second layer, which must then dry completely.

To achieve the best density, use a thermostat or a special oven.

Epoxy adhesive

This adhesive contains resins and hardeners. When using it, it is very important to follow the proportions that are indicated in the instructions.

Before using the adhesive, it must be thoroughly mixed for several minutes. After that, a thin layer must be applied to the surface and gently pressed to connect them together.

This type of glue is universal, durable, moisture resistant and very resistant to heavy loads. That is why it is used for gluing not only wood, but also other materials.

It should be used very carefully, if it comes into contact with the skin, it can cause irritation.

Heat Resistant Adhesive

Note that this type of glue is sold in special rods, for the use of which you need to have a glue gun.

This is very convenient option for working with small elements, because thanks to the gun, the glue is applied in a thin layer. Its significant advantage lies in the fact that it freezes in a matter of seconds. This adhesive is very resistant to high temperatures.

Joiner's glue for wood

Initially, this glue is sold in dry form. For use, it must be diluted with water and insisted for at least six hours. When the glue swells, then it is ready to go. After that, the water must be drained, and the residue heated in a water bath. This will help get rid of excess lumps.

In no case should the glue be brought to a boil.

The final temperature of the adhesive before use should be no more than 50 degrees. The glue dries for at least six hours. Remember that glue loses its properties when exposed to moisture, so wet wood is best glued with another glue.

Syndeticone glue

Most often it is used when gluing wood with other material. This is a very strong adhesive that does not lose its properties under the influence of external factors. It must swell before use. This process takes at least a day.

Polyurethane adhesive for wood

This is one of the most common types. And this is not strange, because it is very resistant to stress, does not lose its properties under the influence of external factors. Ideal for gluing hard wood.

casein glue

Most often used when gluing wood with paper, cardboard, fabric and leather. Its advantage is that it is very resistant to water. It takes at least six hours to harden. Main disadvantage- leaves traces.

paste glue

Very often it is used for priming and puttying. wooden materials, when gluing wood together.

There are many varieties of glue, each of which is of high quality in its field. The choice of type of glue depends on the type of wood and the further purpose of the material.

The choice of glue for wood - video

Properly selected glue for furniture significantly extends the life of the headset or its individual elements.

With this tool, you can restore damaged parts, improve appearance, to return the former functionality of cabinets, sofas, etc. In addition, the adhesive must meet the following requirements:

strength, reliability - after all, the duration of operation depends on this;
safety - complete absence (especially trichloroethane) or minimal content of toxic substances;
durability - the dried adhesive layer must retain its structure, not dry out, not crumble under the influence of external factors (temperature, humidity).

Another important parameter when buying an adhesive is its cost. For small jobs, you can purchase a more expensive option. However, high cost is not always a guarantee of adequate quality. In this case, it is better to pay attention to the properties of the product, to choose the composition that is best suited for a particular material.

Varieties

quick-drying adhesive bonds wood surfaces instantly

There are several types of adhesive mixtures, which differ depending on the purpose. Each of them has high drying strength. A certain type of adhesive is selected, as a rule, by composition. Distinguish:

Glue on water based(animal, PVA). The tool reliably fixes fabric surfaces, foam rubber, varieties of non-woven fibers.

PVA glue is perfect for gluing foam rubber

When working with this type of material, you can not use any other type of adhesives, except for PVA. They can be not only ineffective, but also capable of damaging the surface. For example, liquid super glue instantly corrodes the fabric base.

Universal option - PVA, hot melt adhesive. Subject to right technology gluing provides durability of fixing for a long time.
Joiner's glue for furniture (resorptive). The base contains aliphatic resins. It is used for gluing wooden surfaces, including outdoor furniture.
Contact furniture adhesive (based on synthetic rubber, hot-melt adhesive, high-strength PVA). It is used in the repair and restoration work with home, outdoor furniture. It seizes quickly, but you can use the item for its intended purpose after a day.

uniform adhesive application on PVC sheet

According to the principle of hardening, all adhesives for furniture are divided into groups:

quick-drying (drying) - it is enough to leave the glued elements in the air (PVA), they will firmly stick to each other;
thermoplastic (hot-melt adhesive) - produced in the form of cartridges, granules, blocks, rods, activation of fixing properties requires exposure to temperature (the composition passes from a solid state to a liquid);
thermosetting (BF) - the adhesive seam is formed when the composition hardens under the influence of elevated temperatures.

The last group of furniture adhesives according to the number of ingredients are divided into:

one-component - sold ready-made;
multicomponent - as a rule, they are mixed immediately before application.

thermoplastic adhesive

Based on the origin of the main ingredient, there is:

organic;
organoelement;
inorganic adhesive mixture.

Depending on the form of release, the following types of adhesive compositions are presented on the building materials market:

liquid;
dry;
solid.

Furniture adhesive containing a solvent (cyclohexane, acetone, hydrocarbon compounds, etc.) quickly hardens due to the evaporation of volatile substances. Water-based products require a longer bonding time.

Properties

for tight gluing of the surfaces of the bars, they are clamped with a clamp

To ensure maximum strength, reliability of joints, the adhesive seam must be made with a product with optimal composition. Ingredients should be selected taking into account the following parameters:

resistance to temperature stress (use of objects outdoors under the open sun, near heating appliances, gas, electric stoves);
strength under weight load (seats of sofas, chairs, table legs, shelves in cabinets, other elements that can withstand the weight of objects);
vibration resistance - furniture located in close proximity to washing machines, generators, other working equipment;
chemical resistance - refers to those elements that are supposed to be washed frequently with products household chemicals(kitchen, bath, toilet).

Technical parameters of thermoplastic adhesives for furniture:

the value of the melting point is within 80-100 o C;
the working temperature of the hot melt adhesive is 120-200 about C;
hardening period - from 5 to 40 seconds, depending on the composition.

Hot melt adhesive does not contain active (highly volatile) solvents. To firmly fix the surfaces, they must be pressed against each other, hold for some time (until the primary solidification of the adhesive joint). Reliability of pasting is provided with the resins which are a part, rosin, synthetic rubber. Some options contain a small amount of volatile solvents, which reduces the setting time of the mixture.

liquid glue in tubes for gluing fiberboard surfaces

Durable water-based adhesives sometimes require the treated surfaces to be placed under a press. This provides better bonding of the layers, increases the reliability of the adhesive seam.

The quality of bonding depends not only on the properties of the adhesive, but also on the correct preparation of the surface.

For example, porous materials such as plywood, wood, chipboard must be pre-dried and cleaned. A high percentage of moisture can increase the setting period of the furniture adhesive, reduce the strength of the adhesive joint.

Application

Glue for furniture must be selected not only taking into account the type of material to be glued, the load exerted, external conditions. Do not forget about the ease of application.

applying adhesive to plywood boards

Hot melt adhesive will fix furniture edges (PVC, melamine, etc.). It is applied with a gun, inside which the adhesive composition is melted to a liquid state.
Animal glue, which is undeservedly considered an outdated option, can be used when gluing plywood. The inconvenience of use lies in the fact that the granules must be dissolved in water at a high temperature (in a glue cooker). The resulting seam can be melted down, fasten the plywood with it again after many years.
Contact types of adhesives for furniture on a polymer (rubber, butadilene-styrene) basis - best option at restoration work with soft upholstery, connections of a fabric base, wood, leather, plastic parts. glue line elastic enough, resistant to temperature and humidity.
A subspecies of contact furniture adhesives is acrylic, which is based on latex. Environmental friendliness, high strength characteristics of this product make it possible to use it to work with children's furniture made of wood, plastic, chipboard, and other materials.
PVA furniture glue (Luxe type) is intended for gluing chipboard, veneer, pressed cardboard, laminate, plywood, wood. Forms a strong film of increased elasticity.
Epoxy (two-component) is a universal option for fixing any surfaces. It can be used to fill cracks and gaps.
Rubber glue for furniture (brand 4010) is the best option for attaching metal, wood, fabric, rubberized fragments to the base. Possesses the increased elasticity, resistance to external influence.
BF (phenolic butyral), Rapid 100 are used for fixing the foam layer to the surface.

With development chemical industry the assortment, variety of adhesive mixtures is increasing. At the same time, the quality of popular and widely used furniture adhesives used for restoration and repair is improving.