Standard sizes of extensions for interior doors. We install extensions on interior doors. Height of extensions for interior doors.

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What is an additional board for interior doors? In what cases is its use required? We will try to answer these and other questions related to door extensions in this article.

Description

Very often, when installing a door frame, it turns out that its width is less than the thickness of the walls of the opening itself. To eliminate the design defect associated with this, it is necessary to remove the slopes, and then cover them with wallpaper or paint them. Or you can do it more aesthetically and practically by installing extensions, which are special planks made of wood, MDF or other similar material.

Device

That is, we see that the extension covers both the end space unoccupied by the door frame and the edges of the surrounding wall, thereby performing the following functions:

Purpose

Linear parameters

Possible sizes of additional boards:

However, the width may not correspond to the space you need to cover. How then?

Instructions for calculating the appropriate size look like this:

1. We subtract the width of the installed box from the wall thickness. Let it be 13-7=6 cm;
2. Factory samples that are similar in value are 8 cm and 12 cm. That is, you can purchase two 8 cm strips and trim off the excess, or one with a width of 12 cm and simply split it in half. The second option, of course, is more profitable both from the point of view of finances and from the point of view of labor costs.

Installation work

Installing an interior door panel board is not a very difficult task, but it does require you to be careful and precise.

Advice: if you are not confident in your abilities, it is recommended to turn to specialists.
The price for their labor will be lower than the cost of damaged materials if you make mistakes during the installation process.

Preparing the necessary supplies

To perform all operations with your own hands you will need:

• Tape measure for taking the necessary measurements;

• A container with polyurethane foam for fixing the extensions;

• Small circular saw;

• Clamp for fixing the saw to the stool;

• 4 stools of the same height;
• At least ten plastic or wooden wedges;
• Screwdriver and screws.

Fitting and assembling additional boards

1. We take accurate measurements of the doorway;

1. We mark them on the purchased strips;
2. We fix the circular saw on the stool so that you feel comfortable working with it;
3. We carry out the necessary sawing of additional boards;
4. We assemble the prepared elements into a U-shaped structure using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws;

Fixation in the opening

1. We insert the resulting structure into the doorway, adjacent to the frame;

• Beautiful solid appearance of the finished structure;
• Harmonious combination of door leaf and wall;

• Additional fixation of the door frame;
• No “wet” work that could damage sensitive wood;
• Simplicity and high speed of implementation;
• A wide range of models that can be matched to any interior;

• Financial savings. Planks made of fiberboard will be cheaper than cement-sand mixture and wallpaper, which will be needed to create aesthetic slopes, which, moreover, most likely cannot be done without the help of professionals.

Conclusion

Door extensions make it possible to avoid labor-intensive and expensive removal of cement slopes. As a result, you get an aesthetic transition between the door and the wall, which favorably emphasizes the frame itself, hiding any possible defects in its installation.

It is noteworthy that you can complete all the necessary installation work yourself, saving on calling expensive specialists. But you should be extremely careful and follow all the above recommendations.

The video in this article contains a number of interesting materials that will provide you with additional information regarding the topic discussed. An additional board for doors is a modern and effective solution to the problem of discrepancy between the width of the door frame and the thickness of the wall.

If you have no experience in installing door hardware, but really want to do everything beautifully and neatly, then you need telescopic extensions for interior doors. Next, we will step by step analyze what it is, what such fittings are made of and what sizes of telescopic extensions exist for interior doors and entrance doors, and we will clearly show practitioners how to install the extensions with their own hands.

Telescopic extensions for interior doors are considered the best solution for a novice master.

First, let's look at what an extension is and how a telescopic extension differs from a regular extension.

In addition is called a strip that is installed on the end part of the doorway and is located between the door frame (lutka) and the outer door casing framing the doorway.

Accessories are not installed on all doors. If the wall thickness does not exceed 140 mm, then in principle you do not need any additions. Such fittings are installed only if the doorway is on a thick wall or partition and the thickness of the frame is not enough to completely cover the end of the wall.

Professionals distinguish 3 types of extras:

1. Telescopic structures;
2. Straight planks with edge;
3. Straight planks without edge.

The only difference between the additional strips is the installation technology and appearance.

As shown in the diagram above, the options with and without an edge differ only in the presence of this very edge. The edge does not serve any practical function, only decoration. The price of planks without edges is a little lower, but believe me, such savings are not the best solution.

If the platband moves a little, then the owners will have to either seal the end of the plank with something, or select paint to match the platband. Both options will be noticeable in any case and they do not look very nice, to put it mildly.

Telescopic extensions for interior doors differ from ordinary straight ones by the presence of a groove at the end, which faces the platband. On the opposite side, such structures may have a tenon, a straight cut, or the same groove.

There is a small nuance here; for normal installation of the telescopic extension, a special groove must be cut on the door frame. In turn, the platbands also need to be taken not simple, but L-shaped. Moreover, the groove on the box is cut in the factory using a special tool. At home, with your own hands, and even a not very experienced master can not do this kind of work.

For the telescopic extension you need to take a door frame with a groove and an L-shaped trim.

By the way, if you decide to install ordinary direct additional trim strips on your opening, then step-by-step installation instructions and practical advice on choosing this product can be found

Subtleties of choice

It is advisable to buy such fittings immediately, together with the door frame, because after installing the door frame it will be difficult to guess the shade of the frame.

Selection of planks by size

The telescopic extension for the interior door and a similar design for the front door differ only in thickness and material of manufacture. We’ll talk about the material a little later, but now we’ll look at the different sizes of telescopic extensions.

The thickness of the telescopic extension for interior doors starts from 10 mm.

Since the structure is equipped with an end groove, its thickness cannot be less than 10 mm. Although in fairness it should be noted that there are planks in which the main body of the extension has a thickness of about 7 mm, but in such planks there are overlays along the edges that form a groove.

The thickness of the extensions on interior doors ranges from 10 to 14 mm. They can also be used for entrance doors, but still, if conditions permit, then for entrance doorways it is better to take planks thicker than 15 - 25 mm.

It is advisable to take thicker additional telescopic strips for openings for entrance doors.

In the windows of hardware stores you can now find telescopic additional strips with a width of 90 mm to 400 mm. But the most popular sizes are 90 mm, 130 mm and 170 mm.

The most common telescopic structures have sizes of 90, 130 and 170 mm.

If you need a non-standard, very wide additional strip, you can order it from any workshop specializing in the manufacture of doors or furniture assembly. But you can go the other way and assemble such an array from several planks.

If the smooth joining of straight planks is quite problematic, then telescopic structures are easily joined using thin connecting strips, in the diagram below this the structural element is specified as a “fixing element”.

Assembling a wide extension from several telescopic bars will not be difficult.

As for the length, the dimensions of the telescopic bars vary from 2150 mm to 2500 mm. For narrow interior doors, for example, in services, it is advisable to take long slats, they create less waste.

By the way, stores often have substandard additional trim strips, for example, scratched or chipped, such strips are significantly cheaper. If you have the right color, you can save money by taking 2 normal strips for the side panels and 1 substandard one for the top crossbar, because you still have to cut it and the damaged part will be cut out.

Standard configuration of structures with telescopic extensions.

What are the accessories made of?

In general, additional planks are made from MDF, natural wood, chipboard, plastic and metal. But telescopic structures are only made of wood, MDF and chipboard.

• Natural wood – it makes sense to take natural wood extensions only for a similar door leaf. If you have a hollow door leaf with a laminated coating, then the dissonance between the wooden paneling and the laminate will be very noticeable;

If you are going to make a telescopic extension with your own hands, then the best material for this will be natural wood.

• MDF - this material is now perhaps the most popular in the manufacture of add-ons. MDF is not afraid of moisture, is quite resistant to mechanical damage and has an acceptable cost. Plus, under wooden doors you can use MDF covered with natural veneer, which will be much cheaper than buying wooden panels;

Veneered MDF is visually no different from natural wood.

• Chipboard - this option can be safely called budget. Extension strips made of laminated chipboard are the cheapest of the telescopic structures, but that’s where their advantages end. Chipboard is afraid of moisture, plus thin strips in the grooves break easily, so if there is an alternative, it is better to refuse installing chipboard.

MDF is the optimal material for telescopic extensions.

How to install a telescopic extension

As we have already mentioned, the installation of a telescopic extension is much simpler compared to the installation of its straight counterparts. The main thing here is to choose the right size of the bar, and then everything is elementary simple.

As a rule, all telescopic extensions are initially equipped with grooves on both sides. So you need to cut off or break off the back part of the groove from the side of the door frame and insert the remaining whole tenon into the groove of the door frame.

In order for the extension to fit into the groove on the door frame, part of the groove on it must be removed.

After this, all you have to do is insert the L-shaped trim into the extension groove and adjust so that everything fits evenly. If the platband will be attached to the wall, then there is no point in installing the additional strip with glue, plus the unglued structure can be disassembled if necessary. The video in this article shows the entire installation clearly.

Conclusion

As you can see, the telescopic extension is simply mounted. The main thing is not to forget about the recommendations that we gave when choosing the material and everything will work out for you.

If you decide to install doors in your apartment or office, in 80% of cases you will need to install extensions on interior doors.

Why do you need an extension when installing a door?

Additions are vertical flat panels made in the color of the door, and allow you to “adjust” the thickness of the doorway and secure the trim on the other side of the wall. There are additional benefits:

• Ordinary ones, i.e. flat panels
• Telescopic, having grooves at the end for a platband with a tenon

Additional door elements are most often made from: MDF, fiberboard or coniferous wood and are flat panels about 1 cm thick and approximately 207 cm high.

The standard width of extensions are usually 100, 120, 150 and 200 mm wide. It is better to buy them together with interior doors so that all elements are made in the same color.

Installation of accessories must be calculated in advance

If installation of extensions on interior doors is required, the price for the work is calculated separately. Therefore, when measuring the openings, it is necessary to immediately calculate the number of additional trims and inform the master how many doors require installation of extensions.

First of all, you need to measure the thickness of the walls in the openings, and understand how much thicker the wall in the opening is than the frame of the interior door. If the extension is ordinary and the wall thickness is more than 7-7.5 cm, the extension is needed in any case

For example, if the wall of the doorway is 10cm thick. — we make the following calculation: 10-7+1=4cm. In total, you need three such elements for one door: two vertical and one horizontal. In the store we order one additional element 15 cm wide, the master cuts it into 3 parts of 4 cm each and installs the additional elements.

Installation of the door panel is necessary:

• during installation, if the wall thickness is greater than the door frame thickness:
• during installation, for a beautiful finish on distorted slopes:

• when finishing a doorway into a portal, without a door leaf
• when finishing a doorway into a portal with the installation of a sliding door

All of the above work is performed by our craftsmen; the cost of installing interior doors with extensions can be found in. When ordering finishing of the entrance door slopes, you can order additional panels with color selection from us.

Installation of doors with extensions if the wall is 1 cm thicker than the frame.

You need to make extensions 2 cm wide, 1 cm will go into the grooves and 1 cm will remain. It is necessary to attach platbands to this narrow extension. In order to save material, it is allowed to saw the extensions along at least 1.5 cm. in width.

If the walls are blocked vertically or the doorway has different wall thicknesses at the top and bottom, then the extensions have to be made trapezoidal. For example, the bottom extension can be 3 cm wide, and 2 cm wide on top. Not very beautiful, is it? Therefore, in this case, telescopic extensions with extended platbands look more aesthetically pleasing.

Installing extensions on a thick wall

If the wall is very thick (from 20 cm and above), the panels are spliced ​​together using furniture clips, glue, hardboard strips and thin pine blocks.

Here is a photo of an interior door with wide slopes on a thick wall:

Installation of telescopic extensions on interior doors

Installing telescopic extensions on interior doors is not quite the same as installing regular ones. Such a panel has longitudinal grooves up to 2 cm deep at the ends for installation. The advantage of telescopic molding is that fasteners (pins or nails) are not visible, and it is possible to easily dismantle the platbands. Telescopic extensions do not need to be wedged during installation, since they just need to be inserted into narrow grooves in the box.

Here is an approximate calculation if the tenon on the platband is 2 cm wide:

• If the extension is telescopic and the wall thickness is more than 10cm. , and the door does not need to be opened 180 degrees - additional extensions are needed
• If the extension is telescopic and the wall thickness is more than 8.5 cm, and the door needs to be opened 180 degrees, extensions are needed

If the tenon on the platband has a smaller width, then the above calculations need to be reconsidered.

As you can see, installing an extension with a platband on a telescopic system has its own characteristics due to the presence of a groove in the extension and a tenon on the platbands.

For example, when installing conventional panels 4 cm wide, you can order one panel 15 cm wide and “dissolve” it into 3 strips. But when installing telescopic extensions, this will no longer be possible - you will have to order 2 elements of 10 cm each. wide due to the presence of two grooves for platbands at the ends. If the additional board has only one groove at the end, and has a tenon on the other side, then you will have to order 2.5 additional 10cm pieces for 1 door. width.

The width of telescopic additional strips is calculated based on the fact that the platbands can extend from the extensions to the width of the tenon. You also need to take into account the length of the tenon going into the extension and you will understand what width is required.

The disadvantage of the telescopic system is that the extensions cannot be cut into narrow strips due to the groove for the platband. This is especially noticeable with a wall thickness of 9 to 11 cm, because The cutting line passes through the groove and therefore the extension falls apart into 2 parts. Therefore, we have to abandon the additions, place the door frame not flush with the wall, but in the middle, thereby deepening the door leaf, which limits the door opening to 180 degrees, because The door begins to pull out the hinges.

When installing telescopic extensions on portals (openings without doors decorated with platbands and extensions), approximately the same situation almost always arises. The wall has a thickness of, for example, 13 cm, and the extension has a standard width of 15 cm. and grooves on both sides. Therefore, it is necessary to saw it lengthwise, cut off the tenons from the platbands and nail the platbands to the cut edge of the trim with pins or nails.

Extensions between the front door and the second wooden door

To enhance sound insulation, the entrance and wooden doors are installed side by side, leaving free space between them, which is best decorated with extensions. This type of work is considered very labor-intensive due to the difficulties with foaming the extensions and subsequent smooth joining with both doors at the same time.

requires a certain amount of experience from the master. It is necessary to outline and cut all the planks, taking measurements using a ruler with the door frame installed. It is important that the gaps between the frame and the extensions are minimal, and to do this they need to be properly wedged around the entire perimeter of the door frame or secured with self-tapping screws.

In this article I will tell you in what cases it is necessary to install extensions on interior doors and how to determine the width of the required extension.

What is dobor?

Installation of additional boards (additional boards) is required when the wall thickness is greater than the width of the door frame. Typically the box width is 7-8 cm.

Dobor- this is an element that connects to the door frame, thereby increasing the width of the frame to the thickness of the wall. Installation of extensions is necessary even if the wall is 5 mm thicker than the frame. The exception is telescopic door frames, where the platband is inserted into a groove. This system allows you to slightly increase the width of the box, but no more than 10-15mm. If the door frame has a groove for installing a platband and is equipped with telescopic platbands, then the door frame must also have a groove for installing a platband.

How to determine the width of the required extension?

You can determine this yourself. To do this you need:

1. Measure the width of the new interior door frame
2. Measure the wall thickness of the doorway, preferably in several places, for example at the bottom, top and center of the doorway
3. Subtract the width of the box from the wall thickness
4. We get the width of the required addition

The wall thickness is 8 cm, but the width of the box is even smaller. Addition is needed If the wall has different thicknesses in different places, it is worth consider only the maximum value. As a rule, manufacturers of interior doors produce extensions in several sizes. If the required extension size does not match the one available for sale, it is worth buying a wider extension. When installing an interior door, the extension is adjusted in size to the nearest millimeter. This includes adjusting it to size.

note that extras are usually calculated with a small margin. 2 cm in reserve for cutting the extension and for possible deviations of the walls is quite enough.

Installing doors, especially interior doors, is not a very difficult task, but it does involve a number of certain actions, thanks to which the door will function perfectly and look aesthetically pleasing. It often happens that when installing an interior door, regular or for a pencil case, an additional board is used. What it is and what it is intended for, we will look at in this article.

What it is?

The process of installing an interior door includes several stages:

• assembling the box or frame in which the door will function;
• placing and securing the box in the doorway;
• preparation of the door leaf, installation of fittings;
• installation of the canvas in the box, fitting and adjustment;
• finishing with platbands of the doorway.

Door accessory for interior doors – this is a decorative element that expands the box, if it does not coincide with the width of the opening. It seems to continue the door frame, creating a single and integral structure. It is essentially a 90-degree slope made from rectangular planks and casing made of hard materials.

What do they look like?

Additional trims have a wide range of color options. In the vast majority of cases, they are made from the same material as the door frame and door. Therefore, it is more profitable to purchase extensions together with the door and frame from one manufacturer or company. When assembled, the extensions are U-shaped.

Panels made from wood chip materials can have a protective edge, or their ends remain untreated. Also, a groove can be made on the edge on one side and a tenon on the other. Such additions are a type of lining. Telescopic boxes are equipped with such accessories.

Why are they needed?

Additions to interior doors hide all defects in the opening, protect against mechanical influences, serve as additional reinforcement of the frame, and also serve as an important decoration for the door.

The standard dimensions for the width of a door frame are 80 cm and 100 cm. If the width of the doorway is greater than these dimensions, then during installation there remains free space that needs to be refined. You can, of course, order a box of any width that matches the dimensions of the doorway, but custom-made work increases the cost of the purchased product several times over compared to a standard order. And even more so when the door is made of a rare type of wood.

Precisely for this purpose to close this free space and save on material, and we need such an element as extras. They serve to create your own design, giving you the opportunity to realize your imagination by selecting material, color, style and shape.

The aesthetics of the entire interior depends on a carefully made door slope.

What types are there?

Types of extensions differ in installation method:

• attached;
• lining;
• combined;
• telescopic.

You can attach them to the door frame both before installation and after, when the jamb is securely installed. For fastening before installation, use either small screws or glue.

You can fasten the box with the extension using thin metal plates. For example, pieces of “crocodiles” (fasteners for attaching guides) used for mounting a frame under drywall.

Methods for collecting extras on the box before its installation:

• First, we assemble the box by filing the guides at 90 or 45 degrees, 6 mm larger than the width of the door leaf, for a working gap of 3 mm around the perimeter of the door leaf. If there is no quarter-shaped groove on the back side of the guides, it must first be made on a circular machine or using a cutter. Using a chisel for this work is time-consuming and requires professionalism to achieve the desired quality. The width of the quarter is chosen to correspond to the width of the trim, and the depth is approximately a centimeter.
• We cut the selected extension to the width required to cover the opening together with the frame. Cut the vertical and horizontal strips to length so that the horizontal piece overlaps the vertical ones.
• We make formwork around the perimeter from the wrong side of the box from a flat material, for example, plasterboard. For this purpose, we screw its strips, approximately the size of the width of the prepared panel, to the box with self-tapping screws.
• Align the vertical parts of the door frame with respect to the floor at an angle of 90 degrees.
• We apply glue (any kind for wood or liquid nails) into the groove, insert the extension, and adjust it so that there are no gaps. From above, for strength, you can tighten the parts of the panel with self-tapping screws, making sure to drill holes with a thin drill along the entire length of the self-tapping screw so that the panel does not swell or crack. Then we leave it to dry. As soon as it dries, remove the formwork and install the jamb.

You can do without glue. The planks are prepared in the same way. The plates are screwed onto the back side of the box, where the quarter is located, the extensions are inserted and fastened with short self-tapping screws.

If there is no groove, you can cut panels from the selected material with a width corresponding to the width of the opening to be covered. Assemble a box from the extensions, and insert the door jamb inside. This can only be done if the extension is thin, or the distance allows for mounting the entire assembly assembly, and the platband is wide enough to cover the mounting seam.

Methods for installing extensions on a mounted frame are used when there is an already installed jamb with a door, and the frame has a quarter for extension.

Method one:

• Free this area from foam and clean thoroughly.
• Using a tape measure and a corner, measure the distance from the recess in the quarter to the end of the opening, in several places around the entire perimeter.
• Cut to the length and width of the workpiece. They are inserted into the groove, and in this place the extensions are supported in several places against the box, for example, with a bicycle thermo or pieces of hardened foam or polystyrene foam. Then they are wedged so that there are no gaps and the extensions stand at 90 degrees relative to the plane of the door.
• Construction foam is applied only to the part that is in contact. After the foam has hardened, you can treat the entire slope with it. It is better to use foam with a low expansion coefficient for installation. If there is no groove, then the panel is slipped under the box, wedged and foamed.

The second method, which is used if it is not possible to place the extension on the foam, and the thickness of the extension allows you to drill through it:

• We make several holes in the extension strip. Three holes are enough for a horizontal bar, and four holes for a vertical bar. In the place of the holes, using a drill of a larger diameter, we make indentations to recess the heads of the screws.
• Using a tape measure and a corner, measure the distance from the box to the edge of the opening. According to the largest size, we cut off the width of the extension. A prerequisite: the dimensions at the junction of one plank with another, that is, in the corners, must be the same.
• We cut out small, even rectangular blocks from the material at hand and slip them under the box at the fastening points. We drive self-tapping screws into the planks, apply them to the box, press them against the blocks and tighten them with a screwdriver, making sure that there are no gaps at the joints. This can be done if the width of the extension is no more than 20 cm. In the same way, you can assemble the box before installing it.

Method three:

• A thin strip, like a glazing bead, no larger than 10/10 mm in size around the entire perimeter is nailed onto the box. If there is no slats, then at a distance of approximately 5 mm from the inner edge of the box, screw screws around the perimeter or hammer in nails. The caps are cut off with a grinder, leaving about a centimeter of pins.
• The extensions are prepared in the above manner, wedged and more spacers are added between the side extensions in the place where the nails were nailed and from the floor to the horizontal extension. It is better to secure the extensions with masking tape from one wall to another through the opening. And they foam in the same way.

Method four - lathing an unclosed opening:

• To do this, prepare blocks no thicker than the gap between the opening and the box, or a little thicker, but in this case, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the box at the same distance as a guide. Any length, as long as it does not crack during installation. The width from the box to the edge of the opening.
• They are mounted to concrete and brick with dowels using a building level and angle. The extras are prepared in the same way. Attached to the bars using liquid nails. After drying, you can foam it for sound insulation.

Method five:

• You can attach the extensions directly to the opening using liquid nails if their thickness covers the installation seam. To do this, glue is applied to the opening pointwise. Take a meter to one and a half block, apply it to the slope and use a mallet to level the plane. Secure with masking tape until dry.
• In order to secure the extensions to the box, you can use clamps. To do this, prepare the extensions in length and width, assemble them into a box, apply liquid nails to the end, apply them to the jamb and tighten them with clamps until dry.

Telescopic

This type of accessory is assembled like a construction set. It is advisable to use an edge milling machine. Without it, it is quite difficult to make cuts at 45 degrees using a simple miter box. Therefore, when assembling the box at 90 degrees, it is necessary to ensure that the groove for the extension at the joint is solid. Extensions are inserted into it, having a tenon on one side and a groove on the other into which the platband is inserted.

The depth of the groove is 15 mm, which makes it possible to “walk” in width when purchasing or adjusting the addition and cashing. The steps for measuring, cutting and attaching are the same as for straight planks.

Their convenience lies in the fact that they are easily assembled together and make it possible to cover any distance.

Combined

Combined types of extensions are corner strips made of fiberboard, MDF, PVC - they are both an extension and a cashout. This type of additional planks is used when the overlap distance is insufficient. They are mainly attached to liquid nails.

Dimensions

Standard sizes of extensions on the market:

• thickness 6-30 mm;
• width 50 -250 mm;
• length 2100 mm.

The width of telescopic panels is 90, 120, 150 mm. The quarter on the box for completion is most often 10/10 mm, so the thickness of the strip is chosen to be 1 cm.

The required width of the strip is the width of the opening minus the width of the door frame, plus a quarter, if any. Additional boards can be prepared with your own hands. This item is of non-standard sizes can be made to order.