We take care of the Ethiopian calla correctly. Ethiopian calla or zantedeschia (Zantedeschia aethiopica) - growing indoors Ethiopian calla care at home

Video about Ethiopian calla. How to fertilize Ethiopian calla, how to care for it at home. When calla has a dormant period and a flowering period. When you need to take calla outside, when and how to breed.

Ethiopian calla - video

We have been growing calla flowers for decades. AT this case- This is an Ethiopian calla with a white veil near the flower. When grown, callas prefer loose, moist soil. The composition of the soil must necessarily include either peat, or humus, or manure - here at the discretion of each gardener. We use both peat and humus so that the soil is necessarily moist, with a very high moisture transmission.

Calla Care includes loosening, watering, fertilizing and compliance temperature regime(ventilation of the room). In general, Ethiopian calla is a marsh plant, so it constantly requires high humidity both soil and air. That is why we keep the soil constantly moist - we provide abundant watering of calla lilies, abundant loosening of the soil and top dressing if necessary. Callas love various fertilizers, but more than others - potash and nitrogen. You can use superphosphate, potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate - these are the simplest and most affordable fertilizers.

For flowering callas a dormant period is urgently needed, without which callas simply may not bloom in the end. In traditional agricultural technology, this is summer period. In the month of June, the callas have a dormant period, then you need to reduce the watering of the callas. Water the plants 2-3 times a month; the leaves begin to die off, but it is necessary to continue watering in such a way that 1-2 leaves do not die off, which is necessary so that when the rest period is over, the plant comes to its senses as quickly as possible and begins to grow. It follows from this that the fewer leaves remain on the calla during the dormant period, the later the inflorescences begin to form, and the later the calla will bloom.

The calla can easily spend the rest period in the open field, i.e. on the summer time you can dig up the plant and transplant it into your garden, or just take the pot or tub out to fresh air.

If you grew calla at home, for a dormant period it is better to transfer it to the garden and plant it in open ground. But it will not bloom in the summer, because callas, as we have already said, have a dormant period at this time. And in August-September, the dormant period ends, the calla will need to be dug up, the baby will be separated, planted in a pot and taken into the room, i.e. bring back home.

This kind of vacation for callas is even more preferable - in the apartment she is more likely to catch a spider mite. By the way, you can fight the tick with standard insecticides and acaricides - actellik, for example.

Now calla division question- do not ignore the importance of this procedure, because otherwise the calla bloom may not occur. It is necessary to separate the children from the mother plant in the fall. We dig out the callas and separate the baby from her. If the plant has a lot of children, then the flower will not form and develop. We separate all the children, plant the calla in the ground (you don’t need to deepen it much, but the neck of the rhizome should not rise too much above the soil). If the plant is deeply buried in the substrate, then in this case, the calla inflorescences (formed in the leaf) may begin to rot. If you plant callas too high above the soil, then the root system may not have enough moisture, which leads to an increase in the formation of inflorescences and a deterioration in their development.

No wonder flower growers call calla a winter flower. In any case, the Ethiopian calla, which we have grown according to a method that has been tested for decades, blooms in winter and spring, and rests in summer. Of course, lovers really want to shift this natural schedule, and make callas bloom from June to August. It is possible that modern colored varieties and hybrids are adapted to such conditions.

In my collection decorative flowers there is very beautiful plant, and recently gave me a second one. A friend gave it away, said that she did not bloom in any way. And all the beauty is not even in the flower, but in the snow-white wide collar of the Ethiopian calla.

This flower can be successfully grown both in a pot at home and in the garden in the fresh air.

The plant is very popular with florists, as in cut form in flower arrangements and ordinary bouquets, not only is it an accent flower due to its shape and color, but it does not lose freshness for a long time, almost 2 weeks.

1. It's actually a perennial herbaceous plant has a completely different name - Ethiopian Zantedeschia. Aronik and Calla are also all about her. The flower belongs to the Aroid family and the genus Zantedeschia.
2. In southern Africa, which is the homeland, the plant grows wild in damp swampy places and its height often reaches two and a half meters. Of course, in culture, for a bouquet and at home, it is impossible to see calla above 1 meter.
3. The leaves of the plant are elongated and heart-shaped, their length is about half a meter, and their width is 18-20 cm. They are collected in a rosette. The color of the leaf plates is deep saturated, green, in perfect harmony with snow-white flowers. The structure of the leaves is expressed by thin, slightly recessed vertical veins. The stem is fleshy, thick and erect.
4. Above the rosette of leaves is placed a tall peduncle, at least 10 cm, which is strewn small flowers bright yellow color. From above, it is, as it were, wrapped in a snow-white veil - a petal elongated at the end. Its diameter can reach 20 - 25 cm.
5. Such an original structure makes the flower completely different from others. There are varieties in which the "collar" is not white, but yellow or pink, which looks very unusual and gentle.
6. The flowering period of callas lasts from late autumn to May. But if the conditions are very suitable for her, she can delight with flowers almost all year round.
7. Grown indoors, the flowers are almost odorless, but garden callas have a delicate aroma.

Main types

Both for growing in flowerbeds and at home, several of the most popular species are distinguished, differing not only in the structure and height of the bush itself, but also in the shade of the bedspread itself, which borders the peduncle. Let's consider some of them:

Zantedeschia Eliot

The view is different yellow sheets - bedspreads. The height and volume of the peduncle and leaves is slightly less than that of whites. In the summer, the plant begins a dormant period. The entire aerial part dies off, and the tuber is removed to a dark place.

This flower is characterized by small dense leaves, glossy, with small light patches. The flower itself is a bright lemon shade with a sharp top.

Zantedeschia Remanna

The shade of the flower varies from soft pink to rich raspberry, almost red.

• A distinctive feature of the species is the structure of the leaf: it is not swept, like in other species, but semi-straight, the corners are slightly bent, and small stains of a lighter tone are located along the entire plane of the leaf plate.
• Flowering begins from mid-July to early September. The core is shorter than that of other species, only 7 cm. The height of the shoot itself, together with the flower, is no more than half a meter.

These 2 species served as breeders for breeding colored callas. The color range is very rich: from almost black to purple tint to delicate pink, and then to red and orange tones. You can choose any shade depending on any design decision.

Main varieties

There are varieties that are most popular when grown at home.

green gods

The variety is very interesting for its colors: the core covered with a white color, and the edges are greenish to match the color of the leaves and stems. The peduncle is bright yellow.

white sail

The variety is very common in cultivation. Differs in a wide large snow-white sheet - a bedspread.

pink mist

This plant is distinguished by erect green leaves with a strong petiole and various shades bedspread: both very delicate tones and rich bright pinks.

Red Desire

These calla lilies have broad, erect green stems and thread-veined leaves, as well as a wide, white spathe-leaf with red cores.

Basic rules of care

This plant, grown quite often at home, is not particularly demanding. The flower is unpretentious, and it does not take much time and effort to bloom and grow.

What kind of lighting do you need

1. The length of daylight hours for callas is needed no less than 12 - 14 hours.
2. The flower loves light very much, so in winter time years, additional diffused lighting with special lamps is needed.
3. You should not determine the flowerpot in the south of the apartment, as direct sunlight can burn the leaf plates and calla inflorescence.
4. It is also necessary to find a calm and quiet place for the pot, because drafts are the enemy of calla lilies. She may stop blooming if she is uncomfortable.

Temperature regime and air humidification

• As in time rapid flowering, and during summer dormancy, the air temperature, which is most acceptable, should be within 18 - 20 degrees Celsius.
• When the growing season begins, the temperature can be slightly lowered, but no more than up to +16. If the room is cold, the plant may get sick. Do not forget that calla is an African beauty.
• The plant does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature, it may stop blooming.
• it tropical plant loves high humidity. Therefore, if it stands near heating appliances and batteries, then you should move it a little, and more often spray air from the spray gun.
• Broad leaves need to be wiped from time to time with a damp cloth from dust. So the plant will receive required amount moisture from the air.

Irrigation Features

When the plant is just entering the phase of active growth, then you need to water as the soil in the pot dries. Need regular and moderate watering.

When tying buds and flowering, the amount of watering should be slightly increased, but do not fill the flower. It is desirable that the soil is constantly moist, but not too wet. When flowering goes downhill, you need to moisten the soil again a little.

At rest, the plant almost always sheds foliage, and it is recommended to stop watering for 6 to 8 weeks. Do not be alarmed if the calla leaves fall off - this is normal for the dormant period of the flower.

Soil composition

Calla is not a particularly whimsical plant in terms of soil composition. It is quite possible to buy universal soils for indoor plants for this flower. ornamental plants with luxuriant blooms.

1. The main requirement is that the soil in the pot must be nutritious, and it also needs to conduct moisture and oxygen well to the root system.
2. Stagnation of water in the soil is undesirable. Some growers grow hydroponically calla lilies.
3. If you wish, you can prepare the soil mixture yourself: take in equal parts soddy soil, leafy soil, peat, fine river sand, and a little humus. Mix all ingredients well until smooth.

Fertilizer and top dressing

During the period of active growth and flowering, it must be fed at least once every 14 days. You can also choose a universal fertilizer for flowering indoor plants. But read the ingredients carefully. Limit fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, because the green mass - leaves and stems - will begin to actively develop.

For lush and beautiful flowering, calcium and phosphorus are needed. Therefore, it is necessary to feed the plant with these fertilizers before the flowering period.

How to transplant

• The flower has one difference: it needs to be transplanted annually.
• In the second half of July and until mid-August, when the dormant period begins, the plant must be pulled out of the pot, the root system cleaned, and all dry leaves removed.
• You can transplant again into the same flowerpot. It is important that the root neck is at ground level.
• Depending on the size of the root system, the pot can be chosen only a few centimeters larger. It is not recommended to plant callas in a pot that is too spacious.

reproduction

This procedure is carried out by the method of separation of the root processes. They must be carefully laid out for pre-drying. You should choose healthy and strong roots. It is recommended to do this when you transplant the plant.

Then the parts of the plant dried for several days should be planted in separate small pots. The soil should be moist, and the soil can be taken universal.

Conclusion

• Ethiopian calla can become a decoration of any home, become a wonderful addition to the flower collection of both a beginner in plant growing and an experienced grower.
• In order for the plant to please with flowers, one should not make the main mistake - watering during the dormant period of the plant. During flowering and active growth, fertilize the flower according to the schedule.
• Pests and diseases do not particularly attack callas. If it appears spider mite then you need to wipe the leaves with soapy water and follow the rules of care.

Today we will talk about the popular flowering plant which came to us from South Africa. It will be about the nuances of cultivation at home and the wintering of Ethiopian calla lilies. If you call this plant universal, you will be right one hundred percent. They decorate homes, include in bouquets. This is an excellent greenhouse plant.

Content:

A few features of the Ethiopian calla:

1. Big sizes.
2. Broad juicy, glossy leaves.
3. Heart-shaped bright green leaves.
4. The original structure of the flower is an inflorescence-cob on the arrow.
5. The beginning of flowering is the second half of the winter period.
6. The plant pleases the eye with magnificent flowers for one and a half to two months.

So, let's move on to the main questions.

A few words about calla varieties

There are varieties of calla lilies in which flowers (more precisely, a flower bedspread) do not white color, and colored. However, they do not come from Ethiopian calla, but often from flowering yellow flowers callas Elliot and callas Reman, which at first pink flowers later become purplish-violet.

These species do not have roots, like Ethiopian callas, but tubers. They are planted in February. Plants develop relatively quickly and after 60 days already bloom. Recently, the tubers of these unusual callas can be bought in specialized stores.

Usually these varieties bloom during the summer. In autumn, calla lilies fade, their tubers are taken out of the ground, dried and stored for two or two and a half months at a temperature of 12-15 degrees, then planted in the ground again.

And you knew! Ethiopian calla used to have the botanical name "Calla"? Later this name changed, and this plant genus was named after the physicist F. Zantedeschia (1773-1846) - "Zantedeschia". There was a time when this plant was called "ricardia".

Cultivation at home

Experienced flower growers attribute the plant we are considering to unpretentious inhabitants of window sills.

Lighting

The plant develops well, grows in bright ambient light. In winter, you can not do without supplementary lighting with phytolamps, since the minimum duration of lighting is 12 hours.

The correct decision would be the "registration" of the plant on the windowsill of a window facing east, west. A plant on a south window will require protection from the direct rays of the sun, which are detrimental to it.

Temperature regime

The dormant period of the Ethiopian calla is summer, flowering is winter. Medium optimum temperature during these periods is equal to 19 degrees.

Watering

An actively growing plant requires moderate watering. It is necessary to avoid drying out of an earthen coma. More abundant watering is necessary for blooming flower. Callas that have faded require less water.

Watering the plant is allowed with soft, well-settled 20-degree water.

Air humidity

We are talking about a high humidity lover who needs to be sprayed every day. Periodic warm showers are also recommended.

Place an open container of water near the plant. True, it is better to use a pallet with wet expanded clay.

Soil features

With soil, everything is simple. The plant feels great in a neutral universal soil for indoor plants. In order to save money, you can prepare your own soil mixture, consisting of rotted turf, foliage, peat, earth, sand. Everything is taken in equal parts.

Some growers grow the plant hydroponically.

Fertilizer

An actively growing plant is fed every 14 days. Prioritize a liquid fertilizer with the least amount of nitrogen, which is negatively associated with flowering. The more phosphorus, the more abundant flowering.

Wintering conditions

Ethiopian calla is a plant with pronounced growth cycles. It usually starts blooming when favorable conditions just before Christmas. The flowers then last until summer.

Then begins a period of rest, which is indicated yellow leaves. Now watering is limited and then suspended completely. Now the plant pot can be moved to a protected place on the balcony or in the garden. The earth can even dry out completely. Usually there is enough natural rainfall to keep the tuber in the substrate from completely drying out. On the balcony from time to time you need to lightly water the plant.

After a dormant period, after about 4-6 weeks, the knobby tuber is removed from the pot, the earth is shaken off and planted in fresh soil. A heavy mixture is suitable for planting. If ordinary flower land, you can mix with it not a large number of compost or clay. Mixed soil is also suitable. At first, the tuber is kept moderately moist. However, as soon as shoots begin to appear, the plant is watered more abundantly and fertilized from time to time. The plant needs a relatively large amount of nutrients.

If the calla is still under autumn open sky, before the start of frost, it is rearranged into the room and kept at a temperature of 9 degrees. Later, the temperature can be increased to 14 degrees. It is very important at this time that the plant is in a bright place. Calla tolerates small portions of the sun well. Under favorable conditions, calla lilies begin to bloom again by the end of winter or spring.

From the Aroid family, it amazes with the huge size of dense arrow-shaped leaves and the monumentality of a long peduncle crowned with a yellow cob inflorescence wrapped with a funnel-shaped bract-bedspread - snow-white, yellow or pink. As an encrypted conspirator, calla (Calla) has several more names - and calla, and Richardia (Richardia), and zantedeschia (Zantedeschia). In nature, calla grows in the marshy places of South Africa. This is a perennial herbaceous plant with a fleshy tuberous rhizome, about 80 cm high; basal leaves on a high grooved petiole reach 40 cm in length and 25 cm in width. There are many varieties of callas, in which the length of the peduncles ranges from 40 cm to 1.5 m - therefore, there are high, medium and low forms of callas.

Calla is characterized by unpretentiousness and high ecological plasticity - it grows and blooms with significant fluctuations in light, humidity and temperature. The location in the house for callas is chosen from sunny to semi-shaded: in summer it is better in partial shade, and in autumn - closer to the window. For the summer, calla lilies can be taken out to the garden, to a protected place. In late October - early November, the first flower stalks appear at calla lilies and flowering continues until May, in June-July, a dormant period. To simulate natural conditions calla growth in nature, watering is reduced for the dormant period - watered once every 10 days. At the end of the dormant period, you need to remove a clod of earth from the pot, clean the calla from old leaves and soil, separate the offspring and sleeping buds (baby with a diameter of 0.5-1.5 cm) for reproduction. After that, the calla is planted in the same pot in fresh soil (a mixture of soddy, leafy, humus, trophic soil and sand in equal proportions), placing the rhizome shallow.

Calla care at home

Temperature:

Room temperature is optimal for normal plant growth. In summer, you can take the calla outside, protecting the plant from the scorching sun.

Lighting:

calla very photophilous plant, so the pot with calla is placed in a dry, well-lit place.

Humidity:

Humidity is quite important criterion. At room temperature over 20 degrees, calla needs to be sprayed.

Watering:

Proper watering is an important condition for good growth and development, so they need to be watered regularly and often. In order for the flower to grow well, it must be regularly watered and fertilized at least once a month.

The soil:

The calla flower feels good in slightly acidic soil, which you can cook at home on your own. To do this, you need hardwood soil, peat and some sand. Transplantation of adult flowers is recommended in late autumn, in November.

Bloom:

If you want to achieve year-round flowering, then the number of dressings must be increased. However, you need to make sure that the flower does not get too much. For example, a large amount of nitrogen in the soil negatively affects the leaves - they turn black at the edges. When flowering ends, the covers of flowers turn green and droop, the leaves turn yellow and gradually dry out.

Reproduction:

Ethiopian calla reproduces by offspring and division of the rhizome. The offspring are separated from the mother plant and planted in pots. Water, spray and feed until buds appear with nitrogenous fertilizers, during flowering - fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.

When dividing the rhizome, a kidney must be present on each separated part. The cuts are treated with charcoal and each is planted in its own pot. Watering until sprouts appear is not necessary. After the appearance of sprouts, care is no different from caring for an adult plant.

"Colored" callas are propagated by tubers that are simply separated from the mother plant. If the tubers do not separate easily, then you do not need to touch them. These tubers are not yet ready for independent life. They are best left on the mother plant until they are old enough.

Complexity:

In the end, caring for calla lilies is not so difficult. It should be borne in mind that care for different types calla is different. For example, white callas require more moisture, and their growth does not slow down during dormancy and lack of flowering.

Zantedeschia or Calla belongs to the Aroid family. It is native to the humid regions of Africa and South America. The genus is named after a friend of the scientist who discovered it.

These plants are grown in gardens and in room conditions, a beautiful flowers callas are actually a leaf that will grow around a flower.

Calla varieties

The genus includes only 8 species, and only 3 are cultivated.

This is a white zantedeschia, expelling very tall stems with flowers. Unlike other species, it has a root, not a bulb.

this is a relatively low calla (about 65 cm), which has a pink "flower". root system represented by a tuber. In autumn, leaves fall from the flower and a period of calm sets in.

Also not a very tall view, reaching half a meter in height. This calla has both a flower and a blanket around it of a bright yellow color.

It is a mixture of plants of a certain variety, the flowers of which will have a different color.

Calla planting and care in the open field

This flower needs some comfort, so you need to learn how to care for zantedescia before planting.

For growing in the garden, calla lilies are planted in May. Before planting, the roots or tubers should be inspected and, if necessary, cleaned of rotten places, and smeared with brilliant green, they should also be dipped for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate.

The site for planting should be well dug up and fertilized with mineral fertilizer, the amount of fertilizer is about 30 grams per 1 m 2. Next, planting is carried out to a depth of no more than 10 cm, the distance between the bulbs is around 40 cm. The next 15 days do not need to be watered, the plants will have enough moisture after planting. Shoots, most likely, will not be fast - from two weeks to a month.

Watering adult plants should be moderate, but constant. Fertilizers other than those applied before planting are not required. In case of insufficiently acidic soil, watering with diluted vinegar or citric acid can be carried out.

The plant should be planted in a free, open area, but it is better that trees are planted nearby that can cover the calla during the hot hours of the day.

Zantedeschia care at home

At room conditions, caring for homemade zantedeschia is also not particularly difficult.

The flower is not very picky about temperature or humidity. The temperature of cultivation in summer should be around 23 degrees. In winter, you can allow a decrease to 15 degrees, but not lower. Zantedeschia does not like drafts, and it must also be protected from direct sun rays, but, nevertheless, you need to place it in a bright place.

In winter, if the calla is about to bloom, it needs to be provided with additional illumination, so that the daylight hours are 10 hours. Watering should be carried out carefully so as not to get water on the tuber, and in the interval between waterings, the earth should dry out.

Fertilizer is carried out every fifth watering. For this you need to use liquid balanced top dressing. The substrate for planting requires acidic, about 6 ph, you can add sphagnum or peat to the soil.

To distill the plant, you need to take a tuber with a diameter of at least 5 cm and plant it in a pot with a diameter of 25 cm. The planting depth is 5 cm. The soil, after the tuber falls asleep, must be watered with a diluted fungicide.

Care after flowering for calla lilies with roots and calla lilies with tubers are different. Ethiopian zantedeschia, which has a rhizome, passes into a period of calm in the heat, its growth becomes slow, the leaves turn yellow. Watering during this period should be limited, and the flower should be placed outdoors, where there will be a lot of sun, but there will be no rain. In early July, the zantedescia is cleaned of dead leaves and offspring, and then transplanted, fertilizer and watering begin.

How to store callas in winter

If your zantedeschia grows in the garden, then in September its roots will need to be dug up and kept together with a clod of soil in a dry, cool room, sometimes watered a little. Zantedeschia with a tuberous rhizome begins to turn yellow and dry after flowering.

In the garden, such a calla is kept until the last week of September, and then carefully dug up, the tubers are washed and dried. For two weeks, the plants are kept at a temperature of about 8 degrees, during which time the roots absorb useful material from stem and leaves. The dead top of the flower is then removed.

Tubers before storage, you need to soak for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate, rinse and dry again. Storage should be carried out at a temperature of 6 degrees. Do not put the bulbs in plastic bags as they need to breathe.

If it is not possible to store the root calla as a tuber, then the roots are slightly dried and stored as bulbs. When growing zantedescia in a pot, you can not take it out for the winter, but watering must be stopped.

Diseases and pests

• Among the diseases of zantedeschia, the flower most often affects rot.
• Gray rot most often appears from the soil or diseased neighboring flowers, and bulbs can also be diseased.
• To destroy brown rot, you need to stop watering the calla and reduce the temperature, damp upper layer it is advisable to remove the soil and replace it with dry.
• Aphids may also be affected, in which case you can simply wash the flower with soap or use special preparations.
• If your Zantedeschia is not blooming, then the cause may be watering during the dormant period, or you just have a young plant and need to wait a year or two. Also, flowering is absent with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.