INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
Incorrect operation of the doors will cause that one day the doors may deform, settle down, stick out. How can I repair interior wooden doors with your own hands? In this article, we will take a closer look at how you can restore or, as they say, revive your old doors.
AT wooden structure cracks and gouges appear, the lining peels off. The door frame, which is not well fixed, begins to stagger and sway when the doors are opened or closed. Cracks are often created at the junction of the box to the wall, which will not be easy to cover up and the solution often disappears.
First, three or four holes are drilled with a drill along the entire length of the door frame bars, and at least fifty millimeters in the wall, from the side of the handles and hinges. Iron pins are driven into these holes, five to ten millimeters less than the length of the hole itself, screwed into the door frame.
Often, a solid wooden dowel is driven into the drilled hole. The box is put back and fastened with nails. Newly made platbands strengthen around the perimeter of the door, leaving about ten to fifteen millimeters from the edges of the box.
If your door is strongly slanted and “forces” the hole in the lock on the side and scratches the floor, then to eliminate this situation, you will first need a thorough examination of the strength of the hinge reinforcement in the upper part of the door. It is clear that if necessary, tighten the screws more tightly.
However, in the case when the screws are screwed in very tightly, then it is necessary to deepen the groove, which is located at the bottom of the hinge plate, in the strapping bar. In order to check whether the loop is seated correctly in the socket, fix one of the screws. After making sure that everything is in order, screw in the remaining screws.
The cause of the second failure may be a curvature door leaf rectangular shape. In order to eliminate such a flaw, it is necessary to cut off a layer one and a half to three millimeters thick from the wood (from the side of the lock or hinges) from the strapping bars.
If the door is jammed in the door folds, closing or opening poorly, the dimensions of the door leaf may not correspond to the dimensions of the frame itself, or the door is swollen from an increase in humidity, or there is a very huge layer of paint on the edges of the door and the fold of the box, or the hinges in the sockets are not tightly fixed.
First, we examine whether the hinges are fixed correctly, and then we control the gaps around the perimeter of the door frame. If there is no gap, then the door trim or folds from the box are extended (in order to create approximately two to three millimeter gaps).
Doors scrape on the floor and sit down
What should be done with interior wooden doors in this case, you ask? And in fact, everything is quite simple. First, we control whether the screws (self-tapping screws) are fixed. In the case when it scrolls completely, then we change it to a longer one, or seal the hole, put it higher / lower by the loop itself (also, if the loop allows, you can fix it with your own hands with a thicker screw).
When the fixation of the screws is unambiguously strong, and the door continues to sit down (although almost imperceptibly), then we put one or two washers or a steel ring made of wire on the hinge rod. This technique allows you to lift the door by the thickness of the nozzle.
The door does not close tightly and there are gaps on the sides
We clean up a large gap between the strapping bar and the folds of the door frame with the following actions: we pin a thin plank to the door border with our own hands. The gaps below and above the door are eliminated as follows: the door hinges are placed so that, preferably, one of the gaps is below, and the gap is clogged from above with the help of a plank.
The gap on the side is removed from the hinge side. The plank is trimmed flush with the door leaf, and the gaps (between the trim and the plank) are puttied and cleaned using sandpaper.
Doors swing on hinges and screws don't stay on
If the dimensions of the screws are incorrectly selected, then they cannot hold the hinge with the door leaf lowered on them. They will also wiggle if the door frame is made of still damp material. And after the wood dries, the holes for the screws will become spacious, or the holes were drilled with a large drill.
It would be better to replace these screws with others - longer and with larger threads. However, the size of the diameter of the cap should be the same so that the hole in the loop does not increase. You can also seal the old hole with a dowel. But a screw screwed into a dowel along the fiber holds worse for a screw twisted across the fiber.
Then you need to rearrange the loop to a different place, provided that the wood in the box is strong. If the wood is dilapidated, then we use a solid wooden insert, which is made in a thick block of boxes with glue and fastened with screws. Next, a door hinge is attached to the insert. In some cases, the door frame is made up of thin bars.
In such cases, an insert, with a minimum thickness of twenty-five millimeters, is located between the main wall and the door frame against the hinge in the selected slot, so that the oblong screw fits much deeper into the insert that placed our insert. Screws can also be wrapped in solid wood dowels.
Doors dry out, the panel is weakly held
Doors can be fixed with steel squares on both sides. To the strapping bars we strengthen the segments from the squares with the help of screws.
Otherwise, we remove the doors from the hinges, clean them from dirt, etc. Then we again smear the spikes with glue, tie the strapping bars together, put the panels in place, attach the doors to the clamping device, insert the pins, and spread with glue.
The panels burst and dry out, the bars from the box and the strapping from the door leaf are damaged.
To repair the strapping bar and boxes, you need to change the woody area. For insertion, dry wood is used, of any suitable length. We attach the insert to a pre-cut (originally dry) nest. After that, on glue (additional fasteners from wooden dowels) or with screws.
A minor crack that occurred one day in a strapping bar or door frame must be covered up using an oil putty or a mixture of sawdust with resin (epoxy). Large deep cracks (voids, cracks) are removed with wooden inserts and put on glue. Any cracks (slots) on the panels are treated with putty and inserts are laid.
Panels, as a rule, are fixed with layouts, which, if necessary, are removed and the cracks are cleaned. When the panels are mounted in the grooves of the strapping bars, it is clear that the doors will not be removed from the hinges and they will not be dismantled. The panel, as well as the inserts, is placed in the strapping groove, but “dry”, with a small gap. Repaired places are cleaned with paper (polished, emery).
When choosing interior or armored doors, the consumer is sometimes faced with a lot of special definitions related to locks, doors and door production. Many of the terms are well-known, others are less known and in most cases, most people do not say anything. Proposed door glossary will help facilitate the selection of doors, presenting, in essence, a significant part of the materials on our site in a compressed form.
If you need a more detailed interpretation of the term, then you can find it in the corresponding section of our website.
All terms of the dictionary are arranged in alphabetical order according to the principle "adjective + noun" (example: armored door, not armored door). To facilitate the work, use the search on the page (Ctrl + F).
Door Dictionary
Bumping - a method of opening cylinder locks with vertical arrangement pins (see "Pins"), based on tapping on a special key inserted into the cylinder.
Armor plate - see
"Protective accessories".
Armored door - common name metal doors sometimes even poor quality.
Backset - see "Dornmass".
Burglary resistance of doors is a set of design solutions that determines the time of resistance of doors to various levels of burglary. Expressed in classes (see "Door Classes").
Entrance doors. In most cases, this definition refers to entrance metal doors, but some manufacturers emphasize that such doors are not intended for operation under the influence of precipitation.
(see also "Cottage doors").
Drilling - a method of breaking locks, which consists in drilling the door in the right place. For lever locks, such places are special points characteristic of each model, for cylinder locks - the cylinder itself. Protection against drilling are armor plates.
Curved profile - see "Profile"
Door frame - a frame structure inserted into the doorway. Usually made from a profile (see "Profile"), is part of door block.
Door block - the general name of the door structure. In most cases, it consists of a door leaf and a frame, but may contain transoms and other elements.
Door jamb - door frame.
Door leaf - an opening, movable part of the door block, placed in the door frame and attached to it by means of hinges.
Doorway - a hole in the wall into which the door block is mounted and fastened.
Door fittings - the general name of mechanisms and objects hung and mounted in the door leaf (locks, eyes, handles, decorative overlays etc.)
Double-leaf doors - a door of two canvases (leaves), one of which is active (with a lock), the second - without a lock (passive).
See also "One-and-a-half doors"
Dobor, doborny bar is used in cases where the thickness of the wall exceeds the depth of the door frame. It is a decorative strip located on several sides of the door in order to hide the difference between the width of the wall and the depth of the box.
Doviator, deviator - see "Crab System".
Dornmass (backset), dormas - the distance from the center of the cylinder or key channel to the front plate or end of the lock.
In ordinary speech, it is sometimes distortedly called dormas. Backset is synonymous with backmass. See material with illustrations of backmass.
Eurobeam - see "Array".
Security fittings - elements made of hardened steel or its alloys, protecting the mechanisms of metal door locks from penetration by mechanical influences.
It is also called armor plates (not to be confused with decorative fittings and plates), which are of internal and external type.
Impost - a bar or rail that separates door segments from each other (for example, opening parts of doors from transoms).
Intelligent hacking methods - methods of breaking doors without using brute physical force and destroying locks: bumping, picking keys, opening with master keys, etc.
door class.
Standardized criteria that allow doors to be divided according to certain criteria. Most often, the class of burglary resistance of metal doors is implied (for a description of burglary resistance classes, see below).
in the "Steel doors" section).
Knobset, Knobset - the most widely used American design of handles for interior doors. Synonyms are the terms "handle-knob" and "knob" (short for Knobset or Knob - round). Knobset looks like a ready-to-install kit of a latch and two handles round shape, although there are also options with push handles (see the material “What is a knobset”).
Cottage doors are a variant of metal doors aimed at outdoor use and weather resistance.
Crab, crab system - a multi-sided door locking system based on the use of additional devices (doviators) with crossbars, driven by the main lock with the help of rods.
Laminate is an artificial coating in the form of a film that imitates the texture of wood and is highly resistant to mechanical stress.
Used to cover fiberboard (wood fiber boards) in the manufacture of decorative cladding steel doors giving it moisture resistance and resistance to damage.
Left-sided (left) doors open towards themselves with the LEFT hand. The hinges in these doors are located on the left side of the door frame.
Solid wood - quality boards natural wood from which interior doors are made.
It can be solid (the most expensive) and glued, also called eurobeam.
MDF is a medium density fibreboard used for cladding metal doors. Various elements of interior doors are also made from MDF.
Push handle - (see "Fail handle")
Nob - see "Knobset".
door trim - decorative trim metal doors with MDF boards, wood, etc.
It can also mean the metal of the door leaf (example: the door is sheathed with 2 mm metal).
Fire-resistant (fire-prevention) doors are designed to resist fire during the time intervals specified by the standards, depending on the fire resistance class of the doors.
Squeezing the door leaf is a method of breaking doors using a crowbar or crowbar (see “Crowbar”) inserted between the door leaf and the box, and then squeezing (bending) the door leaf from the box.
Patented cylinder - a cylinder (see "Cylinder") with an increased degree of burglary resistance, using modern technologies protected by patents.
The most common patented cylinders from Abloy, Mul-t-Lock and Mottura are installed in armored doors of higher price categories.
Pin (pin) of the cylinder - small elements of the cylinder (see.
"Cylinder") in the form of small cylinders, on the coincidence of which with the pattern of the key the secrecy of the cylinder-type lock is built.
Porch (quarter) - constructive solution, covering the gap between the canvas and the box. Usually used in relation to wooden doors. Detailed description you will find a vestibule with sketches in the "Interior doors" section.
One and a half (one and a half) doors - double doors, one leaf of which is larger than the second. Passive, the second leaf has a small width and is usually in the closed state.
One and a half doors are used in openings with a large width, where you need to fill the excess space with something.
Powder Coating - Widespread polymer coating used to protect metal doors from environmental influences.
After applying in the form of a powder to the metal, the product is fired, after which the paint acquires its properties and hardens.
Anti-burglary labyrinth - a special design of the profiles of the leaf and the door frame, which, when trying to break in by pressing (see.
"Spin") form a "lock" that does not allow the door to be opened.
Fire doors - see Fire doors.
Anti-removable comb - a constructive solution that prevents the removal of the door after cutting the hinges, in which the profile of the frame and the door is curved in a special way - in the form of a niche and a ledge (comb).
Profile - a plastic, aluminum or steel element in the form of a pipe of rectangular or more complex cross-section, from which frames are made metal structures.
In the production of armored doors, a bent profile is most often used, made by the manufacturer of doors from metal sheets.
Crossbar - a rod that extends from the lock, directly locking the door.
Rosette, rosette handle - handle for interior doors, return mechanism which is located under a compact decorative casing (socket) of a round or oval shape. The socket does not provide space for cylinders, turntables for latches, etc.
Handle on a bar, plate - a door handle, under which there is a place for a cylinder, a turntable for a latch or another mechanism is placed.
A sign of such a handle is a decorative rectangular casing, elongated shape called a plank or plate.
Silumin is an alloy of aluminum and silicon used as elements of various mechanical devices.
It is characterized by low strength, used in locks and door handles of lower price categories.
Honeycomb filler - cells made of pressed cardboard (usually honeycomb-shaped) used for door leaf in lower price range doors - "Canadian" doors, Chinese, etc.
Cold rolled steel - processed steel high pressure, followed by an increase strength characteristics metal.
Used in the production of armored doors.
Door opening (opening) side.
How to repair interior doors with your own hands?
The direction of movement of the door leaf when opening the door (see "Left-handed" and "Right-handed doors"), set by the side where the hinges are located on the door frame.
Level lock - the name of the castle, the secret part of which is based on the use of special plates called levers.
A sign of such a lock is a safe-type key.
Transom - an additional, often non-opening door leaf, located in the upper or side of the door block. Usually a double-glazed window is located in it, although there are deaf options.
Cylinder lock - the name of the lock, the secret part of which is located in the cylinder - a replaceable device, inside of which there are pins that generate a secret code.
The cylinder lock in most cases is unlocked with an English key, which is inserted exactly into the cylinder (see also "Cylinder and Eurocylinder").
Lock cylinder (larva, eurocylinder). A cylinder or a larva is a replaceable lock element, completed with a set of keys, inside of which there are special elements - pins.
Coinciding with the pattern of the key, the pins allow you to make the rotation of the moving part of the cylinder, which is necessary to open the lock.
A eurocylinder is a cylinder of the Eurodin type, which is the most common type of larvae - almost all types of cylinders in our stores are eurocylinders.
Cylinders come in different designs - “key-key”, key-turntable (on the one hand, a key, on the other, a turntable-lamb, etc.). See also Patent Cylinder.
Seals (sealing contour) - gaskets made of elastic material (usually rubber) located around the perimeter of the door frame or leaf.
They prevent the penetration of noise, odors and cold air.
Ball hinge - a hinge inside which a ball of hardened metal is installed to reduce friction and ensure easy and smooth running of the door leaf. In most armored doors, ball hinges are installed.
Veneer is a thin layer of hardwood. In the manufacture of softwood wooden doors, pasting with veneer gives them protection from mechanical stress.
Anti-cut pin - special pins in armored doors, in most cases placed on the door frame.
When closing the door, they enter the door leaf, preventing the door from opening when the hinges are cut.
ZAM is an alloy of zinc, aluminum and copper used, among other things, for the manufacture door handles. The alloy is widely used and most of high-quality pens are cast from it.
Fail handle - a handle that actuates the latch tongue (fail latch) of the lock. In most cases, a file handle is associated with push-type handles - bracket-shaped handles that are familiar to all of us and are considered European.
Panel - a board or plywood installed in the frame of the door leaf. There are also armored doors made using the "metal panel" technology.
Crowbar - a thieves' tool in the form of a small curved crowbar.
steel profile
Deviator
crab system
Fomka -
famous thief's tool
Patent cylinder
Abloy Protec
External armor plates
for drilling protection
lock cylinder (bottom
parts are visible places for pins)
Anti-cut pin
Level lock
Repair of interior doors
Very interesting solution in some cases, it will be the repair of interior wooden doors. Often they want to simply replace old doors, assuming that their restoration will be difficult and expensive. However, not many people remember that modern doors are made of artificial materials.
That is why refurbished old structures made of quality material can be a much better option.
In order to finally make a choice: to change or repair doors, you need to evaluate all the nuances. It is important to understand all the advantages that a repaired old door will have.
It is worth deciding whether it is necessary to get rid of the worn-out structure?
Door leaf repair
A common problem is the inability to close the door.
The main reason for this is the swelling and shrinking of the box. In principle, we can say that the reason is the age of the product. The result is a deformed door frame.
The solution to this problem can be quite simple:
- To begin with, it is worth finding out which of the racks suffered the most.
- To understand this, you need to compare the gaps between the box and the canvas.
- If the gap is more than 3 millimeters on one side, then the problem is in the opposite rack.
Canopies can be the cause of loose closing.
In this case, it is worth checking the quality of fastening screws.
Over time, they can loosen and slip out of the tree. To fix this problem, just screw them deeper.
To repair the door leaf, there are 2 effective ways:
- If the door is rubbed against the box and only with effort can it be closed, then you should choose this option.
Its essence: to remove the structure and deepen seats canopies. Then you can assemble everything and check the functioning. If the problem has not been resolved, then a complete repair and restoration of doors will be required: interior and entrance.
- The second method involves other methods of repair.
You will need to free the door rack from unnecessary elements. Then the space between the door frame and the opening is cleared. The next step is to find the place where the door rests on the box. Further work is already needed with a drill and a puncher.
In some cases, you can use the critical method. Although experts do not recommend resorting to this option, it has a place to be. This method involves a direct reduction in the size of the door by cutting the structure.
Appearance restoration
Repair of wooden interior doors sometimes involves the restoration of the appearance.
This process is very labor intensive. In almost all cases, it requires the complete dismantling of the door unit. In some cases, it is equated with a conventional restoration.
In general, one should focus on general state doors. For example, the repair of interior doors: laminate, involves compliance with certain requirements.
However, for simple damage, minor local repairs may be sufficient.
Minor damage to interior doors includes: scratches and cracks. The elimination of such problems is carried out by puttying and grinding. damaged area on a surface. When repairing in this way, it is important to follow the sequence of actions.
First you need to delete the old layer.
Then you can proceed to the cleaning and restoration of the door. Repair putty can be made by combining glue with wood dust. When eliminating minor damage, it is necessary to ensure high-quality adhesion of the putty and the door. An artificial increase in the damaged zone will help with this.
Complete door restoration
The process of restoring the door block is very difficult.
One of the problems is the need complete removal old door covering. For this reason, you will need to dismantle the door and disassemble it into separate boards.
After removing the door, you can begin to remove paint and varnish. There are mechanical and chemical methods. The first involves the use of attachments for a drill or grinder.
Its main advantage is the simultaneous restoration of the surface. In this way, you can return the canvas and the door frame to a fresh look. Concerning chemical method, despite the lack of effort, it has one significant drawback - the ability to adversely affect health.
Do not know how to fix the front door with your own hands? Look here.
Do-it-yourself door restoration: design in a new style
How to repair a balcony plastic door find out in this article.
Repair laminated doors: interior or entrance, involves working with a decorative layer that cannot be corrected with putty. The main solution is re-gluing. To do this, the damaged sheet must be ironed through the paper, and then pressed with a rag to the base.
Read also:
— Prices for the installation of locks in metal doors
- Repair of locks on the doors: how to do it yourself?
- Almetyevsk
- Volgograd
- Voronezh
- Yekaterinburg
- Zelenodolsk
- Yoshkar Ola
- Kazan
- Krasnoyarsk
- Moscow
- Naberezhnye Chelny
- Nizhnekamsk
- Nizhny Novgorod
- Novosibirsk
- Permian
- Rostov-on-Don
- Samara
- St. Petersburg
- Ulyanovsk
- Chelyabinsk
- Yaroslavl
How to eliminate sagging interior doors
The most popular breakdown interior door its sagging is considered, in other words, the curvature of the position of the door in relation to the floor and the door frame.
Violation of robotic ability
Over time, the interior door literally leans towards the door handle.
At the same time, a slight distortion of the door position does not prevent its easy opening and closing, while a significant sagging completely disrupts the door's performance.
The inevitability of sagging
Both light and massive interior doors are subject to sagging.
Naturally, doors made of metal, solid wood, however, as well as other relatively heavy materials, sag much faster than lightweight structures. But be that as it may, over time, any interior door changes its position.
Causes of sagging interior doors
Initially, before proceeding with the repair of a sagging interior door, it is necessary to identify the cause of its sagging.
An interior door can change its position for four main reasons:
Loosening the fixation of the loops
Loose hinges are considered the most popular cause of interior door distortion.
To detect such a violation is quite simple, for this you need to open the door and carefully inspect the fixation of the hinges to the door frame. If weakened hinges became the cause of the door sagging, there are several ways to eliminate the malfunction. In some cases, it is enough to simply tighten the hinge screws, this action will be cost-effective when eliminating sagging light interior doors.
Fixing heavily loosened loops
To fix strongly loosened loops, the screws fastening them should be replaced with longer products.
If the holes for the screws are badly broken, then initially they should be filled with material. To do this, the door must be removed from the hinges, the halves of the hinges must be removed from the door frame, and inserted into the holes for the screws along the bead coated with glue. You can fill the holes for self-tapping screws with wood chips, matches and similar wood elements, while filling the holes can be either completely or partially.
After the glue with the material has dried, the halves of the hinges can be screwed back to the door frame and hang the interior door itself.
Door hinge distortion
Distortion door hinges becomes a consequence of their high-quality fastening to the door and door frame, but the load on the hinges exceeds the permissible maximum value.
Such a breakdown can be caused by installing a massive door on light hinges, and if all the rules for installing interior doors are followed, such a malfunction can cause a third-party load on the door. Indeed, often the interior door is equipped with additional decorative elements, a massive triplex crashes into it, or a hook is screwed to the door and clothes are hung up, and children also like to swing on the interior doors and all this can cause the door hinges to bend.
Identification of serious curvature of the loops
It is elementary to identify serious curvature of the hinges, for this you just need to open the door and visually assess the quality of the hinges, and more specifically, the severity of the vertical position of their connecting pin.
If the loops have strict rectangular shapes, then to detect curvature, it is enough to measure the distance between the hinges of the door and the door frame at their upper and lower points, in ideal hinges this distance will be the same.
Elimination of twisted loops
To eliminate this malfunction, it is recommended to completely replace the hinges, and it is more desirable to replace them with more durable products. You can try to fix minor distortions manually, for this you need to remove the door from its hinges and straighten the hinge risers.
How to repair interior doors yourself
Also, to temporarily reduce the angle of sagging of the door, an additional washer can be placed under the pin of the lower hinge, taking it, for example, from the upper hinge.
Loosening the door frame
Loose door frame fasteners also cause the door to sag. The side member of the door frame, to which the door hinges are attached, can simply loosen, resulting in a tilt of the door.
Often, door sagging is caused by too thin door frames or products made from insufficiently hard wood. A low-quality door frame literally bends under the weight of the interior door, which causes it to sag.
Dynamic curvature detection
To detect dynamic curvature, to the side of the door frame on which the hinges are mounted, it is necessary to attach an element equal to the height of the box with perfectly flat surfaces.
Such an element can be a bar, plinth, rail or any other product that has perfectly even sides. If, as a result of applying the product to the box, gaps are formed between the upper and lower contact angles, then the distortion of the box becomes obvious.
Elimination of dynamic curvature
To eliminate this malfunction, it is necessary to securely fix the bending part of the box by screwing a few additional self-tapping screws into it.
In cases where strengthening the door frame does not eliminate the sagging of the door, it is necessary to change the position of the door hinges. Reinstall the upper hinge a little higher, and the lower one a little lower, thus, the deflection angle of the box element will be reduced, and in some cases completely eliminated.
Curvature of the door frame, door or floor
If the sagging of the door does not fit any of the above reasons, then the curvature is to blame door frame, door or floor:
Elimination of such malfunctions requires certain knowledge and skills in the field of repair and construction work, therefore, in such situations, it is more correct to seek help from qualified employees of repair and construction organizations.
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Do-it-yourself entrance door repair
Repair of iron, steel and wooden entrance doors can be carried out independently. If the front door sags, the lock is stuck on it or the varnish has peeled off, then in no case should you replace it. Almost all door defects can be removed on your own.
Repairing apartment entrance doors on your own is a great opportunity to save on the services of a master and develop the skills of a home master.
Do-it-yourself wooden door repair
First you need to decide when the doors really need repair. All doors need regular care and maintenance. If you do not lubricate the door hinges, do not cover them with special compounds and do not clean their surface, then one day the doors may begin:
- hang on hinges;
- creak when opening and closing;
- become covered with cracks;
- poorly closed or sagging.
However, it is important to remember that door malfunctions are not always associated with poor operation.
Breakdowns associated with improper door production technology are very common.
Doorway repair
If the door does not hold well in the opening, then the opening needs to be repaired. front door.
To carry it out, you need to do the following:
- remove the door leaf and platbands;
- align and fix the box;
- drill holes in the door posts and drive steel pins into them;
- return the platbands and the canvas on the door.
If there are problems with the door hinges, there are options for replacing, adjusting or re-hanging the hinges. First, you need to check the strength of the upper loop. This can be done by pulling on the screws.
If the door has not yet had time to settle down strongly, then metal washers that are put on the hinge pin will help to return it to its place. The method is especially effective for removable versions of door hinges.
Eliminate door skew
Repair of the entrance metal door in the apartment may also sometimes be required, despite its reliable design.
Self-repair in such cases may not help out.
One of the most common problems with iron doors is skew. When a metal door is skewed, all of its beneficial features lose their meaning.
The cause of the skew may be:
- large body kit;
- hinge wear.
If the reason for the skew of the doors lies in too large a body kit, then a special approach is needed.
Most likely, the reason will be the multi-layered material of the door. In this case, it is necessary to repair the entrance steel doors in the apartment. It is quite difficult to carry it out on your own. The only option would be to cut the loops and replace them with new ones.
However, this method does not guarantee success.
If you have problems with the hinges, you first need to find out if they are screwed or welded. In the first case, there will be no difficulties in repair - it will only be necessary to find suitable fittings. If the hinges are welded, then you can’t do without the help of a door master.
Another cause of the problem may be the distortion of the entire door frame. The correct solution in this case would be to drive wedges under the base of the door structure.
You can get acquainted with the prices for the installation of locks in metal doors here. You can also order a peephole installation service in iron door, the cost of which is shown here.
Getting rid of rust
To bring metal doors into normal working condition, it is necessary to perform a number of complex operations.
Initially, it is necessary to prepare for the repair of the door by removing the seals and door fittings from it. Then you need to clean off the rust and sand the surface. After that, it is important not to forget to degrease the doors with a special solvent.
The next step is to putty the damaged parts of the door surface.
Then it remains only to use an aerosol primer and apply several layers of paint. After each of the stages, it is necessary to sand the surface, which is done in order to give it maximum evenness.
After the door is dry, you can return it to its place.
Elimination of consequences of hacking
Repair of the front doors in the house may be necessary after they have been damaged by intruders.
The outcome of such cases is different:
- damaged locks;
- damaged canvas;
- cut loops;
- other damage.
If the thickness of the door leaf is small, then the attackers will resort to cutting out the lock. To prevent such situations will help welding thick metal sheets in the vicinity of the castle.
Damage after an emergency opening of the door will also remain, but, as a rule, repairs in such situations are minimal.
Of course, the problems of each door are unique, so in some cases best solution You will be contacting a door repairman.
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- Do-it-yourself shower cabin from tiles in the photo and tips for making
— Do-it-yourself plastic window repair
— Repair of interior doors
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Repairing an MDF door is a very interesting activity. Structurally, it consists of a frame on which MDF sheets are glued. The frame is usually made from wooden beam. The door is hollow from the inside, so it is light and not very strong.
Scheme of the door from MDF.
Repairing an MDF door is no more difficult than fixing a "beetle" on the back of your favorite car.
Although the easiest way, of course, is to buy a new one. But when finances sing romances and there is simply not enough money for a new one, folk ingenuity comes to the rescue.
The described repair methods will undoubtedly help you save a significant amount of money that you would have to pay for a new one.
When choosing the materials that you will use, you need to consider that you need to use those that are designed to work with wood, and not metal products.
Repairing an MDF door is not difficult at all.
Before you start, you need to decide how much damage has been done to it. Depending on it, two types of repair can be distinguished:
- Scratch repair.
- Hole repair.
How to remove scratches
When repairing scratches on a door, you may need the following tools and materials:
- Sandpaper (marked from 150-200).
- Wood putty.
- Spatula for putty.
- Ground for wood.
- Enamel on wood (special two-component paint is used for MDF).
- Paint brush.
To remove scratches from the surface of an MDF door, use oil-free colored wax chalk to touch up small scratches, crevices and small holes.
First you need sandpaper clean the scratch and the area around it about one centimeter.
Then you need to clean the cleaned area of \u200b\u200bthe door from dust and small wooden particles.
The next step is to apply wood putty to the cleaned area, and then use a spatula to remove its remnants and at the same time try to make the surface perfectly even. After the putty dries, it must be re-cleaned in order to even out the remaining irregularities.
Clean up with fine sandpaper.
It should be noted that putty should be applied to the MDF surface very carefully, trying not to make new scratches. To avoid this, you need to use rubber spatulas.
Then, on the treated area, apply an even layer of primer on the tree and wait for it to dry.
After the primer has dried, we cover the entire door with an even layer of enamel (paint) on wood.
How to remove a hole
When repairing a hole, you must have the following materials and tools:
To repair the door, you will need the following tools: hammer, saw, planer, chisel, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Construction knife.
- Newspapers or something similar.
- Mounting foam.
- polyester or epoxy resin(both one and the other can be purchased at any car market).
- Sandpaper (marked from 150-200).
- Wood putty.
- Putty knife.
- Ground for wood.
- The paint that was indicated for the first case.
- Paint brush.
When repairing a hole, you first need to cut a hole that will be slightly larger than itself.
The easiest way to do this is with construction knife. In this case, if possible, it is necessary to try to make a chamfer to a depth of about 0.5 cm.
Then from the inside, along the edges of the hole, you need to fill it with newspapers or just paper.
If this is not done, then when filling the door, a very large amount of mounting foam may be needed. After that, the hole must be filled with mounting foam.
Do-it-yourself wooden door restoration: features, methods and recommendations
Once polyurethane foam dry, its protruding part needs to be cut off to get a flat surface.
A polyester or epoxy resin must be applied to the resulting surface to form a solid surface. This operation is best done by wearing rubber gloves, since the resin adheres easily when it comes into contact with the skin, and it can only be removed with a solvent. And the solvent, in turn, like the resin on the skin of the hands, can cause irritation.
As soon as the resin hardens, it is necessary to apply wood putty on it.
The dried putty must be cleaned with sandpaper to get a smooth and even surface. Paper with the markings slightly above should be used.
After stripping the putty, it is required to apply primer on wood. It is best to do this several times with a time interval of at least 20 minutes. After the primer has dried, the selected paint must be applied to the surface of the entire MDF door.
It should be noted that the primer is best applied small paint brush A: This will help avoid divorce.
As can be seen from the foregoing, repairing an MDF door is not so difficult.
And the time spent on do-it-yourself repairs compensates for a significant amount of money.
A common everyday phenomenon when our door suddenly starts to creak, closes loosely, there is a skew in relation to the door frame, from here we conclude, it's time to produce hands.
To repair the door frame, you will need the following tools: saw, drill, chisel, square, screwdrivers, sandpaper, spatula.
Now, for fastening elements, black wood screws have replaced screws, their twisted step fastens and holds the material together very well.
Door frame repair.
When loosening the black wood screws that hold the door frame, you can simply tighten them, but in most cases this method is not valid, as they do not hold well in already broken holes.
Then it’s better to replace your black wood screws with others thicker and longer. You can also hammer plugs into the old holes, then screw the wood screws into the same holes again.
If the door frame is fastened to nails and subsequently loosened, then strengthening the fasteners with self-tapping screws will increase its stability. If the door frame rests on the brickwork, then it is better to do the drilling of holes in the slopes with your own hands, then we use dowels as fasteners.
If your door does not close tightly and vibrates in the box, you should door frame repair- rearrange the shutter mechanism. We take a screwdriver and turn out the screws that secure the latch, then carefully remove it. To move the door lock latch, you need to expand its nest in any direction. Using a chisel, we increase the nest in the right direction, and close the holes for the screws with wooden plugs.
Now we install the shutter mechanism in a new place.
Sometimes it is necessary to repair the door frame due to its loosening; to eliminate this defect, a hole is drilled in vertical bar under the dowel The hole should be 10% smaller than the dowel diameter. After scoring it, an ugly place of repair remains.
To eliminate it, we cut out a small patch a little larger than the diameter of the repaired area and glue it with super glue.
If your door closes and opens with difficulty, there is friction on the threshold, then the door has sagged due to the loosening of the hinge fasteners - repair of the door frame and door is required.
To correct the inconvenience, we tighten all the screws to the end so that the loops do not go. If after some time your door sags again, then it is better to replace the screws with others, thicker and longer.
You can also hammer plugs into the old holes and re-wrap the screws into the same holes. But if the repair of the door frame has already been carried out in this way, then the self-tapping screws should be completely unscrewed, the hinges removed from the seat, and the hole for fastening the self-tapping screws should be drilled with a drill of a larger diameter than the old holes.
Cut corks of a suitable diameter, coat the surface of the corks with glue and drive them into the prepared holes. Then, after the glue dries, we drill new holes for the screws and fasten the hinges in place.
If an unpleasant squeak occurs when opening and closing the door, add a little machine oil to the hinges.
Platband on the door frame.
Door frame repair consists of a change of platbands. The old architraves are already outdated, they have lost their good appearance, cracked, in some places they are already moving away from the jamb, which means it is time to change them to newer ones.
We buy platbands taking into account our size and type of connection. With the help of a knife inserted into the slot with an old casing and a door frame, with our own hands, we remove old paint, then tear off the old casing from the door frame.
The surface of the box to which the platband was nailed is passed with sandpaper. When tearing off the old casing, a gap may form between the door frame and the wall or it was already there.
When repairing the door frame, the gap should be filled with some kind of elastic material, you can use mounting foam.
Now you can start preparing new platbands. Marking a new platband is a responsible job. We impose a new platband horizontally so that its upper edge recedes from the outer border of the vertical platband by 5 mm, and the edge with inside, receded from the edge of the box by 5 mm.
Holding the casing, make a mark 5 mm away horizontally from inner corner boxes. We carry out the same operation with another platband.
We saw off the blanks for the platbands according to the marked marks at an angle of 45 degrees, using these marks we focus on the lower joints of the platbands, after which we fix them on the box.
We take a new blank for the platband and apply it to the horizontal platband vertically, then mark it with a mark opposite the outer edges. We saw off the vertical platbands on a mustache and fasten it to the box.
We hammer nails or self-tapping screws from the front side, then we put the hats with a punch. We also fasten the corners of the new platbands along outside corners nails or self-tapping screws and we plant the hats with a punch.
We cover the recesses that were formed after the punch with putty. Then we take the skin and grind the platbands and paint. Door frame repair completed, now it looks like new.
Door with old metal frame (right) and new doors (left).
The old metal box of the old type of door is ugly. And of course, many want to replace it with a more modern wooden one, or even with a door wing. But you should not be afraid of dirt and dust during this work. You can make repairs to the door frame quickly and without destruction.
A set of portals, slopes and platbands is installed near the old metal ones. This is done quickly and cleanly: in one day, it is possible to repair the door frame of about 5 doors.
1. Door frame repair without destruction begins with the removal of old doors. After that, you need to break off the old loops with pliers.
2. After the doors are removed, the individual parts of the door frame are folded.
Such kits are sold in different sizes, depending on the size of the doorway and the thickness of the walls. It can be installed on any type of wall - panel, brick, drywall.
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3. After applying the adhesive, the joints are fixed with metal clips for greater stability.
4. To safely swing the door wing, the door frame must be balanced with a spirit level both vertically and horizontally.
In addition to a better view, you can change the direction of opening from left to right and even the way the doors open. We will save space if we replace swing doors with sliding or folding ones.
5. The next installation step is to dampen and fill the space with low expansion polyurethane foam, which will secure the frame to the door frame.
6. After applying the foam, you need to put the cross struts in the installed box. In the places where the spacers are installed, it is necessary to check the correct dimensions of the box.
There are no seals in old boxes and the sound of the door being closed can be heard throughout the house. The set of new boxes has embossing on three sides, in addition, wood absorbs sounds, unlike metal. Especially appreciate it in the bedroom or in the children's room.
7. In order to drill holes correctly, it is better to use ready-made templates. After that, we will hang out on the supporting part.
8. Platbands are installed on the other side of the doorway and are strongly pressed. For fixing, you can again use mounting glue.
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Fixing most defects in the interior door frame is quite simple. Door rattling can be eliminated by moving the latch plate. If the box is loose, first try tightening or replacing the existing screws; if the box is nailed, additionally fix it with screws. When brick walls in addition to tightening the screws, you will need to install additional clamps.
If the screws holding the hinges are loose, try tightening them; if they don't hold, replace with longer screws of the same diameter. If the screws cannot be tightened, ream the holes and insert wooden plugs into them. If too thick screws were previously used, their heads may be higher than the hinge map and not hold the door; replace the screws with thinner ones. The hinge socket may not be deep enough or too deep.
New architraves, covered with one or two layers of paint, will improve the look of the old door.
You may have to replace the old trim on the doors later. When buying new architraves, do not forget to specify all dimensions, taking into account the type of connection in the corners.
Fixing a loose box
If the frame is attached to a bulkhead, drill and countersink a hole in the vertical bar of the door frame. While the box is in place, drill a hole smaller in diameter than the prepared screw through it in the bulkhead post. Putty the screw head.
Loose hinge repair
If the screws fixing the hinge are loose, unscrew them and drill the holes according to the size of the pins (plugs). Lubricate the plugs and the edges of the holes with glue, then drive the plugs into the holes. Drill new screw holes in the plugs.
Hinge socket repair
The door may not open easily because the hinge socket is too deep. To correct the situation, remove the door. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit the hinge card and insert the cardboard into the slot; hang the door again.
Repairing a rattling door
If the door rattles in the frame, move the door latch retainer plate. Remove the screws, then use a chisel to expand the nest from the side of the door stop. Drill out the old screw holes and plug them in. Drill new holes and attach the hinge card.
Door frame replacement
Step 1
Insert a knife blade between the casing and the door frame. Slowly slide the knife down to expose the layer of paint covering the joint. Repeat the operation on all sides of the architrave and tear it off with a wide chisel. Clean the exposed surface with abrasive paper.
Step 2
Mark a right angle 6mm from the top corner of the box. Place the trim sheet vertically so that its edge is above the edge of the horizontal trim. Mark on the platband the point of intersection of the two lower edges of the platbands. Repeat this on the other side of the box.
Step 3
Saw off vertical trims according to the marks at a right angle, indicating the lower ends of the joints. Nail the vertical architraves. Attach the canvas of the horizontal casing to the upper corners of the vertical ones. On the horizontal - draw a line that is a continuation of the outer edge of the vertical casing.
Step 4
nail horizontal canvases, as well as vertical, driving nails through the front side into the box. To fasten the corners, drive nails through the top of the horizontal architraves into the vertical ones on both sides. Siege the hats with a finisher and putty them. After the putty dries, clean and paint the casing.
can significantly extend the life of their work if you do not have the desire or ability to replace your front door, which requires the hands of a master. There are a number of reasons why you might need door repairs. This is a need to restore the canvas, correct the skew of the box, restore the trouble-free operation of the handle, locks and hinges, and increase the burglary resistance of the door.
In the breakdown of the front door, not only the time factor can be “guilty” - the most banal wear of materials. illiterately executed installation work when installing the door, burglary attempt, aggressive operation, manufacturing defects, weather- all these reasons lead to the fact that the door does not look good and does not perform its functions well. And repairing the front door becomes the only alternative to replacing the product.
Of course, each owner can fix minor malfunctions on their own, but if your door needs more serious work, a repairman from Masterville will be very helpful.
| from 1000 rub. |
Door repair: what do we repair?
Most often, door repair is needed when the following elements fail:
Canvas - corrosion or drying out;
Door frame - corrosion, deformation, falling out of the opening, change in design dimensions;
The lock is a locking system;
Accessories and platbands.
To repair work includes: elimination of mechanical damage, alignment of the frame, hauling the door leaf, replacement of insulation, replacement and repair of locks and handles, repair of hinges, installation of additional locking mechanisms and burglary fittings, etc. In more detail about how it happens and what door repair can fix various types, you can read on the pages: Repair of wooden doors and Repair of metal doors.
Entrance door repair from Masterville
All of the above works are carried out by specialists of our company, if you need entrance door repair. We restore and modernize doors, effectively correct defects of any complexity, restore the functionality and aesthetic appearance of wooden and metal structures. Any door can be repaired with us. All work is carried out using high-quality modern materials and special equipment.
Restoration of doors with dermantin
When our craftsman fixes all the damage, and your entrance structure becomes reliable and durable, but, perhaps, still does not look attractive enough, we can make an original and one-of-a-kind door out of it. Restoration of doors with dermantine will allow you to do this!
Vinyl leather upholstery is almost indistinguishable from real leather upholstery. This is always a successful decorating technique and a great budget imitation with an interesting effect of a quilted door - the surface will become voluminous and textured. With our collections of leatherette and accessories, you can give free rein to your imagination and make your updated door truly unique. Just order the service "Restoration of doors" in Masterville.
Door repair in Moscow
Door repair in Moscow we are trusted by economical people who are not accustomed to compromises in terms of quality and time costs. We understand that you do not want to overpay and trust your door to amateurs, which sometimes you may need urgent repair front door, for example, if the door was tried to open by intruders, or it has significant damage. For this reason, we provide our clients with smart specialists, the possibility of prompt departure, affordable and objective prices for all types of work.
