What kind of oil to process wood products. Everything you need to know about finishing wood with linseed oil

Wax and oil for wooden floors and parquet - coating technology, maintenance and restoration of such floors.

Oil and wax have been the main means of caring for wood floors for centuries.

Fans of Soviet cinema will even remember that there was such a profession as a floor polisher, highlighted in the movie “Odnozhdy odin” with the great actor A. Papanov in the title role.

Now, waxing and oiling have become popular again, as both the procedure and technology for working with oil and wax have become much simpler.

This is primarily facilitated by care products, as well as tools and methods for applying oil.

Properly treated wooden floors, behind which proper care, will repay you with their wonderful views.

Why is it more correct to cover the floors with oil and not with varnish?

The wooden floor covered with oil acquires antistatic properties.

To the touch it becomes warm and not as slippery as a varnished floor.

The oil, due to its penetration into the depth of the wood structure, has higher protective properties of the entire solid wood (from the inside).

Among other things, on a floor covered with oil, any damage, chips, scratches, abrasions, etc. are either not visible at all, or much less noticeable.

Another plus of the oil is that it has excellent hydro protective properties, leaving at the same time the pores of the wood open, which is why the tree retains its naturalness and, simply speaking, "breathes", and this maintains a constant and favorable level of humidity in the apartment or room.

What are the pros and cons of oil flooring?

Before covering the floor with oil, its careful preparation is required.

Try to adhere to the application technology as accurately as possible, and observe technological breaks between the stages of work.

Remember that immediately after oiling the floor becomes dirty much faster than a varnished floor.

A floor treated with a little requires maintenance with the help of products recommended by the manufacturer of the oil composition.

Remember - metal furniture or metal objects should not be placed on the floor under oil, in order to avoid their reaction, after which dark spots remain on the floor.

What kind of wood (floor) can be covered with oil?

The actual application of oil is a kind of alternative to varnishing wood.

Getting started, clearly decide for yourself what effect you want to achieve?

So little dampens the shine, but effectively emphasizes the structure of the tree, as well as its pattern (arrangement of fibers).

Types of wood that can be oiled

Oil coating is used more often for exotic woods. Of the "domestic" species, it is used for application to ash and oak floors.

But there are wood species that are directly recommended to be processed with oil and not with varnish. Among them are lapacho (ipe), jatoba, campas, iroko, and other woods that contain an increased amount of oily substances that prevent the same varnish from sticking to the surface.

Where is the oil used?

The answer to this question is simple - where you need it and, first of all, where varnish cannot be used.

Corridors.

Oil is appropriate here because the floor covered with it is resistant to wiping, which often happens at the entrance to the house and the corridor of the apartment, and the place where it is erased is easy to fix with your own hands.

Terraces (more).

On terraces, oil impregnations are most often used, for outdoor work with wooden structures.

The downside here is that the small terrace will have to be covered 2 times a year. With this frequency of application, the wood will retain a deep color, be protected from water, and from the so-called "biological corrosion".

Bathrooms.

Since after processing the wood with oil, it fills its pores, the wood becomes harder, which is very important for the bathroom, because neither moisture nor evaporation can penetrate into the deeper layers, but at the same time, vapors can quickly escape.

But remember, no matter how great the protective properties of the oil, only a small number of types of wood can be used in the bathroom.

Exotic breeds are best suited - ipe or otherwise lapacho and teak.

Processing of heated floors (heat-insulated floors).

In this case, the situation is complicated by the fact that the tree expands when the temperature rises and contracts when it is lowered, so oil for underfloor heating is the best fit, because it can stretch and shrink along with the tree, unlike the same varnish, which creates a strong film and wood cracks when stretched.

What is floor oil made from?

Oil-wax.

For creating protective coating floors use wax oils. It is nothing more than a mixture of liquid wax and the oil itself.

Wax in its composition is needed to give the floors a soft, matte sheen. The surface of floors treated with such a composition is more slippery.

Floor oil without resins.

Contains at least 90-99 percent natural oil. Contains a small amount of solvents (and some brands do not contain at all), and, therefore, environmentally friendly.

Of the advantages, the main one is the simplicity and speed of application (no breaks for the solvent to dry).

To cover the same floor area, oil without the addition of resins will require significantly less than those containing solvents and resins.

The main disadvantage is that it requires more thorough and frequent maintenance, like all natural coatings.

Oil with high content solid(high-solid).

Very dense. They contain resins that strengthen the oil, so you rarely need to update such floors, because the resin sticks oil particles to the wood fibers.

Types of floor oils - colored and colorless

Colorless or clear oils light yellow. They are used more often for dark wood species, but any species can be processed, there are no restrictions.

They can be used for any type of wood, but they are most often used for dark woods.

Dark - the color of walnut, cherry or oak. They process oak parquet, as well as rare and exotic wood species (except guatamba).

Whitening sex oils.

Gray, white or silver oil is used to process light woods, such as maple, ash, birch. They also resort to them for processing oak - it turns out very beautifully - “antique”, with a certain whitening effect and a silvery tint.

How to prepare parquet for oiling

Preparing floors before oiling is very milestone, on which half the success depends, because the oil is very strong (to a greater extent than varnish, for example) shows all the flaws and minuses of wooden floors. So all the bumps become clearly visible, as well as, for example, poor grinding.

Therefore, oiled floors should be well sanded using sandpaper of various grits (start with sanding 20, then from 36 to 150), depending on the type of floor.

Just as important is the grinding of the boundaries of the floor covering.

It is made in the same way, that is, using paper with the same grain change.

If you use too fine-grained paper to sand the floor, you can close the pores of the wood, after which the oil will not penetrate into them.

Be sure to putty the floor before the last polishing before applying the oil.

Polish the floor also very carefully and evenly - if the floor is poorly polished, stains will be visible on the floor.

Attention!

On the various stages processing wood floors (this is grinding, polishing, applying oil, removing its excess) work is best done using grinders and thermal pads with a hairdryer.

Wooden surfaces are treated with felt or microfiber nozzles (these are pads).

pads different hardness differ in prices, at each stage of work you need to use the pad recommended by their manufacturer.

Oil application technology

After grinding, polishing and subsequent removal of dust, proceed to the application of oil. It is better to start this stage as soon as possible so that the tree's own resins and oils do not clog its pores.

Oil coating is done in several stages, between which so-called technological breaks are necessarily made.

Remove excess oil immediately to prevent it from drying out and forming a crust.

Some flooring formulations include wax to finishing wood - it must also be removed immediately, if this is not done, it may cause minor scratches on it.

The floor can be oiled in two ways: cold and hot.

Depending on the type of wood and oil, work can be done in 1, 2 or 3 passes.

The stronger the tree absorbs oil, the more passes you need to do (for example, beech floors are treated three times). cold way Applying oil is easier because this method does not require thermal pads.

But the hot method of applying oil is good because the oil penetrates the thickness of the wood better, which means the result is better, because the coating lasts longer.

1. How to apply oil in a cold way.

Applying the first layer

The oil is applied in a thin layer and as evenly as possible, the excess is removed with a soft cloth after a couple of minutes.

After that, they proceed to polishing the surface with a polishing machine with a beige pad, or by placing steel wool on the pad to remove the wood fibers.

After polishing with a polishing machine, all wet places should be wiped dry with any cotton rag. After processing, the oil may stand out for several more hours. Then it should be wiped again, and polished again.

Second layer.

The application of the second layer is started after 5-12 hours (more precisely, it is written on the package with a small one).

Please note that the second layer of oil should go much less, since the floor absorbs it already in a smaller volume.

Last layer oil (can be either the second or third) is completed by removing its excess with a green or black pad, as well as polishing, for which a red pad is used.

A floor is considered well-finished when it is sufficiently saturated with oil and has a light, pleasant sheen, which is also called "satin".

As a rule, you can walk on an oiled floor after a week or two.

2. Hot oil application method.

First layer.

Oil heated to the required temperature (usually 80 degrees) in a water bath is applied (very carefully and evenly) to the tree with a spatula.

As noted above, hot oil saturates the wood better.

An important detail is that the floor must also be heated before processing, because oil can remain on its surface on a cold parquet. By the way, the parquet is also heated with a thermopad.

The oil is also rubbed into the floor using a thermal pad with a beige pad. You need to do this until it is completely absorbed.

Second layer.

The second layer is usually applied in rooms where an increased load (abrasion) on the floors is possible.

The second layer is applied in the same way as the first, 2-2.5 hours after the first.

With the hot method, the surface that has absorbed the oil should be obtained, without matte spots.

Wax application.

Floor wax is needed to eliminate scratches. Wax forms though thin but very strong and resistant to dirt outer layer.

Waxing of floors is started 48 hours after the last coat of oil has been applied.

The wax drips off the thermal pad and is then rubbed and polished with a white pad.

Re-polishing with the same pad (white) is done no earlier than three hours later.

It will be possible to walk on the floor no earlier than in a week. In more early dates it cannot be started to operate - dirt gets into the soft layers very well. It is also not recommended to lay carpets on the floor covered with hot oil in the first weeks after work.

Maintenance of oiled floors

Caring for such floors is more difficult than lacquered ones. They get dirty very, very quickly, especially at the beginning. Dirt will stop sticking to the floor only when all the pores of the wood are saturated with oil. To care for the floors use products of the same series as the oil itself.

Note that such floors need systematic care, their periodic restoration, only then they will look expensive and spectacular, and their wear resistance will not decrease.

Dry care

During the first week (sometimes 10 days), be sure to dry clean, vacuum or sweep. The floor can be wiped with a dry cloth or a thick soft mop.

wet way.

Floors are either washed or wiped with water liquid soap(based on vegetable oil) or by special means which include wax, water, essential and vegetable oils.

Keep in mind that after washing, the floor under oil often tarnishes, so subsequent polishing will be required. You can polish with a simple woolen cloth or with a single-disc grinder.

Periodic care.

To give the floor a shine, after the advent of some time, the floors are covered hard wax or rub with mastic, which can be replaced with an oil-based care product, and then polished again.

Floor restoration

It is quite possible to do the restoration of the floor covered with oil with your own hands. True, in this case you will lose the guarantee of the company that performed the processing.

AT ordinary house applying a new layer of oil and wax is done every two to three years.

Often, re-polishing after such application is not required - the floors will only need to be washed. But if there is still a need for grinding, then after applying oil, polish the floors with the same single-disk grinder with a pad.

After these procedures, the floor can be walked on after 4-5 hours, although the coating will acquire its final strength only after 5-7 days.

Scratches and stains

Oiled flooring gives you the opportunity to make small repairs yourself, for example, to get rid of stains and scratches that are less visible on oil than on varnished floors. Scratches are the easiest to remove - sand them with sandpaper and saturate with wax or oil. After applying the solution, the floor will swell slightly (temporarily) and the scratch will heal.

To remove stains on floors (immediately after treatment, the floor becomes more dirty) use plain water(washed off quite easily), if the stains are voluminous, then use the care products for such floors, preferably from the same manufacturer.

If the stains do not give in, then again it is recommended to rub them lightly with the same type of oil.

Places with excessively large stains or deep scratches grinding is recommended. Be sure to sand in the direction of the grain (wood pattern). Sand with 100 to 200 grit sandpaper, then lightly oil to restore the original look. The difference between the freshly treated areas and the rest of the surface will be visible for some time, then it will disappear (the difference can be observed even up to 4 months).

Parquet board coated with oil in the factory.

There is one, and it is intended for those who do not want to cover the floor with oil with their own hands. You will only have to make her styling, and this process is no different from simple styling

How long does it take for oil to dry on floors?

The time for complete drying of the oil directly depends on the type of wood and the oil used.

As a rule, complete drying occurs after short term from 4 to 10 hours, sometimes up to 12.

But after that, you need to use the floors carefully for at least a day. Normal operation of the floors is possible only after a week, and even better 2.

Any tree (one more, another less) contains some residual resins, so the penetration of oil into varieties with more resins (spruce, pine, fir) is difficult. Based on this, the oil dries for a longer period of time, and may even stand out from the wood for some time (usually up to 48 hours).

If you covered the floor with oil using the hot application method, the drying time is less by 5-7 days.

Oiled floor color

Pigments are added to the floor treatment oil in order to obtain the desired shades of the floor covering.

It is clear that the more coloring pigment you add (usually 7-10 percent of the volume of the oil solution), the darker, more saturated the color will be.

The effect of colorization appears immediately after application - there will be no need to wait.

Also a tip: Be careful with the addition of white coloring pigment, when applying, rub it with a pad as thoroughly as possible, because otherwise the floors will look like sloppy painted with white paint.

Note: If the wood is stained, it is strongly not recommended to treat it with oil.

Oil does not form films like varnish, so everything that somehow comes into contact with the floor will also be painted.

How much to apply oil on the floors?

The volume of oil depends on the type of wood, the method of application and, of course, on the composition itself.

As noted above, oily wood species (including coniferous and "exotic") absorb it less.

So for 40 squares oak parquet the first treatment should take 1 liter of oil.

The second layer will take much less.

Hot oil treatment will require more solution.

Natural oils are consumed in a smaller volume than their "brothers" containing solvents.

How is oil different from sex wax?

Many people think that they are one and the same, but they are not.

Wax forms a thin layer on the surface of the floor and "seals" the pores of the wood.

Care of floors (in particular washing) covered with wax is much harder.

Wax, when water gets on it, brightens and needs to be restored, forming stains (this does not happen with oil - it perfectly protects against water.

Pros and cons of oil and wax in comparison - Table

All photos from the article

Despite the fact that currently construction market literally oversaturated with synthetic and mineral materials for roughing and finishing works, nevertheless oil impregnation for wood remains relevant to this day. Indeed, in our house or apartment there will always be design components, furniture or various utensils that are made of solid wood or other lumber such as chipboard, OSB or plywood.

Therefore, we will now talk about which compounds are suitable for impregnation, how it is done, and in addition we will show you a video in this article.

Impregnation

What is it for

Note. The main goal, which is achieved in the end result, when impregnating oil for wood is used, is to extend the life of the product.

• Let's start with the fact that the impregnation of wood with used oil, and even better with linseed oil, is much more effective than opening it with varnish, since the varnish can crack, and water will certainly penetrate into the cracks, besides, it wears off very quickly under mechanical stress. In addition, the structure of the oil-treated wood does not change, for example, if it is a knife handle or a rifle butt, then they will not slip - they will retain the slight roughness inherent in wood.
• Products opened with oil have a soft sheen that does not disappear with time even with partial abrasion - the fact is that the composition penetrates deep enough and constant grinding from the touch of hands will not harm this in any way.
• In addition, the instruction recommends treating wood with various antiseptics, but in this case this will not be necessary, since the impregnation tightly clogs all the pores and the formation of microorganisms that cause mold and decay.

Methods of application - rubbing and boiling

• One of the most common ways in which wood is impregnated with transformer oil or linseed (hemp) oil can be called rubbing it into the surface and this is done using fine sandpaper (P400) and a cloth made from natural fibers. This procedure is carried out 3-4 times in between for complete drying of the surface, which may take 1-2 days.

This, of course, is very long, but the effect is excellent. A rag is used first to apply liquid to the surface, and then at the final stage - for grinding, and this is possible to cover fairly large areas.

Note. There is also a way to smear the surface paint brush or maklavitsa, but this technique used only for painting. In such cases, drying oil is applied to the surface.

Of course, the best will be natural materials that are obtained from flax and hemp, hemp, olives, soybeans and sunflowers, but flax is still the undisputed leader among all plants - such impregnation or boiling is of the highest quality.

Sunflower can be called the most ineffective, since there are few polyunsaturated fatty acids, but working out, of course, is in the very last place for obvious reasons.

Let's take a look at the simplest and most common treatment, oil-based wood stain, which can be used on objects large and small, as well as on ceilings, floors and walls.

The real method goes back far into the past and has probably existed for as long as the carpentry and carpentry craft itself - fortunately, there has always been where to get the components, because flax and hemp grow in abundance not only in Russia, but also in most of the globe .

The main purpose of this action is the waterproofing of lumber, that is, it is impregnated top part processed product, where all the pores and cracks are clogged (they turn out to be hydrophobic), which makes it impossible for moisture to penetrate, which means it excludes decay and the occurrence of conditions for the vital activity of microorganisms.

Let's see in detail how to impregnate a tree linseed oil and take four planks of oak, maple, ash and beech for this - here we can see how a different texture appears after processing. we will do it to save time - in practice, you can also act in this way.

We generously lubricate each of the boards with a brush, not trying to particularly rub the liquid into the surface, and after we have already covered all the planes, we begin to rub the contents with a napkin made of natural fibers (wool, linen, cotton) or fine sandpaper(zero).

The time of such a process is not limited - it all depends on the porosity of the structure - the larger the pores, the faster their ability to absorb liquid, and the rubbing process simply speeds up this process. It turns out that you can spend 20-30 seconds on one plank, but you can also spend 2-3 minutes - here the duration only increases the quality, since the sawn timber is being sanded at the same time.

It is important to take into account one nuance - when rubbing, you need not only to remove excess oil from the surface of the material being processed, but to try to rub it inside the wood - this is somewhat reminiscent of a back massage using a cream or gel, when it is desirable to spend the entire composition.

Therefore, you need to continue processing until the surface of the lumber is almost dry. As we have already said, for high-quality wood processing, you will need to repeat this process three to four times, but for this you need to wait for the final drying of the previous layer, which can take from one to two days at room temperature and moderate air humidity in the room.

If fine sandpaper can be used when rubbing the impregnation over the first and second layers, then this is not permissible for the last coating - only a napkin made of natural material(preferably wool). It is with a napkin that you polish the product completely and the longer you do this, the more beautiful the surface will look.

It's no secret that any tree needs additional protection and processing before being used in everyday life. One such way of processing wood is linseed oil impregnation.

Impregnation with linseed oil - how does it work?

What is so special about linseed oil? Among all vegetable oils linseed has the highest content of such polyunsaturated acid as linoleic. When solidified and oxidized, this acid turns into an excellent natural polymer. After the oil becomes a semi-solid, elastic substance that fills all the pores of the tree, thanks to this, such a wonderful effect is achieved when treating wood with linseed oil.

Pros, cons and scope of wood impregnation with linseed oil

Why is wood impregnated with linseed oil?

Linseed oil for wood impregnation is considered one of the best options.

The advantages of such processing include:

Improving the appearance of the product. Linseed oil penetrates into the deep layers of wood, while emphasizing the natural structure of the tree, giving a natural (natural) shade. does not raise the pile of wood, the wood after processing is smooth to the touch and has a beautiful appearance

Increases the durability of wood. Impregnation for wood based on linseed oil can significantly increase the resistance of wood to the effects of factors environment. Impregnation with linseed oil gives the wood water and dirt-repellent properties, respectively, protects the wood from any moisture, linseed oil is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and well protects the wood from the sun, prevents drying and cracking. Linseed oil, after drying, remains an elastic material, unlike coatings it does not crack over time and does not allow moisture to pass into the cracks formed.

Protects wood. Linseed oil for wood processing is the best natural antiseptic. Treatment of wood with linseed oil protects against processes such as decay, mold and fungi.

Ecologically pure material. Linseed oil is a completely natural and absolutely safe material for humans and the environment. It does not cause allergic reactions and other troubles, it has no smell, unlike synthetic analogues. Impregnation of wood with linseed oil allows the material to breathe, as the oil penetrates deep into the wood and does not leave a film on the surface.

Linen impregnation oil is suitable for processing absolutely any wood, furniture, interior items, wooden utensils, external facades of the house, floors, windows, window sills, doors, etc.

It can be safely used for both outdoor and indoor work.

But most often flaxseed oil is used for decorative finishes small interior items. Although linseed oil is not expensive, but its consumption for surface treatment is quite high and therefore the treatment of such extensive surfaces as the floor of a house or a facade will result in a decent amount, it is much cheaper to treat wood with wood stain or varnish. In addition, impregnating with linseed oil and drying a large surface is a rather labor-intensive process and will take a lot of time.

Difficulty in applying linseed oil impregnation a large number wood and is perhaps the only drawback.

It is very popular among hunters and connoisseurs of weapons

Processing is carried out a few weeks before the start of the hunting season. Impregnation is also popular

Impregnation with linseed oil - technology

According to its technology, it is no different from processing with any other oil or composition and consists of the following steps:

- material preparation and surface cleaning. Wood before processing must be dry and cleaned of the old coating. If you will process a new tree, it is enough just to lightly sand the surface.

- oil preparation. Before applying to the surface, it is recommended to heat the oil, in the form of heat it penetrates into the pores of the tree more easily and, accordingly, the treatment effect will be higher. Sometimes, to speed up drying, linseed oil with wax is used to treat wood. In this case, wax is added to the oil during heating, heated until the wax dissolves.

- linseed oil impregnation. Impregnation of wood with linseed oil can be carried out in several ways:

Waxing - applying oil to the surface with a brush;

Soaking - when an object is immersed in a container of oil;

Impregnation with linseed oil using a vacuum. Applies to industry only.

Soaking is often used for impregnation small parts. This process is quite simple in capacity required size linseed oil is heated until white smoke appears, then objects are immersed there, the lid is tightly closed and left in this state for two to three hours. Then take out and dry.

When waxing after heating, the oil is applied to the surface with a brush or foam sponge. Apply along the fibers with rubbing movements, repeat the application 5-6 times. Linseed oil penetrates deep into the pores of the wood and is therefore absorbed almost completely, but still a certain amount of oil may remain on the surface, therefore, a few hours after applying the last layer of oil, it is necessary to wipe the surface with a dry rag to remove excess oil. After each application, you can let the surface dry and then repeat the procedure, in which case you can control the resulting color, shade and appearance products if it is of fundamental importance, but such a process will take much longer.

Product drying. After applying the last layer of linseed oil, the tree must be dried. This process usually takes two to three weeks, but it can take longer.

After complete drying, the surface is polished using wax, rosin or turpentine.

More clearly shown in the next video. Happy viewing.

Irina Zheleznyak, Correspondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

In the very recent past, almost all dishes were made of clay or wood. The only exception was frying pans. This made sense: food cooked in a clay pot had a special flavor. And the wooden spoon never got hot. No chemicals were used in these products. Even to make the wooden spoons and bowls shine, no varnishes or paints were used - they were simply boiled in hemp or linseed oil. The effect of this was excellent: wooden products were soaked with oil and became more attractive.

To give wooden surface Shine and radiance can be applied to it with oil.

Impregnation of wood with oil has been used to this day, although modern technologies wood finishes and differ from ancient ways. At present, wood impregnation does not require boiling the product itself. But boiled oil is used for this purpose. But to understand all the tricks of impregnation, you need to understand the finishing processes. wooden products deeper.

Why impregnation is needed

Classification of types of wood protection.

First consider the need finishing coatings and their types. Any material requires protection - this is an indisputable fact. This is the main task of any impregnation - to protect the tree from pests, fungal infections and excess moisture, which can provoke the appearance of fungus. The second task of impregnation is to hide defects in the processing of the product or minor flaws in the material itself. Such impregnations include: wood staining, waxing and oil impregnation. Wood staining does not have a protective function, therefore it is more of a decorative impregnation.

Waxing a wooden surface can greatly improve the visual appeal of a tree. The essence of waxing is that hot wax is applied to a wooden surface in a large layer, after which the excess wax is either simply removed with a soft cloth or rubbed into the surface. At the same time, all microcracks on the surface of the wood are clogged with wax (and they are always present), so the surface becomes smoother and receives excellent protection from moisture.

What is needed for impregnation

Before applying oil to a wooden surface, it must be cleaned with sandpaper.

Wood impregnation is the most strong defense wood, as the oil penetrates deep into its structure. To impregnate wood with oil at home, you will need:

• oily liquid for impregnation;
• capacity;
• brush;
• soft fabric;
• sandpaper.

Wood impregnation begins with surface preparation. First, the outer part must be carefully cleaned (this applies to old surfaces). The fact is that the tree very well absorbs dust and other contaminants. If the tree is not cleaned, then all these blockages, together with the oily liquid, will fall deep into the structure, it will be completely impossible to remove them. We clean the wood with sandpaper and blow off the wood dust from the surface. After that, you can already begin to apply the composition to the surface.

How to choose oil

In practice, linseed oil is often used to treat wooden surfaces.

Various oils can be used as impregnation. The choice of special compositions in the building products market is wide. When choosing it, you should not rush, because by mistake you can purchase a product that is not suitable for impregnating certain wood. Density of a tree different breeds differs very much, therefore there are several oils just for the type of wood. Such highly specialized liquids are not worth buying.

It is better to choose an oil designed, for example, for deciduous trees. Such a substance has a wider spectrum of action, so it will be more difficult to make a mistake in choosing. Do not forget to pay attention to other parameters of the oil. Do not be surprised if you see information on the container that the oil has a coloring effect. Manufacturers of the named product specifically took this step. Firstly, it is much easier to work with such an oil product, and secondly, after the surface dries, the wood will get a richer shade. For impregnation, not only a specialized oil composition can be used. In practice, the usual compositions of plant origin are often used: flaxseed, hemp, tar. Drying oil can also be considered oil for impregnation (by the way, it was drying oil that was used for the first time for impregnating wooden surfaces).

Procedure and technology for applying oil

It is necessary to apply oil to wood along the structural fibers.

Butter industrial production applied to the tree according to the attached instructions. The oil is usually applied warm. So the oil particles will have a greater speed and will quickly penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. Impregnation of the surface of the tree with oil is carried out with an ordinary paint brush of medium hardness.

The width of the brush is chosen depending on the width of the product itself. Smears should be applied in one direction along the structural fibers. If the impregnated surface has a large width, then its oil coating is carried out from top to bottom. good impregnation should be plentiful, and it is applied in 2-3 layers with an interval of several hours (it all depends on weather conditions).

Typically, the time interval between applying layers is 2 hours. The last layer is to be treated with a dry cloth. Movements are also carried out along the structural fibers. We press the rag to the surface strongly, as if trying to push the oil even deeper. Why is this? After several coats of oil upper layer wood is somewhat soaked, so the surface has become slightly rough. Strong pressure with a soft cloth will return all the particles to their original position. After drying, the wood will be very smooth.

The impregnation does not dry instantly, so postpone all work with the impregnated surface for a while (about a week). The tree should dry under normal weather conditions but in a ventilated area. Direct Sun rays will be an enemy for impregnation, so the product must be dried indoors. Further, the surface should simply be polished. Use special chemical compositions there is no need, since the impregnation itself already gives the product a beautiful look.

Features of the type of wood and additional finishes

Coniferous trees do not need oil impregnation, as they contain natural resins, which can also be considered impregnation.

Since coniferous woods do not need to be impregnated with oil, use varnishing to protect them.

There is only one drawback: the resin is able to evaporate. Products from conifers trees are also partially impregnated after several years of operation. It is pointless to use oils for these purposes, since resins do not allow the oil to penetrate deep into the wooden structure. The need exists only to protect the top layer of the product. Waxing or varnishing gives such wood a beautiful appearance and provides the necessary protection for several years. After a certain period of time, waxing or varnishing must be repeated. By the way, a tree impregnated oil composition, also has a non-eternal protective ability. Typically, this coverage is valid for about 5 years. After this period, the entire procedure described should be repeated. True, in this case it is not necessary to apply several layers: the oil product is present in the inner part of the tree and continues to protect the product.

More reliable protection should be considered the use of several ways of finishing the material. Often, after impregnation and polishing, a layer of varnish is also applied to the product. The varnish creates a barrier to the evaporation of oil particles, so the impregnation is retained for more a long period. But the varnish layer will have to be updated after a while. If you have chosen just such a way to protect the tree, then we can recommend using a matte varnish. On an oil-soaked surface, such a varnish looks more organic.

Oil-based formulations are a versatile solution suitable for decorative finishes on any type of wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but they have a wide range of other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, and environmental friendliness. Processing wood with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product, it allows you to emphasize the natural beauty of the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.

A simple application technology avoids streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the finish can be easily removed and updated. As a rule, oil is used for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oils are most in demand?

Linseed oil – characterized by ease of application, deep penetration into the wood structure, high resistance to impacts external environment. The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Processing of large-pored wood with linseed oil is carried out in several layers.

Drying oil This is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of desiccants in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes this species finishes are much more practical.

Tung oil , obtained from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, effectively emphasizes the texture of wood and forms a wear-resistant matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. If linseed oil is more suitable for restoring old surfaces, then the use of tung oil is more appropriate when finishing new products.

Danish oil – finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbent substances. Wood treatment with Danish oil allows you to emphasize its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the characteristics of the composition.

teak oil - a mixture of natural oils, resins and absorbent components. Finishing the wood with teak oil results in a durable decorative coating with glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours, depending on the specific composition.

What is dry oil residue?

The percentage of dry oil residue is an important characteristic that determines the features of the finishing composition. Dry residue is understood as the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various hardening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry residue of the product, the better the covering ability it has. Accordingly, an oil with a high solids content requires fewer layers of application. At the same time, the process of drying (polymerization) of such compositions takes more time.

How to properly prepare the surface?

Before applying the finishing composition, the surface of the wood is ground using abrasives of various grain sizes:

• wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
• wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives P180-P240.

The sanded surface is dusted with a damp lint-free cloth. When applying the finish to oily woods (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.

How to treat wood with oil: general principles

The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface with a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Evenly distributing a plentiful amount of oil on a wooden surface, it must be allowed to soak (about 15 minutes), then wipe the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be glossy, sticky, with possible staining.

Spread the oil evenly to avoid spotting. Edges and ends should be treated first, because. due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing composition more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.

The optimum temperature for wood treatment with oil is 15-25°C. At values ​​below 10°C and high humidity it is better to temporarily refuse work.

Professional intricacies of oil application

If stains form on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.

To give the composition a more liquid consistency, necessary for uniform distribution on the surface, place the oil container in hot water. Avoid contact with open flames.

Oil should not be applied under direct sun exposure, as it will absorb too quickly, which in turn will make re-treatment more difficult.

Use a special dispenser to impregnate the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.

How does the oil lay on the stain?

Oil and stain - not the best, but quite acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorbency of subsequent compositions, because. partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, it is allowed to use only stain on water based. At the same time, practice shows that tinting pastes for tinting oils are a more effective alternative to stain in this case.

How long does it take for oil to dry?

• linseed oil - 2-3 days;
• linseed drying oil - 24 hours;
• tung oil - 24 hours;
• polyurethane oil varnish-12 o'clock;
• Danish oil - 4-12 hours;
• teak oil - 4-6 tsp.

Since oils harden (polymerize) during oxidation, reacting with oxygen, products must be dried in a room with constant air circulation.

What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?

Reacting with oxygen, oils oxidize. This process is accompanied by heating, which can provoke spontaneous combustion of cleaning cloths and other items used in the course of work. Therefore, never leave oil-soaked rags rolled up: dry them unfolded outside and only then dispose of them. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that have come into contact with oil should be stored in a sealed metal container.