Rules for digging soil, when and how to dig soil at the dacha. Plowing the land before the start of winter

Garden equipment 04.03.2020

Garden equipment

A. GOLOVIY.

Science and life // Illustrations

Squeak's bayonet shovel.

Comparative diagram of working with a shovel (the handle of a bayonet shovel is conventionally rotated).

Spring is coming - a busy time for gardeners and gardeners. Time does not wait, and from morning to evening on a day off you have to wield a shovel, hoe, and rake. Often the consequence of such spring intensity is lower back pain and calluses on the hands. Meanwhile, many unpleasant consequences can be avoided by improving ordinary garden tools and properly organizing work. Not by digging, for example, beds for carrots and tomatoes on the same day, but by preparing them in the order in which the crops are planted or sown.

In various manuals regarding gardening and personal plots, the agronomic side of the matter is widely presented: timing, seeding rates, planting depth, row spacing, watering, fertilizer. And, so to speak, the mechanical and technical aspects of the matter are very compressed or completely absent. The manuals, limiting themselves to the words “sprout and sow,” say very little about what tools and how to perform certain jobs, how to use the tool in order to get less tired, in what sequence to perform operations, how, using the simplest devices, to do markings for seeds and seedlings in the beds. But due to neglect of markings, when the rows in the beds turn out, as they say, at random, the plants develop worse. Some suffer from excessive density, others from weeds that grow quickly and vigorously in rows that are too wide.

In this regard, I will share my experience on how to cultivate a plot of land, saving energy and time, and how to plant and sow it quickly and accurately.

Light, crumbly soil, such as sandy loam, is best dug with a regular shovel with a blade sharpened and polished with sandpaper. For the cutting, dry birch treated with emery cloth is suitable. The handle has a convenient shape: at the bottom it is conical, at the top it becomes cylindrical. With such a handle, the hand will get less tired, the palm will slide in any direction, and the hand will take the most comfortable position.

A handle with a grip is more suitable for those who do not have very strong fingers, but digging with such a shovel is less convenient. While turning over a lump of earth with it, you will have to rotate your right hand. An almost straight blade of a shovel goes into the ground more difficult than a rounded one. The foot, sending a straight blade into the ground, does not yet have time to “gain speed”, but the entire edge of the blade is already cutting the ground. The pointed blade enters the ground as if synchronously with the increase in load from the foot.

It is better to take loamy dense soil not with a bayonet shovel, but with a pitchfork. The width of their four teeth is much smaller than the blade of a shovel, so the forks penetrate the soil more easily. Digger forks, unlike conventional forks, have more powerful and shorter teeth. Diggers are easier to lift heavy clay soil than a shovel. Pitchforks are indispensable in early spring and in the fall, when wet soil sticks to the shovel blade. When purchasing, pay attention to the cross-section of the teeth. Forged and more durable forks, unlike stamped forks, have a cross-section that resembles a trapezoid.

The pitchfork does not cut off a clod of earth, but breaks it off. The roots that have fallen into the crack are removed entirely with a pitchfork, unlike a shovel, which cuts the root into two parts, and it is often lost between clods of earth.

Using the teeth of a fork is much easier and faster than using a shovel to break large clods of earth - four rods are involved in the destruction at once.

It’s easy to thread weed rhizomes onto a fork, just like a fork. All that remains is to shake the lump so that the earth crumbles and throw the roots outside the garden bed. A shovel will not work for this, and you will have to take each root with your hands.

When the area is horizontal, it doesn't matter where you throw the soil. If there is a slope, then they get rid of it by creating terraces. Then moving the soil is combined with digging up the beds.

Having chosen the direction of the throws, dig around the perimeter of the area so that later you are not distracted by the design of its border and do not end up in a place where you do not plan to dig.

Start using a shovel or pitchfork from the lowest place on a strip 60-80 cm wide. Position yourself at the edge of the bed, bending over (40-50 degrees). Standing still, changing only the tilt of the body, you can remove 3-4 lumps of earth. Then, having stepped 6-8 cm, proceed to the next portion. total length The distance covered in this way will be about 140 meters when digging up one hundred square meters.

If you don’t dig in stripes, but move 20-25 cm after removing each bayonet, the length of the path when digging up a hundred square meters will be about 1000 meters.

If a shovel or fork penetrates the soil easily, try not to use your feet to reduce bending and straightening. Approximately 6000-7000 such movements are made to dig up one hundred square meters. Do not try to grab, turn over and throw a large lump, for example 15-20 cm thick. It is wiser to load the muscles with more frequent, but less sweeping movements. Due to the desire to dig the soil deeper, a so-called subsoil layer that does not contain humus may appear on the surface, which will damage fertility. For most vegetable crops, it is enough to dig the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm.

Level the earthen surface with a rake whose teeth are spaced 4-5 cm apart. The length of the rake is needed at least 1.7-2 m so as not to bend too much and reach remote areas without stepping on dug up areas. To make it easier and more convenient to operate the rake, bend the end of the handle down. Then, while working, you won’t have to squeeze the handle too tightly with your fingers to prevent it from slipping.

For the handle of the rake, a branch of hazel or hazel, curved at the bottom, is suitable. Hazel stems are best harvested from November to March, removing the bark before drying.

If there is no suitable shaft for the handle, use a prefabricated structure with a bent piece of steel tubing. As a last resort, shape the straight handle into a pear shape using a knife, rasp and coarse sandpaper (right).

When the width of the next dug strip is approximately equal to the length of the rake handle, put aside the shovel or fork and start leveling the surface and crushing large lumps. Crush large lumps, especially with a large amount of clay, without waiting, especially in sunny, hot weather, for them to dry out. Combine hoeing and digging to give your muscles a rest.

Ideas for the master

CONVENIENT SHOVEL

I had the opportunity to work with different shovels - construction, gardening, loading and unloading. The magazine wrote about different shovels more than once (see "Science and Life" No. 7 1974, No. 3 1984, No. 6 1988, No. 11 1989) I tried to use a tool made according to the recommendations of the respected American professor Mittlider (see " Science and Life" No. 3, 1995). All of these shovels have a significant flaw: the handle is connected to the blade in the center, but this is where it is best to press the shovel with your foot so that it easily enters the ground. Therefore, with the current digging tools, a significant part of the effort is wasted. When lifting a layer or clod of earth, you have to hold the handle with your hand at a fairly large distance from the canvas, because of this the load on the hand increases.

I had little strength left, so, according to the Russian proverb, “Trouble gives birth to intelligence,” I had to improve the instrument. I cut off a crown from the blade of a pointed shovel - the part intended to connect to the handle. By the way, in factories this part is usually made shorter than standard sizes, and therefore the handle most often breaks near the crown. I made a vest of the required length and connected it with a steel strip 45 by 4 mm by welding with a shovel blade. I sharpened the strip at the bottom. The shovel handle was made from a young pine tree. It is conical, thickened at the bottom (like growing trees), in contrast to the cylindrical and fragile store-bought cuttings. I attached a fork handle to the top of the handle.

Now, in order for the shovel to go into the ground, I place my foot in the center and spend much less energy. The sharpened connecting strip cuts the ground. When lifting a clod of earth, the stalk seems to lengthen due to the cranked structure. The hand is either higher than the usual gripping point or closer to the canvas, which also reduces the cost of effort. Using a fork handle, I turn the canvas on its side to release the lump. A shovel is convenient not only for digging, but also for cutting weeds. The main thing is that you don’t have to bend over backwards. The solution is also suitable for forks, which are often used when digging.

L. PISCUN (St. Petersburg).

For the vast majority of my friends, the idea of “not digging” sounds completely outlandish. But to be honest, my husband (also of the old agrotechnical variety) looks at the undug beds with pain and longing. Although everything grows and bears fruit beautifully on them. Therefore, in the spring, I allow him to dig up something, so as not to radically change his worldview. We are gradually learning: sudden changes in habits are not for everyone. In this article I will share my experience of farming without constant digging, and perhaps you will want to make your life on the ground easier by giving up a shovel.

Content:

Fenced beds are the first stage on the path to the transition to a garden “without a shovel”

My farming system does not provide for a radical abandonment of the shovel - where would I be without it? I just strive to reduce labor costs and “abuse” of the soil. As my biologist friend says, bare earth is nonsense!

I will not describe all the options that I tried on the way to “liberation” from the shovel, since it was long, laborious, and densely strewn with ridicule from conservative loved ones.

But here is the beginning, the impetus, I think it should be noted - the fenced beds.

In the Khabarovsk Territory, where my independent gardening began, fenced beds are the norm, except, of course, for potato fields. For me, who grew up in a village near Moscow and was brought up on beds formed in even rectangles (dad’s work), on a clean plot without a single weed (my mother and my sister), the sight of beds fenced with boards with grass between them was wild, not aesthetic and completely unacceptable. At first.

Then it turned out that it was convenient and practical:

significantly less processing (which, given a normal 8-hour working day, having a family and a home, is a significant plus);
there is less dirt that beloved relatives drag into the house, since grass is not bare earth, does not generate dust in the heat and does not stick in clumps in the rain;
convenient to water - the sides prevent water from spreading;
in spring, a fenced garden bed warms up faster;
It’s also convenient to cover such a bed: throw spunbond over the seedlings - and there’s a greenhouse;
and a bonus for dog owners - it’s much easier to train your dog not to run around the garden beds. Because it is much more convenient to move along a grass path between beds than on rough terrain. True, this trick doesn’t work with cats.

This was the first step towards reducing digging. And the theoretical justification was found in Sergei Dubinin’s brochure “Harvest Box-Bed.” But I didn’t like his soil preparation technology - it was too labor-intensive.

At first, the sight of ridges fenced with boards with grass between them was wild and not aesthetically pleasing to me. © Nikolina Tatyana

All weeds, plant and kitchen waste - into the garden and beds!

The engine of further progress, as usual, was laziness. Organization compost heap somehow it didn’t work out: folding, watering, stirring - it’s such a hassle! And all the weeded and mown grass went first to raspberries, honeysuckle, and currants. With a layer of kitchen waste.

The berries became larger, the bushes were healthier, and the fishing worms, to the delight of my husband, sharply increased their demographic indicators. The next year, grass and weeds, of which there was no shortage, went into the beds, under potatoes, under strawberries. The plants liked it, and so did I - the number of weeds decreased, only malicious ones made their way through the layer of grass.

After that, I decided to take another drastic step, which caused a stormy protest from my husband: refusal to hill potatoes. The second hilling (he survived the first) was replaced with a thick layer of grass mulch. The harvest turned out to be no worse, but there was significantly less work. A bonus for all mulched plants was the reduction in watering - under grass mulch, moisture is retained longer, and dew also condenses in the morning.

How can you grow everything you need and want on 4 acres?

And then a fateful meeting happened in my life: out of a passion for floriculture, I was introduced to an amazing woman who managed to grow everything she needed and everything she wanted on the 4 acres she had available.

I would never have believed that this could happen, but she invited me to her place, and I saw everything with my own eyes and heard everything with my own ears.

She only digs holes in the ground for planting large seedlings. For everything else, he simply rakes it with his hands - throws potatoes in there, arranges dahlia tubers, small sections of perennials, bulbs, seeds, sprinkles them, waters them and waits for the result. There is no bare land! Unoccupied - only narrow paths covered with cardboard.

Potatoes and cabbage grow beautifully under dahlia bushes (more than two dozen varieties), garden strawberries occupies all the space under apple and currant trees. There is a small patch of strawberries in the open space, but it turns out that daffodils and tulips grow there (this was not visible in August).

Carrots grow with onions, beets are planted singly everywhere, peas and beans trudge along the fruit-bearing bushes. Pumpkins hang on the fence. Cucumbers and tomatoes are in the greenhouse, mixed with melons and watermelons. Tall tomatoes are also on supports, next to raspberries.

Perennials grow and bloom under the bushes. Grapes, lemongrass, actinidia - near the walls of the house and garage do not bother anyone. At the same time, one hundred square meters is given over to flowers: roses, daylilies, lilies, aquilegias, astilbes, asters, begonias, pyrethrums, bells, gladioli, phlox, geraniums...

She supplied me with planting material for the next few years before we moved - thanks to her! And I, along with my own acquisitions, densely planted all the free space on my 8 acres. At the same time, every year she tests new products and all sorts of exotic things. At home too - everything is in plants, but this is a separate topic.

Its cultivation technology: in spring and autumn, the entire area, except for the paths, is covered with hay, or straw, or soybean meal. During the summer, all pulled weeds are stored here. All the tops and all the kitchen waste fermented with Baikal-EM remain here. I listened to a whole lecture about this drug and was very impressed. As the excursion progressed, I tried everything ripened and became even more enamored.

Now I was ready NOT TO DIGGING! But the husband was not ready, and, most importantly, the land was not ready.

Heavy loam that dries out in the heat to a stone state. I remember once, at the beginning of my gardening career, I was digging a piece of land for potatoes (my husband was away), where dogs played in the spring (they trampled them, of course). The complete impression is that you are digging asphalt.

For several years, I improved the soil structure by mulching with grass and weeds and watering with Baikal-EM solution. I managed to give up hilling potatoes completely. From digging up beds for everything that is planted with seedlings - too. They also stopped feeding with manure and mineral fertilizers.

We also began the development of our new site in Kuban with fenced beds. © Nikolina Tatyana

"Baikal-EM" and mowed grass allowed us not to dig our new site

And then we moved to Kuban, to the foothills of the Caucasus. We bought a house with almost 17 acres of land and started all over again. Almost everything, even young orchard- were here.

The soil is heavy red (and in some places blue) clay with a thin layer of alluvial forest soil (washed away from the surrounding mountains). The soil is slightly acidic, judging by the growing plants. Great amount all subsoil living creatures - moles, shrews, voles. I think they are very active - such soil to dig!

In the spring, my husband dug up the potato plot out of habit. And several beds for vegetables too. They fenced it off right away.

It was a test run. Unsuccessful. The root crop harvest has grown very poorly.

But tomatoes, planted with seedlings in holes and covered with grass, bore fruit remarkably well until the fall.

I don’t remember how I came across articles by N.I. Kurdyumov, a remarkable Kuban popularizer of rational agriculture. He writes a lot, interestingly, with humor and very useful. I read " Smart vegetable garden”, I drew conclusions and in the fall we began to make a place for melons.

We fenced an area of 3.5 m by 2.5 m, covered the previously mowed area with cardboard (we bought furniture - there was a lot left), and filled it with mowed grass. For pumpkins, simply cover the mowed area with grass. There are no problems with the grass here; it grows by leaps and bounds, except during dry periods. Almost 17 acres of our own, a neighboring abandoned plot, an area behind the fence - just have time to mow!

I soaked all the grass well with the Baikal-EM infusion; it was still warm enough for the development of microorganisms.

Lyrical digression: “Baikal-EM” does not have to be purchased anew each time, one purchase is enough. And then there’s the conveyor belt: dilute the old, or fermented, jam or compote with water, add the drug according to the recommendation on the label, close the lid loosely, and let it ferment. After 3-4 days, pour the infusion into food waste, leaving 10th part, and pour compote again. Food waste with the drug - under the grass heaps.

During the mild winter here, we made a greenhouse in the same way, only we fenced it higher, a bed for sweet potatoes, a bed for root vegetables. In addition to grass, leaves, nut shells, kitchen waste, and sawdust were sent there. They also covered the potato area and previously dug beds with all sorts of organic matter.

In the spring, when the drainage ditch was cleared, the excavated soil was poured into the greenhouse and under the potatoes.

In the beds for sweet potatoes and root vegetables, I raked rotted leaves with shells from hazel trees on a nearby abandoned plot. And again - foliage, mown grass, "Baikal-EM".

In the spring, we had to urgently make beds for the ordered strawberries. We ran out of boards for fencing, so I laid down cardboard, hauled stones from the river, lined the perimeter, covered it again with rotted leaves and hazel shells, added a little earth, enlarging the drainage ditch.

Planting in such beds is very simple: you rake up the grass and leaves, put in the potatoes, and fall asleep. You rake up the grass and leaves, plant seedlings, and go to sleep.

It's more difficult with seeds. But here the moles helped. It’s not for nothing that they do such titanic work! I poured the soil from the molehills into rows onto the beds and planted the seeds there. After the seedlings appeared, the grass was again laid around the small plants. And so on continuously as the grass is mowed and the plants grow. In the summer, kitchen waste goes entirely to pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons and melons.

The foliage of the potatoes this year began to turn yellow already at the beginning of July - there were 2 rains in two months. Watered once. We just rake the grass and choose dry, clean tubers. I leave the bush and small potatoes - let them grow further.

Eggplants and tomatoes, even if they lie on the grass, do not rot - it is dry on top.

Well, and finally, about the flower beds: I dig holes, plant the plants, cover them with grass, lay down cardboard, more grass and pine cones on top (there is a pine tree on the site that supplies them regularly).

In the summer we dig young potatoes like this: we simply rake the grass and select dry, clean tubers, leave the bush and small potatoes - they grow further. © Nikolina Tatyana

The soil must be alive!

I don’t like what I see when passing by neighboring plots: bare, dry, cracked soil in places, requiring daily watering, and, most importantly, NON-LIVING!

Fertility is created by soil microorganisms that need warmth, moisture, organic matter for processing and protection in the form of living and non-living vegetation. And in direct sun they simply die. It is the soil microorganisms that will convert nutrients from organic matter into a form accessible to plants and make additional fertilizing unnecessary. We must care for and cherish our tiny helpers!

The soil under our feet is full of life, it is permeated with plant roots, passages of soil inhabitants, and is saturated with microorganisms. It all got along and became stable, and we took them to the surface with a shovel! The whole structure has been damaged, it is necessary to regularly water, loosen, and feed.

I think that nature has developed much more over the millennia effective method ensuring fertility than mechanical processing methods. Maybe it's better to learn from her?

Digging up a garden seems like a simple matter... But, as always, it’s not that simple. Questions arise: when is it better to dig up a garden in the fall or spring? When should digging be done? What if you don’t dig the beds at all?

After digging up the soil, its fertility increases. This is especially noticeable after digging up clayey and uncultivated soil overgrown with grass. If the soil in the garden is sandy, loose, dries quickly and allows air to pass through well, then complete digging will not have a noticeable effect. In this case, it is enough to destroy the surface crust with a rake or shovel. The main task of digging is to eliminate weeds and pests. In addition, sometimes digging is required in order to fertilize the soil as efficiently as possible.

Advantages of digging up soil in the garden:

harmful microorganisms are destroyed from the surface of the beds;
the soil becomes loose, which promotes the activation of special bacteria that saturate the soil structure with nitrogen;
the roots of weeds freeze, the volume of weeds in the area decreases, because their seeds go deeper into the ground during digging and cannot germinate until spring;
the soil that reaches the surface from the depths contains a large amount of minerals and nutrients that future crops need;
in the process of digging the earth, compost and other substances are introduced into the soil, enriching it with beneficial bacteria;
ventilation of soil layers occurs;
weeds move to the lower layers, rot and serve as additional fertilizer;
adult individuals and larvae of pests living under the surface of the soil, when it turns over, find themselves outside and die from exposure external factors(wind, sun, birds, etc.);
During a drought, digging up the area helps preserve moisture;
if there are trees on the territory, then the foliage from them gets into the soil during digging, after which it rots and saturates it useful substances and minerals.

In addition, digging up the soil allows you to prepare the soil for planting crops.

However, this type of processing has disadvantages:

Digging is hard physical work.
When the soil layers are turned over, the pests in them change places. The soil contains spiders, microbes, and worms. Each species prefers to live at its own depth. When the environment changes, many living organisms die, which can negatively affect fertility. This is especially harmful to the soil if you dig beds not only in autumn or spring, but also at other times of the year.

Experts note that the elimination beneficial organisms is the most significant disadvantage of digging up soil in the garden, so in some cases it is undesirable to resort to processing. For example, a plot of potatoes should not be dug up, because when growing this crop it is thoroughly hilled and weeded.

When is the best time to dig up a vegetable garden - timing

Experienced gardeners note that digging up soil in the garden autumn period much healthier than in the spring. With this procedure you can quickly get rid of many problems. This is especially true in regions with dry soil.

This technique is called “fall plowing”. After it, the overturned weeds freeze and die. If you dig up your garden in the spring, the weeds may germinate again. Therefore, it is recommended to dig up the soil in the fall every year. This will allow you to achieve maximum results.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the timing of processing the site in the fall. The timing for this may vary in different regions. It all depends on weather conditions. The general approach is this: you need to dig up the ground as late as possible in the fall, before the first heavy rains and frosts.

After harvesting, you need to chop the tops, distribute them in an even layer on the surface of the soil and dig up the soil manually or using a special tool () or equipment (motoblock). It is recommended to schedule the procedure for October-November as long as the temperature outside is above 0°C.

Digging the soil in the garden in the spring will have a beneficial effect on the yield of vegetables, as it becomes loose and saturated with oxygen. The time it takes to dig up the soil in the spring also depends on the weather conditions of a particular region. You need to dig up the soil in the spring no later than a week before planting vegetables in the garden. Unlike in autumn, in spring you can dig up the soil in the garden shallowly (up to 10cm).

How to properly dig up soil in a garden

A small vegetable garden can be loosened using a miniature plow. The advantage of such digging is that the fertile layers are not significantly damaged. However, manual plowing requires considerable physical effort.

To save effort and time when digging the soil in the garden, you need to follow the following digging rules.

First of all, make sure that the soil is sufficiently dry. If the soil is too wet or wet, you will waste a lot of effort and energy.

The readiness of the soil for cultivation can be determined in the following way. Take a lump of earth and throw it down from a height of one and a half meters. It should crumble. If instead it sticks to the soil, then it is not yet ready to be dug.

Then you need to pick good tool. The handle of the shovel should be smooth and durable, with a polished finish and a V-shaped or T-shaped handle at the end. The bayonet blade of the shovel must be carefully sharpened - then you can quickly dig up the garden without any problems. The length of the shovel should correspond to your height, i.e. be 10 cm below shoulder level.

You need to protect your hands from splinters and calluses using gloves with rubberized palms. You should also use closed shoes with thick soles so as not to cause pain to your heels when you press your foot on the tool. Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to quickly dig up your garden.

The shovel must be placed vertically so that its bayonet blade is directed towards the ground. Then you need to press on the bayonet tray, holding the handle firmly with both hands. The depth of the dig depends on its type.

The bayonet and shovel must be perpendicular to the surface of the earth, because at an angle it will not be possible to dig up the soil to the optimal depth. When digging the ground, it is advisable to adhere to an average pace of work.

If you give preference mechanical method digging garden plot or vegetable garden, this can be done using a walk-behind tractor. Modern models units allow you to adjust the depth and intensity of plowing depending on the goal.

When using a mechanical device, you should not turn over soil layers deeper than 25 cm. Otherwise, you can harm the soil by destroying beneficial bacteria in it. Today, miniature tractors with rotary plows are used to dig up soil. With their help, you can quickly and efficiently process the area without destroying the lower soil layers.

In our country, owning a plot of land is a hobby, income, and sometimes a means of survival. You can actually grow organic food on it, and this is very important these days. But as a rule, the harvest begins with properly digging up the area for planting. Not everyone and not everywhere has the opportunity to hire equipment for this, and often a shovel or fork is the only tool that will help you with this. What if your plot is virgin land? Is it possible to dig it up yourself and not injure your health? These are the options for shovels for different soils that we will now discuss.

Choosing the right tool

If you want to know how to quickly dig up a garden, then thanks to this article you can find a lot of interesting things. Fortunately, our land on the Kulibins has not yet become impoverished; they are constantly inventing simple improvements for shovels or forks, with the help of which digging up the earth becomes not such a labor-intensive task for health.

Pitchfork.

For digging purposes, as a rule, forks are used - digging forks; they have shorter teeth and are forged. In addition, after the fork there are no large lumps of earth left that still need to be broken up. And part of the soil passes through their teeth and there will be no need to lift excess soil. Many new models have been invented based on forks, with which digging will be possible even for pensioners or people with disabilities.

For clay or damp soils, a pitchfork is just what you need. Excess soil will not stick to them, and it will be much easier to simply stick them into such soils. If the area is heavily overgrown, it is also better to choose a pitchfork for digging. They will go into the ground much easier, and the weeds will be pulled out along with the roots, rather than cutting them off like shovels. From the remains of these roots a new weed will certainly grow. And the pitchfork will remove it, as they say, “by the roots.”

When deep, two-tier digging with loosening the lower layers of the earth, a pitchfork is also indispensable. And yet simple pitchforks are good for small areas or in hard-to-reach corners, but for large spaces many devices based on them were invented, which we will talk about below.

Shovels.

Now we’ll learn how to quickly dig up a garden with a shovel. For better penetration into the soil, especially virgin soil, regular sharpening is required. And besides digging, a shovel will serve you when digging holes or ditches. But still, as a rule, after shoveling, you will need to further process the area with a pitchfork. And the most reliable option shovels - titanium, especially on clay, virgin or rocky soils.

For a properly selected shovel, for minimal effort on your part, the handle should reach your elbow when the blade is immersed 20-25 cm into the ground. There are shovels with a special grip; it will be convenient especially for those people who have weak fingers. It is easier to dig with a rounded blade; it penetrates the ground better than a straight blade.

"Mole" is a miracle - a shovel.

It was the desire to ease the hard work of digging the earth that led to the emergence of large quantity various devices based on ordinary shovels or forks, there are even hybrid models. The mole is precisely one of these new phenomena in plot cultivation.

It consists of two counter forks with a width of 43-55 cm and a number of teeth of 6-9. The working (moving) teeth are attached to a frame on which the second teeth are made motionless (according to the principle of jaw operation). And a foot rest is also attached to the bed for ease of work.

So, you tilt the handle first towards you, and then down.

During the second movement, the movable forks are driven through the second layer of soil, while it is loosened and freed from weeds. When properly dug, the layers of earth do not mix with each other. This is exactly what happens when working as a Mole - upper layer the soil does not move anywhere, but at the same time it loosens well.

The Mole itself weighs about 4.5 kg, but you won’t feel this weight while working, nor will you feel a significant load on your back. This miracle - you can simply drag this shovel around the site without lifting it. But precisely because of its weight, it simplifies the insertion of a working tool into the soil.

By saving energy, you can increase the area of the excavated area. With such a shovel, it is quite possible to cultivate 1-2 acres of land in 1 hour, and at the same time practically not get tired. For women or elderly summer residents, such a shovel is simply a godsend.

But this option is good for digging up already cultivated flower beds or beds; it is not entirely suitable for virgin soil. It will also not be very convenient in a greenhouse; its handle is still a bit high.

Ripper Excavator.

The Zemlekop also retains the principle of double forks. But he also has differences from Mole:

2 handles are connected into one on the handle.
The footrest has been increased, which has increased the area being processed.
the counter forks are fastened with a hinge and both are movable; there is simply no fixed frame.

In general, the principle of operation of the Excavator is almost identical to the work of the Mole. But due to the wider working part, it is great for large areas, for example, under a potato plantation, but for narrow beds It won't be very convenient.

Shovel Tornado.

Another variety of Mole with a similar operating principle. Besides the shovel, this trademark produces quite a few gardening tools.

For example, the Tornado ripper, it is already quite famous among gardeners. This is a long pin with rounded handles on one end and sharp teeth on the other that twist clockwise.

It perfectly loosens the soil to a depth of 20 cm. And the handle can be adjusted to any height of the person working with it.

It is quite compact, which gives it advantages in small or inconvenient areas, under trees or bushes, while in large spaces it is better not to use it.

Miracle - rotating forks.

We can say that this is a more advanced version from Tornado. The handle is the same T-shaped, which is also adjustable to suit any height. But at the bottom there are forks attached to the handle, they are stuck into the ground and the handle is turned like a lever. When working with it, your back and legs practically do not get tired, but on heavy or rocky soil it will be completely uncomfortable to work with it.

Fokina flat cutter.

If you don’t know how to dig up a garden overgrown with grass, then the tips in this publication will be useful. The following instrument has been known since the end of the last century. It gained popularity and love due to its lightness and versatility.

They can perform the following types of work:

hilling.
groove cutting various sizes for different needs.
loosening the soil.
formation of ridges.
crushing large lumps of soil.
removing/trimming weeds.

There are several options for flat cutters based on blade sizes. If you have several different ones, you can process both large areas and small secluded or inconvenient corners of your garden.

Hand cultivator.

In general, cultivators are designed for digging, loosening and creating beds on plots. There are 3 types of them:

root removers.
star or rotary.
rippers.

The axis of the star version is equipped with several star-shaped rippers. As soon as you press down and start moving the unit, these rippers will begin to rotate and loosen the soil and at the same time remove weeds.

But on heavy ones clay soils Such a cultivator is unlikely to please you with its efficiency. Here you will need a cultivator - ripper. It has several short-toothed curved shapes mounted on it. So they will save your energy when developing clayey area. And root removers are ideal for spot loosening the soil, for removing weeds that have deep and powerful roots, and for preparing holes for planting.

Ideal depth when digging up a site

Now you know what you can use to dig up your garden. Now it is important to talk about other points. There has long been an opinion that the optimal depth is at the bayonet of a shovel, that is, 20-25 cm. More modern farmers believe that 4-5 cm will be quite sufficient and natural. This is enough for sowing seeds, and the roots themselves will then go deeper to the depth they need. But with this approach it will be necessary to mulch the plantings 10-15 cm thick

But when cultivating virgin soil, you will have to dig up the area properly for the first time, at least to remove the deep rhizomes of weeds, which will noticeably deprive the cultivated plants that you plant.

Quick and easy digging of the site

To cope with this task with minimal effort on your part, the algorithm of actions should be as follows:

Use pegs and string to mark the required area of the site.
On one side of the perimeter, a trench is made the width and depth of a spade bayonet.
The soil from the ditch must be immediately cleared of stones, debris and weeds.
Such soil is placed in separate place with further use.
Now, parallel to the first groove, we dig a second one. We put the earth from it into the first groove.
We continue this way until the end of the marked area.
We load the deposited soil from the first groove into the last groove.

Fast cultivation of virgin soil

This is land that has not been cultivated for ten years or more. The turf grows over the years and makes it much more difficult to cultivate such a neglected area. Sowing and caring for plantings without first cultivating the soil will be a fruitless effort. But console yourself with the thought that the soil, which has rested over these years, has accumulated nutrients and will gladly put them into your harvest, after its cultivation, of course.

Of the most quick options For cultivating virgin soil, we can advise you on raised beds. We lay cardboard in the desired area of the virgin soil, and pour herbicides into the spaces between the rows. Now we pour fertile soil onto the cardboard and sow seeds or plant seedlings.

The method is fast, but expensive on the budget, because fertile land will have to be purchased, perhaps more than one car. If you still have time, try another option. Cover the required area with cardboard, press it down with a weight and leave it for the whole summer. Under the cardboard, all the green mass will rot and rot, and in the fall the area can be cultivated with any of the shovels or pitchforks described above. Or you can cut out layers of turf and immediately turn them over with the grass facing down. Potatoes can be planted in the gaps between the pastes, and after germination they are mulched generously with organic matter. In the fall, you will harvest the potatoes, and the plot will already be prepared for normal cultivation next year.

Making the right beds

It is not necessary to strain yourself on the site, trying to bring it into “working” condition in one day. Some current advice on this topic will reduce your labor costs:

Do not walk on a freshly dug area, especially if seeds have already been sown there. And also protect it from trampling by children or pets.
And it’s better to dig it up in several steps, especially if you haven’t exerted much physical effort all winter.
Stick the shovel into the ground perpendicular to it, then it will easily go into the required depth, that is, the entire bayonet.
And try to take it out with a shovel maximum amount ground, your back won't last that long. It is better then to take less land, but more often.
It is better not to start digging immediately after the snow melts, because even if the ground has thawed, it is still very wet, which means it is heavy. Wait a few days for it to dry out a little.

Digging a heavily overgrown area.

Don't be afraid, you don't have to raise virgin soil. It is enough to spray the area with herbicides, and then, after a few weeks, dig it up. And after another week, apply mineral fertilizers to it and loosen it. Now you can start planting on it.

If you need to dig up a frozen area.

It is better, of course, not to perform such feats, but there are such life circumstances that there is simply no other way. Then we will give you some detailed advice on this topic:

Light a fire in the desired location. The earth will warm up, thaw, and then it will be possible to dig it up.
Use a jackhammer or a pick to remove the still frozen surface of the soil, then the soil that is no longer frozen will go, it can be dug up normally.
Autumn digging of the site. Is it really necessary?

Some gardeners do not know the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the fall. Now, if you just purchased your plot in the fall, and it is in a state of virgin soil, then it simply needs autumn digging. AND The best way- dig it up in larger layers and you can leave it like that for the winter. Frosty cold will perfectly penetrate the cracks between clods of earth and destroy the roots or seeds of weeds. And when digging, it is better to immediately add phosphorus preparations to the soil; in the spring, your plantings will really need them.

Another advantage of autumn digging is that after it the earth will be well saturated with oxygen, which will also be very useful for the roots of your plants.

If you are lucky and you get an already cultivated area, then you don’t have to dig it up in the fall, but it is advisable to cover it with a layer of mulch; in the spring it will serve as an excellent fertilizer.

Finally.

So, you have become familiar with the options for improved shovels and forks for every taste, now you will not have to break your back in the garden, as before, during the spring preparation of the site for planting.

With the end of the harvest season, gardeners are wondering whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden in the fall. For many years, it has been a tradition to dig up the soil after harvesting. Recently, an opinion has emerged and actively spread that such actions are not obligatory, but are considered irrational.

When to dig

Digging is a procedure that involves turning over the soil. As a result of such manipulations, beneficial humus-forming microorganisms are sent deep underground. Unfortunately, oxygen often cannot penetrate to such a depth. Experiencing oxygen starvation, beneficial microorganisms die, and the soil becomes significantly poorer and loses its beneficial properties.

Considering these features, it is recommended not to dig up the garden in the fall, but to loosen the soil. However, an exception is made for heavy soil. Digging is carried out, but with small features. When carrying out autumn digging, about 15 cm of the top layer of soil is affected. The soil is not turned over, but shifted, removing the weed roots from it.

In addition, autumn digging of clay soil favors the improvement of its water and air permeability. As a result of such actions in the spring, the soil warms up well and very quickly.

Carry out autumn digging in accordance with the recommendations experienced gardeners better in the second half of September. By this time, the gardens are already cleared of all vegetable crops.

Plant tops that show signs of disease or infection are burned. Ash can be used as fertilizer during autumn or spring tillage.

The optimal period for digging up a garden is considered to be the period starting from mid-September and lasting until mid-October. It is important to complete such manipulations by the time the period of prolonged rains begins.

If you delay in carrying out such actions, digging up the soil can, on the contrary, provoke undesirable consequences. The soil will become compacted, and the access of oxygen will slow down significantly.

Why do they dig up the ground in the fall?

If the soil is excessively clogged with weeds, it is initially simply loosened. As a result of increased access to oxygen, weeds begin to actively germinate. After just two weeks, they move on to the next stage of digging, during which they remove:

rhizomes of dandelions and wheatgrass;
larvae of May beetles and wireworms.

Digging the soil allows you to discover and destroy underground passages pests, rodent holes.

This agrotechnical procedure allows you to saturate the soil with useful elements. While digging the beds, summer residents apply organic and mineral fertilizers.

If large pieces of earth form during digging, they do not need to be broken up. They will retain moisture and prevent the soil from compacting.

Weed control

Weeds are the worst enemies of summer residents. They grow quickly, causing significant damage cultivated plants, taking away a significant portion of their nutrients, closing them off from sun rays. It is for these reasons that no gardener will put up with the presence of weeds in the garden. Several times a month during the season it is necessary to carry out weeding to destroy weeds.

Digging is an agrotechnical procedure that is one of the most effective in combating weed grass. When carrying out such actions, the roots of the weeds appear on the surface, they are easy to detect, collect and throw away.

Of course, it will not be possible to ensure 100% destruction of weed rhizomes, but when digging, the strength of even the remaining weeds is significantly weakened. In the spring, less unwanted grass will begin to grow in such an area.

Fertilizer application

When deciding whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden in the fall, owners of garden plots receive affirmative answers. Experienced summer residents explain that digging allows you to add nutrients into the soil and contribute to its deoxidation.

Organic and mineral fertilizers act as nutrients.

It is simply wrong to throw fertilizers around the garden. First you need to decide which vegetable or berry crops It is planned to plant in the spring in specific beds.

After this, compost or humus is added to the areas where it is planned to grow seedlings, cabbage or cucumbers in the next season.

Mineral fertilizers will not be superfluous for any plants, so they can be distributed throughout the garden.

Change in soil acidity

The deoxidation effect will be achieved when the ash is mixed with the soil. This can only be achieved by digging up the area.

Minuses

Along with the multiple advantages that accompany the procedure of digging up a site, there are also tangible disadvantages:

Such work is never easy and one has to experience excessive physical fatigue. Therefore, experienced summer residents recommend a sensible approach to this task, digging up the soil only where there is really a need for it.
When using the wrong digging technique, soil inhabitants change places, which quite often negatively affects the condition of the soil.

Is it necessary to dig up soil in the garden?

If the beds survive the digging procedure, then similar manipulations in the garden can provoke extremely undesirable consequences.

When digging up the trunk circle of any fruit tree“dew roots”, which are small suction roots, are destroyed. It is their nature that has endowed them with the ability to absorb moisture and absorb nutrients. When digging, the shovel mercilessly destroys them.

For this reason, on the eve of winter experienced gardeners do not carry out such manipulations.

In addition, such agrotechnical treatment is extremely dangerous for stone fruit trees, apple trees and cherries. Their root system located very close to the ground surface. Any careless movement can cause damage to the roots. It will be difficult for a weakened tree to move winter period. In addition, in places where the roots are damaged, shoots will begin to actively grow, taking away the strength of the main tree.

Digging is not an easy agrotechnical procedure; it is a real art, the level of mastery of which determines the yield in the next season.

It is better to dig up the soil when it is sufficiently moist. If the soil is dry, processing will be accompanied by difficulties and you will have to make every effort.
The shovel must be inserted into the ground in a vertical position, capturing a small layer of earth.

Beginning summer residents, setting tasks for themselves, strive to solve them in short time. It is not recommended to apply this rule to the digging procedure. It’s better to do everything gradually, then fatigue will not be noticeable, and the quality of work will be higher.

If you spend a long time in the garden, accompanied by digging up the plot, minor health problems may arise. You often have to suffer from conjunctivitis.

This problem can be dealt with by using folk remedies. You can eliminate inflammation of the eyelids by wiping with your own prepared infusion. It is made from cucumber peels. You don’t have to wipe your eyelids, but make lotions. But before using any means, you should consult a medical specialist.

It is up to the owner of the dacha to decide whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden in the fall, and then again in the spring. This procedure is complex both physically and technologically. Therefore, it is recommended to listen to experienced farmers to do all the work correctly.