Concrete floor of the first floor of a private house. Do-it-yourself insulation of the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises. primarily, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private house can be done in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• The most popular and comfortable floor for the house has always been considered wooden, since wood, unlike concrete, is a warm material in itself.
• Concrete pavements are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with a wooden floor.
• Raised or floating floors were not so popular with homeowners in the past, but more and more people are turning to this option recently, as it is easy to set up and can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, so it is necessarily included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wooden floors can be made different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made of beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, narrow corridor or small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Floors on pillars

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coverage. The lag system, arranged only on supporting pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house for installation brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the column should be, the greater its width and thickness.

Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug pits, then it is filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out in good faith.

Red brick pillars are laid on a compacted pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm in cross section. The erected pillars are leveled, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.

On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded studs are embedded or anchors are installed, on which floor beams will subsequently be fixed.

It should be noted that if a building or room has small area, then the supporting pillars can only be arranged along the perimeter of the future premises, but in this case massive beams must be laid on them.

After the pillars are ready, they are laid on their upper part waterproofing material. It is better if it is three ÷ four layers of roofing material.

Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting studs will pass.

Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled with wooden lining boards. When the floor base is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with nails, and the bars themselves also need to be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs are too high, it is cut off with a grinder.

It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and additionally insulate the floors.

In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay the floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving between it and wooden coating a distance of no more than ten centimeters.

Draft floor

The draft floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a particular method will depend on the material of insulation.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as a heater, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are smeared with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. A heater is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams with a stapler and staples.

• Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a good example of subfloor installation

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this. focusing on which you can make a work plan.

• The soil in the underground must be well tamped, and a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, should be placed on it, and then tamped again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing material, is laid on a compacted pillow. If desired, under it, you can, for greater strength, lay a reinforcing mesh. Waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
• For waterproofing, lay bricks on the mortar or concrete blocks, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (the standard width of the insulation).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
• On bricks, and better - on concrete blocks wooden beams, align them in level, and fix with a corner.
• Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• On top of the heater, cash agi fix the vapor barrier film.
• Then the floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into its side part.
• The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When laying the floor on the concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you can not save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First on concrete pavement a preliminary marking of the location of the lag is done. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. The markup is done by beating the line with color.
• Further, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs with clamps are installed, located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs embedded in the concrete surface, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
• Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
• Nuts are screwed on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the installation of a subfloor, insulation and flooring of a clean floor.

Fastening the log directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

• Stripes are beaten off on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further, with the help of anchor fastening, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. At the same time, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, foamed polyethylene, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
• All over the wall strips cut off from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, on the covered polyethylene are laid insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

• From above, be sure to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

• Next is laid batten or thick plywood, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and proceed to its device after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It must be well tamped, pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam plastic chips to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be kneaded not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished frozen rough screed, you need to spread waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take a roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

• A heater is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or high-density extruded polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is selected at the request of the owner of the house and depending on climatic conditions the region where the house was built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured, into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there were no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to the construction beacon level.

• If desired, such a coating can be made additional insulation. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay linoleum laminate or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents the organization of the "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated in laying floors with a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why it has been used more and more in recent years.

The main thing in its laying is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of work, bulk floors will last a long time.

Loose mix leveling

• In order for the floors to keep their shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads are installed from the boards.
• On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other sheet materials. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mix, but must be moved very carefully over the surface. Evenness of laying of sheets during all work is controlled by means of level.
in those areas that are subject to the greatest load, for example, in the aisles.
• On the gypsum fiber the sheets have folds, with the help of which they are interconnected when laying them on a dry screed.
• Sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for floor gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer, so that they tightly adjoin each other and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The stacked top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c with glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• Right along the line doorways it is not recommended to join sheets - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with waterproofing material, such as sealant.
• If such floors are arranged in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor, before laying decorative coating treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of work performance, such technology under any circumstances is many times greater than any other.

The most common version of the foundation device for small private houses when not buried strip foundation(there is no basement), and the base of the floor is created directly on the existing soil. This is done where there is no threat of high standing. ground water, and the relief of the site is homogeneous, lying approximately at the same level of the horizon. If the soil is located under a large slope, soil moisture during the year is excessive, it makes sense to make the base of the floor of the first floor of the house at a distance from the ground, leaving a ventilated space between them. Features of the device of both floor options in private homes will be considered in this article.

Features of the foundation device

The device of the floor and foundation of the house on the ground

The advantage of floors that rest directly on the underlying soil layers is that they do not carry an additional load on the foundation of a private house. The floors of the first floor, which do not come into contact with the soil, provide for the device of a kind of floor slab, which is based on the foundation. Therefore, the second option requires taking these features into account when designing and calculating the required width of the base sole.

If the base of the floor of the first floor is reinforced concrete slab, be sure to take care of the waterproofing of the foundation itself and the place of its contact with the overlapping structure, especially if this option is chosen due to the high soil moisture. A slab that is not insulated with a hydrobarrier will pull moisture from the foundation, which will lead to its premature destruction and loss of strength, as well as the penetration of dampness into the house. In addition, care should be taken to ventilate the space between the ceiling and the soil, thereby reducing the level of humidity here.

The device of the floor of the first floor on the ground

This method of arranging floors in a private house where there is no basement is considered the simplest in terms of execution and inexpensive in terms of material costs. There are two main options that apply in this case:

• installation of a concrete floor base (screed);
• installation of wooden floors on logs.

Each of the presented options has its own characteristics, both in the sense of the complex necessary work as well as in terms of the end result. The choice often depends on what building material is the main one in the construction of the house itself. If the walls are made of logs or timber, a wooden floor will be more organic. In a stone or brick building better fit coupler. But this is not an absolute pattern, so there may be other combinations.

Concrete insulated screed

Scheme of the device of insulated concrete screed on the ground

The base of concrete, which is poured on the ground, has long been used in all kinds of utility and technical buildings, such as garages, sheds, warehouses. On the first floors of private houses without a basement, concrete screeds are used as the basis for finishing floor covering have been used relatively recently. Several factors influenced the popularization of this method, such as:

• the need to create smooth horizontal surfaces, which require some types of modern flooring;
• the emergence of affordable materials for effective thermal insulation;
• arrangement of systems of water heat-insulated floors for heating.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly create a concrete screed on the ground on the ground floor of private houses.

Preparation and rough filling

Soil compaction before laying the rough screed

Preparatory work begins with tamping the soil and adding a pillow for a rough screed. The soil can be compacted both manually, using a simple device in the form of a piece of log with an attached double-sided handle, and mechanical devices that exist for this purpose. In order for the ramming process to be most effective, the soil surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The initial layer of backfill is selected based on its total thickness. If the distance from the soil to the level of the intended floor is significant (more than 25-30 cm), the most available material. It can be construction debris or clay.

Further, the pillow is formed by a layer of large gravel, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The gravel creates a rigid base, roughly levels the surface and prevents a possible capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. On top of the gravel, a sandy (or small gravel) pillow is formed about 5-7 cm thick. The quality of the sand does not play a role here, so a clay-saturated quarry option is quite suitable. The sand cushion is leveled as much as possible, after which a durable plastic film is laid. The latter performs two functions:

• the first layer of waterproofing;
• an obstacle to the water contained in the concrete.

Pouring a rough reinforced screed

The film is laid continuously with a wall approach of up to 15 cm. Now you can pour a rough layer of concrete. For these purposes, a lean mortar is usually prepared, where the ratio of fillers (sand and gravel) and cement is approximately 9:1. Here, instead of crushed stone, if possible, you can use expanded clay. A pillow made of expanded clay concrete will provide additional insulation for the base of the floor. The rough screed is formed with a layer of about 10 cm. Despite the fact that the initial filling does not have to have an ideal surface, it is desirable to level it more carefully. This will facilitate further waterproofing and laying insulation.

Important! For the preparation of concrete, any sand is not suitable. There is a lot of clay in the quarry material, which will drastically reduce strength concrete slab and lead to cracking. For these purposes, river sand or washed sand is needed, including for the preparation of expanded clay concrete composition.

The draft layer is usually not reinforced, since the load on it is small. After pouring, a break in work is necessary to allow the concrete to gain strength. Although the material completely crystallizes within 26-28 days, it is sufficient to wait a week. During this time, concrete with sufficient moisture gains about 70% strength. During this period, it is necessary to monitor the proper moistening of the concrete surface, especially if the work is carried out during the hot season. To do this, abundantly moisten the ripening concrete 1-2 times a day.

How to make waterproofing and insulate the floor?

Floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

For the main waterproofing layer, it is better to use not a polyethylene sheet, but a full-fledged, reliable material. Here it will be enough to process the rough concrete base with bitumen, followed by laying the rolled material. Suitable roofing material or hydrostekloizol. The rolls are rolled out with an overlap of adjacent strips by 10-15 cm. Hot gluing in this case you can not use, but process the joints bituminous material necessarily. Roll material it is laid with an approach to the wall surface above the level of the intended finishing screed.

You can insulate the floor with dense foam (it is cheaper), or extruded polystyrene foam. The second one is preferable for these purposes, as it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic, and its plates usually have tongue/groove-type docking elements at the edges, which greatly simplifies its installation. The seams between the sheets of insulation can be filled with polyurethane foam or treated with special glue. Foam also needs to go through the gaps around the perimeter of the room between the wall and polystyrene foam.

Finishing fill

Laying reinforcing mesh and beacons before pouring the finishing screed

For these purposes, a solution is prepared with a normal ratio of 4:2:1, or 3:3:1, where, respectively, gravel, sand, cement. Before finishing pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay a mesh for reinforcement and install beacons, thanks to which it will be possible to achieve a strictly horizontal surface.

Reinforcing mesh can be used metal with a cell of 100 mm, or rigid plastic. The reinforcing elements are overlapped (1-2 cells), not reaching the wall about 1.5 cm. Here, a damper tape is glued along the perimeter, which is designed to compensate for temperature changes in the linear dimensions of the screed. The mesh should not lie on the insulation, but should be located approximately in the center of the concrete layer. To do this, use special stands or improvised means (bottle caps, brick fragments, etc.).

After the installation of the final base of the floor and its careful leveling (grinding or self-leveling solutions), it remains to wait for its full maturation and proceed with laying the final floor covering.

Wooden floor installation

Despite the wide variety of modern floor coverings, wooden floors have a lot of adherents among consumers. This can be understood given that wood is the most eco-friendly material, which is able to create a favorable microclimate in a residential area. Moreover, the modern board that is used for flooring allows you to make an ideal surface without cracks, which appearance in no way inferior to parquet.

The device of wooden floors on logs without insulation

The classic way of laying a floor board involves the presence of a log, wooden beams, which are located in parallel with a certain step, which depends on the thickness of the floor wooden layer. On the ground floor of a private house, when the floors are laid on the underlying soil, preparatory and intermediate work until the creation of a rough foundation and its waterproofing is no different from that described above. That is, for the device of a high-quality wooden floor, a reliable leveled concrete base is also required.

After installation load-bearing bars floor should be insulated. The use of expanded polystyrenes is undesirable here, since these materials do not allow steam to pass through, which can cause water condensate to form, which will adversely affect the wood. In addition, foam, for example, can be chosen by rodents, which will entail some discomfort.

Waterproofing and insulation of a wooden floor with mineral wool

For a wooden floor on the logs of the first floor of a private house, it is better to use mineral wool Or rather, one of its varieties. However, when laying mineral wool, you should take care of the moisture insulation of the insulation. If the hydrobarrier has already been created from below (on top of the rough screed), then it remains only to arrange the top layer of the hydrobarrier film.

Important! To protect mineral wool from moisture, polyethylene film is not used. You need a special film web that can pass steam. If polyethylene is used, condensation will form under it with all the ensuing consequences.

The waterproof film is laid on the logs and the insulation laid between them before installing the floor board. Adjacent strips should overlap each other by at least 10 cm. So that the canvases do not move, they are fixed with a stapler to the supporting bars.

The floor is an integral part of any room, whether private house(apartment) or public building.

Undoubtedly, one of the main parts that determine the entire interior of the room as a whole and provide comfortable accommodation and durability of the building.

This part of the premises is quite expensive (up to 30% of the total costs) and laborious in terms of arrangement, it is top layer ceiling that divides the building into zones.

For a one-story private house, such a division is as follows: basement, residential part, attic.

The base is the most wearing part, since the loads on it are the most constant.

Therefore, it lends itself to repair most often, although high-quality laying of the base and the use of high-quality materials make it possible to forget about repairs for a long time.

The material for the base should be selected taking into account the purpose of operation, the microclimate in the room, and its choice should be taken seriously: for example, you can’t lay parquet in a toilet or bathroom, and it’s better not to use laminate flooring in the kitchen or in the hallway.

Types of bases for a private house

In a private house, they can be of two types:

1. Wooden. The base consists of logs (beams) laid with a waterproofing litter (if we are talking about a base in a basement or a living room in a house without a basement) or without it (if we are talking about a field between living rooms, living space and basement or attic). Such bases are warm and do not require significant labor costs for installation.
2. Concrete. The basis for concrete bases is a prepared base in the form of a sand cushion. Compared to a wooden base, concrete floors involve wet work in several stages, which makes their production and installation voluminous and rather long.

Wooden floors can be mounted in the form of:

• a simple single plank base;
• double plank base (warmer).

Features of installing a plank wooden floor

A single plank base is mounted in compliance with the following recommendations:

1. The boards are laid on logs laid on the beams or on the support beams themselves (if the beams are embedded in the walls, then laying the logs on them is a mandatory requirement).
2. If the support pillars serve as the basis for laying, then the beams are initially laid in compliance with the established requirements: with a distance between supports of 80 cm, the beams must be laid 1x1 m, with a distance of 1 meter or more - 1.2x1.2 m.
3. If there are no complaints about the beam system, then you can lay the floor on the beams themselves. If, nevertheless, the system of beams does not completely suit you, then it is better to additionally lay a grid of logs, leveling and securing with nails.
4. The logs used for laying the base can have a section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm.

Mounting a plank base is quite simple by attaching the boards you use with long self-tapping screws or nails to the logs or support bars.

If the laid plank base is planned to be finished, then we scrape it and varnish it (preferably in two layers).

If the plank base is used as a draft, then we lay the coating of your choice on it (it is recommended to use linoleum).

Laying a single plank base will not bring heat into your home, but will only reduce your costs.

Therefore, it is better to lay a double plank floor, which includes a rough base of unedged board and a finished floor of tongue and groove board.

For laying the rough base, we use boards pre-treated with an antiseptic (board thickness up to 45 mm), which are tightly laid on cranial bars stuffed on beams.

Next, we cover the rough base with a heat-insulating layer of at least 30 mm (use sawdust and clay or expanded clay) and lay the finishing base (use only boards made of conifers) by nailing.

If you plan to lay an additional coating on a finished base, then it must be scraped off, after deepening the nail heads with a metal finisher and a hammer.

After that, you can lay any coating.

In order to ensure ventilation, it is necessary to make holes in the corners of the room (no more than 60 mm in diameter).

We suggest you watch a useful video on how the floors are arranged in private homes.

As stated earlier, wooden base in a basement or a residential area without a basement, it is mounted on logs laid on a waterproofing pad.

The material for such a pillow can be sandstone, gravel or simple soil.

In this case, the logs are not laid on the pillow itself, but on brick columns (at least 2 bricks high), which are located over the entire floor area so that the step between the bars laid on them is 40-70 cm.

If the wooden base is laid on the floors, for example, between the basement or attic and the living quarters, then no waterproofing is needed in this case.

Logs are fixed through the way with the help of anchors or self-tapping screws.

When laying a wooden floor, it should be borne in mind that the wood used must first be impregnated to prevent it from being affected by various rodents, microorganisms and insects.

Before laying the concrete base, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the previously compacted sand cushion, and then a heat-insulating layer.

? You can find out the answer by reading the article on our website.

Many people ask themselves the question: how to cut a laminate? it is shown what and how it can be cut without much effort. Try!

From this you will learn how to install cork backing under the laminate Good luck with your repair!

Only with such preliminary preparation can you start laying the concrete base.

The layer of laid concrete must be at least 5 cm and must correspond in level to the level of the foundation of the house at its highest point.

A concrete slab can still serve as the basis for pouring a concrete screed.

If the slab is flat, then you can safely save on waterproofing - you don’t need to lay it, and, having laid only thermal insulation, cover it with a fine cement-sand screed.

This will be enough.

Finished flooring should be laid on the screed only after it has dried and bonded.

By the way, if the flooring is a laminate, then it is necessary to first lay the concrete with a special bedding, and if it is parquet, then plywood must be laid under it.

If you want to lay tiles, then you don’t need anything other than tile adhesive.

In contact with

Floors are one of the main structural elements of a building. Much depends on their competent installation, including the hygiene and reliability of the house, the comfort of living in it and the durability of the flooring. The device of the floor in a private house is a rather laborious procedure, making up a fifth of the total labor costs for the construction of the building as a whole. And in material terms installation of floors takes almost a third of the cost of building a house. This alignment applies not only to the capital residential building, but also to the cottage.

The floor is the most wearable structure, as it is constantly exposed to mechanical and abrasive loads, so its installation must be approached responsibly. It should not be forgotten that a poorly executed floor design will lead to rapid wear and tear and further repair or replacement of even the most expensive floor covering.

Ground floor floors

The floor is a multi-layer construction, and not just a coating, as some imagine it to be. It is laid on the ceiling or directly on the ground, which depends on the purpose of the room and proximity to groundwater. The floor of the first floor differs in its design in that in its "pie" in without fail thermal and waterproofing are included, and a layer is laid between the floors soundproofing material. The floors in the garage or basement also have their own characteristics. It is important that the foundation withstand the calculated loads and prevent the penetration of moisture from the soil.

Components of a floor arranged in a private household or country house, conditionally subdivided:

• On finishing floors - a floor covering.
• Black, or draft floors - a solid, even base of one or more layers, designed for laying a clean floor.

The floor also includes:

• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• leveling screed;
• sound or noise isolation.

The floor structure of the first floor can be:

• Svyaznoy - screed with concrete base constitutes a whole.
• On the separating layer - the screed and the surface of the base are not interconnected.
• Floating - all layers are separated not only from the base, but also from the walls.

Floors must meet certain requirements:

• strength;
• thermal insulation;
• noiselessness;
• anti-skid;
• hygiene;
• fire safety.

There are several options with which you can make a high-quality and beautiful floor in the house. This may be a single plank structure, most suitable for installation in the country. In a residential building, a double wooden or concrete floor with good insulation is more often arranged.

Single board construction

The most simple and affordable way arranging a plank floor is widely used in the country, which is not expected to be visited during the cold season. Also, a single wooden floor of a residential building is appropriate in the warm regions of the country.

Boards are laid in two ways:

• on logs located on top of beams embedded in walls;
• on beams mounted on supporting pillars.

The step of the lag or beams directly depends on the thickness of the boards. The thinner the board, the shorter the distance. Logs and support beams are leveled, correcting their horizontal position with wooden wedges. After that, boards are nailed to the supporting elements with nails.

Double plank construction

Warming and arrangement of the finished floor

The installation of a floor in a country house or in a private house in this case is more labor-intensive and time-consuming, but the design itself provides for a significant reduction in heat loss. Its feature is the device of the black floor. Experts recommend using inexpensive conifers for this. tree species, and to create a wooden finish coating use grooved boards.

Between two levels of floors, a heat-insulating layer of foam, slag, dry sand, expanded clay concrete or expanded polystyrene is laid. In the country, it is more expedient to use a mixture of clay, straw and sawdust. An indispensable condition in wooden housing construction is the arrangement of a small gap above the thermal insulation and a clean floor for an air gap.

Concrete floor

Concrete floor installation ground floor at home comes down to several stages:

1. Marking with a laser.
2. Backfilling, leveling and tamping of crushed stone or expanded clay layer. As well as the device and leveling of the sand layer with periodic watering and rolling.
3. Waterproofing flooring made of polyethylene film with entry to the walls above the level of the future concrete floor.
4. Installation of guides along the beacons in accordance with the previously made markings.
5. fill concrete mortar to the required level and leveling it with a rule.

After the concrete mortar has set, the guides are removed, and the voids are filled with a mixture of concrete, after which they are overwritten. Then it remains only to cover the surface with polyethylene and moisten it with water from time to time. The period of complete hardening of the concrete solution is 20–30 days, depending on the temperature and humidity level of the surrounding air.

Subfloor device

Flooring in wooden houses

The main purpose of the subfloor is to distribute loads and level the base for flooring. The classic option for a private house is considered to be laying a log on the base base through a certain distance between them. When working on large areas for better rigidity, a crate consisting of double frames is mounted. In this case, transverse crossbars are laid between the lags.

In the lower part of the lag on both sides, bars of 50 × 50 mm are substituted and fixed, on which a black floor is mounted from chipboard, OSB, unedged boards, slabs or plywood, followed by fixing them on a wooden bar with self-tapping screws. This design is good because it allows you to lay a heater and a waterproofing layer between the lags.

The device of the subfloor in the house begins with the equipment of the ventilation space under it. To do this, in opposite corners of the foundation, holes of no more than 10 × 10 cm are provided in advance, which are then covered with gratings. Their number and location depends on the area of ​​the house.

The wood of all components of the subfloor is also treated with antiseptic solutions. Such events allow you to extend the life of the subfloor and lag. The ends of the logs are tarred without affecting the ends, or they are wrapped with roofing material. To maximally extinguish various knocks and ringing, noise-absorbing pads are used.

Concrete or metal constructions embedded in walls or mounted on poles.

Ground floor

The cheapest option is to install the floors of the first floor on the ground. But they are not recommended to be done in a house that winter time not used. After all, without internal heating, the soil during this period can freeze, and subsequently sag. It is also unacceptable to make such constructions if the level groundwater rises too high in an unfavorable season.

There are two options for installing floors directly on the ground, which can be used both in the country house and in a private house:

• Monolithic, suitable for warm climatic zones, as well as for basements or outbuildings.
• With an underground that meets the requirements provided for in private housing construction.

Monolithic floor

Proper concrete flooring

The simplest of all known device technologies floor plate in a private house includes several stages:

• layer removal parent soil minimum thickness 300 mm;
• arrangement of a sand cushion with a layer-by-layer rammer;
• laying waterproofing in the form of a small layer of greasy clay or two layers of rolled roofing material with bituminous impregnation;
• backfilling of crushed stone impregnated with bitumen;
• arrangement of an intermediate layer of concrete and cement screed;
• mounting floor tiles, linoleum or boardwalk, laid on logs installed on a layer of roofing material.

If necessary, protection from surface atmospheric water is also carried out by installing a drainage system.

According to the technology, the bottom layer of the floor inside the perimeter of the building, in order to be able to construct the first floor, should be above the mark of the external layout of the soil at a distance of at least 10-15 cm. As a heater, it is allowed to use 8-12 cm high-density polystyrene foam boards, fastened together with adhesive tape.

Underground wooden flooring

According to the intended area, the ground level is lowered to the required depth, a sand cushion is made, and crushed stone is poured on top along with gravel, ramming them into the base. Then a layer of oily clay is laid as a waterproofing and the entire area is covered slaked lime, and then - slag or rubble.

At the next stage of work for the log, support posts made of burnt bricks are installed in increments of up to 1 meter in two rows or more. 1-2 layers of roofing material, antiseptic-impregnated trimmings of boards and logs are placed on the pillars, along which tongue-and-groove boards are laid.

In the case of a double wooden insulated floor, a rough flooring is also mounted, on which hydro, heat and vapor barriers are successively laid. Only after that the floorboards are mounted.

Conclusion

There are many options for installing an insulated floor for the first floor, but the basic principles remain unchanged. The device of the floor in a private house can be floating or with adjustable lags, superior comfort and integral with the base. Each house is unique in its own way, so the floor in it is made according to individual calculations and drawings, depending on the soil conditions, types of materials, building sizes and other important factors.

Ruslan Vasiliev

“Cheap, but laborious” - this is how briefly you can characterize the floors, equipped on the ground. They are created directly on the ground, on the first floors of private houses, and represent a "multi-layered pie" in the context. But due to the presence of a large number of hidden layers, it is recommended to control the process of laying the floor on the ground at all stages. Otherwise, you may end up with a pig in a poke. Such floors are often used when developing where exactly the garage becomes the room in which the floor is equipped on the ground

On the ground, you can make two types of floor: concrete or wood. We will talk about the construction of the most common concrete floors.

• All work on the device of the floor must begin after the walls have been erected and the roof has been built.
• The top of the future floor should be flush with the doorway (including the finish coating). Therefore, during the marking, the level is set to "zero" with the bottom of the doorway and is applied around the entire perimeter of the room.
• In order to correctly calculate the thickness of the floor structure and correctly set the bottom mark, you need to decide in advance how many layers will be in your "pie" and how thick they will be.

Installation technology

It starts with clearing and compacting the soil. The soil layer is removed by builders until the total height from "zero" to the ground becomes equal to the thickness of the multi-layer "pie" structure. This is followed by careful tamping of the surface. As a result of these works, an even and sufficiently dense base should be obtained, on which you can walk without leaving indentations from your feet.

• The base base and all layers of the "pie" of the concrete floor must be aligned strictly to the level.

Foundation preparation

Backfilling of gravel, sand and crushed stone is carried out to stop the capillary rise of water. The thickness of the gravel layer is, as a rule, 5-10 cm. After filling, the gravel is poured with water and carefully compacted. The gravel layer should be followed by a layer of sand about 10 cm thick, which is also wetted and compacted. And on top of the sand, a 7-10-cm layer of large crushed stone (fraction 40-50 mm) is laid, compacted, sprinkled with a thin layer of sand, leveled and compacted.

• If there is gravel with sharply protruding edges on the surface, it must be removed or laid so that there are no sharp corners on the entire plane.

Rough coupler

The rough screed device is not a constructive, but a technological layer, on top of which a waterproofing layer will subsequently be installed. The rough screed is mounted from concrete of class B7.5 - B10 using crushed stone of fraction 5-20 on a plastic film in order to prevent concrete "milk" from going into layers of backfill or into the ground. The thickness of this layer is usually 5-7 cm. It is not necessary to reinforce it.

• Sheets of film are overlapped and well glued with adhesive tape. The material must be brought to the walls to a height of 15-20 cm.

Floor waterproofing

A waterproofing device is recommended if the groundwater level is higher than 2 meters from the bottom of the floor. The main task of waterproofing is to protect the insulation and finishing screed from moisture. Roofing materials, polymer-bitumen membranes, PVC membranes and similar materials are used as waterproofing.

• When deciding on the need for waterproofing, you need to focus on the most high level groundwater, which may be in a particular area, that is, look at how high the water rises in the spring, during a flood.

Thermal insulation is just as important

The thermal insulation device is made only for heated rooms. If you want to save on space heating (and heat loss through the floor is about 10-20% of all losses), you should include a layer of insulation in your "pie". To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the floor, you can use foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam.

• Before insulation, experts advise to perform a thermal calculation of the floor on the ground, which will determine the degree of need for floor insulation and optimum material for this.

Finishing screed

The device of the finishing screed is almost the final stage of work with the obligatory reinforcing mesh. The thickness of the finishing screed is 7-10 cm. Unlike the rough screed, it is necessarily reinforced with a mesh. If it is planned that something heavy (heavier than 200 kg / m2) will be placed on the floor, it is recommended to reinforce the finishing screed with a mesh with a wire diameter of 4 mm. If the load is up to 200 kg / m2, then the diameter can be 3 mm. In order for the grid to be in the middle of the solution layer, it should be installed on supports 2-3 cm high.

The solution is poured over the beacons, which are slats laid from each other at a distance of two meters. The mixture is then leveled and compacted using a vibrating screed or a rule supported by slats. After the concrete has hardened, it is recommended to treat the surface with a self-levelling mixture.

• The concrete floor is poured in one, maximum two passes. This is necessary to create a monolithic and durable structure.
• After pouring concrete and subsequent leveling of the surface, the floor is covered with a film and allowed to stand for 3-4 weeks to harden. During this time, the surface is constantly moistened with water so that it does not crack.

Checking work

• The fourth stage is tapping. Have to take wooden block and tap the entire surface of the screed with its end face. The sound from blows should be the same over the entire area of ​​​​the screed, “solid”, “ringing”. If in some places the sound is “deaf”, “hollow”, then there are delaminations of the screed, which is unacceptable.

Opinion of specialist Yulia Koroleva, Leading Marketing Manager at Roofing Isolation:

• The device of floors on the ground is appropriate in cases where the design of the building does not imply the presence of a basement.
• A concrete floor on the ground can be constructed with strip and column foundations.
• If there is a high level of groundwater in the area, it is recommended to arrange a monolithic floor on the ground along the logs.

When installing floors on the ground, it is very important to choose the right insulation and take care of high-quality hydro and vapor barrier. The main requirements when choosing a heater are high strength to mechanical stress, shear and tensile strength, as well as resistance to moisture. Therefore, extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m³ or rigid mineral wool insulation with a density of 135-180 kg / m³ are suitable for floors on the ground (this material can absorb moisture, therefore, its contact with the ground or screed must be minimized by insulating with a special film) . Sometimes, in order to save money, ordinary PSB-S-35 or PSB-S-50 foam plastic is used as a heater (in conditions of increased floor load).

As a waterproofing, you can use built-up bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials based on polyester. Such a base can withstand heavy loads and is subject to slight stretching. Thus, the waterproofing layer will not be damaged by slight fluctuations in the ground.