Thermostats are small in size, but very practical devices in everyday life...
During runtime cosmetic repairs, you can get free access to almost any surface area. However, in almost every room there is a place where it is very difficult to get to. This place is the surface of the wall behind the radiator. We will consider in detail how the walls behind the heating radiator are decorated in this article. In particular, we will consider the issue of finishing the wall behind the battery without removing it.
When working with the area behind the radiator, the first thing, of course, is to try to remove the battery. Today, heating radiators are mainly found in two types: aluminum and cast iron. Moreover, both types of radiators differ in the connection method.
How to remove a heating radiator for wall decoration
For all radiators, aluminum, cast iron, and other materials general principle connections are the same. Regardless of the number of sections, the battery has a tap that regulates the flow hot water, return shut-off valve, and Mayevsky valve - an air vent designed to release an air plug from the radiator.
Battery connection diagram. If there is a small number of sections, the plug and return pipe are swapped.
On the hot water supply and return in the radiators, couplings with union nuts are installed, to which a water control valve is attached at the top using nuts, and a shut-off valve at the bottom. After both taps, couplings with external or internal threads are installed. And after the released couplings, either American couplings with clamping nuts or couplings for crimping are installed. One way or another, the supply and return heating pipes are connected to the latter.
The nut that must be unscrewed to remove the battery. In order to remove aluminum radiator, initially it is necessary to close the water supply control valve and close the return valve. After this, you need to open the Mayevsky tap. Its external design may vary. Modern air blowers have a comfortable handle. The old-style air vents are opened using a screwdriver, which completely unscrews the bolt.
At the next stage, a basin or low bucket is installed under the battery to be removed and, using either 2 wrenches or 2 adjustable wrenches, the union nuts connecting the radiator couplings to the taps are unscrewed. Considering that the air vent was previously opened, you then need to wait until all the water drains from the radiator and remove the battery itself from the brackets.
How to disconnect a cast iron radiator from metal pipes
As a rule, in old cast iron batteries the pipe connections are as follows. At the water inlet and outlet of the radiator, cast iron adapter couplings are installed - futorka. The external thread of the fitting allows it to be screwed into the hole of the last section. The thread cut into the inner hole of the fitting is designed to connect a 1/2-inch metal pipe. After the fitting, a metal pressure washer is located on the thread of the metal pipe.
In old houses with cast iron radiators, as a rule, there are no taps for regulating the water supply and a shut-off valve. All shut-off valves are usually located in one place at the outlet and at the water inlet to the gas boiler, or in the basement, if we are talking about an old apartment building connected to central system heating.
Connection diagram cast iron radiator heating. In the figure the numbers indicate:
1 – pressure washer (lock nut);
2 – transition coupling (futorka);
3 – gasket under the futor;
4 – base of the cast iron section.
After making sure that the water supply to the radiator is shut off, using 2 adjustable wrenches, initially release the pressure washer on the pipe, approximately 4-5 cm. After this, placing a container under the battery to collect water, unscrew the fitting from the radiator section, which will move along the thread on the pipe towards the released washer. In this case, it is advisable to count and remember the number of revolutions, since the installation of the radiator will be reverse sequential.
Finishing the walls behind the battery without dismantling it
By various reasons It is not always possible to remove radiators. For example, if the repair is carried out in winter and there is a radiator at the inlet and outlet, but there are no shut-off valves. In this case, there are two options. If the battery is installed close to the wall, that is, the gap is minimal, only 10-20 mm, then it is better to wait until the end heating season and still temporarily remove the battery. If the gap between the radiator is 4-5 cm, then you can finish the wall surface without removing the battery.
Plastering and puttying behind the battery
It will not be possible to completely plaster the walls behind the radiator without removing it. That is, you can plaster cement-sand mortar, but without grout. The walls behind the radiator will need to be completely leveled using putty. For application plaster mortar or putties use an aluminum strip 150 cm long or more and only 3-5 cm wide. The thickness of the strip should be about 4-5 mm so that the strip does not bend during operation.
When plastering or puttying, the solution is initially made of a thick consistency so that it does not flow off the aluminum strip. A solution or putty is applied to the edge of the entire length of the strip and the strip is passed between the battery and the wall at an angle of 45 degrees. The work is similar to the principle of plastering with the rule, but here the main inconvenience is associated with the battery located on the wall.
Painting, priming the walls behind the battery
Considering the small gap between the battery and the wall, it is more convenient to perform priming and painting with a roller with a small diameter - a mini roller. Mini-rollers rarely appear in wide sale, so you often have to make them yourself from improvised materials, using only its holder from a standard roller. You can also use homemade brushes or ottomans to apply paint to the wall surface. They use aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.8-10 mm as a handle, which can be bent at the desired angle during painting. In addition, radiator brushes are available for sale. A radiator brush is a curved brush with a long handle.
Mini roller for working behind heating radiators. 
Radiator brush. Gluing wallpaper to the wall behind the radiator
When wallpapering behind a radiator, the surface of the wall is first covered with glue. The glue is applied in the same way as paint and primer. Next, use a roller to cover the back side of the cut piece of wallpaper. After this, a piece of wallpaper is passed behind the battery and in order to press it tightly to the wall surface and smooth it, use a second dry and clean mini-roller or ottoman on a flexible handle made of thick aluminum wire.
Gluing tiles behind the battery
Gluing tiles behind a radiator If the height and width of the battery are relatively small, for example, a radiator of 5 sections, then tiles can be laid on the wall behind it. The problem can only arise with the brackets on which the battery hangs. You will have to mark the tiles so that the horizontal seam between the tiles falls exactly on the location of the two brackets. If the brackets are made of smooth reinforcement, then small notches are made on the edges of the tile, thereby the upper and lower tiles will encircle the bracket released from the wall.
Other methods of finishing walls behind radiators
If it is very difficult to get close to the battery and it is unrealistic to remove it in the near future, then behind the radiator to the wall you can mount a glass-magnesite sheet (GML) on dowels, which can be pre-painted in the desired color. You can also glue wallpaper or tiles to the sheet. The advantage of SML is that it can be purchased with any thickness from 2 to 10 mm. It should also be noted the good thermal insulation and waterproofing qualities of glass-magnesite sheets. In addition to LSU, you can use other sheet materials, for example plasterboard, plywood, chipboard.
Installation of glass-magnesite sheet behind the battery Screens for radiators
Another solution when finishing the wall behind the radiator and decorating radiators is to use screens for radiators. They are perforated panels made of various materials and come in a variety of patterns and colors. Such panels cover the wall along with the batteries. Thus, part of the wall behind the battery itself is hidden from view. The downside of this solution is a slight reduction in heat from the battery.
Screen for radiators. When performing repairs, there will always be several bottlenecks that cause certain difficulties. The space between the radiator and the wall, which also needs to be decorated, will be narrow in the literal sense of the word. Next, we’ll look at how to decorate the walls behind heating radiators with your own hands using improvised means.
Complex option
At the same time and the simplest from the point of view finishing works, and the most difficult solution in terms of preparation will be the removal of the heater. Preparation will consist mainly of removing the battery completely. Not every House master will be able to cope with this, but in winter, in the absence of a water shut-off tap, this simply becomes impossible. If removing the radiator is not a problem for you, then the repair itself is not difficult - the technology for performing all the work will not differ from the rest of the room.
Therefore, there are only two ways to prepare everything here: remove the heating device yourself or call a technician who will first remove it and then, after some time, install it back. You will need to call it twice - for removal and installation, and this will require additional costs. In this regard, finishing the wall with a battery and removing it is one of the most costly and in difficult ways surface repair. It is much easier to make repairs without removing anything.
A simpler approach
The complexity of the work in this case depends on what kind of material needs to be used to decorate the surface. If it is paint, then everything will be very simple - you just need to purchase a special brush with a curved handle or make something like a thin roller yourself by attaching a foam coat to a wire. With other materials it is more difficult, and there are several finishing options:
- Plaster
- Foam
- Tile
The most difficult thing will be with the tiles - they do not bend, it is difficult to push them into the narrow space behind the radiator, and it is even more difficult to align the tiles relative to each other. In addition, you will have to cut grooves in some of the tiles into which the brackets on which the heater hangs will fit. That is why finishing the walls behind the radiator with tiles is usually done with the removal of the heating device.
It is not so difficult to deal with wallpaper and the most important point will be to press the panel tightly to the surface. The cut canvas is smeared with glue, inserted behind the radiator and leveled there using a long brush with a curved handle or other suitable device. It will not be possible to completely remove the bubbles, but in this place they are practically invisible and this moment will not be the most critical. The main thing is to glue the piece of wallpaper well so that it does not come off later.
The panels are also easy to install. They can be fixed with glue or with lathing. In the first case, the work is simple and there is no need to consider it separately. The second case is not so simple. You will have to arm yourself with a screwdriver with a very long blade in order to be able to screw the panels through the heater sections. In addition, finishing the walls behind the heating radiators with panels on the sheathing is possible without removing them only if the panels are arranged vertically. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to install the sheathing. The most difficult case with plaster and it is worth talking about separately.
In addition to all the above methods for decorating the surface behind the radiator, there is another universal option that is not suitable in all cases - decorating the walls behind the radiator with ceiling tiles. It is simply glued to the desired surface, easily inserted into a narrow space. However, this method is not always suitable, since the designed surface will differ from the rest of the space.
Plaster
It is very difficult to apply the solution onto a plane. For the work you will need a thin metal strip, 3 - 5 centimeters wide and 10 - 15 centimeters longer than the radiator. The plaster or putty is diluted a little thicker than usual so that it does not flow off the narrow strip of metal. The solution is applied to the edge of the strip along its entire length, and the strip itself with the applied mixture is passed through the space behind the battery, at an angle of forty-five degrees. The process is very similar to working with the rule - plastering must be done according to the same principle.
When the solution is applied to the entire area behind the heating device, the mixture must be given time to dry, and then, using the same metal strip Sand the surface by attaching sandpaper to it.
The solution to the problem of how to close batteries, which do not always have an elegant, decorative and attractive appearance, must take into account not only the aesthetic component. What looks good in a photo can actually lead to a significant decrease in the temperature in the house. It is important to take into account that in addition to a purely decorative function, a panel (screen, box), which helps to decorate heating appliances, also performs quite an important function in families with small children. functional purpose, protecting the child from both burns and sharp corners batteries. Therefore, we will consider the decor of the radiator in the room from the perspective of three specialists at once - a designer, a heating engineer and a plumber
The problem is how to hide it in the apartment Radiator and the pipe supplying coolant can be considered from two aspects. The first is on the eve of a major overhaul, when it is possible (and necessary) to replace the battery. In this case, you can select and install designer batteries and then the issue will disappear by itself, and the heating efficiency will not decrease (more on this below). For example, if we are talking about a room in a classic Victorian style, then you cannot do without cast iron radiators, powerful, massive, on a stand, with casting in sections - such radiators will become a stylish detail of the overall interior.
Another thing is when the repair does not involve replacing the plumbing, in this case there are several options for how and with what to close the battery.
Painting
The easiest way to hide the battery is to simply paint it to match the wall near which the radiator is mounted. Just need to buy special paint for painting batteries. This is an option when radiators match the overall style of the room
Hanging screens
Screen box
Allows you to completely decorate the entire heating radiator, while you can simply make such a screen for the battery yourself from wood, the diagram is shown in Fig. 1.
At the same time, the box can not only hide an aesthetically unsightly radiator, but also act as additional element furniture, for example, stands for vases, shelves, or can become part of rack or console. Decorative wooden box can be made so that it fully matches the style and decor of the room. Its main disadvantage is the closed top, which significantly reduces the efficiency of convection. In addition, the tree dries out when the temperature changes. In this regard, screens (boxes) made of MDF, which are both cheaper and more durable, look preferable.
Advice! If the radiator is located far enough from the wall, then by combining a window sill and a frame, you can make a bench for romantic gatherings by the window.
Plastic gratings
Cheap, but at the same time definitely not for residential premises, they will hide the battery/pipe, but when heated they can release compounds dangerous to humans, especially if the panel (grid) is made of cheap plastic by a “gray” manufacturer.
Advice! Plastic screens are suitable for non-residential premises, taking into account their resistance to high humidity - for bathrooms.
Glass screen
A glass panel, as a rule, is a rectangular sheet made of translucent thick glass, which is attached to the wall with steel holders. Making it possible to decorate the heating device from the front, it leaves open space below and above and does not interfere with free air convection. A popular solution is a glass panel with photo printing.
The main task of a heating radiator is to heat the room, which it does by a combination of two methods. The first is infrared radiation, in which heat is transferred directly to objects located in the room. It is this thermal energy that we feel when we bring our hands close to the battery. The second method is convection, by heating the air, which, rising upward, displaces the cold air, thus organizing air circulation in the room, which leads to a more or less uniform distribution of temperature.
Therefore, you should immediately decide on the main thing - no matter what method is chosen to hide pipes and radiators in the apartment, any decoration of the radiator will definitely lead to a loss of heater power. A simple example is installing a glass screen that almost completely blocks infrared radiation. And the larger the solid (without holes) area of the cover (screen) on the battery, the “deeper” the battery is hidden, the more significant the losses will be. Solid (solid, without holes) boxes on top of the radiator are especially unacceptable - because they block the warm air rising upward. The photo below shows a particularly unfortunate design designed to decorate the battery.
On the one hand, it never fully fulfills its role - the supply pipe is very clearly visible. On the other hand, there are very small holes that significantly reduce the movement (convection) of warm air, and a solid screen (even a metal one) blocked thermal radiation. That is why, from the point of view of thermal engineering, the ideal choice is a panel made as a coarse mesh.
In Fig. 2 is presented in cross-section practically optimal model radiator grilles.
Infrared (also known as direct thermal) radiation, indicated by red arrows (3), passes through the grating (D) with minimal losses. It is worth paying attention to the thermal insulation screen (A), which reflects heat (part of the infrared radiation) and, instead of aimlessly heating the walls, returns it back to the room.
Cold air (indicated by blue arrow 1), entering from below, heats up and rises. To prevent heated air from stagnating under the window sill, forming a thermal cushion that blocks convection, install a visor (B) that directs the air flow outward. It is also worth installing an injector (two metal plates) in the upper part, which allows heated air to be removed from the front side of the radiator. It is especially effective at high temperatures, due to the narrowing at the top, the draft increases significantly and the volume of exhaust air increases significantly. Despite the installed grille, the overall energy efficiency of such a design will be significantly higher than with simply installing the battery near the wall.
The second, no less important point is the accessibility of the radiator and supply pipes. It's no secret that the battery is one of the potential sources of problems in the apartment. Any radiator can leak - there are many reasons for this, from water hammer to poor quality material. In addition, given the low quality of the coolant (water), it may be necessary to remove the battery in order to wash it - otherwise, the number of actively heating sections will be constantly reduced. So, from a plumbing point of view, the best cover (panel) for the battery should provide easy access to the radiator - either not have a permanent fastening, or be attached.
Advice! At the very least, it is necessary to install a “revision” (plastic door), which will give access to the place where the pipe is supplied to the radiator - as experience shows, this is the weakest point in the entire system.
How to close the battery - we look at the options in the video:
Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - this depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combination ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time.
Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - this depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices(such as a combination ladder), facilitating access to hard-to-reach places and, therefore, saving time. For example, you can shield areas that should not be exposed to paint. Try to plan everything in advance and have all the necessary equipment at your disposal.
To achieve a high-quality result, it is best to work along horizontal guide bars that will be located at the same level. This is necessary in order to avoid discrepancies in both horizontal and vertical tile levels.
When working with window openings, you should first tackle the facing walls. Typically this work is done using solid tiles. Only after this process is completed can you begin finishing the side walls and window sills. In this case, so-called edged tiles are most often used, that is, not solid ones. It is also worth noting that it is advisable to start cladding from the side of the window, and not from the top.
It is also important to remember that in some situations it becomes necessary to make holes or cutouts in the tile itself. Therefore, it is advisable to have the necessary tools on hand, such as a tile cutter or file.
Nowadays this is practically the most used type of wallpaper. Vinyl wallpapers consist of three-layer paper - vinyl. They imitate well such types of finishing as painting, textiles, plaster, etc. They are easy to wash. Another advantage is the inconspicuousness of the joints between the canvases. Vinyl wallpaper hides wall defects quite well. Modern vinyl wallpapers allow air to pass through well, thanks to a special layer. But they are, of course, more expensive than paper ones.
3. Velor wallpaper
Velor wallpaper is made on a paper base onto which tequila fibers are glued. These wallpapers are very beautiful, as they have a pleasant velvety appearance. The disadvantage is that they wear out quickly and that they cannot be used for wet cleaning.
So you have chosen the type of wallpaper and its color, and decided on the number of rolls. Now you can start the actual gluing.
Pasting the walls
It is first necessary to prepare the walls for gluing. There should be no greasy stains, loose plaster, large depressions or protrusions on the walls. All this needs to be cleaned, the depressions should be plastered. The walls must be dry.
Now we close all the windows and doors. When pasting, drafts are not allowed.
After rolling out the roll on the floor, cut off the first panel. Immediately, after matching the pattern, cut off the second one. Remember that you need to leave a margin of about 5cm (calculation for shrinkage and unevenness of the wall)
Apply glue to the wall and panel using a brush or roller. The glue you use depends on the type of wallpaper. When purchasing wallpaper, it is better to consult the seller about the choice of glue for it.
Wait about five minutes. Now you can glue the strip to the wall.
Gluing the first sheet is the most important moment when wallpapering. You need to glue it strictly vertically. To do this, use a plumb line.
They begin gluing from the top, smoothing the “wallpaper” from top to bottom in the center. Then smooth the panel from the center to the edges. All this is done with a soft brush or clean rag.
Now, according to the drawing, cut the third panel. Stick the second one on the wall. Etc.
The bottom edge of the strips is cut so that only the edge of the baseboard is covered.
After the room is pasted around the perimeter, the upper edge of the wallpaper is covered with a special edge, matched to the color of the wallpaper or with a ceiling plinth.
Some tips
Do not wallpaper behind radiators. In this place it is better to finish the wall by painting, since a lot of dust accumulates behind the batteries, and removing it from there is quite problematic.
Sockets are a rather difficult place to paste. Glue the strip as usual, then make two diagonal cuts in the area of the rosette, peel back the wallpaper and cut it to the shape of the rosette. Same with switches.
Near door and window openings, wallpaper is glued with a margin of 5 cm. Then it is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and glued to the edge of the opening. The excess is cut off.
How to get rid of mold?
Among modern construction and finishing materials, there are practically none that cannot be affected by mold. Microscopic spores are present everywhere, and as soon as they find themselves in a favorable environment (humidity more than 70% and temperature not lower than 15 degrees), they immediately begin to grow. Mold can cause any disease, from allergies to cancer.
Reasons for appearance
Conventional physical mold removal can only provide temporary results. In order to get rid of mold on the walls once and for all, you first need to determine the reasons for its appearance.
Most often, the occurrence of fungus is observed in rooms with high humidity - in corner rooms, in bathrooms, in basements, and when the roof leaks. For a long time now, black mold has taken a liking to panels with leaky interpanel joints.
Mold control
If mold stains have already appeared, you can remove mold from the walls using special antiseptics, which are present in great abundance on the shelves of building materials stores. Any product for removing mold on walls is, first of all, poison. Therefore, you need to be extremely careful when working with such products. Before starting, it is advisable to carefully study the instructions for use.
Plastic windows
In autumn and winter, windows cry because they are exposed to cold from the outside and heat from the room. At the same time, any increase in temperature and humidity in the room causes a “tearful” reaction of the windows.
Thanks to the good insulation of modern plastic windows, air exchange between the apartment and the street becomes almost impossible. But such insulation is effective in combating cold, noise and insects. However, without air exchange, the humidity in the apartment increases and the air stagnates. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the room to eliminate excess humidity, which can lead to fogging of the glass unit and the appearance of damp spots. And to create a favorable climate in the house, ventilation should be done regularly.
* ventilate the rooms at least once a day (opening the window for 10-15 minutes)
* if the humidity is high, it is necessary to ventilate the room more intensively. Room humidity should not exceed 30%
* rooms should be well heated. And the window sills should cover the batteries no more than 2/3. Or be equipped with openings for access of warm air to the windows
Step-by-step instruction
* dismantle wallpaper from affected areas
* use a special spatula to remove the layer where it has become soft and loose due to mold
* thoroughly clean the affected area of the wall
* we treat the affected areas, as well as the entire surface of the wall, with a special solution (to prevent the appearance of mold)
* it is necessary to re-treat the solution after 4-5 hours
* we prime the wall with an antiseptic solution
With your own hands
WALL FINISHING WITH FABRIC.
decorating walls with fabric with your own hands Decorating walls with fabric is bringing back unfairly lost popularity. In fact, our great-great-grandmothers knew a lot about organization, which became significantly more comfortable after decorating the walls with fabrics. Damasks, tapestries, jacquard fabrics - everything served one purpose - to create a cozy and harmonious composition.
It's hard to argue, because everything is true, until the last word. The fabric really makes the room feel homely and comfortable, and at the same time, somehow especially solemn. Let's say a few words about whether it is possible to decorate walls with fabric yourself.
Quite possible! However, to implement daring plans you will need to make some effort.
Important:
1 - choose the right fabric. In principle, any one will suit you, but natural ones, with high-quality prints (or without them), a small pattern step and not overly stretched are preferable.
2 - Decide on the method of attaching the fabric to the wall. If yours is perfect smooth walls, sewn into, then you can quite easily nail the fabric without first creating complex structures. (Please note that the distance between the nails should not exceed 25 cm, otherwise the fabric will look bad and sag over time). If your walls leave much to be desired, then you can, without much processing, stretch the fabric onto a specially created frame, leaving the door and window openings uncovered.
3 - If you chose the second option in the previous paragraph, then consider several important points. Firstly, there is no need to try to form frames for the entire wall, since the fabric can sag, not stretch enough, deform the frame and be difficult to attach to the wall. Secondly, when choosing slats for the frame, avoid those that have rounded corners.
By itself, such a frame looks normal, but when joined to adjacent canvases it will form a too noticeable joint. Thirdly, if your plans include upholstering the walls with leather, then the frames need to be created smaller than for upholstering the walls with fabric. This is not only more practical, but also much more aesthetically pleasing.
4 - Find out if additional processing of the fabric is necessary. The latter is carried out to strengthen the material, prevent its premature fading, facilitate care and even enhance the brightness of the pattern. Today, most often we find already processed materials, which makes fabric processing much easier and faster.
Prices / Order
| Name of works | Unit. | Price rub |
| Construction of openings for doors, arches, etc.: in brick (1/2 brick) | m² | 2300 |
| Construction of an opening in 14 cm thick reinforced concrete | m² | 4000 |
| Construction of an opening in 18 cm thick reinforced concrete | m² | 5000 |
| Brickwork in 1/4 brick | m² | 580 |
| Brickwork in 1/2 brick | m² | 740 |
| Brickwork in 1 brick | m² | 1100 |
| Display of beacons | m/n | 35 |
| Installation of plaster mesh on the wall | m² | 50 |
| Plastering brickwork up to 3 cm | m² | 530 |
| Plastering brickwork over 3 cm in several stages | m² | 690 |
| Plastering wooden walls with pre-upholstery with shingles or mesh | m² | 620 |
| Plastering concrete walls up to 3 cm | m² | 530 |
| Plaster concrete walls from 3 to 6 cm | m² | 690 |
| Plastering concrete walls from 6 cm to 8 cm | m² | 750 |
| Plastering walls of non-flat shapes (semicircular, elliptical and other shapes) | m² | 900 |
| Plastering door slopes up to 30 cm | m/n | 400 |
| Plastering door slopes from 30 to 60 cm | m/n | 450 |
| Plastering window slopes up to 30 cm wide | m/n | 380 |
| Plastering window slopes from 30 to 60 cm wide | m/n | 450 |
| Plastering arched slopes | m/n | 600 |
| Gluing rusts and joints of slabs with serpyanka | m/n | 80 |
| Gluing walls with reinforcing mesh | m² | 100 |
| Prime the walls after each cycle of work | m² | 50 |
| Sealing seams on drywall | m² | 200 |
| Putty for painting | m² | 550 |
| Putty (vinyl) | m² | 350 |
| Gluing walls with cork soundproofing material for painting work | m² | 280 |
| Gluing walls with decorative cork soundproofing material for concrete | m² | 340 |
| Pasting with glass wallpaper | m² | 300 |
| Pasting regular wallpaper (vinyl, paper) | m² | 280 |
| Pasting with embossed wallpaper | m² | 320 |
| Pasting with textile wallpaper | m² | 380 |
| Wallpapering in two levels | m² | 300 |
| Wallpapering border | m/n | 80 |
| Spray painting | m² | 280 |
| Wall cladding with wall panels | m² | 460 |
| Wall covering with polystyrene panels | m² | 440 |
| Wall cladding with brick or stone tiles (on a prepared surface) | m² | 950 |
| Facing arches with corner tiles | m/n | 950 |
| Cladding with ceramic wall tiles: one pattern, with “decors” (on the prepared surface) | m² | 1300 |
| Installing a curb | m/n | 250 |
| Tiling over 38*28 cm | m² | 1200 |
| Tiling size 10*10 | m² | 1000 |
| Tiling (mosaic) | m² | 1500 |
| Washed down the ends of ceramic tiles (porcelain tiles) at 45 degrees | m/n | 350 |
| Cutting ceramic tiles (porcelain tiles) according to patterns (cutting on one side) | m/n | 400 |
| Cladding with reinforced tile panels | m² | 1400 |
| Cutting holes in tiles | PC | 150 |
| Grouting joints | m² | 80 |
| Installing a protective paint corner | m/n | 60 |
| Installation of decorative (protective) plastic corners | m/n | 80 |
| Installation of decorative (protective) wooden corners, sanding and varnishing | m/n | 260 |
| Laying glass block partitions and windows | PC | 340 |
| Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary production of the frame in one layer | m² | from 650 |
| Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary production of the frame in two layers | m² | from 950 |
| Installation of drywall on a wall with pre-sheathing of the wall | m² | from 600 |
| Installation of drywall on the wall in two layers | m² | from 700 |
| Insulation with mineral wool | m² | 100 |
How to choose materials for interior decoration of a house
After the construction of the house, the final step is always the interior decoration. Upon completion, the home is finally...
In this article we will not consider issues related to design - this is a separate big topic, but we will analyze the most common materials used and the technologies for installing these materials.
Lining
It can be wooden or plastic. The advantage of wooden lining is that it is environmentally friendly, vapor permeable and easy to install. The room, lined with wooden clapboards, looks warm and cozy. Disadvantages - it requires painting or impregnation and is relatively expensive.
Wooden lining comes in several grades (highest, 1st and 2nd) and, accordingly, has different prices. When purchasing, check the boards for curl, the presence of black fallen knots, evenness, and integrity of the tenon and groove. Typically, lining is produced in the form of boards of standard length - 2, 3 or 6 m, the so-called modules. If the length of the wall is more than 6 m, then most likely you will have to make a gap, which can then be closed with a strip.
Also, when choosing a lining, you need to make sure that it is well dried. This required condition, otherwise, over time, as a result of shrinkage, the boards at the joints may separate, up to the appearance of through cracks.
Plastic lining (PVC) is more durable and cheaper than wooden lining and does not require additional processing, but, alas, it is less environmentally friendly (it is plastic after all) and, accordingly, is less suitable for interior decoration.
Any lining is fastened to a special sheathing frame, which can be part of the wall or attached to the surface of the finished wall.
For example, if the clapboard board in a panel house is mounted horizontally, then you only need to “strengthen” our main frame by adding additional vertical posts from 100✕50 mm or 150✕25 mm boards in order to ensure a step between them of no more than 70 cm. For brick, log, or it will be enough to fix vertical bars of 50✕50 mm on the walls (set according to the level) with the same step of 70 cm and, using pads, place them in the same plane. If the span between the elements of the fastening frame is made larger, then deformation of the installed lining is possible - deflection of the boards and their twisting.
If the lining is sewn vertically, then it is necessary to install additional horizontal sheathing, for example, from a 150✕25 board - in the case of a panel house, or the same board or beam 50x50 horizontally along the walls with a step of 70 cm - in the case of a log house, timber and stone house.
When positioned horizontally, we start sheathing from the bottom. The bottom board is installed on the frame with the tenon facing up, adjusted strictly to the level and secured. The next board is placed with a groove on the tenon of the previous board. The tenon does not always fit into the groove easily. This may be hampered by manufacturing defects or deformations from improper drying. Typically, the longer the board, the more difficult it is to “put” it evenly and tightly onto the one below. Therefore, the lining is usually “settled” - finished off through a wooden spacer in those places where a gap occurs.
Then the board is secured. Usually they use nails, driving them into the base of the tenon, but not perpendicular to the surface, but with a slight slope. Then the next board will cover the head with its groove and the wall will be “clean”. It is preferable to use galvanized nails with a reduced head 50-60 mm long.
You can also fasten the lining using clamps - specially shaped steel strips. They are put on the clapboard tenon and secured to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. The point of using clamps is the same - to get a “clean” wall.
The horizontality is checked with a level every 2-3 boards. It is necessary to achieve the tightest possible fit, since over time, as the wood dries out, the gaps between the boards will increase noticeably.
Vertical cladding is done in the same way, with the exception that the boards should be installed perpendicular to the floor.
Plywood
For internal cladding, sanded moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm is usually used. It is installed on a frame similar to the frame for installing lining with a step between elements of 60 cm. The joints between the sheets of plywood are covered with strips, and the finished wall is coated with varnish or paint. The decorative qualities of plywood are low, so this finish is used mainly for utility rooms or serves as a basis for wallpapering.
Plaster
This type of work is usually carried out on masonry walls, such as brickwork or the surface of wall blocks. For ease of application, as well as reliable fastening of the plaster layer, plaster meshes are often pre-installed. The optimal thickness of the plaster layer is 1-2 cm. Plastering walls is a complex job that requires a certain skill, so we recommend entrusting this work to professionals - you will save time and effort.
A separate class is plasters with a top (front) textured layer. The composition contains particles of a given size, such as small stones or plastic balls up to 3 mm in size. When applying textured plaster, a certain texture and pattern is formed.
To apply such plaster, a flat “base” is required - as a rule, this is a layer of ordinary plaster or any other flat surface. A special reinforcing mesh is glued onto such a base. Working with textured plasters is even more difficult than working with conventional plasters; as a rule, this requires taking a special training course.
Decorative panels
Such panels are an expensive finishing material, but they are a real boon for the designer. They are very beautiful, environmentally friendly and easy to install. They are commercially available in elements of various shapes, lengths and widths. The market offers solid panels made from various types of wood, chipboard covered with veneer, and plastic of a wide variety of textures, including “stone-like”, “granite-like”, “marble-like”. We can also include ceramic wall tiles, porcelain tiles, and so on among decorative panels.
To install decorative panels, you need a level surface smooth surface, in this version they can be installed with glue. If the walls are uneven and not covered with a leveling layer, for example, plaster, then a lathing frame is needed to attach the panels. The pitch and location of the frame elements are selected based on the size and shape of the decorative panels.
Drywall, gypsum fiber
These are panels of different sizes, 9-12 mm thick, filled with gypsum, covered on both sides with special cardboard or fiberglass. Their use makes it possible to obtain smooth, lightweight walls at minimal cost. In addition, gypsum fiber has an increased fire resistance.
You can install plasterboard panels yourself. The basis for installation is a frame made of light metal profiles, less often wooden blocks. The metal profile frame includes a rack profile, ceiling profile, connecting profiles, etc. To connect individual elements of the metal frame, standard connecting parts are provided - crosses, extensions, as well as brackets for fastening to walls.
The frame is installed as follows: in the plane of the future wall, a rack profile is placed vertically in a level with a pitch of 60 cm and attached to the floor and ceiling. Horizontal profiles are “cut” into it and fixed with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the horizontal profiles is 60 cm. To further strengthen the structure, whenever possible, the frame is attached to the rough walls using brackets.
Drywall panels are mounted on a finished frame using self-tapping screws. The joints of the panels are sealed with a special tape, after which the entire surface is puttied, primed, and then painted or wallpapered.
In what cases does it make sense to use plasterboard walls?
● When it is necessary to hide defects in an existing wall with a curved or untreated surface, with which nothing can be done.
● If you need to mount a partition that does not load the structures located below, since plasterboard partitions are very light.
● If necessary, make a complex design solution with a large number of shaped elements, complex surfaces, protrusions, niches, etc.
Finishing touches on the wall
After the main surface of the wall is covered, all that remains is to install the final finishing elements. These include corners, baseboards, platbands, flashings, etc. These elements, in addition to their main function - hiding joint errors - give the room a finished look. The market offers a wide variety of such elements from a variety of materials and for every taste. Finding something to realize any design ideas will not be difficult.
Walls play a major role in interior design. It is important that they are smooth and tastefully finished, then they, together with furniture and decorative elements, make up a complete design.
The interior looks impeccable when complex places in the decoration are done with high quality
But it often turns out that finishing the wall behind the battery is relegated to the background, and they remember it when it is already clearly noticeable that unfinished batteries are spoiling the whole picture.
Design nuances
The installation location of the radiator is one of the most difficult to reach for finishing, whether the battery is mounted or hidden in a niche. The difficulty is that bulky heaters occupy the entire niche space, and hot water supply pipes, jumper and return pipes interfere with free access to the wall. It makes the most sense not to put off the issue of finishing the space behind the radiators until later, but to do it simultaneously with the main walls at each stage of the repair. This is ideal if you bought an apartment in a new building and ordered a turnkey renovation or are building your own house, then the designer will think through everything to the smallest detail and the heater will organically fit into his idea.
Exterior of trim with wood panels behind radiator
But most of us still live in Soviet buildings, which are already decades old, and during the times of Khrushchev and Brezhnev, no attention was paid to the surface behind the battery; the main thing was to quickly provide people with living space. So it turned out that the wall behind the radiator was somehow wallpapered or painted over. It is clear that over time, due to constant exposure to warm temperatures, the wallpaper peeled off and the paint peeled off. Basically, the radiators are placed under the window sill and covered with tulle and curtains, but what if you want to make a modern design and use blinds, and the square meters do not allow you to install a decorative screen on the radiator? You will have to finish the wall in this place.
When a repair is carried out to replace the radiator, it is necessary to replace the supply pipes and plaster the wall behind the radiator
Separate repairs for the battery will add the following hassle:
- in a completely done and clean room you will have to undertake mini-repairs for quite a long time;
- dust and waste from building materials pollute the air and things in the room;
- a separate mini-repair will have a bad impact on finances: buying building materials that are not used, calling a technician to remove the battery - you have to pay for this.
If you inherited sloppy walls behind the heater, you will have to make repairs. There are many options to seal the surface where the battery is located and give the wall a finished look.
Wall cladding methods
Finishing the wall behind the battery can be expensive or cheap, but in both cases it is not done quickly.
Battery repair steps:
- We remove the battery, otherwise it is impossible to fully seal the surface. When removing it yourself, first turn off the water supply valve and return valve.
- There is water in the radiator; when unscrewing it from the taps, place a low bucket or, better yet, a wide basin. The battery is removed from the mount when the water has completely drained. It’s safer to call a technician, because if the heating is on and the ball valve on the jumper is old, it’s dangerous.
- In order not to spoil the clean floor and carpets, you should stock up on large pieces of film and cover the entire path from the front door to the radiator.
- Next, we inspect the wall for defects and prepare it. We remove the bumps of old plaster and paint with a hammer and chisel, paying attention to the place where the baseboard is, it should be as even as possible.
- We remove debris and fill small cracks with putty. Once they have dried, we completely level the niche with plaster.
- The dried plaster is primed 2 times, the layers dry for 2 hours.
The radiator has been removed, the wall has been prepared, now you can choose the finishing method, and there are many of them. By the way, there are “dry” finishing options behind the battery, for which the surface does not need to be leveled, you just need to remove the protrusions and prime it.
We putty and glue wallpaper
Let's continue the topic of plaster. The method is expensive and time-consuming: you need to buy a lot of materials, and the plaster takes up to a week to dry. Beacons are not placed in the starting layer; this is a small surface; it is quite possible to level it without beacons.
After drying (up to approximately 5 days), we prime the wall, let it dry and apply the finishing coat. To save time, it is better to buy a bucket of ready-made putty. The dried surface is sanded with a sharp spatula, this way there is less dust in the room. Cut out the required pieces of wallpaper, take special glue and paste over it. They start gluing with two, so that the joint of the pieces is in the middle, behind the battery. Next, measure out the pieces of plinth, drill holes in the hay for the fastening and install it.
Installing drywall
Finishing the wall behind the battery also means finishing the wall with plasterboard. The method is well suited in a house with plasterboard walls, so there is less hassle: at the same time you make the sheathing under the gypsum board for the battery. This is also possible with brick walls. They make a metal frame on which the sheets will be attached. GCR withstands exposure very well warm temperature, does not crack over time and has low heat transfer.
In this regard, it is perfect for finishing the space behind and around the battery. If you install insulating material between the wall and the gypsum board, then 10-30% of the heat will remain in the room. You just need to remember to drill holes in the drywall so that warm air from the radiator can enter the room. The joints between the sheets are pasted over with a thin mesh and puttied. A thin layer of finishing mixture is used to level everything flush with the wall. When everything was dry, all that was left was to paint the wall.
To increase operating efficiency, a heat-reflecting film is glued behind the rear wall of the radiator
There are also special heat reflectors that direct warm air into the room, but not everyone has proven the effectiveness of such a device.
We glue plastic panels or ceiling tiles
This option is the most budget-friendly, but it allows you to give the area under the battery a well-groomed look and even well insulate the thin wall where the niche is located. We are talking about the use of modern material - foiled polyethylene foam. It is mainly used for thermal insulation. It comes with double-sided aluminum coating and single-sided, with denser polyethylene inside and regular, self-adhesive and not. The simplest one is also suitable for finishing a niche.
Rarely does anyone glue ceiling tiles anymore, but they do exist as a finishing option.
Before pasting, the wall is also prepared, but not as thoroughly as in the case of plaster. We knock down the unevenness, remove the dust with a rag, seal small cracks with a solution of alabaster and sand, it dries quickly and you can continue working. You need to carefully measure the size of each wall with a tape measure so as not to spoil the penofol. Next we glue the insulation. We use universal acrylic-based mounting adhesive from Lacrysil “Tougher than Nails” and a mounting gun. It sticks perfectly, and temperature does not affect it in any way.
They start gluing from the widest wall behind the radiator, then seal the top wall and the sides. The insulation can be covered with white or wood-like plastic panels using the same glue. The panels must be chosen the same width as the window sill protruding above the niche, so as not to cut it in this place. If necessary, the side parts are trimmed along the plank. External and internal corners are trimmed with special plastic strips to match the panels. Instead of a plinth, you can use a special strip with two sides into which panels are inserted.
The battery, like the wall behind it, can be designed as a design element, but then the wall behind it must be perfect
The second cladding option will be polystyrene foam ceiling tiles. It is easy to cut out pieces of the required sizes from them, they are sold in a variety of colors, smooth and embossed. They begin gluing from the bottom up, so that whole pieces of tile are visible in a visible place. It is better to decorate the window sill with a ceiling plinth at the first stage, and then “pull” the tiles to it. Here you can also use corner strips. The tiles near the floor can be glued at the joint to the baseboard, or you can remove it, veneer it and attach the baseboard back. In addition to decoration, ceiling tiles have good thermal insulation characteristics.
conclusions
Finishing the walls behind the radiators was much easier if it was done simultaneously with other repair work. But if this was not possible, then you can always correct the situation by using modern building materials and tools. You need to choose a finishing method based on the size of the space behind the radiator, heat loss from the wall itself, the result you want to achieve from the cladding and the cost of materials and your own skills. Then such repair work will be carried out with the least amount of money and time.
They either covered it with wallpaper or painted it as far as they could reach or crawl under the radiator. Today, finishing the wall behind the radiator is an integral part of the repair, and no matter how you are convinced that this place will be covered with a curtain, you should not neglect this operation.
In most cases finishing the wall behind the battery cannot be carried out through the installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to carry out this either before installing new radiators, or to remove the radiators during the work, making marks on the location of the battery, this will help determine the size of the surface to be finished.
Painting and gluing behind the radiator are all just temporary finishing options; due to the inaccessibility of cleaning in these places, sections of walls finished in this way quickly become unusable. We would advise laying tiles behind the radiator, which are practically eternal and undemanding to clean.
If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the level of installation of the radiator and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the level and height of the plinth that will be installed on the floor, because if a tile gets in its way, the baseboard will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which may negatively affect the appearance of the finishing being carried out.
We begin work from the bottom. We beat off the level of the tile and attach a block of the required length to the wall with dowels. Its length should be slightly larger than the area to be finished and have a margin on the right and left sides. After this, you can begin finishing, of course, having previously primed the walls. We apply the solution to the first one and mount it on the wall, placing it on a block and orienting it along the side mark. Next, the surface is leveled; if necessary, it must be tamped down in protruding places, or the solution must be added where it is lacking. After this, the tiles are aligned horizontally; if necessary, special plastic wedges for tiles are inserted between the block and the bar. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using mounting crosses for the tile. It is also set on the block using a level and wedges.
Finishing the wall behind the radiator continues in this way right up to the window sill; on the last row, the tiles, if necessary, are cut using a tile cutter in required size. After the solution has dried, the tiles are grouted. And when it dries, you can begin to install the radiator in place.
Arranging the space behind the heating radiators. - blogs - poremontu.ru
I have a fairly old panel house. Almost twenty years have passed since its construction. Naturally, during this time, I, to one degree or another, remodeled almost the entire apartment.The newest ones that have appeared Construction Materials and technology has allowed us to significantly expand the content of the very concept of repair. If earlier we were content with whitewashing and changing wallpaper, today it can only be called a renovation with some stretch.
Take any element of an apartment: floor, walls, ceiling - today any of these elements can include a very diverse range of activities. Let's say the ceiling, traditional whitewashing has been replaced by suspended ceilings, two or even three-level. I'm not even talking about tiles, they have already become so firmly established in our everyday life that they are considered to some extent an outdated solution.
I found another use for the tiles.
The space behind the batteries is traditionally the bottleneck of any repair. Even just whitewashing it is quite difficult, it is also quite inconvenient, and besides, very often the wallpaper that is pasted falls off. So the battery “shows off” against the background of a poorly furnished wall.
And I covered this space with ordinary ceiling tiles. it turned out to be quite simple - the ceiling tiles are very well tailored to any configuration of supports for heating radiators. In addition, measuring the location of these supports before gluing the tiles is also very simple - after all, all the tiles have the same dimensions.
The sticker started with ceiling plinth, with which I framed the lower part of the window sill. And I started gluing the tile itself from below, in the direction from balcony door. Thus, the bottom, most clearly visible row turned out to consist of whole tiles. The same applies to the first vertical row from the balcony. I got two rows in total, and the top row even had to be trimmed a little.
I glued the tiles with PVA glue, spreading it over the entire surface. I also coated the walls with glue before applying the sticker. The adhesion of the tiles to the wall was good. Quality is time-tested. For more than a year now, the tiles have held up perfectly and haven’t fallen off.
The space behind the heating radiators arranged in this way began to look very good. From a somewhat whitewashed corner, it turned into a completely ennobled niche. Everyone who saw my innovation rated it positively. This is, of course, just a small touch in the overall decoration of the room, but the touch is quite noticeable. Now in all my rooms the heating niches are arranged in a similar way.
Finishing the wall behind the radiator
It is better to first make a lathing for the lining, then mark the brackets (install the timber) under the battery with the expectation that the lining will take 1 cm of the distance from the radiator to the wall.In general, for convenient marking, I take a sheet (roll) of thin paper with me to objects.
When performing cosmetic repairs, you can get free access to almost any part of the surface. However, in almost every room there is a place where it is very difficult to get to. This place is the surface of the wall behind the radiator. We will consider in detail how the walls behind the heating radiator are decorated in this article. In particular, we will consider the issue of finishing the wall behind the battery without removing it.
When working with the area behind the radiator, the first thing, of course, is to try to remove the battery. Today, heating radiators are mainly found in two types: aluminum and cast iron. Moreover, both types of radiators differ in the connection method.
How to remove a heating radiator for wall decoration
For all radiators, aluminum, cast iron, and other materials, the general connection principle is the same. Regardless of the number of sections, the battery has a valve that regulates the supply of hot water, a return shut-off valve, and a Mayevsky valve - an air vent designed to release an air plug from the radiator.
Battery connection diagram. If there is a small number of sections, the plug and return pipe are swapped.
On the hot water supply and return in the radiators, couplings with union nuts are installed, to which a water control valve is attached at the top using nuts, and a shut-off valve at the bottom. After both taps, couplings with external or internal threads are installed. And after the released couplings, either American couplings with clamping nuts or couplings for crimping are installed. One way or another, the supply and return heating pipes are connected to the latter.
The nut that must be unscrewed to remove the battery.
In order to remove an aluminum radiator, you must first close the water supply control valve and close the return valve. After this, you need to open the Mayevsky tap. Its external design may vary. Modern air blowers have a comfortable handle. The old-style air vents are opened using a screwdriver, which completely unscrews the bolt.
At the next stage, a basin or low bucket is installed under the battery to be removed and, using either 2 wrenches or 2 adjustable wrenches, the union nuts connecting the radiator couplings to the taps are unscrewed. Considering that the air vent was previously opened, you then need to wait until all the water drains from the radiator and remove the battery itself from the brackets.
The shut-off valves are usually located in one place at the outlet and water inlet of the gas boiler, or in the basement, if we are talking about an old apartment building connected to a central heating system.
Connection diagram for a cast iron heating radiator.
In the figure the numbers indicate:
1 – pressure washer (lock nut);
2 – transition coupling (futorka);
3 – gasket under the futor;
4 – base of the cast iron section.
After making sure that the water supply to the radiator is shut off, using 2 adjustable wrenches, initially release the pressure washer on the pipe, approximately 4-5 cm. After this, placing a container under the battery to collect water, unscrew the fitting from the radiator section, which will move along the thread on the pipe towards the released washer. In this case, it is advisable to count and remember the number of revolutions, since the installation of the radiator will be reverse sequential.
Finishing the walls behind the battery without dismantling it
For various reasons, it is not always possible to remove radiators. For example, if the repair is carried out in winter and there is a radiator at the inlet and outlet, but there are no shut-off valves. In this case, there are two options. If the battery is installed close to the wall, that is, the gap is minimal, only 10-20 mm, then it is better to wait until the end of the heating season and still temporarily dismantle the battery. If the gap between the radiator is 4-5 cm, then you can finish the wall surface without removing the battery.
Plastering and puttying behind the battery
It will not be possible to completely plaster the walls behind the radiator without removing it. That is, you can plaster with cement-sand mortar, but without grouting. The walls behind the radiator will need to be completely leveled using putty. To apply plaster or putty, use an aluminum strip 150 cm long or more and only 3-5 cm wide. The thickness of the strip should be about 4-5 mm so that the strip does not sag during operation.
When plastering or puttying, the solution is initially made of a thick consistency so that it does not flow off the aluminum strip. A solution or putty is applied to the edge of the entire length of the strip and the strip is passed between the battery and the wall at an angle of 45 degrees. The work is similar to the principle of plastering with the rule, but here the main inconvenience is associated with the battery located on the wall.
Painting, priming the walls behind the battery
Considering the small gap between the battery and the wall, it is more convenient to perform priming and painting with a roller with a small diameter - a mini roller. Mini rollers rarely appear on wide sale, so you often have to make them yourself from improvised materials, using only the holder of a standard roller. You can also use homemade brushes or ottomans to apply paint to the wall surface. They use aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.8-10 mm as a handle, which can be bent at the desired angle during painting. In addition, radiator brushes are available for sale. A radiator brush is a curved brush with a long handle.
Mini roller for working behind heating radiators.
Radiator brush.
Gluing wallpaper to the wall behind the radiator
When wallpapering behind a radiator, the surface of the wall is first covered with glue. The glue is applied in the same way as paint and primer. Next, use a roller to cover the back side of the cut piece of wallpaper. After this, a piece of wallpaper is passed behind the battery and in order to press it tightly to the wall surface and smooth it, use a second dry and clean mini-roller or ottoman on a flexible handle made of thick aluminum wire.
Gluing tiles behind the battery
Gluing tiles behind a radiator If the height and width of the battery are relatively small, for example, a radiator of 5 sections, then tiles can be laid on the wall behind it. The problem can only arise with the brackets on which the battery hangs. You will have to mark the tiles so that the horizontal seam between the tiles falls exactly on the location of the two brackets. If the brackets are made of smooth reinforcement, then small notches are made on the edges of the tile, thereby the upper and lower tiles will encircle the bracket released from the wall.
Other methods of finishing walls behind radiators
If it is very difficult to get close to the battery and it is unrealistic to remove it in the near future, then behind the radiator to the wall you can mount a glass-magnesite sheet (GML) on dowels, which can be pre-painted in the desired color. You can also glue wallpaper or tiles to the sheet. The advantage of SML is that it can be purchased with any thickness from 2 to 10 mm. It should also be noted the good thermal insulation and waterproofing qualities of glass-magnesite sheets. In addition to LSU, you can also use other sheet materials, such as plasterboard, plywood, chipboard.
Installation of glass-magnesite sheet behind the battery
Screens for radiators
Another solution when finishing the wall behind the radiator and decorating radiators is to use screens for radiators. They are perforated panels made of various materials and have many options for patterns and colors. Such panels cover the wall along with the batteries. Thus, part of the wall behind the battery itself is hidden from view. The downside of this solution is a slight reduction in heat from the battery.
Screen for radiators.
This area of the wall is painted, trying to choose a color that matches the color of the wallpaper as closely as possible.
However, during operation, the non-heat-resistant coloring pigment may change shade, resulting in under the window. Therefore, despite the difficulties, it is advisable to cover the space behind the heating radiator with wallpaper. Battery monitoring can be done in two ways.
Methods for wallpapering behind heating radiators
Method No. 1: wallpapering after removing the battery
In the event that the battery can be dismantled, it is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- dismantling the radiator and installing plugs on the pipes;
- (if necessary). We pay special attention to the place where the plinth is attached;
- followed by puttying. At this stage, you don’t have to strive to get a perfectly smooth surface, because all our flaws will subsequently be hidden under the fins of the radiator.
Important: before gluing wallpaper behind the radiators, be sure to saturate the wall surface with something suitable for your walls. primer composition from a trusted manufacturer (KNAUF, Ceresit). This will increase the adhesion of the materials, so your wallpaper will not peel off after the first heating season.
The wallpaper panels are marked in such a way that the joint falls in the middle of the radiator. In this case, the seam will be invisible. After cutting the pieces, they are carefully applied to the wall, maintaining verticality. The edges of the panels extend 5-6 mm beyond the corner of the niche. The resulting excess air, using standard technology, is expelled from under a piece of wallpaper with a rubber roller.
To form a neat contour around the pipes, by gluing the main panel, cut a hole in the marked place. :
- using a wallpaper knife, pressing the wallpaper panel with a spatula in small areas to the pipe being cut. This method requires acquired skill from the performer.
- with scissors, along a pre-defined contour of a circle measuring 2-2.5 mm less than the diameter of the pipe. You can make the markings with a compass or circle any stencil that is suitable in diameter. The plasticity of the wallpaper, after impregnation with glue, will increase and the cut hole will fit perfectly;
At the top (under the window sill) and in the places where the baseboard is subsequently attached, the canvas is carefully pressed against the wall using a spatula. The excess is trimmed with a wallpaper knife.
Method No. 2: pasting the wall behind a stationary battery
Pasting wallpaper behind heating radiators that cannot be removed will require some virtuosity on your part.
To perform this procedure, all walls are wallpapered in the usual way, leaving the space under the window sill for last. The wallpaper sheet is marked according to the size of the niche, making vertical cuts at the places where the radiator is attached. The cut sheet is smeared with glue and, having folded the resulting valves, is placed behind the battery.
Now you need to carefully straighten all the folds and press the canvas to the surface. Due to lack of space, it is impossible to use paint rollers or other specialized tools, so manipulations are carried out using rags. Having smoothed the canvas, the excess overlap is applied to the edge of the wallpaper on the wall. Pressing both resulting layers tightly with a large spatula, make a vertical cut.
When an unsightly heating radiator spoils the interior, there are several ways to solve the problem: replace it with a designer or in-floor model, or simply cover it with a screen/box. Last method provides several advantages:
- A screen or box not only hides a bulky structure, but often decorates the room.
- The screen/box can be used to build an additional console, a shelf for decoration, a bench, a rack, or a desktop.
- A closed battery is safer for children - there is no risk of burns or accidental impacts. However, one can argue with this argument, because it is in the children's room that heat loss is least needed.
In a children's room, the radiator should be covered with a nice grille with big amount holes, for example, carved as in this photo
- If the house is too hot and dry, then closing the radiator will help create a comfortable microclimate for household members, their pets and plants.
- The screen prevents dust from settling in the inside of the radiator and thus simplifies cleaning.
There are also disadvantages:
- The heat transfer of a closed battery decreases on average by 10-15% or more (depending on the degree of closure);
- Screens and boxes often make it difficult to service radiators, and sometimes even block access to them.
- Often, improperly closed batteries lead to fogging of windows, and then to the appearance of harmful mold on slopes and walls.
- The screen or box, at least a little, “eats up” the space around the radiator. After all, any elements should be installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the battery.
- Battery fencing requires additional expense and hassle.
How to cover radiators - 11 ways from a plasterboard box to a fabric screen
1. Decorative screen/box made of HDF
This option is one of the most popular due to its average price and beautiful appearance.
What is the difference between a box and a screen? The screen is designed for the battery located in a niche or under the window sill (pictured above), therefore, it covers only its front part. The box completely covers the radiator on the wall from all sides.
The screen, like the box panel, is made of perforated HDF sheet (high-density fiberboard 3 mm thick), but the box profiles are made of MDF. Both materials are quite strong, durable and non-toxic when heated.
Advantages:
- Due to the original perforation, HDF screens/boxes look beautiful and fit into any interior, especially to classic .
- Heat resistance (the structure does not dry out like natural wood and does not turn yellow like plastic).
- Easy to assemble and install without the help of specialists.
- Ready-made HDF screens/boxes can be white or imitate wood (wenge, beech, oak), and custom-made ones can be painted in any color, laminated, veneered natural wood. True, the complexity of the design always affects the price of the screen.
Flaws:
- MDF and HDF do not tolerate prolonged contact with water. If the battery leaks or a pipe breaks, the elements of the box/screen may swell. Therefore, any emergency situations must be resolved immediately.
- Perforated panels, despite their thinness, are quite durable due to the high density of fiberboard. However, they must be protected from impacts and sharp objects.
- Perforation sections in factory screens are not painted and are therefore visible.
Price: from 1500 rubles per finished model and from 2300 rubles – for an individual order.
Selection tips:
- The size of the radiator niche must correspond to the size inside screen.
- Screens and boxes for batteries can be either ready-made (assembled like a kit), or made to individual sizes and designs (you can choose a perforation pattern).
Here is a small selection of photos of closed batteries.
Closed battery in the interior of a small kitchen in Khrushchev
2. A plasterboard box
How to cover a battery with drywall? Using this material, you can cover the radiator with a box or create a niche for it in a false wall.
Advantages:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Can be used in damp areas;
- Material available;
- With a false wall you can cover the pipes and expand the window sill;
- You can close the battery with a plasterboard box with your own hands without special skills in a few hours of work;
- You can think through the configuration of the box and false wall yourself, if you wish, equip it with shelves and niches, and additionally cover the pipes connected to the battery. Next, you can look at a photo of a closed battery in a plasterboard false wall with an enlarged window sill-bench and a built-in niche for books.
Flaws:
- The main disadvantage of a plasterboard box is that this material is afraid of shocks and leaks. If something goes wrong, you will have to completely change the battery casing along with the finishing.
- A false plasterboard wall for the battery and pipes “eats up” the space, as it is placed 30-35 mm forward from the extreme point of the radiator.
- As a rule, a frame made of HA must be made at the renovation stage, because its finishing must coincide with the finishing of the walls.
In the following photos you can see the finished kitchen interior with a closed radiator and a plasterboard box in the process of renovation.
Design and Manufacturing Tips:
- Before covering the radiator with a plasterboard box, be sure to put it in order: blow it out, wash it (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint it. In the future, doing this without dismantling the box will be difficult or even impossible.
- The box can be installed on the floor or “hang” on the wall.
- When designing the box, keep in mind that the window sill canopy must protrude above the front of the box by at least 30 mm. If necessary, the old window sill should be replaced with a wider one.
Visual instructions on how to cover the battery and pipes with a false plasterboard wall are presented in the video below.
And here is a video tutorial on how to cover a radiator with a box.
3. Furniture
In the kitchen, the battery along with the window sill can be built into a set or bar counter, and in the living room, bedroom and hallway - into a bench, console or shelving unit.
This slider presents a selection of photos of closed radiators under the bench.
- The main condition: in the window sill/lid above the battery you need to provide enough holes for air circulation, and the facade (if there is one) covering the battery must be equipped with a grille (see photo below). Otherwise, there is a risk of windows fogging up and cold in the room.
Sometimes, to hide a heating radiator, it is enough to rearrange the furniture and cover the device, say, with a sofa, armchair or console. In order not to disturb the air circulation, it is better to place the piece of furniture away from the radiator (at least 10 cm), it is also advisable that it stands on legs - this way convective flows will not be blocked.
4. Fabric curtain
This method of disguise is good for rented housing or when you need to solve the problem of ugly batteries with minimal costs. The advantages of the curtain are obvious: a piece of fabric is inexpensive, and the choice of colors is very large (you can change the “screens” according to your mood), while the battery always remains available for repair and inspection.
5. Natural wood screen
Advantages:
- Beautiful and expensive appearance even in the simplest version;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Good heat dissipation and ability to accumulate heat.
Flaws:
- Wood is capricious - poorly prepared wood can swell from a leak or warp from heat;
- A wooden screen requires special care;
- High price.
Prices: from 3,000 rubles for the simplest models and from 10 thousand rubles for premium wooden screens.
Here are some photos of beautifully sealed batteries.
6. Glass screen
A glass screen is an excellent decorative solution, but from a thermal engineering point of view it is very controversial.
Advantages:
- Design for every taste - the glass panel can be transparent and colored, matte and shiny, with or without a sandblasted pattern, with beveled or polished edges;
- Glass can look neutral or very bright;
- Glass visually looks light and adds airiness to the interior;
- Ease of care;
- Strength;
- Durability;
- Heat resistance;
- Moisture resistance;
- Absolutely environmentally friendly.
Flaws:
- More suitable for modern rather than classic interiors;
- “Eats” up to 40-50% of heat (infrared radiation);
- High price;
- Fingerprints may remain on the glass;
- The panel does not cover the ends of the battery;
- Screen installation most often requires the help of a specialist.
- The battery screen must be made of tempered glass only. This is the only way it will be absolutely safe and shockproof.
- Glass screens are good for use in rooms with excess heat.
7. Metal box
Advantages:
- Practically do not interfere with heat transfer;
- Low price;
- Easy care;
- Absolute moisture and heat resistance.
Flaws:
- “Office” appearance that will not fit into every interior.
Selection tips:
- A metal screen for a battery can look very nice if you order its production from a company specializing in laser cutting metal or forging.
8. A rattan box or screen
Most often, rattan fabric refers to an artificial rattan mesh woven from cellulose-based fibers reinforced with nylon thread. Artificial rattan is very similar to natural rattan, but unlike it, it is more practical and can be painted in any color. Screens made from natural rattan have natural beauty and durability, but they cost twice as much and are much more difficult to find on sale.
Advantages of a rattan screen:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Beautiful view;
- Strength;
- Elasticity;
- Good heat dissipation.
Flaws:
- The weaving of artificial rattan is quite dense, which can affect heat transfer;
- The screen must be protected from water.
Prices: from 1,700 rubles (artificial rattan screen).
Rattan fabric (both artificial and natural) can be used to make a battery screen with your own hands. To do this, you need to assemble the box with the frame at the corners, attach the mesh to the inside of the frame, then install the box on the radiator using brackets.
9. Hinged metal screen
The metal structure consists of a cover and a screen and is hung on top of the battery without fixation.
Advantages:
- Easy installation;
- Simple dismantling, which facilitates radiator maintenance;
- Profitable price;
- Durability;
- Does not reduce battery efficiency.
Flaws:
- The ends of the battery remain visible;
- Almost always, suspended screens are grilles without any decoration.
- There must be high-quality enamel that does not scratch;
- It should hold tightly and be easily removed;
- The screen metal must not be subject to corrosion.
10. Curtains to the floor
Masking the radiator with curtains – great idea, approved by both heating engineers and decorators. The only problem is that it won’t be possible to hide the battery under the window behind a curtain without shading the room. Unless you hang very light tulle like in this photo.
Flaws:
- It looks simple, no frills;
- Over time, the plastic may turn yellow;
- When heated, low-quality plastic can release toxic substances, such as formaldehyde.
Prices: from 300 rubles.
Selection tips:
- Plastic battery screens are available in basic colors: white, gray, brown, beige. If desired, the screen can be painted in the desired color with alkyd spray paint for plastic;
- When choosing a plastic screen for a battery, make sure it is heat-resistant and non-toxic.
How to close batteries correctly - technical rules and tips
Before closing the radiator, you need to take into account several technical nuances:
- Keep in mind that the heat transfer of a closed radiator is reduced in any case, no matter what masking method you choose. The main thing is that the change is not significant. Ideally, the decrease in air temperature in the room should be about 1-1.5 degrees.
- Before closing the battery, put it in order: blow it out, wash it (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint it.
- Keep in mind that the denser the grille weave, the better it masks the radiator, but the worse it conducts heat. Therefore, when choosing a screen for your battery, try to look for golden mean or rely on heat conservation.
- To minimize heat loss, the screen can be placed on legs and a groove can be cut in the center.
- When closing the battery, it is very important not to block convective air flows, otherwise it will blow in the room and the windows will begin to fog up, which will ultimately lead to the appearance of mold on the walls. Ideally, the window sill visor should protrude no more than 30 mm above the radiator; the top and bottom of the radiator should be as open as possible.
- There should be a distance of at least 35-50 mm between the battery and the screen. There should be a gap of about 60-70 mm from the radiator to the floor and to the window sill.
- To resolve emergency situations, it is necessary to provide free access to the radiator. For example, the box grille can be removable, folding (see photo), opening on hinges or sliding out on profiles.
At a minimum, for trouble-free maintenance, the following must remain in good accessibility: pipe connections, valves, thermal head and threaded connections.
- You can increase heat transfer by 20-25% by placing a heat-reflecting screen, for example, fumisol, on the wall behind the radiator. Often this is quite enough to completely compensate for the heat loss of a closed battery.
