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Doing overhaul apartment, office or home, you will definitely encounter the need for plastering work. This process is very time consuming and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save on the repair budget, you decide to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the solution, read our article, complete guide plastering the walls with your own hands.
Wall plastering can be done in several ways.
The main requirements for the quality of the plastering work being carried out are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide not to do the work yourself, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high-quality plaster.
It is in this way that significant wall irregularities can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is done perfectly evenly with a tolerance of 1 mm / sq.m.
Price for plastering work is from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you do not hire workers.
First of all, you need to buy a puncher and a bubble level 2 m long. All other consumables will be listed below. All these accessories will be enough for 6,000 rubles, so you will save money after leveling one wall with an area of 15 square meters. m.
If you want to level the walls with an area of 90 square meters. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! You will have the whole tool forever, and if you already have it, then it’s a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, then we will definitely be sure of their quality.
To better understand the process of leveling walls, look at the following on plaster:
Note! If you are tiling, the minimum layer of plaster should be 10 mm. In addition, grouting is not required, since for the greatest adhesion of the tile to the wall, it will be necessary to create artificial bumps.
The result of the work is shown in the photo:
The plastering of external walls (facades) according to the technology of lighthouses is almost the same as inside the premises. The main thing here is to comply temperature regime. The temperature outside must be above zero.
For facades, a mixture based on cement and sand is usually used. For greater durability, a metal mesh can be attached to the facade and plastered over it. It is especially important to use a grid if the walls of the house are made of sand-lime bricks.
We have examined in detail how to properly plaster walls with the help of beacons. Now you can easily do these works with your own hands. Do not be discouraged if you do not succeed in this business the first time, everything goes with experience, and you will definitely learn how to make the walls perfectly even. We also recommend that you read our article about.
What are the types of plaster compositions? The article discusses the technology of plastering walls on lighthouses, the sequence and rules for preparing the base and.
Plastering is the most common way to level walls and ceilings. Properly carried out plastering work allows you to get a smooth, perfectly vertical surface of the walls. To simplify the process and improve the result, plaster beacons are used.
In this way, you can align the walls from various materials: brick, concrete, aerated concrete, plaster and even wood. In the layer of plaster, you can hide technical communications, such as wires for electrical networks and low-voltage systems. The walls, leveled with plaster, are a solid basis for fastening, hanging shelves and various household appliances.
There are several main types of plaster mixes:
Currently, plaster compositions based on gypsum binder are most often used indoors with a normal level of humidity. They dry relatively quickly compared to cement mortars and are more convenient to use, but more expensive than cement counterparts.
To form a plane during plastering, a special galvanized beacon profile is used. The most common are 2 profile sizes: 6 and 10 mm high. Using a thinner profile allows you to reduce the layer of mortar applied to the surface, but requires better fixing and more experience in work. The 10 mm high beacon is more bendable, which allows you to mount it less frequently. For plastering outside corners special corner profiles are used.
Wall plastering on lighthouses can be done manually or by machine:
The choice of method depends on the type of plastering machine. Next, the plaster mortar under pressure is fed through a hose to the wall. Then, in both methods, the mixture is leveled by the rule.
Before you need to properly prepare the walls. Must be removed old paint, putty, wallpaper, etc. to the base. If the surface is already plastered, peeling, destroyed or weakened areas must be removed.
To carry out the work you will need:
After cleaning the surface to the base, it is imperative to prime the walls. Before priming, the walls must be cleaned of dust.
The type of primer should be selected based on the surface material.
After priming, a gypsum plaster mortar is thrown onto the pre-marked places, beacons cut to size from floor to ceiling are installed, and pressed into the solution at a certain distance using a long rule. Excess solution is removed with a spatula. With sufficient experience and high speed of work, alabaster can be used for fastening.
Beacons are installed at a distance of 150-200 mm from the corners, then every 80-150 cm. The distance between the profiles is chosen based on the length of the rule. At long distance between beacons is not very convenient to work.
You can mark up in several ways.
When marking with a laser level, the tool is set so that the beam is projected parallel to the plane of the wall. A line is applied to the rule at a certain distance from the edge, the rule is set on the beacon and pressed into the solution according to the coincidence of the laser line with the line on the rule.
When installing with a plumb or bubble level, extreme beacons are installed, they are set strictly vertically, a thread is pulled between them and intermediate profiles are set along the thread.
On sale you can find systems for fastening the beacon profile. In them, the fasteners are installed on the wall and are adjusted vertically using self-tapping screws. These systems are not widely used due to increasing cost. Supplies and thickness of the plaster layer.
The solution is kneaded with a construction mixer in a large bucket. The container should be of such volume as to minimize the number of batches, but at the same time, such that it is convenient to move it. Instructions for mixing the mixture are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
Water and tools must be clean. The ingress of pebbles into the solution will not allow you to get smooth surface, kneading in a dirty container reduces the pot life of the gypsum mortar.
After installing the beacons, the solution to which they are fixed is allowed to dry. Then the solution is thrown with a spatula or trowel, the excess is removed with a trapezoidal rule. In places where there is not enough mixture - add a solution. The rule is carried out, tightly pressing against the lighthouses, from the bottom up with wave-like movements.
The solution remaining on the rule is thrown onto the wall. When the solution begins to dry, moisten the surface with a sponge or spray gun and smooth it with a wide spatula or trowel. This allows you to get ideal, suitable for painting or wallpapering without putty.
Beacons must be removed after the plaster layer has completely dried, otherwise rust spots or cracks may appear.
Before plastering gypsum or aerated concrete walls, they must be well moistened, because. these materials absorb water well, the solution dries up, which leads to the formation of cracks. To strengthen the plaster, you can use a plastic plaster mesh. It is attached to the wall before installing the beacons in a thin layer of plaster.
Concrete walls are treated with primers of the Betonokontakt type to create a rough surface and improve adhesion. plaster composition with a base. The seams between the bricks are embroidered.
On the wooden wall before plastering, waterproofing is arranged, for example, from glassine, then a metal plaster mesh is fixed in a thin layer of mortar, additionally fastened with construction stapler or upholstery nails, after which beacons are installed and the main layer of plaster is applied.
To align the corners, a special perforated galvanized corner profile is used. Attach it to the corner after installing the beacons on both planes. The easiest way to install a corner profile is to apply plaster mortar to the corner and press the profile to the desired depth using a long rule.
Beacons must be installed very carefully, because errors in the installation of beacons will lead to uneven walls, which will be very difficult to fix in the future. According to SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings» with high-quality plaster, vertical deviations of no more than 1 mm per meter and irregularities no deeper than 2 mm are allowed.
Plastering walls on beacons - enough difficult process requiring great accuracy and speed of work. With insufficient experience, it is recommended to "practice" on the walls, which will then be closed, for example tiles, or in utility rooms where surface quality is not of great importance.
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Today, wall plastering on lighthouses is carried out with two options for approaching the matter - with your own hands or with the help of specialists. It is up to you to choose which method you prefer. But not the last role in the choice is played by the price. Now the services of masters will cost from 400 rubles per square meter. And that's not including the purchase of materials. By doing it yourself, you can save an impressive amount of money that can be spent on home improvement. Therefore, let's talk about how to independently plaster the walls on the lighthouses. The alignment of beacons plays an important role in creating even surfaces. The beacon allows you to simplify the task of alignment. However, in order to master the plastering of walls on lighthouses with your own hands, a video lesson will definitely not be superfluous.
Before you put the beacons under the plaster, you need to pick up the mixture. Plaster is the main material that will take part in finishing work. It is difficult to say exactly how much mortar you need, since you first need to calculate the number of square meters to be finished.
With a wide choice of plaster, experts recommend opting for cement or gypsum bases. They are characterized by high quality and reliability. At the same time, cement is excellent for outdoor and internal works, and gypsum are used only indoors.
When comparing parameters and specifications, as a result, in most cases it is worth choosing gypsum plasters. But you are guided by your own needs and features of the premises.
Lighthouses for plaster walls and floors have their own characteristics. Lighthouse plastering provides for the purchase of these same lighthouses. They represent metal profiles with perforated surface. These holes play the role of a limiter necessary in the plastering process.
The dimensions of a standard beacon profile are as follows:
Pre-calculate how many beacons you need to finish the walls with plaster. The step between the beacons can be about 2 meters. The placement of beacons depends on your skills, as well as the size of the rule with which you will align the walls.
Professionals, having extensive experience, easily cope with alignment at a step of 2 meters. But beginners are not recommended to set beacons at a distance of more than 1.5 meters from each other. Plastering walls without beacons is quite possible if the surfaces are in a fairly satisfactory condition. When the walls are crooked, plastering the walls under the lighthouse will help correct the situation and ensure that all subsequent finishing materials are applied evenly.
Do-it-yourself plastering of walls on lighthouses involves the use of not only the plaster itself, lighthouses and rules. To work, you will need a fairly wide range of tools and materials. Sample list as follows:
The list may vary, so be guided by your own needs in the plastering process.
Plastering walls on lighthouses with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you watch video tutorials, consult with experts, and follow the instructions clearly, you can easily install beacons, lay plaster and bring the walls to perfect condition. We will help you with this.
The procedure is divided into four main steps:
Now about each of them in more detail.
Let's divide the process of plastering into several steps.
Beacons for plastering walls should be in accordance with the requirements and rules. Here the work is carried out in the following steps:
Once the plaster is dry, start sanding it. Don't be in a hurry. Read on the packaging how long the plaster of your choice dries.
Grouting is done with a small amount of liquid consistency plaster. The wall section should be pre-moistened.
The solution is applied to the trowel and smeared on the surface with a thin layer. Hold the float at an angle of at least 45 degrees.
Is it worth it to do the plastering of the walls with your own hands? In many cases, this is financially justified. If you have the necessary experience or at least a minimum amount of knowledge, it will not be difficult to do the decoration with your own hands.
If you have never done this yourself, it is better not to take risks, pay more, but entrust the work to professionals in this matter.
Technology plastering walls along lighthouses differs from the classical method of throwing plaster on the surface quite significantly. In addition, when there is too much plaster, it tends to slide down the wall surface, resulting in bumps right in the middle of the wall, which will be difficult to do anything about. Moreover, this option plastering usually not durable. After a few years, the surface may become covered with cracks or begin to flake off.
Lighthouse wall plastering
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Because the stucco guides are already installed, you won't need some of the tools provided to install them. But in the future, plastering on beacons should be carried out using such a set necessary tools and materials:
Acrylic primer for walls after plaster
To begin with, the surface of the walls must be carefully primed and allowed to dry. V summer period or in a heated room - at least two to three days, and in the cold season - about a week. The primer makes it possible to enhance the adhesion between materials, helps to remove dust residues and prevents the penetration of moisture. With special care, in several layers, walls made of brick and aerated concrete should be primed, since the surfaces of these materials absorb moisture very well. At the same time, for smooth walls made of concrete, Betonokontakt should be used, and for porous and well-absorbing surfaces made of bricks or aerated concrete blocks, a deep penetration primer solution is suitable.
You can also prepare a thin plaster mortar from a sand-cement mixture, which is thrown onto the walls with a ladle. This is also done to enhance adhesion (adhesion) between the wall surface and the plaster. Therefore, in the process it is very important to throw this kind of stucco "milk" on the walls without gaps, completely covering the surface with it.
By the way, the solution is thrown with force and from a certain distance, also precisely in order to increase adhesion to the wall. Such a wall covering should dry thoroughly. Preferably at least 2 days. Then you can apply cement-sand plaster.
The plaster solution is not applied arbitrarily, but between two adjacent beacons. And it must be applied as thickly as possible. Heaps of mortar are applied to the surface of the wall with special tools. If you decide to plaster the walls yourself, but you have no experience with special tools, that is alternative way. On hands it is necessary to apply any cream abundantly and put on construction gloves. Then the solution is taken directly by hand and is thrown with force onto the surface between the beacons.
Usually plastering starts from below, from the floor. Portions of plaster should densely, without gaps, fill a small space between two lighthouses, and also protrude slightly beyond the lighthouses. After that, you can give the solution a few minutes to grab a little on the surface, but not dry completely. Then, a rule is established on the two lighthouses, between which the plaster was thrown, and with several upward movements, all the tops of the piles of mortar protruding above the level of the lighthouses are removed and smoothed. The rule should be set with a sharp edge to the beacons and keep it as perpendicular as possible.
The surface of the walls must be carefully primed and allowed to dry.
Alignment work must be done carefully. Do not apply excessive pressure to the rule, as this may cause you to remove too much solution from the surface. If you accidentally “underpressure”, you can leave too thick a layer of plaster on the wall, which, moreover, can still slide down.
After the first section has been leveled with a rule, a new portion of plaster is also thrown on top of it on the wall surface, which is also leveled with zigzag movements from top to bottom.
Excess plaster, removed from the surface, can be used by adding a little water to smooth the surface after leveling with the rule.
After the area between two adjacent beacons has been completely leveled, it is necessary to carefully examine it for irregularities and, in particular, for the formation of bubbles. In these places, the plaster mortar after leveling does not come into contact with the wall surface, an air bubble remains under it. If this is not corrected now, before the plaster has dried, such bubbles will later cause the plaster to peel off. In these places it is necessary to carefully clean the plaster from the surface of the wall with a spatula. Then carefully, without gaps, sketch it again and level it with the rule.
Using a spatula, carefully scrape off the plaster from the wall surface.
We must also not forget that the plaster mortar is a rather heavy thing and, under its own weight, can gradually slide down. Especially if it was bred not according to the instructions and too liquid. Therefore, before preparing the solution, you must carefully read the instructions and follow the proportions recommended by the manufacturer.
You can also plaster the surface, throwing the solution not from the floor up, but vice versa - move from above to the floor. Thus, the layer floating down will be constantly pulled up by the rule.
Additional difficulties may arise when the plaster layer is very thick, more than 20 mm. In such cases, cracks may form on the surface during the drying process. To avoid troubles such as surface cracking, experts advise in places where the intended layer of plaster will be thick, apply plaster in two steps, in layers.
First, the first thin layer of plaster is carefully applied to the surface, avoiding gaps. It will be rough, and there is no need to perfectly level it. The main thing is that there are no voids under this layer of solution. This draft layer is left alone until completely dry. A new layer of mortar is poured on top of the dry one. The method of throwing with force allows you to reliably fill the irregularities of the first layer. The upper, finishing layer already needs to be carefully, according to all the rules, leveled and grouted.
The top layer must be carefully leveled and grouted
If you have to deal with difficult areas such as rounded protrusions, depressions, as well as docking points with window and door openings, you should use only factory mixtures. Of course, they will cost more, but it’s easier to prepare them for use (you just need to strictly follow the instructions from the manufacturer), but such a solution will have an ideal consistency and better adhesion for setting with figured surfaces. In some cases, it’s better not to save too much, so that after a couple of years you don’t have to make repairs or even completely redo the plaster.
So, all the areas between the beacons are filled and aligned. The remaining fragments between the corners and the extreme beacons of the walls are filled with plaster in the same way, but they are leveled by the rule already, using the plane of the wall section on which the work is completed. The second end of the rule is installed on a perforated corner, pre-installed in the corner of the room.
After the plastering of the walls under the lighthouse is completely finished, it is necessary to check how evenly it is done. This can be done quite easily with the help of the available rule. Just apply it to the wall surface at different angles. If in the process of such control tubercles of more than one millimeter are found, they can be removed without problems with the sharp edge of the trowel. Fresh plaster, not completely dry, is scraped off quite easily.
The cracks found in the drying surface must be carefully repaired with a liquid solution and smoothed out with a rule.
Checking an even layer of plaster using a rule
If a non-galvanized steel profile or wooden slats, they must be removed from the plaster layer until it is completely dry. Non-galvanized steel will begin to oxidize over time, which is fraught with the appearance of rust stains on the surface of the wall. This is especially unpleasant when rust spots begin to appear after finishing, on new wallpaper or other decorative coating. In turn, wooden slats absorb moisture well from environment, as a result of which they can be deformed. Because of this, cracks and bumps may appear on the surface.
The easiest way to remove the beacons is with a screwdriver: just pry them with the tip of a screwdriver and pull them out of the plaster.
The easiest way to remove the beacons is with a screwdriver.
In place of the lighthouses, deep strobes remain in the surface of fresh plaster. They must be filled with fresh plaster with a spatula, and then carefully leveled. In order to reliably, without gaps and voids, close up the voids formed after the removal of the beacons, experts recommend using a narrow spatula and laying the solution in the strobe with crosswise movements, while slightly pressing the solution into the recess. After such a peculiar scar on a freshly plastered surface is filled with a solution, these places must be carefully leveled, smoothing with the level of the plaster.
Surface grouting is the final stage of wall plastering, which is complex and laborious. Therefore, if you do not have certain skills, it is better to turn to specialists. If you want to save on inviting specialists and still decide to do the work yourself, you should take care of the availability of the necessary set of tools in advance.
You will need:
Grouting plastered wall surfaces
Grouting works are carried out only after the entire surface of the wall is already covered with a layer of plaster, the moisture from the solution has evaporated, but not until completely dry. Otherwise, the surface will have to be additionally moistened before grouting. The main purpose of grouting is to seal the mortar and achieve the most durable adhesion of the plaster layer to the base.
For grouting, the plaster solution is made more liquid and prepared in small portions. A small amount of mortar is poured into the container from a bucket, and then it is gently poured onto a small area of the plastered wall or applied directly to the iron. It is easier to work with an area of about one square meter. Then the actual grouting begins. To do this, the grater makes smooth circular movements on the surface. Perhaps the process is something akin to ironing bed linen. The grater simply performs the final leveling of the surface. In the process, recesses and defective places are smoothed out. The purpose of the grout is to get a flat and smooth surface, to correct and even out all the differences between the portions of the mortar, irregularities and depressions.
For grouting, the plaster solution is made more liquid and prepared in small portions.
Just like the plaster itself, the grouting of the surface is carried out in turn, small areas, until the moment when on the surface ironed after holding on the surface of the wall there will be practically no solution left. After grouting one section, the next fragment is thrown with a solution and grouted.
Plaster beacons are narrow metal profiles with holes that are used to create smooth surfaces. Plastering walls on beacons can be carried out without the use of these elements - they are replaced with gypsum beacons, which are formed independently. This is a rather complicated process, which is not recommended for novice inexperienced craftsmen. But it allows you to apply a thin layer of plaster (less than 6 mm).
Lighthouse plaster requires some tools and supplies. For this event you will need the following:
At first glance, the list may seem too long, but the master may already have all these tools and materials, the most important thing is the presence of a puncher, everything else is inexpensive.
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The first step is to clear the room of everything that can interfere, and then remove the old coating. The plaster is knocked down with a perforator with a chisel, the paints are removed with solvents, the wallpaper is soaked and scraped off with spatulas. Then you need to tap the surface with a hammer to detect weak fragments, if there are any, then you need to remove them.
Further, it is necessary to carefully examine the surface, regularly applying a building level to it to determine the deviation from the vertical. After that, you need to go through the area long rule to identify all depressions and protrusions, each of which should be marked with a marker.
Now you can start marking. For good example take a wall 4.5 m long, 2.75 m high. This design has a doorway 0.9x2.05 m. Step back from the corners by 30 cm and draw two strictly vertical lines using building level. The distance between the lighthouse profiles should be 160 cm, so that it is convenient to level the plaster with a rule of 2.5 m in length. 160 cm must be retreated from the line near the right corner and draw the same vertical line. 2.3 m of the wall remain unmarked. This distance should be divided in half, and then draw the remaining lines with an interval of 115 cm.
Then you should again take up the extreme lines. Beacons should be slightly shorter than the rule. The standard length of this tool is 2.5 m, so allowable length beacons - 2.45 m. Since the height of the ceilings in this case is 2.75 m, then 15 cm should be retreated from the floor and ceiling, then drill holes at these points and drive in dowels with self-tapping screws. Then you should stretch two threads between drilled holes. At the intersection of the thread with other drawn lines, marks should be made with a marker. At the end, you need to drill holes at the intersections, drive dowels into them, but you do not need to screw in the screws yet. The result should be 2 horizontal lines of holes that go clearly in a row.
Plastering surfaces on lighthouses requires preliminary priming surfaces. This operation ensures that the solution is in close contact with the surface. For smooth, non-porous coatings suitable Betonkontakt, for hydrophilic primers a deep action primer is required. The primer is applied with a paint roller or brush, this should be done 2 times with an interval of 4 hours. Work continues only after the surfaces have completely dried. You need to do the following:
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Before setting up beacons for plaster, it is necessary to make a plaster mortar. It should be the same as that planned to be used for the entire cultivated area. If a gypsum mortar is used, then it is prepared in small portions. Cement and lime mixtures leave for 15 minutes before application. At this time, you need to cut the beacons. For ease of installation, it is better to make a length of 2.4 m so that they do not reach the screws a little.
Plaster is applied to the line so that it protrudes slightly upwards above the self-tapping screws. After that, the beacon is pressed into the solution so that it is flush with the caps of the fasteners. This is how all beacons are installed. At the end, you can unscrew the screws. After installing the beacons, it is necessary to check the work done by the building level.
One of the most popular is cement-sand mortar, to make it you need to do the following:
On a note! Self-prepared plaster will be significantly different from the factory. During the manufacture of the latter, special additives are used that significantly increase performance characteristics finished coating, so it is recommended to buy ready-made dry mixes.
Preparation of plaster mortar
Mortar based on lime and cement:
Gypsum plaster with the addition of lime:
Important! V plaster mortars can only be added slaked lime. Quicklime will continue to react with water, first in the container, and then on the walls, causing the coating to crack.
Do-it-yourself wall plastering consists of 3 stages:
Important! Proceed to the next decorative work(painting, wallpapering, tiling) is possible only after the surfaces have completely dried. Depending on the type of material, it may take up to 28 days.
At this stage, the plastering of the lighthouses is completed, but the corners, as well as the areas near the floor and ceiling, remain unfinished. These are rather narrow strips, so the solution is applied and leveled with an ordinary spatula. The application technology is no different, only the evenness of the corners needs to be checked with a metal corner.
Plastering walls on lighthouses with your own hands is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, so if there is the slightest doubt in your abilities, it is better not to try to save money, but immediately turn to specialists.