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Gloxinia, or, more correctly, synningia, is a perennial plant that requires a mandatory dormant period at the end of the growing season. Flowers usually go to rest in September - October, which coincides with the onset of the dry season in their homeland, South America. If gloxinia does not want to fall asleep on time, it is better to help it in this so that the flowering time is not violated at the most favorable time for this, that is, in the spring-summer months, when the plant, which is very sensitive to the amount of light, receives it in sufficient quantities.
To put gloxinia to bed on time, it is necessary from the beginning of autumn, as soon as flowering ends, gradually reduce watering, and daylight hours will become shorter by itself. When the aboveground part is completely dry and gives the tuber all the maximum nutrients, it must be removed, leaving only 1–1.5 cm above the soil surface. The tubers themselves must be thoroughly cleaned of soil and treated with a fungicide solution. Then we place them in a dry, dark and cool place with good ventilation, after sprinkling them with sawdust or vermiculite. The optimum storage temperature for gloxinia is in the range from +8 to + 12 ... 15 ° C, depending on the amount of moisture in the environment. During storage, the tubers should be periodically sprayed and checked if they woke up.
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If you do everything correctly, then your gloxinia will not start waking up earlier than in January - February. True, it sometimes happens that if any storage conditions are violated, the tubers wake up earlier than the set time or do not want to fall asleep at all. What to do in this case? Much depends on the age of the plant and the size of the tubers.
If your gloxinia is still a first year, then worry that she does not fall asleep is not worth it. This is normal for young flowers with small (up to 2 cm in diameter) tubers. It's just that in the winter period she will have to pay more attention, completing the lighting up to the required 12-14 hours. But the flower will grow and grow a good tuber over the winter. But plants with large tubers (more than 2 cm) should still be sent to rest.
If a flower stands on a windowsill in winter without additional lighting, then it is highly likely that it will stretch out a lot. To prevent this from happening, you must either try to reduce the temperature to +18 ° C, or at the end of February, cut off the already grown stem, leaving only the lower foliage.
When adult gloxinia wakes up ahead of time, that is, without resting for two, but rather three months, then there may be several scenarios for its further existence:
- Remove the emerging shoots and remove the tuber again to where it rested before. In the spring, with an increase in the period of natural light, plant it in a container with a new substrate and place in a warm and bright place.
- If the sprouts that appear are still very small, then it will be enough not to remove them, but simply to further limit the amount of moisture received.
- You can, by planting gloxinia in fresh soil, illuminate it with lamps, but then you risk eventually getting a very thinning weak plant, since the flower does not relate very well to artificial light. If this happens, it is required to remove the top of the stem at the end of February, leaving only the lower foliage. The cut tops take root, and the gloxinia will grow new shoots and only become more luxuriant.
- The fourth option involves growing gloxinia in cooler (+ 18 ° C) conditions with sufficiently good natural light, when the growth of the flower will not be so intense.
(family Gesneriaceae) needs a rest period. Received the greatest distribution gloxinia hybrid (Gloxinia hibrida). These tuberous plants need a dormant period in winter. It lasts up to several months. Adult plants are provided with complete rest, young ones can be less strict. Preparation for wintering begins in late September - early October. The plant usually adheres to its own sleep and rest schedule. Gradually, its leaves turn yellow, and then dry, after which they are painlessly cut off. Some gloxinia continue to bloom even in autumn, so preparation for the dormant period is very important for them.
Blooming gloxinia
During the dormant period, it is necessary not only to keep the tuber healthy, but also to protect gloxinia from premature awakening and the growth of frail shoots. The ideal time for the release of gloxinia from a dormant state is February. For young plants, it is considered normal to wake up from the end of January.
Wintering of adult gloxinia
In autumn, the flowering of adult gloxinia becomes weaker, after which it stops. This indicates the correct order in which gloxinia enter a state of temporary rest. In order not to interfere with them, the plants are not fed and gradually reduce watering. It is very important that gloxinia has enough time to prepare for sleep. The gloxinia pot is transferred to a less lighted windowsill. These measures lead to the fact that the plant easily passes into a dormant state. Leaves that need to be cut off are dying off. Some amateur flower growers leave stumps up to 3 cm high.
The best wintering option for Gloxinia is a cool place with an air temperature of about plus 10 - 13 ° C. It is desirable that it be semi-dark. Watering is rare (1 - 2 times a month), gentle. It is only needed so that dehydrated tubers do not shrivel in dry soil. The worst option is complete drying of tubers that cannot be reanimated. When watering (preferably in the edge of the pot), try not to soak the tuber itself. Use water at room temperature or slightly lukewarm temperature.
There is another way to preserve gloxinia tubers in the winter. To do this, "shaggy" tubers are taken out of the pot and placed in sand, peat or sphagnum moss until the end of winter. Once a month, the substrate is sprayed with warm water. Air temperature - plus 10 - 13 ° С.
It is worth saying that some experienced amateur growers use a "rolling" dormant schedule. But these are already the author's methods, thanks to which certain goals are solved.
The resting period of young gloxinia
Gloxinia is a first year, which has not yet bloomed and has not grown a real tuber (up to 2 cm), hibernates without a dormant period. To do this, it is important to provide it with normal lighting for at least 12 hours a day. The air temperature is about plus 18 - 19 ° С. Under such conditions, gloxinia will not stretch and, during the growing season, will actively grow the tuber.
Young plants that have already tried to bloom and have managed to grow small tubers winter differently. In order to prepare them for the necessary rest, in the fall they are watered moderately and the pot with them is rearranged to a less bright place. For example, on the sill of the north or north-east window. During wintering, gloxinia fall into a half-asleep state. As soon as there is more sunlight and the daylight hours are lengthened, the pots with rested young plants are moved to the lightest window sill (for example, the south or southwest window). The time of "moving" is chosen according to the weather. More often it is the end of January - February.
Pot with wintering gloxinia
Gloxinia awakening after a dormant period
From the end of January, you can expect the appearance of new sprouts of gloxinia. It is advisable to transplant the awakened tuber into a pot with fresh soil mixture to such a depth that it is slightly visible above the ground or is level with it. For the first week after transplanting gloxinia, I do not water it. This is an additional guarantee against decay. After a while, watering becomes moderate. Its frequency is determined by the specific conditions in which the plant pot is located. The place is always bright. In order for the gloxinia to wake up and begin their growth, watering is intensified, but does not allow waterlogging of the soil. The flowering of plants begins in May and lasts until autumn.
In winter (in February), shoot growth should not be stimulated so as not to deplete gloxinia. From the moment of growth, excess shoots are boldly removed. During this period, only three to four shoots are enough for the gloxinia to gain strength without depleting the tuber. The larger and more complete the tuber, the more magnificent the flowering of the plant will be.
If there is a desire to propagate a specific variety, then the extra shoots are broken out when they grow up to 5 cm in height. They are rooted in any suitable container using a glass jar, plastic bag (+ frame) or a "glass" made from a transparent plastic bottle. They cover the cuttings from above. I find the top of a plastic bottle to be the best cap option. I make several holes in its lid with a hot nail, which protects from the inevitable condensation. Airing and tempering the cuttings is very simple: just screw and remove the lid.
Flowering (weak) of some young cuttings gloxinia can be expected this year. Many first-year gloxinia (especially those grown from seeds) find themselves without a tuber or with a tiny nodule (up to 2 cm). In winter, their shoots stretch out, as they do not have enough light. And too warm air promotes growth. This is a serious problem faced by those amateur growers who grow young gloxinias in the dark during the fall and winter.
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The resting period of gloxinia.
In autumn, after flowering, gloxinia begins a dormant period. The plant slows down growth, does not grow buds, the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out. Leaves of such a plant are cut off and removed for winter storage. The optimal time for pruning gloxinia and sending the tuber for winter storage is October-November.
Sometimes it happens that gloxinia do not want to go into hibernation themselves. If the tuber is more than a year old, then gloxinia still needs to be put to bed.
Such gloxinia must first be prepared for a dormant period, i.e. reduce watering, rearrange to a darker and cooler place, stop feeding. After the plant stops growing, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the stems and leaves are cut off.
Gloxinia tubers are stored in a dark, cool place at a temperature of 12-16 degrees Celsius. I have gloxinia stored in a closed cabinet on an insulated loggia. Some growers store tubers in the refrigerator, having previously measured the air temperature on the refrigerator shelf.
Storage methods for tubers:
1. The plant can be left in the same pot in which the gloxinia grew. The soil in which the gloxinia is stored should be slightly damp, but not wet. With this method of storage, gloxinia must be watered, slightly moistening the soil, about a spoonful of water. Watering is carried out 1-2 times a month, making sure that the soil does not dry out and the tuber does not dry out. You can make it easier: place the pot with the tuber in a sealed bag and tie it tightly. With this method, the need for watering gloxinia disappears and the possibility of drying out the soil is excluded. Once a month, it is necessary to check the moisture content of the soil and the condition of the tuber.
2. In a plastic container.
Currently, in the pavilions with disposable tableware, various plastic containers with a lid are sold. It is convenient to store small gloxinia tubers in such containers. Pour a small amount of wet soil on the bottom of the container, place the tuber, sprinkle it with earth. Close the container tightly with a lid to avoid overdrying the soil. Such containers allow you to save space during storage, eliminating the possibility of drying out the soil. 
Gloxinia awakening.
The resting period of gloxinia lasts from one to five months. After that, the tubers wake up and release new shoots. The optimal time for awakening is February, March, April. If the gloxinia tuber has not woken up by May, it can be forcibly awakened. To do this, the gloxinia tuber must be placed in a transparent bag, add a little moist soil, and put in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight. After that, the tuber usually sprouts within one to two weeks.
After waking up, you need to get the tuber from the old soil, shake it off, rinse in water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate, cut off the old thin roots, while leaving thick roots.
Awakened gloxinia needs to be transplanted into fresh nutritious light soil, lightly watered. When planting, the tuber of gloxinia must not be buried; the tuber must be planted deepening upward, sprinkling the tuber itself with soil no more than 1 cm.At the same time, care must be taken that the young sprout is not covered.
The first time after waking up, the plant should be watered sparingly, without overmoistening the soil in order to avoid rotting of the tuber.
It often happens that gloxinia releases several shoots. I always leave alone, the strongest. The rest of the shoots can be carefully removed by cutting off with a razor blade. Leaving one sprout on the tuber, you get a neater bush, and the flowers are larger.
If you want a more lush plant, then you can leave two shoots.
Cut off "extra" shoots can be easily rooted by placing them in water until the roots appear 1-2 cm, and then planting them in the soil. Thus, you can get another plant that blooms in the same year. It should be borne in mind that slightly grown sprouts, on which there will be 4 leaves, are suitable for rooting.
Pot size for gloxinia tuber.
The gloxinia pot must be selected in such a way that the diameter of the pot is 3-4 centimeters larger than the diameter of the tuber.
For example, a very small tuber, about one to two centimeters in size, I plant in a 100-gram plastic cup, a medium tuber in a pot 7 cm in diameter, adult tubers feel good in 9-centimeter pots.
As small nodules grow and the root system develops, gloxinia will need to be transplanted into a larger pot.
If you plant a small nodule immediately in a large-diameter pot, then there is a possibility of acidification of the soil and rotting of the tuber.
Attention: Winter for adult indoor gloxinia is a period of rest. A plant that has bloomed at least once and managed to grow tubers enters a state of dormancy. The larger the tuber, the better it is stored. A young specimen of the first year of life may not fall asleep for the winter.
When to retire? This should not be done forcibly. Such gloxinia has a small tuber less than two centimeters in diameter, which, under wintering conditions without watering, can dry out and die. A young plant needs special care in the winter season:
- Provide the correct temperature... Indicators should not rise above + 20 ° C. If the room is too hot, the stem will stretch to the detriment of tuber growth.
- Watering less frequently than during the summer season(read how to properly water and feed gloxinia for long flowering). Otherwise, waterlogging will lead to root rot.
- Organize the backlight... Daylight hours should last at least 12 hours a day. In the absence of additional lighting, the flower is strongly stretched. To prevent this, the room temperature is reduced to + 18 ° C. Or at the end of February, a long stem is cut, leaving only the lower leaves.
Rest period
When to clean gloxinia for the winter, for rest? Usually in September-October, the plant goes into a midnight state when it begins with the dry season in their homeland, South America.
In the case when the plant has faded and does not want to fall asleep, it needs help. If gloxinia does not go to rest on time, the flowering time, which should fall on the spring and summer months, will shift.
To prevent this from happening, at the beginning of autumn, they begin to prepare faded gloxinia for wintering. With late flowering, wait until it ends. After complete self-extinction of the aerial part, the tuber is ready for storage. If everything is done correctly, gloxinia will begin to wake up no earlier than January - February..
Detailed description
- In September-October, after flowering, place the gloxinia in a less illuminated place, for example, on the northern windowsill. Provide a temperature of + 15 ° C. Feed once with potash fertilizer. Reduce watering gradually. Moisten the soil with small portions of water no more than once a week.
- When the leaves begin to dry, stop moisturizing the substrate. You cannot immediately cut off the aerial part of the plant. Allow the nutrients to gradually transfer into the tuber from the stem and leaves. If green foliage is cut off, vegetation processes may resume.
- After complete self-extinction of the upper part, cut it off, leaving a small stump with a height of one to one and a half centimeters.
Storage methods and conditions
When the preparation is completed, you need to send the tuber for the winter. Storage methods:
- Leave the tuber in the pot... You can sprinkle with river sand. Cover the flowerpot with a saucer, place it in polyethylene and put it in a cool place with a temperature of +10 to + 15 ° C. Make sure that the tuber does not dry out completely. Moisten the soil slightly by spraying several times during the winter.
- Two weeks after the complete withering away of the aerial part, dig out the tuber... Remove the remnants of the roots. You can rinse it in water, dry it and treat it with Fitosporin. Take a plastic bag with a fastener, pour slightly damp sawdust or river sand or crushed peat into it. Or take a mixture of the substrate with vermiculite. Rinse the sand and hold it in a hot oven.
- Place the tuber in the bag... Store in a box in a cool place at temperatures between + 10 ° C and + 15 ° C. The middle or bottom shelf of the refrigerator door will work. Remove and inspect the tuber monthly. If the substrate is dry, spray it with warm water and replace the tuber. Avoid excessive moisture.
In the case when the grower has several gloxinias, make labels indicating the variety and the date of sending for wintering.
Important: If the tuber is bought in the fall, it is disinfected with a special agent and stored without a substrate.
As a result of violation of storage conditions, tubers may wake up ahead of schedule. without even two months' rest. With this development of events, it is recommended to choose one of the following options:
Useful video
Conclusion
For the normal functioning of gloxinia, full and timely rest is required. After the preparatory measures, the tuber is sent for wintering. By the beginning of spring, rested gloxinia will again be full of strength in order to reveal its charming flowers.
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The plant is thermophilic and grows well when the air humidity is at least 50%. This is a tuberous type belonging to the Gesneriaceae. The second name is synningia. It came to us from the tropics. Gloxinia lived in the mountainous regions of the Amazon River, in its upper part. There, periods of heavy rains turn into winter drought with a decrease in temperature, and the flower is used to hiding and waiting until the downpours feeding the soil come again. Therefore, gloxinia refers to flowers that require a dormant period.
Interestingly, in the past, amateur flower growers often believed that by shedding leaves and withering, gloxinia so passed away and was simply thrown away. It is necessary to take care of it in resonance with its biorhythms, otherwise the plant will be depleted, it will waste its life potential in an irregular way, it will not have time to gain enough strength for the upcoming flowering, and it may even die.
At home, it grows well in the kitchen and on the insulated loggia. because the humidity is higher there. conducted, leafy and from the tops, as well as tubers (read how to grow gloxinia from a leaf).
On a note. Gloxinia itself "knows" when it needs to rest, at this time the foliage begins to turn yellow.
Usually the plant is prepared for bed from September-October. Little by little, watering is reduced to nothing, and the dried leaves are carefully cut off, and the pots are moved to more shaded places. The flower's dream is quite long, it takes more than one month.
How and when does it happen?
In autumn, the flowering of adult sinningia is no longer so active and gradually stops altogether. In order not to disrupt the natural process, gloxinia cease to feed, and watering is minimized. Enough time should pass to. You can cut off the drying leaves at the very root, or you can leave arrows 2-3 cm each.Ideal for the winter is a semi-dark zone with temperatures from + 10 ° C to + 13 ° C.
During sleep, gloxinia are very sparsely watered, once or twice a month. Pour water strictly along the edge of the pots so as not to wet the surface of the tuber. When watering, take lukewarm water.
The second option for hibernation is storing tubers in a sandy-type substrate, or in peat, or in sphagnum moss. The tubers are removed from the pot and dropped into the selected substrate, keeping there until the end of the winter period. Every month, one sprinkle of warm water is made on the coma in which the tuber is stored.
The temperature is needed the same as in the first option, 10-13 degrees. More experienced flower growers-artisans, knowing the nature and habits of the plant, having studied them subtly, are guided by other indicators using a labile rest time schedule, where in each case the period is calculated individually.
Young plants
How to get it?
The method that will be optimally applied depends on which storage option is chosen - in the ground or without it.
Reference. Regular monitoring of moisture levels and rot is required. If rot appears, we carry out cleansing, process with potassium permanganate.
After cleansing, sprinkle the sore spot, eaten away by the fungus, with ash. If the tuber is purchased in the fall, then during storage you need to use a soilless method, disinfecting both before hibernation and after it (you can learn more about gloxinia diseases and how to treat them).
In the soil
This is a simpler and more reliable option, the danger of rotting is minimal. Preparing for bed follows the same scenario. You can find out how to choose the best soil for gloxinia.
- Move the pot with the tuber to a cool and shady place.
- We periodically slightly moisten the upper part of the soil.
- You can put ice cubes to lower the temperature.
You can also cover the pot with a bag and keep it cool. Do not forget to check for moisture and make sure that the tuber does not sprout. To "control" the temperature, you can put the pot in a box and put a thermometer in it. The same applies to soilless storage. Tubers should be checked twice a month.
The rest period lasts four to five months. By the end of January, you can expect awakening in the form of the first shoots. When this happens, you should return the plant to the pot with fresh soil and put it in the brightest place (we wrote about the size of the pot needed for the healthy development of gloxinia). They deepen quite a bit. The sprout should rise slightly above the layer of earth, or be on a par with it. In the first seven days, watering is not done, then they start with moderate doses of moisture, gradually bringing them to normal.
Growth stimulation is not done until February, so that the tuber does not waste strength, because the more it is, the more abundant the flowering will be. Excess shoots are removed, leaving three to four pieces when they reach five centimeters in length.
You can use them for breeding, rooting in a jar, like a small greenhouse, periodically hardening and airing.
Attention! If it turned out that the tuber at the end of hibernation was struck by rot, then you need to disinfect it using the above method.
Can also be placed in root root for nourishment.
Useful video
The resting period in gloxinia. Storing gloxinia tubers in a dormant state in winter:
Conclusion
Advantages and disadvantages of soil and soilless methods:
- the risk of drying out during soil storage is minimal, this is especially important for young plants;
- storage in pots takes up a lot of space;
- with soilless storage in bags, you can control for rot;
- the soilless method makes it possible to winter in the refrigerator.
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