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Currently, closers for plastic doors are popular. They found wide application in areas with high traffic of visitors. The main function of the door closer is to smoothly close the doors and thereby increase the service life of the door fittings.
The advantage of the design is that it provides silent door closing.
You can install a regular spring, but this will not protect you from being hit on the back at the moment of closing it, if you suddenly lose your guard.
Installation of the closer is not difficult. The main requirement is to comply with the manufacturer's recommendations, to properly assemble the structure, observing all the stages.
Consider all types of door closers:
The third option is to install a door closer on the door leaf, and mount the lever with a special plate to the frame.
Before considering how to install the door closer on plastic door, we have dealt with their types. The most common is the top closer, and we will disassemble it in the future.
Usually the plastic door opens towards itself. Having understood the technique, you can not only mount the closer, but also put a similar device on any other door, in an individual way. Installation differences are quite minor. Let's describe the installation process in stages:
After completing all the points of the instructions step by step, the question "How to install a door closer on a plastic door with your own hands?" will disappear by itself. Only if there is no template with the purchased kit, installation should be carried out adhering to the drawing that is attached to the device passport, all dimensions are included.
Having installed a closer, you need to master the basics of adjusting the device. When installing the structure, you cannot bypass the two screws that regulate the operation of the device:
To avoid a big impact of the door on the frame, the second screw should be tightened. This is done in smooth movements, every couple of turns, it is necessary to check the degree of readiness. We slow down the movement of the door by twisting the screw clockwise, accelerate it counterclockwise. Debug the closing in the same way.
Certain types of door closers contain a large number of screws for adjustment. This is the case when there are additional functions. There are only four of them: two additional screws adjust the brake when opening, limit the too sharp opening of the doors, fix the door in open form when opening at a certain angle, the door does not close, which is very convenient in the right case.
Do not stay open, put a closer. Previously, a stretched thick spring was responsible for this action. The disadvantage was the sharp slamming of the sash. Modern products smoothly close the door leaf and ensure its snug fit to the door frame. The design of the mechanism is simple. However, the specifics of installing door closers of different models are different.
To select and install a closer, you need to take into account the device of the product. By place of installation the following models are distinguished:
Models differ transfer of force from the working spring to the linkage:
Closers differ internal device:
The hydraulic ones are usually equipped with link arms and are the most popular models.
In the building, the automatic closer is placed on entrance doors from the side of the room. The body of the mechanism must be protected from the aggressive effects of adverse weather conditions... There are open-air models that are not afraid of frost and rain, but they are also better placed from the side of the room. If necessary, you can install a closer on the wicket or gate.
When choosing a model for installing a door closer, the width and weight of the sash are taken into account. All products are classified according to the EN 1154 standard. An incorrectly selected model will quickly fail or create certain difficulties in closing the door. The door closers are divided into seven grades with the designation EN 1 - EN 7. Each class is designed for a specific sash weight and width.
The width and weight of the door does not always match the data specified in the standard classification. The product is selected according to the maximum indicator. You can install an automatic closer, where the specification indicates the permissible maximum and minimum limits. The manufacturer specifies the force range, for example, EN 2– EN 4.
For outdoor installation, select special street models. If the product is intended for indoor use, the viscosity of the oil will change in cold weather, the hydraulic system will stop working normally, which will create certain difficulties in opening the door.
The standard functions of all door closers include adjusting the speed and force of the leaf movement in the 180-15 ° and 15-0 ° sectors. Models with additional functions allow:
The whole process of installing a door closer with your own hands consists of three steps ... First, the installation scheme is determined, but it depends on door leaf opening directions:
With any installation scheme, the adjusting bolts point towards the awnings.
The second step is to study the instructions. Inside the product packaging, you need to find a closer installation diagram drawn on a 1: 1 scale. Sample applied to the door and mark the exact attachment points.
The third step involves itself installation consisting of the following:
The set includes fasteners, allowing you to install the closer on a plastic door or any other material. Self-tapping screws usually differ, for example, for wood and metal.
On the non-standard doors it is not always possible to set the mechanism according to the template. For such cases, auxiliary elements are used:
Auxiliary mounting elements can be supplied with the product, but usually the corners and plates are bought separately.
After installing the door closer, adjustments are made, the knee lever at this time should be located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the canvas. The automatic door closer is adjusted with screws located on the mechanism body. After each turning with a screwdriver in the directions indicated by the arrows, the sash travel speed is tested.
The latching mode is regulated in two zones of door opening: 180–15 ° and 15–0 °. Do not completely loosen the screws. Depressurization of the housing may occur, followed by oil leakage.
The automatic closer does not limit the opening of the sash. To prevent the mechanism from breaking, a stop is installed that does not allow the door to swing open strongly. For models with a slide lever, the stopper is mounted in the guide channel.
Blocking the door in the open state with various struts or manual force to quickly close the sash wears out the mechanism, and sometimes even breaks out parts. When installed outdoors, the door closer body is protected from rain and sun by a visor. To extend the service life, all moving parts are lubricated.
If the doors are free from defects and the conditions of use are observed, the door closer will serve the time guaranteed by the manufacturer.
The oldest door mechanism the final slam of the door was a cobblestone tied to a jamb on a string. Then humanity, unwilling to bother itself, replaced the cobblestone with a spring, the ends of which were attached to the box and to the canvas. The spring, imparting an impulse not only to the door, but also to not too nimble backs, still serves as the main element in most modifications of door closers. Only her work became smooth and controlled due to the implementation special devices... That's why home master you need to know how to install an improved mechanism, and how to adjust the door closer, if you decide to equip your property with automation for lazy users with your own hands.
Installing a mechanical device that smoothly closes the door reduces the load on the fittings, protects the hinges and the structure itself from premature wear. You can equip them with both the entrance and interior door, and a door between the house and the sauna extension or garage.
Differences in the installation method determined the classification of door closers, which are divided into:
The simplest and most accessible for an inexperienced performer will be the overhead installation of a door closer, the process of which in most cases is described in detail by the manufacturer. Caring manufacturers are now adding to their products not only detailed description, but also a template that exactly repeats the contour of the mechanism with clear marking of the attachment points. Almost all actions are carried out according to the standard algorithm, but there are nuances that should not be forgotten.
Attention. Before equipping the door with a device, it must be repaired and the fittings adjusted. The canvas should not "shuffle" on the floor, hang crookedly on the hinges. The movement of the loops should not be heavy.
Mechanisms with levers or with sliding channels can be attached both from the inside and from the outside of the interior door structure... It is undesirable to install the device only on the outer side of the entrance doors due to negative impact characteristic changes in atmospheric temperature.
The fact is that the smoothness of the spring operating the lever provides a variable flow of engine oil from one cavity to another. And it becomes more viscous and thick in cold weather, and more liquid in heat. Therefore, due to temperature fluctuations, it will be necessary to regulate the operation of the device more often than indicated by the manufacturer, which ultimately reduces the operating resource of the system.
There are three common mounting patterns to choose from:
The installation scheme of the door closer depends on the hinge arrangement option. That is, from the direction of movement of the web when opening / closing. If the door is opened "towards itself", then the device is mounted on the canvas as standard, and the lever is attached to the box beam. The option "from oneself" obviously assumes the upper attachment of the device to the lintel with the fixation of the lever on the canvas.
There are also non-standard cases, such as, for example, insufficient door clearance height. But cunning developers found a way out of constructive difficult situations, suggesting home and professional craftsmen mounting angles and plates.
Installation of a door closer in such cases is carried out in parallel in two ways:
Sliding arm devices attract with their optimized design, which practically does not interfere with the decor of the interior. Among the advantages is the ability to upgrade the device with an electromagnetic lock or a fire alarm. Such closers function with great effort, and there is no way to control their work, but equipping with an elastic stop-insert will allow you to set the required opening angle of the sash. Most of the modifications are installed according to schemes similar to the above-described perpendicular option. But universal models with sliding channel traction can be mounted on both sides.
Attention. Installation of channel (slide) door closers from the side, the opposite side of the location door hinges, dictates equipping the device with a web opening angle limiter. It can be replaced by a specialized stopper built into the slider.
After deliberately choosing the correct location and defining the circuit, next steps are performed in almost identical sequence:
Attention. The adjusting screws must be directed towards the hinge bar of the box.
Fasteners in complete set attached by the manufacturer, you do not need to buy or change it for other hardware. It is important not to deviate one iota from the instructions, and success is assured.
After connecting the rod and the main working body into a single mechanism, it remains to know how to adjust door closer... This procedure is usually carried out by adjusting two adjusting screws. Two screws are needed to set the web speed in two modes:
The required speed is set by turning the screws along and against the thread. You probably won't have to make more than one turn.
Attention. Do not adjust the belt speed too hard. Two turns will lead to leakage, loosening of the screw with oil leakage.
If the door is equipped with door closers with additional functions, such as:
After making sure that the speed characteristics meet the desires, and the movement is completed with the required "latching" or "squeezing", we close the closer axis with a decorative cap.
Now the work can be considered completed and you can start using the automatically closing door. The closing mechanism will function properly if children do not swing on the doors, if the support devices and unreasonable hands, always trying to slam or slow down, will not interfere with the normal operation of the closer. Subject to the rules of operation, the device will last a long time.
To prevent the doors from staying open, they used to use a banal spring, today they put a door closer. Its design is also based on a spring, but it is more powerful, hidden in metal case and filled with oil - for "braking" when closing. Installing a door closer is a simple task. Self-installation will take 20-30 minutes. Hardly more. So we take a drill and set it up with our own hands.
According to the world standards EN 1154, door closers are classified according to the closing force they can generate. They are divided into 7 classes, which are designated EN1-EN7. When choosing a class, attention is paid to the inertia of the door, that is, to the width of its door leaf and its mass at the same time. If different parameters of the door correspond to different classes, they put a device of a higher class.
Door closer class | Width door leaf, mm | Door leaf weight, kg |
---|---|---|
EN1 | up to 750 mm | up to 20 kg |
EN2 | up to 850 mm | up to 40 kg |
EN3 | up to 950 mm | up to 60 kg |
EN4 | up to 1100 mm | up to 80 kg |
EN5 | up to 1250 mm | up to 100 kg |
EN6 | up to 1400 mm | up to 120 kg |
EN7 | up to 1600 mm | up to 160 kg |
For example, the width of the door is EN2 and the weight is EN4. They put the 4th grade, since a weaker effort with the load will not cope.
There are door closers belonging to the same class. The characteristics then indicate the class with one digit - EN5. They have a small range of effort adjustment - within the same class. There are devices, the closing force of which is regulated within several groups. In this case, a range is put in the marking, separated by a hyphen - EN2-3, for example. The latter are more convenient to use - you can adjust the closing speed depending on the weather. But the cost of such models is higher.
The main structural element of a door closer is a spring that pushes the lever. According to the method of transferring force from the spring to the lever, there are two types of devices:
Both of these types consist of two parts: a body in which a spring is hidden and a force transmitting mechanism and a lever. They are mounted at the top of the door: one part on the canvas, the second on the frame. Which one, where, depends on the direction of opening. If the doors are opened "towards themselves", a body with a mechanism is installed on the door leaf; when opening "away from you", a lever is attached. The photo shows a lever-type door closer, but the installation rules are similar for models with a sliding channel.
As you can imagine, they are not suitable for all types of doors - putting them on glass is problematic. There is another design for them - floor-standing. The housing with the mechanism is mounted in the floor, only the holder plate protrudes from above. A similar holder is installed at the top, but the mechanism is not always there, only for heavy door leaves.
There are, by the way, floor models for wooden and metal doors. They also have a linkage or sliding channel. They are less conspicuous, but with this arrangement they are more likely to be damaged.
Generally, closers are installed on external or entrance doors, they can be installed on a gate or a wicket. In the case of doors, they are positioned so that the body is in the room. Although there are frost-resistant models designed for cold exploitation, it is better that the case is protected from the effects of weather conditions. Also, this arrangement guarantees great safety.
To mount the door closer, you only need a drill, ruler, pencil and screwdriver. The drill usually requires a "3" (three), but you need to look at the diameter of the fasteners, which usually come with the kit.
Most of the manufacturers, to facilitate self installation door closer, completes products with installation templates. These templates show schematically parts of the closer in full size. They also have mounting holes for each element. In models that can create an opening force of a different class, holes are drawn different colors, additionally they are signed - the door closer class is placed next to it.
The template is printed on both sides of the sheet. On one side - for opening doors "towards yourself" - from the hinge side (pictured above), on the other - "away from you".
The template has two perpendicular red stripes. We combine the horizontal one with the upper edge of the door leaf, the vertical one with the line of the hinge axis.
Everything is clear with the upper edge of the door leaf, but in order not to make mistakes during installation, the line of the axis of the hinges must be drawn. If a closer is installed on the hinge side, there are no problems - using a long ruler and a pencil, move the line of the middle of the hinges up. If the installation will be carried out on the other side, measure the distance from the edge of the web to the middle of the loop. Mark this distance on the other side and draw a line.
On the template, we find the marks for the holes according to the selected class. Using a drill or an awl, we transfer them to the door leaf and to the frame.
Usually, the kit includes two types of fasteners: for metal (metal-plastic) and wood. We select a drill of a suitable size and drill holes in the indicated places with a drill.
Door closers are equipped with two types of fasteners - for metal and wooden doors
Further, the actual installation of the door closer begins. Please note that installation requires that the body and levers are disconnected. If they are assembled, they are separated (the washer is unscrewed, the screw connecting the levers and the body is removed).
We attach the parts to the holes made, install the fasteners. On the diagram, we find the class of the opening effort that we need (in in this case EN2) and install the parts as shown in the figure.
To open "towards yourself" we put the body on the door leaf, we install the pull rod on the frame.
Now you need to connect the traction lever to the body. There is a special protrusion at the bottom of the case. We put a lever on it, tighten it with a screw.
Now it remains to connect the lever to the rod. There are two options.
The very connection of the lever with the traction is very simple: the two parts are combined, they are slightly pressed down by the fingers. They snap into place with a light click. The trick is how to position them relative to the door. The rate of movement of the door leaf at the final stage of closing depends on this. The position can be changed due to the fact that the link consists of two parts and can be adjusted in length - one of the link parts is a long threaded pin. By rotating the pin and shorten or lengthen it.
If you just need a smooth finishing, the rod is placed so that it is perpendicular to the door leaf. To do this, slightly reduce its size (in the photo on the left).
If a latch is installed in the door, a solid effort is required to overcome its resistance. For this option, a shoulder is placed perpendicular to the door (the traction is untwisted, making it longer).
After placing the parts in the appropriate way, they are combined and connected. Actually everything, the installation of the door closer is completed. And you can handle it with your own hands, and without much difficulty. The final stage remains - setting the closing speed. To do this, you need to understand the door closers adjustments.
Frost-resistant models that can be used outside are suitable for installation on a wicket. But not all wickets have a top bar. But everyone has side racks. In this case, the tie rod is attached to the side post by expanding the mounting plate along the post.
But hydraulic devices (they were discussed in this article) do not feel very well in the cold. Oil, which is poured into the body and serves to "brake" the door leaf, becomes more viscous, the gate closes more slowly. From this point of view, it is better to choose a pneumatic model for a wicket (about selection and installation).
Installation of the closer on metal doors differs only in the type of fasteners used and the size of the drill. Since the canvas is usually heavier, powerful models of at least class 5 are selected (you need to look at the table). Accordingly, the mounting template will need markup for a different class.
You may also need a more powerful drill, but these are all details. For the rest, it is necessary to put the closer on metal doors in the same way as wooden or metal-plastic doors.
Closers that are installed on doors have different design and the adjusting screws are located in different places. Everything is exactly indicated in the passport or installation instructions. But, in general, the technique is the same:
When adjusting the closer, do not turn the screws several turns at once. Often, just a quarter of a turn is enough, maybe a little more. Having knocked off the balance by tightening or unscrewing the screws too much, it is very difficult to adjust everything again. You can even break the device or cause oil to flow from the inside.
The door opening and slamming speed controls are located on the body. Most often they are either on the front part under the protective cover or on its lateral surface.
In rounded or multi-edged housings, the adjustments are located on the side of the housing
High quality and correct installed door closer the door allows not only to extend its service life, but also to keep warmth in the room due to the provision of automatic smooth and silent closing. The installation process may differ depending on the type of the device itself or the door, but, as a rule, it does not cause much difficulty. That is why you can do it yourself.
Door closer
Closers are mechanical-hydraulic devices based on a mechanism with a spring in metal frame filled with oil. Most often they are installed in premises with high traffic, as they have a number of indisputable advantages and provide:
Meanwhile, the success of the closer fulfillment of all these functions depends on the correctness of its installation.
Due to the presence of individual structural features of this or that door closer, it must be installed, strictly following the standard instructions, as well as the recommendations of the manufacturer itself.
Depending on the type of door structure and its functions, a certain type of door closer is selected
Modern door closers are distinguished by design, type of construction and power. In addition, they are all conventionally divided into:
Today, devices with a sliding rod are considered the most reliable and less cumbersome among the top closers, but the most common are still those based on a gear-driven mechanism.
Floor closers are considered the most difficult to install, since they require an absolutely flat floor and an accurate calculation of the door opening path. And the most simple ones are the top ones. They can be installed on almost any door except glass. For her, floor devices were provided.
In case of incomplete adhesion of the door or low speed of the mechanism, it is possible to install two closers at the same time. Installation of door closers on doors with a leaf width of more than 1600 mm. undesirable.
Door closers class table
2 options for installing the closer
Ease of installation and reliability make overhead door closers the most popular. Regardless of the type of their model, they consist of a lever, fasteners and a diagram, which is carried out in full size. The latter, as a rule, displays the manufacturer's recommendations for installing a particular type of device.
Overhead door closers can be installed outside and inside the premises on metal, plastic and interior doors made of solid wood or MDF.
The process of marking and installing the closer
With the standard technology for installing a surface-mounted door closer, it is necessary:
For the door out aluminum profile or thin-walled metal, you need to use special fasteners - bonds, designed to protect the material from deformation at the points of attachment of the elements.
Diagrams of non-standard installation options for the closer
If it is impossible to install a door closer using standard technology, for example, if it must be carried out on a wicket or unusual door, you can resort to using special mounting strips or corners, the design of which is developed individually in each case.
The process of adjusting the lever with and without a latch
The process of adjusting the installed door closer is extremely important and usually involves adjusting the force and speed of closing the door. It is carried out in several stages:
When adjusting the closer, it is extremely important to properly loosen the screws. Excessive diligence in this case can lead to depressurization of the closer body, resulting in oil leakage, which will lead to damage to the device.
It is quite possible to install a door closer with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to heed the advice of professionals and show a little patience and diligence. In the end, they will be rewarded not only with excellent thermal insulation and an extension of the service life of the door itself, but also with maximum convenience in its use.