Tree transplant. The easy way to transplant trees

Photo 1. A 6.5-meter large crop was selected for transplanting to a new location.

Nothing can beautify a yard like beautiful, properly shaped trees. But if you start with seedlings, it may take a generation or more to reach full bloom. Of course, you will enjoy their growth period, but the real shade in summer and the balanced visual effect of your yard will take a long time. In such cases, Lesmaster offers transplantation of large-sized trees (Photo 1).

Large trees are mature trees (from about three to fifteen meters in height) that are used for planting for economic and decorative purposes (Photo 1). Trees, in particular, large trees, are an indispensable element of gardening. Plants with a developed crown are considered large even if their height is below the minimum height indicated.

Krupnomer has a root system located in large volume soil, sometimes the weight of this soil for especially large trees can reach 6.5 tons, but, as a rule, for trees from the nursery it is less.

a clear indicator proper development mature tree is well balanced uniform system branches.

Large crops should be transplanted because:

planting such trees on the site creates a visual feeling of a harmonious, balanced, coordinated landscape.

with the help of large-sized, you can quickly organize a comfortable area for living.

Their transplantation allows you to avoid waiting for decades and makes it possible to correlate the construction time of the house with the visual and functional organization of the yard space.

Large-sized transplant technology

Photo 2. Before digging, tree branches are carefully tied up.

Landing of large-sized plants can be carried out throughout the year, subject to certain requirements.- carrying out protective measures and ensuring proper care. This allows you to green the territory at any time of the year and plan the timing of the work.

The most common winter planting of large-sized plants (from the end of November to March), as the plants are at rest, as a result of which it is easy to transport large-sized plants together with the planting ball.

An adult tree - a large-sized tree - is specially prepared for digging and for planting (Photo 2). You need to understand that just dug in the forest a big tree cannot be considered a large size in terms of technology, despite its large size.

A qualitative characteristic of a large-sized plant is its good survival in a new place.

This is exactly what the main efforts of nurseries preparing large-sized ones are aimed at. During their preparation root system the tree is cut off - the lateral roots are removed, the plants are fed special preparations, allowing in the root zone to form conditions for the enhanced development of lateral roots.

The main stages of landing large-sized:

Photo 3. Digging large-sized with the help of a special machine - rooter.

Photo 4. The tree is ready to be transported to a new planting site.

1. Selection of planting material. When choosing planting material growth conditions, soil composition, the presence of diseases and pests are taken into account - only healthy specimens are selected. For transplantation, trees of Moscow region origin are mainly selected, but for some rare species, delivery from the Smolensk, Tula, Kaluga or Tambov regions is possible. In addition, it is also possible to use imported planting material.

2. Digging, (Photo 3). Dimensions - diameter and depth - of an earthen coma are determined taking into account the thickness of the tree trunk, its species, future growth conditions. Before transportation of an adult tree, the earthy lump is frozen or, during the frost-free period, it is securely packed. If necessary, the crown of the tree is packed for safe transportation.

3. Loading and transportation, (Photo 4). The main requirements for loading and transporting a tree are the preservation of an earthen clod - the root system, trunk and crown. Loading and transportation are carried out at a temperature not lower than -18 ° С.

4. Landing large size. Planting pits are dug out taking into account the peculiarities of planting a certain tree species in advance or immediately before its delivery; the pits should not be frozen. Installed around the tree, the extensions are leveled after the soil thaws and remain for 1 year or more. Sanitary pruning of the tree is in progress.

5. Care. The average survival rate of trees is about 95%, which is achieved by a combination of compliance with the technology of the transplant procedure with the maximum possible non-damage of the earthen clod and regular maintenance activities, namely:

• stimulation and encouragement

• protection against diseases and pests, etc.

For particularly large trees that may not respond immediately to replanting, we offer extensions of maintenance into the second and even third year after planting.

The cost of planting coniferous large-sized trees

The cost of planting deciduous large-sized trees

• The cost of planting a tree includes:

the cost of the tree;

cost of nutrient soil;

delivery, planting a tree with a crane, backfilling with nutrient soil;

installation of stretch marks;

pest control, top dressing;

1 year warranty.

The price of planting a large-sized tree does not include watering the planted tree, it is carried out by the customer.

Prices are indicated at a distance of objects from Moscow no more than 20 km, for more remote objects the cost may be increased.

The warranty for trees can be extended up to two years for an additional fee, the cost of the warranty depends on the species and size of the tree and is negotiated separately.

If it is not possible to plant a tree weighing more than 100 kg using crane installations, the tree is planted manually, the cost of planting in this case is negotiated separately.

Loading and removal of infertile soil and construction debris at a distance of more than 20 m from the tree planting site is paid extra.

The indicated prices may vary depending on the level of complexity of the work, the remoteness of the objects from Moscow, terms and other factors.

How to transplant a mature tree

Photo 5. Transplantation of an adult tree.

Large trees add maturity, grandeur to the landscape, completeness to its space, provide shade on sunny days and improve air quality.

Growing a tree from a small sapling to a large spreading specimen requires a lot of time and effort. It is much easier to immediately plant a large tree on your site.

This helps explain the growing popularity of large-sized transplants.

Enough mature tree can be dug up with a special machine and transplanted into your yard within hours, saving you ten years of waiting. This is a really attractive option (Photo 5).

If you're thinking about transplanting a large size, you really need to weigh a lot.

Not every the yard will do for transplanting an adult tree and not every adult tree will stand the test.

The cost of large-sized transplantation should also be taken into account. However, transplanting mature trees makes sense in many cases, so let's go through the process from start to finish.

Equipment for transplanting large-sized

Photo 6 . Large size transplant machine

tree transplant machine is a machine that uses hydraulics to drive triangular blades into the ground in such a way as to extract a conical earthen ball, (Photo 6). The blades are mounted on modified trucks with retractable stabilizers that support and adjust the four blades. The two rear blades are mounted on a folding frame, which allows the rear of the machine to swing open wide when approaching a tree.

There are various tree transplant machines various sizes and various types.

Since the size of the tree determines the type of machine you are using, make sure you clearly and clearly state your requirements to the company manager before starting work. The range of standard equipment ranges from 60 cm in diameter* to 3 m giants.

*The diameter of a clod is the width of an earthen clod on its surface. This distance divided by 10 determines the size of the tree that can be successfully replanted.

So, a machine with a shovel diameter of 60 cm, for example, can transplant a tree with a trunk diameter of 6 cm at a height of 0.5 m from the ground.

On the other hand, a 3m shovel mounted on a semi-trailer can replant a 10m tree. This limits the size of the installations. It should also be taken into account that the transplantation of such trees may be limited by the possibility of movement, since only such a clod of soil can weigh from 5 to 6.5 tons. High equipment costs, as well as high prices for really big trees, lead to the fact that the final bill for one transplant can exceed several thousand dollars.

The process of digging and planting a large tree

Photo 7. Digging a hole before planting a tree.

Every tree planting first requires removing soil from your yard to create a hole for the new tree (Photo 7). As a rule, this earth is then covered with the original place of digging the tree.

1. The operator places the blades of the machine around the tree being dug. Then, with the help of hydraulics, he directs the blades into the ground along given points. The barrel is then tied to the car to prevent it from shifting during transport.

2. Next, the operator, using hydraulics, lifts the root and earthen ball from the ground, lifting it above back truck. Thus, the captured tree is placed horizontally on top of the transport truck.

3. When planting a tree, the car tilts it, returns it to a vertical position and centers the blades in the hole. After the earthen ball with the root has been lowered, the blades are removed.

When planning your job, keep in mind that truck-mounted blades need room to maneuver. Steep slopes, power lines, proximity to buildings, and other location factors can affect your ability to transfer.

Note also that total weight truck and tree can damage sidewalks, paths, spoil the lawn. If you plan to plant large-sized plants on a new site, then it is better to do this before landscaping the yard. Also, make sure that there are no underground utilities at the planned tree planting site.

The key to the success of a large-sized transplant

Photo 8. Preparation of the root system for transportation.

The 10:1 ratio between the blade diameter of a tree transplanter and the diameter of a tree trunk is perhaps more of a mechanical limitation than a requirement of the tree's root system.

The uprooted tree should have enough intact root system to replace the moisture that is lost through the foliage during evaporation, (Photo 8). This also explains why the survival rate decreases with summer period and increases in the cold months of autumn.

To increase the establishment in spring and summer, large machines can be used to transplant small trees. There are also preparations that can be sprayed on the leaves to temporarily reduce the evaporation of water through them. And finally different kinds trees have different survival rates. Spruce, for example, tolerates transplanting well, so you can transplant spruce with a diameter of 20 cm using a machine with a blade diameter of 1.5 m.

In fact, most evergreens tolerate transplanting easily because they have a shallow root system. Some other types of trees, including oak and walnut, take root deep into the ground, which after transplantation will take much longer to recover.

To complicate matters further, dry, rocky soils encourage shallow-rooted trees to root deeper, while fertile, loamy soils encourage near-surface tree root growth. None of these factors predetermine the transplant as a whole, but they should be taken into account when carrying out the work. Some trees are still better planted as seedlings.

A deep root in the form of a rod is also a problem when transplanting. Tree transplanter blades do not close fully when fully extended. Thus, they do not always cut the tap root below the level of the earthen clod, as is possible, but cut it off during the rise of the earthen clod, sometimes quite close to the surface.

If you are going to transplant a large number of trees or fairly large trees, please note that it is worth using tree transplant machines that can cut the main root stem.

Transplant pricing

The working conditions in each case vary significantly, so it is impossible to say exactly how much you will pay for transplanting a large-sized plant into your yard.

Two variable costs in works - this is the cost of the tree and the cost of delivering it to the transplant site. If you are not transplanting a tree from your own yard, or if you don't get it for free, you will have to purchase it.

And, while prices vary, this is a significant part of the cost you will have to incur. For locally distributed species, they will be more modest, while blue spruce with ideal shapes will cost more. In other words, the cost of a tree largely affects the final cost of transplanting large trees.

As for transport costs, the key factor will be your place of residence. Some companies when they have to deal with heavy traffic, longer distances will charge more. Some set an hourly rate, while the Lesmaster company sets a rate for transportation over a certain distance, and if the limit is exceeded, an additional payment is calculated based on mileage.

In most cases, discounts can and should be negotiated.

Aftercare for large size

Photo 9. Transplanted tree with struts installed.

The care you provide for a transplanted bighorn will greatly affect its chances of survival, which is critical in the first year.

The two most important steps to increase the chances of survival of a large size is to provide adequate support and carefully fill the seam between the earthen clod and the surrounding soil, (Photo 9).

Install at least three heavy stakes into the ground outside the root system and secure the tree with rope or nylon cord. To avoid damage to the tree trunk when supported, pass the rope or cord through a short garden hose so that it completely covers the tree. You can also buy special devices for this purpose.

As for the seam between the earthen clod and the surrounding soil, the task is to elimination of any air pockets between them. On loamy or sandy soils, it may be sufficient to simply fill it with water, but in most cases you need to backfill the soil along the seam and then fill it with water. If you see open areas after a while, repeat the process.

Suitable watering is another important factor. Because the tree is just as easy to hurt insufficient watering, as well as redundant, and you need to monitor the situation carefully. Soil type when watering is a major factor.

Heavy clay soils do not absorb water very well, so excess water is more likely to occur on clay soil.

A good test for water seepage through the soil is to fill the transplant hole with water one-third as soon as it is dug. If a most of water is absorbed in about an hour, excess water will be unlikely.

In any case, after the tree has been planted and sprinkled with earth, it is necessary to carefully water the seam.

On non-clay soils, repeat the process for a few days and then water as usual, just like you would your lawn.

As for fertilizers, you should wait until next season. the main objective immediately after transplanting a large-sized plant, not in its growth, but in the restoration of the root system. If you do add anything, let it be a root stimulant, primarily vitamin B-1. This stimulant may contain some fertilizer, but it should either not contain nitrogen or its content should be low.

The best time to apply Root Stimulant is when watering the seam initially.

Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?

Trees, in case of emergency, can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

1. The tree to be transplanted should be taken out of the ground on a foggy or rainy day.
2. Pits are dug a few months before planting and filled with semi-rotted manure or good compost.
3. Trees to be transplanted must be healthy.

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.

Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sun rays. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then, “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch), lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting down the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.

My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...

Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a recess like a bowl so that rainwater would flow right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.

Imagine our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering- and got accustomed!

In the spring, I watered the apple tree in 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this "bowl", as it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

I have subscribed to the journal "Science and Life" for more than 30 years. In response to your request to send interesting materials, I send my article "An easy way to transplant trees."

The basis for writing it was my own experience. Planting wild trees and shrubs near roads, plots or on the plots themselves is not yet very popular in Russia. AT Western Europe and America, large and small cities are buried in greenery, and there are more evergreen trees than deciduous ones. The published literature contains almost no information on the transplantation of wild plants. Over the past 10 years, I have planted more than 500 fruit and wild trees and shrubs, all, with rare exceptions, have begun. Fruit planted on the site. Wild (of which 50% are evergreen, mostly coniferous up to 3 m or more) both on the site (near the house, shed, shed, paths, fences) and on the street (on the outside of the fence or across the road). Of course, without prejudice to the sunlight of vegetable and berry crops.

Our site is located near Volokolamsk, in the collective garden partnership "Rainbow" of the Moscow Agricultural Academy. K. A. Timiryazev. I myself am an engineer, for 38 years I worked in the department of metrology of the Radio Engineering Institute of the Academy of Sciences, for the last 10 years as a chief metrologist. When planting trees, he first consulted with his neighbors - teachers and researchers of the academy. An engineer by profession, I could not help but show interest in the tree as a cybernetic device, knowledge about which, unfortunately, today is mainly limited to empirical experience. My point of view was fully supported by TSCA Associate Professor A. D. Koshansky.

V. Merkulov (Moscow).

It is known that the movement nutrients- salt solutions - from the soil to the tree occurs due to osmotic pressure (pressure in plant cells, depending on the concentration of salts). Inside the tree, the concentration of salts is higher than in the soil. In accordance with the laws of chemistry, the movement of a liquid solution always occurs in the direction of a solution with a higher concentration, that is, from the roots to the top.

When transplanting a tree from one place to another, the plant is dug out of the ground, transported and planted in a new place.

When digging, part of the soil and roots is inevitably lost. A stressed tree quickly consumes the accumulated nutrients, and the osmotic pressure inside it drops. The situation is aggravated by transportation, especially a long one. If by the time of planting in a new place the concentration of salts in the tree is less than the concentration of salts in the soil, it will not take root and will dry out.

It turns out that for a successful transplant, it is necessary to dig up a tree with big ball land and less loss of roots. Transportation to a new location should be quick and, if possible, keeping the clod and roots moist, which is why it is recommended to place the seedling in damp cloth, better cotton, such as burlap, so that the roots breathe.

When transplanting, it is desirable that the living conditions in the new place do not differ from the previous ones. For planting a tree, a hole is enough, equal in volume to a coma of earth. To maintain soil acidity and create better conditions osmotic pressure inside the tree, I do not put fertilizer, manure, leaves, grass, sawdust into the pit. Planting fertilizers, in particular chemical ones, can burn the tips of the roots damaged during digging, and leaves, grass, sawdust can destroy the tree with organic acids, because with a lack of oxygen in the pit, it will take years to decompose. For the same reason, it is undesirable to dig a wooden stake near a tree as a support; it is better to use a neutral plastic pole, and even better a metal one.

In the event that the soil at the planting site is less loose, for better breathing for the roots, I make a hole of a larger diameter, and I fill the space between the clod of earth and its edges with earth mixed with sand (approximately 40%). It is also necessary to mix the earth with sand when planting seedlings with bare roots. When transplanting fruit trees I pour lime at the bottom of the pit and mix it with the ground at the rate of 70-100 g per 1 sq. m.

After planting, the tree first of all needs water in abundance, but without excess: one bucket at the time of planting and, on average, one bucket every 3 days for 1-1.5 months.

It has been my observation that a tree or shrub is easier to accept when it is transplanted from nutrient-rich soil to less-saturated soil, of equal quality. And it is much worse for a seedling when transplanted from soil poor in nutrients to rich.

Such a simple method of transplanting trees and shrubs, primarily wild ones, up to 3 m high and more does not require high costs time and effort. In one hour, you can plant 5-6 or more trees, and at any time of the year, even in winter, but better in early spring immediately after the snow melts. It is possible in the summer - preferably small trees with a large clod of earth. In autumn, plantings, however, take root worse, and so that they do not die, you have to regularly water them until frost. One of necessary conditions survival at any time of the year: the clod of earth of a tree should be as large as possible, such that it can be lifted, moved and transported.

In a new place, wild trees and shrubs take root quickly and require almost no maintenance. For better growth, I fertilize them, but not earlier than a year after planting, most often with water-soluble mineral fertilizers (20-30 g per 1 sq. M a year after planting, in subsequent years - 40-50 g per 1 sq. m).

In addition to nurseries, without damage to forests, wild trees for planting (with the knowledge of forest rangers) can be found under power lines, near highway right-of-way and railways, in quarries and other places where they are not needed and are most often destroyed.

Tree transplant in autumn- a rather responsible step. It requires site owners to be knowledgeable about production and timing.

Tree transplant time in autumn

Agrotechnical practice indicates that autumn (especially late) - best time for transplanting all types of deciduous and conifers. The natural state of rest makes it possible for representatives of all species to comfortably transfer interference into the natural process.

The optimal time is considered for transplanting trees in the fall - from the beginning of leaf fall until the time when the ambient temperature drops to minus fifteen degrees.

In conditions of persistent cooling (in areas middle lane this is mid-October to mid-late November), all deciduous (including fruit) trees can be transplanted. Naturally, best temperature air for such work - from ten to zero degrees. At minus values, additional operations are needed to protect not only the root system itself from freezing, but also to maintain positive soil temperatures around the transplant pit and backfill soil.

For conifers, the best time to transplant is early autumn and early spring.

Plants from other nurseries, taken in advance, should be temporarily buried before the required temperature minimum, if they have an open root system. Seedlings with a closed root system will easily stand until the right time.

The effect of age on survival

The older the plant, the more difficult it will be for it to adapt to new conditions. A huge mass of roots will be lost when digging, no matter how carefully the work is done. In the spring, when the tree will increase its leaf mass, the root system that has not yet been restored will not be able to provide the needs for life-giving moisture, which will manifest itself in depression and, as a result, in subsequent plant diseases.

Optimal for transplants fruit trees autumn their age is considered to be from one to three to five years. In this case, the ability of the plant to survive and grow the root system is maximum. And the absence of an abundant crown (deciduous mass) allows plants to painlessly both grow additional roots and use their minimum for sap flow.

If, if necessary, it is necessary to transfer adult plants (more than five years old) with a well-formed crown to a new place, it is necessary to prepare in advance for this process, since it will require a lot of effort, additional equipment may be required.

Transplanting garden trees in autumn: step one - choosing a new place

There are several reasons for moving a plant:

The new location should solve the problem of shortage sunlight and easy flow of air masses. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes lack the determination to imagine the dimensions of an adult tree - the work of the imagination with coverage seems too difficult. possible consequences. But it is necessary to do this, otherwise the plant after transplantation in a few years will not be able to develop, it will begin to wither, the yield will be reduced, and it is the task of avoiding this that is at the head tree transplants in autumn.

For the development of the plant, nutrient soil is needed, it must be prepared in advance. The estimated amount of soil mixture can be calculated by estimating the volume of the roots (root ball) minus the volume of the humus layer and the soddy soil layer taken out during the preparation of the pit. In other words, the older the plant, the more it will be necessary to prepare (even, perhaps, buy with low-nutrient soils of a new place) a nutrient humus mixture.

If a new place has been chosen on a previously uncultivated piece of land, the soil should be examined in advance. It may be recommended to dig a small (but relatively deep) hole just to look at the composition of the soil.

This technique will help save time during the transplant process itself and even prepare in advance (in clay soil) the necessary drainage.

Step Two: Preparing the Pit in the New Place

The size of the pit depends on the spreading of the tree: the larger the crown, the larger size diameter should be at the dug hole. It is better to draw a circle with a shovel on the surface of the soil, drawing a line a little further than the measured crown diameter - this will allow you to dig a hole in advance with a little excess.

The depth of the pit depends on the type of tree being transplanted; it is impossible to foresee the depth in advance. The following recommendations are relevant here: the depth of the pit can be approximately equal to its width. If, when digging a tree, it turns out that the length of the roots is less, then putting the selected earth back to the bottom is much easier than urgently removing the soil with a dug tree lying nearby.

The first sod layer should not be placed next to the pit, but a little further away so as not to fill it with the lower layers of soil.

Next fertile layer you need to lay it out in another place - it will be needed when filling the roots, while the soil structure will be preserved.

The lower, less fertile layers are laid out separately, some of them will be needed to fill the voids.

Up to ten buckets of water should be poured into the dug hole if the tree is about five years old. This will allow not only to wet the soil, but also to understand how well moisture is absorbed and whether drainage is worth doing.

Step Three: Preparing the Tree

Before replanting trees in autumn you need to carefully examine them and remove excess branches.

You need to start with those that grow towards the trunk, they need to be cut out anyway (they thicken the crown).

Then be sure to remove all branches that have grown below the vaccination site, if any.

To remove those branches that have grown close to each other is crown thinning.

In such a prepared form, it is better for a tree to adapt to a new place.

Step Four: Digging Up the Tree

If the tree is young (up to three years old), it will not be difficult to dig it out: you need to dig it at a distance of at least forty to fifty centimeters from the trunk to a depth of a spade bayonet. It is worth trying to gently tilt it in different sides, if it lends itself to inclination, continue to carefully dig further, taking out the ground and trying not to damage the roots. As soon as the tree begins to tip over under its own weight, the excavation of the earth must be stopped. On a piece of tarpaulin or a thick film laid out in advance, put the tree taken out, trying not to shake the soil from the roots. Carefully wrap the root system with the same film (tarpaulin), tie it above the root collar. In this form, you can transfer it to the future landing site.

When transplanting older trees in the fall, a different hike is required. It consists in the preliminary preparation of a deep trench at a distance of sixty cm to a meter from the tree trunk to a depth of three bayonets of a shovel. Digging in a circle, you need to carefully monitor the lateral roots that come across, they must be carefully cut with a knife and treated with garden pitch. Having removed all the earth from the trench and cut off the long roots, they begin to bring long poles (boards) under the tree. Then they carefully lift it out of the ground, lay it on its side on the prepared tarpaulin, wrap the root ball in it, bandage it and transport it to a new place (preferably not dragged).

In both cases, in order not to damage the root system, the ground around the tree must be shed if it has not rained for more than three days. The amount of water depends on the age of the tree and the condition of the soil (up to ten buckets).

Step Five: Landing in the prepared hole

Before planting, it is advisable to orient the tree along the edges of the world as it grew earlier.

After making sure that the dug hole is a little deeper and wider than the root ball, you can carefully lower the tree into the hole, falling asleep with the prepared soil mixture: first the lower layer mixed with humus, then the upper fertile one with humus, gradually watering the soil being thrown. This technique will fill the earth voids immediately during the transplantation of fruit trees in the fall.

On top of the humus layers, it is advisable to put a previously prepared layer of turf - this will not allow the lower layers of the soil to be eroded.

Some trees need support: after driving stakes into the ground (preferably from three sides), you need to connect them through the tree with rope loops in the form of a figure eight. It is desirable to leave the stakes until the middle of next spring.

Caring for transplanted trees

The next year after the transfer to a new permanent place of residence, you need to more carefully monitor the condition of the tree. Care consists in constant weeding, tracking codling moths on the crown, processing from rot. It is advisable to remove the flower stalks of the first year after transplantation to strengthen the tree.

Despite the outward simplicity and ease of the process, the tree painfully tolerates transplantation: in this case, part of the root system is lost, the functioning of water exchange processes is partially disrupted, and immunity to diseases is weakened. As a result, it becomes vulnerable to the effects environment. Trees up to 3 years old tolerate transplantation quite easily, but the older the plant, the more difficult it is to restore its root system and the more time it takes to adapt to new conditions.

Choosing the best time to transplant

The best time is late autumn or early spring. In autumn, work is carried out from mid-October to the end of November. But if the first half of autumn turned out to be warm and humid, the process of plant growth may be delayed. In this case, it is better to postpone the procedure until a later period, when the tissues of the branches have time to mature and be ready for winter. The advantage of planting in late autumn is that by the onset of spring the root system will take root well and will be able to function normally by the beginning of the growing season.

It is important for a plant transplanted in autumn to provide protection from upcoming frosts by wrapping its trunk and the bases of glued branches with thick light paper or covering them with a layer water-based paint. In the spring, transplanting is recommended as early as possible, before the buds begin to swell.

Caring for transplanted trees

In the first growing season after planting, the transplanted plant requires special care. It is very important to prevent the fruiting of the tree at this time, to remove the set flowers and ovary - the formation of fruits will deprive the already weakened body of a significant amount of nutrients and water. Carefully monitor sufficient soil moisture, especially in summer. When the plant finally takes root, you can start foliar top dressing with nitroammophos or urea solution (0.3%).