How to make a floor from a floorboard. Secrets and features of laying the floorboard

Without exaggeration, we can say that this version of flooring has been tested for centuries. The technology of laying a wooden floor on logs with minor changes has been used for several centuries. This is the most environmentally friendly solution for flooring, but at the same time, this coating has a number of disadvantages and important nuances that you need to know before starting work.

Currently, the main area of ​​application of wooden flooring is the construction of small private houses. Especially often the floor on the logs is arranged in wooden houses and log cabins, in which the floors between the floors are made of beams.

Much less often, a wooden floor is laid in city apartments with reinforced concrete floors. Nevertheless, the technology is still used, especially in cases where pouring a full-fledged leveling screed is impossible for some reason.

Sometimes plank flooring is the finish and part of the designer's idea for the renovation concept. In this case, beautiful wood species, such as oak, larch or pine, are chosen for flooring. The boards are carefully polished, impregnated with an antiseptic and varnished or waxed. The result is a very beautiful and durable coating, pleasing to the eye with a natural wood texture.

A wooden floor can be used even in damp rooms, such as saunas and bathrooms. However, this is done infrequently, as it requires careful selection of wood, reliable waterproofing and impregnation of boards with very expensive solutions that prevent moisture absorption.

Features of laying a wooden floor on logs

The main feature of this type of floor, which must be taken into account, is that wood can absorb moisture from the environment, deform during temperature changes, and is also prone to decay. Therefore, when laying a wooden floor, it is extremely important to take care of a reliable vapor barrier and impregnate the logs and boards with an antiseptic.

It is necessary to fasten the logs to the base and the floor boards to the logs as reliably as possible, it is necessary to prevent the formation of cracks, voids and “sagging” of the boards and logs. When laying the topcoat boards, it is imperative to use expanding wedges that will press the boards as tightly as possible to each other.

Wood screws provide maximum security. The length of the screw must exceed the thickness of the board to be fixed by at least 2.5 times. To prevent the board from splitting when you screw in the self-tapping screw, you must first drill a hole in it with a diameter of 2-3 mm less than the diameter of the screw.

If the boards are planned as a finishing coating, then care should be taken to hide the heads of self-tapping screws or nails. To do this, either a special putty is used, or small plugs from the same type of wood as the entire floor. But the best option is to screw the screw into the chamfer of the board at an angle to the log. The disadvantage of this option is the high labor intensity.

Care should also be taken that all the finishing boards are from the same lot, because the color of the wood depends on the growing conditions, and the shade of different lots may vary.

What are the consequences of mistakes when laying a wooden floor on logs

The biggest mistake that can be made when laying a wooden floor is insufficient vapor barrier. Usually it is made of dense polyethylene or penofol, which also provides additional sound insulation. If this step is neglected or if the insulation coating is damaged, the floor will soon begin to rot and mold will appear on it. This will not only shorten the life of the floor at times, but can also adversely affect people's health.

The second most common mistake is not using wood that is not dry enough. Humidity of boards and a log has to be no more than 15%. It is important to remember that in wet weather, even initially dry boards very quickly absorb moisture from the air. If there are prolonged rains outside the window, then it is better to refuse laying the floor these days. If you lay the floor from damp boards, then as they dry, they will begin to deform. This will lead to creaking, cracks and height differences between adjacent boards, which, in turn, will affect the finish.

An insufficiently accurately set level when laying the log will lead to floor creaking and gradual loosening of the boards. This will greatly reduce the life of the coating and will require periodic repairs.

Another common mistake is the insufficient distance from the edge board to the wall, it must be at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood. If it is neglected, then with a seasonal change in temperature, the floor will experience very serious internal loads, which will lead to cracking of some boards and the appearance of a creak.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden floor on logs

Advantages of this coverage

Cons of a wooden floor on logs

Step-by-step instructions for laying a wooden floor on logs

Below is a step by step guide to laying wood flooring. The device of such a floor in a private house with a soil base is somewhat more complicated than in a house with a reinforced concrete base, but in general the stages of work are the same in both cases.

Laying a log on a soil base

If you are laying a wooden floor directly above the ground, then it must be cleaned of sod and plant roots and a layer of at least 20 cm thick removed. After that, the soil is covered with fine gravel and carefully compacted.

On this basis, brick columns are built with a section of 250 x 250 mm and a height of at least two layers of bricks. The tops of all columns should be at the same level, this will prevent sagging of the log and floor boards.

If bars 100 x 50 mm and up to 3 meters long are used as a log, then two posts along the edges of the log are enough. The distance between the lags, and therefore between adjacent posts, should be 600 mm. If the length of the log is more than 3 meters, then one is strengthened with an additional column in the middle.

The top of the column is lined with a rigid waterproofing material, for example, a dense plastic film. Wooden spacers or wedges are installed on top of it, which are necessary for the final adjustment of the horizontal lag.

After that, you can start laying the lag. Initially, two extreme logs are laid according to the level. A fishing line is stretched between them, along which all the other logs are exposed. Adjustment is carried out using shims or wedges. Fastening the log to the posts is carried out using anchor bolts.

In this case, the procedure is much simplified, it is enough to cover the floor with waterproofing, for example, made of polyethylene, logs are laid on top of it at a distance of 400-600 mm on wooden control pads. First, two extreme logs are laid according to the level, after which a fishing line is stretched between them, along which the height of all other logs is adjusted.

Adjustment is carried out by adding or, conversely, removing adjusting shims.

At present, the use of adjustable logs is sometimes practiced. These logs have drilled threaded holes into which a special stud is screwed, which is attached to the concrete base with dowels. Turning the pin adjusts the height of the joist.

After all the lags are set at the same level, the protruding parts of the studs are cut off with a grinder. This method greatly simplifies the alignment of the lag horizontally, but is not used very widely due to a noticeable increase in the cost of the structure.

Legs on clamps are adjustable

It is important to remember that a distance of at least 10 mm must remain between the edges of the log and the wall. It is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood.

Floor preparation

Before you start laying the boards, you need to lay a layer of thermal insulation between the lags. It can be mineral wool or polystyrene. At the same stage, wires in a plastic corrugation can be laid between the logs, if necessary. The standard width of insulation sheets is most often 600 mm, which makes it easy to lay it between the lag.

After all the necessary communications and insulation have been laid, you can start laying the subfloor or finishing floor.

Laying rough wood flooring

If the use of laminate, carpet or linoleum is supposed to be used as a finishing coating, then, as a rule, a rough coating of uncut boards, plywood or fiberboard is laid on the logs.

Sheets of plywood or fiberboard are laid on logs and fixed with nails or screws. You should not save on attachment points, screws should be screwed into each lag with an interval of no more than 30 cm. The screw or nail head should be recessed into the plate by 1-2 mm. It is important to leave a distance of at least 10 mm between the wall and the coating. This gap will also provide ventilation of the space under the floor. After 2-3 weeks after the end of the work, it can be closed with a plinth.

When laying the subfloor from the boards, it is necessary to start work from the far corner of the room and move towards the entrance. The length of the boards is selected in such a way that their joint falls in the middle of the log. Boards are stacked as close as possible to each other and fixed with screws. In order to prevent the board from splitting when screwing in the screw, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole for it with a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. With a drill of a slightly larger diameter, you need to make a small recess in which the screw head will hide.

Finished wood flooring

As a finishing finish, a seamed board or a board made of glued laminated timber is usually used. These boards must be impregnated with a protective antiseptic solution. There are some nuances in laying such boards. Since this floor will no longer be covered with anything, it is extremely important to avoid the slightest gaps between the boards, and it is also important to hide the heads of the screws so that they do not spoil the appearance of the floor.

Laying seamed boards is carried out according to the same principle as laying boards for a subfloor, with the only difference being that two adjacent boards are pressed against each other as tightly as possible. To do this, a bracket is driven into the log at a distance of 4-6 cm from the board, between which and the edge of the board a wedge is installed, pressing the board. When the pressing of the board is maximum, it is fixed with screws, after which the wedge and bracket are removed. The operation must be repeated for each row of boards, this will eliminate the formation of cracks. The board is attached to the joist with a screw, which is screwed into the chamfer at an angle, this allows you to hide its cap and improve the appearance of the floor. You can also use special decorative floor nails, driving them strictly through an equal distance, but this is a compromise, the absence of visible fastening looks much better.

Comparative characteristics of the floorboard

Batten. Prices

Video - Laying a wooden floor on logs

Any construction or major repairs in the room provide for the arrangement of the floor. Despite the large range of products that can be used for this, in most cases (for residential buildings) owners prefer wood as a “finishing” coating. A lot has been written about its positive qualities, and first of all, environmental friendliness.

The main type of products intended for finishing floors was and remains a board. It is much easier to work with it, so you can carry out all the activities (with some skill and observance of the installation rules) on your own. This allows you to significantly save money, since you do not have to pay hired specialists.

Laying the board with your own hands, in our opinion, has another significant "plus" that many do not take into account. Let's look at this problem from the point of view of further exploitation. Wood gradually “gets rid” of moisture (and it is present in any wooden blank, even the most dried one), or, as they say in such cases, the material “shrinks”. Changing the geometry of the boards leads to the formation of cracks, a creak appears, the floorboards begin to “rise”. You can list all the possible surprises for a long time.

But the caveat is that the process of "shrinkage" can sometimes take quite a lot of time. It depends on local conditions (temperature and humidity in the room, ventilation, the specifics of the surface treatment of floors and a number of other points), as well as on the features of operation (for example, the degree of loading). By the way, a possible marriage in some workpiece, which was invisible during installation, can also appear after some time. From this, unfortunately, no one is immune.

Therefore, there is no guarantee that in six months or a year the boards will not “lead”. To whom then to make claims and how to legally competently argue them? Most likely, you will have to invite a specialist again (naturally, already another, “more competent”), which means you have to pay again.

But if the owner did everything himself, from beginning to end, with knowledge of the matter, then he will determine and eliminate the cause of any “malfunction” that has arisen quite quickly, without outside help, at any time suitable for this. We dwelled on this issue in such detail so that all the “pitfalls” that accompany the work of laying floorboards become “understandable”. Therefore, strict implementation of all recommendations is mandatory. Do not neglect the conduct of one or another, at first glance, even an insignificant operation.

There are several basic methods for mounting boards, one of which we will consider. But first, let's note what surface they can be laid on (what kind of “base” should be prepared):

• "rough floor";
• concrete, cement, self-leveling screed ();
• plywood, chipboard sheets or other even base.

Regardless of which method is chosen, the suitability of the "base" must be determined. This is especially important if the boards are supposed to be laid on a screed or concrete (reinforced concrete slabs, "pouring"). The point, again, in particular wood to absorb moisture. It is necessary to determine whether the “base” has dried out sufficiently. After all, the evaporation of liquids occurs in the direction from the bottom up. Therefore, it is impossible to lay boards on a damp base.

We check with a film

Part of the surface is covered with polyethylene, and its edges along the perimeter are glued to the base (for example, with adhesive tape). The task is to completely seal this area. If the screed (or concrete) is not dry enough, then after about 12 - 24 hours (depending on the temperature in the room), moisture droplets will appear on the inside of the film.

piece of rubber

The principle is the same. Such a "rug" lies on the floor, and on top - some kind of load. If after the specified time a stain forms in this place, then the base is still damp.

What to consider when laying a board

Regardless of how the board will be installed, some additional measures need to be taken. Their expediency is determined by local conditions. We will simply list them.

Foundation preparation

After laying the boards, it will be inaccessible. Therefore, it is worth worrying about its integrity in advance. This is especially important for apartments located in multi-storey buildings. You need to understand that any gap, an unsealed joint is a “path” along which heat leaves the room and sounds penetrate. Therefore, the base must not only be cleaned of debris, but also washed (if it is concrete). Then all its defects will be visible. By the way, for some reason, many people neglect this, absolutely not thinking about the importance of this stage.

Hydro and vapor barrier

There is no point in talking about the need for this. First, wood needs to breathe. Secondly, the risk of even an accidental underlying floor is minimized. By the way, such a small “nuisance” often entails large financial losses in the form of monetary compensation for material damage.

Warming

For owners of private housing, this allows you to significantly save on heating, and for residents of the first floors - to avoid drafts and cold floors.

When choosing one or another method of arranging the covering from the boards, all these factors must be taken into account. Consider the most common and easily implemented method.

Laying boards using a log

This method has, perhaps, the only drawback, although it is relative - a decrease in the height of the room (thickness of the boards and lag). But there are more than enough advantages, especially since this technique is much simpler. The thickness of the logs are selected taking into account the preliminary finishing and material for insulation. It is advisable to use solid bars, and not "composite".

Mounting Features

• all wood must be dried in advance and (flame retardants and antiseptics);
• the interval between the lags is determined by the thickness of the board. The thinner it is, the more often supports are placed. In addition, the specifics of the premises, the "load" of the floors are taken into account. For example, the presence (or absence) of heavy furniture and the like;
• it must be taken into account that the boards are laid perpendicular to the lags. And how to lay them depends on several factors: the location of the door, windows, the illumination of the room;
• the lag is fastened depending on the base - with screws (with dowels), nails, landing on a mortar or mastic. The main thing is that all their upper surfaces are located in one, strictly horizontal plane. This is easy to check with the help of a level (building) and a long rail, which is superimposed on top in various directions. In this way, any distortion can be determined. To eliminate it, you can, for example, knock out wedges or use another alignment method;
• boards are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is much better than nails, since you may have to change one of them later. Such fasteners simply unscrew;
• if laying is done on an old board, then it is made perpendicular. While maintaining the direction of the location of the floorboards on the "rough" floor, plywood should be filled;
• a tight fit of the boards to each other is done with the help of a stop from a piece of board or bar.

The final stage is the grinding of the coating and the installation of skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. After that, further cladding is carried out (linoleum flooring, application of paint and varnish compositions).

Other techniques involve careful leveling of the base. This is a rather complex and painstaking work, which has many nuances. In addition, all activities are carried out in different ways, depending on the material of the "base" and the financial capabilities of the owners of the home.

• You should not start laying boards immediately after purchasing them. Experts recommend bringing them indoors and leaving them there for a couple of days. The material must "get used" to the microclimate that has been established in this room. If the arrangement of the floors is carried out in the "new building", then such work begins after the installation of windows and doors.
• When laying on logs, it is advisable to use a beam equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height. This will greatly facilitate the process of leveling the surface.

In the construction market, the floorboard is a fairly old material. It is used not only in country wooden houses or cottages. The wooden floor looks very good in city apartments. The floorboard is better than laminate and no worse than parquet.

The difference between a floorboard and parquet or laminate is that it is made from solid wood. On the one hand, the floorboard has a spike, and on the other - a groove, which allows you to link the boards together. On the inside of the board there are one or more notches. This allows you to relieve stress from the board and protect against the effects of temperature changes and moisture, such as warping.

Advantages and disadvantages of floorboards

Advantages:

• Long service life - with proper care, the board can last more than a dozen years.
• If necessary, the floors are easily repaired.
• Low price.
• Beautiful and unique appearance.
• Ecological safety - boards are made from natural materials.
• High strength and reliability.
• Low thermal conductivity, thanks to which the floors remain warm for a long time.
• If not varnished, the board has antistatic and anti-allergic properties.

Flaws:

• Bad soundproofing.
• Since it is wood, it cannot be exposed to moisture for a long time.
• Without varnish, the surface wears out quickly, so the floorboard must be treated with a paintwork, which is periodically updated.
• The board is scratched, dents from something heavy remain on it.
• The floor board is flammable.
• May rot and be attacked by insects and rodents.
• May swell, dry out, crack.

Floorboard Specifications

Produce boards with a thickness of 1.8 to 4.2 cm, a width of 8.5-1.5 cm, a length of 90-600 cm.

Hardness floorboards are determined by the Brinell method, hardness values ​​​​from 1.5 to 7. The higher the number, the greater the hardness. Most often, oak (3.7) or larch (3.1) floors are used. Their strength allows them to withstand any load. Larch is used in rooms with high humidity: bath, sauna, bathroom. In impassable rooms, for example, in a nursery or bedroom, boards of alder or aspen are laid. Softwood boards (1.5−2) are used for the subfloor.

Often such a mistake: for strength, they buy a thick (40 mm) board, which is expensive, but at the same time it is raw. The apparent savings can be costly later, since an uncured floorboard can warp so much that the self-tapping screws fly out.

materials share for several varieties. The upper class is distinguished by a smooth surface, a beautiful pattern. After laying such floors, it is enough just to cover with paints and varnishes. Boards of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd grades have a pronounced woody pattern of knots. Wood of the 3rd grade does not make sense to paint, it is covered only with varnish.

Features of laying the floorboard

Buying genital boards, you need to check their compatibility so that later there are no problems during installation. A quality board should be free of cracks or chips.

Mounting the floorboard is carried out as the final stage of the construction of the premises. Windows must already be inserted, doors installed, walls and floor must be leveled.

Before laying the floorboard, it must be taken out of the packaging and placed in the room where it will be laid out. The board should lie down for 3 days to adapt to the microclimate of the room.

Level humidity floorboard should not exceed 12%. Humidity in the room should not be below 40%, otherwise the board will dry out, and above 80%, so that the floor does not swell. The air temperature should be between 17-25 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, the board loses its practical and aesthetic properties.

lags, then it should be borne in mind that the floor will rise by 15 cm. Therefore, in rooms with a low ceiling, you need to choose a different installation method.

Stages of laying floorboards

1. Waterproofing.
2. Installation of the lag system.
3. Sound and heat insulation.
4. Installation of floor boards.
5. Sanding the floor along, across and diagonally across the boards.
6. Coating with paintwork materials.

Floor plank option

Batten fit on a concrete, plywood base and on the old floor.

The concrete base must be checked for humidity. There are 3 ways to do this:

1. A plastic film with an area of ​​​​one square meter is glued to concrete with adhesive tape, after a day it is removed and checked for the presence of a wet spot. If it is, lay the floorboard early.
2. A brick is placed on the rubber mat, then the steps are as in the first method.
3. Use a special device to determine the humidity.

The first two methods are effective only if the concrete is light. On dark concrete, the wet spot will not be visible.

After determining the moisture content, the concrete is laid waterproofing layer. It is recommended to make it from roofing material, plastic film or mastic. The film and roofing felt must have a thickness of 2 mm, the layers are overlapped and butt-to-wall with the wall. After that, the floorboard is laid on logs or plywood.

Plywood for the base take a thickness of at least 18 mm, moisture resistant. Plywood is cut into sheets 50 cm wide. They are fixed diagonally with respect to the floorboard. Plywood is mounted using screws that are driven into it 3 mm deep. Between the plywood and the wall there should be a distance of 10 mm, between the strips of plywood 2-3 mm. After laying, plywood is sanded, cleaned of dust, and only then can lay down floorboard.

If the floorboard is laid on old floor, then it is checked for strength, strengthened and cleaned. If some boards have deteriorated, they are replaced with inexpensive lumber. After checking, the old floor is sanded, dusted and waterproofed from above. New boards are laid perpendicularly or diagonally. To ensure that the new floor is laid in the same direction as the old one, use plywood.

Floorboard installation technology

Floor boards are laid so that they are are parallel the wall where the window is. In places of greatest traffic (corridor, vestibule), they are installed perpendicular to the direction of movement.

Boards are laid with displacement(in a run) or without it. To lay the boards with an offset, you need to cut them exactly at a right angle. To facilitate the work, you can make a template according to which the boards will be sawn off.

The first floorboard is laid crest to the wall and nailed with screws to the base. The second board is attached to the first using a hammer and an auxiliary element with a spike. It is important to use self-tapping screws, not nails, the latter can rust and their caps rise.

self-tapping screws screw in 45 degree angle or right angle. In the latter case, they are sealed with a sealant, which gives additional strength. But the first option is more aesthetic.

Wood plank floor care

Floors required sweeping and wash with a little water. Dirt can be removed with neutral detergents. To prevent street dirt from getting on the floorboard, rugs are placed in front of the entrance, which delay it. If the wooden floor is laid in the kitchen, then the board is varnished in several layers, since there is a possibility of liquid getting on the floor. New scratches cover varnish or oil.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to do the installation of the floorboard yourself without the help of specialists. The main thing is to take into account the peculiarities of working with solid wood: do not expose to moisture, properly fasten and care for. It is important not to save on new flooring, but to choose quality boards and related materials.

If you notice that the time has come to replace the floors in your apartment, then, undoubtedly, the choice should be made in favor of the floor from the boards. Environmentally friendly material and the warmth of such a floor will more than pay off all financial expenses. The material, of course, must be expensive, of high quality and without any defects. But there is still a way to save money - this is laying the floor board with your own hands.

Thus, you will be able to save an impressive amount of money, professionals evaluate the provision of their services very expensively. But before embarking on such complex and time-consuming work, it is necessary to thoroughly and carefully study the information, learn everything about laying the floor from the boards.

The floor from the boards normalizes the microclimate of the dwelling. It has huge advantages, for example, maintains a comfortable level of moisture, has excellent sound insulation and a wonderful appearance, retains heat.

Laying boards can be carried out on the following surfaces:

• concrete floor;
• lags;
• plywood;
• old wooden floor.

Remember one of the main rules: observe the correct level of humidity in the apartment. If this is ignored, then in the future the wood may become deformed, the boards may shrivel or crack.

Materials must be kept indoors for at least 3 days prior to laying in order to fully adapt to the surrounding atmosphere.

What may be required for work

Logs (wooden bars) - this is the most common way of laying the floor.

Required tools:

• maximum length level;
• ruler 2-3 m long;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw;
• a circular saw;
• plane;
• nail puller;
• pencil.

Materials:

• boards;
• skirting boards;
• slats;
• primer;
• varnish, paint.

The first step - the logs are fixed to the main coating with self-tapping screws. The second step - after the installation is completed, it is necessary to plan the system and make it smooth. You need to strive for a perfectly flat surface.

The third stage of this multi-level construction is the laying of plywood, which needs to be cut into longitudinal sheets. These segments are stacked strictly diagonally.

The fourth step is to securely fasten the plywood with screws. Remember to leave seams between sheets.

The fifth step - this surface must be carefully sanded.

The sixth step is to clean the base for laying floors from dirt and dust after the sanding process.

The seventh step is applying primer to the surface.

The eighth step is the transition directly to laying the board. Boards are securely fastened, polished. Then comes the processing of paint and varnish.

This is how they lay the floors from the board with their own hands. This work will require a lot of patience and attention. Everything must be done accurately, accurately and reliably. Unless, of course, you want to redo everything anew after a few years.

How to install plank flooring on top of an existing floor?

1. First of all, examine the old floor with a critical and picky look. If you notice an unreliable and badly worn board, then by all means replace it.
2. When installing a floor with such a base, the boards are laid perpendicular to the old floor.
3. Such a foundation is not recommended by specialists, but if you are convinced that the floor is reliable, strong and durable, then feel free to proceed with the action.

How to properly insulate and insulate such floors? These actions are necessary, but they are very simple and do not cause difficulties even for a beginner.

For insulation, you will need basalt wool. It should be laid between the lags, and covered with vapor-tight waterproofing on top. If you want to protect the wood from the nuisance of rotting, you will need a high-capacity waterproofing membrane. Compliance with these simple and elementary conditions will allow you to enjoy a good floor for a long time and keep its original appearance.

Installation of grooved boards

Successful will be the laying of the boards, which lies parallel to the sunlight. Remember that it will be very difficult for a beginner to make such floors. This requires experience and skill, but if you still decide, then get a special template with which you will cut the material.

1. There must be a gap between the floor covering and the walls.
2. Upon completion of the installation, all this will be closed with a plinth.
3. It all starts with the first board, which must be laid with a mounting ledge to the wall.
4. It is followed by the second. You combine the tongue and groove. Such boards are fixed with self-tapping screws.
5. Boards are fastened with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter of the room.
6. Next comes sanding and painting or varnishing.

How to lay parquet

The parquet floor looks expensive and luxurious. It is a noble, durable and reliable floor. This is a very complex design, in order to achieve a perfect appearance, you will have to work hard. The most reliable method is laying parquet tiles on moisture-resistant plywood.

In order to significantly facilitate the task of installation, the parquet is provided with a system of key connection of boards. That is why everyone can handle it. The work will not cause serious difficulties. By purchasing this material, you will receive installation instructions. But it's too general. Therefore, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with additional information and tips for finishing such a floor.

First of all, there is the finishing of the base for parquet. A special screed is made on the floor, which forms a perfectly flat floor surface. There are two types of screed: wet and dry. This will not affect the quality of the parquet in any way.

Remember that work must be done in a clean manner. It is necessary to clean the room as the floor becomes dirty.

A waterproofing film is laid on the screed. You can use both a special film and a regular one, polyethylene.

A layer of thermal insulation is laid on the film. A roll of material is unwound along the floor butt against the wall. No gaps or seams.

The work on preparing the base is completed, you can proceed to the most interesting stage - laying the parquet. Laying comes from a long wall, the first board is placed in its corner. Special wedges are inserted between all walls and the parquet to be laid to provide the necessary clearance - 1.5 cm. This will help to avoid deformation in the future.

Floors are assembled quickly and easily. The last rows, as a rule, need to be trimmed. When doing this, also remember to keep the gap between the floor and the wall.

If your parquet is with an ornament, the task becomes more complicated, it becomes necessary to select a pattern. Accordingly, the consumption of material also increases. For styling, professionals use a rubber mallet. Gently tap the tile with a hammer so that it lies correctly in the desired position.

All rows are laid in the same way until the floor surface is completely covered.

At the edges, do not forget about the need for gaps.

After all the work is done, carefully remove all the wedges and cut off the layer of waterproofing and film that has come to the surface.

In order to complete the work, you need to nail the baseboards. Do-it-yourself parquet floor is ready for use.

1. Transportation of material must be very careful and careful, make sure that moisture does not get on the tree.
2. For mounting the board, special wood screws are used.
3. Before laying the boards, they are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
4. The gap between the walls and the boards is at least 0.5 cm. This will reduce the noise level.
5. After laying the floor requires careful grinding, then a primer base is applied and the surface is again sanded.
6. Varnishes are applied in three layers, but do not forget that before applying the next layer, the previous one must dry completely.
7. For coating, special paints and varnishes are used with increased resistance to abrasion and loss of the original appearance and properties.
8. Floor boards need to be purchased only the most expensive and high-quality, otherwise everything will become unusable after a few years. Floor repairs, as a rule, are started infrequently, so it makes sense to incur financial losses.
9. If you lay the parquet parallel to the window, then the seams will become almost invisible.
10. When laying the board, glue must be used.

Plank floors look amazing. Wood is the highest quality, harmless and noble material. Whichever floor option you choose, it will be exceptional. In the modern world, all materials for the implementation of such an undertaking are sold in a huge assortment and variety.

But the main function of the floor is, of course, not to attract admiring glances, but reliability, the floor should last for many years and at the same time retain all its positive properties. Therefore, choose this product very carefully, the board must be free of defects and flaws, perfectly flat and smooth. Then the floors will do their job.

Among the many types of modern flooring, decking and flooring remains one of the most popular. If the flooring needs to be done in an open area, the best option is a terrace board, as it does not rot, is not affected by atmospheric phenomena, does not slip, and is durable. The price of a terrace board for a link on a specialized site. If the flooring is done indoors, a floorboard is the best option. The reasons for such popularity of the wooden floor are obvious: it has a low heat transfer, a long service life, it is not difficult to lay the floorboard, but it costs less than parquet and laminate, the wooden floor does not require special maintenance during operation. It is quite possible to make a plank floor on your own, thus saving money - another plus of this coating. Below we will consider the requirements for the material and the technology for laying the floorboard.

What to look for when choosing a floorboard

In most cases, a board made of resinous coniferous wood is laid on the floor, since its cost is relatively low when compared with hardwoods, for example, the same oak. But, on the other hand, a hardwood board lasts much longer, is more stable and better resists aggressive factors. Whatever type of wood you prefer, the floor board must be well dried and treated with pest, fungus and mold repellents.

Many developers prefer to make a floor from a pine board. This is a pretty good alternative to hardwood, and pine is much cheaper than hardwood.

Pine is a traditional material, strong and durable. Pine boards are almost never treated with chemicals, so this material is considered environmentally friendly. A pine board designed for flooring is usually about 14 centimeters wide and about 6 meters long. The humidity of the floorboard should not exceed 10 percent, several knots are allowed per meter of material, provided that they are “live” and do not fall out. The board should not have distortions along the plane, not have deviations along the edge and thickness.

How to install floorboard

The board is mounted in two ways. The first, traditional way - the plank floor is mounted on wooden beams.

The second - the board is attached to the base with self-tapping screws or put on glue.

Laying a wooden floor on logs

If the ceiling height in the room exceeds three meters, or there is a wooden interfloor ceiling, then it is preferable to lay the plank floor on logs, since the height of the floor, together with the logs, is from 8 to 15 centimeters. The board for flooring should have a thickness of at least 3 centimeters.

The technology for laying the floorboard on the logs is as follows:

If the work on laying a wooden floor is carried out on the ground floor, you need to take care of good waterproofing. Most often, roofing material is used for this purpose, the sheets of which are soldered at the joints and overlapped on the walls.

The next step is to install the lag. If you need reliable adhesion of the log to the base, then their thickness of the bars should be 5-7 centimeters. When the logs cannot be attached to the base, then a material with a thickness of at least 7 centimeters is used. In the case when the thickness of the floorboard is 3-3.5 centimeters, the distance between the lags should be from 60 centimeters to one meter.

The material for the log must be treated with an antiseptic. If the logs are adjustable, then they must be installed only on a reliable, even and fairly solid base, for example, on a concrete screed.

To prevent the occurrence of the so-called "drum effect", you need to soundproof the floor. Best suited for this purpose: glass wool, mineral wool, coal slag and, of course, expanded clay. To increase the effectiveness of the sound insulator, a laminate substrate, glassine or synthetic winterizer is laid between the log and the board.

Laying the floorboard is done with the comb forward, the groove towards itself.

The first board is screwed with self-tapping screws or screws so that it can be covered with a plinth. A few more screws are twisted at an angle into the comb. If the floorboard is short, then the joints must be on the logs. The final stage of work is grinding the finished floor and coating it with varnish or paint.

Sand the floor several times in different directions: across, along and diagonally.

Since the wood of coniferous species is mainly used for the plank floor, it is not difficult to grind it. In the process of grinding, wood necessarily raises the pile, therefore, in the process of grinding, the surface is primed several times. Finish grinding is done only along the fibers with fine sandpaper.

To cover a softwood plank floor, it is strongly recommended to use a varnish that gives the material increased strength, this to some extent compensates for the lack of hardness of softwood.

The varnish is applied several times (at least two). If the pile has risen after applying the first coat of varnish, you must wait until the varnish is completely dry, clean the surface with fine sandpaper, and apply the varnish again.

When a plank floor is attached to the base with an adhesive solution, the principle of operation is almost the same as when laying parquet.

The only difference is that glue alone is not enough, and the board must be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden with the help of special plugs. This method of installing a wooden floor is recommended for rooms with relatively low ceilings, since the height of such a floor is small. If the floorboard is attached with glue, it is necessary to ensure that the base and the board itself are perfectly even. A layer of waterproofing is necessarily mounted on the base and moisture-resistant plywood is laid.

When choosing an adhesive for a floorboard, there are a few things to consider. For example, planks about half a meter long can be glued with any adhesive suitable for wood, such as epoxy, polyurethane or dispersion. But if the floorboard is made of beech or expensive exotic woods, the use of dispersed glue should be abandoned.

In the case when the length of the bar exceeds one meter, glue based on synthetic resins, epoxy-polyurethane or two-component polyurethane adhesives is used for its fastening.

In any case, the adhesive composition for the floor must provide maximum bonding strength and at the same time be sufficiently plastic. These requirements are met by one-component and two-component polyurethane formulations, as well as MS polymers.

Plank floor base

The plank floor can be mounted on a concrete floor, an old wooden floor, on a wooden floor and on logs installed on a concrete screed. Each base has its own specification.

Before starting work on the floor, all supporting structures must be ready, windows and doors installed, screed and walls aligned. The room in which the floor will be made must be well dried, humidity exceeding 40% is not allowed. The level of humidity is easily determined by special devices. In the absence of such, you can use proven folk methods:

• With polyethylene. The material is fixed with adhesive tape to the concrete surface, and removed after a day. If a wet spot remains at this place, then the concrete is still damp.

• Using a rubber mat, which is pressed against the screed with a heavy object. If after a day the concrete in this place darkened, then the humidity level is still quite high.

Laying a wooden floor on a concrete base

At the first stage of work, a moisture-proof barrier is made between the board and the concrete base. To do this, a layer of soil mastic is applied to the concrete base, or a plastic film is laid. The mastic is applied with a roller, if necessary, a solvent is used. The film is overlapped, gaps are not allowed. The use of a polyethylene film with a thickness of 2-3 mm is the best option.

The floorboard is laid on a concrete base in two ways:

• On wooden blocks.
• On plywood.

Humidity of wooden bars-lags should not exceed the allowable rate of 18-20%. The bars are screwed to the concrete base with self-tapping screws. In order not to damage the communication wires laid in concrete during the fastening process, you can refuse to use self-tapping screws and glue the logs with bituminous mastic, which will also act as waterproofing. A layer of insulation is laid between the lags. Logs before laying the boards are covered with plastic wrap.

For the plywood base, moisture-resistant material with a thickness of 18-20 mm is used. A plywood sheet with standard dimensions of 1220x2440 mm is cut into strips 400-600 mm wide.

The cut strips are attached to the base with dowels or screws. Most often, plywood strips are laid diagonally across the room.

Before laying the floor, the plywood base is carefully sanded with a belt machine. After that, all dust and dirt are carefully removed from the surface of the plywood, and the laying of the floorboard is started.

Installing a floorboard on an old plank floor

Only used if the old floor is strong enough. If not, it must be dismantled. To begin with, the old coating is carefully polished with a machine. A tape with a grain size of at least 40 is used. A moisture-proof polyethylene film is laid on the old coating (in case the old floor does not have the necessary moisture and heat insulation properties).

Before laying a floorboard on top of the old flooring, the flooring is made of plywood. The thickness of the flooring should not be less than 12 millimeters. The plywood coating is sanded, all dust and dirt is removed from the surface. The easiest way to do this is with a regular household vacuum cleaner, and then wipe the surface with a soft, slightly damp cloth.

Wood flooring

The floorboard is released from packaging, and kept indoors for at least a week to avoid deformation.

The board is attached with screws to the base. In order for the tongue of the next board to freely enter the groove, the self-tapping screw is drowned to a depth of several millimeters. To avoid cracking the board, it is better to drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill. If a moisture-proof film is not used during installation, you can fix the board with parquet glue. But most often this is not enough, and for a stronger grip, it is still recommended to use self-tapping screws.

To fit the boards as tightly as possible, wooden wedges are beaten along the perimeter of the room between the wall and the board. You should not be especially zealous in this case, the gap between the wall and the board should not exceed 10 millimeters.

Sanding a wooden floor

It is necessary that the floor surface before applying varnish or paint is even and smooth. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be sunk deep enough so that they do not interfere with the grinding process and do not damage the tape. For grinding, angle and surface grinders are used. An angle grinder is used to work in hard-to-reach places, a surface grinder is used to work on the main floor surface. When manually grinding, they work with a scraper or a wooden block wrapped in sandpaper.

Care of the wooden floor during operation

In order for the floor surface not to lose its “presentation” during operation, periodic maintenance is necessary, including regular dust removal and wet cleaning. The board is protected from scratches and deformations with varnish, grease or special impregnating solutions. Renovating a plank floor involves sanding and priming, followed by a coat of paint or varnish.

Varnish is considered one of the most reliable means of protecting the surface of wood. Today, manufacturers offer a fairly large variety of water-based varnishes with the addition of polyurethane and acrylate. Synthetic solvent varnishes are more suitable for beech or oak floors. The main disadvantages of any varnish are uneven distribution during application, toxicity and a pungent odor. In addition, any varnish coating is inevitably erased over time.

Step by step lacquer application

• The surface of the floor is carefully polished and cleaned of dust and debris.
• The prepared floor surface is treated with a decorative restoration mortar, which gives the board a fresh, attractive look.
• Apply a layer of primer. The coating must be completely absorbed and dry.
• The main layer of varnish is applied in several layers after the previous layer has completely dried.
• The last layer is applied after the elimination of bubbles and irregularities.

If the room is heavily used, the lacquered flooring will need to be updated periodically. In addition to varnishes, various oil solutions based on olive oil and natural resins are often used. In this case, to keep the floor in good condition, it is regularly impregnated with olive oil, which ensures the strength of the board to damage and resistance to moisture.

As you can see, laying a floorboard with your own hands is a simple matter, requiring only accuracy, precise adherence to technology and the use of simple tools.