Children's bunk bed with their own hands: drawings, diagrams, photos. Bunk bed: options for children and adults made of wood and metal, schemes, manufacturing Scheme of 2 bunk beds

- prices for goods are growing, but I want to live in comfortable living conditions... However, this is understandable, besides, many people are ready to do something on their own to bring benefit to the house. Well, in this article I will show you how to do this and provide drawings and photographs of such furniture.

You can make such a crib for your children yourself

What is required for work

You, of course, understand that any furniture is made of something and something, and these components must be determined immediately. That is, before starting work, you need to prepare necessary materials and find the required tools.

We select materials

OSB of different thickness

In fact, all materials should be made of wood, that is, lumber, but panel products can be different. I'll just list what you can use, but you will have to choose yourself. So, we make a choice:

• bar 50 × 50 mm;
• board 50 × 70 mm (instead of a bar, but this is optional);
• board 100 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm;
• moisture resistant or film faced plywood or oriented strand board (OSB-3 or OSB-4) - here you need a choice;
• dowels with a diameter of 8 mm;
• self-tapping screws (it is better to take white or yellow, they do not rust, therefore, they will last much longer);
• joiner's glue or PVA, it may come in handy, but it may not, it all depends on the assembly method;
• varnish (see footnote!).

Attention! There are different varnishes, but do not forget that you are making a bed for a child! So, look at the instruction sticker, the varnish can be alcohol, alkyd, alkyd-carbamide, nitroglycerin, polyester, polyurethane, acrylic, oil and water. The latter is natural, therefore, it cannot harm a person if inhaled (it is safe not only for adults, but also for children).

What is needed from the tools

An electric jigsaw is more convenient than a manual one

Generally speaking, a hammer, a hacksaw and a figured screwdriver will be enough, but why complicate your life? There are many electrical tools, which will always come in handy in the household and these are:

• electric jigsaw and / or circular hand saw;
• screwdriver and / or electric drill with attachments;
• set of drills;
• metric tape measure, pencil.

Note. Sandpaper or a grinding disc on a grinder can also come in handy, but this is not always the case.

Step-by-step assembly of the crib

In fact, the manufacture of a crib consists of stages, that is, first, different components are made, and then they are assembled. However, factory assembly takes place in the same way.

Sizes of materials

Part marking

1. A - 4 legs 1730x76x38;
2. B - foot pads 1730x76x38;
3. C - 2030x140x38;
4. D - 1850x44x32;
5. E - 914x140x20;
6. F - 914x90x20;
7. G - 1000x76x20;
8. H - 1510x90x20;
9. I - 482x64x20;
10. J - 1800x90x20.

In addition to these details, stock up on such things as:

• grinder (belt or disc);
• clamps for screed parts.

Backrests

Here you need to make planks from the bars

The backs are hammered into dowels

The back at the head and the back at the legs are the same, you can simply diversify them for beauty, for example, make an almost solid crate at the head, and a smaller one at the feet. Instead of lathing, you can use laminated chipboard. Please note that the assembly is done with dowels and carpentry glue or PVA - they must fit tightly and they are hammered in with a hammer. There is one more nuance for the legs - if someone does not like to rest their feet on the crossbars, then the middle board should not be placed, although this is not so important for children.

How to make side walls

Side wall image

Focus your attention on the bars that run horizontally across the stack - they are made in a block-like fashion. Such a device allows you to fix the bottom rails. Therefore, you should turn to the strength of the bars when buying them - there should be no cracks, rot and / or wane, so that misfortune does not happen (the bottom does not fall out). You can even use a 50 × 70 mm board instead of a bar - this will be more reliable.

Make the wall itself from an edged polished board 50 × 200 mm and again look at the quality so that there are no cracks, fungus and wane there. You will need to paint the walls for manufacturing, but do not use nitro-varnishes - it is best to buy drugs at water based type Aqua. You can also paint the walls with an oil wax, but this will be much more expensive.

Frame

Crib frame

The slats on the frame rest on the bars on the sidewalls, but they should be fixed with self-tapping screws so that they do not budge. As for the stacking, it should not be too dense, that is, the rail must be inserted by hand, and not hammered, because otherwise the lumber will creak from friction. You should not process them with varnish - all the same, the bottom will be made of chipboard, MDF or OSB.

Making a ladder

Making a ladder

To begin with, this is generally a separate part of the structure, which should be easily removed and just as easily installed in place. It is important here not to fix it permanently - the ladder can be easily detached, but at the same time hold on so that the child cannot fall from it.

Stair parts

Not difficult, just calculate the slope and step of the steps correctly. Talking about optimal slope, then this is 29-33⁰, although this is not a critical indicator (it can be done much steeper), and the steps for the child can be positioned every 30-35 cm.Do not forget that the varnish itself is slippery, so you should not apply several layers - one will be enough. Below you can watch a video - this is one of the options for manufacturing products.

Video: Self-production baby cot

Another option

Let's look at a few more options - they are very similar, like all projects, well, a bed is a bed. Do not be alarmed that all actions may seem identical - there is a very big difference.

Selection of materials

Bunk bed option

V this moment Let's try to select the most common materials, although they can even be called the easiest in technical terms:

• solid wood (log) - the most good material, but it requires at least minimal carpentry experience and machine tools. At home, this is not available to everyone;
• ready-made sawn timber from solid wood - edged polished board and bars. GOST 17231-78 says that for such products the moisture content should not exceed 10-12% (no cracks, rot and wane). Otherwise, the lumber can be twisted by the "helicopter";
• MDF is a finely dispersed fraction of sawn timber, which does not produce chips when sawing and drilling. It has an average density, but it is more expedient to use it as a cladding material. There are laminated sheets, but they are more expensive than usual - this is a matter of personal choice. Sawing can be ordered at a carpentry workshop (the edges will also be glued there), but this is easy to do on your own;
• Chipboard - chipboard without any coating. It has a poor density, so such panels are not recommended for use under heavy load. It is better to use LDSP (laminated plates) as the bottom of the bed or backs;
  OSB - oriented strand board. They are divided into 4 classes - OSB-1, OSB-2, OSB-3 and OSB-4. Only OSB-3 and OSB-4 are moisture resistant - this is an excellent material for a crib.

How to fasten knots

1 - docking in half a tree, 2 - docking on the paw

There are two ways to do the docking: the first option is easier, and the second is more reliable. But on the paw, the joint will have to be cut with a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal.

1 - docking with a full cut, 2 - docking with an incomplete cut, 3 - connection to a reinforced steel angle

For the first two methods, docking is best done by fixing with wood glue or PVA. The second method is more relevant when using self-tapping screws, but this is only for solid wood.

1 - docking on rectangular dowels, 2 - dovetail docking, 3 - docking on the main tenon

V in this case all connections are good, so you can use whichever is easier for you or just whichever you like best.

Several options with drawings

A bit of decor when cutting backs and walls

This option is already for professional carpenters

Here the child will have a place not only to sleep, but also to play.

Ladder and lower tier can be used as bed linen or clothes wardrobes

Video: Bed in the form of a castle

In the photos and videos, you can see that there are, in fact, no restrictions for design, but a lot will depend on your skill. You understand that most things are now done on machine tools and special carpentry tools, which are not found in every home. But if you wish, you can order some parts from specialists (you cannot buy them in the store).

And one more nuance - step by step guide, as such for the manufacture of a crib does not exist in nature. You can see for yourself that there can be many options, and everything will depend on your skill and desire (on financial capabilities too). But if you do not even have experience in carpentry work, then you can learn this and the first step will just be sleeping place for your child or even two siblings.

Conclusion

I think you figured out how to make a children's bunk bed with your own hands, and you can decide on such an experiment. The most important thing here is not to get complex because of the inability or fear of something new (you probably remember who burns the pots).

Owners small apartments you have to solve the problem of saving space. Standard layout with small area rooms forces to look for a compact functional furniture to make the environment as ergonomic as possible. A good option a bunk bed with your own hands is considered, which will free up space for games in the children's room.

Before making a bed out of wood, you need to decide on the size and placement of furniture in the bedroom. In addition, you need to determine how the ladder will be installed to climb to the upper tier. It can be located on the side or in front of the bed. The final length of the structure will be about 80 mm longer than the sleeping area, and the width will be 100 mm more. You also need to take into account that the side with a vertical ladder increases by another 45 mm, so it is important to correctly calculate the placement of the bed in a small nursery.

To figure out how to do bunk bed, it is necessary to prepare a set of drawings - examples are presented below. For standard design designed for two teenagers, you can choose the following options:

• total height - 1850 mm. It is not recommended to make the second tier too high, since under the very ceiling the child will be stuffy and uncomfortable;
• the height of the side of each tier is 490 mm. This is a guarantee of protection, thanks to the side, the child will not fall;
• berth length - 1900 mm. This is usually enough even for a tall teenager; when calculating the length, the dimensions of the mattress are taken into account;
• bed width - 900 mm. The width of the stairs is 345 mm, the distance between the steps is 250 mm.

The optimal position of the upper tier is determined so that the person sitting on the first tier does not touch the second head. The bottom should be comfortable to sit, while the height should be optimal. It should be noted that the thickness of the mattress is about 200 mm. At the end of the article, a drawing of two bunk bed with dimensions, it will allow you to create a general idea of ​​the design.

All dimensions and drawings are based on the assumption that a bunk bed for children will be placed in a room with a ceiling height of 2500 mm. When designing a bed, you need to take into account the standard size of the mattress, it is selected taking into account the age and height of the child. It is recommended to provide a margin, since the furniture should last more than one year.

What is required for work

Before making a bunk bed with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools. Optimal solution for assembly - solid pine boards, the wood must be checked for defects. The table provides a list and the number of materials that are needed in order to make a children's bunk bed from wood.

A bunk bed made of solid wood, assembled by hand, will require considerable labor. However, solid wood can be replaced with laminated chipboard - there will be less problems with edge processing. As a basis for a mattress, you can use not a frame made of wooden slats, but sheets of durable plywood, their thickness should be at least 9 mm. Screws 3.5 x 40 mm are used as fasteners, decorative plugs are also required to mask the caps, and a set of tools must also be prepared. Home master you will need a drill with a set of drills, a jigsaw, a countersink, a surface grinder. The assembly also uses 8 mm dowels and wood glue. For measurements, you will need a tape measure and a pencil. You can tighten the screws manually, but to speed up the process, it is better to use a screwdriver.

Parts procurement

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands? Having prepared everything you need, you can start preparing component parts beds and furniture assembly. The first step is to measure the mattress; the shape and configuration of the future bed depends on it. On each side, 2 cm is added to the obtained values, so that in the future it will be convenient to fill the bed linen. All outer edges of the bed must be chamfered, as there should be no sharp corners on children's furniture. A plow is used to solve this problem. When choosing materials, it is necessary to pay increased attention to quality: children love to jump on the bed, testing it for strength.

Headboard

Side wall

The basis of the frame is made up of 4 side parts - drawers. They are side boards to which longitudinal slats are attached to support the mattress and the bars are stuffed. Between these bars there will be cross bars on which the mattress is placed. The chamfer must be removed from the upper inner side - the drawers should not have an internal acute angle as this may result in scratches. The bars hold the mattress boards, preventing them from moving to the sides, so it is not necessary to fasten the lamellas with self-tapping screws.

• drill holes in the uprights and crossbars to install the dowels;
• connect the support post and the headboard with dowels impregnated with wood glue. The glued frame is tightened with clamps to dry completely to ensure strength;
• glue the outer covers to cover the fasteners;
• at the top of the headboard attach three decorative overlays to which the fence will join.

Assembling the frame

Legs

The role of the legs in such a bunk bed is played vertical posts frame, assembly is carried out using screws or other types of connections. The lower part of the legs can be independently given any decorative shape. Looks good carved wood: The processing of the feet can be ordered in advance from the lathe. The round curly legs of the bed will become important element decor for the nursery.

If you want to make a bunk bed with a sofa installed in a box with your own hands, use strong bars for the legs. They are fixed from the outside or from the inside, they can also be inserted into the box.

Stairs

It is necessary to make and assemble a ladder with three steps. For this, vertical posts are used, in which it is necessary to make cuts with a depth of 38 mm for attachment to the frame. Guide holes are drilled in the racks for attaching the steps. When placing the lower tier, it is important to ensure that the fasteners do not fall into the same place where the lower tier board is located.

If the staircase is installed obliquely, rather than vertically, it is advisable to equip it with a handrail for maximum safety... For this, a bar of small thickness is used, it is selected in accordance with the girth of the child's hand. The railings are firmly fixed with self-tapping screws.

Stair parts

Assembling the stairs

Build process

Let's take a closer look at how you can make and assemble a bunk bed for children with your own hands using prepared frame elements: there are many design options, but most are assembled according to a single principle. Assemble the drawers according to the instructions, then take care of the frame of the headboard and backrest. Next, you need to do the following:

• install the drawers in the gaps left between the side plates of the uprights. Attach them on each side with four self-tapping screws. This can be done manually or with a screwdriver;
• install the structure on the floor and attach a handrail, a ladder with steps, as well as a guardrail with self-tapping screws;
• screw on the slats (lamellas) on which the mattress will fit. This is an optional step: the lamellas are held by bolted bars on both sides, which must fit snugly against the slats;
• Sand the entire structure to make the boards as smooth as possible. This can be done manually; to reduce labor costs, it is better to use grinder... Sanding prevents scratches, the surface should be perfectly flat;
• process everything wooden elements impregnation or stain to protect against decay. After that, it can be painted or varnished for an aesthetic appearance. The color is selected depending on general design interior, it is undesirable to use too bright colors.

The bunk bed assembly guide includes several additions. Drawers are placed under the lower tier, which allows you to store various useful items and bedding. Boxes are assembled from boards or more affordable fiberboard boards and are installed on metal rails. For ease of use, they are equipped with handles, or holes can be made in them for ease of pulling out. Looks original homemade option, boxes in which play the role of stairs. They both guarantee safety when lifting, and allow you to allocate space for storing toys and other things.

Any homemade bunk beds need to be additionally attached to the wall, unless it is made of drywall. This precaution helps to prevent the structure from overturning during too noisy children's play. The fastening should be as reliable as possible, it will have to withstand a heavy load.

Ways to connect wooden knots

How is it more convenient to make a bunk wooden bed with your own hands for a novice master? There are several ways to connect wooden knots:

• self-tapping connection is the simplest option, with the help of which the boards are connected at right angles. Self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps do not stick out above the surface, the joints are closed with decorative overlays;
• connection with dowels - they can be round or rectangular shape... The furniture dowel allows you to connect parts from any materials, including solid wood, chipboard, fiberboard. It is not visible from the outside. It does not spoil appearance furniture;
• glue joint - joinery glue is used to attach pads that increase the strength of the support posts. This connection option can be additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws.

To create curly elements of the back and foot of a bunk bed with your own hands, the project is initially developed on paper. The finished paper template is applied to the workpiece, after which the part of the desired shape is carefully cut out with a jigsaw.

1 - half-tree connection; 2 - connection "in the paw"

1 - complete felling; 2 - the felling is not complete; 3 - steel corner

A bunk bed is not much different from the usual one: a frame, but a large height, and two bottoms instead of one. Making it yourself is almost as easy as assembling it. The only difference is the need to independently determine the dimensions of the structure and purchase materials.

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands? Judging by the range of products in the store, then wood fiber material is quite suitable for a baby bed - MDF, fiberboard, OSB. But, firstly, you still need to use not every fiberboard, but only the one in whose passport a low emission class is indicated. And secondly, make a bed from wooden planks no more difficult, and this material is much safer and more reliable.

Bunk bed made of solid pine (photo)

Most affordable option- solid pine. The wood is cheap, so pick up the right amount the first grade of labor will not be. Much more expensive is oak or beech. It is harder, it is harder to work with it, but an oak product has served for decades.

In any case, the wood must be well dried - no more than 18% moisture, and processed antiseptic agents... It is recommended to purchase planed boards.

For a bunk bed you will need:

• wooden bar for racks - 10 * 5 mm;
• ladder bar - 4 * 6 cm;
• board for spacers and sides - 10 * 2 cm, 15 * 2 cm, 20 * 2 cm;
• plywood for the bottom or a set of slats with lateral holders - the latter option is preferable.

Fasteners - screws, self-tapping screws, screws, metal corners, glue.

Sandpaper is required to clean the edges and edges, and a plastic edging or thermal tape is required to seal the edges.

The following tools will be required:

• screwdriver or drill with an appropriate attachment;
• jigsaw,
• hammer, screwdrivers, pliers;
• square, tape measure and building level.

Schemes and drawings

Making any design of a bunk children's bed with your own hands begins with a drawing. Moreover, this drawing must be done independently. Ready-made diagrams and drawings bunk beds do it yourself do not always fit and here's why.

• The defining parameter for the size of a bunk bed with your own hands is not so much the width and length as the height. If it is assumed that children will sleep on it for several years, then the sizes are selected with a large margin. Most often these are standard - 90 * 190 cm. Alternatively, you can measure the mattress that will be used and determine the parameters of the lounger by its width and length. In this case, the length of the bed should exceed the length of the mattress by 8 cm, and the width by 10 cm.
• The height is determined by the height of the ceiling in the room. A child on the second tier should not only sit freely, but also move. In addition, the ceiling hanging directly over the face is very unpleasant. The minimum is that a sitting child should not reach the ceiling with his raised hand.
• The distance between the first and second tier is selected based on the same principles. The easiest way to do this for an adult: sitting on the second tier, dad does not touch the bottom of the upper bed with his head.
• The distance between the bottom of the lower bed and the floor is at least 30 cm.
• When calculating the ratio, you need to take into account the thickness of both mattresses.

Drawing is required. Moreover, schemes of two loungers, the facade of the structure and the end are required. It is necessary to draw a diagram, taking into account the scale, and in as much detail as possible. Using such a drawing, it is much easier to calculate the required amount of materials.

If used ready circuit a bunk bed with your own hands, found on the pages of the site, you need to make sure that the dimensions indicated on it are suitable for a nursery. They can only be changed proportionally: you cannot simply increase the height of the bunk bed by 30 cm and place the lower lounger higher. Any change affects the stability of the structure. This requires compensation both by adjusting other parameters and the overall reinforcement of the frame.

DIY bunk bed drawing

Manufacturing and assembly process

We make a bunk bed with our own hands. The timber and boards must be kept indoors for several days before assembling the product in order for the tree to acclimatize. So in a simple way warping and drying of the material is prevented.

You can cut the boards yourself, or you can order a cut to size at the place of purchase.

1. The first step is to make bed frames. To do this, a bar with a section of 5 * 10 mm is fastened in the form of a rectangle according to the size of the lounger. Best mount- using the spike-in-groove method on wood glue, however, this option is possible only if there is a milling tool. If this is not possible, the connection is made to metal corners.
2. A spacer is installed in the frame from the same timber or board 10 * 2 cm, having previously cut it off in width. Depending on the expected load of the spacers, there can be from 1 to 4.
3. The sides are screwed to the frame: from a board with a section of 15 * 2 cm for the lower bed and 20 * 2 cm for the upper one. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside and make sure that they do not go through the side.
4. 4 racks are made for the frame. To do this, 2 bars with a cross section of 5 * 10 mm and a length equal to the height of the bed together with the fence of the second tier are fastened two at a time so that they form an L-shaped profile. In this case, the self-tapping screw is sunk in the tree, and the grooves are putty and sanded sandpaper.
5. At the height of the first and second levels, holes are made in the finished supports for the fastening screw. The same holes are made in the frames of the sun loungers.
6. It is recommended to fix the structure to the wall. To do this, the upper level is fixed to the vertical risers with screws. Then the product is applied to the wall to mark the fixation points. At this stage, you cannot do without an assistant, since the mount must be rigid. Holes are drilled in the wall at the level of the second tier, then the corresponding holes are made in the bed itself so that it passes through the beam of the frame and the rack. The structure is firmly pressed against the wall and fixed with screws.

If the bed is installed differently, then the attachment to the walls is not performed.

1. The first level is mounted - metal corners are used for reliability.
2. On the second level, the sides are made: boards measuring 20 * 2 cm are fixed on the racks. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside, the holes are sealed as described above. On the site where they plan to install the stairs, the sides are not attached.
3. For the stairs, two 4 * 6 cm beams are fixed on the bed frame - both the upper and lower ones. Install the crossbeams, fixing them with self-tapping screws.
4. A plywood sheet is laid on the frame - the bottom, or the slats are fixed on the lath holders.

The structure, if necessary, is sanded, opened with a matte or glossy varnish. The edges are sealed with thermal tape or plastic edging.

How to make a wooden bunk bed with your own hands (video):

DIY metal bunk bed

The design of a metal bunk children's bed with your own hands is even simpler than a wooden one. But collecting it is much more difficult: it requires welding machine and some experience with it.

1. For the frame of the lounger, a 45 * 50 mm metal corner is used. The product is cut to size - with a hacksaw for metal or a grinder. At the ends of the corners, sections are cut out for a tighter joining and connected to the sidebars - channel 65 * 32 mm. Parts are welded, checking the parallelism of the elements and the value of the right angle.
2. Bumpers in metal structure absent.
3. Vertical racks are cut from a thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. The frame of the sunbed is welded to the racks. All welds light up
4. Bumpers for the upper tier, headboard and footboard are more often ordered in the workshop: forging, hot or cold, allows you to get not only durable, but also a beautiful product. However, they can also be assembled independently from a pipe of the same diameter and rods. In any case, the bumpers on the second tier in the form of a single curved rail will not work. The sides should be made like a railing with a transom filling.

Manufacturing video

• Most of the videos on making bunk beds with your own hands demonstrate only a few moments of assembly. The lion's share of them was filmed only for the purpose of acquaintance.
• Amateur videos are more often filmed by experienced DIYers: you can learn a lot here. But only interesting or important moments from the point of view of the performer are demonstrated here. The processes that he considers trivial or well-known to all are little covered.
• The most informative source for a beginner is instructions for assembling a finished wooden bed. Here, the material includes not only the installation sequence, but also a description of all required parts, dimensions and illustrations for fasteners.

Using the instructions and more detailed video material, it is quite possible to make a bunk bed.

A homemade bunk bed with your own hands is a practical and attractive solution for a nursery. Its design is quite simple, so a novice master can also make it. And it's even easier to arrange it to the taste of the child.

Assembly instructions for a finished wooden bunk bed (video):

The housing stock of the times of the construction of the USSR does not spoil large areas apartments, and since this is the main part of the modern housing stock in Russia, many families are faced with the problem of a lack of space. That is why the bunk bed for children is very popular. It allows you to significantly save space by reducing the area under the bed, and modern design options help make this structure a unique place to store various things - from toys to clothes.

Bunk beds are very popular with children, help them to find compromises and learn to negotiate, and also create a very cozy special atmosphere throughout the room.

Variety of bunk beds

Children's bunk beds are available in a wide variety of options. This can be a classic bed for 2 children:

Some cribs are made for 3 children or even 4 children:

There are bunk bed options for adults and 1 child:

Children really like these cribs with a slide:

Or in the form of houses:

Some cribs have a sofa downstairs. It is more convenient to receive guests this way.

Adults prefer more practical options bunk beds: with large quantity drawers (they can even be in the steps!), with a wardrobe and a table for classes:

Transformer models are also popular, which will serve equally well for a child in younger age, and suitable for an older, teenager:

The transformer must have a table, a curbstone and drawers. As a rule, such models are made for 1 child with 1 berth, but a second one can be provided pull-out bed as in the photo above.

Look original and attractive corner models... They not only save space, but they are also securely attached to two walls.

Children's bunk beds are specially designed for girls:

Or for boys:

Many models make unisex:

A bunk bed can be not only for children, but also for teenagers or adults. If you are buying a baby cot, it is better to order immediately with large size berth, for growth.

The price for bunk beds can vary from 7 to 200 thousand rubles. It all depends on the manufacturer and materials.

Materials for making a bunk crib

Children's bunk beds are made from the following materials:

• metal;
• tree;
• plywood.

The main part of the structure can be metal, wood or laminated chipboard... Plywood is used to create the base under the mattress.

The main advantage wooden beds and chipboard products is an aesthetically pleasing design. But metal cribs have a greater margin of safety and are guaranteed to last for several decades.

We make a bunk bed with our own hands

It is quite realistic and not so difficult to make a bunk bed with your own hands. The whole process can be broken down into the following stages:

1. Preparation of a sketch and drawing for the required dimensions.
2. Preparation of tools and materials.
3. Making a crib.

Drawing for making a bunk bed

A drawing is the first stage in the production of any furniture. If you do not have the necessary skills in this, you can use the ready-made one. For instance? this option is ideal for a small children's room with a bed in the corner. This will save on materials, as fewer supports can be made.

The second tier can be made a little lower if the ceiling in your room does not allow for such a structure. Do not make the second tier too high, as this can be dangerous for the child who will sleep there. Firstly, injuries are possible as a result of falling (not so much in a dream as during games). Secondly, warm air rises up, so sleeping right under the ceiling is very unpleasant in the warm season. Thirdly, children often like to play on the "2nd floor" of such a crib.

However, the upper bed should not be lowered too much, since an adult person will sit on the lower berth and it will be inconvenient for him to constantly bend over or bang his head. It should also be borne in mind that children will not always be so low, which means that the distance between the upper berth and the ceiling should also be suitable for an adult.

For the upper bed, handrails must be made. They should be high enough so that the child does not accidentally fall while sleeping.

During the planning and drawing stage, pay Special attention to the location of the stairs to climb to the upper berth. It will need to be well secured and made strong, since it will be used often. Might be worth ordering finished structure made of metal. This will increase its strength.

DIY materials for creating a bunk bed

It is easier to make a chipboard bed yourself, since wood and metal require skills to work with them. Quality finished product will be no worse than from pine board, which is often used for the manufacture of children's furniture.

Calculations necessary materials are made based on the drawing. You can save your time and order sawing chipboard in professional offices. This will slightly increase the cost of manufacturing, but all the cuts will be perfectly even and all you have to do is stick the edge on them with an iron or hair dryer.

In addition, you will need 2 sheets of plywood to be placed under the mattress. Its thickness must be at least 9 millimeters. Theoretically, for the same purposes, you can use sheets of chipboard or wooden lath, but then the price of the item will increase.

To make the crib, which we presented in the previous figure, you will also need the following components:

DIY bunk bed tools

To work with chipboard and make a crib, you need the following tools:

Making a crib with your own hands

At the end preparatory work you can start connecting the parts. If the chipboard was cut correctly, then there will be no installation problems.

This completes the production of a baby bunk bed. Thoroughly wipe all surfaces, put mattresses and you can make beds and use them!

You can get acquainted with another option for making a children's bunk bed in the video:

High quality and original furniture not only emphasizes the uniqueness of the home, but also allows you to diversify your life.

You can make a bunk bed from several types of material: a fairly popular chipboard, timber and edged board, furniture board as well as an array.

A wooden bunk bed with your own hands is made quite quickly, but you will have to invest a lot of effort in it due to a number of features.

A selection of materials before the workflow

There are a number of materials from which a bunk bed can be made with your own hands, but in fact only a few are used:

1. Particleboard, among others, is especially popular due to its low price and the possibility of extremely fast production. With skillful work with a jigsaw, problems will not arise, but cannot be done inner drawing since to close it requires sophisticated technique, which is installed only in factories. The downside is the color gamut (it is impossible to create a high-quality imitation), as well as small emissions chemical substances into the air in places not covered by edging.
2. Edged boards and beams are also very popular, but more and more often as load-bearing elements, while they are rarely used as the main ones. It is quite difficult to work with them, besides, it can be quite difficult to evaluate the material without preliminary experience, and only an experienced person can distinguish 17% moisture from 30%. In the presence of lathe timber is gaining special popularity, because a very interesting support structure can be formed.
3. Furniture panel is the most expensive among all, and you can find it not in every city in the world. To make a bunk bed with your own hands, this material fits perfectly, and the strength and environmental friendliness are almost equivalent to solid wood. It lends itself well enough to processing, and you can form a pattern even without through holes, which is highly appreciated by lovers of wood cutting.
4. The array is rarely used, because prices are almost always astronomical, although you can get it everywhere. The convenience of this approach lies in the minimum number of parts, as well as their complete homogeneity. Working with the material is quite complicated (you need to properly dry, select and process), so without good preliminary experience it is better not to get to work.

The fittings are standard, but it is advisable to resort to galvanized steel instead of aluminum, which often does not look so impressive, but it is much more reliable, and this is especially important for the upper tier.

Preparation and main activities

Tools and materials:

• roulette;
• edged board;
• timber;
• bar;
• jigsaw;
• protective composition;
• the brush is flat;
• screwdriver;
• steel furniture corners;
• furniture screws.

At the very beginning, you need to prepare a drawing of the future workflow. It is desirable to use the minimum number of parts in the drawing; moreover, it is often simplified during work, because not all elements can be machined. The dimensions of the bed may vary depending on the physical characteristics of the resting person, i.e. with a height of 190 cm, it makes no sense to make the bed shorter than 210, while at 160 cm, 180 will be optimal.

In this case, the most inconvenient option will be considered - working with an edged board and a bar, because, having learned from a complex, it will be much easier to go to a simple one. First you need to make a complete sawing of the elements, which will then be used:

• timber 60 * 60 mm - 4 pcs. 1800 mm each;
• edged board 25 * 150 mm - 6 pcs. 1900 mm each, 12 pcs. 750 mm each and 2 pcs. 1550 mm each;
• bar 25 * 80 mm - 2 pcs. 1800 mm each and 6 pcs. 300 mm each.

After that, they should be sanded as carefully as possible with sandpaper. Particularly close attention is paid to the places of the cuts, so that no burr remains on them, and after the end of sanding, you need to collect all the dust from the wood with a damp sponge (not wet), but do not particularly moisten it.

Then in mandatory all elements are covered protective layer against moisture and insects. Drying usually takes up to 12 hours, after which you can start working again.

Now you have to collect a lot of sawn elements in 1 general design bunk bed with your own hands:

1. At a height of 30 cm from the bottom of the beams, a perimeter is formed from edged boards.
2. One more perimeter is formed mirrored from above.
3. The foot and headboards are covered with 2 short boards.
4. The upper tier along the perimeter is closed with boards, and you only need to leave the area for the stairs.
5. A staircase is being formed.

In order to organize the joint between the board and the timber, you will need a furniture steel corner, 2 screws for each joint. It is this design that will ensure maximum reliability of the entire system during operation, regardless of the weight of the resting person.

If you wish, you can use long-length furniture screws, but for them you initially need to drill small-diameter holes, after which you can finally tighten them. Mounting on self-tapping screws is more reliable, but the joints will be visible (it is better to use 2 options in pairs so that the quality is extremely high).

Important aspects in work

Tools and materials for further work:

• PVA and sawdust;
• furniture plugs;
• stain and varnish;
• the brush is flat;
• rubber heels;
• hammer and glazing beads.

After the bunk bed is made with your own hands, you need to make reclining places in it. This will require 8 cuts of a 25 * 40 mm bar along the entire internal length by 2 levels - these will be drawers.

Ordinary screws are used to fix them, but you still need to drill holes so as not to split the wood. The fastening step is only 25 cm with the obligatory joints in the corners.

On them mattress toppers are formed from edged boards. To do this, the board is cut into the entire inner width of the bed and fixed in 10-13 cm increments. If the step is reduced, then the bed will be too hard, and with an increase, the mattress will fall into the cracks. All fixing is done on self-tapping screws with a flat head, and the hat must be inserted into the board (a groove is cut out with a chisel). Otherwise, the mattress may be damaged, which should not be allowed.

Everything visible to the eye the screws must be closed with special furniture plugs that allow the metal to merge with the wood. If you want to achieve a better result, you can mix PVA with sawdust (you get an impromptu putty) and carefully tighten the metal with this gruel. In any of the 2 options, the result will be quite good, but upon closer inspection, you can still see the screws.

And now the bed is completely ready, but you cannot rest on it yet. Now you need to cover it with stain and varnish, and then give 36 hours to dry completely in a ventilated area. You should not be guided by the fact that after 4-5 hours after varnishing with your fingers nothing is felt, because harmful chemical compounds will be emitted into the surrounding atmosphere for a very long time.

Before starting operation, rubber heels are nailed to the legs on glazing nails, which will allow leveling the unevenness of the floor. Instead of rubber, you can use plastic counterparts, but they will not provide such softness.

Summarizing

Regardless of which drawing was chosen for the work, and then the materials, the whole process must be carried out with the utmost care. Because bed exposed stable high loads, you need to choose extremely reliable materials that will last a long time.

If suddenly something went wrong while doing the work, you can always interrupt for a short while, after which, by adapting the part to another place, cut off the excess.

Even if at the end there are a lot of unclaimed cuts, you should not get rid of them all, because long ones may still be useful in the future for new ideas.