Flowerbed in the form of a basket with their own hands. Do-it-yourself wicker fence for a flower bed

When spring comes, followed by summer, it's time to lay out flower beds that delight the eye with delicate aromas and a riot of colors. But in order to make them look even more attractive and organically combined with other decorative elements of the backyard, it is best to make do-it-yourself wicker flower beds for flowers and other plants, temporary and financial expenses for the manufacture of which will be minimal.

Materials for the manufacture of wicker flower beds

To make a wicker flower bed, first of all, you should stock up on material. As it is used rods and branches of trees, distinctive feature which is flexibility. Among them:

• Willow rods.
• Hazel rods.
• Birch rods.
• Willow twigs.
• Dogwood branches.
• Apple tree branches.
• Raspberry branches.
• Vine.

All of the above shoots are distinguished by their considerable length and evenness, it is very easy to remove the bark from them, and the surface under it turns out to be completely homogeneous. Such rods are allowed to be harvested all year round except June and July. In these months, the young shoots of last year are just beginning to bush, and the shoots of this year are loose and herbaceous, because they have not yet fully matured. It is best to prepare material for weaving flower beds closer to autumn, at the end of August, when the shoots have already reached the desired condition, and the movement of juices in them has slowed down. Such rods can be quickly cleaned of bark, and if necessary, split.

If the wicker basket flower bed is expected to be large, care must be taken to ensure a sufficient supply of shoots for the job. It is unrealistic to collect the required number of them in one day, since at the first stage at least 1.5-2 thousand rods will be required. Chopped shoots and twigs should be cleaned from the bark immediately after collection within 2-3 hours and split before they dry. Alignment with a knife can be done a little later.

In the case when the preparation of the material for weaving could not be done immediately and the shoots dried up or when they were harvested in the cold season, the rods are boiled in water or boiled with boiling water for 30-40 minutes, and only after that they start cleaning and splitting. At home, such heat treatment is quite acceptable, for example, in an iron can of herring, where the weaving material is folded up.

We should not forget that the bark of the shoots contains tannins, so the tapes that are obtained from steamed, but not yet peeled rods, will color the container in Brown color. Therefore, it is not recommended to perform such operations in the bath; in extreme cases, it is covered with a synthetic film.

Sometimes, instead of boiling, the so-called method of "revitalizing" the rods is used. For two to three weeks they are placed with thick ends in a container of water, immersed to a depth of 5-10 cm. Periodically it is necessary to change the water. As soon as the first green leaves appear on the shoots, they are cleaned and split.

Trimming the rods has a beneficial effect on the growth of shrubs, the splendor of which increases significantly. If wicker beds are supposed to be made constantly, it is good to start your own "plantations" of the material, planting new cuttings on them every year. This should be done in May or October. Do it like this:

• A cutting is cut from the middle of the rod, the diameter of which is 3-4 mm, and the length reaches 25 cm.
• Make a hole in the soil with a sharp stick.
• The cutting is placed in the ground to a depth of at least 20 cm. In this case, the thin end of the shoot with several buds should protrude 4-5 cm above the soil surface.

Finished rods must be sorted by thickness and width, moistened, rolled into coils and stored only in a dry place. Before work, they are slightly moistened with a shower or simply wiped with a damp sponge, after which the material is ready for further use.

Types of wicker flower beds

To create wicker flower beds with your own hands, the photos of which are presented in the article, you should decide on their variety. These products are of two types:

• Ground wicker flower bed. This is the most common option. If the area of ​​​​the flower garden is large enough, it is made in the form of a wicker fence in rustic style, which protects plants from accidental stepping on them, and also plays a decorative role. Often there are also ground flower beds in the form of baskets, which are more compact in size. If a wicker fence-border is more often square or rectangular, then the basket is different round shape and the presence of a handle, which makes it possible, if necessary, to transfer it from place to place. The height of the basket varies widely: the smaller the diameter of such a flower bed, the higher its walls will be. The handle is made of several thin and long branches placed between the bars of the basket. The bottom of the flower bed is covered with a film, earth and drainage are poured into it. Often, flowers in flower bed baskets grow much better, since the likelihood of weeds germinating in them is negligible, and the soil warms up well.

• Hanging wicker flower bed. Its advantage is ease of placement: a hanging flower bed looks good on the veranda, on the wall of the house, and even on tree branches. This product attracts with a variety of shapes: depending on personal preferences, it is woven in the form of a basket, cone, ball or made rectangular. However, it is imperative to take care of the reliability and strength of fastening for a suspended flower bed. In addition, it is good if it rotates 360 degrees. This will allow the plant in the flower bed to be rotated in such a way as to protect it from constantly changing direction. sun rays. To prevent moisture from evaporating from the hanging flowerbed of the basket, its walls are covered with moss that retains moisture, and the inside of such a planter is lined with a film.

Methods for making wicker flower beds

Making wicker flower beds in the country with your own hands is not difficult at all. This will require a minimum of time and effort. To make a flower bed in the form of a wicker fence for a flower garden, you need to take a secateurs or a sharp knife, a wooden mallet, flexible shoots, the diameter of which is 1-1.5 cm, pointed pegs from branches at least 2-3 cm thick. Now we actually proceed to the process :

• We choose the place where the future flower bed will be located. After that, we remove the upper soil layer along with the weeds and grass growing on it and determine the contours of the flower garden.
• We calculate the required number of pegs, based on the fact that they will need to be driven into the ground at a distance of 25-30 cm.

• To make the flower bed more durable, we drive in one more peg on both sides near the corner peg at a distance of no more than 5 cm. This allows you to connect the bars into an impromptu lock. To do this, without circumcision, we pass them through three corner sticks. Then the rods will not fall out, even if you accidentally hit the flower bed.
• Calculate the length of the vertical stakes. We determine the height of the fence and take pegs twice as long: the rest will be underground.
• We sharpen the stakes and treat them with an antiseptic to reduce the rate of decay in the ground. In some cases, metal supports are used, but this does not look too beautiful.
• We hammer the pegs with a mallet into the ground at the same distance from each other. The closer they are, the greater the strength of the flower bed will be.
• We take flexible and long rods with a length of at least 50 cm. It is desirable that one rod is enough to weave 3-4 spans. To increase elasticity, the shoots should be soaked in water the day before.
• We remove the bark from the rods and process it with a special compound to stop the decomposition process.
• We begin to weave rods around the stakes in a zigzag. In this case, the tapes are either behind or in front of the pegs. They start weaving from the ground and use thicker shoots first. When the rod ends, take the next one. The place where they are connected is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and additionally strengthened with wire or twine.
• So that the lower row of rods does not fall to the ground, and the upper row does not lag behind the wattle fence, they are securely tied to the vertical shoots with wire.
• Weave from the thick end of the branch to the thinner one. When one row ends, we start the next on the other side, following uniform distribution thin and thick ends of the shoots. In this case, the thickness of the weave will be the same throughout the flower bed.
• If the end of the rod coincides with the peg on which the shoot from the previous row ended, we shorten this rod or take a longer one.
• We lay out the bottom and sides of the flower bed plastic wrap. This will prevent it from rotting and spilling the soil.
• We make drainage to remove excess moisture, harmful to the roots, from pieces of crushed stone, brick and sand, fill in the soil and plant flowers.

Highly interesting option flower beds - a wicker basket, equipped with a canopy-support for climbing plants. For its manufacture, you will need scissors, cardboard, a shovel, rods up to 1.5-2 m long. Then we proceed directly to the process:

• We soak the rods and sort by length and thickness.
• We cut out a cardboard round template, the diameter of which matches the diameter of the bottom of the future flower bed.
• We cut off a small part of the circle to get the back wall-support.
• We shoot with a shovel upper layer soil (removal depth of about 30 cm) along the contour of the template and insert low thick shoots into the resulting trench at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.
• We insert 4 long branches along the perimeter of the cut edge of the template and 6 long shoots along the rest of its contour.
• We start weaving pegs at ground level. The first tape usually consists of two to four rods. We begin to weave the next circle, moving one peg, but we weave each row to the end. We cut the tips of the shoots with secateurs or weave them into the edges.
• We collect the ends of the long rods installed along the border of the beveled edge of the template, and weave their opposite ends diagonally until the roof of the wicker basket is at the required height. For strength, the tapes are fastened with wire or rope.
• We take the remaining six long rods. We cross two of them and weave them into the improvised roof of the basket, and then weave the remaining four shoots. Thus, a woven lattice is obtained.
• We fill the flower bed with soil and plant the plants.

To create another type of wicker flower bed in the winter, in addition to willow rods, you will need a barrel and sleight of hand:

• For uprights we take thick shoots, for weaving - thinner rods and clean them from the bark.
• We fill the barrel tightly with snow and install vertical “pillars” of rods into it. Even or odd number there will be - it doesn’t matter, since weaving is done with a “string” - two twigs that are intertwined with each other.
• We continue to weave in a circle until the basket reaches the desired height, after which we cut off the vertical racks.
• Then we make a handle: we twist several thin rods of great length with a rope and tie them to the sides of a wicker flower bed.
• We remove the basket from the barrel and use it for its intended purpose.

Wicker flower bed as an element of decor

Wicker flower bed will harmoniously look at any site, regardless of its area and the presence of other decorative elements. Since it is performed from natural materials, it goes well with the now fashionable wicker furniture or a large fence around the house, also made of vines.

With such fences around flower beds adjoining territory will look more well-groomed, as they do not allow grass and plants to grow. In addition, wicker fences are great for dividing the site into functional areas: for the garden, for the garden, for recreation. They are environmentally friendly, protect flower beds from damage and at the same time allow you to maintain a personal plot in the same style.

An interesting solution, because it is a luxury - to receive a basket of flowers as a gift. Such a luxurious gift can be received from yourself, having at your disposal a small summer cottage.

Making a flower bed in a basket is not at all difficult, it's even easier than making a wattle fence. The dimensions are much smaller and you don’t have to worry much about stability.

Moreover, improvised means are used to decorate the flower garden in the most literal sense - thicker sticks are stuck into the ground around the perimeter of the planned flower bed, a fence of the desired size and height is woven from long thin twigs and pieces of bark. All of these materials are suburban area can actually lie right under your feet. Even dry branches and bark can be used by soaking them in water for a couple of days.

But best of all, of course, willow twigs are suitable. Prepare from spring required amount and you will have excellent material for flower beds and more.

We make a flower bed in this order.

• carefully remove the bark from the rods;
• cut to length so that everything is the same;
• designate the site and hammer in the pegs in a circle;
• the distance between the pegs is arbitrary, but the denser they are installed, the more reliable the fence will be .;
• then we skip the rods between the pegs, as in the picture;
• after the fifth row, tap to the right and left of the peg with a wooden mallet, this is for compaction;
• fasten the ends of the rods.

The resulting recess is filled with a suitable earthen mixture, in which selected flowers are sown or planted - one- or perennials. You can choose plant varieties so that they bloom from spring to autumn, decorating the site.

The flower bed can be of any shape, such as square or rectangular. The principle of installation and weaving is the same as that of the round


It’s even easier to make such a flower bed, just stuff the pegs and start weaving rods on the front side.

The rods should be laid tightly, tapping with a wooden mallet so that cracks do not form after drying.


The difference with a round flower bed is that in this case we weave each wall separately, and then fasten it at the joints. In principle, such sections can be made in advance and then driven into the ground, but there are some nuances here, because they will have to be dried first.

Flowerbed-basket with support

If you plan to plant a basket flower bed with climbing plants, make a support for them. Visually, it will be like a basket with a handle. Get high wicker construction in human height, it will look very nice if you put it at the porch or gate at the entrance to the yard.

Making such a basket will not take much time, the main thing is to prepare the rods of the required length in advance. For our flower bed, you will need rods up to two meters. Then make a template from plywood or thick cardboard. This will be the base around which we will build a flower bed. Since the basket will not be completely round, in this case a back support wall is provided, make a cut on one side of the template.

Prepare the site, in the place where the flower bed will be located, it is necessary to remove the turf and prepare a small recess in a circle, in a word, a small trench. We will insert thick rods into it, the future wall of the basket. The distance between the bars can be chosen arbitrarily, but not more than fifteen centimeters.

Then we begin to weave a basket, the first vine will lie on the ground, braid the pegs with several rods, moving one peg with each level. So that the tips do not stick out, they can be cut or carefully woven into the edge of the row. Each "tape" must be braided to the end.

Where we will have a wall, we marked it with a trimmed template, the ends of the rods must be collected and diagonally twisted with opposite ends. You should get such a high “handle” that can be fixed with wire. Then we form a “lattice” from the long rods of the wall. This completes the work, then the most pleasant part, we fill up the soil and plant flowers. A combination of flowers and climbing plants will look very beautiful.

Flowerbed from an old basket

If you do not know how to weave and do not want to learn, although it is simple, you can make a flower bed from an old basket, although it is possible from a new one, if it's not a pity. Here, you don’t need to do anything at all, except to soak the basket with an antiseptic, otherwise it will very quickly become unusable in the ground.

There are two options, you can make a stationary flower bed, remove the bottom of the basket and deepen it into the ground, or use it as a portable flowerpot and put it, say, on the veranda. Or hang, which is often done. But in this case, consider the first option, the photo shows how from two old baskets made a stationary flower bed s, and one of them was laid on its side, also beautiful. In this case, summer unpretentious flowers were used - nails and pansies. But if you set up a flower bed for a long time, you can plant perennial seeds from spring.

Hanging planter from the basket

As mentioned above, you can make beautiful hanging planter from the cart, for this you can use ordinary baskets, but to make it beautiful, it is better to use special ones, for flowers, it is better different sizes. In this case, a variant of three baskets is shown. You can, of course, and more, if there is where to hang. In general, we need to purchase baskets and find a strong rope.

First, I will distribute the flowers, depending on what kind of composition we have planned. In the upper part, you can plant plants that will hang beautifully, because the usual ones simply will not be visible, but something brighter from below or vice versa, as in the photo, is also not bad.


Then we assemble the structure, you need to make sure that the distance between the baskets is the same. You can lay everything out on the floor as in the photo and measure carefully. Then we thread the rope and fix the baskets with knots.


Let's hang it up and see how it looks. You can correct the distance between the baskets on weight, by the way, it’s easier to do this if you don’t tie knots, but make small wooden sticks, which can be threaded into the rope, although in this case it is better to use not an ordinary rope, but thin braided rope. In my opinion, this is even better, the design is stronger and you don’t have to guess with knots, and if necessary, you can move the baskets to the desired distance. Knots will only need to be tied under the bottom of the lowest basket.

That's all, it remains only to plant flowers.

Flowerbeds in baskets can be made very beautiful, of course, rods, the material is not durable, but if everything is done correctly, it will stand idle for several years. Look at this selection of flower garden options, for sure you will also want to do something similar.

When creating flower beds quite often use a variety of decorative elements. It can be stones, figurines, lamps, windmills and much more. One of these elements can be a simple classic wattle, created from various materials. And if earlier it was made only as a fence of a territory or plot, now it has become a decoration and decoration. To understand how to make wattle for a flower bed with your own hands, you need to get acquainted with the materials, their processing methods and manufacturing technology.

It is suitable for decorating areas in a rustic, ethnic or natural style. But even if general style landscaping is different, then wicker fences of various heights are used as supports for ornamental shrubs, perennials and annuals.

Wattle can be horizontal, vertical and intermediate (inclined and others).

The advantages of this fence, which gives a special spiritual flavor to a flower garden, garden or personal plot, are environmental friendliness, affordability and manufacturing. Also, the advantages include mobility (the ability to disassemble, assemble, move), use different material in its manufacture, an interesting and original appearance.

The disadvantages of wattle can be called the fact that it cannot be used as a very strong fence, as well as a short service life.

A low wattle fence made of thin branches and twigs will suit any shape. shoots of flowers and ornamental crops, hanging through such a fence, give a special charm to the whole composition and emphasize the beauty of plants. The walls of this border can be vertical and look like a small fence. But they can be located at an angle, and general form such a flower garden will look like a basket.

A variety of wicker flower containers also look interesting and spectacular, especially if they are hanging baskets - planters that can be hung on a balcony, loggia, terrace or just in the garden next to the house or recreation area.

Almost all wicker fences and containers are made from cut shoots, but sometimes you can find wattle with oblique weaving from living willow branches. This type of fence is created as a decorative fence that can separate one part of the garden or cottage from another. You can even build a "live" gazebo from willow twigs. But it is worth remembering that such a fence or gazebo requires regular maintenance.

One more interesting idea The use of wicker wicker fencing is to create portable screens for a garden or cafe. The base and frame are made of boards and timber, and the inside is made like an ordinary horizontal wattle fence.

Choosing materials

The main requirement for shoots and branches that are suitable for creating wattle is flexibility and plasticity. Willow works best for this, but hazelnut, willow and birch can also be used. Shoots of raspberries, apple and dogwood trees and vines are still suitable for wattle.

All materials are harvested in the fall after the end of sap flow or in the spring before the start of the growing season. To fence the flower garden, shoots or rods with a thickness of 1 to 2 cm and branches with a thickness of 2 to 3 cm are cut. The optimal length of thin shoots is from one and a half to two meters. They are collected and tied into bundles, and the difference in the length of the rods in the bundles should not be more than 10-15 cm.

The length of the thicker branches that are used as a support should be 30-40 cm more than the height of the fence. Immediately after harvesting, the shoots and branches are cleaned of bark (within 3-4 hours). As a result of this treatment, the wood material takes on an orange-yellowish tint. But if this has not been done, then before starting work on the construction of the wattle fence, they are soaked in boiling water and the bark is removed. Although, it is worth noting that branches and shoots unpeeled from the bark give the fence a natural or natural look.

If the harvested rods and shoots are too dry, then a day before the start of production, they can be steamed or wrapped in a wet cloth.

To protect against decay, the harvested branches are treated with special preparations, and to give the desired shade - stain.

The length of thick branches that are used for support should be 30-50 cm more than the height of the fence. In addition to harvested shoots and branches, the following tools will be needed:

• secateurs;
• wooden mallet;
• sharp knife.

Do-it-yourself wattle for a flower bed can be made from straw, and rye wattle is best suited for this, since it has greater strength due to elongated internodes. And this straw is dyed beautiful shade, but it is quite easy to change it with the help of aniline paints. It is also quite easy to make wicker fences from reeds, which are harvested from August to October.

Manufacturing technology of horizontal wattle

Before you start creating a wicker fence, you need to count the number of supports. To do this, we determine the territory under the flower bed, from which we remove debris, weeds and stones. Then we outline the contour of the flower bed and dig the earth to the desired depth. We measure the perimeter and calculate the number of stakes on the basis that on one running meter should be 3 to 4 pieces.

To better preserve the wattle fence and drain excess water, you can dig a narrow trench 15 cm wide, about 30-40 cm deep along the edge of the flower bed and fill it with fine gravel or gravel. Here subsequently thick branches will be clogged - supports.

To increase the stability of this fence, you need to drive in 2 small pegs about 5 cm long near each support on both sides to make a lock that helps hold the wicker fence in place.

The supports are placed at a distance of 25 to 30 cm and driven into the ground to a depth of 20 to 30 cm using a wooden hammer or mallet. It is worth remembering that the more supports there are on one running meter, the denser and stronger the fence will be.

Now we begin to zigzag the thin and flexible shoots around the supporting stakes. Moreover, the next shoot should not repeat the weave of the previous one. If one rod begins to wrap around the supports from left to right, then the other from right to left. And so it must go on and on. Rods with a length of less than half a meter should not be used. You need to start weaving the fence from below, stepping back a few centimeters from the surface of the soil. To prevent the rods from sliding to the ground, they are attached with wire to the supports.

At the beginning of work, thick shoots are usually used, and then they gradually switch to thinner rods. For greater strength, sometimes intertwined shoots are fastened together with wire or very thin twigs. It is necessary to ensure that the thick and thin ends of the rods are located fairly evenly over the entire surface of the wicker fence. Its thickness should be about the same.

It is also worth noting that a beautifully made wattle fence is obtained if the rods for it are selected the same length. And also it is necessary to avoid that the end of the escape does not fall on the support and the next one does not start there. In this case, the ending shoot should be shortened a little, and the next one, accordingly, will not start on the support.

At the end of the work, you need to trim the height of the supports with a powerful and sharp pruner, but do not forget to leave the length of the ends of the branches at least 30-40 cm, if such an opportunity exists. This will allow you to use them for decorating a wicker fence.

Man always seeks to create beauty around him. Remember the Russian villages, where houses are buried in fragrant flowers, ...

Creating a "live" or "green" wattle fence

For the construction of such a fence, already rooted willow shoots will be required, which are planted in a trench filled with moisture-intensive and moisture-retaining soil with a sufficient amount of nutrients.

Immediately after harvesting from willow, cuttings of the same length and thickness are placed in containers with water and kept at a temperature of 18 to 20 degrees Celsius. Rooting occurs in 3-5 weeks, after which the shoots are planted in a prepared place and fastened in a suitable way. To speed up the appearance of roots, you can use special preparations, for example, "Kornevin".

But it is worth remembering that it is worth planting such "green" cuttings only after the end of frost (May-June). You also need to pay attention to the care of such, which consists in regular watering, loosening and removing weeds. Since willow is a moisture-loving crop, the soil should be constantly moistened, but excess moisture should be avoided.

A little about decorating

At classic version wattle fence decorations next to it were usually planted with sunflowers, the heads of which elegantly hung on it, and snow-white daisies. But the range of cultures that are in harmony with the wicker fence is much larger. These can be perennial and alpine aster, late flowering chrysanthemum, delphiniums, various varieties of leucanthemum, as well as gillyflowers, mimulus, dahlias, marigolds, nasturtiums and decorative (and not only) sunflowers.

And wattle can be an excellent support for climbing plants such as beans (edible and decorative), sweet peas (flowers look like colorful butterflies), morning glory, kobeya, decorative pumpkin and others. The leaves and flowers of these crops will look great against the background of intertwined branches and shoots.

To add color to the tops of the supports, you can hang a variety of earthenware (plain and glazed) and build a log and stump shop next to the wattle fence.

And you can learn how to make garden plot original flowerbed clock.

In search of something incredible for their site, many create more than one basket of stones for the garden with their own hands. Such products become the highlights of any territory. The size of the basket is as diverse as its shapes and sizes. The most common material for creating baskets is tracing stone. This article will show a master class on creating a masterpiece to decorate a small garden. But such flower beds can be made in several copies and placed throughout the garden.

Pebble basket

The most interesting and affordable material for creating flower beds is pebbles. Her various shape and color will give brightness and unusualness to the composition. The properties of pebbles include its incredible beauty and brilliance after watering or after rain. The pebbles become shiny, acquire a smooth texture and are simply pleasing to the eye. Of course, it is impossible to complete a flower bed-basket in one day, since it takes time for the material to solidify and better fix other parts, but this wait is worth it.

Flowers are used for planting unpretentious varieties. Such a basket cannot be carried by holding only the handle, it is quite heavy. For the safety of the entire product, lifting is carried out by the bottom and carefully transferred to a stable surface.

Tools for work:

• gray flat pebbles - about 222 pieces;
• cement glue;
• wire mesh size 26 * 26 cm;
• plywood blank 26*26*2 cm;
• jigsaw;
• paint and brush;
• hammer and 8 flat-headed studs;
• pencil;
• container with cement;
• tools for working with cement mass;
• adhesive tape and transparent film;
• nippers and scissors;
• 2 plastic pots.

The process of creating a basket with your own hands. Initially, in the above master class, the collection and arrangement of all necessary tools a stone's throw. A 2.6 cm wide rim is cut off from the plastic pot. After that, it is squeezed into an oval and applied to the plywood in order to create an outline on the plywood with a pencil. Using a jigsaw, this oval must be cut out.

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The rim, dressed on an oval blank, is fixed on nails located at an equal distance. The base is covered transparent film. The cement solution is diluted to a thick consistency and poured into the workpiece up to 1.2 cm high over the film.

The grid, cut to the size of the workpiece, lies on top and is slightly pressed down.

On the reverse side of the pebbles, a small amount of cement glue is applied and fixed to the bottom. Now the base needs to dry. To do this, it should be left in a cool dry place overnight. After that, the blank from plywood and the rim is removed, the film is torn off.

By applying glue to the back of the pebbles, the walls of the flower bed are laid out. This action is performed from row to row, increasing the volume of the basket with a slight tilt of the walls.

After laying out the first five rows, a break is made at intervals of 35 minutes in order to harden the solution and ensure the stability of the subsequent rows of the basket wall.

If it seems that the walls are weakly held, and the structure does not have time to dry, it is better to use an object in the form of a metal cylinder for support.

The next two rows using flat pebbles are the final ones, next row laid out with round pebbles. Laying out a row using round pebbles, with two opposite sides it is necessary to leave places equal to the size of flat pebbles. These gaps will serve as the beginning of the basket handle. Excess cement is cleaned. For one hour, while the materials for the rim are being prepared, the basket stands without action on it, the flower bed needs time to dry.

Two rims are cut out of a plastic pot. For strength, they must be connected with tape. The resulting workpiece should be placed in the places left under the flat pebbles for the handles. When the handles are in place, they must be simultaneously fixed on both sides with pebbles with large quantity cement mortar. The handle is laid out from under the bottom to the top, the last pebble should lie in the upper part in the center.

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A time interval of two hours will be sufficient time for the handle to dry from the cement. But before the expiration of this time, it is necessary to clean up the excess solution. When two hours have passed, you can remove the circle of plastic and cement that has accumulated on the handle from the inside.

All! You can put the basket-beds in the place allotted to it, fill it with earth, plant plants and enjoy the beauty and fragrance of flowers.

Clubs in the form of baskets for the backyard can be created not only from pebbles, but also from other available materials. This can be seen in the photo below.

AT modern world available great amount innovative materials that are used to design flower beds. Very beautiful and original version is a flower bed in the form of a wicker basket.

This composition does not require the use of expensive materials. Due to the simplicity of the design, you can build a flower bed with your own hands.

Photo example:

Wicker flower beds are characterized by the presence of several varieties. They can be terrestrial and mobile, making them easy to carry. There are also hanging baskets. With their help, the revitalization of the garden, as well as summer cottages, is carried out. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the flower bed is fixed at a certain height.

In the second case, the creation of a flower bed should be carried out taking into account certain subtleties:

If the grower strictly adheres to all of the above rules, then this will allow him to create a very beautiful flower bed.

How to weave a large flower bed: a step-by-step master class

There are several ways to weave flower beds. They can have a horizontal or vertical broach of the rods. Consider the process of building a stationary flower bed:

Creating such a flower bed is a very simple and low-cost procedure that any summer resident can handle with their own hands.