Three steps to a beautiful finish or how to glue wallpaper on drywall without putty. How to glue wallpaper on drywall without putty: is it possible? How to glue vinyl wallpaper on drywall

Decor elements 25.06.2019
Decor elements

Knowing how to stick wallpaper on drywall is not enough, because the work surface must be carefully prepared before that. How the GKL is prepared for the subsequent installation of finishing rolls, and what must be done in this case, and what is not important - everything is in the article. Read!

Why prepare the GKL surface for finishing

Plasterboard wall installation is only half the job. This is followed by finishing, no matter what the finishing material is - paint or wallpaper. The reason for this need lies in the following features of the GKL and its installation:

  • the presence on drywall of special docking recesses (factory thinned edge), which must be aligned flush with the main surface;
  • in the process, recesses are formed in the places of screwing with self-tapping screws - they are filled with a solution;
  • at the joints of the end part of the sheets, special chamfers are made, which are reinforced and filled with a special compound;
  • during transportation, the front cardboard is often damaged, therefore it is correct to putty the wall from the GKL solid;
  • the surface strongly absorbs moisture (except for moisture-resistant material (GKLV)) - you can’t do without it.

If wallpapering is on an unprepared surface, the following problems are inevitable:

  • the canvases will not stick well, since the gypsum board will instantly absorb all the moisture from the wallpaper glue;
  • in places of longitudinal joining of drywall, recesses will be clearly visible - it will not look very good;
  • in the recesses from the twisted self-tapping screws, the web is very likely to be damaged by accidental pressure (the same in the places of transverse joining of the GKL);
  • if the joining seam of the wallpaper and drywall coincides (such a possibility exists), the joint of the wallpaper will be visible at a great distance.

Drywall processing for quality installation wallpaper is necessary, and there should be no doubt about this. In addition, it is important to prepare the mounted wall in stages, correctly maintaining the sequence of work operations. The success of an event also depends on correct selection tools and finishing materials.

We purchase materials, assemble tools

Drywall before wallpapering? Yes, it is simply necessary, therefore, the first on the list required materials There will be a good primer. How to distinguish the correct impregnating solution from the unsuitable? Several criteria:

  • famous brand;
  • the price is above average;
  • designed for deep impregnation of building (finishing) surfaces;
  • based on acrylic suspension.

Don't try to skimp on primer. Believe me, a lot depends on its quality. This is the degree of adhesion of finishing solutions to the surface of the plasterboard, the strength of the seams that fasten together drywall sheets, the quality of gluing wallpaper to the prepared base.

In addition to the primer, such materials will be needed for preparation.

  1. 1. Adhesive putty for filling butt joints and other recesses. The most common material for these purposes is the Knauf Fugenfüller mixture. Some masters replace specialized adhesive mixture normal start. This is wrong - the strength of gypsum plaster is much lower.
  2. 2. Self-adhesive rolled fiberglass mesh (serpyanka) for reinforcing seams. It comes in various widths (5-20 cm). For our purposes, a mesh up to 10 cm wide is suitable.
  3. 3. Finishing putty for interior decoration. There is a facade "finish" - it will not work here, besides external putty at least twice as expensive. There is putty in the form of a dry powder, from which a solution is prepared independently and a ready-to-use mixture, sold in a closed plastic container. It is more convenient to work with ready-made putty (if you putty for the first time, it is better to prefer such material), but it costs more.

How to prepare drywall for wallpapering without the right tool? No way, so the following tools should be assembled at hand:

  • two spatulas, wide (30-35 cm) and narrow (up to 10 cm);
  • paint roller with a fleecy "fur coat" 20-30 cm wide;
  • narrow paint brush;
  • drill with mixer nozzle;
  • (cross-shaped) or a screwdriver with an appropriate bit;
  • sanding plate with abrasive meshes (grain no larger than 120);
  • construction knife with replaceable blades.

In addition, you will need various containers for priming, mixing solutions, water for washing tools. When all the preparations are completed, it's time to start preparing drywall for wallpaper - step-by-step instruction to this event will be available to attention in the next section of the article.

Preparing the surface of a drywall wall - what and how to do

Pour the primer into a bucket or into a paint bath, take it in working hand roller, in the other - a brush and begin to impregnate the GCR with a strengthening solution. The areas are primed with a roller, with a brush - where the skating rink does not reach. Drywall is primed in one pass, but carefully, without gaps.

If the wall is made of moisture-resistant drywall, it does not need to be primed. GKLV is already impregnated with everything necessary for its production. It will be necessary to prime only the layers of finishing solutions at the end of the putty.

When the entire surface is saturated, you can take a break (the primer should dry completely, and this is from an hour to four) and carefully study the following instructions.

After the impregnation has dried, we glue sickle on all seams (longitudinal, transverse). The mesh is self-adhesive, but this does not mean that it will stick to itself and will hold on as long as you like. First, it needs to be pressed down well; secondly, at this stage of work it is better not to create strong drafts, because the sickle quickly flies away under the air flow.

After gluing the mesh, we prepare a solution for sealing the seams. We knead a little, since the solution sets quickly (the "life" time is no more than half an hour) and a lot is not consumed. To begin with, cook quite a bit, and knead by hand with a narrow spatula. After spending the first portion, you will understand the "character" of the material, that is, how it behaves and how to work with it. Glue putty is pushed into the seams with transverse movements, the excess is removed along the joint with a wide tool. The goal is to fill the seam as much as possible, but so that the solution does not protrude above the common surface.

Simultaneously with the mating edges, the recesses from the fixing screws and deep damage to the plasterboard (if any) are filled with the same solution. It is likely that self-tapping screws that are not screwed up during the installation of drywall will come across. Such screws will be found on their own - a spatula will "stumble" on their protruding heads. These self-tapping screws must be tightened (with a screwdriver or screwdriver). If this is not done, they will greatly spoil the mood when the surface is completely putty.

Seams and other recesses are closed twice, but the second pass is done with ordinary putty. To put a second layer, it is enough for the glue to grab - you do not need to wait for drying. After the second pass, the seams and recesses from the screws should be closed flush with the rest of the surface.

The next stage is a continuous coating of the surface with a finishing solution. If you have never done this, practice on a piece of plasterboard, of which there are always a lot left after installation. There is nothing complicated, the main thing is to understand the task (thin uniform layer) and accustom the hand to the correct movements. Given the fact that you need to putty twice, by the end of the event you will understand how simple it is. Flaws initial stages training will easily fix the grinding grater after the applied layers have dried.

By the way, about polishing. When preparing the surface for wallpapering, this task should not be treated with fanaticism. Quite solid, but lightly run the abrasive over the surface to remove protruding areas. All kinds of scratches that spoil the picture and the mood when painting do not affect the speed and quality of wallpaper installation.

What affects is the quality of the final primer, so the lesson must be taken seriously, and the applied layers of finishing solutions must be thoroughly impregnated. While the primer dries, read about how to hang wallpaper on drywall.

Many, not being masters of decoration, were engaged in wallpapering. But the work of a professional can always be distinguished from the results of an amateur's work. And the point here is not in superpowers and not even skills, but in knowing the nuances. Let the masters who earn their daily bread with this difficult work forgive, but nevertheless we will present a few professional secrets to lovers of self-pasting wallpaper.

How to properly form corners. One of the canvases is glued with a small spade (1.5-2 cm) to the adjacent wall. Another canvas, which is glued towards the adjacent wall, is superimposed on the first wallpaper fragment and cut out along the corner. Another option - the first canvas on the adjacent wall starts from this corner. It is impossible to wrap a large fragment of a canvas on an adjacent wall - in the corner from under the wallpaper it will not be possible to "expel" air and excess glue.

The first canvas from the corner is glued strictly according to the level (a vertical line is drawn that serves as a guide). For installation of wallpaper, only specialized glue is used (for vinyl, for interlining). Universal compositions are of low quality and are suitable only for paper products. The joints of the canvases must be smeared with glue additionally - so they will not disperse and it will be possible to form an inconspicuous seam.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 3 minutes

With the help of wallpaper, you can easily create an atmosphere of comfort in your home. Big choice This finishing material on the market allows you to choose it in accordance with any interior ideas. A wide variety of tones, all kinds of textures and patterns - all this makes wallpaper a good helper in repairs. After the decision has been made to decorate the walls with a paper embodiment of design ideas, many are wondering how to glue wallpaper on drywall?

Wallpapering on drywall is considered the most common way to finish walls. The gluing process itself does not take much time and does not require special skills. The only caveat is the fact that the wallpaper has a lot of requirements for the quality of the surface.

Is special preparation required before wallpapering?

Before you start wallpapering, the drywall surface must be well prepared. Many people think that GKL has a perfectly flat surface, so the question arises: is it possible to glue wallpaper on drywall without first preparing the walls?

In principle, you can glue wallpaper on drywall without preparation, but as a result you will get the following:

  • Puttyed joints and places for fastening self-tapping screws will be visible through the finish. If they are not processed at all, the wallpaper in these places will tear, rust from the screws may appear on them.
  • Wallpaper on drywall without putty is glued “tightly”, which will cause a lot of problems in the process of subsequent repairs. When it is necessary to replace the wallpaper with new ones, you will either have to tear off the old ones with pieces of drywall, or stick them on top of the old ones.

Conclusion one: drywall in without fail should be prepared for wallpapering.

All preparations can be represented as phased scheme, each point of which requires careful implementation.

Stage number 1. Primer

The primer improves the adhesion of the putty with drywall, prevents the absorption of moisture from the putty and wallpaper glue into the GCR, as well as the development of fungus and mold.

Acrylic primer is considered the most common, although other types can be used. The mixture can be purchased ready-made or dry, requiring self cooking. If the choice is made in favor of the composition for self-preparation, it is important to strictly follow the dosage suggested by the manufacturer.

Stage number 2. Sealing joints

Stage number 3. Putty plasterboard walls

The putty solution can be prepared independently using a construction mixer or purchased already ready mix. For drywall, two types of putty are used: starting and finishing.

  • With the help of the starting putty, you can eliminate any defects and damage to the drywall received during the installation process.
  • The finishing mixture must be applied at the stage of finishing, it gives smoothness and allows you to remove minor defects and irregularities. If the drywall has no defects, one layer of finishing putty will be enough, and you can not use the starting one.

Stage number 4. Grinding

After complete drying, the surface is rubbed with sandpaper. Grinding is done with coarse-grained, and then fine-grained sandpaper.

This stage of wall preparation must be carried out carefully and slowly. Carelessness can provoke the appearance of chips, after which it will be necessary to repeat the puttying of the walls again.

Before starting work, make sure that you have personal protective equipment, as a result of grinding, a lot of caustic dust is generated, which can get into the eyes and respiratory tract.

Stage number 5. Re-priming the walls

Before sticking wallpaper on drywall, you will have to walk along the putty wall again with a primer. The primer contributes to better gluing of wallpaper and prevents the surface from absorbing abundant glue. Experienced professionals perform a second primer in two layers.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: Drywall profile box

The second layer of primer should be applied only after the first has completely dried.

Stage number 6. Wallpapering

Before gluing wallpaper on drywall, you need to choose the right glue and mark the wall according to the width of the roll. This will allow you to calculate the number of rolls needed for gluing and facilitate the whole process.

Drywall is one of the most popular and pliable finishing materials that can be used for a variety of purposes. The same can be said for wallpapers. These two components are used in many interiors and often play one of the most important roles. Today we will talk about how to stick wallpaper on the surface of drywall.


Peculiarities

Drywall is a very light and undemanding material from which you can make the most different designs. It can be not only a lightweight partition separating functional areas, but also real plasterboard furniture. To such design solutions many owners apply, as they are inexpensive and it is quite possible to bring them to life with your own hands.



However, the simple snow-white surface of drywall often looks too simple and cheap in the interior, so it needs to be processed. Fortunately, this material is not afraid of painting or wallpapering. With the help of properly selected canvases, you can give drywall construction special appeal and complete appearance.



To begin with, drywall always needs to be prepared for the upcoming finishing work. However, some owners glue wallpaper without prior preparation, which, of course, takes much less time. But for such work, exceptionally dense and thick coatings should be selected. bright colors, which can close up various defects in the base. In addition, putty is often used in the design of drywall construction. It is also optional, and all work can be done without this process.


Despite the ease of working with this material, experts recommend treating its design very carefully and responsibly so that the result does not disappoint you, and the resulting detail retains beautiful view for a long time.


Surface preparation

Before direct wallpapering, it is recommended to prepare the drywall surface. Of course, this process is not critical, and many people do not perform these works. But after all, only after competent preparation, the surface of the base will look perfectly even and neat, so you should not neglect it.


You can prepare drywall in several basic steps:

  • Primer. The primer layer is necessary for better and more reliable adhesion of putty to drywall. In addition, thanks to this preparatory work, drywall will be protected from the appearance of mold or fungus. Today, many turn to high-quality acrylic primer, but in stores you can find a lot of other options. A modern buyer can purchase both a ready-made primer and a powder one that needs to be stirred independently. The primer of a drywall surface for future wallpapering is most often done using a conventional brush. During such work, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface of the base.

When drywall wall be completely processed, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry completely. As a rule, the drying time of these compounds is indicated on their packaging. AT this case it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions on the package so as not to spoil the composition.



  • Strengthening the coating. This process is necessary in order for the foundation to be stronger, more reliable and durable.


  • Sickle gluing. Serpyanka is a lavsan or fiberglass ribbon with a special adhesive composition. Outwardly, such elements are very similar to classic medical bandages, although they have nothing to do with them. Serpyanka should be glued as firmly and securely as possible at the joints formed between the sheets of drywall. Try to avoid the formation of air cushions in such work. If the sickle is not very sticky, then it should be supplemented with a small amount of PVA glue.


  • Putty joints. After you have closed all the joints with a sickle, you need to put putty in the seams, which must be leveled with high quality and accurately. Thanks to such work, all joints and sloppy connections cease to attract attention and become invisible.

It is permissible to smooth the putty only after it has dried. For this, it is allowed to use fine-grained sandpaper.


What to process?

Before sticking wallpaper on a drywall base, you need to properly process it. To do this, you will need not only putty and primer, but also various protective compounds. Such processing can extend the life of the product.


In addition, all the work can be easily done by hand:

  • It will not be superfluous to treat the surface with special bactericidal substances and apply an additional layer of putty. To do this, it is necessary to cover the structure with special antiseptics and completely putty the base. However, there is usually no special need for these actions;


  • anti-fungal protection of drywall may also be needed. This work will protect the base from the formation of mold and fungus. Useful antiseptic substances are often present in the composition of acrylic primers, which indicates a great opportunity to "do two things at the same time."

In addition, using a quality acrylic mixture, you will save a lot of time.



For application protective compounds experts recommend using a roller, a special sprayer or a brush. Such devices will not scratch or damage the base. When working with such compounds, it is recommended to wear a respirator to chemical substances did not enter the lungs. Today in stores you can meet protective equipment in containers of 5-10 liters. They differ in low consumption per 1 sq m of a wall or ceiling.


The primer can be combined with water-based paint and cover the base with this composition. It will be very useful in matters of whitening surfaces.

Finishing

To form a neater and more complete look, drywall requires a simple finish. Many finishing materials are already used at the initial (preparatory) stages of working with the base.


First of all, they should include a primer and putty. Also, during such work, you can not do without compositions that hide all the seams and joints. Often re-priming is carried out, making the structure more dense and even.



Drywall can not only be painted, but also wallpapered. For this material, you can pick up not only light paper, but also some denser canvases, which are distinguished by a long service life. Of course, the more the coatings weigh, the more reliable and thoughtful the preparation and finishing of the drywall base should be.


Is it necessary to putty?

You can glue wallpaper on drywall without first applying putty. However, in such cases, it is necessary to carefully and responsibly approach the priming of the base, because the primer has not only a disinfecting effect, but also provides an excellent connection with adhesives. Walls can be plastered before wallpapering. On plastered surfaces, wallpaper is applied easier and easier, as well as on high-quality putty.


Experts advise gluing wallpaper on drywall without putty so that their joints do not coincide with the seams of the base, otherwise it will look rough and sloppy.

Can it be applied to gypsum plaster?

As already mentioned, it is quite possible to glue wallpaper on drywall without putty. However, it is allowed to stick canvases on high-quality plastered surfaces of the base. Being on such a surface, the wallpaper can last a very long time.


For high-quality and reliable processing gypsum plaster you will need the following tools:

  • level;
  • spatulas;
  • roulettes (not less than 5 m);
  • plumb line for leveling;
  • spray gun for ordinary water;
  • trowel sponges;
  • utensils for stirring the solution.



It rarely happens that old wallpaper is still on the surface of drywall. Before all finishing work, they should be completely removed by spraying with water and picking up with a spatula. After that, the base should dry completely. Then the surface of the drywall must be carefully wiped so that particles of old canvases or dirty marks do not remain on it. If there are still unnecessary screws or nails in the wall, they will also have to be removed.


Before applying the plaster, it is necessary to prime the base. Some types of wallpaper can be glued only on flat surfaces (for example, textile fabrics). Such finishing materials are allowed to be applied only on perfectly even non-putty drywall. If there are any flaws and flaws on it (which, of course, is rare), then puttying is still better to do immediately after plastering.


Without finishing putty, you can paste drywall with dense and embossed wallpaper, which are not afraid uneven surfaces. They will be able to seal many defects in the base.

Which wallpaper is better to choose?

Currently, there are so many different types of wallpapers that have different performance characteristics and design decoration that you can easily get lost in their assortment.


To finish the plasterboard surface, you can use the following types of wallpaper:

  • paper. These are the cheapest, thinnest and lightest options. They are environmentally friendly, as they contain pure cellulose. However, such canvases are not distinguished by wear resistance and long service life. They can be easily torn and stained, and they cannot be washed;
  • vinyl. These types of wallpapers are more popular and reliable. They consist of several layers of polyvinyl and paper. One of the brightest and most attractive are silk-screened vinyl canvases. They have a relief pattern and a special fibrous structure, from which it is impossible to look away;
  • textile. Such varieties have an interesting and luxurious appearance. Most often they are made from environmentally friendly and natural materials. However, woven fabrics absorb extraneous odors (not always pleasant) too easily and quickly and get dirty just as quickly. Washing them is also not recommended;



  • non-woven. These finishing materials are in great demand today and are found in many dwellings. Their base is interlining, consisting of viscose. These wallpapers last a long time, as tearing or deforming them is not so easy. In addition, they look very attractive and are available in large assortment;



  • liquid. These finishing materials are more like plaster. They are sold in dry powder form and applied to the walls after diluting with water. Such options are ideal for hiding defects on the basis;
  • wallpaper. Such canvases were popular even in Soviet time. Their relevance and relevance have not faded to this day. However, at present, in stores you can find not only traditional compositions with forest landscapes, birches and pine forests, but also more original and elegant specimens with a view eiffel tower, city night panoramas with evening lights and many other spectacular images.


Sticking technology

Today there is a great variety of finishing materials, from the good old water-based paint to color decorative plaster. However, wallpapers are still one of the most popular and easy to use.


The technology of gluing wallpaper on drywall has some features:

  • to begin with, it is imperative to remove the previous coating, if any, on drywall;
  • in rooms with high humidity(e.g. in the kitchen) a washable wallpaper sticker is recommended. It is better to apply them on a high-quality moisture resistant drywall otherwise they will quickly become unusable and require replacement;
  • drywall is often used in wooden house(especially if it is made of logs). Only on such flat surfaces can wallpaper be most easily applied;

The need to level the walls in the apartment of many leads to the decision to use drywall, which allows you to achieve the most even surface with minimal skills. But in this case, exactly does not mean beautiful.

Not too aesthetically pleasing needs finishing, which can be done in different ways. One option is sticking traditional wallpaper. about them and will be discussed in this article.

Is it possible to glue wallpaper directly on drywall?

Smooth and smooth surface drywall itself suggests that there will be no problems with wallpapering. But the question immediately arises: what preparatory work should precede this procedure and are they needed at all? After all, if possible, bypass the preparation process you can save a lot of time forces and means.

Avoid completely preparatory work definitely won't work. Before gluing, it will be necessary to putty at least the joints and caps of self-tapping screws on the plasterboard surface.

In this case, the quality of fixing the wallpaper, if it justifies the hopes of homeowners, then unpleasant consequences can be expected in the future, which will be mentioned below.

Plaster or putty?

Plastering process you can skip if you perform priming and puttying drywall.

Consider some situations the occurrence of which is quite possible in the case of wallpapering without putty on the surface of the plasterboard:

How to properly prepare the walls?

Surface preparation consists of several stages:

  • surface priming;
  • gluing joints;
  • grinding;
  • putty;
  • final priming.

Application of primer and serpyanka

Drywall treatment with a primer is needed for better adhesion of putty to the surface. Plus, the material acquires moisture-resistant properties and protection against fungus and bacteria.

For correct application primers use wide brush or a special roller, with which the surface is carefully treated with a primer.

After applying the first layer need to wait 30 minutes which will determine how intensively the primer is absorbed into the drywall. If the material quickly absorbed the liquid, the surface should be treated 1-2 more times.

Serpyanka - it is a lavsan or fiberglass mesh tape impregnated with an adhesive composition. Used to patch small cracks or holes in drywall.

Sticking this material is nothing complicated - the tape is applied to a particular area, as a result of which it easy to stick to the surface. If necessary, in case of poor-quality fixation of the sickle, it can be lubricated with PVA glue.

Puttying and sanding

After priming works you can begin to putty the surface. The finished starting putty is applied with a small spatula to a wider tool, with which the mixture at an angle of 45 ° is applied to the wall with strokes and level. The thickness of the putty layer should be approximately 0.2 cm.

Watch the video - instructions for puttying drywall:

To apply the second layer, the finishing mixture is used; the puttying process itself is no different from the previous procedure. Finished surface must be left to dry completely.(approximately 24 hours), after which the coating must be sanded.

For grinding use sandpaper. Irregularities are removed with a coarse-grained material, the final grouting is done with a fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of the preparatory work is the re-priming of the surface. To ensure a good grip wallpaper coated primer composition is applied to the wall two more times. Double processing will also prevent the wallpaper paste from quickly soaking into the putty.

DIY material sticker

Sticking procedure may differ slightly from case to case, which is connected with the type of wallpaper itself.

If we consider this process on the example of non-woven vinyl products and conventional paper wallpaper, then the following differences can be noted:

  1. Cut strips of paper wallpaper should be laid out on the floor and smeared with glue, then folded in half and leave in this position for 1-2 minutes(if we are talking about thin material) and for 5-7 minutes in the case of denser products.
  2. In addition, it is recommended to lubricate thin sheets with cold glue once, and lubricate thick material twice. warm composition. Wherein glue is also applied to the surface of the wall.
  3. Vinyl wallpaper on non-woven base do not require the application of glue on the canvases themselves(except when the glue dries very quickly due to extreme heat). It is enough to treat only the surface of the wall with an adhesive composition.

The rest of the finishing is done using the same method. For even bonding of the first strip draw a vertical line on the wall. To do this, you can use a vertical plumb line or a laser level.

After applying the adhesive, the strip is applied to the wall and smooth from the middle to the edges. All bubbles and air are removed with a hard roller, the subsequent strips are glued end-to-end with each other.

For better bonding of joints You can use paper tape which is glued along the edge of the wallpaper strip with inside so that its half protrudes from under the glued canvas.

The next strip is glued onto the protruding part of the tape, as a result of which the joints are not only glued to the wall, but also stick together.

When wrapping corners do not use the whole strip. The best way in this case - overlap. The strip is glued to one of the walls so that its edge lies on the adjacent wall, capturing no more than 4 cm.

After that follows gently press the canvas to the corner, then remove the air with a sponge or soft roller and cut off the excess fabric with a knife. The strip pasted on the adjacent wall should overlap the previously glued canvas by 2-3 cm. The excess part of the material can also be cut off.

Thus wallpaper is glued around the entire perimeter of the room. As you can see, nothing complicated. The main thing in this business is accuracy. The more accurately all the work is done, the more pleased the result will be.

Sticking wallpaper on drywall - see this video:

Wallpapering on drywall is the easiest and most affordable type of repair. But how to glue wallpaper on drywall without the help of putty? Let's consider this further.

Wallpaper for drywall

First you need to find out: is it possible to glue wallpaper on drywall? Yes, but there are also pitfalls here:

  1. If the wallpaper is thin, then the inscriptions and joints of the sheets will be noticeable;
  2. With time, green color panels can show through thin wallpaper, and ruin the look;
  3. GKL panels resistant to moisture, but they absorb glue well, as a result of which it is very problematic to remove wallpaper from such a surface;
  4. If only fixing holes and joints are puttied, then through thin wallpaper changes in color scheme, as well as thickening of the relief.

Then the question arises: how to properly glue wallpaper on drywall, and why do we need putty? They glue the wallpaper mainly with putty, many make mistakes, believing that it is only needed to level the surface, in which case the drywall actually does not need putty, because joints and screws will not be visible behind expensive thick wallpaper.

Before starting work

If there are on the wall old wallpaper, their easy delete using special solutions for removing wallpaper. Mix it with water, evenly apply with a spray gun on the surface, wait about 5-10 minutes until the solution is absorbed. After that, a corner is hooked with a spatula, and the wallpaper is easily removed and remains intact. In some places there may be glue and small pieces of wallpaper, you can get rid of them with a spatula.

Defective putty on drywall(with cracks, bumps, and doubtful places) is removed with a special construction scraper with replaceable blade or spatula. After removing the wall primer, even without putty, this will ensure reliable adhesion of the adhesive to the wallpaper.

After primer inspect the wall along the perimeter of the junction with the floor, it is especially important here that the plane be flat, the skirting boards and baguettes will emphasize the slightest irregularities, they will be immediately visible. To do this, you need to measure the wall with a rule, find and cover up irregularities. As a rule, it is necessary to wipe about 15 centimeters of the upper adjoining space. After that, we do a similar operation with the upper junction, capturing 15 centimeters of the wall from the corner.

Samu the wall may not be processed, as many workers do - after all, thick wallpapers can hide all the irregularities, but it is undesirable to do this, since they can break through at the joints of the sheets.

Wall preparation

You should carefully examine the surface, highlight large gaps, shortcomings, misses with dimensions, protruding parts of fasteners, voids and damage. Joints are masked with joint tape so that the GCR can expand. Many people make mistakes in this, especially at a height, fastening the ceiling and walls tightly, without cracks and gaps after which cracks appear.

For quality work, initially the gap itself between the sheets is putty, reinforcing tape is glued(sickle, resembling a bandage), then docking. After all this, the wall is also putty on top of the tape with mortar. It is important to keep in mind that all operations are performed without interruption due to the rapid drying of the solution. The solution is then allowed to dry for 1 day.

When choosing a putty, you should pay attention to the expiration date, scope and conditions under which it must be stored.

For defects less than 2.5 cm, starting putty is suitable, less than 0.5 cm - finishing, the remaining gap should not exceed 1.5 mm. It is better not to try to save money - the solution will take more, and the quality will be worse than when using high-quality mixtures.

After the first one dries, a second layer of putty is applied, with a wider spatula, they also cut off irregularities and smooth out the lateral transitions of the layers. Putty helps not only to level the walls, but also significantly strengthen the structure.

After the second layer has dried, the joint is sealed with a third, more liquid one. Each subsequent layer should overlap the previous one in width by 50 cm. When the seam dries, it must be carefully processed with a coarse-grained, then fine-grained sandpaper being careful not to damage the panels.

When sealing the seams, “steps” between the panels may come across. In this case, it is better to cut the edge of the protruding sheet at an angle of 45 degrees to soften the transition.

The mixture is prepared in small portions, using the instructions on the package, thoroughly mixed master or mixer. Apply the mixture carefully, stretching it as much as possible over the surface with a minimum layer. It is best to pass along the wall with a large spatula, determine the largest defects, and give them Special attention, small cracks will not be visible.

The corners are also initially sealed, after which two tapes are glued and the wall is leveled with a spatula on both sides of the corner. For the outside, you can fix a special building angle instead of a tape, which allows you to increase the strength of the structure.

The heads of the self-tapping screws are twisted harder so that they are 1 mm deeper from the sheet level. They are also needed smear with a spatula crosswise, cut off the excess and sand. If the panel near the self-tapping screw is damaged or there are cracks, then you need to fix the reinforcing tape over the self-tapping screw and putty.

In the case of preparation without putty, it is necessary to treat the screws with a special solution and stick two tapes, for reliability, - reinforcing and joining.

After grinding, dust forms on the walls, which can be eliminated by treating the wall with a primer, or with a weak adhesive solution, after drying, wallpaper can be glued. It is important to use a primer suitable for drywall, there are mixtures that are not suitable for such structures.

So that drywall does not crack during shrinkage, or flooding by neighbors from above, it is necessary fasten at the joints with reinforcing tape made on the basis of fiberglass and mounted on an adhesive basis.

Are used large sheets fiberglass, called gossamer. It is glued to the entire surface of the drywall, after which it is puttied and finished with wallpaper. It's important to know that the cobweb is fixed with a specialized adhesive, not suitable for mounting wallpaper glue, nor its analogues. This will also help protect the GKL from cracking.

Bonding without the use of reinforcing mixtures

The walls must be dry, the primer must dry for at least a day. Wet spots are darker areas against lighter backgrounds. In no case can't wallpaper wet walls , these places will subsequently fall behind or become moldy and blacken.

Also, when sticking wallpaper, you must follow simple rules:


The wall must be clean., without various points and debris, you can carefully walk with your palm or with a lamp. The tape should be the same color as the drywall, for which you can add a little light colorant to the primer to give the surface one tone.

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