Paint the outside of the bath. How and with what you can paint a cast-iron bath: an overview of the best restoration methods

Cast iron bathroom paint is designed for the restoration of old products. She saves her from disposal, because the bathroom is necessary premises in a house or apartment. Many residents have apartment buildings there are products made of cast iron, as they are convenient, practical to use. Cast iron bathtubs - a design in which you can swim, wash clothes. They have a long service life.

But after mechanical and chemical influences (chips, scratches, detergents), the coating inside eventually becomes unusable. Acquires a gray tint, cracks, yellowness. You can correct deficiencies without calling a specialist, with self-painting products. Painting a cast iron bath at home with your own hands is the perfect solution.

For painting, it is necessary to choose only a dye for metal structures.

This method has a number of advantages:

• Large selection of tones coatings;
• The price of the dye saves a lot of money;
• The ability to paint a cast-iron bath without calling specialists;
• Saving time and effort, fast execution;
• Absence bad smell after the dye has dried;
• Nice glossy finish.

However, this method of updating the surface has disadvantages:

• The outer coating must be treated with a grinder before applying the composition, and after that with a soil mixture;
• It is necessary to apply dye for an old cast iron product
  only after treatment of the coating with an antifungal compound;
• There are acrylic solutions that dry for a long time - three days.

What can be painted cast iron bath? First you need to find the appropriate paint, only then begin work on the surface treatment of cast iron.

Types of paints

The dye is divided into four types:

1. Epoxy resin (two-component);
2. Acrylic (liquid base);
3. Epoxy;
4. Aerosol - well suited for long products.

Resin

For painting cast iron baths with severe surface corrosion (chips, deep cracks). Epoxy enamel is applied in a thick layer, even without preliminary ground surface treatment.

The resin is diluted with solvents to a thick consistency, applied to the chips, and then to the entire surface.

Acrylic dye (enamel)

How to paint, process a cast-iron bath inside at home? Acrylic. Do-it-yourself resurfacing of cast iron is a simple, easy method of resurfacing.

Acrylic is liquid in consistency, which makes it easier to work with its distribution over the coating. After drying acrylic composition becomes glossy, which is why this paintwork is popular today. The service life of acrylic film is from 7 to 20 years with proper care, therefore, it will be beneficial to paint the product with such a composition.

Epoxy dye

Epoxy paint is resistant to mechanical influences. It is a synthetic resin-based oligomer. durable, durable coating for metal and industrial equipment. Paint with a glossy effect, hydrophobic in nature. You can paint with any handy tool: roller, brush, spray gun.

Spray

Cast iron bath paint is an aerosol, namely a dye for cast iron products.

It is applied after surface treatment with grinding equipment and a primer. This is a topcoat with a large assortment - from a bright varied palette to the manufacturer. The paint is quick-drying, it can be processed in hard-to-reach places.

Manufacturers

How to paint a cast iron bath at home without knowing which paint to choose? From dyes and enamels, it is possible to distinguish compositions that are in great demand for painting a cast-iron bath:

• "Epoxin 51". Enamel.

According to the manufacturer (Russia), products with enamel will last about 9-10 years;

• Liquid acrylic Lux "Ekovanna". (Manufacturer - Russia).

This is a kit that includes a hardener and the enamel itself. The service life of the processed product with acrylic is 15 years with proper care;

• Lako colorful materials Finnish company Tikkurila. Realex 50. Price 1000 -1300 Russian rubles;
• Paint Rust Oleum (USA). "Specialty Tub & Tile Refinishing Kit". The price is 1700-2000 Russian rubles per liter. Painting a cast iron bath with such a composition will not be difficult;
• Dulux (country - UK). Dulux Reallife Kitchen & Bathroom. Dye. Its price is from 1000 to 2,500 Russian rubles for 1.20 liters;
• "Svetlana" (production - Russia). The set includes clearing pastes ( White color and other tones). The price of such a kit is about 800 rubles;
• "Renaissance" (manufacturer - Russia). Paint for cast iron. The kit includes all the tools needed to paint the surface. The price is up to 900 rubles per jar, with a volume of 0.8 liters;
• "Kudo" (domestic manufacturer). Spray (enamel). The price of one can is the difference (from 200 rubles to 500 rubles) depending on the composition and color. With this paint, you can paint a cast-iron bathtub from the outside.

With all the variety of what you can paint or update a cast-iron bath at home or in the country, you can look on the Internet or in a hardware store.

What to look for when choosing bath paint? Restoring the surface of the bath is best done with high-quality materials and paintwork.

When choosing a paintwork (this is what can be painted), the characteristics of each product are taken into account. How to choose paint:

• The purpose of the composition is indicated on the can of paint - for
  metal works;
• Bath paint has a shelf life of one year. The paintwork kit includes tinting pastes and special hardeners.

Do-it-yourself spray painting of a cast-iron bathtub will not work, as the coating will not form a dense layer.

Coating Requirements

There are many types of paint and varnish coatings (LKM) on the market and there is something you can paint a bathtub with. There are restrictions that prohibit painting the bath:

• As part of the LCM should not be present toxic substances, which can interact with water, detergents and oxygen;
• The texture of the paint should be dense and firm, with a glossy effect. This paint fits perfectly on the surface of the old cast iron.

Paintwork - that's what you can paint the bath. But you need to test in advance for color. To do this, it is worth applying one coat of paint before painting the cast-iron bowl, on clear glass and let dry. You can evaluate the quality of the tone like this: look from the back of the glass.

Bath enamel

How to paint a bathtub inside? In addition to paint and acrylic, the construction market that sells bathtubs should be consulted for enamel.

There are two types of composition:

1. For professional bath treatment with your own hands. This composition is liquid and is applied in several layers;
2. For manual processing at home. The mixture is thick, which will allow you to distribute it over the surface of the bath without problems.

Enamel is divided into three main categories:

1. One-component composition. Effectively smoothes unevenness and fills cracks due to the paste-like consistency;
2. How to paint a cast iron bath? Two-component composition. The coating is well applied, but becomes dense after 6-7 days. The second component is a hardener, so the mixture must be thoroughly mixed before painting the bath with enamel;
3. Three-component composition, which includes: hardener, base and catalyst. It is supplied to stores complete with tools and instructions. Drying time up to 5 days. After its application to cast iron, it is impossible to contact and allow drafts.

You can paint the bathtub with enamel after holding the acrylic for at least a day at room temperature, and then mix it with a hardener.

Restoring the surface of a cast-iron bath with your own hands using enamel has some advantages:

1. It is not expensive to restore a bath;
2. The composition is suitable for cast iron, metal.

Of the disadvantages of painting a cast-iron bath with acrylic, the following can be distinguished:

• The service life of such a surface is not more than
  five years;
• The wear resistance of this composition is minimized;
• Enamel does not hide visible defects on a surface
  cast iron;
• After a few years, this enamel turns yellow and
  cracking.

The cast-iron bathtub inside at home can only be cleaned with mild detergents without the inclusion of abrasives. Too hot water can also destroy the surface of such a bath.

The bath inside at home needs to be restored:

• The temperature of the room where the work will be carried out should not exceed twenty degrees Celsius;
• Around and under the bath, it is necessary to lay a cellophane film, since the enamel is applied by pouring;
• Put under the drain hole tin can or an unnecessary container so that the enamel does not drip onto the floor.

Apply the enamel composition to the surface of the bath, preferably with a roller or brush.

bath liner

How can you paint a bath? This question may not be asked, because this restoration method is called “bath to bath”. In an old cast-iron bathtub, an insert is placed on the glue, which completely repeats the shape of the bathtub.

This method has the following advantages:

• The new coating consists of acrylic, which is able to withstand impacts, and is resistant to chemical attack by detergents;
• The surface does not change color over time;
• The bath is like new - smooth and radiant.

However, there are a couple of nuances when installing the liner in the bathroom. If the bathroom is made of thin cast iron, then in the future the deflection of the structure cannot be avoided, as a result of which the liner is deformed. Also before lining acrylic surface, the siphon is dismantled.
From the foregoing, we can conclude how and how to properly paint a cast-iron bathtub inside and out.

Required Tools

Painting an old cast-iron bath in an apartment by a specialist or with your own hands will not be effective without the following tools:

1. Sandpaper with different grain sizes;
2. Paint thinner (No. 646) or alcohol (White);
3. Putty waterproof;
4. Spatula made of rubber in order to carefully distribute the composition over the surface with your own hands;
5. Emulsion roller;
6. Painting a cast iron bath with an airbrush;
7. External side sander
   baths;
8. Paint brush to paint the bath yourself;
9. Drill;
10. Do-it-yourself enamel stirrer;
11. Separate container for cast iron paint (bucket or basin);
12. Container for diluting the primer;
13. Bathroom paint.

Separately, purchase protective gloves, eye goggles and a respirator.

Preparing the bath for painting

After the question of what paint to paint the bathtub has been sorted out and the final conclusion has been made, it is necessary to begin work on preparing the surface of the cast iron for applying the coloring composition.

Replacing a "killed" bathtub is an expensive business. It is wiser and more economical in terms of total costs to combine it with a bathroom renovation, but this is a long process. What if nice bath Do you need it now but don't have the money? Let's say you bought a second-hand apartment and went all out. Or there was a child. Or there are some other everyday circumstances that make you postpone the replacement of the bath for a long time. For example: the bathroom is well decorated, the bathtub is made of cast iron, capital, only there are rust stains in it and the enamel has peeled off in some places. In this case best option- painting the bath with your own hands.

In the case of a cast-iron bathtub in a decent bathroom, an alternative option is to install an acrylic liner in the bathtub (“bath within a bath”). This method has proven itself well and is widely used throughout the world.

But first, the liner ( acrylic insert) is not much cheaper than a new bath, but you cannot insert it yourself. The installation of bathtubs in bathtubs is carried out by companies that have necessary equipment and a staff of specialists.

Secondly, the acrylic insert is not painting, and therefore is not the subject of this article. Therefore, if you are in need of a deep renovation of an old bathroom,.

What do you need to paint a bathtub?

Can I paint my own bathroom? There are so many frightening warnings!

Knowledge and skills

You can paint the bath yourself if you have some skills painting works and know the basics of safety when working with volatile corrosive substances. If you had to repair a yacht or a boat, then you will not find anything new for yourself in the technology of painting a bathtub. You just need to stock up on protective equipment, tools and accessories. In addition, it is desirable to have the simplest plumbing skills.

protective equipment

• First protective agent- season of the year. All work on painting the bath should be done with the windows wide open, and send your family home for a week to the dacha or resort.
• Then, you will need a respirator. "Petal" is not suitable, you need a special one, with an organic absorber cartridge (MZ). A military or civilian gas mask is even more suitable.
• You will also need a rubberized or oilcloth apron and rubber gloves. You can use household latex, but two-layer (white inside; yellow or orange outside), just stock up on at least three sets.

Tools, accessories, consumables

1. Flat brush 70-90 mm, natural bristle only. It is better to buy two at once: if one accidentally falls and gets dirty, or comes into contact with something greasy, it will have to be thrown away immediately. And do not pull the bristles with your fingers: from any microparticle of grease, the paint will peel off in the future. It is best to immediately put the brushes in a new plastic bag and keep it there until work.
2. Grinding nozzle for a drill (cord brush) and Durex. Durex, or Durex circle - flexible, rubber or plastic based, grinding wheel. Both that, and another - with a shaft under a drill cartridge.

1. A paint knife and tweezers - you will need them to carefully, without touching your hands, remove the bristles that have come out of the brush. A new brush always "climbs", and the old one, which has already been painted, cannot be used.
2. From Supplies you will need about 0.5 liters of acetone or solvent No. 646. Never use white spirit, "Kalosha" or other solvents based on saturated hydrocarbons! You will also need a rag to leave a pile. It can be an old calico, flannel or cotton that has been stretched many times. Microfiber wipes for wiping glasses, 5-6 pcs, are very good, but they cost money, so it’s better to look for a suitable rag, and wash it again and rinse it well before use.

Coating selection

What color to paint the bath? There are only two options: enamel based on epoxy or acrylic resin.

• Epoxy enamel has been used for a long time, more than 20 years. At proper preparation baths and compliance with the application technology keeps the same amount; possibly last longer. The technology of preparation and application of epoxy enamel is quite complicated.
• Acrylic for the restoration of bathtubs is used relatively recently, less than 10 years. Seems to be as durable as epoxy. Apply acrylic enamel it’s easier, but it’s more difficult to prepare a ready-to-use compound: acrylic is very viscous, and the hardener, on the contrary, is liquid, so you need to mix for a long time and thoroughly. In addition, acrylic is more expensive, and you need to accurately maintain the proportion of resin with hardener.

In general, if you are a fairly experienced painter or yachtsman, you are better off working with epoxy. If you are just a neat person without solid working skills, then it is better to use acrylic.

"Ambulance" for a tin bath

A common case in life: a tin bath, and even lost weight, but still no money. How to be here? You will need a piece of fiberglass satin weave or old wife's tights. The piece should be large enough to close the fistula three or four times with a grip of 5-7 cm on the sides. Still need the most common epoxy glue.

First, the fiberglass is put to boil, and the tights are given to a thorough wash. It is necessary to boil the fiberglass to remove the paraffin residues that coat the fiberglass before weaving. Boil for an hour and a half, after 10-15 minutes carefully drain upper layer a third of water.

There is a lot in common in the specifics of repairing bathtubs and yachts: from the features of painting to methods of sealing holes

Meanwhile, a fistula with a chipped enamel and a space of 10-15 cm around them are treated with Durex until a shiny metal and a smooth run of the enamel to the metal. Then the dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner without a nozzle, and the treated area is degreased several times with acetone or a solvent until the rags no longer get dirty during degreasing. Then a piece of plastic film is applied outside and fixed crosswise with several tapes of adhesive tape.

Now we prepare epoxy glue, spread a fat-free area, apply a patch of fabric, 2-3 cm in size to the side of the chip, and pierce with an end brush until there are no bubbles. When the epoxy sets to a jelly-like state, apply a second layer of it and apply the next patch, larger than the first one (again with a grip of 2-3 cm to the sides). So you need to impose 2-5 patches. After the epoxy has completely cured, we remove the edges of the patches with the sandpaper flush; then - paint the bath.

Note: in addition to several bathtubs repaired in this way, which have been regularly serving for more than 10 years, the author of these lines knows a yacht that has been sailing safely for 8 years with a hole repaired in the same way, and for repairs it was necessary to run the ship aground, and use ... panties of passengers as the basis of the patches.

Preparing for painting

Preparing the bath for painting comes down to careful degreasing and creating a solid rough surface. Adhesion (sticking) of the repair compound significantly depends on the size of microroughnesses, and its resistance in the future depends on plasticity. Already from the pictures of the baths, on which the new enamel “climbed”, it is clear that thermal deformations were the root cause of the cracking. Therefore, we immediately give two pieces of advice:

Tip 1: for abrasive treatment of the bath, use emery No. 1. It will take longer to work, but if you first remove the streaks with a coarse sandpaper, and then smooth it to a dull finish with a fine one, there will be "micro-cavities" invisible to the eye, into which the enamel will not penetrate, but which will become places of accumulation of residual stresses and cracking centers.

Tip 2: when working with epoxy, in addition to the diluent (acetone or solvent), add 5% by volume of the plasticizer, dibutyl phthalate, to the ready-to-use compound; It is used as a mosquito repellent. This "secret" has long been well known to builders. small boats and other manufacturers of fiberglass products.

Bathroom preparation

Substances used for bath restoration contain volatile aggressive components. Therefore, before starting work, everything must be taken out of the bathroom, except for the bath itself and faience products (washbasin sinks, bidets, etc.). washing machine, it must be carefully wrapped plastic film, and seal the cracks in the wrapper with tape or masking tape. It is also necessary to protect nickel-plated taps; shower with hose - remove.

Surface cleaning

Preparation for painting a cast-iron bath begins with cleaning from surface contaminants. To do this, oxalic acid, pemolux, or another active detergent is poured onto the bottom of the bath in a path.

We slightly moisten the detergent track with water to make a slurry, and ordinary household sponge(new) smear it from the bottom along the walls to the top. This work, like all subsequent ones, must be done with open door bath, the windows of the apartment, in gloves and an apron. If used oxalic acid- also in a respirator (gas mask).

Keep the detergent slurry in the bath for 10-15 minutes, then rinse and fill the bath to the brim. Hold for another 15-20 minutes, drain the water. Now you can start sanding.

Abrasive treatment

As mentioned above, the purpose of abrasive processing is to create the desired microrelief on a clean surface. Therefore, it is impossible to leave rust stains: particles of iron oxide will later become centers of enamel cracking. If rust and dirt have eaten in so that you have to remove the factory enamel to the metal, it's okay, just not to wipe it through if the bath is tin.

First, remove the strapping of the drain and overflow holes. Then, with an electric drill with Durex or a cord brush, we smooth the surface to a matte finish and the absence of visible contamination. We check the roughness “on the nail”: the nail on a properly treated surface should “stretch” and not slide. Additionally, we check in the sliding light of an LED flashlight: there should be no glare spots

Dedusting and degreasing

Unlike previous operations, when dedusting, degreasing and painting, climb into the bath, and you can’t even touch its inner surface with your hands. The most difficult thing to do is when installing / dismantling the drain trim, so take a closer look in advance how you will be able to work bending over, with tweezers, pliers and platypus pliers.

Before degreasing, we collect dust with a vacuum cleaner; with a rag moistened with a solvent, we wipe the places around the drain holes “to a clean rag”, see above, and put the drain straps again.

Then, wearing gloves and an apron, pour 0.5 - 1 l of Sanoks or Adrilan into the bath (these are acid-based active detergents; pemolux is alkaline) and rub with a household sponge (again a new one) from the bottom to the edges in an even layer. A bath with acid grout should stand for an hour and a half.

For degreasing, only acid-based products are suitable. Alkaline "Pemolux" and other powders are not suitable for the described method.

Next, we fill the bath to the brim and also hold for an hour and a half. The bath gets quite hot. If it warms up a little, add another half-bottle-bottle of acid detergent. When the liquid in the bath cools noticeably, drain. To the drain plug, if there is no chain, for this you need to tie a fishing line in advance. After draining, we fill the bath again, hold it for an hour and a half, and drain it again, at least once again. If time endures (say, the family left for a week or two), we do washing “after sour” 3-5 times.

After washing, dry the bath with a household hair dryer. It is impossible to delay drying: after all, dust falls from the ceiling. We check the absence of fat with a shower, temporarily screwing the hose to the mixer: the water should envelop the surface in an even layer, without rolling in drops. Cleanliness is checked with a rag with a solvent, as described above. If the bathtub is clean “on a rag” and completely dry, we again disassemble the plumbing and you can paint.

Option 1: painting with epoxy enamel

Painting the bath with enamel begins with the preparation of the compound according to the instructions on the package. Enamels from different manufacturers differ in composition, so universal recipe not here. If according to the instructions it is required to heat the base before adding the hardener, heat it in a water bath; The temperature is controlled by the temperature of the water in the bath.

Important: Do not try to immediately "thump" the entire hardener into the base! Even if you have time to finish painting, a durable layer will still not work. Measure the base in portions of 250 ml, and divide the hardener into portions accordingly, preferably in advance. If, say, 1.5 liters of base is used, then the hardener must be divided into 6 parts. After adding the hardener, mix each portion thoroughly.

Important: Do not forget to add 12-14 ml of dibutyl phthalate to each portion of the finished enamel and, again, mix thoroughly.

Paint with a flute brush. Having abundantly moistened the brush, we carry out vertical stripe from the bottom to the edge, then rub, as far as possible, to the sides. We carry out the next strip in such a way that the horizontal grinding overlaps by 50%. We remove the bristles that have come out of the brush with a paint knife or tweezers. Never touch the painted surface with your hands!

After applying the first (primer) layer, wait 15-20 minutes, again, according to the manufacturer's instructions, and apply the second layer of enamel, STARTING FROM THE SAME PLACE AS THE FIRST, AND IN THE SAME DIRECTION. With this method of painting, the covering layer will lie on the primer in the same stage of gelatinization, and the coating will turn out to be uniform in structure.

At the end of the painting, we lock the bathroom for 3-7 days. The longer the period of time from complete hardening of the enamel to the first wash, the less likely it is to peel off in the future.

About flows and influxes

With both methods of painting, especially with epoxy enamel, streaks and sagging are formed. Their formation must be controlled after 10-15 minutes for epoxy enamel and after 3-5 minutes for acrylic. The streaks are removed with a brush stroke UP until smearing. After the enamel has hardened, the sags on the edges of the drain holes are cut off with a painting or mounting knife. It may be necessary to install new cuffs or gaskets in order to install the drain piping after restoration - after all, the drain holes will become narrower, and their wall thickness will increase.

Option 2: acrylic painting

Painting a bathtub with acrylic is easier than epoxy enamel. Can be painted with both brush and roller. The best way is in a tapering elongated spiral from the edges to the drain. Just make sure there are no bubbles. If the bubble does not collapse within 1-2 minutes, it is pierced with a brush. If desired, a second layer can be applied after the first one has dried.

But, as mentioned above, portions of the acrylic compound after adding the hardener must be stirred very carefully. And keep in mind - dibutyl phthalate as a plasticizer is only suitable for epoxy. You can't add it to acrylic.

Note: acrylic compound for painting bathtubs goes on sale under the name "stakryl".

Video: an example of acrylic bath restoration

They are afraid of one thing - enamel damage. How to paint a cast-iron bathtub and what is the best way to do it if you have damaged its inner coating? In this article you will find 3 possible options With step by step instructions and all their pluses and minuses, as well as a description of the "bath to bath" method.

When do you need to paint a cast iron bath?

Painting a cast-iron bathtub is needed in two cases:

1. The enamel is mechanically damaged and cracks have gone along it.
2. The enamel turned yellow over time or due to improper operation (exposure to toxic household chemicals or other reagents), too active cleaning during washing.

Cast iron bath restoration options

A cast iron bath can be restored in 4 ways:

1. Paint.
2. Cover with epoxy enamel.
3. Cover with acrylic.
4. Bath to bath.

We will consider all these methods in more detail below.

Cast iron bath painting

The most logical method of restoration to the layman seems to be painting the bathroom.

Pros of this method:

• the cheapest;
• simple enough;
• can be dyed in any color.

• smell;
• dents and chips on the surface of the bath will still be noticeable;
• will last from 10 months to a couple of years if used quality paint and apply it correctly.

Paint selection

Not any paint is suitable for restoring a bathroom by painting, as there will be constant contact with water, temperature changes and mechanical friction of the surface. You will need a special paint and you can find it among such manufacturers:

• Dulux (Great Britain) is a leading manufacturer of paint and varnish coatings. For painting the bathtub, you should stop at "DuluxRealifeKitchen&Bathroom";
• Tikkurila (Finland) is a manufacturer of paints known for its quality. For the bathroom, take the Luja staining system (primer + paint);
• Jobi (Germany) – good quality at an affordable price. For bathroom painting, opt for JobiWaschFest. This paint is moisture resistant and is designed for rooms with special conditions, which can definitely include the bathroom.

You can, of course, paint regular paint, but such a coating will last from the strength of one to two weeks. It is unlikely that you are counting on such a short effect from the restoration, so it is better not to save on paint and buy high-quality one right away.

Required Tools

To paint a bath you will need:

• roller or brush made of natural bristles 70-90 mm wide. If you prepare two, it will be even more convenient, because if the brush gets dirty during the painting process (especially in something greasy), then you cannot continue working with it;
• drill with a grinding nozzle;
• a paint knife and tweezers - for caring for a brush when bristles come out of it (this is quite normal for a new one);
• acetone or thinner No. 646. Others do not use!;
• cotton rags, coarse calico, flannel or microfiber cloths. The main thing is that there is no pile.

Coloring process

The staining process can be divided into 3 stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Direct staining.
3. Drying paint.

Preparation for staining

Preparatory work for the restoration of the bath is to remove dirt from the surface. This is best done with alkaline household chemicals. After using it, the bath should be rinsed well and wiped dry.

alkaline household chemicals burns the skin, so you should work with it in rubber gloves.

Next, degreasing is carried out with a special chemical composition. You can take a car. Alternatively, you can use regular Fairy dishwashing detergent, but it will need to be left for some time (20-30 minutes) on the surface of the bathtub and then washed. The procedure will need to be repeated 2-3 times.

You can check whether you have degreased well with a jet of water. If when pouring water on the walls from the shower, you do not see drops or streaks, then the fight against fat on the surface can be considered complete.

On this preparatory work do not end. You need to remove the layer of enamel or paint that is currently covering your bathtub. This is done using an electric drill with a special grinding nozzle. It is allowed to remove the entire enamel or only the top layer - your choice.

Before applying paint to the surface, it must be cleaned of dust and dried. Drying can be done with a hair dryer or by waiting - the bath will dry itself in a few hours. After that, a primer is applied. It can be applied with a brush, roller or flexible spatula.

Painting a cast iron bath

The process of painting the bath should begin after the final drying of the primer. First you need to paint the sides. The paint is applied in a thick layer and gradually flows down the sides. The sides of the bathroom are painted in the same way, but taking into account the paint already on its surface. Try to make the layer after "draining" as even as possible. Painting the bottom of the bathroom consists in distributing the paint that has dripped from the top.

The whole process of staining will take you quite a lot of time and effort, so start it at a time when you have the greatest efficiency.

You can paint the bathroom with paint using a roller - it will be faster and more convenient.

After painting the bathroom, it is necessary to close it for 10-12 hours, and preferably for a day. This is necessary to prevent dust from entering the painted and still wet surface. The process of final drying of the paint takes 2-5 days. It is highly undesirable to use the bathroom until this moment.

Bathtub restoration with epoxy enamel

Most old way restoration of cast-iron bathtubs is the application of new enamel. It has been widely used for over 20 years. The process of applying enamel is somewhat reminiscent of the painting we examined, but the composition is completely different. There are only 2 categories of compositions: professional and for self-restoration.

Professional epoxy enamel formulations are more liquid. They are applied in several layers, so the process is quite long and laborious. Do-it-yourself formulations are thicker and easier to work with.

Bath enamel, which is sold in aerosol cans, is easy to apply, but it will last a maximum of a year.

Advantages of bathtub restoration with epoxy enamel:

• a fairly cheap way;
• no need to dismantle the bathroom;
• suitable not only for cast iron, but also for steel baths.

The disadvantages of this method:

• dries for a long time (up to a week);
• long and laborious process;
• bad smell;
• the coating is very sensitive to shock;
• the service life of a new enamel rarely exceeds 5 years;
• does not cover dents and chips;
• even if everything is in order with the enamel and you have not damaged it in any way, after a few years it will turn yellow.

Enamel bath restoration tools

To restore a bathtub with epoxy enamel, you will need:

• spray gun or roller, if professional enamel is used, or a flute brush, if enamel is for self-application;
• a paint knife and tweezers will be required to carefully remove the brush hairs that have come out;

enameling process

The process of applying enamel to the surface of the bathroom can be divided into the following stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Direct application of enamel.
3. Drying.

Preparatory work

The preparatory work is the same as when painting with bathroom paint, so we will not repeat them. You can read above.

Enamel application

Enamel before application should be prepared according to the instructions on the package. You do not need to immediately mix the entire composition, do it in batches, as it starts to set quite quickly (40-45 minutes), and applying in 2 layers takes quite a long time.

If you apply a professional composition, then you can use the spray gun. But for home application, it is still better to choose special mixtures that are thicker and suitable for application with a regular flute brush.

To apply enamel to the surface of the bath, moisten the brush with plenty of water and draw a vertical strip from the bottom to the edge. After that, rub the enamel on the sides as hard as you can. The next strip should be drawn side by side so that its “rubbing” is enough to reach the already treated area, and by repeated rubbing you cover about half of the previous strip. So, with an overlap, the first layer is applied. Wait 15-20 minutes and apply the next one.

The second layer is applied from the same place as the first. The direction of application must exactly match the first layer. Only in this way the coating will turn out beautiful and uniform.

How to remove streaks and sagging of enamel during application?

During the application of enamel on the walls of the bathroom, streaks and sagging of the material often form. Their appearance should be controlled. Usually they become noticeable 10-15 minutes after application, so keep an eye on the areas covered while working.

To remove streaks, it is necessary to make a brush stroke without material up to the place of smearing. The sags that form on the edges of the drain holes must be removed after the enamel has hardened. For this, a painting or mounting knife is used.

When is the bath ready for use?

After applying the enamel, it is necessary to close the bathroom for 3-7 days, until the new coating is completely dry. The longer you pause before the first use, the less likely the enamel will peel off.

Bathtub restoration with acrylic

One of the most modern ways to restore the enamel of the bath - restoration with acrylic. On sale you can find it under the name "Stakril".

Advantages of the method:

• with proper application and careful operation, such a coating can last you 10 years or more;
• a professional performs such work in 2-3 hours. You will need more time, but the process itself is easier than with enamel;
• attractive appearance - after application and drying you will see a smooth glossy finish;
• no unpleasant odor.

Disadvantages of the method:

• if in some place the acrylic layer is scratched to the bottom, then it will very quickly begin to collapse and lag behind the surface;
• the cost is higher than with enamel coating;
• drying takes 2-3 days.

Acrylic Bath Restoration Tools

To restore a bathtub with acrylic you will need:

• flute brush or roller;
• flexible spatula;
• a paint knife and tweezers for carefully removing brush hairs that have come out;
• drill with a grinding nozzle.

acrylic application process

The process of applying acrylic can be divided into 3 stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Direct application of acrylic.
3. Drying acrylic.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to the methods described above. Read more about this in the section on painting with paint.

Enamel application

Acrylic is more liquid than homemade enamel, so it is most convenient to apply it using the pouring method in a tapering spiral from the edges of the tub to the drain. Be very careful! Unfilled fragments can be filled with material using a flexible spatula. With its help, the edges of the bath and its bottom are leveled.

If during the application process bubbles appeared that did not burst themselves, then they must be pierced gently with a brush.

The second method of applying acrylic is similar to painting. For application, a brush or roller is used.

When is the bath ready for use?

After applying acrylic, it is necessary to close the bathroom for 2-3 days so that dust and other dirt do not get on the surface before drying.

Bath to bath restoration

The “bath-to-bath” restoration method consists in installing a new acrylic liner inside the old cast-iron bath, which completely repeats its shape.

Advantages of the method:

• perfectly even coverage;
• durable acrylic;
• service life - about 15 years;
• no unpleasant odor;
• can be used already on the first day after installation;
• the surface will not turn yellow.

Disadvantages of the method:

• high price. Especially if your bath custom sizes and will require individual production of the liner;
• impossible to do on your own;
• the mounting foam with which the insert is attached can move and then cracks will appear;
• possible detachment of the liner and the appearance of an unpleasant musty smell due to the constant formation of condensate between the liner and the bath;
• it will not be possible to make repeated restoration or repair;
• during installation, you will have to dismantle part of the wall covering at the edges of the bath.

1. To clean the bath at the preparation stage, do not use compounds with chlorine.
2. It is better to paint the bath with paint and enamel in the warm season, so that it is possible to ventilate the apartment or house.
3. Before applying paint, primer, enamel or acrylic, remove the cuffs and seal the hole with masking tape.
4. During the painting process, do not touch the bristles of the brush with your hands. From any fat, the paint departs faster in the future. Better stock up on a few brushes for work.
5. In no case do not touch the bath with your hands while applying paint, enamel or acrylic!
6. After the restoration of the bath with enamel or acrylic, it is necessary to replace the cuffs and gaskets, as the drain holes will become narrower, and the walls of the bathroom will become thicker.
7. To bath with acrylic coated served you longer, apply 2 layers of material. Then it will be more difficult to scratch through it.
8. Acrylic liner can only be installed in high-quality cast-iron bathtubs. It is not suitable for bathtubs made of "light cast iron" with thin walls.

Whether it is worth restoring the bath and how exactly to do it - the owner of the bathroom and the plumbing item decides. Of course, no restoration lasts forever, but if there is no money to buy a new one, and you want to take hygiene procedures in comfort, then you definitely should do it!

A bath is an essential item in every home. However, in the process of its operation, it loses its pervoz. this species. In this case, the bath needs either replacement or restoration. The second option is less expensive, but for its implementation, it is necessary to study the technology of painting the bath. We will consider how to paint a bathtub with enamel further.

Types of bathtubs with enamel coating

There are several ways that you can use to restore an old bath. Before proceeding to study them, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the types of bathtubs that are most popular among buyers:

1. A cast iron bath is a traditional option. Among their advantages are:

• duration of operation - this type of bath will last you much longer than other alternatives, in addition, a cast-iron enameled bath can not lose its attractiveness for at least ten years;
• low thermal conductivity, if you fill such a bath with hot water, then it will remain hot for a long time;
• high strength characteristics- due to its composition, cast iron is characterized by excellent reliability, it is not prone to cracking, bending or deformation;
• ease of operation is another very significant advantage of a cast iron bath, cast iron is covered with a special layer of enamel that does not accumulate dirt and is easily cleaned by a variety of means;
• aesthetic appearance - this advantage carried out primarily due to the fact that the bath does not accumulate dirt and does not lose its original appearance.

2. A bathtub made of steel has its own advantages. Among them are:

• affordable cost compared to cast iron, steel baths are cheaper;
• lightness of weight, and, accordingly, simplification installation work, the mass of a bathtub from a flock is four times less than that of a cast-iron structure;
• heating speed, despite the fact that cast iron bath it keeps heat for a very long time, it is quite difficult to heat it, but a steel bath is characterized by fast heating, this condition is very important when it is necessary to bathe small children;
• high level of hygiene - another advantage of a steel bath, due to the absence of pores in the enamel coating, such a bath is not able to accumulate dirt, it is easy to clean;
• due to high ductility, steel baths are distinguished by a variety of shapes, sizes and configurations;
• preservation of whiteness and brilliance for many years allows the bath to be used for a very long time, without repair and restoration.

Among the disadvantages of steel baths note:

• the possibility of deformation due to high loads;
• the need for grounding;
• rapid cooling;
• an unpleasant noise that appears at the moment when the bath is filled with water;
• the inability to clean the bath using aggressive cleaning compounds.

The main ways to restore the bath: their characteristics

There are several ways to apply enamel to the surface of the bathroom. The choice of one or another staining method depends on the type and characteristics of the materials used in the process of work.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the first option for restoring a bathroom, which is called ordinary enamelling. After ten or twelve years from the date of purchase of an enamel bath, they need additional enamel coating.

The factory conditions in which an enameled bathtub is made simplify the process of applying enamel to a bathtub made of steel or cast iron. First, heating outer surface until the bath turns red. Next, enamel-based powder is sieved on the inner surface, after a certain time the powder is combined with metal surface. Thus, the factory coating is distinguished by evenness, uniformity, the presence of a glossy sheen and an attractive appearance. However, for home conditions, this method is unacceptable.

Damage to the enamel layer occurs for the following reasons:

• frequent use of abrasive chemical compositions or powders for cleaning the surface of the bath from dirt;
• usage chemical substances with which to clear sewer system, but which adversely affect the bath.

Thus, if these two factors constantly, over the course of many years, affect the bath, its enamel gradually loses its strength and begins to flake off, crack and become dirty.

In order to restore the enamel coating of the bathroom, you must first prepare the surface for applying enamel, and then paint it.

To perform these steps, you will need:

• an electric drill that has an attachment such as a grinding wheel;
• abrasive powder;
• sandpaper;
• agent that converts rust;
• degreasing agents;
• napkins, without lint;
• brushes that have natural bristles;
• atomizer;
• gloves
• protective mask for work;
• enamel, preferably with a two-component composition, in which there is a substance for curing.

The first stage of work on the bathroom involves preparing its surface for work. The final result of the work and the duration of its further operation depend on the thoroughness of cleaning the bathroom. In order to prepare the bath for staining, follow the following steps:

1. Sprinkle the surface of the bath with an abrasive powder. After a certain time, use sandpaper and a grinding wheel to remove old enamel.

2. Treat rusty spots on the bathroom with transforming agents. Wait about 30 minutes and continue working.

4. Then the enamel layer and all the crumbs are washed off.

5. Using a fat splitter and a napkin, it is necessary to clean the bathroom from foreign particles.

6. Run into the bath hot water and heat it up for 15 minutes.

7. Drain the water and wait for the bath to dry, to speed up the process, use all the same lint-free wipes.

8. The surface must be perfectly clean without foreign inclusions or enamel residue.

Enameling bathtubs is the next stage of work. For correct application enamel, use the instructions below:

1. If you plan to use enamel, which contains two components, then first they are connected, and then the bath is covered with enamel.

2. To apply the first coat of paint, use a brush or sprayer.

4. Then the bath is covered with another layer of enamel.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel with your own hands: the second method of restoration

This method of restoring the bath is not as popular as the previous one. This is due to the fact that the material used in its implementation appeared on the market several years ago. This substance is called staracryl. It appears as a two-component substance used exclusively for the purpose of restoring bathtubs.

The material consists of the acrylic itself and the component that cures it. In the process of combining these two components, polymerization occurs, after covering the bath with it, it acquires a uniform texture in the form of a film, with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6 cm.

Among the advantages of painting with enamel in the form of staracryl, it should be noted:

• a high level of viscosity, thanks to which all work is carried out easily and simply, also, this advantage helps to cover the surface with a sufficiently thick layer;
• good flow characteristics - the material covers the bath uniformly;
• the presence of delayed polymerization, that is, after the acrylic itself is combined with a hardener, it does not polymerize instantly, but after a certain time, so the person working with it applies the material to the surface, and then it hardens in the bath;
• in addition, after the acrylic hardens, the surface is characterized by high mechanical characteristics and impact strength.

How to enamel a bath with staracryl:

1. The first stage also involves preparing the bathroom for applying the composition. It consists in the same actions as in the previous version. However, after heating the bathroom and drying it, it is necessary to disconnect the siphon, and instead of the stack, some kind of reservoir should be installed into which excess enamel will fall.

2. The second stage is the direct application of paint to the surface of the bathroom. To begin with, you should study the instructions from the manufacturer, in it you will find detailed description enamel preparation process. Next you have to color. However, its implementation is very different from the previous version. This method is also called bulk, as the paint is gradually poured onto the surface, starting from the edge and moving towards the middle.

3. After closing the circle, you should once again repeat the process of pouring enamel. Please note that the whole process must be continuous, so when preparing the paint, use a container large enough to cover the entire bathtub.

4. Don't skimp on paint, it's better to throw out a little more material than undercoat the surface. If the bath is not covered with a uniform and monolithic layer, then the process of its operation will be significantly reduced.

5. For acrylic curing, wait 3 to 5 days. The longer it takes for the acrylic to dry, the longer your bath will last. It is on this basis that you should choose paint in the store.

After painting the bath using this method, it will last you at least 15 years.

The third method of applying enamel to the bath

To perform this method, use the instructions:

1. Use pemolux, wash the bath well with it. Replace given substance can any composition that has aggressive properties. First of all, after completing this process, the bath must be absolutely fat-free.

2. Next, the surface is polished using a grinder. Please note that in the absence of experience with this tool, it is better to give preference sandpaper as there is a risk of damage to the surface of the tub.

4. Using a regular hair dryer, dry the bath. Please note that its drain part needs additional drying. Do not use a heat gun on the bathtub, as it works at a high enough temperature that can also damage the surface.

5. Remove the drain from the bath, place any container under it. Completely clean the bath of dust with a vacuum cleaner.

The next step involves the implementation of enameling. Divide the paint into two parts. The first part will be used to apply the base coat, using a stiff bristle brush, start work. Please note that Special attention it is necessary to give the bottom of the bath, as it is most susceptible to mechanical stress.

Immediately after applying the first layer, start applying the second. This technology called "wet on wet". After that, the surface is left alone for 10 minutes. If there are smudges on the bath, you should get rid of them; for these purposes, use a brush. After the bath dries, it is connected to the sewerage system and its operation begins.

The choice of enamel for the bathroom: what composition to give preference to

The process of painting the bathtub is preceded by the procedure for selecting materials for the work. We propose to dwell on expensive compositions, as they have higher performance characteristics.

In addition, you should pay attention to the drying time of the composition, the higher it is, the stronger the acrylic layer will be on the surface. Acrylic-based compositions do not differ in a variety of colors, in this matter one should be guided by individual preferences. Try not to choose bathroom enamel that differs from the old layer by more than one shade. Otherwise, there is a risk of transillumination old surface and the appearance of heterogeneous inclusions on the surface of the bathroom.

If, nevertheless, you decide to repaint the yellow bathtub in a snow-white color, then we recommend buying a little more paint and applying it in several layers. Also, when choosing enamel, be sure to read the instruction manual and compare it with your capabilities.

Tip: Prepare the two-component composition for work only after the bath has been cleaned of old enamel, washed and dried.

It is possible to use bath aerosols, but the duration of operation of such a coating does not exceed five years. Therefore, it is better to spend a little more money and effort so that the enameled bathtub will serve you for at least 10 years.

Paint the bath with enamel with your own hands video: