How to make grounding in an old apartment through ouzo. How to make grounding in an apartment with your own hands Do you need to do grounding in an apartment

To begin with, let's remember what the very concept of grounding means. By its very name, grounding, it is clear that this is the connection of something to the ground. The concept of land is real here. Earth is the soil, the soil located next to grounded electrical networks and / or equipment.

Grounding is carried out by the so-called grounding device. The grounding device consists of a ground electrode and grounding conductors.

The earthing switch has direct contact with the ground. For installation, earthing switches can be vertical and horizontal. The grounding conductor, connects the grounding conductors and the grounding device. Also, the grounding conductor connects the grounding device and the main grounding bus (GZSH) of the building or house. GZSH is mounted in a water device or separately in a special cabinet.

According to the PUE, not only electrical installations and electrical networks are subject to grounding. but also metal pipelines, and their metal components, shut-off valves, cast iron solenoid valves, etc.

I would like to note that for complete electrical safety and protection of people and equipment, grounding should be used in conjunction with lightning protection and overvoltage protection.

Also note that in this article we are interested in protective earth on the side of low voltage subscribers (LV). Low voltage is considered to be voltage up to 400 volts, namely 380 V, 220 V and 110 V (although we are not interested in 110 V).

Consider protective grounding in multi-apartment residential buildings and in private homes.

Protective grounding in apartment buildings

In residential apartment building you cannot choose a grounding system. It was designed and installed during the construction or renovation of a house. The main grounding systems that we have in our homes are TN-C-S and TN-S systems. You can read in detail about all grounding systems in the article:

The grounding conductor must not be laid separately from the cable.

The color of the ground wire is usually yellow-green. On the diagrams and, from the side of the subscriber, it is designated as a PE conductor. For low-voltage appliances in an apartment, protective grounding is carried out through the third contact in three-pin sockets and plugs.

How to connect protective earth in a house with TN-C-S and TN-C systems

If your floor panel does not have a separate grounding bus, then the protective conductor is connected to the metal body of the electrical panel, separately from the neutral conductor bus. Let me explain why this is so.

In TN-C-S system

According to modern standards, the metal housing of the floor panel is connected to the neutral protective conductor (PE). And even if before entering the building, the zero protective and zero working conductors were one whole (PEN conductor), then in the water device they were divided (into N and PE conductors) and all floor boards were connected to the protective conductor (PE).

In TN-C system

In old buildings with TN-C system, protective and neutral conductors are combined. Therefore, in floor panels, their tires formally "sit" on the shield body, albeit from different sides.

Protective grounding of a private house

With the protective grounding of a private house, everything is a little more complicated.

The private sector is powered by transformer substations over overhead power lines (overhead lines or overhead lines).

VLI is an overhead power line made with self-supporting self-supporting insulated wires.

In the house, food is "taken" from the overhead line pole. There is no separate grounding wire in the overhead lines of our private sector. The neutral working conductor (N) is combined with the neutral protective conductor (PE). The PEN conductor is shared in the water device at home. In this case, the PE conductor is connected to the house. By the way, on the branch post, you must definitely do re-grounding neutral wire.

But this grounding is functional and cannot serve full protection equipment and people. In a private house, you need to make a separate grounding device.

Grounding device at home

The grounding device of a house consists of a ground loop and grounding conductors connecting the electrodes of the ground loop and a ground loop with the GZSH of the house.

The grounding contour of a house on loose clays, loam and peat soil can be of three types:

• Ground loop in the form of a triangle;
• Straight line contour;
• Deep pin earthing switch.

For rocky and sandy soils, an electrolytic ground electrode is made.

Ground loop in the form of a triangle

The ground loop triangle is made of corners 40 × 40 mm, 2-3 meters long with a side length of the triangle from 1.2 meters. The corners are connected to each other with a steel strip. The steel strip not only connects the corners, but also extends to the foundation of the house. The strip is fixed on the house, and the ground loop is connected to the GZSh with a copper bus or a wire with a cross-section of 6 mm 2.

If there are several input devices in the house, then the steel tape from the ground loop should encircle the whole house or part of it around the perimeter.

Straight line outline

The ground loop triangle can be replaced with a line.

Deep pin earthing switch

The homemade ground loop described above can be replaced with a factory-made deep ground electrode system. It is driven into the ground alone to a depth of 6 to 30 meters.

Are you familiar with such a situation that you need to make grounding in an apartment, but there is no corresponding ground terminal on the floor panel? Usually, the absence of a ground loop is observed in panel houses old buildings - Khrushchevs. Many electricians solve this problem in their own way: who connects the RCD, who makes an individual circuit, and who generally connects the ground wire to the battery or water supply system. Next, we will tell you how to properly make grounding in an apartment with your own hands, if it is not there and what kind of protection it is strictly forbidden to mount!

Correct decisions

Method number 1 - Connecting an RCD

If there is no grounding in the apartment (not provided by the developer), and you still want to protect yourself from electric shock, then it is best for a while (pictured below). This device, of course, will not solve the whole problem, but nevertheless, in case of current leaks, it will instantly turn off the power of the serviced device - washing machine, a water heater or a group of outlets.

In addition, we recommend you to use a new one yourself - with a three-core wire. In the future, when the time comes to make grounding at your entrance, you will already be prepared, and all that remains is to conduct and connect the PE wire to the corresponding bus of the floor panel.

Method number 2 - Installation of your own circuit

Recently frequent cases when tenants panel houses decide to independently make grounding in Khrushchev, for which they organize an individual grounding loop. This idea consists in the fact that a single-core PE wire is pulled from the apartment to the basement along the risers. Near the house, at least three metal corners or electrodes are driven in, connected by a metal plate. A wire drawn from the floor is connected to the finished protective triangle (provided in the diagram below), the other end of which is fixed to the dashboard body. All that remains is to connect the grounding of the apartment with the shield and, as you understand, the leakage protection is ready!

We draw your attention to the fact that you can do such grounding with your own hands only after agreeing on this event with management company... Spontaneous adoption of this decision can lead to many problems, because You, no matter how, interfere with the approved project, and if some kind of accident occurs, it is possible that you will be the last one.

I would also like to add that if you still decide to make your own ground loop in the apartment, then the PE wire must be copper, with a cross section of at least 4 mm sq. This method of protection is suitable not only for the residents of the first floor, but also for everyone else - the 4th or even the 5th.

Video review of the protective system:

Wiring grounding technology

Dangerous defense option

Some would-be electricians decide to make grounding in the apartment by simply connecting the third wire to the water supply or heating system passing through the room. In no case do not use this version of the ground loop, because in this case, the picture is as follows:

• there is a breakdown of the current to the body of the electrical appliance (boiler or washing machine In bathroom);
• dangerous current flows to batteries and risers hot / cold water not only your apartment, but also all neighbors, tk. the system is unified.
• anyone who is in this moment decides to drink tap water or just touch the metal pipes.

By the way, the rules of the PUE stipulate this point and is also strictly prohibited, according to the PUE 1.7.110.

In addition to this method of grounding an apartment, the following are considered unsafe:

1. Connection in a socket with a ground conductor (so called). If it suddenly happens in the network, dangerous voltage will transfer to the case of all electrical appliances connected to the ground of the apartment - a computer, a water heater, a refrigerator, etc.
2. Consistent grounding of electrical appliances (through each other). If you decide to make such a ground loop, be aware that in the event of an accident, electromagnetic incompatibility may occur. As a result, electrical installations will interfere and there is a high probability that the ground loop will not prevent electric shock.
3. Connection of several wires to one PE bus terminal. It is allowed to connect one conductor to each contact pad. It is strictly forbidden to ignore this rule.

Purchasing a high-quality and reliable assistant for washing is only half the battle: for the safe use of new household appliances, it is necessary to properly ground the washing machine. For this, many call the master from the nearest service center, we suggest doing everything yourself. It is necessary to adhere to a certain technique, which will tell you step by step how to ground the washing machine, even if there is no grounding in the apartment.

Many users do not even think about such a problem as grounding and calmly operate the equipment for many years, not suspecting that they are exposing their loved ones to the danger of electric shock. Only after receiving a tangible blow, touching simultaneously the body of the machine and the mixer in the kitchen or in the bathroom, they begin to understand that grounding saves everyone living in the apartment from such a danger.

The main reasons for the urgent establishment of grounding are as follows:

1. Huge risk of getting electrical injury- at first you may just feel a slight tingling sensation, but this is already considered a very alarming signal.
2. There is an opinion, which is confirmed by professional electricians with extensive experience, that in the absence of grounding, all built-in electronics can break down before the end of the warranty. Delicate parts do not tolerate the build-up of static charge: you will have a rather expensive repair, and sometimes you will have to buy a new washing machine.

Do not wait for something to burn out or someone close to you will receive an electric shock - everything must be done on time.

If the light bulbs often start to burn out in the apartment, after you purchased the washing unit - this is the first call, you need to urgently do grounding.

Before doing grounding with your own hands, study carefully household appliances the integrity of the insulation protection of the connection wire, whether there are any frayed wires inside. Damaged insulation can often be the cause of electric shock, so grounding will not solve all problems.

If you live in a house with stationary electric stoves, then there is already grounding - the third wire is responsible for this. So you're in luck and you don't have to do anything.

Grandfather's way

When all the houses were only metal pipes plumbing and heating, our grandfathers came up with a pretty original way: ground everything electrical devices through the battery connections. This method was very effective and very popular in the middle of the last century.

True, with such a connection, there are a number of disadvantages:

• very questionable legality, because there are contradictions with the elementary rules for working with electrical wiring prescribed by GOST;
• there are problems with pipes and batteries - from prolonged exposure to static electricity are formed leaks;
• happy low reliability and there is a risk of electric shock.

Some tenants are not afraid of the above factors, it is important for them that it is convenient for them, so they take a simple single-core copper wire, strip off the vinyl protection from both sides and make an illegal connection.

In this case, one end is connected to the body of the washing machine, and the other is fixed to the radiator. central heating or on the supply pipe using an ordinary yokes... So many people sign with their own hands a verdict about the imminent flooding of neighbors from below due to a breakthrough. heating system in the near future.

Through the electrical panel

It is better to ground washing equipment through a stationary electrical panel - it is effective and civilized. To do this, you need to install a separate socket a special shape for the machine, and the three-core wire will go to the shield, where it will be connected to ground.

To complete the work, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• probe with indicator;
• pliers with insulators on the handles;
• a special tool for stripping the ends of wires or a sharp knife;
• duct tape and a supply of enthusiasm.

All conductors need to be connected only to the place corresponding to them - two buses and a special switch that works in automatic mode.

Safety precautions electrical works written based on real cases, sometimes fatal, so you should not neglect it.

Grounding is not considered challenging task, but if you are unfamiliar with the basics of electrical appliances and similar networks, then it is better to seek the help of a professional electrician. Financial expenses will be small, but the guarantee of safe use of household appliances is 100%.

At independent work need to know:

1. On any standard electrical panel there are two buses - zero (N) and ground (PE), only from them do the wiring.
2. Having made the necessary wiring, you need to connect the wire in this way: connect the blue to the N bus, red through the RCD with the meter phase, and yellow-green to the PE bus.

Remember that this method of grounding is made legally and is extremely reliable.

We do grounding in a private house

If you have your own home, where there is no separate grounding, then the question of how to ground a new washing machine is very simple. Your home is a separate fortress, where each owner can do whatever he wants, but not in violation of the existing GOST standards. Before starting work, be sure to consult with an active electrician from among your friends or neighbors, you can invite him from the housing office.

Internal wiring should be done in the same way as the above options, and the connection should be made on your own switch box. Private house has a number of advantages in organizing grounding with your own hands, the place around the house belongs to you and no one will be against the installation of a new structure.

Here are the detailed steps on how to do it yourself:

1. We are preparing three sections of an old water pipe 1.5 m long - the maximum length should be at least the depth to which the soil freezes in winter.
2. We sharpen one end by making a conical cut, then drill a hole with a diameter of 5-10 mm at a height of one third from the lower end.
3. We dig a hole up to 60 cm deep and 1.5x1.5 m wide.
4. We drive in the pipes at a distance of 1.2 m from each other in the form of a triangle so that the upper end is 15 cm above the bottom of the pit.
5. We take a corner or reinforcement, cut it into three parts, measure it at the ends clogged pipes and connect the entire structure into a single whole.
6. We weld the ground wire to the top from the electrical panel located in the house.
7. This wire, made of a metal wire of large cross-section (at least 0.5 cm), is connected to the PE bus.

The grounding of the entire electrical home network is done, we fill the hole and put the sod in place, we designate the dimensions in any convenient way.

In the summer, when the hot period begins, it is necessary to water the pit with saline at least once a week (a pound of salt in a large bucket of water). If the temperature is below 30 0 С, water once a month. With this method you will ensure even distribution static stress in dry ground.

In conclusion, one more little tip: better times to make reliable and correct grounding, than to complain later that they did not save expensive household appliances, and they burned out.

Do I need to ground household appliances

Many users doubt the advisability of grounding, but we assure you that for safe use it is necessary to ground all electrical equipment in the house - from a kettle to household appliances such as a washing machine, refrigerator or smart TV.

Modern houses of the new generation have stationary grounding - this can be determined by special three-phase sockets connection to the general network. Houses of earlier construction are not equipped with grounding, the wire has to be laid independently, therefore, how to ground the washing machine and in what way it is better to do it are quite relevant questions.

For skeptics, here are a few examples:

1. Car with surge protector when connected to a network where there is no grounding, it will accumulate a voltage of 110 V on the case; when touched, you can feel a strong tingling sensation.
2. In case of violations of the insulating layer of the wire on the case, there will already be 220 V - when you touch it, you will get a good shake, if the unit is installed in the bathroom and water is spilled on the floor, then death may take place.
3. Grounding ensures that the delicate electronic filling is protected from power surges, as well as from lightning strikes to the antenna on the roof of the building.

That is why you need to competently ground all electrical appliances and appliances in your home - this is safety for all residents and installed household appliances.

There are also houses where there is no grounding, and you live on the third floor, and it is unprofitable to pull the wire to the ground. Then we solve the problem using the system potential equalization... It is quite simple and is based on the fact that all objects that feed on electric current or are capable of conducting it are connected into a single system using metal wires.

Now, if you touch the body of the washing machine and the mixer at the same time, then electricity will not go through your body. A prerequisite is the installation of a separate machine on your assistant, so that in case of any failure, she is immediately disconnected from the apartment network.

All internal wiring must be done with solid wires, they should be joined only in special boxes with thorough insulation.

Today it is difficult to imagine comfort without a variety of household appliances and a variety of lighting fixtures, but the possibility of their safe use depends on high-quality electrical wiring, as well as the availability of grounding in the apartment. The latter is especially important, since it serves reliable protection from electric shock, allows you to save electrical appliances from breakdowns and voltage surges. Unfortunately, on the territory of the CIS, in the houses of the old housing stock, grounding of apartments was not carried out. Only in new houses, starting in 1998, they began to install real electrical grounding.

And if in new buildings the problem with grounding is largely solved, then for houses of the old housing stock it remains relevant. Often, the owners of such apartments begin to think about grounding when they do overhaul or purchase expensive household appliances. And the first thing they encounter is the lack of the possibility of arranging high-quality grounding. There are many reasons for this, but having knowledge of what grounding is, how it is done, and what needs to be done for this, you can complete all the work without much difficulty.

Grounding systems

You can create protective grounding in an apartment in any case, it is important to know where and which wire to connect. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with different types grounding systems. This is important for a number of reasons. Firstly, houses built at different periods of time use different types grounding systems. And in order not to confuse anything, you need to understand them at least a little. Secondly, an error in creating grounding can lead to a failure of the entire network as a whole, or even lead to a fire. The safety of the use of electrical appliances and the life of people depend on a properly connected ground.

So, according to GOST, there are the following types of power grid grounding systems: TN-S, TN-C, TN-C-S, TT, IT... The difference between the two is the presence of a separate ground wire. The fact is that in some systems there is "phase", "zero" and "ground", and in some - only "phase" and "zero". The first two letters indicate the nature of the grounding of the power supply and the exposed parts of the conductor. The second part of the marking is of more interest to us. It is from it that you can find out where there is a separate ground wire, and where it is combined with "zero". So the letter "S" indicates that the system has a separate wire for "zero" and a separate one for grounding. The letter "C" indicates that "ground" and "zero" are represented by the same wire. The letter "N" marks the neutral, which is grounded in AC systems.

The grounding scheme in the apartment may contain the PE and PEN markings. In fact, this marking indicates the presence of a separate or combined ground. PEN is a combined "zero" and ground (C), and PE - separate conductors for "zero" and ground (S).

Important! The TT system provides for direct earthing of the equipment case. The IT system provides for grounding the equipment frame through a resistance or complete isolation current-carrying conductors. These systems are commonly used in enterprises.

Knowing the marking of grounding systems, it can be noted that the TN-C system is used in houses built before 1998. In such houses, two-wire wiring made of aluminum or copper is laid. Therefore, in high-rise buildings of that time, three phases (L) and one PEN (C) conductor are fed into the riser. Such grounding is also called grounding.

Grounding scheme in the apartment of the old housing stock:

TN-C

Modern houses are marked with TN-S or TN-C-S systems. Three phases (L), one zero working conductor (N) and one protected PE (S) conductor are connected to the riser of the house, and a three-wire wiring is laid in the premises. Connection to such a system is much easier in comparison with the TN-C system, since each conductor is provided with separate places connections, and the ground has a separate connection with metal case shield.

Grounding scheme in an apartment of a new housing stock:

TN-S 1 - power supply grounding; 2 - open conductive parts.

TN-C-S 1 - power supply grounding; 2 - open conductive parts.

It should be noted that the ground loop is equipped in multi-storey building even at the stage of its construction, therefore, it makes no sense to calculate the grounding. The creation of the outline diagram and all calculations are carried out at the design stage of the house. And if you need to make new calculations, it is better to contact specialists or use a special program.

Installation of grounding in a house with a TN-C-S system

There are several ways to determine which grounding system is in the house. The first is to contact the housing and communal services with an electrician with a question about grounding. The second is just to look into the distribution box on the floor and carefully examine the lead-in cable. For earthing system type TN-C-S the use of a five-core cable is characteristic: three phases (L), zero (N), and earth (PE). All wires are color-coded to facilitate identification. So "phase" (L) is brown or red, "zero" (N) is blue or of blue color, grounding (PE) - yellow wire with a green stripe or just green.

As noted earlier, it is quite simple to make grounding in new homes with the TN-C-S system. The fact is that a three-core wiring was originally laid inside the premises, and a separate grounding cable was provided in it. But if, having purchased an apartment after the builders, the absence of divorced wiring is found, then there is also nothing to worry about, you can do everything yourself. It will not be difficult to bring all the wires to the dashboard in the apartment.

The wires are connected as follows. If the switchboard has not been installed in the apartment, you will have to deal with its installation and installation of an RCD inside the panel. Typically, the shield is placed next to front door in an easily accessible place. Next to the shield, we drill a through hole and pass a cable through it to connect to the shield on the landing. We connect the wires of the incoming cable to the panel in the apartment as follows:

• yellow-green (ground) is connected to the ground bus. The tire itself is located in the lower right corner of the guard;
• the blue or blue wire (zero) is connected to the zero bus. It is located in the upper left corner of the dashboard;
• the supply wire (phase) is connected to several RCDs in series.
• now we connect the wiring from the apartment to the dashboard. We carry out the connection in the same way as described above, with the only difference that we connect a separate group of electrical appliances to a separate RCD.

Now we call the electricians to turn off the power to the riser. Once this is done, the electricians will connect to the main switchboard and turn on the electricity again. Upon completion of all work, you can test the network for grounding. Grounding check is carried out in the presence of a conventional voltmeter, other methods are unsafe. On the voltmeter, we set the maximum voltage to 250 V and apply one probe to the ground, the second to the "phase". The arrow should deviate by 230 - 240 V, then everything is in order.

Important! It is forbidden to connect to the main panel on your own. Firstly, you cannot turn off the riser yourself, and even if you can, you do not have permission to do so. Secondly, the connection to the general power grid should be made by a person with the appropriate authority, knowledge and skills. Third, you may be fined or more severely penalized for disconnecting without permission. In addition, any error can lead to fire or damage to the power grid.

Installation of grounding in a house with a TN-C system

Earlier it was noted that the houses of the old housing stock are characterized by the system earthing TN-C... You can check this in the same way as described above. The only difference is that by looking into the distribution board, you can see the absence of a yellow-green wire in the lead-in cable. There can be three phases and zero. Grounding in such houses, in fact, is absent, and making it for a single apartment is somewhat more difficult, but possible. To do this, you will have to carry out a major overhaul with a complete replacement of all wiring. This is important because the old wiring is a two-wire aluminum wire, and a third wire is also needed to create a ground.

Important! When completely replacing the wiring and laying a new one, it is necessary to draw up a plan-diagram of the laid wires with all junction boxes and connection points. All work is carried out at strict adherence safety regulations, wiring requirements, installation of connection points and lighting fixtures. When choosing wires and electrical appliances, you should know the requirements that apply to them for installation in residential premises. Compliance with all the rules during installation will depend on your safety when using the mains.

After laying the new wiring, we install the distribution board and RCDs in the same way as described above for the TN-C-S grounding system. We call the electricians and they make the connection. But the connection to the main switchboard itself will be done in a slightly different way. It's all about the missing ground wire. And at this stage, you can go in two ways: perform grounding or full grounding.

Zeroing in TN-C system

This path is somewhat easier, but also less secure. The fact is that the GOST recommendations for TN-C systems are somewhat outdated, not to mention the partially worn out supply cable, worn out electrical equipment and the deplorable state of the shields. As noted earlier, for such systems, grounding is performed by combining the neutral conductor with the grounding conductor. Which, combined with worn out equipment, can cause a fire. But there is nothing you can do about it, according to GOST everything is as it should be.

Full grounding in the TN-C system

The second way involves the creation of a full-fledged grounding loop. It is more complex, but also more reliable. You will have to create your own ground loop. To do this, having agreed with the electricians, you can bury the electrodes in the basement of the house and stretch a separate wire from them along the riser and from it start grounding into the apartment. Some homeowners on lower floors the ground loop is dug in directly next to the house. But it is worth noting that the creation of a full-fledged grounding in old houses is a very expensive business, requiring calculations for the ground loop itself.

Important! Some owners ground their wiring by connecting the wire to the radiators or cold water riser, as well as to gas pipes... This is an extremely flawed decision. First, such grounding reduces the reliability of the pipes. Secondly, no one will like that from touching warm battery he will be shocked. Thirdly, the strength of the current leaving through such a grounding can be large enough to leave a child who accidentally touched the pipe.

Creating grounding in an apartment is a very responsible occupation. The safety of using electrical appliances will depend on how well and reliably it is made. And compliance with the rules and requirements for the installation of wiring will allow you to forget about problems with the power grid for many years.

My bitter experience as an electrician allows me to assert: If your "grounding" is done as it should - that is, there is a place for connecting "grounding" conductors in the shield, and all plugs and sockets have "grounding" contacts - I envy you, and you have nothing worry.

Grounding rules

What is the problem, why is it impossible to connect the ground wire to the heating or water supply pipes?

In reality, in urban conditions, wandering currents and other interfering factors are so great that anything can be on the heating battery. However, the main problem is that the tripping current of the circuit breakers is large enough. Accordingly, one of the options for a possible accident is a short-circuit breakdown of a phase to the case with a leakage current just somewhere on the limit of the machine's operation, that is, at best 16 amperes. Total, we divide 220v by 16A - we get 15 ohms. A total of some thirty meters of pipes, and you get 15 ohms. And the current flowed somewhere, in the direction of an uncut forest. But it doesn't matter anymore. It is important that in the next apartment (up to which 3 meters, not 30, the voltage on the tap is almost the same 220.), but on, say, sewer pipe- real zero or so.

And now the question is - what will happen to the neighbor if, while sitting in the bathroom (having connected to the sewer by opening the plug), he touches the tap? Have you guessed?

The prize is prison. Under the article on violation of electrical safety rules that resulted in a victim.

Do not forget that you cannot imitate the "grounding" circuit by connecting the "zero working" and "zero protective" conductors in the European socket, as some "craftsmen" sometimes practice. Such a substitution is extremely dangerous. Cases of burning off "working zero" in the shield are not uncommon. After that, on the case of your refrigerator, computer, etc. 220V is very firmly placed.

The consequences will be approximately the same as with the neighbor, with the difference that no one will be responsible for this, except for the one who made such a connection. And as practice shows, this is done by the owners themselves, tk. consider themselves competent enough not to call an electrician.

"Grounding" and "neutralization"

One of the options for "grounding" is. But not as in the case described above. The fact is that there is a zero potential on the body of the switchboard, on your floor, or more precisely, the zero wire passing through this very shield simply has contact with the body of the switchboard by means of a bolted connection. Zero conductors from the apartments located on this floor also join the shield body. Let's take a closer look at this point. What we see is that each of these ends is wound under its own bolt (in practice, however, it is often found that these ends are paired). This is where our newly-made conductor should be connected, which will later be called "grounding".

This situation also has its own nuances. What prevents "zero" from being burnt out at the entrance to the house. Strictly speaking, nothing. We can only hope that there are fewer houses in the city than apartments, which means that the percentage of such a problem is much less. But this is again the Russian "maybe", which does not solve the problem.

The only correct decision in this situation. Take a metal corner 40x40 or 50x50, 3 meters long, hammer it into the ground so that they do not stumble over it, namely, we dig a hole into two bayonets of a shovel in depth and hammer our corner there as much as possible, and draw a PV-3 wire from it (flexible , stranded), with a cross section of at least 6 mm. sq. before, your switchboard.

Ideally, it should consist of 3 - 4 corners that are welded metal strip the same width. The distance between the corners should be 2 m.

Just don't drill a hole in the ground with a meter drill and lower the pin there. It is not right. And the efficiency of such grounding is close to zero.

But, as with any method, it has its drawbacks. You are, of course, lucky if you live in a private house, or at least on the ground floor. But what about those who live on the 7-8 floor? Stock up on a 30 meter wire?

So how do you find a way out of this situation? I am afraid that even the most experienced electricians will not give you an answer to this question.

What is required for wiring around the house

For wiring around the house, you will need a copper grounding wire of the appropriate length and cross-section of at least 1.5 mm. sq. and, of course, a socket with a "grounding" contact. Box, plinth, bracket - a matter of aesthetics. Perfect option, this is when you make repairs. In this case, I recommend choosing a cable with three cores in double insulation, better than VVG. One end of the wire is inserted under the free bolt of the switchboard busbar connected to the switchboard housing, and the other - on the "grounding" contact of the socket. If there is an RCD in the shield, the grounding conductor should not have contact with the N conductor anywhere on the line (otherwise, the RCD will operate).

Do not forget that the "ground" has no right to be torn by means of any switches.