How to increase the door opening. How to increase the height of the door

If you say that from matching sizes door block and the opening in the wall largely depends on the quality of the installation of the first, you will probably consider this a common truth. However, most novice craftsmen get burned at this point and, as a result, are very simple work turns into sheer pain. To prevent this from happening, the opening should always be checked for compliance with the door block (or vice versa) and, if necessary, increase or decrease it. About this and will be discussed in this article, in which, together with the site site, we will talk about how the dimensions doorways must match the block of doors, and at the same time we will explain how to correctly bring them to the desired combination.

Expansion of the doorway photo

Sizes of doorways: what to strive for

Anyone who has dealt with installing, replacing or simply purchasing any type of door knows that these products are standardized. This was done not only for the sake of banal convenience, but also in order to minimize the loss of living space in the premises caused by the presence of the doors themselves. Let's just say - in the bathroom, doors of almost the smallest width are used (exactly such that a person enters them, and it was easy to bring the right equipment). The front door to the house has a large width so that any furniture and other household items can be brought into the housing.

It is for this reason that a certain line of door leaf sizes was born in width - the doors are the same for all other sizes. Their height is 2 m, and the width can be 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm - if necessary, the sheets can be combined. That is, the entrance to the room can have two door leaves - for example, 600 and 600 mm. Or 400 and 800 mm - these are, which you can read about in another article on our site. It is to this standardization that the size of a standard doorway is tied.

Ask what to do if the opening does not match your new doors? It's simple - bring it to the desired dimensions, which will be discussed further.

Expansion of the doorway: it's simple only from the side

Faced with the question of how to enlarge the doorway in size, you first need to pay attention to the type of wall - if it is a wall, then you can not be afraid of the consequences of the expansion.

1. If it's about bearing wall, then you need to keep your eyes open with it, so as not to bring down the ceiling, for this you should make a preliminary reinforcement. Lay a channel on top of the opening, strengthen it well with welding or studs, and only then increase the opening in width or height.
2. If this is a wall, then you need to pay attention to the material from which it is made - if these are blocks, then they also need to be strengthened with a crossbar so that they do not collapse during work or operation. The door frame profile is by no means a reliable deterrent for heavy weight units.

How to increase the doorway in height photo

If specifically, as they say, point by point, to answer the question of how to increase the doorway in height or width, then all work can be represented as next row events.

1. Strengthening the upper part of the opening. This stage can be ignored only if the increase in the doorway is made only in width and then not much - by a maximum of 100 mm. It will be possible to remove 50 mm from each side of the opening - if you move in one direction, then the top of the opening will have to be strengthened. How is reinforcement done? Above the door, on both sides of the wall, a corner is laid (if we talk about piers) or a channel (if we talk about a load-bearing wall) - the metal located on one and the other side of the wall is pulled together with studs. Only after that you can proceed to disassemble or dismantle the unnecessary part of the wall
2. Markup. We calculate the new width of the doorway and draw it on the wall with a pencil and a level.
3. Removing unnecessary material. It is better to leave a hammer, chisel and sledgehammer alone - you need a grinder or, if it scares you a large number of dust, then a perforator. In the right place, the wall can be cut with a disk, or many holes can be drilled along the intended line, and then the excess can be knocked down with a perforator. The grinder works faster, so if dust does not bother you, then it is better to give preference to it.

How to expand the doorway, see this video.

Everything is simple - to break, not to build, but you should always remember that such work must be done carefully so as not to injure yourself and not destroy the excess. The dismantling of the walls is correctly carried out from top to bottom - everything needs to be disassembled, and not broken and crushed.

How to reduce a doorway: options and their features

On the one hand, it may seem that reducing the doorway is easier than making it larger, but on the other hand, such confidence, as a rule, crawls out sideways. First of all, an incorrectly reduced opening is a crack on the wall. Quite often, the wrong approach to business leads to loosening of the door block in a narrowed opening. In general, troubles can be very serious, and they can only be avoided thanks to right choice materials and technology.

For information on how to reduce the opening with drywall, see this video.

In principle, this is all that can be said about the size of the doorway and how to change them. The only thing that can be added is to say a few words about the decrease in height. The technologies used here do not differ much - if we are talking about slight decrease, then you can sew a beam or glue drywall. If you need to reduce a lot, then you should first install a corner or channel and only after that wall up the unnecessary space with bricks or any other materials convenient for you.

Some craftsmen are afraid of work related to repairing doors or changing their design. And in vain. Even with a modest ability to make these works, you are quite capable of doing them.

They seem complicated only at first glance.

Door malfunctions are not a pleasant phenomenon. They usually have to be removed on their own. That's why House master should know how to replace the old lock with a new one, eliminate the warp of the door, hang it on other hinges, put in order the broken connections in its design.

It is not uncommon for a door to be redone to make it easier to arrange furniture. When laying a new floor covering sometimes it becomes necessary to shorten the door due to the fact that the floor has become higher.

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF THE DOOR LOCK IS DEFECTIVE?

Remove the door first. Check the degree of wood damage. Reestablish corner connections: glue, reinforce with dowels or wedges. rearrange door locks and loops. Close up the old nests for the lock and hinges. Determine the position and select the hinge slots in the door leaf and frame. Select a padlock. Determine the position and select the socket for the collar plate of the lock. Fit and fasten the collar plate of the lock with screws. Determine the position and select the slots for the lock striker, latch and latch. Fit and fasten the lock striker plate with screws.

REMOVING THE DOOR FROM THE HINGES

To remove the door, it must be opened completely. Carefully, so as not to pinch your fingers, grasp its left and right edges with your hands and remove the door. If the door leaf is too heavy, you need to pry off its lower edge, for example, with a powerful screwdriver, put a sufficiently strong bar under the screwdriver and, stepping on its handle with your foot, lift the edge of the door.

When hanging the door, you should first put the card sleeve of its lower hinge on the rod of the response card (usually longer), and then do the same with its upper hinge.

The load must be evenly distributed on both hinges. If, for example, the sleeve of the upper door card is completely put on the rod, and the sleeve of the lower one does not reach the base of the rod, one or two washers must be placed under it in order to equalize the load.

STRENGTHENING JOINTS WITH DONGLES AND WEDGES

The cracked wood of the door leaf frame can be reinforced with wooden dowels. To do this, it is necessary to clean the crack (or cracks), introduce glue into it and temporarily squeeze the door with a clamp. In the middle of the edge of the door frame with a 08 mm drill, holes are made through the cracks for the dowels. Lubricate the holes with glue and drive wooden dowels into them.

The frame of the door leaf consists of lateral longitudinal and upper, middle and lower transverse elements connected by glue. If any of these connections is broken, the contact surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned, smeared with fresh glue and fastened with clamps.

Strongly damaged places needs to be split. To do this, wedge-shaped nests are hollowed out on a tree with a chisel, into which they are inserted and fixed on glue and pins sawn from healthy tree inserts of the appropriate form. The texture directions of the inserts and the frame must match each other. REPLACE LOCK AND HINGES

If the door does not open well, we recommend hanging it on the other side. To do this, you need to rearrange the hinges and the lock. In those places where they were fixed, naturally, there will be nests that need to be repaired. To do this, we advise you to cut the wood in these places so that rectangular recesses and, accordingly, cavities form, accurately measure their dimensions and make wooden inserts of the required shape from them, while paying attention to the direction of the texture lines. Inserts are best made with some margin in thickness. Attach them with glue and pins. When the glue hardens, the protruding parts of the inserts are removed with a chisel or planer and cleaned with sandpaper.

SHORTENING OR EXTENDING THE DOOR LEAF

If necessary, hang the door so that it opens in opposite side, that is, in another room, it needs to be adjusted to door frame again. If the floor in that room is higher, it is possible that the door will need to be reduced in height. To do this, it is attached to the door frame and determine how much to shorten. Having cut the door along the marked line, the cut surface is treated with a planer.

If the door is too short, it can be extended by attaching a bar of the appropriate thickness to it from below with glue and pins. The pin heads must be recessed. For a more precise fit of the door, its upper edge can be machined accordingly. MARKING THE POSITION OF THE HINGES On new door leafs the attachment points of the loops are already marked. The material in these places is usually reinforced. When outweighing the old door leaf, the place of attachment of the hinges will have to be determined by yourself.

WORKING WITH A CHISEL

There are two surfaces on the chisel blade: the base and a chamfer sharpened at an angle to it. The surface parallel to the base is called the back face. When selecting recesses or grooves, the base of the chisel should be directed towards the removed wood.

We advise you to position the hinges so that the distance between the upper edge of the door and the upper edge of the upper hinge is 215 mm, and the distance between the lower edge of the door and the lower edge of the lower hinge is 225 mm. If the attachment points of the hinges fall on the connections between the elements of the door, it is more expedient to mark them in other places, otherwise the carpentry connections will experience additional loads. SELECTION OF SOCKETS AND FASTENING OF HINGES

The slots for the hinges must be chosen very precisely. Their depth must be the same everywhere. A line indicating the depth of the hinges is applied to the edge of the door using a carpentry thicknesser.

The hinge card is an L-shaped metal plate, one side of which extends beyond the edge of the door. Accordingly, the selected nest should be L-shaped, and not rectangular. Its narrow part should be located in the middle of the door edge. To designate the contours of the nest, one should superimpose

live loop on pre-marked places and use it as a template.

Along the lines marking the upper and lower boundaries of the nest, first make cuts of the required depth, holding the chisel vertically. Then, between them, excess wood is gradually removed. As you approach the desired depth of the nest, you should work more carefully. SCREW FASTENING

After cleaning the nest and carefully fitting it to the hinge map, mark the points for drilling holes for the screws with a sharp pencil. And in this case, the loop is used as a template.

The holes for the screws must be drilled strictly vertically, otherwise the loop may move when they are screwed in.

The position of the hinges on the door frame is determined when fitting the door. If you, for example, hang new door, for the starting points when taking dimensions, you can take the upper edge of the door and the lower edge of the lintel of the door frame. If necessary, the bottom door can be shortened. Even when marking, you should check with a plumb line whether the hinges are exactly located one above the other on the door frame. DRILLING AND GOLONGING OF SOCKETS WHEN PUTTING THE LOCK INTO THE DOOR

The work on installing the lock can be carried out by opening the door and securing it with wedges. First, the contours of the lock body are marked with a pencil, remembering that the cuff plate framing the valve must be flush with the tree.

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I will ask you a simple question: “Do you know why they reduce the doorway?” Of course, you will answer: “To fit a door in the doorway right size!” And you will be right, this is one of the correct answers!

There are cases when, according to the project of a house, builders make very large doorways and it is not advisable to put a wide door there. First, the door is wide big weight and over time, it will sag under the weight and will not close well, and secondly, it takes up too much space when open.

But there are several more options, for which they reduce the opening of the interior door:

Aesthetic- when the doorway is aligned with the wall of the room and if you do not narrow it, then at the exit we get not beautiful trimmed door frames.

Rice. 1. Not a very nice picture when trimmings are cut off

Safety- a similar case, when the opening is aligned with the wall, the door opens only 80 degrees and the protruding handle can cause injury to running children and even an adult.

Fig.2. Correct doorway with door open more than 90°

There are several options for how to reduce the width of the doorway, let's look at them in more detail.

How to shrink a doorway with drywall

In our opinion, this is the easiest way to reduce the doorway, both in width and height in typical city apartments, as it allows you to create walls of any length and thickness.

We want to share personal experience how to reduce the width of the doorway with drywall.

As always, we recommend creating a minimal design to get a visual idea of ​​what will happen in the final stage. The project will also calculate required amount material and prevent overspending and the purchase of excess.

Some drawings from our project:

Fig.3. Wall frame made of metal profile

Fig.4. Drywall wall

Fig.5. Scheme of installation of a metal profile and fastening of drywall

What do we have, the entrance to the premises standard size 910 mm, the plan is shown in the figure below. The red arrows indicate the places where the plasterboard walls will be completed.

Rice. 6. Plan of the room with a doorway before rework

We need to narrow the doorway by 200mm and get the right slats so that we can install a standard 600mm door and, after installing the door, do not cut off one trim on both sides of the doorway.

Fig.7. Plan of the room with a doorway after alteration

What do you need for this job.

1. U - shaped ceiling metal profile, size 25x25 mm - 4 pcs;
2. Two wooden bars, 35x35 mm in size - 2 pcs;
3. Dowel-nails for attaching the profile to the walls and floor - 20 pcs;
4. Prosekatel, for connecting a metal profile to each other;
5. Drywall - 1 sheet;
6. Black self-tapping screws for metal with a fine pitch;
7. Perforator;
8. Screwdriver;
9. Scissors for metal;
10. Gypsum plaster - Rotbant;
11. A hammer.

As can be seen from the project drawing, we need to make four identical structures from a U-shaped metal profile. Which we fix in the doorway with dowel-nails. What happened, see Fig. eight.

Fig.8. Metal carcass from U-shaped profile

For the rigidity of the whole structure between metal profiles we install wooden bars, in the future a self-tapping screw will be screwed into it, which will hold the door in the opening. See fig. 9.

Rice. 9. Strengthening the structure with a wooden bar

As a result, we get such a design, see Fig. ten.

Rice. 10. Frame made of U-shaped profile on both sides of the doorway

To create a perfect fit of the drywall sheet to the wall, we coat this place gypsum plaster, see fig. eleven.

Rice. 11. Apply gypsum plaster

We cut off a strip of drywall of the desired size and install it in its place, securing it with self-tapping screws to metal structure, see fig. 12.

Rice. 12. The first strip of drywall

In the same way, we install the remaining three strips of drywall and align the resulting surfaces with existing walls using gypsum plaster, see fig. 13 and fig 14.

Rice. 13. Plastering plasterboard surfaces

Rice. 14. Plastering surfaces on the reverse side of the opening

After the plaster has completely dried, we measure the width of the resulting walls. We cut off the drywall strips of the required length and width, install them at the ends of our walls and fix them with self-tapping screws, see fig. fifteen.

Rice. 15. Drywall end strips

We install doors and platbands and as a result we get such a neat doorway without any undercuts, see fig. 16 and fig. 17

Rice. 16. Door from the side of the room

Rice. 17. Door from the side of the corridor.

Obtained neat corners with the plinth installed, see fig. 18 and fig. 19.

Fig.18. Plinth installed in the corner of the room

Fig.19. Plinth installed in the corner of the corridor

Yes, the doorway has become narrower, but it is enough to bring all the furniture into the bedroom.

small video

How to reduce the width of the doorway with a bar

In our opinion, such a smart way to reduce the doorway is suitable for houses whose walls are made of wood. Where not needed finishing walls with plaster and putty.

To reduce the doorway with a beam, it is necessary to measure the thickness of the doorway, then order wooden blocks of the desired size and fix them with self-tapping screws in the existing doorway.

How to reduce a doorway with a brick

This method is ideal for brick houses, which have a large wall thickness. To make the most reliable design, the doorway must be reduced with a brick.

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Quite often it turns out that the frame of the interior door is narrower than the thickness of the wall cut and you have to use an additional plank to eliminate this mismatch. Today we will tell you how to build up a box with an additional plank and what material the additional elements are made of.

If you have decided either a different city, then it is much easier to choose the ones you like door structures based on their appearance and features of the material, rather than ordering a door of a certain thickness, taking into account the width of the cut interior partitions. In this case, the doors will cost less, and the discrepancy between the thickness of the box and the walls is compensated by the additional plank. This element should be selected taking into account the color of the door, the material for its production is MDF or chipboard, and the thickness of the strips ranges from 10 to 16 mm. Thicker additional elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, thinner ones are fixed with wood glue.

It is difficult to give preference to any additional material, but it is easier to fix the element with glue, besides, during adhesive fixation, you will not have to mechanically damage the box with self-tapping screws and it will be less likely to deform during operation.

When choosing an extension, also pay attention to the fact that after installation the clearance between it and the wall is one centimeter; shorter distance will make it difficult to work with mounting foam, and more can lead to deformation of the extension after foaming the voids between the wall cut and the door frame.

Installing the trim plate.

On the back of the box there is a special groove for adding, it is into it that the extension element should be inserted, but this should be done only after the box itself is completely fixed. First, measure the exact distance from the groove to the edge of the wall, then cut the extension along the length with a hand saw or electric jigsaw. You can try to pick exact width trims when buying, but this is difficult, and if you buy an extension for several doors and it is impossible, therefore it is best to purchase an additional element with a margin, since it is easy to cut and is inexpensive.

Depending on the thickness, the extension inserted into the groove is fixed with small self-tapping screws or glue. In the second case, you must pre-lubricate adhesive composition the groove and the end of the extension, then insert the element into the groove and press firmly for a dozen or two seconds. It is important that the insertion angle of the planks is exactly 90 degrees, so insert them tightly into the groove, pressing along the entire length.

As a rule, the gap between the extension and the wall is filled with mounting foam, after which the door perimeter is decorated with a platband.

Dmitry Shekhovtsev