Finishing floor made of edged boards. Do-it-yourself floor from a board, or how to make wooden floors in a private house

You have decided to build a beautiful, warm and environmentally friendly clean house your dream? Then there will certainly be a rhetorical question: what kind of floors will this residential building have? Of course, it will be a floor of edged boards- and there should be no objections.

Today there are many options synthetic covering floor - it all looks very nice, easy to use, etc.

However, an expertly laid plank floor made from good quality edged material:

• first of all, it will be beneficial to decorate your new or overhauled house;
• will make it warm, cozy and, most importantly, durable at home.

In addition, such a coating is easy to care for, and can also be short time qualitatively repair.

Edged lumber

Edged floorboard - a material made (cut) from a log and sawn at the edges in such a way that no bark remains on its edges. The width of the edged lumber is usually more than twice the thickness. Range of applications for construction market significantly exceeds consumer demand for unedged analogue.

Today, the most popular wood species suitable for processing are:

• spruce: it has a looser structure, but it is endowed with increased thermal insulation properties, it is more often used in interior decor;
• pine: most often used for the construction of frames (in the construction of floors, roofs).

Based on the requirements of GOST 8486-86 "Lumber of species from needles", which describes the requirements for the production of timber, lining and edged boards from pine, spruce and other types of softwood, the material is divided into five varieties:

• 1 - 4 varieties (differ in quality and price);
• perfect 5th grade.

GOST provides all parameters geometric dimensions, defects occurring both on the surface of the wood and on its edges. The material is 85-130 mm wide, with a thickness of 25-45 mm.

Advice!
In order for the edged floorboard to serve you for a long time, you should choose it thicker.
When buying, pay attention that there are as few knots and bark residues as possible.

Laying the floor from edged boards

If you had to make repairs in your own apartment with your own hands, you can easily master the installation of a new wooden floor.

The following coatings are commonly used:

• parquet boards;
• grooved and edged boards.

Factors When Choosing Edged Board Floors

Parquet floors are not cheap. However, if you buy edged lumber, the price of which is much lower, and even make flooring without involving outside dealers, your floor will be cheaper for you even than the flooring of an apartment or house from a laminate.

What do you need to keep in mind when choosing floorboards?

There are the following factors:

1. Moisture percentage... It is almost impossible to check this factor locally, so we recommend purchasing floorboards in the fall, laying them in place so that the material lies down, “acclimatized” to your conditions.
2. When buying, carefully check the material for the presence of: cracks, chips, knots and rot... Before laying, be sure to treat the boards with inside means (antiseptics) for water based against fungus.

Remember!
The instructions for laying floors from edged boards suggest: logs should be equipped for any type of flooring under the flooring.

Most often, logs are made from 50X50 mm beams. They are attached to the concrete cover with the help of anchors, clearly in level. After, take boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm ( perfect option- 4-5 cm).

Step-by-step installation process

1. First edged batten fits parallel to the wall (the distance from it should be 1 cm, for which it is most convenient to use wedges of the corresponding thickness, driving them along the wall at a certain distance).
2. The board is attached to the logs (beams) with the help of nails - two are driven in at all intersections of the beam and the board. The hats should be completely "drowned".
3. If short boards hit, they should be laid to the middle of the width of the log. Each such end of the board is nailed with two nails.
4. Subsequent boards (4-5 rows) are applied tightly to each other, without hammering them with nails. The next (5 or 6 row) is laid at a small distance and is slightly fixed with nails.

1. Now a pair of triangular wedges is cut out of any trim, which are inserted into the left gap. These wedges are driven with hammers in the direction of each other, while squeezing the floorboards.
2. In the presence of long rows the number of wedges increases.
3. After that, the first rows are visually inspected for their tight contact, after which they are nailed.
4. Wedges and separately "baited" board are removed and the operation with next rows repeats in a similar order.
5. At the final stage, the laying of the last edged board remains, the width of which is adjusted using a jigsaw.

Summarizing

The finished wooden floor should be sanded and painted as you wish, although it will be much preferable to varnish it: the natural unique pattern of the tree will remain in sight. Nowadays, you can pick up a varnish of any shade you like.

As you can see, the process of laying edged boards is not difficult and is quite capable of even for an inexperienced amateur craftsman. And the video in this article is ready to confirm all the information you read above!

The process of finishing the floors is a rather complicated undertaking, especially if the laying of floorboards is planned. Laying a floorboard is a relatively simple operation, however, you need to be careful and scrupulous so that the flooring turns out to be even and does not "walk". Not every master can do this correctly, especially if he has not done this before and does not know how to lay the floor from the boards with his own hands.

The edged board is used when laying the floor in a garage or other utility room. It is quite simple to lay a floor from an edged board yourself, because it is usually laid as a rough one, which does not require a perfectly flat surface. It is much more difficult to make a clean wood floor. This is due to the fact that it must be carefully leveled and well processed, choosing the right material. Next, consider the question of how to lay a floorboard indoors as a clean floor.

Description of the material, its pros and cons

Flooring boards have been used as flooring since ancient times. This was due to the wide availability of the material and the simplicity of its processing. Floorboards are made from natural natural material- wood. The floors from them have an attractive appearance, pleasant smell and a relatively inexpensive price. At the same time, a plank floor in a garage or other premises will be significantly better than laminate and will not be inferior to parquet.

The main advantage of floorboards over laminate is that the material is a solid solid wood. Laying the floorboard provides for the connection of all floor materials with a special lock. For this, there are grooves and spikes that connect the material. This method of laying allows you to protect the floors from moisture and deformation during temperature extremes. TO positive qualities plank floors include the following:

1. Long service life. Competent installation of the floorboard and properly selected high-quality material will allow the floors to serve up to 100 years or more.
2. Ease of repairing floors. This is due to the ease with which it can be dismantled.
3. Relatively low material cost. It is comparable to the cost of laminate flooring.
4. Aesthetic appearance... Castles and palaces were decorated with wooden floors.
5. Environmental friendliness of the material. Wood - natural material which does not harm human health.
6. High strength characteristics... The flooring is able to withstand just about any piece of furniture.
7. Good thermal insulation properties. The tree is one of the most warm materials, the wooden floors in the garage and residential building will always be warm.
8. Non-varnished materials do not cause allergies and do not accumulate static electricity.

The disadvantages of a plank floor include:

1. Poor sound insulation properties.
2. The wood starts to rot when exposed to moisture.
3. The need to varnish the surface to protect it from abrasion, otherwise the surface will lose its appearance.
4. Floors made of planks (including solid ones, made of deck planks) do not withstand strong mechanical shocks, they are scratched with sharp objects.
5. Wood is a highly flammable material.
6. The tree is prone to rotting, insects and rodents can eat it.
7. The material swells from moisture, from the sun and heat it dries up and cracks.

Wood materials have the following characteristics:

1. The thickness of the boards ranges from 18 to 42 mm, the width is 85-150 mm, and the length is 900-6000 mm.
2. An important indicator is the hardness of the boards. It usually ranges from 1.5 to 7 units and is determined by the Brinell method. The strongest oak materials have a strength value of 3.7 points, larch - 3.1, pine and other conifers - about 2 points. Moreover, larch materials are perfect for baths, saunas, kitchens and baths - wherever there is high humidity... Oak are perfect for any premises, including they can be used to finish floors in the garage and other rooms where they will have a heavy load.

At the same time, it is important to carefully select the material: the samples should be dry, and not overdried or wet. For example, thick but damp ones will lead so that their fasteners will be broken and torn off. Overdried wood will not be able to withstand heavy loads and will crack when the floorboard is laid.

There is a division of the boards into classes. Dried materials without knots and any other damage are considered the highest class. Materials of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd grade have a pattern, but they come across knots. For a finished floor, boards of the highest and 1st grade are suitable. In utility rooms, you can finish the floors and clean the 2nd grade. Grade 3 goes only to the rough floor. Moreover, it is recommended to cover all boards with varnish.

Styling nuances

Before starting the installation of the floorboard, it is necessary to check the compatibility of the connecting elements of the boards when purchasing. The absence of cracks and other damage and deformation is checked. You should also pay attention to the evenness of the boards themselves: they must be even in all planes. If the board is uneven, then it is difficult to straighten it.

The plank floor is installed last, after the ceiling and walls are completely ready. In this case, the floorboard should lie without load and packaging in the room where the wooden flooring is planned for several days (3 - 5). This is necessary to adapt the material to the room climate.

Humidity indicators should be as follows: premises - within 40-80%, floor - 12%. Temperature environment- from 18 to 24 ° C. It is best to lay the floorboards on logs, while remembering that the logs will "eat up" the height of the room.

Preparatory work

The first step is to even out the rough differences in floor heights, to finish the walls and ceilings. Next, you need to treat the whole tree with antifungal, fire-resistant impregnations and a primer and leave it to dry.

Next, the floor is waterproofed. Usually stone floors are impregnated with special solutions. Before that, it is necessary to carefully check the moisture content of the concrete floor in one of the following ways: a square of polyethylene is glued to the stone floors with tape and removed after a day. If the film or stone coating is wet, the installation wooden logs and floors to start early. Instead of a film, you can put a piece of rubber with an area of ​​about 1 m² and press down with stones, then proceed as in the previous version. The moisture content of the stone floor can be checked with a special device.

Next, roofing material is laid as a waterproofing. You can use a film or mastic, but the film is fragile, and the mastic has bad smell which will erode for a long time even after laying the floorboard. After that, the lags are mounted. In fact it is wooden bar with a section of at least 80x80 mm, which is sawn into workpieces of the required length. It is important that they are pre-flat and well treated with antiseptics, refractory mortar and primer.

In this case, the workpieces are sawn in such a way that one of the sizes of the workpieces completely overlaps either the length or the width of the room. The distance between the lags should be the same, if they lie unevenly, then chips are placed under them. For fastening the lag, you can use screws, corners or mastic. It is best to mount with corners. The interval between the beams (lags) should not exceed half a meter. In this case, the direction of laying the lag should be perpendicular to the direction of laying the floors. After installation, the floors are vacuumed and cleaned of dust and moisture, and insulation is placed between the logs (if required).

Further, before laying the floors from the boards, plywood or cragis is applied over the logs. They are cut into sheets with a width equal to the interval between the logs plus the width of the log. Laying this layer is optional, but desirable: it allows you to reduce the deformation of the floorboards under load. Fastening the plywood to the joists must be done with self-tapping screws.

After the plywood has been laid and fixed, they begin to lay the boards. There are different ways to install floorboards. Let's consider the simplest one.

The edged board is 100% natural building material... Everyone knows that a board is a sawn log. There are no impurities, processing, chemical additives in it. That's why edged board floor technology deserves to be studied. Previously, we examined the technology of concrete flooring, now, let's talk about a wooden floor.

Tools and materials for flooring from edged boards

1. Wooden wedges
2. Edged boards
3. Jigsaw
4. Nails and hammer

Step-by-step instruction

1. We put it on the crate chipboard panel... Boards for the future floor need to be held in the room for "acclimatization" for several days.
2. Lay the first board parallel to the wall. The distance between the board and the wall should be = 1 cm. You can cut a wedge of the same thickness and drive it in.
3. The board is attached to the beams with nails. For each intersection of the board and the beam, 2 nails. Drown the hats completely.
4. If you have short boards at hand, then you should lay the boards to the middle. We also drive 2 nails into each end of the board.
5. We apply the next 4-5 rows of boards tightly to each other, but do not hammer in with nails. Lay the sixth row at a short distance from the previous ones. Nail the planks lightly.
6. It's time to cut any piece of board so that you end up with 2 triangular wedges. Both wedges fit into the gap left between the sixth and fifth row. The wedges are driven with hammers towards each other. Your floorboards should be compressed by the wedges.
7. For long rows, the number of wedges should be increased.
8. Visually inspect the first rows, if they are in close contact, then you need to secure them with nails.
9. We take out the wedges and the sixth row of boards. Then we lay another five (as it is convenient for anyone) rows of boards and perform a similar operation with wedges and a test sixth row.
10. The work is almost done and the last one remains. It almost always happens that the distance between the wall and the row is less than the width of the board. Saw (jigsaw) in your hands.
11. It remains only to cover the flooring with varnish or paint.

When the lathing is ready, you can start laying the wooden floor. You can use edged or grooved boards. Edged ones are much cheaper. We will tell you how to deal with them.

Tools and materials:

1. Solid wood boards
2. Wood trim boards for wedges
3. Hammer, nails
4. Jigsaw or saw

Process:

1. Create a platform for work by placing a chipboard panel on the crate. Before starting work, the boards should be laid out and kept in the room for several days so that they acclimatize in a specific humidity and temperature.
2. Let's get to work. Lay the first plank across the joists and parallel to the wall. Leave a 1 cm gap between it and the wall. To keep the gap, insert a wedge of this size into it.
3. Nail the board into place at the intersection with the beam. For each intersection, use two nails, nailing them 2.5 cm from each edge. Drown the caps into the surface with a doboinik.
4. If the length of one board is not enough for the entire row, cut it exactly so that it lies exactly to the middle of the intersection. On the remaining half, lay another board that will continue the row. Drive two nails into the end of each one.
5. After finishing the first row, lay the next five rows of planks loosely without nailing them. Lay the sixth at some distance, as if skipping one row. Temporarily fasten the sixth board with nails, without hammering them all the way.
6. Saw the piece of board diagonally to make two triangular wedges. Insert them into the gap left between the fifth and sixth rows so that the triangles connect with their long sides. Use two hammers to knock the wedges towards each other, thus squeezing the floorboards.
7. If the rows are very long, make several of these gussets along the entire length.
8. Fasten the boards pressed tightly together in place with nails or screws.
9. Remove the wedges and the board temporarily nailed by the sixth row by removing the nails. Place the new five rows behind the nailed five rows. Then squeeze them again with the wedges.
10. Work this way until the boards are all over the floor.
11. If the distance between the wall and the installed floor is too small to accommodate the last row, cut the planks along required size... At the same time, it is very convenient to work with a jigsaw. Drive them in with a hammer and then secure with screws.
12. The wood flooring is ready! You can cover it with varnish or floor paint.

Gender selection

The floor is the most intensively exploited part of the room. Therefore, the coating for it should be chosen from particularly durable materials. Today the flooring market is diverse and will satisfy the desires of any buyer.

Floor coverings are subdivided into:

• roll and sheet (linoleum, synthetic pile coating, superhard fiber boards);
• piece materials(parquet, boards, ceramic tiles, laminate, concrete and stone slabs).

Roll and sheet materials on modern market are represented mainly by all kinds of linoleum and pile coverings. They are widely used in residential and office premises with a relatively low traffic intensity.

Piece materials (parquet, board, ceramic tile, laminate) are most often used in residential premises. Parquet floors are laid both from piece parquet (separate planks) and mounted from parquet boards or parquet boards. Laminate floors are more hard and durable than parquet, and can be used not only in residential premises, but also in offices.

When choosing a floor covering, you need to pay attention to:

• appearance of the coating. It must match (in style and color) the interior of the room;
• the quality of the material. Not only the appearance, but also the service life depends on it;
• expenses. They consist of the costs of installation and maintenance and repairs over the entire life of the coating. Doesn't always seem cheap flooring gives the desired savings;
• environmental safety selected materials.

Clean and black floor

By design, all types of wood flooring consist of the so-called clean floor and sub-floor (base). A clean floor is the upper layer of the floor that is walked on and is directly exposed to operational influences. The subfloor is the basis for laying a clean floor. It should be remembered that the subfloor on the first floors (above the basement) must be insulated with some kind of heat insulators ( mineral slabs and other heaters) in combination with vapor barrier film... As a base (subfloor), you can use chipboard plates(not less than 18 mm thick), plywood (not less than 12 mm), boardwalk (not less than 20 mm).

If a new floor is laid on an old one wood flooring, then you need to make sure that it is able to withstand the load and that there is moisture protection under it.

If the base (subfloor) is sufficiently reliable, then the waterproofing can be laid directly on the old coating.

Sorting wood

The main characteristics of the wood used for flooring are hardness, strength, density. The higher the hardness and density of wood, the less wear it is. Currently, thanks to new technologies for drying and processing wood, a high-strength material (solid board) is obtained that meets parquet standards.

High quality solid board- pre-red heat insulator, possesses high strength and elasticity, a groove is made on both sides along the edges of the board, which allows the floorboards to be tightly joined. The width of the board ranges from 80 to 150 mm, the length - from 600 to 3000 mm. Usually the thickness of the floorboard is 20-40mm.

Wood products are sorted by saw cut, i.e. wood texture, by the presence of knots, absence of sapwood (young part of wood, located closer to the bark) and defects (cracks, cross-layer - deviation of direction from the longitudinal axis of the tree) ... Checking the quality of the material and determining the grade for a layman is quite problematic. Better consult a specialist.

Practice shows that best material for solid wood floors, corresponding to all modern standards, are produced by large enterprises. Therefore, when buying a board, preference should be given to large manufacturers and sellers that have proven themselves in the market. Usually, the higher the price of the item, the higher the quality.

Floors by concrete slab over an exploited basement

Laying methods. It is necessary to start laying the floor after the completion of all basic work: windows, door frames and doors are installed, plastered surfaces are dried, ceilings and screeds are mounted. The relative humidity in the room during the installation of the floor should be about 40-60%. The floorboard can be laid different ways: according to the so-called parquet technology and on logs.

The first way(parquet technology) consists in laying the boards on a prepared flat base, for example, waterproof plywood, chipboard. It is preferable if the thickness of the board is not more than 25 mm and the developer does not want to reduce the height of the room. The floor thickness in this case will be 30-40 mm, including waterproofing, plywood and the board itself.

Second way(laying on logs) has several features. Firstly, the thickness of the boards should be 40 mm (depending on the species and type of wood, and slightly less), since the material should withstand normal load without noticeable deflections. Secondly, the height of the room ceilings will decrease by 65-90 mm. If the ceilings are high enough, this feature may not be attributed to disadvantages. The obvious advantage of this installation method is the ability to smooth out almost any differences in floor level without additional costs and weighting the structure that occurs when leveling the floor with a cement screed or self-leveling mixture. In addition, electrical wiring, telephone and antenna cables can be installed under the floor.

Preparatory work before laying the logs on the overlap of the underground garage

The first thing to do is to determine the quality of the subfloor (monolith or cement screed). The quality of the tie is checked by visual inspection and tapping. A good screed must not have cracks. The sections of the screed that have peeled off as a result of knocking must be replaced. It takes 30 days for the screed to completely dry and the humidity in the room to return to normal. After that, hydro and sound insulation is laid. Strips of rolled polyethylene with an overlap of 20 cm are laid on the screed.

To increase sound insulation, an additional layer of pressed cork or sheet rubber can be placed on the screed.

Sometimes polyethylene foam with a thickness of 3-3.5 mm is used, which simultaneously serves as both waterproofing and soundproofing. Sound insulating material laid directly on the waterproofing film end-to-end and fasten the joints with tape.

What should be the lags

For logs, non-planed boards of the 2nd and 3rd grades are used from healthy coniferous and deciduous wood, with the exception of linden and poplar. Boards can be blunt without bark. The thickness of the logs, resting with the entire lower surface on the floor slabs or soundproofing layer, should be 40 mm, width - 80-100 mm. The thickness of the logs laid on separate supports (pillars in the floors on the ground, floor beams, etc.) should be 40-50 mm, width - 100-120 mm. The width of the wooden spacers laid on the posts under the logs in the floors on the ground should be 100-150 mm, the length - 0.2-0.25 m, the thickness - at least 25 mm.

Laying logs on the overlap of an underground garage

This is one of the most demanding jobs, since the strength and durability of the entire floor structure depends on it. As a lag, a 50x100 mm timber is used, which is pre-dried and covered with a wood preservative. The moisture content of the log at the time of installation should not exceed 15%. But it is better to dry the timber before laying. During the drying process, it can bend or twist, and such bars are necessarily rejected.

The direction of laying the boards can be any and depends on the wishes of the designer and builder. However, the logs should always be perpendicular to the boards. Usually, the floorboard is laid along the direction of light from the window, therefore, the logs are laid perpendicular to this direction with a step of 50-55 cm. The length of the step depends on the thickness of the board and the type of wood from which it is made. The thicker and stronger the board, the more load it can withstand, therefore, the distance between the lags can be greater.

Mount lag

The wooden floor must have a zero slope, so the logs must be constantly checked before fastening with a level or level along and across the room. It is recommended to fasten the ends of the logs so that they do not disperse when laying the boards.

Lags are attached to concrete base dowel-nails 120 mm long every 0.5 m and leveled with wooden wedges.

Currently, there are adjustable joists on sale, which are leveled with special spacer screws. This greatly simplifies and speeds up the installation process, but increases the cost of floor production and slightly reduces the height of the ceilings. To improve sound insulation and exclude the resonance of the floor voids when walking, the cavities between the logs can be filled with wood-fiber boards in 2-3 layers.

Floorboard flooring

After installing and leveling the lag and laying fiberboard proceed directly to the flooring of the floorboard. It is necessary to lay the floor so that the annual rings of adjacent boards are directed towards opposite sides... The first row of boards is laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall and aligned along the stretched thread. Boards are attached to each log. Each subsequent board is put on a thorn, knocked out with a mallet and nailed 100-120 mm. The dimensions of the boards themselves are selected (if necessary, they are cut down) so that the joints between them are in the middle of the lag and are located exactly at right angles to the long edge of the board.

For ventilation in wooden floor in the corners of the room, it is advisable to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm, which are closed with a lattice.

On the top of the beams, grooves up to 20 mm are cut out to their entire width, which also improve air circulation. The gaps between the wall and the floor are covered with skirting boards. Skirting board is a figured strip 20-50 mm wide and 40-70 mm high. TV and telephone cables can be passed under the skirting board. For this, as well as for ventilation, the back of the skirting board is made with a removable chamfer. After laying the cables (if necessary), the plinth is fastened to the wall with nails or screws, and the holes are sealed with mastic or plastic plugs.

Sanding plank floor

The best way to sand plank floors is to use a mobile floor sander. With removable sanding belts of various grain sizes: coarse - for processing hard wood, medium - for soft wood and fine - for final finishing... For grinding the floor near walls and other areas not accessible to a floor machine, use an angle grinder ("grinder") with abrasive nozzles of different grain sizes.

The floor is sanded in several passes, gradually reducing the grain size of the sanding belt (circle). Between the first and second sanding with a special putty mixed with wood dust, minor gaps and wood flaws are closed. After that, the cracks are made completely invisible.

Painting, varnishing

Immediately before painting, you must thoroughly vacuum the floor, clean it from wood residues and dust. The surface can be treated with a tinting compound. Parquet varnish (preferably on a polyurethane base) is applied in several layers: usually in two layers, but a third may be needed.

At present, strong and stable nitro-varnishes, not convenient to use and non-hazardous to human health, are gradually being replaced by one-component polyurethane and acrylatex compounds, which are diluted with water. They are easy to apply, dry quickly and have almost no smell.

Polyurethane varnish is usually applied in two coats. Varnish and paint are applied along the boards. The first layer should not be too thick. The second coat is usually applied after two hours.

Overlapping in wooden house

The structure on which the floors of the first floor are located is called the basement floor. The main bearing elements of the basement overlap are brick posts with a section of 25x25 cm. solid brick grade 75 (not less) on cement mortar grade 25. The distance between the posts should be within 0.5-1 m. After waterproofing, beams or logs are placed on the posts, on which the floors are then laid.

Beams without intermediate supports

In the case when it is possible to use a sufficiently strong and long beam, basement floor is installed along the beams. If the beams are laid 0.6 m apart, then the floorboards should be at least 28 mm thick. With a distance between the beams of 0.75 m, floorboards with a thickness of 36 mm are used. So that the boards do not warp and there are no gaps between them, their width should not exceed 12 cm. Lags and boards do not reach the walls by 2-3 cm. The gaps between the flooring and the walls are closed with a plinth.

Plank flooring technology wooden floors

The boards should be selected so that the cleanest of them, without knots, chips and other defects, are laid in rooms, and with defects in corridors, half-dark and dark rooms... The boards should not contain woodworm beetles or traces of mold of house fungus. Therefore, it is imperative to carry out antiseptic treatment.

Plank floors are laid directly along the beams, if their step is relatively small. With a sparse arrangement of beams, it is necessary to lay logs with the desired step, and already fill the boards along them. The logs are located at a distance between the axes of 800-850 mm for boards with a thickness of 35-40 mm. With thicker boards, the step between the logs can be increased to 1 m, with thinner boards - reduced to 500-600 mm.

The wooden floor must have a zero slope, so beams and joists must be constantly checked with a level or level along and across the room.

It is recommended to fasten the ends of the logs so that they do not diverge when laying the boards. The floor should fit snugly against beams or joists and not bend. It is not recommended to put chips or wedges under logs and boards, as they fall out from vibration and the floors become unstable. If, nevertheless, wedges are necessary, then they need to be fixed with nails.

Fastening plank floors to wooden floors

The first board is attached to the log with nails, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the boards. Nails are driven in one (two) into each lag, driving the cap 2-3 mm deep.

The gap between the boards should be no more than 1 mm.

Before painting the floors, the grooves around the caps are putty. For a tight installation of the next board (so that it does not give a rebound), a tongue-and-groove bar is laid on the next lag and wedged with an emphasis in a steel bracket. This technique is called rallying. In order not to damage the boards, hit them with a hammer through a wooden gasket.

Planking " parquet way»

A nail is driven into the first board closer to the wall so that its head is under the plinth. Then a nail is driven into each lag at an angle of 45 °. inner corner comb, and the hat is "drowned" in the thickness of the wood. The second board is applied to the first board, putting a groove on the ridge and pressing it with staples and wedges. Nails should be driven first into the extreme lags, then into the remaining ones. The last boards should be pressed with a wedge and a straight nail driven vertically into the plinth area.

Plank floor ventilation

To prevent the development of mold, a ventilated space should be provided under the floor surface, and it is advisable to place special ventilation grilles in the floor itself (at least two in each room). V large rooms put four grates. They are placed in the corners at a distance of 150-200 mm from the baseboards.

Sometimes, instead of gratings, several holes with a diameter of 1 cm are drilled in the plinth at a distance of 500-600 mm. Under the logs, resting on brick posts, to ensure waterproofing and protect the wood from mold, two layers of roofing material should be placed.

Milled plank floors

Thanks to the tongue-and-groove edges, milled plank floors are characterized by increased density, evenness and a lower tendency to deform with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. The width of such boards should be 68-138 mm, and the thickness should be 28 or 36 mm. At the bottom of each board, a longitudinal recess (air) with a height of 2 mm is selected, which provides a tighter contact with the logs and constant air circulation throughout the inter-lag space. It is necessary to prevent the development of mold and dry out the floor covering.

Grooved plank floors

Lower grooves are not made on sheet piling boards, and it is more difficult to lay them, since at the slightest unevenness the boards cannot be laid tightly on logs or beams, and irregularities have to be removed with a sharp edge. For grooved boards, the front side is planed, and seams are selected from the edges. In addition, such boards may have grooves on both sides, which are connected by a rail during assembly. The density of such floors and the quality of the finish are higher than those of milled ones.

Siberian larch floors

Siberian larch has a high density, so sometimes you can use boards with a smaller section and thereby save material. By the way, unlike some types of parquet boards, where technologies are used for gluing veneer of hard wood (usually oak) on a base made of soft wood, larch flooring is monolithic, has a homogeneous structure, and this leads to its exceptional resistance to wear.

Of course, due to its natural strength, the traditional species for making parquet is oak. It should be noted, however, that the world stocks of oak suitable for the production of flooring are limited, the cost of this wood for last years increased significantly. But with the advent of new technologies for processing Siberian larch, it is she who can become the main material for the production of parquet and other floor coverings.

The main advantages of Siberian larch floors

Larch parquet board is particularly hard, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant, which makes the floor so durable. Thanks to the use of modern equipment, the parquet board has an ideal geometry, and the floor is smooth and airtight. The products are made without knots and defects on the working surface of the floor. Smooth sanding parquet boards forms a surface ideal for tinting, varnishing or waxing, without prior sanding.

Environmentally friendly raw materials used in the production of parquet boards make it possible to use them in children's rooms and bedrooms.

Convenient docking system (groove-comb on four sides of the board) will help make the process easy styling and fast. The minimum thickness of the parquet board is 20 mm and the groove - the ridge shifted to the bottom - allows to significantly increase the service life of the coating due to a large number possible scraping. Along the perimeter of the board, an "anti-tiscol" chamfer is made, which makes it possible to reduce the likelihood of splitting the edge of the board during laying and favorably distinguishes the outline of the boards against the general background of the floor surface.

Floor technology from wood-based panels

For the construction of floors, super-hard plates with a thickness of 20 mm with a top wear layer of 5 mm are used. The joints of the slabs should be located on the center lines of the lags. It is not allowed to hang the slabs from the log by more than 100 mm.

They begin to lay slabs along the logs from one of the longitudinal walls usually farthest from the door. A gap of 10-15 mm is left near the wall, then covered with plinths. After aligning the lighthouse plate, it is attached to each log with nails 50-60 mm and a diameter of 2.5-3 mm or screws 35-40 mm long and 4 mm in diameter. Nails are driven along the edge of the slab every 200 mm, screws are placed every 300-350 mm. The following slabs are laid similarly to the lighthouse with a minimum gap of up to 1 mm. Then the plinths are installed, the joints and the heads of the nails are plastered, the surface is sanded and covered with two layers of varnish. Upper layer applied after the bottom layer has dried.

Placing a new floor on an old one

Before starting work, it is necessary to make sure that the old floor can withstand the loads and that there is moisture protection under it. If the base is reliable, then it is permissible to lay the waterproofing on the old coating, having previously done a rough grinding with an abrasive belt with a grain size of 40-60 units. It is not necessary to change the direction of laying the new coating in relation to the old one. It is enough to cover the old floor with sheets of plywood and lay a new coating on it. However, the diagonal and lateral directions of the new coating in relation to the old one are optimal.

Pros and cons of plank floors

Plank floors are a reliable and easy-to-use type of flooring, which is quite common in individual construction. The simplicity of the device is their main advantage. These floors are very warm and easy to repair. The disadvantages include low decorative qualities and such a fairly common phenomenon as creaking.

Floor insulation

Floor structures must be insulated with any effective heat insulator. However, we must not forget that wooden structures must be isolated from the insulating material. To do this, you can use a polymer film, glassine or clay grease.

Prepared by A. Svatkov