E-books are firmly in modern life almost completely replacing the traditional ones. It is understandable - you can read this or that work you like anywhere right from the screen of your phone or tablet. At the same time, there is no need to carry around a weighty and space-consuming publication. At the same time, there are still people for whom a book is not just a source of information, but creature with its own soul, smell and history. It is important for them not only to read the text, but also to enjoy the process, turning pages and making notes. Electronic devices such an opportunity is not provided. Not always liked work can be found in the library. Therefore, printing it out from a computer and binding books with your own hands will help to make an individual author's work. Also, this useful knowledge will allow you to make beautiful photo albums, author's notebooks and diaries on your own.

Binding types

Creating a book from scratch is a rather laborious process. But it is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Even high school students can master it. This skill in the future will help you independently draw up coursework and theses without resorting to the services of printing houses.

There are several ways to bind publications at home. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

1. Binding with cord or rings. This way of connecting pages together is the easiest. For its execution, you just need to punch through a hole punch right amount holes and thread a connecting tape or special fastening rings through them.

1. Scrapbooking. This type of binding is also quite simple in execution, but is suitable only for small creations up to 16 pages maximum. Its essence is to fasten pages with paper strips.

This type of binding is more suitable for albums than for books.

1. Book binding, consisting of five subspecies:

• sewing with wire stitch;
• sewing with pottery threads;
• adhesive seamless bonding;
• adhesive seamless bonding with edging;
• sewing with a wire vtachka.

The main advantage of this technique is the strength of fasteners, presentable appearance and durability.

There are also hard and soft covers. For hard paper, cardboard endpapers are used, and soft paper can be used for the cover of thick paper.

Making a book yourself

Before you start binding the prepared text, carefully study the master class below. It will help you deal with the subtleties and nuances of notebook binding pages.

Step-by-step instruction. We print the text on A4 paper and fold each sheet in half, collecting a notebook from them. Each notebook consists of four pages folded in the middle.

We will collect the creation of eight notebooks.

To do this, you can use a special press or use heavy household items. For example, press them clean cutting board on which to put a bucket of water.

While the future book is under pressure, we make a template for piercing holes. The pages of the book will be stitched through them.

Using the template, we mark up blanks.

We pierce holes in each notebook using an awl.

We prepare the braid for binding, fixing it on the edge of the table with tape.

We sew notebooks together, carefully following the numbering of pages. For convenience in work, we use some kind of load so that the parts do not drive along the working surface and do not move one relative to the other.

The ends of the threads are tied with a regular knot.

Starting from the third brochure, we fix the thread as shown in the photo.

We fix the book block with a knot.

We coat the PVA spine so that it sticks together and in this position we let the block dry.

After that, glue the flyleaf.

Now we need to align the book. To do this, we use a clerical knife, a piece of plastic, plywood, a string. The board will serve as a kind of ruler, so make sure that it is even. Traditional measuring device will not fit, as it will be difficult to hold.

Some time ago, I wanted to read The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams. I tried to read several translations and none of them suited me. Therefore, it was decided to read in English! It is quite difficult to find these books in the original in our bookstores. And if there is, then only the first part of the cycle. AT in electronic format a little easier to find. But I prefer to read from paper (I will definitely buy an E-ink reader - I like it very much), so I print books.

The first two books looked like this:

I read them with great pleasure, but they did not look very good. And I decided that Life, the Universe, and Everything"needs to be done in a book.

Process with pictures and comments under the cut. Beware, there are a lot of pictures.

Seal

It would seem, what could be easier than printing a book? But there are several important points here.
First, you need to choose the right paper. All paper, which is produced industrially at the pulp and paper mill, has a clearly defined direction of the fibers. The absolute majority of readers have access only to printers that can print on sheets no larger than A4 format. Almost all paper of this size (I have tried about 20 brands) has grain direction along the long side (short-to-short-side bends much worse than long-to-long). Try it for yourself and you will immediately understand what we are talking about. We ideally want the fibers to be along the short side. Unfortunately, the packaging of ordinary office paper is not labeled for this parameter. Of those 20 marks, all were "inappropriate". Quoted because the result does not deteriorate much, and I believe that if you do not have the right paper, then it makes no sense to worry and print on the one that is.

Secondly, the pages on the book sheets are not in order.

We will make a classic book. This means that in each notebook of the book block we will have 16 A5 pages - 4 A4 sheets sealed on both sides and folded in half.

We start by creating a layout. I used OpenOffice Writer (hereinafter - OOW). We select the desired typeface and font size, set the margins, number the pages. I draw your attention to the fact that the font size should be larger than desired. A little later it will become clear why. Save and export to PDF.

OOW cannot print pages in random order. That is, if you set page numbers 16 and 1, then it will print the first page first, and then the sixteenth. But Foxit Reader, which I use to view and work with PDF, does everything as it should. In the printer settings, select the landscape orientation of the sheet, and in the FoxitReader print settings - two pages on one sheet. This is where the increased font size comes in handy, because the actual page size will decrease.

Every two lines indicate the order in which the pages of one notebook will be printed. First we print one side (8 pages), then turn the paper over and print the second side.
I can have a calculator.

Printing more than one notebook at a time can be risky. First you need to understand the features of the paper feed of a particular printer. Yes, and then we will work with notebooks. So printing one notebook at a time is our choice.

Assembling the book block

Here's what we got:

In my case, this is 8 notebooks.

There are many ways to make binding and stitching a book block, I will talk about those that I use myself.

Let's get started.

First you need to bend the notebooks in half. This is where sheets with the correct direction of the fibers would be especially useful to us. You can bend each sheet individually, or you can bend the entire notebook (4 sheets). I prefer the second option. It seems to me that this way the notebook turns out to be more solid. The spoon in the previous photo is not left over from lunch - it is very convenient for her to press the fold line.

The next step desirable but not required. It would be nice to clamp the bent edge of all notebooks in a special press. But without fanaticism, otherwise there is a risk of crumpling notebooks.

While the notebooks are under pressure, we need to mark out the template for punching holes. We take a piece of cardboard. We designate the edges (210 mm - according to the sheet format). For sewing the book block, we will use a tape 5 mm wide. In order for the book block to be very strong, we will sew it on three ribbons. We take the distance between the holes for the tapes 6-7 mm. And along the hole at a distance of 10 mm from the edge. Everything is clearly visible in the picture.

We mark the fold of each notebook.

We pierce holes from the inside with an awl. Here's what we get outside.

We take pieces of tape and glue them on the right distance tape from each other. Glue to the very edge of the table. That's the most convenient way.

With which notebook (from the first or last) to start - it does not matter. The main thing is not to confuse their order. Page numbers should be carefully monitored. Otherwise it will have to be redone. I want to immediately draw your attention to the fact that until the very moment of gluing the book block, we can change everything we want.
Here you can take a break, relax a little. Because sewing the block is a very important part of assembling the book.

We sew! For sewing, I use embroidery thread. They are strong, docile, colorful, thick enough and very easy to find. Have you ever seen a book sewn with lilac thread? I didn't see either. That's why we take the bright one. Individuality is one of the reasons to do all this.

The use of cargo is highly desirable. Notebooks will not move one relative to the other.
Ribbons are sheathed on the outside.

So we almost sewed two notebooks. We fix the thread with an ordinary double knot.

From the third to the last notebook we fix the thread in this way.

We fix the last notebook with a knot again.

Our book block is almost ready!

We use either a clamp like mine, or a regular heavy weight on top.
We fix the block so that the edge protrudes a little. We coat with PVA glue (clerical is quite suitable). Glue is needed quite a bit, just enough so that it penetrates a little between the notebooks. And we clamp it under the load so that the notebooks stick together. You don't need to pull hard.

Next, glue the endpapers. If we used ordinary office paper for printing, then for endpapers we need to use thick paper, from 130 g/m2. The endpapers will unite the binding and the book block into one whole.

It is important that everything is completely dry. While it dries, we need to get ready to trim the block.

An old plastic folder, a piece of laminate, a clamp and a knife. If you have the same knife, be sure to change the blade to a fresh one. The knife must be very sharp. No, not sharp, but ACUTE. We clamp the completely dried block as shown in the photo. We press with all our weight on the edge of the laminate, where the knife lies. Trim the edge with a sharp motion. 3-4 sheets per pass. You can’t relax, otherwise the block will “leave”. It may not work out right the first time. And, I'm afraid that it will be difficult to do without such a design. Can't hold a simple line. If you have friends in the printing house, you can ask them to cut on the guillotine.

Here is such a beauty.

The next step is to complete the assembly of the book block. First, glue a layer of gauze on the end. It is also good to use filter paper. The goal is to reinforce the butt so that the book lasts a long time.

To protect the corners of the book block, you need to stick captals on them. These are pieces of tape in which one edge is thicker than the other. You can stick a little more than you need. Then we'll cut it.

We leave everything to dry.

Making binding

For binding, we need two cardboard boxes. In size, they should be a few millimeters larger on each side than the cut book block. Binding cardboard can be bought in art stores (there, however, it is sold out quickly) or you can disassemble the archive folder. I did so. Strictly speaking, I have these cardboard boxes from one of the previous bindings.

This time I decided to make binding with fabric. For the first time, you can (and should) take a piece of old wallpaper. It will be beautiful and everything will stick perfectly. If you decide to take the fabric, do not forget to iron it.

Between the thick cartons lies a strip of thin cardboard. This will be the end of the book. The distance between them is 4-5 mm. For reliability, we glue the middle of the structure with filter paper. The fabric is marked. The cardboard is glued to the fabric.

The binding is ready!

Putting together a book

Oddly enough, this is one of the easiest steps.
We try on the book block and binding to each other. We mark the best position.
We insert sheets between the folds of the endpaper blank paper to keep the glue from flowing. We glue the endpaper and cover with glue. We use a brush so that there are no dry places.

We perform the same operation on the other side.

We put the book under the load.

After a couple of hours, take it out and let it dry completely.
Our book is ready.

We read, have fun and remember the main rule "Don" t panic!

Mai ashipki

Or what could have been done differently to make the result better.
I took too light and loose fabric. Darker and denser would be more elegant.
The flyleaf turned out in folds.

I poured too much glue. And the paper for the flyleaf was not thick enough. Ideally, only traces of the tapes on which the block was sewn would be visible.
The first pages from the outer edges are a little rippling. This is due to the large amount of glue and due to the direction of the fibers.

Conclusion

Of course, it would be easier to just type and read. Or read from the screen. But I just love the process of creating a book. You can choose the font, paper, binding design, and not use what the publisher will offer. It turns out a unique book. This, from my point of view, is one big plus.

The disadvantages include sufficient labor intensity. One book took me almost a whole day.

And I apologize for the uneven photo quality. The lighting changed a lot during the day.

I decided to somehow try my hand at forex, downloaded a bunch of e-books, settled on one very good and quite voluminous in terms of the number of sheets (400 pages).

I decided to print the e-book and make a hardcover.
Electronic book I had it in .dejvu format

The most important thing is to print the pages as they should.

Print settings:

printing 2 pages on one side of an A4 sheet is A5 format.

We make the necessary fields so that you can seamlessly sew. I also made a markup - a vertical line between the sheets, for the convenience of cutting an A4 sheet in half.

Print sheets on both sides. But before that, I experimented a bit so that everything prints out as it should. I fed each sheet into the printer manually. This took me about 20-30 minutes.

We cut the sheets into and sort into pages.

Aligning a stack of sheets. We got all the sheets separately (not notebooks).

We proceed to fastening the sheets together into a book block.

To do this, we need a small, naturally, homemade press and PVA glue.

The press, as you can see, I made from 2 pieces of a floorboard and 2 studs (from car rods), in general, from what was at hand.

It looks as shown in the photo.

We align the stack of sheets and clamp it into the press. We generously coat the side to be stitched with PVA glue several times and let the glue dry completely. This is done to initially hold the sheets together and make it easier to work with the block. After gluing, it takes some time to dry.

We take our book blank, and where we glued it for the first time, we make cuts to a depth of 3-4 mm.

I abundantly soaked the pieces of thread with PVA glue and pushed them tightly into the cuts.

After I finished with the threads, I once again generously smeared this surface with glue. I put a fabric on the glue and pressed it tightly. The fabric was smeared with glue on top.

In this form, I put everything in a warm place.

It remains to make endpapers and cover.

Since I don’t have a book for an exhibition, but purely for myself, I decided not to bother with a hard cover, but used a cover from an old book of a suitable size.

After drying, the outer edge of the book block must be cut off to align the sheets, make a flyleaf and glue the cover.

We cut the edge of the book without removing it from the press, placing a piece of plywood for rigidity.

I made the flyleaf, again, from what was at hand - from thick business card paper (where the business cards were printed) - 2 A4 sheets. It is possible from whatman paper.

Having folded the sheets of paper in half, I glued them like this: the first spread on one side in the first sheet of the book (and the second side is for gluing to the cover, we glue it a little later). I did the same with the last spread of the book.

What was printed on the business card went inside, so all this disgrace is not visible.

We wait a little while the glue dries, after which we glue the cover.

Glue the spine together with the first spread of the book to the cover.

After all these manipulations, I put the book under a large pile of other books for several hours.

Dried up! The book is ready!

The flyleaf stuck well, evenly.

The cover says a lot...

Actually it turned out pretty funny!

A book about forex trading, and on the cover there is an inscription: "Pioneer's library, personal happiness, etc ..."

Cover for many years...

I made books about a year and a half ago from the date of publication.

Now on the Internet I meet more better ways bindings of books, where sheets are printed with notebooks, and then sewn together with threads. And you can also do it yourself at home.

The article "" describes in more detail how to make such a binding. I recommend reading it too. It also tells about making a cover for a book.

As an option, thin books can be made with a soft cover and stitched all the sheets at once. I shot through books up to 30 sheets in 2 places with a construction stapler. It didn't turn out too bad either.

Good evening.

Finally, the hot weather drove me home and gave me some time to write the next topic.

Of course, the result will not look like a book at all. Unfortunately, I did not have any decent material at hand that could be inserted into softcover. But someone may be useful topics no less.

First, traditionally, a few words about fibers.

The fibers in office paper are arranged as shown in the photo. Why is it good? This is good because if we have a bunch of sheets, then when we sew them, our “book” will open and flip well, because the paper fibers will be located along the spine.

It should be noted that OpenOffice Writer has one very interesting feature (I would be very grateful if someone wrote in the comments if there is such a thing in MS Word). He knows how to set the fields mirrored. The picture will be clearer:

Thus, we can set the internal margins a little more than the external ones, because we will need them for stitching.

We will need:
1. The sheets themselves (I took a blank from my old training screw-up-not-scary-stitched block).
2. Jigsaw. You can take a hacksaw with a thin blade. But the jigsaw gives an even thinner and more accurate cut. However, a thick block will be difficult for them to cut.
3. The “two-wood-with-holes-fastened-two-bolts-with-wing-nuts” clamp familiar to you from the first article.
And, perhaps, there is no way to do without a clamp. Fortunately, all its components cost a penny.

Carefully collect our stack of sheets and clamp between pieces of wood. The stack should protrude 5-6 mm.

We take a jigsaw in our hands and saw. We need to make paired cuts in the form of a divided letter "V". AT this case I have about 60 sheets in my stack and I cut 3-4mm deep. If the stack is larger, then we cut a little deeper - by 4-5 mm (do not forget to set the internal margins a little more!). On the long side of an A4 sheet, 6 paired cuts will be enough.

Now we have a stack of kerf sheets. We take a kapron thread - it is thin and durable. Using the cuts as wedges, we tie the sheets into one block.

We coat the end with glue, make sure that the glue gets into the cuts. We clamp the block between the pieces of wood (do not forget to lay clean sheets so that the block does not stick to the press). We are waiting for it to dry. If necessary, trim the edges as described in the link above.

It turns out such a turn.

If it is too difficult, then take a sheet of drawing paper. In a familiar printing house, we ask you to make a scoring (punching a groove) according to the measurements from the article and glue the cover from whatman paper.

The maximum number of sheets that I stitched in this way is about 130. The block opens easily and is quite strong. Of course, if such a block is deliberately destroyed, then it will collapse. But it's very easy to read. I won’t talk about more sheets - I’m afraid to lie.

Good books for you, high-quality pdf "s and pleasant reading!

Nowadays, book lovers do not have to visit the library, sit in it for hours, take notes desired material. It is enough to make one click - and the desired book is already in front of your eyes. Fast and cheap. However, there are many reasons for transferring the electronic version of the book to paper. To whom the text is too small, who on the screen does not perceive it at all. And then it starts: the sheets change places, get lost, crumple ... What a pleasure it is to read, if it's a complete inconvenience. Don't rush to throw away your printouts - get your binding done in ten minutes. And the most favorite work can also be decorated with a chic leather cover.
Materials for work:
text printout - A4 format, 2 pages per back;
photo paper - 1 sheet;
PVA glue - 1 pencil;
old meat grinder - can be replaced special device;
kapron threads - 20 cm;
jigsaw blade - 1 pc.;
leather or its substitute - 35 x 40 cm;
sewing machine, wide stationery tape, a piece of medical bandage, gold paint, scissors, a brush.
Stages of work:

First stage: binding.
We take necessary tools and materials.

We make a printout of a “book” on A4 paper in text editor. On each sheet on both sides, 2 sheets of the future book are obtained. We bend the sheets in half, align. On both sides, we put short boards on the places of the folds of the sheets, we squeeze the future binding with a meat grinder.

With a jigsaw blade, we make transverse shallow cuts at a distance of several centimeters from each other.

Cut the thread according to the number of cuts. The length of each thread should be twice the height of the binding.

Thoroughly coat the cuts with PVA glue, filling them with voids.

We insert the threads into the cuts, leaving their ends free on both sides of the binding. We “drown” the threads in cuts. Let the glue dry, remove the meat grinder.

The second stage: we fix the binding.
We cut off a piece of medical bandage so that its length is enough for the length of the binding and for bends on both sides. From the paper we cut out a strip that completely coincides in length and width with the binding of the book.

We apply a thick layer of glue to the entire binding, on top of it - a bandage (with edges previously bent inward).

We apply glue to a strip of paper and smooth it to the binding over the bandage. Carefully smooth the entire surface of the strip.

On the upper part Apply glue to books.

We smooth the ends of the threads and the edges of the bandage, while stretching it in both directions from the binding. Dry the book in a standing position (cover upside down).

The third stage: blank for the cover.
We print on photo paper (or paste prepared clippings on it) pictures for the title and back of the book. The size of the blanks should be 0.5 cm narrower than the width of the book. We cut out a strip from photo paper that exactly matches the size of the binding (both in length and in width).

In order to make cutouts in the skin according to the size of the pictures, we make stencils from plain paper. If you need perfect accuracy in matching the lines, you can use tracing paper or make a translation by attaching a picture and a top leaf to the window glass.

The fourth stage: we work with a skin substitute.
For the cover, you can use genuine leather or its substitute. In this case, a substitute purchased at the "fabric" store is used.

We apply on the reverse side of the skin blanks of the cover and binding. Do not forget to make a distance between them, slightly larger in size than the reduced width of the cover (about 0.7 cm each). Outline the outlines with a pencil.

We put inverted blanks-stencils on the traced places. The main thing in this stage of work is not to confuse left and right. We circle the places of future cutouts.

Cut out the outlined lines.

Fifth stage: preparing the cover.
We glue the pictures on photographic paper with stationery tape so that they do not get dirty in the future. Adhesive tape is glued only on the front side of the sheet, not wrapping on the back.

We apply glue to the places free from the picture of the photo paper.

We combine the cutout of the skin and the picture.

Gently, without stretching, press the skin to the glue.

Along the edges of the cuts we make a machine line, fixing the skin.

Cut off the corners of the cover.

Today we will share with you the secret of how to make a book binding yourself. So, for starters, let's prepare the sheets right size. We will make a book of 48 sheets. Therefore, we need to prepare 24 sheets of paper by folding them in half. Therefore, we should have 2 stacks of 12 folded sheets.
The next step is to make holes in all of your sheets of paper.
In order to make sure the holes line up evenly, we made a template so we don't have to measure and mark each leaf individually.
Take a piece of paper the same length as your pages and fold it in half. Then mark 6 holes along the crease.
Take each of the stacks of prepared sheets, and place the template inside them, in the center of the fold.Using an awl, make a hole through the prepared template.This hole is used as a guide hole for stapling.
Now we need to sew the sheets. First one block of 12 sheets, then the second.

The next step is to stitch and glue your blocks. Using a soft brush, apply the adhesive along the entire spine of the sheets in generous amounts, making sure that the adhesive has penetrated the stitching points as well. And then remove the excess glue.
Leave sheets pinched or under light weight to dry.

Each book needs two spine bands, one for the top and one for the bottom of the book.Measure as many as you need depending on the breadth of your book and stick them with PVA glue.

For the cover of the pages, thick cardboard and fabric are used. We measure according to the size of our pages and cut it out. And for the “spine” of the book, we also cut out a separate part from cardboard.
Wrap well with cloth. And let it dry well for a few hours.

The last step is to put everything together. Both blocks of pages and the cover must be dry.
To attach them you need to apply a thin and even layer of adhesive on the front page of the booklet and on the last page of the booklet. Now carefully place the book on inside cover and press down with a heavy weight. You don't need to glue the spine of the book.
OK it's all over Now! The notebook is ready!

• two small flat boards;
• two clamps;
• strong white threads;
• gauze;
• PVA glue;
• scissors;
• glue brush;
• stationery knife.

Operating procedure

Spine design

We prepare gauze and special rollers for the spine. We cut the gauze so that its length is about 1 cm less than the length of the spine, and its width is about 4 cm more (2 cm on each side). In the same way, we cut out two rollers, but their width must exactly match the width of the spine. The edges of the rollers are carefully greased with glue.

Binding process

Cover design

Video on the topic of the article

Most interesting articles:

I would like to talk about two enough simple ways x binding magazines and books, as well as separate sheets from various magazines with articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, such book-bound magazines will make an excellent library. I am in the years of stagnation, when good books were in short supply, collected "fiction", published in the magazines "Technology of Youth" and "Ural Pathfinder", in which the stories and stories of interest to me were printed with sequels. The methods of binding that I want to offer here, I have not yet seen anywhere in the literature. Of course, I didn’t come up with them myself, but I spied on one specialist from the city of Priuralsk.

How to bind a book at home

Usually when binding individual sheets are stacked in which, stepping back from the edge of the spine, holes are punched, drilled or pierced, and then the sheets are sewn together using these holes. However, as a result of this technology, part of the text is difficult to read, especially on those sheets on which the text is located very close to the edge of the sheet from the side of the spine of the future book.

The book, formed from sheets using the technology proposed below, is to some extent spared from such a drawback. On the initial stage bookbinding works, in both cases, the same operations are carried out: the sheets are stacked, trimmed along the lower and leading edges, the upper edge can be trimmed later. After all, as you know, sheets even from the same magazine, but from different issues, usually do not match in format. Then the stack is compressed using a press, vice or clamp. The simplest option clamps are two even boards (two corners made of metal), bolted on both sides (Fig. 1). Clamp the stack (from the side of the spine) in a vise so that the narrowest sheet peeks out of the vise by about 5 mm (see Fig. 1). Then, the spine is cleaned with a large file, removing strongly protruding edges of the sheets, and then the transverse grooves are sawn through with a hacksaw or a jigsaw in the spine (the number of grooves is at your discretion) to a depth of 1.5 ... 2 mm. This is what main feature proposed binding technology. After all, if the sheets are punched or drilled at such a distance from the edge, then the threads threaded into the holes will inevitably break through the edges of the sheets. So you can place holes from the edge of the block at a distance of at least 1 ... 1.5 cm, which will certainly lead to a "capture" of the text.

Having made cuts, the block (package) is installed with the spine up. Next, the spine is smeared with PVA glue (or bustilate), diluted thinner, so that it penetrates into the gaps between the sheets, as well as into the cuts. Then, pieces of nylon or other strong thread are placed in the cuts so that the ends go beyond the spine by about 2 ... 3 cm (Fig. 2, a) or (as you like) the spine is pulled together with one long thread (Fig. 2, b). In conclusion, the entire spine is once again smeared with glue. When the glue dries, the ends of the threads are cut off and the block is made into a light cover, that is, they simply glue a thick paper cover to the spine and paste the endpapers. (Bookends are the first and also the last double sheets of the block, connecting it to the cover. - Editor's note.) Sheets will no longer pop out of such a book, as from cheap store-bought paperbacks. In a similar way, the aforementioned store books that have crumbled are also strengthened. But still, in both cases, it is better to make a hard cover instead of a soft cover.

When making a hard cover, a piece of fabric or gauze is glued onto the spine of the block using a polyvinyl acetate emulsion (Fig. 3), so that parts of a piece of fabric 2–3 cm wide extend beyond the side edges of the spine. braids with a roller on the edge (bright cloth patches folded in half are also suitable). However, you can capitalize and not do it. Next, cut out two cover covers from cardboard. The width of each cover must be equal to the width of the glued block. There are many different options making lids, but I want to offer the most, it seems to me, the simplest.

Having cut out the cardboard covers, I select a beautiful fabric, oilcloth, leader, etc. A blank of the book’s clothes is cut out of the binding material, not forgetting to provide 2 ... 3 cm allowances-fields from the top, bottom and front edges. The distance between the covers is equal to the spine width plus 2×8 mm (Fig. 4, a). Between the covers on a workpiece of material, you can glue a lag - a strip of thick paper or drawing paper (the width of the strip is equal to the width of the block). The lids are carefully coated with PVA and glued to the workpiece of clothes, smoothing well so that there are no bubbles. Then the edges of the workpiece are wrapped on the covers (Fig. 4, b), glued to them, and the finished cover is dried under pressure.

We are preparing two endpapers, each of which is bent in half White list paper. We glue one half of the sheet to the cover (Fig. 6), and the other to the outer sheet of the block, and the endpaper is not completely glued to the sheet, leaving a 1 cm wide strip adjacent to the endpaper fold without glue.

Everything, the binding is finished, and the book is placed under the press. Of course, I do not know professional terms, but it seems to me that I have stated everything clearly.

I also want to offer a notebook method of binding magazines. It is somewhat different from the traditional one, when holes are formed along the spine edges of the magazines, for example, with a hole punch, and the magazines are pulled together with a cord. It is clear that in this case part of the text is not always readable. My notebook method is free from this drawback, since the entire binding is made on the outside of the spine.

First, put all the magazines in a pile and mark the places of future punctures in the roots along the ruler (Fig. 7).

Then they take the last issue of the magazine and with a large needle, follow the marks, sew it through the middle, forming three or five stitches (Fig.

How to bind books at home with your own hands

8a). I note that with such firmware, the “native” metal clips of magazines can even be removed. The next magazine, laid on top, is stitched in the same way, but in the opposite direction. After each firmware, the thread is pulled, removing the backlash (slackness). Having finished the firmware of the second magazine, the thread (with a needle) is connected with the end of the thread protruding from the lower magazine (Fig. 8, b). It is clear that the third magazine is stitched similarly to the first, and at the end of the seam, its thread is tied to the thread of the seam of the second magazine, prying the first stitch of the seam of this magazine with a needle.

For strength, the threads of the seams of all magazines are knitted at the points of their entry and exit (see Fig. 7). In principle, such a binder can already be used. But it is better to clamp the stitched stack in a press (vise) and coat the spine with liquid PVA glue. After drying, a solid block is already obtained. And of course, it is better to make a hardcover for the stack, as described above. It is desirable to trim the edges, but if the magazines are the same, then you can not do this. And then without training, the cut will turn out to be a curve.

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There are many ways to fasten pages in multi-page printing products. Each of them is useful in certain cases. The following are the main ways of binding sheets of printed publications:

You can choose any of these methods for your catalog or brochure, magazine and inform the managers of the 03 Press printing house about your choice.

How to bind a book. Two easy ways to bind books and magazines at home

Binding machines on a plastic spring are designed to give documents a presentable look. You can quickly get a beautifully designed catalogue, brochure, manual, abstract or any other document. The technology of binding on a plastic spring allows you to withdraw or add sheets to the finished product.

Let's take a closer look at what the process of binding on a plastic spring looks like. Place the binder on a level surface. Prepare the document you want to bind (document itself + front transparent and back cardboard covers).

First you need to perforate the sheets - make holes for the binding.

The front and back covers should also be perforated.

Since you know approximately the number of sheets that you are going to bind, you can choose a plastic spring of the required diameter using this table.

Then put the spring on the metal comb

and you need to open (unclench) it.

There are two types of binding machines: with one handle, with its help and break through and open (close) the spring and with two separate handles for perforation and for opening (closing) the spring.

And so, if your typewriter has one handle. Take the recommended number of sheets for punching from the prepared document. Align the edges of the document. Set the perforation depth control (than more sheets in the document, the more indentation from the edge). Make a test punch to make sure the setting is correct. Next, place the sheets in the perforation slot, lower the perforation handle and return to its original position. Take out the sheets. And so perforate the entire document. Next, take the plastic spring. Dress on a metal comb. Open the spring and put perforated sheets on it. When the entire document is placed on the spring, close it by returning the punch/spring release knob to its original position. Remove the finished bound document. If you have two separate handles on your binding machine for perforating and opening (closing) the spring, you do everything the same, only you can open the spring initially and, as the sheets are perforated, immediately put them on the spring (two handles are more convenient).

We examined machines for binding (brochurers) - mechanical. There are also electric cars. On them, the principle of operation is the same, only the perforation is electric - by pressing a button or a foot pedal. Very convenient, no effort required.

Our company offers a wide range of transfer machines, as well as everything you need for binding: plastic springs and covers in color, size, thickness and diameter. We will select for every taste. Plastic springs are resilient and hold the sheets firmly. Documents with such binding are easy to read and easy to store.

Although the store shelves are littered with notebooks and notepads for any purpose, finding a truly unique thing is not easy. It is faster and more affordable to make a notebook with your own hands. It doesn't take long, and the result is a one-of-a-kind accessory for your recordings in the format you need. This article presents step-by-step master class making notebooks with tips and video tutorials.

DIY notebook making tools

To make a notebook or diary, first of all prepare paper for writing. Simple notebook sheets (in a cage, ruler) or landscape paper will do. To cut evenly for a small notebook a large number of sheets, use a utility knife. You will need the following tools and supplies:

• scissors;
• ruler;
• awl;
• thick needle and strong threads;
• stapler;
• glue, double-sided thin tape or adhesive tape;
• materials for the cover (base cardboard, colored cardboard, fabric);
• decorations (sets for scrapbooking).

How to make a workbook with your own hands?

Make a notebook with large quantity sheets (up to 10-12) can be done in 2 ways:

Stapling.

1. Necessary number of sheets neatly fold in half.
2. Open the pages in the middle, staple along the fold line.

Usually 2 staples are enough, but if the page length exceeds half an A4 sheet, put staples at a distance of 5-10 cm between them. The thicker and thicker the paper, the larger the staples should be.

Stitching.

1. Carefully fold the sheets in half.
2. Mark with a pencil several pairs of future stitching holes (the distance between the punctures is 1-3 cm).
3. Pierce holes with an awl at the marked points (make sure that the hole does not exceed the diameter of the sewing needle - 1-2 mm).
4. For thin paper, prepare a needle with a single thread, for thick paper - with a double thread. There is no need to make a knot at the end of the thread.
5. Sew the pages through the holes you made along the fold. simple seam“Needle forward”, starting the first stitch from the outside (leave the end of the thread hanging 5-10 cm).

   The ends of the thread after stitching should be on the outside of the notebook.

6. After everything is sewn, pull both ends of the thread and tie with a strong knot.

If you need a thick notebook with lots of pages, the usual one will do binding technique, which is performed in two ways:

• Make blank books (each of 3-5 sheets folded in half; the thicker the paper, the fewer sheets). All books are individually stitched with threads in the above way. The blanks are then sewn together or glued together.
• The method of simultaneous stitching of blank books and fastening them together with one continuous thread:

1. Sew the first blank from the bottom up.
2. Without cutting the thread and without tying a knot, go to the second blank, only you will be sewing it from top to bottom, grabbing the outer stitches of the first booklet with a needle along the seam.
3. Having reached the bottom, proceed to the third blank, sewing it like the first (from the bottom up), while grabbing the stitches of the second booklet. When finished, move on to the next piece.
4. When sewing, pull the thread harder so that the pages do not hang out, and the books fit snugly together.
5. After sewing the last workpiece, fasten the ends of the thread together with a knot.

If you take not white sheets, but colored ones, you get an original notebook with multi-colored sections. You can also experiment with the texture and thickness of the paper. At the end of the work, check that the edges of the resulting book are even. It is most convenient to cut the curved edge with a clerical knife along the ruler.

How to make a cover for a notebook?

Stapled pages will look unfinished if not bound. For a thin notebook or ready-made paper block bound with a spiral, cut out two sheets of colored cardboard that fit. The cardboard is glued to the first and last pages of the book with glue or double-sided adhesive tape, then decorated.

For the cover of a thick notebook with a wide spine, you need:

1. Make 3 base blanks: front and back covers (cut out of thick cardboard to fit the notebook), a cardboard piece for the spine of the appropriate size.
2. Glue all 3 blanks onto one large piece of colored cardboard (fabric or other material that will be the cover) with strong glue or double-sided tape. Bend the edges and corners of the cover material inward and glue it to the base cardboard.
3. Glue the first and last pages of the made notebook to the inside of the cover. As a result, the cardboard base must be completely hidden (from the outside - by the cover material, from the inside - by the outer pages of the notebook).
4. We put the finished notebook with the cover under the press for the night, then decorate. The design of the cover is only limited by your imagination. Use improvised materials: colored paper of different textures, lace, fabrics, threads, beads, rhinestones, etc.

Video tutorials on creating a notebook at home

After watching a selection of the presented videos, you will learn how to make any notebook with your own hands. Such an activity is not expensive in terms of money and is available even to children, because. does not require complicated steps. And the exclusive handmade cover will turn a purchased notebook into original item and makes a great gift for any occasion.

How to make a beautiful notebook with a cover

From A4 sheets

Book for dolls Monster High

Do-it-yourself bookbinding: step-by-step instructions for beginners

Self-production of books, albums and hardcover notebooks is not the most common activity. However, bookbinding skills can come in handy, for example, if you want to save and arrange a printed book. We suggest trying to make a classic book binding with your own hands according to the step-by-step instructions below.

Necessary materials and tools

• two small flat boards;
• two clamps;
• thin file for metal work;
• strong white threads;
• gauze;
• cardboard high density(you can use thin cardboard glued in 2-3 layers);
• roller for the book spine (you can use braid instead);
• colored thick paper for cover design;
• PVA glue;
• scissors;
• glue brush;
• stationery knife.

Operating procedure

Books are sewn and glued. Self-flashing a book is a very time-consuming task to do at home. Therefore, we offer a master class on making binding for a glued book.

We print on the printer the book that we plan to bind. We align the resulting stack of paper along the edge, gently tapping its ends on a flat table surface. It is necessary to approach the process with maximum responsibility, since it will depend on appearance future book.

Spine design

We carefully place a stack of paper on the table with the spine facing us so that the edge of the stack protrudes slightly beyond the borders of the tabletop, and put a fairly heavy load on top. Using a brush, thickly apply PVA glue to the surface and leave to dry for a couple of minutes. Then we remove the load and move the stack of sheets a little further from the edge of the table. From above, very carefully put the board and clamp the resulting structure with clamps.

After 3-4 hours, remove the clamps and again shift the stack of sheets together with the board so that they go beyond the table surface by about 2-3 mm. Using a pencil, we make transverse marks on the end of the stack of sheets at regular intervals (in our case, 2 cm). Then, according to the marks obtained, using a metal file, we make cuts with a depth of about 1 mm. It is necessary to ensure that they are strictly perpendicular to the sheets of paper.

We prepare gauze and special rollers for the spine. We cut the gauze so that its length is about 1 cm less than the length of the spine, and its width is about 4 cm more (2 cm on each side). In the same way, we cut out two rollers, but their width must exactly match the width of the spine.

The edges of the rollers are carefully greased with glue.

Similarly, we make a blank of a strip of paper that will be glued to the spine. Its width should be equal to the width of the spine, and the length should be 7-8 mm less.

Binding process

We generously grease the spine of the book with PVA so that the glue gets into each cut made. We insert threads moistened with glue into the cuts so that their ends stick out 2-3 cm on each side. Lubricate the spine with threads again with glue and fix the gauze blank on top, then the rollers and lastly the strip of paper, pressing each layer as tightly as possible with your fingers. The resulting structure is left to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the glue dries, remove the clamps, cut off the excess parts of the ropes.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of endpapers. We will make them from thick paper such as whatman paper (white or color). We make blanks in the size of a future book. The outer edge of the endpaper needs to be trimmed a little so that it is convenient to glue it.

We glue the strip at the fold (about 3-4 mm) with glue and stick the endpaper on the block of sheets. Then we turn the blank of the book and the same way glue another flyleaf. We put the structure under pressure for a while.

Cover design

We cut out three parts from cardboard: a spine and two crusts. The crusts should be 8 mm longer than the glued book blank, and equal in width to it. The spine should be equal in height to the crusts, and in width to the thickness of the block.

Then we select paper of a suitable color and draw blanks as follows:

• the width of one part is equal to the width of the spine + 8 mm on both sides;
• the width of the other two parts is equal to the width of the crusts + 2-3 cm on both sides.

We glue the resulting structure and cut the corners diagonally. We coat the edges of the paper with PVA, bend and glue them to the cardboard, especially carefully pressing the corners of the cover.

To design the cover, you can use a ready-made dust jacket, apply an inscription using a stencil, or print and stick paper with necessary information at your discretion. A technology such as scrapbooking is widely used in the design of book covers: decorating products with cut-out or cut-out decorative elements, paper with an unusual ornament and openwork edges.

We glue indoor unit and cover. We first try on both parts and only after that we begin to glue. A mistake made at this stage will be almost impossible to correct.

Lubricate one edge of the gauze with glue and press it to the surface of the endpaper. Then we smear PVA on the entire flyleaf with gauze. We turn the book over with the smeared endpaper down and mount the endpaper to the cover, starting from its edges. Lubricate the gauze on the upper side with glue and glue it to the endpaper, then smear the second endpaper as a whole and glue it in the same way. In order to prevent excess glue from staining the book, it should be lined with unnecessary paper. bigger size. When gluing each workpiece, care must be taken not to form air bubbles and wrinkles.

The binding of the book is ready! After manufacturing, it is advisable to put the book under the press for the night.

The binding process is greatly simplified if the parts are glued using hot melt adhesive. In this case, you need to purchase a special machine for thermal binding and the actual hot melt adhesive. All cut blanks (cover, book spine and endpapers), together with the printed block of paper, are inserted into the machine and crimped with it. The cover is then glued on by hand. However, if you do not plan to constantly work with book products, buying a typewriter will not be appropriate.

Video on the topic of the article

For those who have mastered the classic binding of books with their own hands and want to continue working with books, the following videos are offered with detailed lessons bookbinding business.