Calla: Growing cut calla. Distillation of flowering perennials in room conditions calla, gerbera, freesia

By March 8, many are professionally forcing tulips - you must have heard of such a business. Indeed, if you plant bulbs of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths in pots for 6-10 weeks and keep them cool and dark place, they will grow faster than their counterparts in open ground. So you can guess the distillation at home by February 14, March 8 and Easter. This is your personal spring, which came long before the deadline.

Materials:

• Bulbs of hyacinths, daffodils and other early flowering plants from the garden center (or harvested in the fall on your site)
• Containers - anything will do, from enamel bowls to jam jars or small galvanized buckets
• Universal soil or soil for bulbs
• Fine gravel or broken clay pot pieces
• Black trash bag, burlap, or old cloth
• Twigs and twine to tie up the stems
• You will also need a dark, cool place to place your bulb containers.

Crocus, hyacinth, daffodil (e.g. miniature varieties like Tete-a-Tete, and taller early flowering varieties like Paperwhite), miniature iris (e.g. Iris reticulata), mouse hyacinth (Muscari), Siberian blueberry (Scilla siberica).

snowdrops it is also possible to kick out early using this method. But it is better to mark a place in your garden where groups of snowdrops have already taken root and transplant a few into a container in the fall than to plant purchased snowdrops, because the latter can take several years to take root and grow.

Choosing a container for bulbs

Jam jars are well suited for forcing. Glass allows you to see the roots, and this will help to tell how plants grow and how they absorb water. Clay pots always look great, especially old ones. If you are planning a forcing by March 8, as a gift, it is better for the container to be new and attractive.

Plain white enameled bowls, dishes, or cups are also fine, but like jars, they don't have drainage holes. To prevent the accumulation of water at the bottom of such containers, put a handful of fine gravel or a few pieces of a broken clay pot on the bottom and try using special mineral fibers for bulbs instead of compost. The fibers perfectly absorb moisture and will not allow the developing bulbs to rot.

1. Place a layer of compost or mineral fiber for bulbs in the bottom of the container (a layer of gravel or broken pot shards if you use them). The layer thickness is 4 cm for larger bulbs (daffodils and hyacinths), and 2–3 cm for smaller bulbs (snowdrops, crocuses or scylla).
2. Place the bulbs on a layer of soil. You can space them fairly close together to form a dense carpet of flowers, but try to make sure they don't touch each other as this can cause them to rot.

1. From above, cover the bulbs with compost or mineral fiber for bulbs so that only their tops protrude slightly above the soil surface. When the shoots appear, it can be difficult to distinguish one variety from another, so mark them immediately after planting.
2. Place the containers on a plastic or metal tray, or individual trays, and water them until the soil is moist but not wet.
3. Place containers with bulbs in a cool (+8-9°C) but dry place. Cover the pots with a large black trash bag (do not wrap it), rough canvas, or two to three layers of cloth so that the bulbs are out of light.

1. Check the bulbs about every week. If the compost or planting fiber is dry, water it a little. When the shoots grow 3-5 cm, you can rearrange the containers on a bright, cold windowsill. Most bulbs need to spend about 8-10 weeks in a dark, dry place. Daffodils will grow faster, they may only need 5-7 weeks.
2. After removing the covering material from the bulbs, do not immediately put them in a place that is too warm or brightly lit so that they can get used to the new conditions. To develop further, shoots during this period will need 6-8 hours of daylight.
3. The bulbs will now grow fairly quickly and the shoots may stretch too far. So tie up the shoots with twigs and twine, or gently wrap the twine around the cluster of leaves two or three times and tie the shoots together to provide support.

If forcing bulbs is too difficult or too time consuming for you, there are other ways to decorate your home with spring flowers. If you bring home cut branches fruit trees, the heat will make the flower buds on them bloom earlier.

Materials:

• Secateurs or strong scissors
• Branches or stems with flower buds cut from any variety of cherry, plum or apple tree
• Newspaper (optional)
• Bath half-filled with warm water (optional)
• Vases and jars in which you will put flowering branches

1. It will be great if you notice a flowering plant near your house in spring or autumn, because in winter it can be difficult to determine what is in front of you from bare branches.
2. Use secateurs to cut a few branches from trees or shrubs.
3. You can simply put the collected twigs in water and leave in a warm, well-lit place. Depending on what stage of development they were in when you cut them, the buds will begin to open within one to two weeks.
4. To speed up the process even more, fill the tub halfway with warm water, wrap the twigs in newspaper, and place them in the tub. Leave the branches in warm water for 20-30 minutes, then remove from the water and remove the newspaper. Lightly tap the cut ends of the branches with a large pebble, small hammer, or any other heavy object so that more of the vessels that circulate water in the shoots (called "xylems") open up and absorb water from the vase.
5. Place the vase in a warm, well-lit area and your twig will bloom in a few days.

Distillation in pots lives a matter of days, less than cut tulips or daffodils with hyacinths. Whatever bouquet for March 8 you choose in flower shop, it will still be similar to others that your mother, sister, girlfriend will receive as a gift on March 8.

Tulip bulbs. - get-togethers. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and It is very cold on the balcony in winter, very hot at home. Is it written on the package to store +20? and another question - if you plant it in a pot right now and water it ...

Girls, what to do with tulip bulbs? My husband bought several pieces of tulips with bulbs, I would like to keep them for summer cottages - some lilac ones with fringe on the tips and just huge yellow ones. Put to dry and refrigerate? How many stems should be left?

girls .. I want to make a gift for my girlfriend on the DR - a bouquet of daffodils .. but that's bad luck - not Two weeks ago I was in Ikea, there were chic pots with forcing daffodils (also in our AUCHAN baskets with 9 bulbs of terry daffodils (already such green stalks ...

Good afternoon, I bought hyacinth bulbs. I want to receive flowers by March. Two weeks ago I was in Ikea, there were chic pots with forcing daffodils (not yet. Last year, my husband gave me a gift. I bought myself and my daughter by March 8, and next year I would like them to bloom on the site.

Gifts for March 8. These wicked men. About his own, about a girl's. Discussion of questions about the life of a woman in the family, at work, relationships with aha, in one of the offices where I worked, there were black tables ... and somehow, on the morning of March 8, each lady had three scarlet carnations on the table ...

Bulb forcing for Christmas. Bulbs of hyacinths should protrude slightly above the ground, and bulbs of other plants should be placed deeper. I offer beautifully decorated bulbous - flowering hyacinths as a gift for March 8th.

Bulb forcing for Christmas. They bloomed for me about two months after planting, I'll try to find a photo of the result :-) The bulbs were from Hyacinth in a pot: how to care for at home. Many of us received as a gift on March 8 not a bouquet of cut flowers, but ...

Ladies, good afternoon. Miniature daffodils, tulips, crocuses and hyacinths have faded on the windowsill - greenhouse distillation, bought in a store. Is it possible to use the bulbs of these plants, somehow transplant, plant, do something else to repeat ...

Need for gifts at work, about 200 pots. Bought in pots in obi, bloomed at home for two weeks. Distillation of bulbous plants at home. You can buy daffodil bulbs in almost any flower shop, there are many offers on the Internet.

I spilled epin the other day, the result is 0 so far I also want to try to plant it like that, I just dug out the bulbs in this Plant a hyacinth bulb a second time in the middle of autumn at the same time as tulips - then it will bloom next spring.

Tulip tubers. Flowers. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries Tell me what you need to do with tulip tubers now. Bought in pots in obi, bloomed at home for two weeks.

Coming soon March 8, Gifts. - get-togethers. Child from 3 to 7. Education, nutrition, daily routine, visiting kindergarten and relationships with OBI, hyacinths in pots are just blooming, however, by March 8 they will just be. For 49 rubles. very beautiful gift. well they...

Bulbs after forcing. Flowers. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. The bulbs are very depleted, but many already have babies. I wanted to plant them in a pot, but now I’m thinking if they will die, because. there will be no leaves left to feed the bulb.

They gave me a hyacinth on March 8 (past). It has faded, I kept the bulb as expected, in a dark, cool place, in October at the dacha. Forcing bulbous plants at home. What does it mean to "kick out" the bulbs? This means creating conditions for him, with ...

This means that the bulb is large enough to give a good forcing in the spring, for example by March 8th. And in "VAZA" it was wrongly meant in a pot. If you have questions, ask. The experience of forcing bulbs on March 8 is huge.

And I want to ask: here it will fade in a pot, and then what to do with it, with the bulb, so that in I need help with hyacinth. They gave me a hyacinth on March 8 (past). Hyacinth in a pot: how to care for at home. Distillation of bulbous plants at home.

They grew beautifully and exactly by Women's Day revealed themselves in all their glory. So I have a question, do you know, tulips don't care when they are planted in a room? Those. if I plant them in October, for example, and put them on the window, is it likely that they ...

Large bulbs are suitable for distillation. I planted in December, and by March 8, my first yellow tulip bloomed. Bulb forcing for Christmas. about tulips Actually forcing includes the rooting of planted bulbs (about 15 days) and forcing (3 weeks).

Hyacinth is one of the best forcing bulbous plants. Blooms when distilled in winter and early spring. Distillation of hyacinths is also possible in special glasses with water, in which a mixture of mineral fertilizers is dissolved.

Distillation flowering perennials in room conditions

Indoor flowers: Forcing blooming perennials indoors

Callas. Distillation of callas.
To get high-quality calla flowers in winter in a greenhouse, you need to plant them in early August. Callas grow well on soils richly seasoned organic fertilizers(sheep, cow dung). Two weeks before planting, spread organic fertilizer evenly and dig the soil to a depth of 30-35 cm. Calla rhizomes are planted on ridges, the distance between plants in a row is 25 cm, between rows up to 70 cm.
Planting is carried out during the dormant period of plants, when the roots and leaves die off (in summer, when watering is stopped), or during the growing season with a developed root system and leaves. From the mother plant (nest) is separated (with preservation maximum number roots) daughter plants and planted, leaving the apical leaves (side cut off), during wet soil and watered.
early boarding, careful care, allow you to get flowers in November, December.
Calla lilies are usually pulled out with a sharp movement by the peduncle. In order to avoid damage to well-rooted plants, one should press the bush to the ground with one hand, and pull out the flowers with the other.
Calla lilies should be cut at the beginning of the unfolding of the wrapper (when it turns white). At this time, callas are the most beautiful and stay fresh longer.
If callas grow without a transplant for the 2nd year, then for their normal development, in August, the bases of the bushes should be opened from the soil to 10 cm. In addition, young daughter rhizomes are separated from large nests, leaving one central and up to three young ones. All sprouted and non-sprouted children on the abandoned plants are removed and up to 1 kg of fertilizer is applied under each bush, then covered with soil.

Gerbera. Forcing gerbera.
Gerbera flowers are distinguished by an unusual range of colors and an elegant structure. Gerbera is propagated by seeds, as well as by separating young shoots with their subsequent rooting. Gerbera grows well in a substrate with an acidic reaction. In alkaline soils, for its normal development, regular acidification with hydrochloric or sulfuric acid and a full range of mineral fertilizers is necessary.
The soil is prepared from 50% peat, 35% humus and 15% coarse sand. Grow gerbera in the ground, on racks, in greenhouse pots. Abundant flowering from March to May.

Freesia. Freesia forcing.
An unpretentious bulbous plant grown for flowers from January to March. 10-15 bulbs are planted in small bowls, pots. In room conditions, they are grown on bright balconies, in greenhouses: in the ground or on racks. Planting time is the whole month of October. Planting depth 5-6cm; per 1 square meter of area from 150 to 250 pieces (depending on the size of the bulbs). Grows well in soils rich in organic fertilizers. Freesia is usually propagated by a baby, formed in several pieces per bulb and seeds.
When planting a small baby, freesia blooms later. The color of the flowers is white, yellow, orange, purple. Freesia flowers have a pleasant aroma. The shape of the flower is a bell, small in size (up to 5 cm in diameter), 5-9 pieces per peduncle.

Surely every gardener has at least once met callas, which are grown as a potted plant.

Few people thought that you can plant callas in the garden, the main thing is to provide them with proper care.

How to grow callas outdoors

During flowering, callas are quite beautiful. Each peduncle lives for a month.

If you decide to grow callas, then allocate enough space for them. Plants prefer open clearings, but in the heat of the day they need saving shade. It is good if shrubs or trees grow nearby.

The soil for growing callas is selected fertile. Poor in composition, the land is enriched with humus and peat. Before planting, the soil must be drained, as the plants do not tolerate stagnant moisture at the roots.

Among other things, callas have their own characteristics that must be considered when planting:

Rhizomes are planted shallow, barely sprinkled with earth to avoid rotting;

Sprouts appear only after a month, calla lilies build up the root system for a long time;

The tubers of the plant are quite fragile, they must be handled with care.

Grow callas in middle lane Russia is not difficult, but for the winter the tubers must be dug up and stored in a cold place.

How to plant callas in the garden (photo)

Plant tubers in open ground in the spring, when the threat of frost has passed. autumn planting plants are not included.

As a rule, callas are planted in mid-May, after preparing the tubers.

1. Planting material is kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes.

2. Dry the tubers and cut out all the affected areas, capturing healthy tissue.

3. All sections are treated with brilliant green.

Pickled tubers are planted in a garden bed, which is previously dug up with mineral fertilizers. The depth of planting tubers is about 5-10 cm. Larger bulbs are buried deeper, and small ones are placed almost on the surface of the soil. The distance between plants in the flower bed is made from 30 to 40 cm.

Be patient after planting. Remember that the plant does not sprout for a long time until a good one is formed. root system. All this time, you do not need to water the garden bed, the moisture that remains after planting will be enough.

There is another way to plant callas, which is often used by gardeners. In mid-March, the tubers are planted in bowls and watered well. Any flower soil that is sold in stores will do. A month before planting the plants in the flower bed, the pots are taken out into the street for hardening. Calla lilies are transplanted along with an earthen clod, by transshipment.

How to care for calla lilies outdoors

Caring for callas does not cause worries. All the plants need is watering and loose soil.

Water the flowers moderately, but regularly. During the dry season, watering is increased. In addition, after each watering, the soil around the bush is carefully loosened, trying not to damage the roots.

Calla lilies are fertilized only if the soil on the site is poor. Mineral fertilizers are suitable for top dressing, with a solution of which flowers are watered once a month. If, when planting, the holes were filled with fertilizers, then you do not need to additionally feed the callas.

rest period

In the conditions of Russia, callas are grown as annual plant because they can't stand harsh winters. Therefore, every autumn the tubers are dug up and stored until planting.

After flowering, the tubers are removed from the ground, washed well and dried in a ventilated area. At the same time, they try not to remove the leaves, since during this period nutrients descend into tubers. The tubers are dried for about 1.5 weeks, until the leaves themselves dry out and separate from the roots.

After 10-15 days, the tubers are examined, damaged or diseased are removed. For the rest, small roots are cut so that the tubers do not begin to germinate ahead of schedule. If children have formed, then they are left together with the mother plant, without separating them.

Bulbs are stored in a cool room where the temperature does not rise above + 7C. If this condition is not met, then you can forget about the flowering of callas. Many gardeners store tubers in basement but it must be dry. It is very important to monitor the humidity of the air so that the plants do not start growing or begin to rot. Regularly inspect the tubers, select suspicious ones.

You can store the rhizomes in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Previously, each tuber is wrapped in paper and placed in a bag. The duration of the dormant period is from 1.5 to 2 months.

Calla reproduction

Callas reproduce by babies that form on the roots of the mother plant. They are carefully separated from the tubers and grown in a bowl or in a garden bed.

Up to 30 children can form on one tuber. They are separated and placed in bowls with loose soil. The depth of placement of children is 5-6 cm. Nutrient soil is used, which is pre-mixed with mineral fertilizers.

After the emergence of seedlings, the nodules are seated at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. In the room where callas are grown, the temperature is maintained at 15-17 degrees. Care for young callas in the same way as for adult plants. Children regularly, but little by little, water, the soil in the pot is loosened.

As soon as the callas grow up and release the second leaf, the plants are fed with complex fertilizers. They must contain nitrogen and potassium. Feeding frequency - 1 time per month. The first year, young plants are grown at room conditions without a dormant period, and the next summer, the tubers are transferred to the standard scheme.

What kind of calla to plant on the site (photo of varieties)

Only three types of callas are involved in breeding new varieties:

Ethiopian;

Remann;

Eliot.

Ethiopian calla- a large rhizomatous plant that does not have a bulb. The height of the peduncle of this plant reaches 1 meter. Ethiopian calla prefers moist soil, it does not have a pronounced dormant period, it does not shed its leaves. Among this variety, the following varieties are most popular:

Green Goddess - plant height about 90 cm, green veil;

Pearls are a low-growing variety that is convenient to grow in pots;

Nikolay - a coverlet of green color, large, up to 12 cm in diameter, peduncle height up to 1.5 meters.

Calla Remann - the height of the plant barely reaches 70 cm. The cover of the peduncle is pale pink with a lilac tint. underground part represented by a tuber that resembles a gloxinia tuber. Calla sheds leaves, a dormant period is required for regular flowering. Popular varieties:

Evening - a coverlet of a black-lilac shade;

Indian summer - pomegranate veil;

Chameleon - a cover of a peach-colored peduncle with golden tints.

Calla Eliotta - peduncle cover yellow color, large. The height of the plant is about 50 cm, the leaves are large, heart-shaped with specks. Varieties:

Vermeer - peduncle cover wavy dark cherry color;

Yellow corner - colorful plants, leaves with yellow specks;

Black-eyed beauty - lemon-colored bedspread, speckled leaves.

Other types of calla lilies growing in the wild are not suitable for horticultural cultivation.

Lilies of the valley and hyacinths blooming on December 31 or tulips and crocuses blooming by March 8 are not a fairy tale, but the very reality. A similar miracle can be obtained if you resort to forcing plants - easy way obtaining flowering crops at the wrong time for them. To do this, flowers or shrubs need to create conditions close to spring in order to speed up the vegetative processes.

Forcing flowers at home: terms and rules

When there is a blizzard outside and the temperature is minus twenty, I really want to speed up the arrival of spring. But this is quite within the power of any grower, even in an ordinary city apartment. It's about expulsion. The transformation of the bulb into beautiful flower each time is perceived as a miracle, as a challenge to nature. In those days when natural plants are still very far away, fragrant hyacinths or exquisite daffodils, bright tulips, delicate crocuses or original bulbous irises may appear in our house.

Modern methods of forcing bulbous plants make it possible to obtain flowering crops starting in December. From shrubs, lilac lends itself well to forcing, you can even make twigs bloom in nutrient solution. Lilies of the valley are also quite often grown in winter.

According to the timing, distillation is divided into:

• very early (late December - January 1);
• early (January);
• middle (February - March 8);
• late (end of March);
• very late (after April 1).

Beginners can be advised to do medium and late forcing at home - it is much easier and will allow you to acquire certain skills.

When forcing bulbous crops, three basic rules must be followed:

1. Digging bulbs from open ground is carried out earlier than usual, until the leaves turn yellow and dry.
2. First, the bulbs are kept at elevated temperatures.
3. Then all the bulbs need a cooling period.

If the forcing of flowers at home is carried out by March 8 and later, then the fulfillment of the first two conditions is not necessary.

In large cities, it is now possible to purchase imported bulbs (often from Holland), which are specially prepared for earlier flowering - there is a mark “For forcing” on the package. They are more expensive than usual, and they need to be planted as soon as possible after purchase.

Plant forcing technology at home

If you are going to prepare the bulbs for forcing yourself, this must be done in advance. Bulbs large, dense, with a small even bottom, intended for forcing next year, are planted on a separate bed. In tulips and daffodils, after staining the buds, decapitation is carried out, that is, the heads are cut off; hyacinth inflorescences scurry after the opening of the first flower. This creates favorable conditions for bulb development.

In order for all the rules of forcing technology to be clearly observed, after digging, the largest, healthy bulbs are selected.

In daffodils, it is better to take one-two-top bulbs with a diameter of at least 4.5 cm, which give 1-2 peduncles. Three-peaks can throw out the third peduncle, but the flower will be smaller and bloom later. It must be remembered that the size is not always the criterion for the readiness of the bulbs for forcing. Some varieties of daffodils (for example, small-crowned) and tulips (Triumph) have small bulbs.

However crucial in the preparation of bulbous flowers for distillation has temperature regime. When the bulbs are dug out ahead of schedule, the processes of forming a flower germ do not have time to complete in them. Therefore, they must be exposed elevated temperature. The bulbs are kept for 7 days at 34 ° C in a thermostat, a converted incubator, a germination cabinet. Then the bulbs are stored at a temperature approximately corresponding to the natural one at this time of the year: until August at 23-25 ​​° C, in August at 20 ° C, from September until planting - at 16-17 ° C.

For forcing bulbous plants at home, bulbs are usually planted in the first half of October in a neutral, moisture-absorbing, breathable substrate - light garden earth, sand, peat, perlite or a mixture of these components. There is also a hydroponic forcing technique. Hyacinths can bloom in normal water, but if you want to save the bulbs for later use in landscaping, you need to plant them in pots with a fertilized earth mixture. Bulbs planted in the substrate must be subjected to cooling at a temperature of 8-9 ° C. For daffodils and tulips, the cooling period is 16-22 weeks, for hyacinths it is shorter - 10-16 weeks. During this period of artificially simulated winter, the growth hormone gibberellin is synthesized and accumulated in the bulbs, rooting occurs, and the growth of the peduncle and leaves begins.

Before you make a distillation, you need to prepare pots or other containers. One large onion is placed in pots with a diameter of 9 cm, 13 cm - 3 bulbs, 16 cm in diameter - 5. The largest ones are planted almost close, gaps of up to 1 cm are left between the smaller ones.

They also use standard plastic boxes (60 x 40 x 18 cm) with support legs, where 50-60 large hyacinth bulbs, 60-80 daffodil bulbs or 80 tulip bulbs can be placed. Bulbs are planted closely, but in such a way that they do not touch each other and the walls of the container. Then water abundantly: after watering, the tops of the bulbs should peek out of the substrate. Tulips are watered with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate, as their bulbs are poor in calcium. Such top dressing prevents the formation of blind buds and the drooping of future flowers.

Then the boxes are installed in a dark cold room with an air temperature of 8-9 ° C and a relative humidity of more than 95%. Pots can be stored in the lower compartment household refrigerator, closing plastic wrap for supporting high level humidity. Water the substrate weekly. During rooting, the humidity is adjusted to almost 100%, ventilation is reduced. After rooting, air humidity is reduced to 70% with constant ventilation, avoiding drafts. Boxes or pots can be dug in the garden, when cold weather sets in, they are covered with foliage, foam rubber, so that the temperature in the zone of occurrence of the bulbs does not fall below 0 ° C. If the flowers are "in a hurry" or "late" by the scheduled date, a correction is made by raising or lowering the temperature.

To determine the time when it is necessary to start cooling the bulbs (for example, daffodils), another 2.5 weeks are added to 16-18 weeks for the development of peduncles and leaves in the light and the result obtained (18-20.5 weeks) is counted from the desired flowering date. For example, for forcing by March 8, cooling should begin in the first decade of October. In hyacinths, the development of flower stalks takes up to two weeks, in tulips - up to three to four. If you want to get a cut in late March - early April, planting and cooling should begin in mid - late October and keep daffodils at 5-8 ° C. At this temperature, the flower stalks and leaves will still continue to grow, and by the time of planting, i.e., transferring the planted bulbs to light warm room, can stretch up to 20 cm, which will lead to their lodging. To avoid this, in mid-December, the temperature is reduced to 2 ° C for the March distillation and to 0.5 ° C for the later one.

The photo "Forcing bulbous plants at home" will help you better understand the process technology:

Schemes for forcing flowers for March 8 and the New Year

Distillation according to nine-degree technology by February 23 - March 8 is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The bulbs are dug at the usual time.
• From July 15 to October 1, the bulbs are in storage at a temperature of 17-20 °C.
• Landing in the substrate in batches from 1 to 10 October.
• Keep in the refrigerator at 9 ° C until December 1, then at a temperature of 2-3 ° C.
• After January 25, they are transferred to a greenhouse, where the temperature is maintained at 16-18 ° C.
• Flowering occurs 3.5-4 weeks after planting.

Distillation for the New Year according to five-degree technology is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Bulbs are dug up no later than June 20, until the leaves have dried up.
• Dry for 1 day.
• 1 week is heated at a temperature of 34 ° C, air humidity 70%.
• Then 2-3 weeks kept at a temperature of 20 °C.
• The bulbs are placed in the refrigerator, where they are kept at a temperature of 5 ° C and an air humidity of 70%.
• Planted in the substrate on October 25 and installed in a bright room.
• The first 2 weeks maintain the temperature of the soil at 10-11 °C, air - 11-13 °C, then, respectively, 16 and 16-18 °C.
• Tulips bloom in 6-8 weeks.

Forcing flowers by March 8 using a five-degree technology is carried out according to the following scheme:

• From mid-July to mid-October, the bulbs are in storage at a temperature of 20 °C.
• Refrigerate at 5°C for 12 weeks.
• Landing in the substrate January 10-20.
• The first two weeks maintain the temperature of the soil 10-11 °C, air - 11-13 °C, then 16 and 16-18 °C, respectively.
• Flowering occurs in 6-8 weeks.

Very often, flower growers make the mistake of trying to speed up flowering by raising the temperature at the last stage of forcing. The air temperature in the greenhouse in December, January and February should not be higher than 18 ° C, and the soil - 16 ° C. At higher temperatures, many cut qualities deteriorate, blind buds appear, flowers overturn, plants are damaged by fusarium, ethylene toxicosis. Larger flowers are formed at 15 ° C, but at the same time the vegetation lengthens by an average of 5 days.

How to make forcing hyacinth bulbs for the New Year at home (with video)

Hyacinths obtained by distillation are superior in decorativeness even to open ground plants: they have a large, dense inflorescence with a much larger (sometimes 2 times) number of flowers and a taller peduncle.

How to make a forcing of hyacinths for the New Year and Christmas? For early distillation not all varieties are suitable, but only those that need a short cooling period. Bulbs are dug out of the ground a week earlier than usual. For the forcing of hyacinths for the New Year and Christmas, bulbs weighing 60-80 g, with a diameter of at least 4 cm are selected, dried and stored for 2 weeks at 30 ° C. The next 3 weeks maintain a temperature of 25 ° C. Then, for a month, the bulbs are stored at 22-23 ° C and then until planting at a temperature of 16-17 ° C. Hyacinth bulbs are planted for forcing into the substrate from October 1 to October 5. Containers with bulbs are transferred to the basement, where the temperature is maintained at 8-9 ° C and the relative humidity of the air is more than 95%. Small pots can be installed at the bottom of the refrigerator, packed in a plastic bag. Optimal timing cooling 10-14 weeks. Suspension of distillation of hyacinths at home is made 14-20 days before the scheduled flowering time. The temperature in the room should be 23-25 ​​°C. The first 3-4 days, hyacinths are shaded with black film or paper so that the flower stalks stretch out. When the flowers begin to open, the temperature is reduced to 16-18 ° C, which will prolong flowering. Watered daily in the morning. Cut off after opening all the flowers in the inflorescence.

Preparation of hyacinths for flowering in late February - early March. Bulbs are dug out of the soil at the usual time. Until September 1, store at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, then maintain 17 ° C for a month. Plant no later than October 5th. Until December 15, cooling is carried out at 8-9 ° C. Then, to slow down the growing season, the temperature is reduced to 1-2 ° C. Plants are taken out into the light 3-4 weeks before the planned flowering period.

For November distillation, varieties such as Anna-Marie - pink, Bismarck - light purple, General Koehler - blue (terry), La Victoire - pink-red, Ostara - blue, " Rosalia" - pink, "Tubergen Scarlet" - red.

For flowering in December-January, it is better to use "Blue Magic" - blue, "Violet Pearl" - lilac, "Delft Blue" - blue, "Innosance" -, "Lord Bal-four" - dark lilac, "Marconi" - pink , "Pink Pearl" - pink, "Eros" - pink, "Jan Bos" - red.

For the February forcing, they recommend "Amethyst" - lilac, "Amsterdam" - pink-red, "Ben Nevis" - white (terry), "Blue Jacket" - blue, "Trotvorst" - light lilac (terry), "Gypsy Queen" - orange, "Yellow Hammer" - yellow, "Carnegie" - white, "Lady Derby" - pink, "Menelik" - black and purple, "Pearl Brilliant" - blue.

Almost all varieties are suitable for late distillation, but the following are more commonly used: Indigo King - black and blue, King Codro - blue (terry), Sunflower - pale cream (terry), City of Harlem -, Hollyhock "- raspberry (terry), "Horkey" - cream (terry), "Chesnut Flower" - pink (terry), "Cyclops" - red.

When forcing hyacinths, like other bulbs, problems may arise:

• Yellow leaves. Most often, drafts lead to yellowing of the leaves, and insufficient or incorrect lighting can also contribute to this.
• The buds do not open. With irregular watering, the buds can dry out without opening. In addition, the buds may not open when water falls on them during careless watering.
• Uneven flowering. The main reason for this is planting bulbs of different sizes in one pot.
• Long wilted leaves. This defect appears if the plant pot has been kept in the dark for too long. Another reason may be insufficient lighting during flowering.
• Slow growth. Pots with plants were transferred too early to a bright room, without waiting for the sprouts to reach a height of 3-5 cm. Another reason may be insufficient watering plants during forcing.
• Lack of flowering. Plants will not bloom if too small bulbs are used for forcing or if the cooling period is not maintained.
• Flower decay. This leads to waterlogging of the substrate. Bulbs should be planted in pots with drainage holes. Excess water during watering is drained by slightly tilting the pot.

Watch the Hyacinth Forcing video to avoid all of the above problems:

Forcing daffodils in winter at home

The simplest scheme for forcing daffodils in winter by March 8th. The bulbs are dug out at the usual time, the largest ones are selected, weighing 80-90 g, preferably double-topped. Before planting, store in shading at normal air temperatures, but not more than 25 ° C. In early October, the bulbs are planted in standard boxes in fertile soil. Keep in an unheated room at a temperature of 5-9 ° C. They are transferred to the light in February and kept for the first 3-5 days at a temperature of 10-13 ° C, then at 16 ° C. Flowering occurs in 25-30 days.

The choice of varieties for forcing daffodils at home is limited only for early dates. Usually they use Barret Browning, Flower Record, Golden Harvist.

For later forcing, you can take any daffodils, except for the most late-flowering ones, traditionally use Ice Falls and Mount Hood. For pot culture, low or even miniature varieties of the Tête-à-tête type are better suited.

Technology, how to make a forcing of tulips by March 8 (with video)

And now about how to make the forcing of tulips by March 8 according to a five-degree scheme. To get a cut for Women's Day, bulbs weighing at least 25 g are suitable, and for forcing by the New Year, bulbs should be larger, weighing at least 30-35 g.

As you can see in the photo of the forcing of tulips, the fuller the bulbs, the larger and best quality flowers will be

AT last years the method of five-degree distillation has become widespread, in which the cooling of the bulbs is carried out before planting in the substrate. They are kept in a refrigerator at 5 ° C in gauze bags. The optimal bulb cooling time for forcing tulips at home is 12 weeks for the Darwin hybrid class and 9-10 weeks for varieties of other classes.

According to the technology of forcing tulips, 6-7 weeks before the expected flowering time, chilled bulbs are planted in a substrate and exposed to light, the air temperature is maintained at 16-18 ° C. Thus, the process of active root growth coincides with the growth of leaves and peduncle. This is the difference between a five-degree forcing and a nine-degree forcing, when the bulbs root during the cooling period.

After forcing, tulip bulbs are usually destroyed. However, rare varieties can be grown in open ground, it takes 1-2 seasons to restore them.

Now check out the video "Forcing Tulips by March 8" and try to get flowering plants for Women's Day on your own:

The best varieties of tulips for distillation at home

The best varieties of tulips for distillation at home are:

From Darwin hybrids- varieties "Oxford Elite", "Eric Hofsyu", "Forgotten Dreams", "Scarborough", "Ad Rem", "Vivex", "Kenigin Wilhelmina" (red in different shades with a yellow or orange border), "Ivory Floradale" ( creamy white), "Gordon Cooper" (pink).

From the Triumph class- varieties "Alberio" (red with a white border), "Kis Nelis" (dark red with an orange border), "Blizzard" (pure white).

Beginners can recommend varieties of Darwin hybrids: "Diplomat" (dark red with a strong wax coating) and "Oxford", or rather its clone (elongated flowers, orange-red, with a slightly greenish bottom). They are quite decorative, easier to distill than others, and the bulbs are relatively cheap.

For forcing in pots, simple early class varieties are usually used, for example, "Christmas Marvel".

But it is better to give preference to low, with bright and large flowers hybrids of tulips "Foster" and "Greig": "Toronto" (pink), "Dano" (white-pink), "Grand Prix" (red with a yellow border), "Princess", "Grand Prestige", "Princess Charmant ”(red, the last one with a strong pleasant smell).

Also good for these purposes is a clone of the tulip Excellent "Fusi" (orange, many-flowered).

The set of varieties for five-degree technology is somewhat smaller than for nine-degree technology, but still quite wide.

The most commonly used Darwin hybrids with red color - "Oxford", "Parade", "London".

Flowers with a yellow, orange or white border around the edges of the petals are much more spectacular: Forgotten Dreams, Eric Hofsyu, Gordon Cooper.

Pure pink "Pink Impreshnl" is very good.

More undersized tulips of the Triumph class are also used: “Kis Nelis”, “Lustige Vitve”, “Epricot Beauty”.

Planting crocuses and bulbous irises for distillation at home

Crocuses and bulbous irises are used for forcing much less often, but one cannot deny oneself the pleasure of getting touching buds of delicate flowers in the middle of winter.

Of the irises for distillation at home, the most commonly used types are mesh and "Denford".

Bulbs are dug in early June, the largest ones are selected, stored at 20 ° C until mid-August and then at 9 ° C until planting. They are planted in the substrate in early October so that the distance between the bulbs is 1 cm, they are sprinkled with a layer of earth of 1 cm on top. When forcing bulbous irises, boxes or pots with planted bulbs are kept for 14-16 weeks at a temperature of 9 ° C Then they are transferred to a bright room, where the temperature is maintained at 16 - 18 ° C. Plants bloom in 2 weeks, flowering lasts 7-9 days. Watering is moderate.

All species and their numerous hybrids are suitable for forcing crocuses at home, blooming in spring: spring crocus, golden-flowered crocus, beautiful crocus.

Of the varietal crocuses for distillation, Flower Record, Purple Sensation, Pickwick, Grand Yellow, Joan of Arc, Remembrance are most often used.

For forcing in February-March, large bulbs after harvesting are stored at a temperature of 20 ° C until September, then until planting at 17 ° C. Planting crocuses for forcing into the substrate is carried out from early October to mid-November, depending on the period of forcing. Bulbs are slightly pressed into the ground almost close to each other. Can be distilled in glass flasks with water. Cooling period 5 weeks at 9°C followed by 10 weeks at 5°C. If you need to delay flowering, the temperature is temporarily lowered to 1-2 ° C. Then the containers with rooted and germinated bulbs are transferred to a bright room and kept at a temperature of 15-17 ° C 2-3 weeks before the expected flowering time. At first, after transferring to the light, it is advisable to cover the plants with paper caps so that the flower stalks stretch out a little.

Technology for forcing lilies of the valley at home

Another spring Flower can please us in the cold season - lily of the valley. garden forms May lily of the valley is successfully distilled. In autumn, flower and vegetative buds are clearly visible on the rhizomes. The first ones are larger, blunt and directed vertically upwards. For forcing lilies of the valley, take segments of rhizomes with flower buds and roots. Harvesting of sprouts is carried out after the aerial part of the plant dies - from late September to mid-October. They are placed in bunches in a box and covered with wet moss or covered with sawdust to protect them from drying out. The boxes are dug in the garden. With the onset of frost (-5-6 ° C), they are kept outdoors for another week. Then, around the first half of November, they are transferred to the basement.

It will take 25-30 days to get flowering plants by the New Year. Before forcing lilies of the valley at home, the rhizomes are kept for 10 hours in warm water (30-35 ° C), preventing the temperature from dropping.

Then they are placed in small containers filled with wet moss or leafy soil, shaded with black paper and placed in a room at 25-30 ° C (next to or directly on radiators). The substrate is kept moist, the plants are sprayed with warm water every day. When the peduncle reaches a height of 8-10 cm and buds form, the paper is removed and the containers are transferred to the windowsill, where the air temperature should be 12-15 ° C. Blooming lilies of the valley can decorate festive table, but at night they should be moved closer to the window, otherwise they will quickly fade.

Shrub forcing technology

Quite successfully amenable to forcing shrubs. And it is not at all necessary to dig out a whole bush, cut branches are quite enough. Suitable for this method early varieties lilacs. In winter, powerful, better central shoots weighing at least 200 g are cut off. They are immediately brought into the room and immersed entirely for 12 hours in a bath with cold water. Then the ends of the branches are cut off under water and placed in the light in a special solution.

For forcing shrub plants into 10 liters of soft (snow, rain or boiled twice) water, take:

• 8 g of potassium alum;
• 4 g of potassium chloride;
• 3 g sodium chloride;
• 300 g sugar.

The solution is changed once a week. The room temperature should be at first 20 °C, then 15 °C. The branches must be sprayed with water, and it is advisable to spray the first week with sugar syrup. Flowering occurs in 22-27 days.

By the New Year, simple white varieties of lilac work best, as purple ones turn pale due to lack of light. Terry lilac blooms 3-4 days later and is generally more suitable for late forcing.

In this way, you can drive out branches and other shrubs and. At the same time, forsythia blooms after 10-12 days, chestnut - 30, wild apples and pears - 21, bird cherry - after 15-16 days.

At home, this is a long process, preparation for which begins long before the first buds appear in January or March.

Tulip bulbs, as well as other related crops, provide growth and flowering in the warm season, and for the dormant period they retain nutrients in their juicy thickened scales for future vegetation. The rudiments of buds are also formed in advance, and their quality largely depends on how the plant was cared for in the summer.

In order to get flowers loved by many in an unusual time for nature, all over the world they began to use these features of tulips, as well as the possibility of growing them right in the apartment. Forcing tulips at home allows you to see bright corollas of all shades from the end of December until May.

Features of forcing tulips at home

Since even in winter processes invisible to a person take place in the bulbs, it is not enough to buy or dig tulips from a flower bed in advance in order to plant them in pots closer to the scheduled time and wait for flowers. Work with planting material includes:

• selection of varieties according to the timing of flowering;
• selection of bulbs that are guaranteed to form healthy buds;
• storage until planting tulips;
• planting bulbs in the soil prepared for it;
• distillation from the appearance of sprouts to cutting colored buds.

Forcing can be early, middle and late, that is, flowering plants in greenhouses can be obtained by the New Year, and by Christmas, and by the first spring holidays. The most popular is growing tulips at home by March 8th.

Although the flowers do not live too long, experienced flower growers calculate the planting time in such a way that the best moment for cutting comes just before the holiday.

When to plant tulips at home

Those who are just taking their first steps in this area of ​​floriculture may consider this fact luck or a miracle. However, he has a very common explanation. This is a thorough knowledge of the life routine of the bulbous culture.

The dormant period of the bulbs lasts about 16 weeks, and the rooting and growth of the peduncle takes another 3 weeks. Counting back 19 weeks on the calendar, you can find out that you need to plant tulips for early spring cutting in the last week of October. By the same method, the landing time is calculated for distillation under New Year, Valentine's Day and other special occasions.

How to prepare tulip bulbs for planting

So that efforts are not in vain, you will have to prepare for forcing almost a year before it. If the summer resident wants to please loved ones with flowers from own garden, a couple of days after opening, the flower is cut off, leaving 2–4 healthy leaf. Bulbs should be dug at the end of June or early July, at the stage of wilting of several leaves. These measures will allow the planting material to maintain maximum strength and grow.

When the tulips are dug up, they are dried, the remnants of the withered above-ground part are removed and sorted. For forcing tulips at home, only the largest and strongest specimens with rounded sides, without signs of damage by insects, rot or fungi, are suitable. The optimal bulb diameter is 35–40 mm. The same criteria are used when purchasing planting material.

Properly organized storage, that is, keeping the temperature and air humidity comfortable for tulips, helps not only to preserve, but to prepare the bulbs for forcing, allowing them to form healthy buds of future flowers.

To simulate the onset of autumn:

• in the first month of storage, the temperature is maintained within 21–23 ° C;
• the next 4 weeks the bulbs are carried out at 20 ° C;
• in September-October, the air temperature drops to 15–17 °C.

If the bulbs were dug out of country beds, they are kept in dry heat for a week at a temperature of 33–34 ° C at the beginning of storage. This contributes to the laying of the flower bud.

How to grow tulips at home

When the forcing of tulips is due by March 8, already in October the grower should prepare:

• loose light substrate, such as a mixture of sand and sawdust, perlite and garden soil in which the bulb takes root well and quickly;
• containers with a perforated bottom to drain excess moisture or pots with drainage holes;
• , with which you can extend the daylight hours, prevent stretching and weakening of the sprouts.

Tulip bulbs selected for distillation are cleaned of hard brown scales before being transferred to the ground, inspected and sorted again. Before growing tulips at home planting material treated with a warm pink solution of potassium permanganate, it will reduce the risk of rot and fungal diseases.

During forcing bulbous plants actively spend the forces accumulated during the dormant period, so they do not need a lot of space and especially nutritious soil. There can be up to 350 plants per meter of area during industrial plantings. At home, tulips are planted at intervals of 5–10 mm, lightly pressing into the substrate. When all the bulbs are in place, the soil is filled up, and the containers are watered abundantly. If necessary, after watering the soil is sprinkled.

Then the tulips are transferred to a room with a temperature of 5–9 ° C and air humidity in the range of 75–80%. Here the plants have to take root, and when the first sprouts appear, the temperature is further lowered to 2-4 ° C.

In such conditions, tulips are until 3 weeks remain for the moment of their planned flowering. By this time, foliage about 6 cm high rises above the soil, and the plants need more heat and light. The level of air heating is changed gradually, bringing it to 16–18 ° C in 3–5 days. In order for the sprouts to be strong and the flower stalks to be strong, turn on the lamps daily above the containers, extending the daylight hours from 3 to 5 hours. Watering tulips, as before, is carried out at the first sign of drying of the soil. Plants are fed daily with ammonium nitrate or other mixtures containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

If all conditions are met, soon the ends of the buds that appear will begin to color. At this point, it is advisable to reduce the temperature by 3-5 ° C, which will somewhat delay the opening of the corollas and prolong their flowering.

Video about planting tulip bulbs for distillation