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At this stage of time, it is difficult to imagine at least one house without light switches. These units are various kinds, but they are all fairly easy to install, they can be easily connected to the network even by a person with basic knowledge electricians.
Tools
Before proceeding to connect the switch to the network, you need to prepare a number of tools:
- curly, straight and indicator screwdrivers;
- connector;
- sharpened knife;
- pliers.
Wiring Features
The connection diagram of the switch, depending on its type (the number of keys is taken into account), varies slightly.
Most simple option is the connection single-gang switch, in which case you can do everything yourself. In such a situation, in the distribution box, there are only 2 wires - zero and phase.
The blue wire (zero) is connected to the same wire on the lamp. The input phase initially moves to the device to turn off the light, after which it returns to the distribution box again, and only then it is connected to the phase from the light bulb.
The main condition for connecting a single-key light switch is attentiveness, because even with only two wires, situations are quite common when a person confuses the wires.
Connecting a two-gang switch will require great knowledge of electricians, this is justified by the fact that all groups of lamps have a separate circuit break. As with a single-key unit, there are two cores in the distribution box. The blue wire is connected to other wires of the same color at the input.
There are ways to connect switches without a junction box, but they require a lot of electrical skills and are mostly done by professionals.
The phase is initially carried out on a break, on both buttons, then it is fixed in a predetermined recess. Outgoing wires go to each group of lighting fixtures present or to two individual light bulbs.
It is necessary to take into account the fact that rear end The case contains three holes: two are located on the left side, and one more on the right. Where there is only one hole, the input phase is connected, and where there are two holes, the output phase is connected to the lamp.
When installing a light-off unit with three keys, you need to proceed by analogy with installing a device containing two keys. Zero, as in the presented options, is connected to the zeros of each individual group of light bulbs.
The input phase is sent to break, and after that it is divided into three different phase conductors, each of which is sent to its own group of light bulbs.
Connection via socket
If there is an outlet near the planned installation site for turning off the light, then you can power the phase and zero from it.
In order for the connection of the switch from the outlet to be successful, you must follow the following sequence of actions:
Initially, you need to remove the power supply from the outlet. Similar actions can be performed by relieving stress from the whole house.
You need to open the outlet and check the voltage.
A wire is connected to the socket phase, the second side of which is attached to the input of the switch. A wire directly connected to the lamp is attached to the output of the unit to turn off the light.
A wire is attached to the zero contact of the socket, the second end of which is connected to the output of the lamp. In the same way, the protective wire is connected, only to the corresponding contact of the lamp.
After completing these manipulations, you should lay the wires, insulate the current-conducting sections and apply voltage to check the efficiency of the work.
Illuminated switches have begun to be especially popular at this stage of time; when installing them, it is advisable to turn to a professional, since improper connection of such switches can refuse an increased load on the wiring, as a result of which it will undergo combustion.
In the absence of basic skills in electrics, it is worth abandoning even self installation switches containing one key.
Some photos of the switch can be found below.
Photo of the process of connecting the switch
Electrical wiring of any room, whether it is a huge Vacation home or a small outbuilding (basement, garage, country house), includes the main three elements - a switch, a socket and a light bulb. As long as they remain relevant always and everywhere. When repairing, building or redevelopment, you will definitely encounter them. Therefore, elementary knowledge of electrical engineering will not be superfluous - what is the connection diagram of the switch and socket, how does it work and what materials and tools will be required for its installation?
Below are the detailed step by step instructions, under the guidance of which the installation of sockets and switches with their own hands will be possible even for a not very experienced electrician.
What is needed to switch the circuit?
Electrical wiring can be open and hidden. In this article, we will consider the connection of sockets and switches, made according to the second option, when all electrical switching is hidden under a layer of plaster. Hidden execution is the most common type of wiring, open wiring is usually used as a temporary option.
Wall preparation
Before you connect the socket and switch in the room, you need to prepare holes in the wall for their installation and strobes in which the wires will be laid. There should be three holes in total - for the junction box and for the connected switching devices.
It is better to draw an approximate drawing on a piece of paper in advance, where exactly you plan to connect the switch and socket, and along what route the wires will be laid to these places.
The hole for the junction box is made, as a rule, under the ceiling, 10-15 cm lower. The holes for the switching devices are made at the place of their planned installation. It is better to mount the socket at a distance of 30 cm from the clean floor, where it will be connected to Appliances. It is advisable to install the switch at the entrance to the room at the level of the lowered hand of an adult - about 90 cm from the finished floor. These works are carried out with an electric drill with a special crown for brick or concrete, a perforator with a drill bit, impact drill or Bulgarian angle grinder.
When installing strobes, consider a few important rules:
- They can only be horizontal or vertical, no tilt is allowed.
- The entire path of the strobe from the junction box to the installation sites of the socket and switch must pass with a minimum number of turns.
- Vertical strobes should not be brought closer to window and doorways less than 10 cm, and gas pipes- less than 40 cm.
For mounting the strobe, you can use a hammer and a chisel, a puncher, a grinder or a special tool with a strobe cutter.
When all the holes and strobes are ready, carefully clean them of dust with a vacuum cleaner.
Installation elements and tool
To perform the electrical part of the work, you will need the following materials and tools:
- distribution (junction) box, in which all wires are connected;
- two plastic or polypropylene mounting boxes(sockets), they are needed in order to securely fix the switching devices in the wall holes;
- indoor outlet;
- indoor switch with one key;
- lighting device;
- a set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
- knife or stripper for stripping insulation from cores;
- pliers with insulated handles;
- clamps or electrical tape;
- indicator screwdriver.
To switch the entire electrical circuit, you still need a two-wire wire. Now available in electrical stores huge assortment wires and cables, so take one right away so that each core has its own color insulation, for example, red and blue. This will make it easier to switch the circuit, you won’t have to look for phase and zero with devices, you just need to connect wires of the same color.
In order to fix the wires laid in the strobes, you will also need alabaster and a spatula.
Wiring diagram
The electrical circuit is a parallel connection to the power source of a lighting fixture with a light bulb, a switch and a socket.
Preparatory work
Before starting any electrical work, secure your work area. Turn off the introductory machine to the apartment. Well, if it is already at the entrance to the apartment, that is, you will be sure that by turning it off, no one will be able to turn the machine back on. In case when automatic device located on the landing in the general shield, turn off the machine in your apartment and hang a poster "Do not turn on!" or put someone to control. You can't joke with electricity!
After turning off the machine, you must once again make sure that there is no voltage, now with the help of an indicator screwdriver. To begin with, check its working condition in a section that is obviously energized, for example, at the entrance to the machine. The indicator lights up after touching the phase, which means it is in good condition. Now touch the indicator screwdriver to the cores of the supply wire, which is brought into the apartment from the machine, there should be no glow. So the stress is off and you can get to work.
Lay the wires in the strobes made, leading them to the wall holes. At the same time, leave the ends 10-15 cm for cutting the cores, do not regret it, it is better to make a slightly larger margin than to suffer later when connecting and connecting. Install the junction box and socket boxes in the holes, use gypsum or alabaster to securely fix them.
Electric installation work
Run a two-core cable from the mains (phase and zero) into the junction box. Three wires should be laid from the box: one to the switch, the second to the lamp, the third to the socket.
For a wire whose cores have a different color version of the insulation, the red color indicates the phase, Blue colour- zero.
The switch has an input and output contact, a phase conductor is connected at the input. Connect the second core to the output contact of the switch.
A two-wire wire must also be laid to the lamp. There are two contacts in the lamp socket. The central spring contact (phase) serves to directly supply voltage to the light bulb. The side contact in the cartridge is zero, the lamp will come into contact with it after screwing it in with its base.
Another two-wire wire is laid from the junction box to the outlet. This switching device has a contact part, consisting of two terminals, to which phase and zero are connected.
The connection diagram of the switch, lamp and socket in the junction box is as follows:
- Connect the neutral conductor from the supply wire to the zero conductors going to the lamp and the socket.
- Connect the phase conductor from the supply wire to the phase conductors going to the switch and socket.
- Connect the remaining wire from the output contact of the switch to the phase wire of the lamp.
All connections must be made as firmly as possible to ensure reliable contact. This can be done in the old-fashioned way - by twisting, which is still desirable to solder from above. There are also more modern devices: special pads (in which the wire is clamped under the screw) or PPE (connecting insulating clamps).
For more information about connecting wires in a junction box, see this video:
Checking the scheme and completing the work
Dissolve all twists in different sides so that they do not touch each other and check the work assembled circuit. Turn on the introductory machine to the apartment, thereby supplying voltage from the power source to the newly mounted junction box. The switch is in the “off” position, the lamp is off, which means that everything is correct, the phase is open. Now press the switch key to the “on” position, the electrical circuit closes and voltage is already supplied from the power source to the lamp through it, the light bulb lights up. The voltage will be constantly present at the outlet, you can check its operation by connecting any household appliance. Insert the plug of a hair dryer, radio or electric kettle into the socket and check its operation.
Now turn off the introductory machine again and securely insulate the places of twists with electrical tape, you can still put PVC tubes on top. Carefully lay all the connected wires in the box so that it then closes with a lid.
It remains only to securely place the switch and the socket in the sockets, fix it, put on the protective covers on top. The junction box is also closed with a lid, for any repair work never hide it under wallpaper or plaster. Remember, the junction box must always be accessible, no matter how spoiled it is. general form your room.
Very important! Before connecting the switch, make sure that you connect exactly the phase conductor to its input contact, do not confuse it with zero. The switching device must only work on a phase break. Otherwise, there will always be voltage present in the lamp socket, even when the switch is in the off position. And this causes the danger of getting under voltage during an elementary replacement of a burned-out light bulb.
Also keep in mind that if the lighting fixture and the socket are structurally grounded, then a three-wire wire will be required for their electrical circuit. The same wire of three cores should also come to the junction box from the power source. The ground wire is usually marked green or yellow, in the same way, in the box it will be necessary to connect three protective ground wires into one twist - from the power source, socket and lamp.
Other scheme options
Similarly, you can connect an outlet from one power source, two-gang switch and two groups of lighting fixtures. In this case, two wires from two output contacts of the switch and two phase conductors from lamps will come to the junction box. The same as in the example described above, only there will be one more twist in the box.
If you need to install a three-gang switch and three groups of lamps, respectively, three wires from the three output contacts of the switch and three phase conductors from the lighting devices will come to the junction box. In total, there will be 5 twists in the box:
- Zero supply network with zero conductors of the socket and lamp.
- Mains phase with phase conductors of the socket and switch.
- And three twists of phase wires extending from each switch key and a group of lamps.
In case of protective earth add another twist. Sometimes it can be quite problematic to lay twisted wires in a junction box. Now on the market for electrical goods, you can choose options specifically designed to accommodate a large number of wires and cables.
This is how it is easy to connect a socket and a switch from one junction box. The main thing is to try to understand this very simple scheme. And then all further electrical circuits will be clear to you. As a result, you will get a pretty decent cost savings on calling a professional electrician.
First of all, before choosing and buying, you need to decide what it is - a pass-through switch, what it is for, and how it differs from the usual one, two and three-gang ones.
A single-button walk-through switch is required to control one circuit or lighting line from several points located in different parts room or the whole house. That is, with one switch you turn on the lighting when you enter a room or corridor, and with another, but at a different point, you turn off the same lighting.
This is often used in bedrooms. I went into the bedroom, turned on the light near the door. He lay down on the bed and turned off the light at the head or near the bedside table.
In two-story mansions - he turned on the light bulb on the first floor, climbed the stairs to the second and turned it off there. 
Selection, design and differences of walk-through switches
Before assembling such a control scheme, here are some things to pay special attention to:
1 To connect a light switch through, you need three-core cable - VVGng-Ls 3 * 1.5 or NYM 3 * 1.5mm2
2 Do not try to assemble a similar circuit on ordinary switches. The main difference between conventional and pass-through is the number of contacts. Simple single-key have two terminals for connecting wires (input and output), and pass-through - three! 
On simple, the lighting circuit can be either closed or open, there is no third.
The checkpoint is more correctly called not a switch, but a switch.
Since he, it switches the circuit from one working contact to another.
In appearance, from the front they can be exactly the same. Only on the pass-through key can there be an icon of vertical triangles. However, do not confuse them with flip or cross (more on them below). These triangles look in the horizontal direction. 
But on the reverse side, you can immediately see the whole difference:
- the feedthrough has 1 terminal at the top and 2 at the bottom
- normal 1 top and 1 bottom
Many in this parameter confuse them with two-key ones. However, two-key ones will also not work here, although they also have three terminals. 
There is a significant difference in the work of contacts. When one contact is closed, the pass-through switches automatically close the other, but there is no such function in two-button switches. 
Moreover, the intermediate position, when both circuits are open, does not exist at the checkpoint at all.
Connecting a pass switch
First of all, it is necessary to correctly connect the switch itself in the socket. Remove the key and overlay frames. 
When disassembled, you can easily see the three contact terminals. 
The most important thing is to find common ones. On quality products, a diagram should be drawn on the reverse side. If you understand them, then you can easily navigate through it. 
If you have a budget model, or any electrical circuits for you dark forest, then an ordinary Chinese tester in the continuity mode, or an indicator screwdriver with a battery, will come to the rescue.
Using the probes of the tester, alternately touch all the contacts and look for the one on which the tester will "beep" or show "0" at any position of the ON or OFF key. It is even easier to do this with an indicator screwdriver. 
After you have found a common terminal, you need to connect the phase from the power cable to it. Attach the remaining two wires to the remaining terminals.
And which one goes where, does not make a significant difference. The switch is assembled and fixed in the socket. 
With the second switch, do the same operation:
- looking for a common thread
- connect a phase conductor to it, which will go to the light bulb
- connect two other wires to the remaining ones
Scheme of connecting the wires of the pass-through switch in the junction box
Circuit without ground conductor
Now the most important thing is to correctly assemble the circuit in the junction box. Four 3-core cables should go into it:
- power cable from the switchboard lighting machine
- cable to switch #1
- cable to switch #2
- cable for lamp or chandelier
When connecting wires, it is most convenient to orient by color. If you use a three-wire VVG cable, then it has the most common two color markings:
- white (gray) - phase
- blue - zero
- yellow green - earth
or the second option:
- White gray)
- brown
- black
To choose a more correct phasing in the second case, refer to the tips from the article "" 
Connect the zero core from the cable of the introductory machine and the zero that goes to the lamp at one point through the car terminals. 
Similarly to the neutral wires, you combine the "ground" from the input cable with the "ground" of the outgoing cable for lighting. 
This wire is connected to the body of the lamp. 
The phase from the input cable must be connected to the phase of the outgoing wire to the common terminal of the feed-through switch No. 1. 
And connect the common wire from the feed-through switch No. 2 with a separate wago clamp to the phase conductor of the cable for lighting. 
Having completed all these connections, it remains only to connect the secondary (outgoing) cores from the switch No. 1 and No. 2 to each other. It doesn't really matter how you connect them. 
You can even mix up the colors. But it is better to stick to the colors, so as not to get confused in the future.
The basic connection rules in this scheme that you need to remember:
- the phase from the machine must come to the common conductor of the first switch
- and the same phase should go from the common conductor of the second switch to the light bulb
- the other two auxiliary conductors are interconnected in the junction box
- zero and earth are fed directly without switches directly to the light bulbs
Toggle switches - lighting control scheme from 3 places
But what if you want to control one lighting from three or more points. That is, there will be 3, 4 switches in the circuit, etc. It would seem that you need to take another pass-through switch and that's it.
However, a switch with three terminals is no longer suitable here. Since there will be four connected wires in the junction box.
Here, a toggle switch, or as it is also called a cross, cross, intermediate switch, will come to your aid. Its key difference is that it has four exits - two from below and two from above. 
And it is installed just the same in the interval between the two checkpoints. Find two secondary (not main) wires from the first and second pass-through switch in the junction box.
Disconnect them, and connect a crossover between them. Connect those wires that come from the first one - to the input (follow the arrows), and those that go to the second one - to the output terminals. 
Always check the circuit on the switches! It often happens that their entrance and exit is on the same side (top and bottom). For example, the wiring diagram for the changeover Legrand Valena: 
Naturally, you don’t need to stuff the flip-over into the junction box. It is enough to bring the ends of a 4-core cable from it there. And in the meantime, place the switch in any convenient place - near the bed, in the middle long corridor etc. You can turn the light on and off from anywhere. 
The most important advantage of this scheme is that it can be changed indefinitely and add as many toggle switches as you like. That is, there will always be two walk-throughs (at the beginning and at the end), and in the interval between them there will be 4, 5 or at least 10 changeovers. 
Connection errors
Many at the stage of searching and connecting a common terminal in pass-through switch make a mistake. Without checking the circuit, they naively believe that the common terminal is the one with only one contact.
They assemble the circuit in this way, and then the switches for some reason do not work correctly (they depend on each other).
Remember that on different switches, the common contact can be anywhere!
And it is best to call it, what is called "live", with a tester or an indicator screwdriver. 
Most often, such a problem is encountered when installing or replacing pass-through switches from different companies. If everything worked before, and after replacing one, the circuit stopped working, then the wires were mixed up.
But it may also be an option that the new switch is not a pass-through at all. Also remember that the backlight inside the product can in no way affect the switching principle itself.
Another common mistake is incorrect connection of crossovers. When both wires, from the passage No. 1 are put on the upper contacts, and from No. 2 to the lower ones. Meanwhile, the circuit and switching mechanism of the cross switch is completely different. And you need to connect the wires crosswise. 
Flaws
1 The first of the shortcomings of walk-through switches is the lack of a specific position of the ON / OFF key, which is in the usual ones.
If your light bulb has burned out and needs to be replaced, with this scheme it is not immediately possible to understand whether the light is on or off.
It will be unpleasant when, when replacing, the lamp can simply explode before your eyes. In this case, the simplest reliable way turn off the lighting in the dashboard.
2 The second disadvantage is a large number of connections in junction boxes.
And the more light points you have, the more of them will be in the junction boxes. Connecting the cable directly according to diagrams without junction boxes reduces the number of connections, but at times can increase either the cable consumption or the number of its cores.
If your wiring goes under the ceiling, then you will have to lower the wire from there to each switch, and then lift it back up. The best option here is the use of impulse relays.
It is difficult to even imagine human existence now without lighting, and, accordingly, without switches that operate this lighting. The child, having learned to walk and reach for the switch, clicks it continuously, surprised at the appearance of light, as if by some kind of magic or miracle. But we, adults, know perfectly well that the laws of physics and electrical engineering are the basis of such magic. Based on this knowledge, we will take a closer look at the switch, its main function, varieties and design, and also talk about how to connect a light switch.
main function
A light switch is a switching device with which a person controls the lighting in a room. This device performs two operations - closes the electrical circuit, due to which the lamp lamp is turned on, and opens it, the lamp goes out.
Unlike its high-voltage counterparts, the light switch is designed to operate in lighting networks with voltage up to 1000 V. It is controlled manually, it is not protected from currents short circuit and overload. There are no arc chutes on it, as on high-voltage equipment, so a conventional household appliance is designed for small current loads.
The single-key switch circuit is the most famous and common for connecting lighting elements.
But now more and more design solutions imply installation in residential premises of a complex configuration of rooms, multi-level ceilings and a group lighting system. Here it will no longer be possible to simply connect a single-key light switch, more complex models will be needed. For example:
- A two-key switch will be much more convenient to use if the room has a zonal division, when brighter lighting is needed in its working part, and subdued light is allowed in the rest part. Such devices are also used in living rooms, where large carob chandeliers for several lamps are mounted.
- The switch is three-gang, combined with a socket. Such a device is convenient to install when there is a corridor, a bathroom and a toilet nearby. The connection diagram of the light switch in this design implies the supply of voltage by each key to private room, and the socket is useful in order to use a hair dryer or an electric shaver.
- Illuminated switch. A wonderful option for any room. Going into dark room, you do not have to shuffle your hands along the wall in search of a switch, a luminous beacon will indicate its location.
There will be a separate, more detailed discussion about how to install these switching devices and how to connect them correctly. However, we advise you to start getting acquainted with the device, the principle of operation and the connection diagram using the example of single-gang switches.
Varieties
Despite all the elementary nature, the one-button light switch under consideration has several varieties, depending on the design.
Take note! If necessary, an outdoor switch can be used as a temporary option so as not to start with a large-scale repair of electrical wiring and avoid unnecessary financial costs.
If you need to install the lamp in a room where there is a high degree of humidity and the possibility of water ingress is not ruled out, then no the best option how to connect a light bulb through a waterproof switch. Most often, this option is used for swimming pools, baths, saunas, car washes. The sealed body of the device, combined with high-quality seals, will also protect against dust. Therefore, through moisture-proof switches, lighting devices can be safely connected in workshops and on construction sites With high content dust and dirt.
What else I would like to note is the external variety of switches on modern market electrical goods. You can choose a classic or some interesting unusual design absolutely any color. Therefore, before you connect a switch in the room, think carefully about the future appearance rooms, so that even such a trifle as a switching device harmonizes with the overall interior.
Device and principle of operation
To properly connect the switch, it will not be superfluous to first familiarize yourself with its device. It is equipped with the following main elements:
Working part. The most important element is the drive on which the key is attached. It is mounted on a metal frame. To fix this whole structure in the socket, there is a pair of sliding legs. Also, the working part contains contacts to which it is necessary to connect electrical wires.
Protective plastic elements. A key that is attached directly to the working mechanism and carries out the on-off process. A frame made of a dielectric material protects a person from contact with a working part that is energized. It is attached to the mechanism with screws or plastic latches.
Connecting a lighting bulb through a single-gang switch is very simple. In the working part of the device there is a contact group consisting of a movable and a fixed contact. A wire from the power source is connected to the movable contact, a key is directly put on it. A wire going to the lamp is attached to the fixed contact. When the key is pressed, the moving contact can be in one of two positions:
- Included. It closes the electrical circuit, the phase from the mains is supplied to the lighting device and the light bulb lights up.
- Disabled. Electrical circuit is open, the phase is not supplied to the lamp and the lamp does not light.
Necessary tools and materials
Before connecting the light switch, wiring must be done in the room electrical wires and a place (hole) in the wall has been prepared, where the switching device will be directly mounted. If this is not the case, first you will have to make strobes in the wall (for laying the electrical wire) and mount the junction box (wire connections will be made in it). To do this, stock up on the following materials and tools:
- Putty or alabaster.
- Perforator and grinder with a circle on concrete.
- Spatula and a container for mixing the solution.
There is a slightly easier option - to find the nearest installed junction box in the room and connect the wires in it.
Keep in mind! Junction boxes are always mounted under the ceiling (at a distance of 10-30 cm from it), so you will definitely need a stepladder for work.
To make an elementary installation yourself, and then check how correctly the circuit for connecting the switch to the light bulb is, you will need the following materials and tools:
- The switch with one key of internal execution.
- Polypropylene or plastic socket box (mounting box).
- Lamp for one bulb.
- Insulating tape.
- Screwdriver with voltage indication.
- Knife for stripping the insulating layer on the wires.
Connection
About the most important condition when performing any electrical work, we will remind you in almost every article. Before starting work, turn off the introductory machine.
- As mentioned above, important element in the chain "switch-bulb" is a junction box. First of all, lay the wire to the box from the power source (shield).
- From the junction box you should have two wires - one to the switch, the second to the lamp socket. It is very convenient to use a wire with cores that have insulation of different colors. For example, a red core will mean "phase", blue - "zero".
- Before connecting the wires to each other, cut all their ends and strip the wires. In the junction box, it is necessary to strip the wires by 3-4 cm, in order to then make a reliable twist, in the switch and the cartridge for connecting to the contacts, it will be enough to strip by 5-8 mm.
- There are two contacts in the lamp socket, connect the phase wire to one of them, and zero to the second.
- Connect two strands of the wire suitable for the switch to the moving and fixed contacts respectively.
- Fix the frame and the switch key, and also assemble the ceiling of the lighting fixture.
- And now the most important thing is to connect the wires together in the junction box (experienced electricians say “turn off” in their jargon). Here you will need utmost care, do not confuse anything, you should end up with three twists as a result. Connect the neutral wire coming from the mains to the neutral wire leading to the lighting fixture. Connect the phase wire from the mains to the wire going to the movable contact of the switch. One pair remains - this is the core, which is connected to the fixed contact in the switch, and the phase core of the lamp, connect them together.
- Make secure twists (for better contact you can also solder these places), insulate from above with a special tape and put on PVC tubes. Carefully arrange all this in the junction box, and close it with a lid.
- Turn on the introductory machine and test the switch in action.
Very important! When connecting the switch core to the mains, do not confuse the phase wire with the neutral one. Remember, the switching device should only break the "phase". Otherwise, when replacing lamps in a lighting fixture, you may get energized.
Video
Now you know how to connect a one-button switch. You can, of course, invite electricians for this business. But in the case of this particular device, there is nothing complicated, and the result made by oneself is always doubly pleasing.
During overhaul or the construction of an object, you need to think in advance about where the lighting fixtures and switches will be located. If you have already decided on their location, then it's time to think about how to put it all together and make it work correctly and properly for many years.
- Installation and connection of electrical installation devices, that is, and, is carried out only when the mains is turned off.
- The electrical wire is laid only in a straight line, both in horizontal and vertical directions.
- If the building is wooden, then it is laid on top of the wall. Direct contact of the electrical wire and the wall surface is not allowed. It is wound up either in, or mounted on special insulators, which are made of non-conductive materials.
- In stone buildings, brick, panel, monolithic houses, electrical wiring is laid under the plaster.
The electrical wire consists of current-carrying conductors and a sheath. There can be two or more lived in an electric wire. Usually use two and three-core. One of the cores serves to create a continuous network. No voltage is applied to it. It is called the empty or zero phase. The remaining cores are called working phases or cores. She or they supply electricity to electrical appliances.
Tools and materials for installation
What materials and tools do we need to install and connect the switch to the light bulb?
- Switch.
- Electric wire. In our case, it does not matter which electrical wire will be used, copper or aluminum. But, if the entire electrical network of an apartment or house is made of copper wire, then you need to put copper. If aluminum, then aluminum.
- distribution boxes. They are used for laying electrical connections. Don't be afraid to bet. When using boxes, the probability of breaking the integrity of the connections is reduced, which means that the risk of a short circuit is reduced.
- . We will need it to determine in the electrical wire, to check the presence of current in the network.
- Wire cutters. They will be needed to cut the wire.
- Pliers. With their help, stronger twists of wires are made.
- Insulating tape and gray. Wire connections, bare ends must be insulated. They are wrapped with electrical tape, then put on a PPE connection. It is a cap and ensures a secure connection.
- fastening element. When working on wooden surfaces, you will need clamps. With their help, the corrugation is attached to the wall. When installing the wire on a stone surface, you will need clips, clamps, self-tapping screws, dowels. But the most reliable fastener is still considered to be a strip cut from an aluminum can with a nail in the middle.
- Socket box. Represents steel or made of polymer materials glass-shaped device. A socket box is designed for installing a switch or socket.
- Perforator. It will be needed in order to open the plaster, in other words, to pierce, to make holes. If the switch is placed in a new place or for the first time, then you will also need a cutter the size of the bottom of the socket. With its help, a hole is made in the wall, into which a socket is then placed.
We determine the type of switch we need
The design of the switch is a housing in which a block with current-receiving elements and an interrupting device are installed. The most commonly used key interrupt device. There can be one or more keys in the switch. Basically, one and two key switches are used.
There are several types of switches:
- Key switches
- . They are exactly the same as the keyboards.
- Touch
- Pulse
- and impulse switches
There is no need to describe each device separately. Since their installation does not have fundamental differences from the installation of a single-gang switch. We need it to connect the light bulb. Let's go back to its design.
The block of such a switch is equipped with two contacts and one interrupt key. The design may include a mechanism for fixing the block in the socket. Usually it consists of two metal petals, the position of which is adjusted with screws. In the free position, the petals are lowered, in the open position they rest against the walls of the box.
Explanation of wiring diagram for easier understanding
Let us describe the connection diagram of a switch operating with one lighting fixture, in our case with a light bulb. I must say that the switch is always placed on the working core, phase. That is, it interrupts the supply of electricity to the light bulb. Leaving it under constant load is dangerous.
The wires of the general apartment electrical network, the wires coming from the switch and the wires that come from the bulb's electric cartridge are brought into the junction box. One of the wires of the cartridge is connected to the neutral conductor of the general electrical network, the second to the residential wire coming from the switch. The second core of the switch wire is connected to the working phase of the general electrical network. Thus, the working conductor of the cartridge is connected to the working residential electrical network through a switch. When the switch is turned on, the load is applied to the light bulb, when it is turned off, it is interrupted.
Marking the places of installation of electrical appliances
Before the beginning installation work you need to mark how the switch will be located, the electrical wire on the wall, ceiling, where the light bulb will be installed. Perhaps it will not stand on the ceiling, but on one of the walls. The switch is placed near the door leading to the room, at a distance of about 30 cm. If the room is a walk-through, then near the doorway leading to the adjacent room, at a distance of about 25 - 30 cm. The switch can be installed at a height from the floor, starting from 30 cm and up to 1.6m.
If we mount an additional light bulb on the wall, then the switch is placed at the level of the sockets. After we have marked the location of the switch, we draw a straight line up to the ceiling. In this place you will need to put a junction box. Mark the center of the room on the ceiling. A block will be installed here, on which a wire with an electric cartridge is installed. From it we draw a straight line to the wall with a switch.
We lead another line along the wall to the place where the junction box will stand. By the way, at the junction of the wires running along the wall and along the ceiling, you also need to install a junction box. Then we measure the length of the wire, cut the segments and proceed to installation.
We carry out the installation of the switch with our own hands
Installation begins with the installation of the switch. If we mount it on wooden surface, then first a plate is placed, made of a material that does not conduct electricity, for example, plastic or well-dried wood. Then the junction box is installed. Then we connect the wire to the switch, we wind it into the corrugation and fasten it to the wall.
On the ceiling we install a special block that has two current-receiving contacts. It is also installed on the plate. In the future, a wire with a light bulb will be connected to this block. A piece of wire intended for the ceiling is wound into a corrugation and led to a wall with a switch. On the wall we start it in a separate junction box. We take another piece of wire, enclose it in a corrugation and lead to the main junction box. Naturally, we fasten all segments with the wall and ceiling.
Then we connect a wire with an electric cartridge and a light bulb to the block on the ceiling. Typically, these pads are equipped with a screw connection. The end of the bare wire can be inserted into the terminal and then pressed with a bolt. It can also be connected directly with a bolt, that is, the ends of the wires are wound around the bolt and pressed against it. Next, twist the ends of the wires in the first junction box. For a tighter twist, you can use pliers.
We carefully isolate the twists and cover with sizami. Then we turn off the power supply and open the ends of the common electrical network. We turn on the electricity again. We find with the help of an electric indicator screwdriver the zero phase of the common network. When touching the working core, the screwdriver indicator lights up. When touching zero - no. We mark the zero phase and turn off the electricity.
Connection of wires in the junction box
We put all the ends into the junction box, that is, the wires of the general network, the wires of the switch and the wires of the light bulb. . One end of the wire from the light bulb is connected to the neutral core of the common network, the second - to one of the ends of the switch wire. The remaining free end of the switch wire is connected to the working core of the general network.
We twist all connections tightly with pliers and isolate with electrical tape. On top of the connections we put on the siz. We connect electricity. Turn on, check. If the light comes on, close the boxes and use. If not, check connections. We will talk about possible malfunctions a little lower.
Features of installing wires under plaster
Mounting a circuit breaker in a stone building has some differences from mounting in wooden house. Electrical wiring in such buildings is laid under the plaster. If the switch is mounted on a plastered wall, then it is ditched, that is, with the help of a perforator, a channel is laid in the plaster for laying the wire and installing the socket box. The plaster is removed before stone wall. All other steps for installation on a plastered wall are exactly the same as on a non-plastered wall.
Laying electricians in concrete walls without plaster
If the installation is carried out on a bare, non-plastered wall, then first, using a puncher equipped with a cutter, a recess is made for installing the socket box. It is fastened in this recess with dowels or alabaster. The wire is attached to the wall using clamps, clips, or using the homemade fasteners described above. Fasteners do not need to be sorry. You need to put it at a distance of no more than 20 cm from each other. Junction boxes are also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels.
Gutters in slabs - electrician's assistants
Floor slabs in stone houses have gutters inside. The electrical wire to the light bulb placed on the ceiling goes along one of these gutters. To do this, two holes are punched using a perforator. One is at the point where the wire enters the slab. The other is in the place where the block for mounting the cartridge and light bulb will be located. The block, to which the electric cartridge with the bulb will be attached, is placed on the plate.
If the plate is wooden, then it is simply glued to the surface of the ceiling. If it is made of other materials, then it is either glued or fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The case is removed from the switch, connected to the wire and fixed in the socket. To do this, there is a mounting mechanism on the switch block. The bolts in the mechanism are tightened so that the switch stands firmly in the socket and does not swing.
Then twist all connections, isolate them. Then they mark the zero core of the common network and turn off the electricity. Next, connect the switch and the light bulb to the common network according to the above scheme. The zero core of the working network is connected to the zero phase of the light bulb. The ends of the wire of the switch are connected to a working residential common network and from a working residential light bulb. Carefully isolate and turn on electricity. Turn on the switch and check. Lights up, you can use it. No, we're checking connections. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are plastered.
Before the beginning plastering works the switch is removed. Put it finally after finishing the surface of the wall. At the time of its implementation, the bare ends are isolated. And the socket is closed with something.
Installing a light bulb on the wall
The installation of a switch for a light bulb mounted on a wall does not fundamentally differ from the installation described above. If there is no installed junction box and wire on the wall, then you will have to pull it from the common junction box. And the wiring diagram is the same. We put the box, we start the wires from the common network, the switch and the wall device into it, we connect the light bulb to the zero residential common network, the switch from the working residential light bulb and the common network. After the installation is completed, the corrugation in which the wire is laid should be closed with a decorative box.
Possible malfunctions
If after installation the light does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are badly twisted. You need to check the connections. For this, there is no need to check each. You need to start with the wires included in the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check whether electricity is supplied to the switch. Touch the screwdriver to the ends of the wire entering the switch in turn. If the indicator is off, then there is a problem with the connection to the public network.
Once again, we twist the wires connecting the working phases of the switch and the general network, having previously turned off the electricity. Let's check again. If the current is supplied, and the light is still off, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest of the electrical circuit.
If the switch is working, then the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator lights up only on one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. It is better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not work for a long time. If the switch is OK, check each connection until we find the fault.
Detailed explanation in video format
