How I got cancer. Rami Blekt Intro to number four...
Purpose: Tar oil is intended for processing external wooden surfaces (wooden facades, gazebos, terraces, wooden garden furniture, fences, stairs)
Tar oil due to the content of pine turpentine, it penetrates deep into the wood, linseed oil does not allow the composition to "come out of the wood" under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, and raw natural birch tar is the most powerful natural antiseptic !!!
Properties:
oil is a pure natural product
Gives wood water-repellent properties.
Penetrates deep into the structure of the tree, forms protective layer and emphasizes the natural pattern and tone of the wood surface.
Prevents the formation of mold, fungus and other biological damage. Highly effective antiseptic.
Processing is easy and fast.
The treated surface is abrasion resistant.
Suitable for processing any type of wood.
Does not change the natural color of wood, emphasizing its natural texture.
Wayapplications: Stir the oil thoroughly before applying. Thoroughly clean the treated surfaces from dust and dirt. Remove old coating, if necessary sand the surface and dry. Optimum temperature air when applying the composition + 15º C, relative humidity less than 80%. The oil must be applied in a thin layer with a brush, carefully rubbing in the direction of the wood fibers. Remove excess oil that has not been absorbed from the surface with a rag.
Drying time: 24 hours.
Precautionary measures: Dispose of oil-soaked cloth or rags as household waste. Oil that has come into contact with skin and clothing can be washed off with warm soapy water.
Consumption: 100-150 g/m² for a single coat.
Compound: natural linseed oil, pine turpentine, natural tar
Transportation and storage: oil is stored in tightly closed containers in a dry and cool or cold place. Not afraid of freezing. At negative temperatures does not lose its properties.
Shelf life: 5 years from date of manufacture.
“Oleum addere camino” - this is how the phrase sounds in Latin: “I decided to add oil to the fireplace or fire” and we will talk about Wood processing oil. Today, this Latin aphorism denotes the heating of passions around the topic folk ways processing wooden products, and we will not talk about burning oil at all, but about using it to protect wood. Modern technologies creation of building materials led to the fact that all less tree used in housing construction. Furniture, and that is made from pressed waste. But our case is completely different! We are building a bath natural wood. And you can protect wood from decay with natural oils.
Choosing an oil for wood processing
I will immediately announce the main difference between wood impregnation oil and all kinds of paints: oils are absorbed, and paints create surface films. That is why lovers of hunting knives impregnate the handles for days, and do not cover them with varnishes that dry for 5 minutes. Any varnish in conditions of intensive use of a wooden surface will quickly peel off. And the oil, which has penetrated deeply into the structure of the wood fibers, polymerizes, becomes solid and reliably preserves the wood product.
Oil treatment methods: repeated application to the surface and one-time long-term immersion to soak.
I will make a reservation right away: do not expect to get any rich color from wood treatment with oil. Although you will definitely get a slight manifestation of the structure. The texture of the wood will be clearly visible and emphasized. This is guaranteed by the different density of wooden parts in the area of knots, which have different hydrophilicity - they interact with water in different ways (wet). In any case, before applying the oil, it is necessary to remove the blue and bleach wood. Repeated moistening and drying of the wood with water subsequently leads to cracking. Oil seepage prevents water from penetrating into the wood. Oil-treated wood becomes hydrophobic - it repels water from the surface.
The biggest disadvantage of natural wood preservative oils is their very slow polymerization (drying). Remaining in the open air, under the influence of oxygen molecules and temperature, the oil first thickens and then polymerizes in a thin surface layer. This is how all vegetable oils behave. Their composition is dominated by polyunsaturated fatty acids - linoleic and linolenic. They delay the drying process of the oil. Linen and hemp are champions in this regard. Sunflower seed oil - contains less polyunsaturated fatty acids - dries faster
It is best to use oil to protect and treat the wood of knife handles, kitchen cutting boards, wooden utensils and, of course, the shelves in the bath (with some reservations). Be prepared for the fact that the complete drying of oil-soaked wood products will last several weeks!
In industry, desiccants are added to the oil to speed up polymerization (drying). Such a product has a different name - drying oil, which dries from 5 to 20 hours.
Vegetable oil in its natural form, even with a high content of linolenic acid, oxidizes extremely slowly. To reduce the drying time, the oil is subjected to heat treatment with the addition of metal compounds (desiccants) to its composition. When heated in oil, substances that slow down hardening decompose, and metal salts provide faster oxidation.
Folk ways of fixing (accelerating drying) of oil:
- Buy your own desiccant at an artist's paint store and mix with oil.
- Heat oil while rubbing into wood. In the steam room, the shelves are warmed up by a heating stove.
- Diluting the oil with turpentine speeds up drying, but the procedure is not pleasant.
Some online publications write about dissolving wax in oil and obtaining super-resistant coatings. Indeed, coatings are reliable and natural, but, alas, they are not durable. Require updates. Wax solubility is a controversial issue. But you can get a finely dispersed emulsion. I already wrote about such processing methods in the article.
Literally today, I updated the covering of the steam room of the bath with Neomid 100 oil. After operation from December 2013 to October 2014, the shelves of the first low level were dirty. Washed with soapy water and a cloth, dried and again rubbed with sauna oil. I can’t say that the board became much lighter, but the dark spots washed off easily. The upper shelves of the steam room are lighter, because I cover them with a sheet. Therefore, I personally will not talk about the miraculous properties of the oil.
Oils for woodworking
| Product and Purpose | Purpose |
|
Hard wax oil Osmo |
|
| Adesiv Paviolio 25- oil with wax for decorative and protective treatment all types of parquet from any breed wood, parquet and solid boards, modular parquet, as well as parquet from exotic woods |
|
| AWO Hard Wax Oil (American Wood Oil) natural, extra matte, colorless wax oil for woodworking products inside the house |
 |
| Pinotex Terrace Oil wood protection oil for terraces and gardens buildings , moisture resistant, temperature fluctuations, chemical and mechanical impact, ultraviolet radiation |
|
| Rustins Quick Dry Danish Oil Indoor An aqueous mixture of natural vegetable oils and other special ingredients intended to supply and protect all types of internal wooden surfaces |
 |
| Synteko Natural Fast hardening oil for woodworking, wooden and cork floors: in offices, supermarkets, museums, as well as for processing wooden stairs, window sills, benches |
 |
Oil consumption depends on the type of wood and hardness. The average consumption of the product is approximately 2.5 liters per 75-80 m2 of treated area. It is recommended to apply 2-3 coats, and in rooms with intensive use one more additional coat is necessary.
Here are some wood protection oils. Each manufacturer has a wide range of products. Good luck in your search!
The secrets of wood processing are passed down by craftsmen from generation to generation, for example, furniture makers and musical instrument makers know several ways to protect wood that have been around for many years: wood treatment with linseed oil, wax, oil and varnish. All three materials require a carefully prepared surface. A tree that is pre-sanded and tarred. Sanding paper with granules is used for grinding by hand. different sizes if you work with a grinder, then you will need grinding wheels with different grain sizes.
First, grind with coarse-grained devices, and then the size of the granules should decrease. Well polished wood conifers it is necessary to remove the resin so that the resin that comes out does not spoil the surface during subsequent manipulations. Wood processing technology allows the use of alcohol, white spirit, acetone, gasoline, turpentine or nitro solvents. In cases of serious tarring, this part of the surface is cut out, and another piece of wood is glued in its place. In addition, alkali resins are well removed, which are applied hot to the wood, and then washed off and treated with a wooden surface. acetic acid, dissolved in water in a ratio of 1/50, to remove residual alkaline solutions. Once the wood surfaces have been sanded and deresined, they must dry before you can further coat them with protective compounds.
Traditional ways of protecting wood Waxing by hand Waxing by hand Waxing technology has changed little in hundreds of years. Manual waxing is done with a cloth that takes a piece of wax and rubs it into a wooden surface, soft waxes are used for this technique. Hard wax is heated in a water bath and applied to the wood with a brush. For waxing furniture, the first method is used, in all other cases, the second is used. Oil treatment applied to outdoor and internal works. No one uses pure oil; drying oil is made from it.
Lacquering is one of the final decorative coatings wood, but at the same time, the varnish performs a certain protective function: Firstly, it protects the surface from scratches and chips. Secondly, it fills the pores and prevents the development of any microorganisms in them. Thirdly, for a long time retains aesthetic appearance tree.
Other options for protecting wood Wooden structures can suffer not only from bark beetle or mold, but also from fire. To reduce the risk of accidental fires from sparks or short circuit wiring, wooden details are treated with special protective impregnations - flame retardants. Fire retardant treatment allows you to apply any varnishes or paints to the tree after drying.
To apply such impregnations, the wood must be dry and clean, any stains, as well as old coatings, must first be removed. Issued different kinds fire-retardant impregnations, which give the treated surfaces 1 or 2 class of fire resistance. The compositions are applied with the help of brushes, spray guns, and if the structure can be disassembled, then individual parts can be soaked in impregnation baths.
To protect against water, there are also their own ways of processing wood. For example, coating with any varnishes or paints will protect wooden structures from decay, but there are also special water-repellent impregnations - azure. What it is? These are glazing compositions that combine impregnation and transparent varnish, but, unlike the latter, do not leave a hard surface layer, but form an elastic film of a matte, semi-matte or semi-gloss texture. Azures are on water based, oil-based, white spirit, the former are more often used indoors, the latter are suitable for outdoor use. To change the shade, tinting compounds are added to the azure. In addition to the base and shade, azures are also divided by density, in order to beautifully cover vertical wooden surfaces, it is better to take high-density azure - thixotropic, since it will not sag.
Varnish or oil - which parquet flooring is more practical to use?
The topic of this article did not come about by chance. Our customers are becoming more and more knowledgeable about "sexual matters", and many already know that there is not only varnish for parquet flooring. There is also oil treatment, which has significant advantages over polymer coatings.
Now we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Oil treatment of wood has been considered traditional for many centuries, and only in the 20th and current 21st centuries has it been unfairly forgotten. In Moscow and other European capitals, there are a lot of buildings and objects where parquet, treated with oil, is still lying, the age of which is over 200, and sometimes even 300 years. Is this possible with lacquered parquet? No, history has no such data. The majesty of time itself confirms that wood treated with oil becomes more resistant to mechanical damage and harder. To make it clearer to you, let's remember about exotic woods such as merbau, jatoba, campas. These rocks contain a large number of oil substances, and nature did this so that during the dry summer, the wood does not dry out, giving off moisture. Merbau, jatoba, kempas and wenge (exotic oil-bearing species) have wood hardness 50% higher than that of the hardest European species - oak. By treating wood with oil instead of varnish, you make it harder and much less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. This is just a small practical confirmation that oiled wood has dramatically better characteristics than varnished wood. 
Now let's consider practical examples of the behavior of a massive or parquet board under oil in the conditions of modern operation.
The varnished board is strictly forbidden to be used in rooms where the temperature drops below 15 degrees. But the board under the oil of these adverse conditions not afraid. Why is this happening?
Photo wood oil treatment
Lacquer is a polymer film that is applied to upper part wood without penetrating into its pores. Imagine polish on a woman's nails - the analogy is 100 percent: the polish protects the surface of the nail and makes it more aesthetic. This is where the benefits end. The nail does not breathe under the varnish, and after a while, it needs to be allowed to recover. The floor covering under the varnish also does not breathe. With changes in humidity and temperature in the room, the tree, trying to acquire the same humidity characteristics as the room, begins to expand and contract: all this happens directly under the varnish itself. That is why the cracking of a parquet board under varnish is significantly higher than that of a board under oil. The deformation of the upper layer of varnish due to the fact that the lower layer of wood is movable occurs quite quickly. It is recommended to restore the parquet board under varnish every 10 years. To do this, you need to take out all the furniture from the room, sand the board, removing the old varnish, and apply a new one.
The situation is completely different with oil-coated wood. Given the fact that the oil is deeply absorbed into the pores and does not prevent the entire board from breathing, there is almost no splitting. The board, without any tension whatsoever, moves freely and changes its shape. Oil treatment protects the board from moisture and can be washed with a damp cloth without fear of destroying the top layer. Feel free to use it in the kitchen, hallway and other "wet" areas. A tree under oil practically does not require restoration, it just needs care. To do this, acquiring parquet or massive board under oil, get a care product. A bottle of such a product costs no more than 800 rubles and it lasts for a very long time: 1.5-2 years. Add one capful of product to a bucket of water, and your flooring will be "restored" every cleaning. Each such cleaning will refresh your floors, making them more and more attractive each time. 
Well, what if we ruined our board by spilling a bottle of red wine on it? - you ask. Nothing terrible will happen if you do not leave the wine to dry, but immediately remove it. Well, what if the unforeseen happened, and the wine dried up? In this case, visit the nearest store with parquet chemistry, purchase 2 bottles of special agents: one will clean the stain, the second will restore the appearance. And note that for restoration you do not need to scrape and change the entire floor in the room: this can be done locally! Moreover, many oil flooring companies have special teams that will come and do all the work themselves at your call. Is there such a service for varnished parquet board manufacturers? No, he is missing.
And the last question that may confuse you. Dust, you say. Oil absorbs dust. Yes exactly. The oil absorbs the dust and the care product removes the dust. And it cannot be otherwise. On any flooring dust must be removed either with a vacuum cleaner or with a wet cleaning.
Do not forget also that oil coating is the most environmentally friendly and natural: no acids, formaldehydes and polymers that are in varnish. American therapists also advise using such floors at home, as the oil retains the natural texture of wood and the surface acquires a gentle silk effect.
Features of the correct waxing of wood
It is important to emphasize the texture of wood with an appropriate finish. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on a different basis. They have their advantages, but there are also significant drawbacks, the main of which is unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, in the manufacture of wooden spoons or dishes.
Natural bees or vegetable wax
1) harmless to health,
2) emphasizes the beauty and shows the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the surface of the wood treated with wax becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, besides it breathes, unlike varnishing,
4) the tree acquires a noble matte sheen that does not hurt the eyes,
5) has an excellent smell. 
Wood must be impregnated before waxing. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil, better of course linseed. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then polished.
On the basis of linseed oil, impregnating compositions on herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal) are often prepared. The tannins contained in the plants pass into the oil and, when processed, strengthen its surface layers.
mint oil
Here is a recipe for peppermint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:
100 g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured into 0.5 l of vegetable oil, shaken and sent for 2 weeks to dark place. Then it is filtered and used.
After the tree is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is made from wax and turpentine in a 2:1 ratio, or oil and wax in a 2:1 ratio (this is for food products). Here is another recipe for how to make wax mastic:
We take 100 g of wax, 25 g of crushed rosin and 50 g of purified turpentine.
In a water bath, melt the wax in an enameled container, add rosin. After the wax dissolves, gradually add turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives extra flavor. Remove everything from the fire, pour into tin can and let the mixture cool down. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:
She rubs the product and rubs it with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and shine appears.
Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.
In addition to beeswax, carnauba wax is often used, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree. In hot weather, it releases a wax that coats the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.
Carnauba wax has a higher melting point and is therefore more stable than bees. But also 3 times more expensive.
Advice:
I have tried using a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil for waxing.
We heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add linseed oil and mix well.
Proportions:
Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a "greasy" sheen.
Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. The more oil, the more creamy the mastic will turn out. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before use, we climb into the jar with a cloth and, having collected a little mastic, we polish the product on the machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles (sour cream climbs everywhere).
Mastic based on "Wax-oil" - relatively safe for "food" products (jars, vases for cookies). Why I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person in whom your product will cause allergies. I personally know a person with an allergy to linseed oil :)
But it should be recognized that the wax and oil components of the mastic are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with products.
Try mixing the wax with other oils - maybe you like something more.
Going further - you can infuse the oil before mixing on the roots and herbs (infuse for about 2 weeks).
For the sake of interest, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when a linden is covered with such a mastic, a gentle juniper smell comes from it (a familiar carpenter was puzzled at first :)). Also, various herbs and roots often change the shade of the coated product - in general, an unlimited springboard for creativity.
Linseed oil can be bought in many pharmacies - it is the cheapest there. Oil that is sold in art salons - I do not recommend using it for food products.
I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's market". Once I bought wax in the market (in the form of molds) - something is not right.
Also, products can be coated simply with a piece of wax - apply wax to a rotating product - rub it well, and then polish it with cotton, woolen or linen
Linseed oil
Also in Ancient Russia craftsmen began to impregnate the wood with oil in order to improve its properties. With the help of linseed oil, they impregnated wooden spoons, thereby extending their service life. And today, wood impregnation oil is one of the the best means such as lacquer.
There is finishing and primary processing of wood. During the primary treatment, the tree is impregnated with an antiseptic, which protects it from the occurrence of microorganisms that can have a destructive effect. Finishing impregnation is used with varnishes, oils or glazing agents. It is when finishing that it is extremely important to choose the right tool so that in the future your building can stand as long as possible. Oil for wood, especially linseed, is able to perfectly penetrate the inside of the logs, giving them a satin, beautiful sheen, with its help you can even get the “antique effect”. Often, wood oil is also added special preparations that can protect it from the weather and enhance the properties of the tree.
The oil is recommended to be used during finishing wooden log cabins, which are used for the construction of a bath. In this case, preparations containing oil as their basis are practically indispensable, since such a tree will have to literally come into contact with the human body. The composition of oils intended for steam bath treatment includes natural resins and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. On the floor, this oil is able to form a durable thin layer that is not afraid of human sweat, water and high temperatures. Oil consumption for such impregnation is approximately 10 square meters per liter.
In addition, this colorless linseed oil is great for processing shelves and everything. bath room generally. Before starting wood processing, it is necessary to make sure that the humidity in the room is 80%, and the humidity of the wood is not more than 21%. The tree must be dry, cleaned in advance of dirt, fungi and mold. If necessary, you can make a primer on the surface that you are going to process. If the wood has previously been varnished or painted, then oil cannot be used.
Before processing, linseed oil must be thoroughly mixed, and it must not be diluted with water. Apply it to the wood carefully, using a simple cloth or brush. The oil that has not been absorbed into the wood should be removed. The oil is applied to the wood in two layers. The oil dries rather slowly, about a week, while the drying period directly depends on the quality of the treated wood and weather conditions.
Wood shavings and brushes, rags that have come into contact with linseed oil should be kept in a bucket of water, as spontaneous combustion is possible. It is best to destroy them immediately after impregnation is completed. The remains of linseed oil must not be poured into the ground, natural reservoirs and sewers.
It is a natural product for impregnating (oiling) wood, made from vegetable oils (linseed, tung ...) or petroleum. Oil from oil, as well as from vegetable raw materials, is a natural safe mineral oil, since oil itself appeared from the decay products of small organisms of animals and plants that lived millions of years ago. Oils derived from petroleum are used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and are used to prepare ointments and creams.
The history of oil impregnation for wood.
In ancient times, oil was traditional finishing material for a tree. Natural oil has been used for almost as long as wood has been used. During the reign of Alexander the Great bridge tree was soaked in olive oil (Greece). The Romans protected their ships by treating them with tree resin. It is believed that a "wood preservative" called oil was mentioned in the writings of Confucius from around 400 BC. Protective properties linseed oil was discovered in the late 1800s, people were working on wooden floors and furniture and even cricket bats. To improve the finish and increase the durability of wood, they often began to use beeswax, but due to its softness, it did not provide long-lasting protection. The next step in the history of the oil-wax industry was the combination of oil and wax into one product, which allowed the maximum use of both attributes. The most popular product of today in Ukraine (Kyiv, Kharkov, Odessa) is "Hard Wax Oil".
Where is wood oil used?
Oil for outdoor work used for protection and decoration wooden houses, glued laminated timber, fences, gazebos (arbors), benches, wooden terraces, handrails (railings) and fences, blockhouse and lining, truss system, balconies, playgrounds, swings, benches, doghouses, firewood.
Butter interior used for protection and decoration on items such as furniture, parquet, stairs, interior details, countertops, wooden souvenirs, children's toys, dining tables, parquet board, beds, wooden utensils, lining, blockhouse, railings, wooden walls and ceilings, natural cork products, window sills.
Wood oil has been used by people for many years to protect indoor and outdoor wood. Due to its environmental friendliness and safety, natural oil has again taken its leading position in the last few decades.
What is oil made of.
Wood oil can be plant-based and mineral. These are all natural oils. Also, oils are divided into drying and non-drying.
Wood finishing vegetable oils include linseed, tung, teak, jojoba, thistle, castor, safflower, olive, corn, and peanut oils.
Linseed and tung oils are classified as drying oils. They are suitable for finishing wood surfaces, reduce the penetration of moisture into the wood, make the surface easier to clean and slightly more scratch resistant. Pure tung oil is extracted from the seeds of the nut of the tung tree Vernicia fordii. It is used as a base for a mixture of oils. In its pure form, this product is difficult to apply, requiring many layers to ensure good water resistance. In addition, it dries for a long time, from 24 to 48 hours. When working with such material, 3-4 layers of impregnation and intermediate grinding between layers are required.
Raw flaxseed oil, made from pressed flaxseeds, is very different from cooked flaxseed oil, which contains desiccants. The main problem with using raw flaxseed oil (crude) is that it can take weeks or even months to dry. This makes it impractical to use raw flaxseed oil.
Oils that penetrate the wood and protect the wood from the inside are non-drying oils. These oils can be vegetable and mineral oils and are very suitable for finishing surfaces that come into contact with foodstuffs. Olive oil, corn, peanut and safflower oils are edible oils and are ideal for finishing wooden utensils. It is very important that oiled wooden utensils can be dried for several weeks before use.
Mineral oil is an oil derived from petroleum, colorless and odorless. Mineral oil will never go rancid, unlike many vegetable oils. Mineral oil is used as the best way for durable wood finishes such as wooden dishes, cutting boards for cutting, bowls, kitchen countertops, dining tables. The feature of this product is that this oil is safe for food products and non-toxic to health. Mineral oil gives excellent wood trim, creates the strongest gryaze - and water-repellent effect.
Modern technologies direct your attention to the product Hard Wax Oil to achieve the best result.
Benefits of natural oil finishes as opposed to lacquer.
natural oil coatings penetrate deep into the wood, deeper than any other coatings. Layers of oil are absorbed into the wood fibers, sticking together with the wood. The oil hardens and hardens in top layer wood fibers, forming an integral part of the tree cover, creating a protective surface.
The oiled surface has a wear-resistant finish. Natural oils allow wood to breathe, move, change geometry as environmental conditions (humidity, temperature) change.
A distinctive feature of many mineral oils is high content as part of solids. The solids in the oil remain on the floor after the surface is dry. A flooring containing 100% solids (Trae Lux Parquet Oliya) will not have any fumes. The more solids in the mineral oil, the more coating will be left on the floor after drying, giving more durability to the wood surface.
Natural oils perfectly emphasize the essence of wood, draw a pattern of wood texture, showing all the warmth of wood and natural appearance.
The surface treated with oil is easily restored if necessary. With proper care, wood floors do not need additional finishing for many, many years.
Oil colors.
Wood oil is available both in clear form and in various color solutions. At the same time, transparent oils are still matte, satin and glossy in terms of gloss.
Colored white oil on oak wood.
The quality of the pigment in colored oils plays an essential role in obtaining the best result. Pigments for oil must be of an improved composition so that when applied to wood they penetrate and soak the smallest wood fibers together with oil and at the same time the wood remains natural, without the formation of a foggy film.
Colored garden oil "Nut 507" on pine
In this case, the pigments should not be washed out by water, since the oil does not form a film. We will talk more about oil pigments in another article.
Choose and buy wood oil.
When choosing a wood protection oil, pay attention to the following subtleties:
Flaxseed oil ready to be applied to wood must be “cold-pressed organically refined from flaxseed”. If you use raw oil, unrefined, then wooden surface will be prone to mold and rot.
If the Seller offers you to buy linseed oil cheaper, be vigilant. Unrefined linseed oil has dark color, since the oil was not purified from protein and was not subject to cooking. Removing the protein is critical to preventing mold.
The price of wood oil depends on many questions.
The price of oil for wood processing depends on its quality and purpose. The price of oil for countertops will be many times more expensive than
external intake oil. Oil for lining on the ceiling is cheaper than oil for stairs and steps.
It is better to buy oil in a specialized store, where the consultant will tell and show you everything. There are brands that specialize in the production of oils and oil waxes: Trae Lux (Trae Lyx) Holland; Osmo Germany, Bona Sweden, Loba Germany, Golden Wave Netherlands. You can definitely choose the wood oil that you need.
Oil or oil-wax?
There are self-hardening oils and "" - more correctly, "wax oil" or "hard wax oil" which are used to process wood (wood products), wooden floors, stairs, furniture and children's toys. At the same time, linseed oil in its pure form, the so-called "raw" is not used for high-quality wood finishing, since wood treated with pure linseed oil will have a long-drying sticky surface on which dirt adheres. Thus, a self-hardening oil necessarily contains a mixture of various natural oils. This contributes to rapid (at least 24 hours) drying for the application of the next layer and obtaining a very transparent smooth surface. We will talk in more detail about how to choose the right oil for wood in another article.
Hard wax oil is also used for wood finishing. And it is just as important to pay attention to the composition of the product, as this greatly affects the final result. We will discuss this in more detail in another article.
This is how oil is sometimes applied by hand on a wooden floor.
Linseed oil is a natural substance obtained by cold or hot pressing. flax seeds. Pure oil can be used as a standalone finishing coating, but in the raw state it is ineffective, due to the low ability to polymerize (dry).
Speaking about the impregnation of wood with linseed oil, as a rule, they mean the use of drying oil. This is a modified heat treatment and the addition of chemical additives that accelerate the polymerization process. Drying oil is also called "boiled" or "boiled" linseed oil.
Features of finishing with raw oil and drying oil
When processing wooden products with pure linseed oil, you should be prepared not only for long-term drying, which can take up to 3 days (for each layer), but also to know a number of important features. The raw product is actively absorbed into the structure of the tree, so the coating of wood with linseed oil has to be done in 5-7 or more layers. Drying on the outside, it polymerizes poorly inside, which is why a dry-looking product can leave oil stains for a long time. Exposure to ultraviolet significantly speeds up the drying process. In the sun, treated wood can dry in 6-8 hours, but the tone of the coating will change: it will become yellowish or even slightly brown.
Drying oil, due to the high polymerization rate, has completely different properties: it dries quickly, is not so actively absorbed, does not change its color. This makes it more practical to use. Regardless of the conditions, the answer to the question of how long the drying oil dries is unequivocal - no more than a day (at 20 ° C). This sets it apart from raw linseed oil. Further talking about this type finishes, we will mean linseed drying oil.
Where is the best place to apply this finish?
Impregnation of wood with linseed oil does not provide a hard protective film that is resistant to scratches and abrasion. But this kind decorative finishes valued for something else, first of all, - environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the texture of wood and keep it from cracking.
Linseed drying oil is used for finishing products used indoors. It is optimal for covering furniture surfaces that are not subject to intense abrasion, wooden walls and ceilings. She is being treated wooden utensils, Kids toys. As a decorative and protective finish, linseed oil is appropriate to apply to the surface. valuable breeds wood for maximum preservation of their natural qualities.
How to coat wood with linseed oil?
Training. The oil is applied to a dry and sanded surface. The moisture content of the wood must be at least 15%. Work is recommended to be carried out at a relative humidity of not more than 80%. When applying the composition to oily wood species, the prepared surface is additionally wiped with white spirit.
Application. To work, use a brush, swab or lint-free cloth. The composition is evenly distributed on the surface, and allowed to penetrate into the structure of the tree for 15-30 minutes. Excess oil that is no longer absorbed is wiped off with a cloth or swab along the fibers. Keep the oil evenly distributed on the surface to avoid staining.
Each new layer is applied after complete polymerization of the previous one with preliminary grinding. The number of necessary layers (in the case of drying oil from 1 to 4) depends on the characteristics of the product and the type of wood (small-vascular species require fewer layers due to low absorbency).
The time of complete drying of each layer is up to 24 hours.
How to restore the oil coating?
Over time, the surface impregnated with linseed oil changes its color, begins to look dry or wears off. This coating is short-lived, but this disadvantage is compensated by the ease of its restoration. When applying a second layer, the oil will hide all scratches and return the external attractiveness of the wood. If desired, linseed oil can be tinted with pigments, achieving the desired color shades. For products not subject to intensive use, the restoration procedure is carried out every two to three years.
What is oil wax and how to make it yourself?
Linseed oil with wax is an effective decorative and protective coating that gives wood high moisture-proof properties and increases its wear resistance. The impregnation adds a silky sheen to the surfaces and enhances the natural qualities of the wood. Suitable for processing light and dark woods. Completely natural impregnation is optimal for finishing wooden floors, stairs, doors, furniture and other items subject to intense wear.
Linseed oil and wood wax are easy to make yourself. The easiest way: add grated beeswax to the oil heated in a water bath and bring to a homogeneous consistency. The classic proportion by weight is 1:1. The ratio of wax and linseed oil can be varied, creating compositions of varying degrees of viscosity: from thick mastics to liquid impregnations that penetrate deep into the wood structure.
How to avoid spontaneous combustion?
The process of oil oxidation upon contact with air is accompanied by an increase in temperature, which can lead to spontaneous combustion of steam-oil rags, swabs, sponges, etc. All consumables that were used to wipe linseed oil should be thoroughly dried outdoors in a straightened state before disposal, and it is better to soak in water or immediately burn them. Sealed containers are used to store the dispenser and other tools in contact with oil.
