› Calculation of doors for a sliding wardrobe

How to calculate wardrobe doors without incomprehensible online diagrams and calculators?

The calculation of compartment doors for different systems may vary, so we will focus on the general approach for calculating compartment doors in order to understand the principle of their calculation.

Let's consider calculation of compartment doors using the example of the Raumplus aluminum system, the ancestor of all other systems, which, if they differ, are only slightly different. Analogues of Raumplus include the Polish Senator, Chinese Aristo, and Russian Versailles.

The first thing to start with when calculating compartment doors is to determine the size of the opening in which the compartment doors are supposed to be installed. When measuring, check the dimensions at several points.

We have received the size of the opening, we proceed to calculating the length of the upper and lower guides for the compartment doors and the dimensions of the compartment doors themselves.

Calculation of the height of compartment doors

If you look at the cross-section of the profile of the top rail for sliding wardrobe doors, then the height of the internal space of the top rail where the sliding doors will go is 45 mm, reducing the height of the doors relative to the opening by 40 mm allows you to bypass height differences of 10 mm or more. The upper guide will not allow the compartment door rollers to jump out.

Calculation of the width of compartment doors

When calculating the width of a compartment door, the width of the compartment door should be such that the doors overlap by the width of the handle.

Rice. 4. Compartment door dimensions

Sometimes this scheme also takes into account the width of the bumper brush, but usually this is neglected. If you still decide to take this point into account when calculating the compartment door, then subtract two thicknesses of the fender brush from the width of the opening.

That is, if the brushes are 5 mm thick, then subtract 10 mm from the width of the opening and use the already obtained value as the width of the opening to calculate the compartment door.

Calculation of the length of the upper and lower guides for compartment doors

Length of horizontal connecting and separating profiles

Calculation of compartment door filling height

Calculation of the width of a compartment door

Width of filling a compartment door made of chipboard = length of the horizontal divider + 2 * 8 mm,

It is quite possible for a person with practical skills to assemble a wardrobe with their own hands. The main difficulty lies in the manufacture of sliding doors. To avoid mistakes, you must strictly adhere to the rules for calculating the size of canvases: take into account the height, width of the opening, the number and size of doors, type of profile and other fittings. In this article we will tell you how to correctly collect the initial data, what you will need for this, and you can independently calculate the exact parameters using our calculator.

Measuring the opening

The correct determination of the dimensions of door structures depends on the accuracy of the measurements. Measuring an opening consists of 2 main operations:

1. Measuring the height of the space between the extreme points of the internal surfaces of the top and bottom plates of the cabinet.
2. The width is determined by the same method between the outer side walls of the compartment.

Accuracy of measurements is the key to quality

Number of doors

The standard filling of a wardrobe opening can consist of 2, 3 or more panels that move relative to each other in a single plane. The vertical edges of adjacent doors overlap each other. This ensures that there are no gaps in the closed cabinet opening.

Influence of the number of sashes on calculations and location options Lп - opening width, Lс - leaf width

Installation of the sliding system can be done in two ways:

1. They purchase ready-made doors and install the wardrobe body based on their dimensions.
2. Having installed the cabinet, measure the opening. Calculations are made and, according to the results, doors are made.

In the second case, you will need a diagram for the workshop. You can also make sliding doors with your own hands, following our instructions in another article.

Calculations

To begin, we need the following data:

• opening height
• width of the future cabinet
• number of door leaves
• number of overlaps
• fleece seal thickness
• frame profile width
• thickness of both guides

Correct calculation of all the component parts will eliminate mismatches, distortions, and failures during the installation of the panels in the wardrobe.

Determining the height and width of the opening

Before starting measurements, you need to check the level of the horizon of the upper and lower plates, the verticals of the side rails and the rear wall of the cabinet and eliminate deviations if they are detected. Then proceed to determine the width and height of the opening:

Read also: Standard height of lower kitchen cabinets: ready-made and custom-made modules

1. Measure the distance from the inner surface of the bottom plate to the bottom point of the upper floor of the body.
2. Measure the distance between the inner surfaces of the outer side walls.
3. A control measurement of the length of the diagonals between the opposite points of mating adjacent surfaces from the inside of the cabinet is carried out - they must be equal to each other.
4. If there is a difference in lengths, this will mean a violation of the geometry of the wardrobe body. The distortion is eliminated with pads under the base of the cabinet.

The obtained values ​​are the basic data necessary for calculating wardrobe doors.

Accounting for overlaps

Wardrobe doors move relative to each other along parallel tracks. When the opening is closed, the internal racks overlap by the width of the profile. These intersections are called overlaps. Their number is one less than the number of doors. For example, a three-leaf system has two overlaps, the width of which is taken into account when designing sliding systems.

Calculation method

To clearly understand all the nuances, let’s take as an example the specific dimensions of the opening. Let's say the basic input data is:

• height H pr = 2400 mm;
• width L pr = 2700 mm;
• number of door leaves N = 3 pcs.;
• buffer tape thickness B = 6 mm;
• number of overlaps A = 2 pcs.;
• frame profile width C = 20 mm;
• thickness of both guides S = 40 mm.

The parameters of the upper and lower guides of the cabinet body must be taken into account in the calculation. The upper support bar in the section represents an inverted letter “W”.

Buffer tape can be of different widths. The minimum pile thickness is 6 mm, and the maximum value is 10 mm. This factor is taken into account when calculating sliding systems. In our case, the calculated thickness of the tape is 6 mm.

The profile of the handles determines the width of the vertical posts framing the door leaf. The aluminum racks are made with grooves for fixing the blade and have a bend on the outside for easy grip by hand. The thickness of the horizontal and vertical frame slats is the same and is 20 mm.

Read also: At what height can kitchen cabinets be hung: distance from the countertop, how to calculate correctly

The calculations are made in the following order:

• door height H in = H in – S = 2400 – 40 = 2360 mm;
• width taking into account 2 overlaps L dv = (L r - AC - AB) / N = (2700 - 40 - 12)/3 = 2648/3 = 883

The size of each of the three canvases is 2360 x 883 mm.

If the number of doors is different, then calculations can be made using the formulas:
leaf height H in = H in – S;
width L dv = (L pr - AC – N bf B), where N bf is the number of buffer tapes;
filling height Hnp = H dv – 2C – 2D, where D is the depth of the groove in the frame;
width L np = L dv – 2C – 2D.

Calculation of infills

The filling parameters are determined by subtracting two values ​​from the door dimensions - the width of the horizontal strips and vertical posts (handles), as well as two thicknesses of the buffer tape.

The size of the standard door frame filling (mirror, LSDP or MDF) will be:

• height 2360 – 40 = 2320 mm;
• width 883 – 40 – 12 = 831mm.

To the obtained indicators you need to add the depth of the grooves in the profile (3 mm) to install the filling. The final size of the canvas will be (2320 + 6) x (831 + 6) = 2326 x 837 mm.

When combining inserts, it is necessary to take into account the wall thickness of the aluminum I-profile T (2 mm), which is attached to the frame posts. Fragments of filling made from different materials (mirror, chipboard or MDF) are inserted into its grooves.
The height of the combined filling inserts Hvs (the width remains the same) is calculated as follows:
H sun = (H np - (N – 1)T)/N, where N is the number of inserts.
For example, the filling consists of 4 equal fragments with a frame opening height of 2320 mm, the thickness of 3 connecting profiles is 2 x 3 = 6 mm, then the height of each insert will be:
(2320 – 6)/4 = 578.5 mm.

A sliding wardrobe is considered a comfortable and popular piece of furniture, which is installed in almost every apartment. In this design you can store various things: clothes, shoes and other additional accessories. But before purchasing this furniture, you definitely need to find out how to calculate sliding wardrobe doors so that it looks harmonious in the interior.

In order for the closet to fit into a room - a corridor or hallway - it is necessary to correctly calculate the size of the opening. To do this, first select a place to install the structure.

When measuring the opening, it is worth considering important recommendations:

• to correctly measure the opening, you need to measure the width and height of the space;
• The smallest width of the fabric of this type of construction is 50 centimeters; there are models with a size of more than a meter. The main thing is to calculate that the area has sufficient area for the entire structure;
• be sure to take measurements of the width of the space below and above, this will help you get an average;
• It is advisable to measure the height, it is usually from 2 to 2.5 meters.

Required measurements

Determining the number of doors

A mandatory step will be to calculate the wardrobe doors. But in order to accurately determine the dimensions, you need to take measurements from the opening where the canvases will be located. Indicators of its height, width, depth are taken.

During all measurements and calculations, certain rules must be observed:

• It is better to take measurements in several areas, because there are differences;
• There may be an error of one and a half centimeters between measurements;
• the height indicator should be 4 cm less than the same opening value;
• When performing calculations, it is imperative to maintain accuracy;
• When measuring doors, it is recommended to take into account an important factor - the possibility of passing these elements through the openings of a living space.

For comfortable opening of the wardrobe, it is recommended to use a design with two doors. Products with three doors are often found on sale; they are quite wide and take up a lot of space. When choosing products, first consider the space available in your living space.

Options for compartment door locations

Door overlap

The sliding doors of the cabinet are designed so that when closing, one door can extend beyond the area of ​​the other. It is considered a good option when a closed structure has one handle peeking out. But the profile of one sash must cover the surface of the profile of the other, without completely obscuring the filling material of the sash. The width should correspond to half the width of the opening plus the size of the handle profile.

There are several important conditions to consider during the process:

• Before you start designing, you should find out in advance which company the fittings will be used;
• It is worth choosing the type of handle with a C-shaped, H-shaped or double-sided design;
• number of sashes - the total number of overlaps depends on them. If there are two sashes, then there will be one overlap, if there are three, then two;
• take into account one of the important conditions that affects the measurements of the sashes - the presence of a schlegel. This part is a fleecy seal that softens the impact of the canvas on the wall surface. Typically its thickness is 1 centimeter.

Overlap of compartment doors

Calculations

It is important to correctly calculate all elements of the wardrobe. This will ensure its correct placement and convenient use. Even a slight deviation can lead to the doors blocking or they will constantly move to one side.

Height

When calculating the height of a structure, you should not rely on measurements of the distance from the floor to the ceiling. In order for the measurement to be carried out correctly, it is worth taking into account the indicator of the total space. The maximum height of the cabinet will be the size of the same niche parameter. For example, if the height of the room from floor to ceiling is 250 cm, then on average the size of the structure should be no more than 240 cm.

In order to measure the height of the opening correctly, it is necessary to take measurements at three points - two sides and the middle. If the same parameters are obtained, then there will be no difficulties. But if they differ, then the calculation of the parameters should be based on a small indicator, which is taken from the floor to the ceiling of the opening. The height indicator is influenced by the presence of the top element of the cabinet - the lid. In this case, it is worth considering what area it will be fixed to - to the furniture cover or to the ceiling surface.

To select a blade, you need to take into account the parameters of the used components of the roller system - upper guides, runners.

So, if the standard cabinet height is 2400 mm, then when calculating the door dimensions it is worth subtracting the data from the following elements:

• cover thickness – 1.6 cm;
• it is worth subtracting a gap of 14 mm, which is required for free installation of the door in the area of ​​the upper guides;
• the thickness of the lower guide elements with a roller structure is 6 mm;
• The gap between the area of ​​the lower guides and the blade is 15 mm.

Sometimes an aluminum profile is additionally used to strengthen the canvas, then it is worth subtracting 32 mm. The result should be a value of 2316 mm.

Width

In order to correctly calculate the width, you should measure the niches at three points, just like when measuring the height. The initial width parameter will be the smallest value.

Calculating the size of wardrobe doors based on their width directly depends on the number of door partitions. First, you need to take measurements of the width of the common opening, and then divide the resulting figure by the number of sashes. Further calculations need to be carried out only for one canvas.

In order to understand exactly how the calculations are made, it is worth considering an example:

• The width of the niche is 300 cm, and it has three sliding panels;
• the width of one unit of canvas will be 100 cm;
• it is imperative to add an overlap between the doors, which can close the interior space from outside view;
• Be sure to add 2.5 cm to the sides of the doors;
• As a result, it turns out that the width of the canvases is 105 cm.

Filling

The filling is in a frame made of aluminum profiles. In order for the calculations to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to subtract from the general parameters of the doors the size of the width of the profiles that frame them on all sides.

An example of one of the calculation options:

• first of all, the dimensions of the width of the handles are measured, let’s take the indicator 16 mm;
• since there are two handles, the indicator must be multiplied by 2, which means 16*2=32 mm;
• the total width of the handles is subtracted from the width parameter, for example, 712-32 = 680 mm;
• Take measurements of the distance of the upper and lower areas that separate the canvas from the height of the niche. For example, it is 12 and 47 mm, respectively;
• Let's take the door height as 2460 mm. We add the two values ​​of the upper and lower areas - 12 and 47, we get 59. From 2460 we subtract 59 and we get 2401 mm, this will be the filling height.

Handle profile

At the end, the frame of the handle is calculated. Its height coincides with the door leaf - 2401 mm. In order to make correct calculations of the length of the horizons, be sure to try on the handle profile right up to the groove.

How to do this can be seen using an example:

• width size is 24 millimeters;
• due to the fact that there are two handles, this figure needs to be multiplied by two, we get 24*2=48 mm;
• Then we subtract the total width of the handles from the width and get 712-48=664. This indicator will be the length of the upper and lower tracks.

This will be the correct calculation of the entire structure. The main thing is to maintain accuracy when carrying out all measurements and take into account even the slightest deviations. After all, it is important that the wardrobe is not only comfortable, but also fits exactly into the room. In addition, wardrobe doors are the main structural element and it is very important to know how to calculate them correctly.

Handle profile location

A sliding wardrobe is a very convenient piece of furniture. A little over ten years ago, he thoroughly moved the rows of conventional cabinets with hinged doors into the corresponding market segment and has not lost his position to this day. A sliding wardrobe saves space, looks stylish and is more convenient to use compared to conventional wardrobes. Today I will talk about options for purchasing this type of furniture. There are several of them and the choice of a specific one depends only on personal preferences.

Buying a wardrobe in a store

If you have a desire to purchase a wardrobe, the simplest thing you can do in this case is to go to any furniture store, fortunately there is no shortage of them, choose a ready-made wardrobe and buy it. This option is the least labor-intensive and is perfect for people who are not picky about cabinet design and are not limited in their choice by the need to adjust the cabinet to the size of the available space. But what to do if you have a non-standard tiny hallway? Or if your apartment is located on the attic floor and all the store cabinets do not fit into it in height? Personally, as the owner of an attic apartment, I encountered exactly this problem. The variable height of the diagonally sloping ceiling initially dispels all thoughts of buying a ready-made cabinet. Also, buying a wardrobe from a manufacturer will not suit you if you are an esthete and would like to have an exclusive wardrobe that fits perfectly in color and appearance into the design of your apartment. The same applies to lovers of technological innovations who are partial to non-standard functional solutions and high-quality fittings. For such people, manufacturing/purchasing a wardrobe based on individual calculations is suitable. Here, depending on the desire and ability to take part in the process, options are possible.

Manufacturing of wardrobes on a turnkey basis

There are, perhaps, as many companies engaged in the manufacture of furniture, including custom cabinets, as there are ready-made furniture stores. In most of them, the service is at a fairly high level. If you wish, you can order a wardrobe without leaving your home. When you call, a specialist will come to you and take the measurements required by the designer. The same specialist will show you samples of the material used for finishing the facades and a catalog of models from which you can choose the design of your future cabinet. However, it is worth noting that the most preferable option is to come to the manufacturer’s office and discuss everything on the spot. In the office you will be able to see samples of not only finishing materials, but also samples of chipboard/fibreboard, fittings, lighting fixtures used as cabinet lighting, and other materials. In addition, many companies provide the opportunity, on your first visit, to design on a computer together with a designer the appearance of the future cabinet and the location of the shelves in it. Next comes the process of manufacturing cabinet parts, which, depending on the company’s workload with orders, can take from two weeks to two months. The last stage is the delivery of parts and assembly of the cabinet, which is usually also carried out by the company’s employees. This option is almost perfect, with two exceptions. First, the manufacturer must be selected according to recommendations, otherwise there is a risk of poor quality execution of the order. Secondly, the cost of a wardrobe obtained in this way will be the highest among all possible options. Cabinets from the manufacturer are manufactured on-line according to standardized drawings, but when ordering individually, you have to involve both a designer and a measurer each time, which increases the price. Individual cutting of the material and assembly of the finished cabinet also increases the final cost..., in the end, the coordinator of the entire process should not be left at a loss either. All this increases the price of the cabinet by 3-5 times compared to the cost. Fortunately, these costs can be reduced in the two options below to achieve the goal.

Manufacturing and assembling a wardrobe at home

The desire to save money may lead you to think about making your own wardrobe. This is possible thanks to the existence of calculation calculators, which are very easy to work with. All you need is to enter the desired parameters (number of shelves, section sizes, cabinet height, etc.), after which the calculation program will give you a detailed drawing indicating the dimensions of each part, the total area of ​​the required material, the number of fasteners and other necessary parameters. However, before going to the store to buy materials, you should think carefully and weigh the pros and cons. Making a cabinet requires at least experience working with carpentry tools and materials such as chipboard / fiberboard / MDF, polymer / paper-resin films / plastics (laminate). Otherwise, a self-made wardrobe will look sloppy, “clumsy”, its geometric plane will not be ideal, the parts are not joined tightly, and so on... It is also necessary to have a large number of tools, among which are required: a carpentry saw or a circular cutter, a level, a drill, screwdriver If you do not have a separate room (garage, storage room) in which you could cut parts, get ready for the fact that during the work your apartment will be full of wood dust. I will add that edging parts and lining cabinet facades at home is almost impossible to do, since special equipment is used for this. Even just assembling a cabinet takes quite a lot of time (more than one day), and if you add cutting to this, the time will increase to a couple of weeks. Plus, there is always a risk of spoiling any part due to your own inexperience. Therefore, the best option for me seems to be to order cutting in a carpentry shop, and then assemble the wardrobe yourself.

Independent calculation of cabinet parts and custom cutting

So, the last, most optimal option is to independently calculate the wardrobe and then order the manufacture of parts from a company specializing in this. The total financial costs for the implementation of this option in comparison with the manufacture of a turnkey cabinet are 2.5-4 times lower. The deadlines are very tight: in many companies, if necessary, cutting can be done even in your presence. After that, all that remains is to pick up the finished parts and assemble the wardrobe at home yourself or use the services of a furniture assembler. Self-assembly will take no more than 2-3 weekdays (in stages in the evenings) or one weekend. Again, the quality of the cut depends on the degree of responsibility of the chosen company and the availability of specialized equipment. In this regard, I would like to recommend the Chaika company, which is one of the leaders in providing such services in Moscow. Excellent quality materials (Egger, Krono, Rehau, Maza, etc.) can be purchased directly on site. All work is carried out on German machines and cutting centers Altendorf and Mayer, edge banding machines Tornado (Paul Ott GmbH), a GANNOmat ProTec drilling machine and other professional equipment, each of which is designed for a strictly defined type of work. The integrity and quality of work performed, the high level of service have been tested by the experience of a huge number of the company’s clients, as well as by my personal experience. With this I say goodbye to you, thank you for your attention.

Sliding wardrobes, which not so long ago were considered completely exotic interior items that could only be seen in glossy catalogs or in very “rich” apartments, have gradually entered the everyday life of the average family. Such furniture designs combine practicality, spaciousness, and savings in usable space, and on top of all this, they fit very well into the interior of the room, often becoming its central design element.

And yet, if you look at the price lists of companies engaged in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes, sometimes the prospect of such an acquisition looks somewhat frightening. Therefore, many owners who know how to hold carpentry and plumbing tools in their hands have questions - is it possible to make such an interior item themselves? It turns out that this is quite possible. The biggest difficulty is the sliding door design. However, this should not be scary - in specialized stores you can purchase special kit systems that will help you assemble beautiful and functional doors for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, of course, if diligence, accuracy, and a clear sequence of all technological operations are applied.

What is included in the kit for wardrobe doors

This article will not discuss the process of installing the cabinet itself with shelves, side walls, drawers, etc. The point is completely different - the defining element of such a piece of furniture is precisely. By and large, no matter how paradoxical it may sound, a wardrobe may simply not even be a “wardrobe” in the literal sense of the word.

Various options for sliding wardrobes, which sometimes are not even “closets”

Thus, with a movable door structure you can fence off a long niche in the wall, placing in the resulting space both ordinary shelves and racks, bedside tables, etc. Often, such a partition separates the end part of the room, along its entire width, from wall to wall, and in height - from floor to ceiling. And the resulting mini-room can serve as both a spacious closet and a storage room, and sometimes even a small office. A similar design is also used for installation in the corner of a room or hallway - as a result, the owners have a triangular “closet” at their disposal, which can be used as a closet and for other needs, for example, even for “home parking” of a bicycle.

In a word, there can be an innumerable number of options. But they all have one thing in common - . Correctly mounted sashes move effortlessly along their guides, alternately allowing one or another section of the “cabinet” to be opened, and in the closed position they fit tightly, without gaps, to the vertical planes framing the structure.

Doors for wardrobes

You should not assume that the numerous local companies involved in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes use some of their own designs or mechanisms. In the vast majority of cases, ready-made systems are used for this, which can be purchased at furniture fittings stores. Usually they represent a certain set of metal (usually aluminum) profiles and the necessary components: roller mechanisms, plugs, gaskets, jumpers, fasteners, etc. These systems help assemble the frame structure of the doors and the mechanism for moving them, but each master is free to choose his own internal filling - mirrors, transparent or tinted glass, plastic, laminated fiberboard or MDF and other materials.

There are many such systems for sliding wardrobe doors. They may differ in the configuration and material of the profiles, the principle of installation of parts, the level of complexity of the roller mechanism, the adjustment system, etc. Our publication will discuss the Aristo system as one of the most popular, proven to be reliable, and quite easy to install yourself. In addition, it is pleasant to know that these are products of our domestic manufacturer, which have won recognition abroad.

Aristo profiles are made of primary aluminum and have a precisely calibrated geometry, which allows you to assemble door structures with high precision. The system involves sliding doors, the load from which falls on the lower roller. It is equipped with a metal rolling bearing that does not require lubrication throughout its entire service life, and ensures smooth and silent movement of the sash along the guide without applying much effort. The upper rollers play a stabilizing role, hold the canvas in a vertical position and ensure its smooth movement relative to the upper guide.

The manufacturer of the kits claims that the resource built into the mechanism, if assembled correctly, will be enough for one hundred thousand (!) closing and opening cycles - a more than impressive figure.

The manufacturer offers a wide selection of color designs for aluminum profiles - it is possible to mount a structure that will fit perfectly into the interior without standing out, or, conversely, sharply contrasting against the general background.

Wood-look profiles are covered with a high-strength two-layer laminating film, and monochrome parts receive their shade using anodizing technology.

Aristo profiles allow the production of sliding doors filled with glass (4 mm thick), a composition of glass with plywood or fiberboard (6 or 8 mm thick) or from chipboard, MDF panels (10 mm thick). The maximum door dimensions can be: up to 1500 mm wide, up to 3300 mm high, the permissible weight of one leaf is up to 160 kg.

What are the main components included in the Aristo system (an option with guides for two or more sashes is being considered):

№№	Illustration	Dimensions	Short description
1.			Side handle-stand, open type, asymmetrical, profile C.
2.			Side handle-stand, closed type, symmetrical, profile N.
3.			The upper guide profile (track) is double-slide.
4.			The lower guide profile (track) is double-slide.
5.			Upper door frame. The channel for screwing in the assembly self-tapping screw is clearly visible.
6.			Lower door frame. The same mounting channel for the screw, and the high profile shelves create a niche for placing support rollers.
7.			The door frame is medium without additional fixation with a self-tapping screw. It is used when using several fragments of filling in cases where reinforced fixation of the lintel is not required - it will be held by the filling panels (for example, if rigid chipboard or 10 mm MDF boards are used).
8.			Middle door frame with screw fixation. Able to add additional rigidity to the door frame. It is advisable to use when used as fragments of filling glass or mirrors, or when the entire door leaf structure has significant dimensions.
9.			Straight stop. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening at the point where they adjoin the walls.
10.			Shaped stop. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening if they are walls made of chipboard panels.
11.			P-profile. Optional element. Can be used to frame the ends of chipboard panels used in the installation of the cabinet structure, in places where they are adjacent to the floor, ceiling, and walls.
12.		-	The upper roller is symmetrical. Used when using closed vertical profiles N.
13.		-	The upper roller is asymmetrical. Used when using open vertical profiles C. Each sash requires a set of two rollers.
14.		-	Lower support roller with adjusting screw. Each sash requires a set of two rollers. The AB74 adjusting screw has a 6 mm hex head.
15.		-	Assembly screw AB75, with self-tapping working part. The head is for a 6 mm internal hexagon. One screw for each connecting node.
16.		-	Spring stopper. Optional element. Provides fixation of the door in the closed position.
17.		-	Silicone rubber seal. It is laid along the perimeter of the door filling inserts. They vary in size - a seal is available for inserts of 4, 6 and 8 mm thickness. When using 10 mm thick filling, no seal is used.
18.		-	Schlegel is a self-adhesive strip of plastic and lint. It is glued along the entire height of the door leaf from the end part - for this purpose a special groove is provided on profiles C and H. Schlegel softens the impact of the door on the cabinet walls, and when the door is closed, it prevents the penetration of dust.

There are several more items that can be purchased upon request - closers, magnetic stoppers, locks, caps for the ends of profiles, etc. But they no longer directly affect the process of assembling and installing wardrobe doors under consideration.

The principle of assembling doors for a sliding wardrobe with the “Aristo” system

Everything in the configuration of the profiles and fittings of the Aristo system is thought out, so installing the door structure should not cause much difficulty.

A schematic diagram of the assembly of one door leaf with vertical profiles of type C is shown in the drawing. Here and below, the numbering of profile and fitting elements is observed in full accordance with the detailing table located above.

Profiles 3 and 4 are fixed respectively to the ceiling (cabinet lid) and floor (cabinet base), and are fixed parts of the system.

Installation of the door leaf structure is carried out using assembly screws (item 15). No. 14a shows the adjusting screw for the lower support roller.

The drawing does not show the option of central horizontal jumpers, if they are necessary. But their installation is fundamentally no different. They are either simply inserted without additional fixation (there are special sides on the inside of the vertical posts for precise centering), or they are fixed with an assembly screw according to the same principle as the upper crossbar of the door.

Below is an assembly drawing for the option using a vertical profile type H.

There is no fundamental difference - just a different, symmetrical type of upper rollers is used for these profiles. True, there will still be differences in the calculation of dimensions and in the installation of the upper and lower guide profiles (runners).

Calculations of door sizes for sliding wardrobes of the Aristo system

The assembly of the door will only be of high quality if careful, down to the millimeter, calculations are carried out, and the parts are prepared very carefully according to the obtained dimensions. No negligence or calculations “by eye” are allowed - this will certainly lead not only to a sloppy appearance, but also to distortions and even jamming of the door structure.

Calculations are carried out in the following sequence:

• The exact dimensions of the opening into which the door structure will be installed are determined.

The diagram shows wall structures, floor and ceiling, but these can also be the walls of a mounted cabinet - the principle does not change.

Initial dimensions - the length and height of the opening in which the movable door structure will be installed

At the output we have two values: opening length – Lп and its height is Np, from which the further countdown will begin.

It is extremely important to pay attention to the fact that the upper and lower boundaries of the opening must be strictly horizontal along their entire length. If the deviation from the side walls from the vertical, although extremely undesirable, can still be somehow compensated for by decorative finishing, then even small deviations from the horizontal will lead to looseness or jamming of the movable sashes.

Often, in order to compensate for slight unevenness in the floor and ceiling, and to facilitate further fastening of the guide profiles, smooth panels (strips), for example, made of chipboard, are mounted above and below along the entire length of the opening. In this case, the height of the opening is measured after installing such pads, or their thickness must be taken into account - subtracted from the total height of the opening.

• After measuring the opening, you can immediately obtain the height of the door structure, that is, the length of the required vertical handle profiles (1 or 2).

Regardless of the profile type, it is always equal

Нд = Нп – 40 mm

• Opening length Lп immediately gives the length of the lower and upper guide profiles (3 and 4).

There may be a nuance here. If you plan to install a frame from a straight or shaped stop (profiles 9 or 10), then the length of guides 3 and 4 will decrease by 3 mm (1.5 mm on each side due to the thickness of the frame).

Ld =Lп – 3 mm

The length of profiles 9 and 10 is always equal to the “net” height of the opening Np.

• The next question is the width of the door leaf.

This indicator depends on the total length of the opening and on the planned number of movable sashes, and on the vertical handle profile used, and even on the presence or absence of a schlegel.

With significant opening lengths, you should not strive for large door leaf widths - they turn out to be too massive and not entirely convenient to use. It is quite possible to place two, three, four or even five sashes on double-runner guides. Despite the fact that even 1500 mm is allowed, they usually try to keep the width of each within the range of 750 ÷ 900 mm.

Initial value for calculating the width of the sash ( Lс) – opening length Lп and the planned number of sashes.

The following ratios are used for calculations:

	Presence of Schlegel	Profile C	Profile N
2 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2	Lс = (Lп + 35) / 2
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 15) / 2	Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2
3 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 3	Lс = (Lп + 70) / 3
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 40) / 3	Lс = (Lп + 60) / 3
4 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4	Lc = (Lp + 70) / 4
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 30) / 4	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4
5 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 100) / 5	Lс = (Lп + 140) / 5
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 90) / 5	Lс = (Lп + 130) / 5

In order not to get confused in the formulas, we suggest using the built-in calculator, which will quickly calculate the required sash width