How to lay paths in the country with tiles. paving slabs for paving slabs

Graceful and kind garden path, leading deep into the garden or to the porch, serves as a real decoration or country house, calling card hosts. Yes, and admiring a beautiful flower bed or just walking along the paved surface to the bath is always more pleasant than walking on bare ground, especially after rain.

Therefore, the garden path has become an invariable attribute of a modern private home.

If you haven't made your choice yet garden path, then you can familiarize yourself with examples and tips on traditional laying materials, and paths from improvised materials are considered.

One of the popular materials for laying a garden path is pavers (paving slabs) which has many advantages. First of all, unlike or clinker, it is inexpensive, and its consumer properties are very high.

• In particular, paving stones are very aesthetic, original and attractive, much more beautiful than the same asphalt or concrete.
• She has many shades.
• It is important that paving slabs are strong and durable, with a long service life.
• Paving stones are not afraid of heat, fading and frost, resistant to moisture, as well as to abrasion and mechanical damage.
• It is versatile and goes very well with different styles landscape.
• As a rule, paving stones have rectangular shape, this is the most convenient option for paving.

Although there are more bizarre, curly or wavy tile shapes. Thanks to this, it is possible to pave a smooth path of strict geometry or an arcuate winding path, a round platform, etc.

They lay paving slabs in a “column”, “herringbone”, “round”, “brick dressing”, “scales”, “fan”, etc. - there are many such paving methods and, if desired, any pattern or ornament, even the most fantastic, can be laid out of paving stones . You can see many ideas and examples at the end of the article.

Let's now take a closer look at paving stone laying technology as an ordinary pedestrian garden path.

Preparatory stage

To start think over the scheme of paving: transfer the sketch of your track to graph paper, mark all the places for laying the paving stones. Then divide the planned area of ​​​​the garden path in sq.m. on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone stone, taking into account tile joints of 0.5 cm - this is how you calculate the number of tiles. Round off all data to whole numbers. To the result, add 5-10% of the safety stock for culling. You should be aware that with a circular or diagonal paving, tiles go more than with a conventional parallel one.

Make a layout of the site, using twine and pegs, driving them in at a distance of 1-1.5 m. Try to pull the string well and set it strictly according to the height of the future paving stones.

The finish, paved surface of the path should be at least level with the ground, and much better - a few centimeters above the horizon of the lawn or soil. Otherwise, rainwater may accumulate on the alley.

The distance between the threads should be the same everywhere. The optimal width of the footpath is usually 0.7-1.0 m, but this is up to you. This also needs to include the dimensions of the borders on both sides. In general, choose the width of the path so that the paving slabs are placed in it without trimming - it will come out much more economically.

trench digging

The depth of the pit for calculating the excavation includes: geotextile and a layer of gravel or gravel (5-15 cm), a layer of sand (about 5-10 cm), a special cement-sand mixture (3-5 cm), and the height of the tile itself ( 5-8 cm). If the soil is dense, not loose, then it is permissible to take one sand per 10-20 cm without gravel as a “cushion” for backfilling.

Do not forget that the tile should rise at least a little above ground level. When digging, remove all debris, stones and roots from the ground, fill with earth any holes or holes. Then carefully level, moisten and tamp the bottom of the earth base.

Curb installation

In this case, it is more appropriate to put the edging of the garden path immediately than at the end of the work, so as not to "meddle" with the temporary formwork from the boards. As a side, you can use a special purchased border, choose paving stones (or clinker) of a slightly different size or shade, or, for example, put it on edge. But in any case, the border should be combined with the tiles.

The border is placed differently. For example, if it is a purchased sidewalk curb up to 30 cm high, then you can deepen the bottom of the trench a little more on the sides by digging 2 grooves there. Their depth depends on the size of the edging. Then fill the grooves with gravel for 5-8 cm and moisten and tamp everything. You can pour under the curb and just sand, but gravel is more reliable.

On top, apply a regular liquid cement mortar with a trowel. Cement for the curb is taken not lower than the M150 grade. Then lay the curb so that the height of the side is flush or slightly lower (- 0.5 cm) from the level of the future tile, otherwise moisture will be forced on the path. It is very important!

All curb stones should be at the same level and fit snugly one to another, for which, during the laying process, trim them with a rubber mallet and check with a cord and a level. In this case, the solution can be added as the side is laid. After installing the side, wait at least a day for the composition to “seize”.

gravel and sand cushion

Lay a geotextile at the bottom of the pit, which will protect the path from. Pour a gravel cushion, then sand. All layers must be carefully leveled and compacted, for example, with a vibrating plate.

By the way, the following sequence of operations is very convenient. They dig a trench across the entire width, taking into account the height of the curbs without deepening two grooves at the bottom, cover the geotextiles, fill up everywhere and level the gravel at the same level. Then, on the sides, a curb is placed on the mortar from above along the gravel, and after it has set, a sand cushion is poured into the pit, and proceed to the next stage.

Already before laying the tiles, carefully moisten the sand and let it dry for a couple of hours.

Note: if you plan to move or park a car along the path, the “pie” scheme will be slightly different. Sand is first laid on the bottom, then gravel, and another reinforcing reinforced concrete layer of 12-15 cm with expansion joints and drainage holes is poured on top of the substrate, and only then does the dry mix and the tile itself go.

Cement-sand mixture

While the sand dries, you can prepare a special dry mix. For it, take clean or well-sifted finely fractionated sand and mix it with M400 cement (1: 6-1: 7). Pour sand into the container, then cement, and then mix everything thoroughly.

Make sure that the “cushion” sand is already dry and pour the mixture onto the prepared base, and a little more than the planned height, as the mixture will shrink after pressing. Make an initial rammer by pressing the mixture firmly against the backfill.

Be sure to level the mixture on top: “pull off” using a rule or a regular board with edges cut into the letter “G”. It is appropriate to use a cemented curb as guide beacons. Or, if the path is wide, lay two lighthouse pipes (d 1-2 cm) tightly on top of the mixture and level the composition along them. The pipes are then removed, the grooves are filled with a mixture. The width of the rule should be slightly larger than the “step” of the curb or guide pipes.

As a result, the thickness of the mixture layer should be 3-5 cm and so that from the bottom of its plane to the top of the stretched cord, the height of the future paving stone remains minus 1 cm for shrinkage of the tile.

paving tiles

Now start laying tiles on a dry mix. Do it as tightly as possible and according to a pre-designed pattern. Lay the paving stones on top of the curb and to the bottom of the edge where a small slope is directed to drain water. Focus on stretched cords (if necessary, you can put additional twine on each row). If necessary, trim the tile with a rubber mallet and constantly check the level of the horizontal laying.

Between the tiles, leave small neat damper gaps of an average of 0.5 cm for thermal expansion.

Then the paving stones can be pushed again with a rubber vibrating plate or tapped with a mallet on the edge of the board, installed flat, so that the bricks stand up on the stretched twine.

To fit the tiles, use a grinder with a “diamond” disc for cutting concrete or stone. Cropping can be especially useful if you need to design a round or curly area, for example, around a pond or other object.

The final stage of laying the track

After laying the tiles, sprinkle the joints with the remaining cement-sand mixture or clean fine sand. The mixture or sand can simply be rubbed into the seams with a hard, fleecy mop or pressed down from above with a tamping tool.

Finally, rinse the track. It is advisable not to walk on it for 3-4 days, so that the bedding and the mixture gain strength.

Everything, this work is completed! Now you have an elegant and practical garden path made of paving slabs , which for many years will become a favorite place for comfortable walks of your relatives and guests!

Examples of garden paths made of paving stones and paving slabs

If you think that laying paving slabs is a job only for professionals, then this review will prove you otherwise. Take 10 minutes to read the article, and you will know all the nuances of the technology and be able to make the tracks as good as the experts. It does not require special skills and sophisticated equipment, the main thing is to do everything carefully and follow the correct sequence of work.

Step by step description of the workflow

Now let's figure out how to make paths from paving slabs in the country.

The workflow can be divided into several stages:

• Planning and breakdown of the territory;
• Acquisition necessary materials and tool;
• Foundation preparation;
• Laying tiles;
• Leveling the surface and sealing the seams.

We now turn to a detailed consideration of each stage.

Stage 1 - planning paths and marking the site

This is the preparatory part, which will help us a lot in the future.

Within this stage, the following works are performed:

• You should have a site plan at hand, or rather, you should transfer it to Blank sheet paper. Just draw in the correct scale the configuration of the area where the work will be carried out. On the sketch, indicate all the objects that can create interference and that need to be bypassed;
• Garden paths are located so that it is convenient for you to move around and that they go around all natural obstacles. If you have already lived on the site for a year or two, then the location of the paths is easy to determine: wherever you often go, paths will be trodden. You only need to reflect them on the project to see the estimated amount of work;

• The layout of garden paths should provide for their width. Immediately determine the size of the sites. As for the width, where people often walk, it should be a meter and a half, and where movement is infrequent, you can limit yourself to 75-80 centimeters. If you drive a car along the track, then consider its dimensions and add a margin of half a meter on each side;

• You must also decide which tile will be used and how it will be laid. Competently combining and choosing interesting scheme laying, you will be able to make beautiful paths. There are a lot of options, below are just a few examples that are popular and used quite often;

• When you have decided on the location of the tracks and their configuration, you can start laying out the site. First of all, you need to drive the pegs into the places where the tracks begin, and then place them along the entire length at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. If you have a lot of bends, then the pegs are located closer to accurately mark the configuration of the future structure;

• The cord is pulled at a height of 10-20 cm above ground level. You can use any twine or fishing line, the main thing is to set the contours of the track so that later you can clearly see where you need to work;

• If you need to make semi-circular corners, you can use the simple method shown in the diagram below. A peg is driven in in the middle, a cord of the required length is tied to it with the same peg or a simple stick, and a rounding is drawn. Everything is simple and accurate at the same time.

Since you will be digging a trench along the marking line, the pegs must be hammered to a depth of 35-40 cm. Then, when preparing the bed for the path, they will not fall and will stand as expected.

Stage 2 - the acquisition of the necessary materials and tools

Material	Selection Guide
paving slabs	It should be remembered that paving slabs for paths in the country are selected depending on the load on the surface. If cars drive at least occasionally on the surface, then the thickness of the elements should be 70-80 mm, and if people walk along the paths, then 50-60 mm will be enough. outdoor tiles does not have huge amount colors, but if desired, you can find unusual options
Curbstone	Before choosing borders, it is worth deciding on a tile. Then you will know the color of the tracks and will be able to choose the best frame for them. I do not recommend laying without borders, as the process will be much more difficult
Crushed stone or gravel	If you will use crushed stone, then take options for a small or medium fraction. As for gravel, a standard composition will do; all large stones must be removed from it before use. I recommend using the first option, as it can create a stronger foundation.
Building sand	There are no special requirements here. The main thing is that the composition does not contain plant roots and pieces of clay
Geotextile	With the help of this material, we will strengthen the base and improve the removal of moisture. This will prevent subsidence of the tracks and their washing away during heavy rainfall.
Cement	The composition of the brand M400 or M500 should be used. With it, we will make a mixture for the base and filling the joints after laying

Now let's deal with the tool that will be needed for laying paving slabs:

• Roulette, level and rule;
• Rubber or wooden mallet;

• Trowel;
• Hose with diffuser or garden waterer;
• Rake and broom;
• Profile or rail for leveling the surface;
• Rammer, you can make a manual version, but it is much easier to rent equipment, it is inexpensive.

Stage 3 - preparation of the base

A very important part of the workflow, which consists of the following steps:

• Removal of soil to the desired depth;
• Installation of a curb;
• The construction of a pillow under the tile.

We will analyze each stage in detail and start by digging a trench under the track:

• Sod breaks through the rope with a shovel, you need to hold the bayonet vertically and make a straight line to a depth of at least 20 cm. That is, first of all, it is cut through upper layer and a landmark is set;

• Next, you need to remove the soil, the depth of the trench should be about 30 centimeters below the level of the future track. It is important to carefully remove excess ground, it is easiest to start with two strips along the cord. So you will remove the earth on the sides, and in the middle it will be easier to work;

• The earth is removed over the entire area on which the tiles will be laid. In the process of work, periodically check the level to remove the soil in approximately the same way.

Now let's figure out how to put a border:

• Since the height of the sides is greater than the tiles along the edges, you need to make trenches 15 cm below the already excavated surface. The width of the trench should be approximately the bayonet of a shovel, this is quite enough to install the sides;
• First, about 20 cm of crushed stone is poured, it is leveled and compacted, 5 cm of sand is poured on top. After that, you can pour water on the surface and tamp, controlling the plane with a level. It is important to make a flat base on which the border will be located;
• A small layer is superimposed on a pillow of sand cement mortar(4 parts sand to 1 part cement). After that, a curb stone is exposed along the cord. On the solution, it will stand stably, you only need to adjust its position;

• When you put several elements, then additionally check the plane with a level. This will help to set the design evenly and clearly;

• Laying continues like this until the very end. For reliability, you can apply a small amount of the solution on the side. The design should stand for about a day before you can proceed to the next stage of work.

Now let's figure out how to make a base for a tile:

• To begin with, a layer of crushed stone or gravel 15 cm thick is poured. After that, the material is evenly distributed over the surface and it is rammed. You can work both with special equipment and with a manual device from a piece of log with a handle. It is important to compact the crushed stone well over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bits laying;

• A layer of geotextile material is laid on top of the rubble. It will create a barrier to the penetration of sand into the rubble and improve the drainage of the surface. Laying is very easy: the canvas spreads across the width of the track. At the joints, for reliability, make overlaps of 10-15 cm;

• A layer of river or construction sand 5 cm thick. It must be carefully leveled and moistened with a hose or sprinkler. After that, the final alignment and compaction of the sand cushion is carried out. It is important to make an even and solid foundation;

• Lastly, a layer of dry cement-sand mixture is poured, which is prepared from 4 parts of sand and 1 part of cement. The composition is evenly distributed over the surface, the easiest way is to level it with a homemade rail. It is done simply: a board is cut along the width of the curb, cutouts are made in it so that it falls to the desired level. Then you simply smooth the surface, ensuring the uniformity of the cement-sand mixture.

If you have unstable or heaving soil, then it is better to place geotextiles not only under sand, but also under crushed stone. Two layers of material will strengthen the surface and prevent crushed stone from sinking into soft soil.

Stage 4 - laying tiles

If you have done the preparation correctly, then the installation will be quick and easy.

The work consists of the following:

• Work starts from the extreme point. You must lay the tile in front of you so as not to step on the previously prepared base. First, the first row is laid out, you must tightly attach the elements to each other and make sure that they are located in one line;

• The row is aligned along the line, after which the plane is checked. If necessary, individual elements are knocked out to align with the surface. If some tile has sagged, then it must be lifted, after which a little cement-sand mixture should be put with a trowel and leveled;

• If you have a straight tile, then it is easiest to lay it row by row, using the rail as a guide. Everything is simple here: two extreme tiles are laid, a landmark rests on them and is pressed on the other side so that it does not move. Then along the line you can lay out a row very quickly, and at the same time it will be perfectly even;

• If the tile is laid diagonally, then for a guide it is easiest to pull a cord along one of the joints. It simply presses against the edge of the tile and helps you see if you are laying out a row evenly. To better understand this option, a diagram is shown below;

• If cutting tiles is required, then this process is carried out after laying all the whole elements. The work is done using a special power cutter or grinder with a disc for concrete. The element is marked and then carefully cut along the line, the work is simple, but noisy and dusty.

Stage 5 - leveling the surface and sealing the seams

When the laying work is completed, you can proceed to the finishing part of the process.

Everything is pretty simple here:

• To begin with, the surface is checked with a long, even rail or rule. If there are protruding sections on it, they should be trimmed with a rubber mallet. The differences should be minimal, so until you check the track in all directions, do not continue work;

• Then a sand-cement mixture is prepared, which is poured in a small layer on the surface. The easiest way to hammer the composition into the joints is with a brush with a hard bristle. Just treat the surface so that the sand gets into all the cracks, after which the excess is gently swept away;

• Further, the surface is well wetted from a hose or sprinkler. It may turn out that in some the mixture will sit down, then you need to apply it again and moisten the tile again. Drying takes 2-3 days, the mixture sets during this time and a very durable surface is obtained.

Conclusion

After reading the review, you can easily lay paving slabs with your own hands. The process is simple and does not require great experience and special skills.

The paving slab has an attractive appearance, characterized by availability and long service life.

Therefore, it is good for various construction tasks.

With its help, you can ennoble the area near the office or the adjacent territory, arrange a path or a parking lot for a car.

How to lay a path from paving slabs , and what nuances should be taken into account in order to perform all the arrangement work correctly?

For a person who is well versed in the basics of the standard technique, laying paving stones will not cause any difficulties.

First you need to prepare a site for laying paving stones.

If the surface is uneven, you will have to remove part of the soil, level the resulting area and carefully compact it so that there are no extra bumps on the surface.

Then you need to build several underlying layers, the first of which is the carrier.

In its manufacture, a mixture of crushed stone and gravel is used, evenly distributed over the surface and compacted.

During the time it is required to look that from the middle of the path to the edges a layer of rubble was placed with a slope of 1-2%. The carrier layer must be no more than 10 cm high.

Then you need to install a border. It will not allow the tile to move and will give the work done a neat finished look.

For the curb, paving stone blocks laid on the edge are suitable. Before laying out the curb stone over the entire area, it is required to calculate the number of tiles.

The calculation should be such that a whole number of tiles fit into the prepared area, decorated with a border, and it would not have to be cut. If this is possible, of course.

It should be noted that between the tiles there are inter-tile seams, 3-4 mm wide. They also need to be taken into account when calculating the required material.

The height of the curb is calculated on the basis that, after completion, the tile itself only slightly rises above the curb. It turns out that rainwater will calmly drain from the surface of the completed path and will not stagnate, forming puddles.

After preparing the site and installing the curbstone, it will be necessary to lay a layer of ballast of fine gravel or sand, 3 cm thick. Now you can proceed to the process of laying tiles.

Start laying is required from the curb. To maintain parallelism, it is required to pull the thread through the entire length of the track so that the tiles do not move during installation.

First you need to lay out a couple of rows, observing that the tile joints are located at the same distance from each other. It is recommended that the resulting seams be immediately filled with screenings or fine sand.

When the laying work is completed, it is necessary to walk along the entire surface of the track with a special tool - a vibration machine. This will allow each tile to "sit in its place." At the very end, the seams must be filled with sand again.

How to properly lay paving slabs

Paving slabs, or as it was marked - paving stones, has become widespread and has become the most sought-after material. Tiles can be diamond-shaped, rectangular, square, each of which differs in thickness and strength. The standard tile size is 20 x 10 xh. How to lay out a tile track with your own hands? The path can be posted different ways using various schematic drawings.

Popular styling methods:

• herringbone
• "brickwork"
• "column"

Why is paving stone so popular? The fact is that when laying it, no special knowledge is required; even a beginner can cope with the task.

Tile is a versatile material, it can be used to equip footpaths of various types, parking lots.

For the construction of a platform or parking for lightning and passenger cars, it will be necessary to use a pairwise arrangement of paving stones. It is desirable that the tile be 2 or more colors.

What are the advantages of tiles:

• Easy installation allows all laying work to be carried out by hand.
• If the need arises, some damaged elements can be easily replaced.

The durability of the tiles depends on the correct laying. Therefore, do not think that everything is easy to do, some knowledge and skill will be required. Sometimes you can save on the cost of paving stones, but you should not save on the laying process.

Materials and tools for work

Tiles and curb stone

Paving slabs can be vibrocast and stamped.

In the production of the first are used the latest technology vibrocasting, so it costs much more and is much superior in quality and service life to stamped.

The thickness of the tiles varies from 20 to 80 mm.

For the construction of paths in the garden, paving stones with a thickness of 20 to 40 mm are suitable, and for the construction of a car platform, it is recommended to take tiles with a thickness of at least 70-80 mm.

When buying, you should pay attention to the frost resistance index, ideally MP3 should be equal to 200.

How to calculate the amount and required amount of curb stone? Paving stones for sale square meters. During the calculation of the necessary material, it will be necessary to add an extra 20% to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future track, because during laying the tile may crack.

When calculating tiles for diagonal laying, you will need to add 30% to the resulting figure.

Curb stone or curb can be bought individually. In order to calculate the required amount of curb stone, you need to multiply the length of the track by 2.

Then the resulting footage figure must be divided by the length of one curb stone. The result will be the required quantity.

Tools for work:

• pegs
• twine or strong rope
• Master OK
• shovel and rake
• hydraulic level
• metal channel
• metallic profile
• wooden mallet, geotextile
• rammer, tape measure
• rubber hose with diffuser stretched over it
• panicle
• cement (M 400, M 500), sand, gravel

Tools prepared in advance will allow you to work quickly and efficiently, in the process of laying you will not have to be distracted by the search for the necessary material.

To work more comfortably and not harm yourself in the process, you must have waterproof gloves and rubber knee pads. You will also need to supply water. Work is carried out with access to the mains.

Do-it-yourself paving stone laying

How to lay a path from paving slabs in the country, using the basics of laying technology. Depending on the thickness of the pavers, it is necessary to lay paving slabs on a sand, concrete or crushed stone base. That is, first you need to equip the pillow.

Features and stages of work on laying tiles on their own

In the place where the path will be located, it is required to remove the sod, 15 cm deep. The bottom must be cleaned of debris, protruding stones, the remaining root system of plants should be removed, shrubs uprooted, and weed seeds should be excluded.

Next, you need to carry out a transverse and longitudinal layout of the bottom of the prepared trench. At this time, you need to take into account the slope for the stack. If, when digging a trench, it turns out that the bottom is too clayey, you can make a drainage layer in the deepest place.

Now you need to tamp the bottom. For this, special equipment is used, for example, they are compacted using a vibrator.

If tamping is carried out on your own, you can use a small log by nailing a handle to it from the end side.

When laying out a track that will have geometrically correct form, you will need to dig grooves with the expectation of a curb or curb stone.

Then, when the bottom of the trench is rammed, it must be covered with a sand layer 5 centimeters thick.

To install a curb or curb stone, it is recommended to make a concrete base.

Stone laying will be more reliable if diluted concrete is poured to the bottom.

So that the track bed does not undergo deformation during operation, it is necessary to lay geotextiles on a layer of sand.

Spunbond, Agril or Agrotex is suitable as a mulching material. The material must be black. This method is used on weakly heaving soil.

Now it remains to fill the bottom of the prepared trench with crushed stone, 5 to 20 mm thick. The crushed stone layer is made 20 centimeters high. Transportation needs to be taken into account. Then you need to pour water and tamp.

Now you need to start laying paving slabs.

Attention! Laying is carried out only on a flat surface. During laying, it is recommended to use vibrating plates, a rubber or wooden mallet. We must not forget that there should be a slight slope from the center to the edges for the rainwater to drain.

Now you need to prepare a dry mixture of cement (M 400, M 500) with sand, evenly distribute it over the entire surface of the tile and fill the seams between the paving stones.

Then you need to sweep the remains with a whisk building mix and sprinkle with water. It is required that water gets into all the cracks. It remains only to wait for the mixture to harden.

Tips from a professional: we take into account all the nuances

• When calculating the amount of material needed, it should be taken into account that during installation, no matter how much you would like it, residues will still form. Depending on the shape of the paving during laying, it will need to be cut.
• Therefore, the calculation of the required amount of material should be carried out taking into account possible waste. The parallel laying option implies the least amount of waste, and the diagonal method - the most.
• A paving stone path laid out on a crushed stone pillow or a special mortar easily holds the weight of a car. In order for the track to be able to withstand the weight of a truck, it will be necessary to strengthen the crushed stone base by 1.5 times and lay the tiles on the concrete base.
• To get a reliable track, you need to prepare the base with high quality and follow the main points for laying the squares on your own. The more accurately the work is done, the longer the track will last.
• So that during the splitting of the tile it does not burst completely in the wrong place, it must first be cut with a grinder. During work, it is necessary to use a respirator, as a lot of dust is generated.
• Before filling the sand, it must be sieved to exclude the possibility of plant residues entering. Otherwise, the path will soon take on an untidy look, as they will stick out of the joints and will have to be removed all the time.
• Basically, the tracks are laid out from gray or colored tiles. To maintain an aesthetic appearance, a gray paving stone path will have to be constantly cleaned, and a colored tile path must be washed, and in winter it must be cleared of snow. In order not to scratch the surface, it is not recommended to use metal objects.
• Cars must not be allowed to pass through the unfinished section. Only when all the joints of the paved path are filled with sand, traffic is allowed.

How original the path in the country house will be depends on the design abilities and imagination of the owner. Despite the fact that the design of the tile is practically the same, you can show your imagination and create a unique and inimitable ornament.

How to lay the track with your own hands, you can watch the video:

Among all stages of arrangement adjoining territory in the country, which are the most significant, laying paving slabs occupies one of the most prominent places. And this is quite natural, because the use this material makes the site not only more convenient, but also very aesthetic. It is also noteworthy that the technology for laying such tiles is not particularly difficult, so that all work can be done by hand, without the involvement of expensive specialists.

How can you post?

Before proceeding with the selection of materials and preparation of the territory, the owner of the site needs to decide how he will lay the tiles. The size, shape and volume of materials used directly depend on the choice made.

If we highlight the most popular styling schemes, then their list will look like this:

• Order. This method, which is the least complicated, is rightfully considered a classic. It assumes that the tiles should be placed sequentially, one after the other. As a rule, for such cases, rectangular and square elements are chosen.
• With offset. An equally common styling option belonging to the traditional category. It provides for the arrangement of tiles, in which their joints do not match, and allows the use of several shades and textures. Required condition schemes - the same form of all elements.

• checkerboard. A feature of this technique is the use of two-color tiles with equal parties. Despite its simplicity, the presented laying method makes the tracks more spectacular, which is explained by the beautiful play of colors.
• Herringbone. This method involves placing the tiles at a 45 or 90 degree angle. By choosing this option, the site owner can use both rectangular and curly elements. A more complex type of Christmas tree is braided - laying road tiles with alternation (along and across). To build a clear pattern, it is advisable to work with no more than two colors.

Worthy of mention is such a decision as the formation of various geometric shapes.

The creation of such compositions involves the use of multi-colored tiles that have the same shape.

Materials and tools

Having decided on the installation method, the owner of the site can proceed to the selection of tiles. It is necessary to take into account not only external, but also functional characteristics of the purchased elements, namely:

• withstand load;
• surface smoothness;
• possibility of processing.

As for the most common material from which paving slabs are made, this is concrete. The manufacturing technology of such products is extremely simple, and their strength and durability rightly deserve high praise.

In order to correctly calculate the number of tiles needed for arranging the tracks, it is advisable to sketch rough plan the latter, which will indicate their dimensions and shape. Based on the area of ​​the working area and the size of the tiles used, you can easily determine the sufficient volume of the selected material.

In addition to tiles, the owner of a summer cottage will need:

• dry cement;
• sand;
• small pieces rock(gravel or gravel);
• small pegs made of wood or metal;
• spirit level;
• Master OK;
• carpenter's hammer made of rubber or hard wood (mallet);
• tile knife;
• tamper;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• profile;
• geotextile (material that protects tiles from failures);
• thin strong thread (twine).

If the arrangement of paths from paving slabs is carried out on a formed site, then to transport excess soil, the owner of the cottage should get a wheelbarrow, and instead manual tamper It makes sense to use a vibrator.

Ways

In a situation where the owner of the cottage relies on homemade paving slabs, he should purchase all the necessary materials, not forgetting to make suitable molds for pouring. The described type of coating involves the use of a mixture of sand and cement (DSP), and the latter must be of grade M400 or higher. Another significant point is the use of plasticizers that make paving slabs more elastic. As for giving the manufactured elements the desired shade, the use of appropriate pigments allows solving this problem.

Special attention should be paid to the forms for filling. If the owner of the site wants to save on the purchase of such products, the following solutions may be useful to him:

• Food containers made of plastic. To reduce production time the right amount tiles, it is desirable to use as many of these molds as possible.
• Ordinary boards, which are an excellent alternative to the option described above.
• Frame from sheet metal. To obtain such forms, it is enough to disassemble the old barrel by removing the iron hoops from it. By bending the metal so that its contours are smooth, you can get original molds that are well suited for materials that imitate limestone - plates of good-quality natural stone.

Walkthrough for the manufacture of tiles for garden paths is presented below:

• Mix 3 parts of sand with 1 part of cement, using a container of a suitable volume.
• In small portions, add water to the resulting mixture, mixing everything thoroughly until a consistency resembling a dense dough is obtained.
• Prepare the molds by lubricating them well from the inside with engine oil to prevent the solution from sticking.
• Fill the molds with the prepared mixture, stirring a little and pressing it down. This is necessary in order to avoid the occurrence of voids. It is not necessary to carefully level the back surface of the tiles: being rough, it fits more securely with the base.
• Shake the molds a little so that the composition fills all their corners.
• Leave tiles to dry fresh air away from direct sunlight.

In order for the paving slabs to become solid, you will have to wait 5-7 days, after which the manufactured elements can be carefully pulled out of the molds.

After that, you will need to spend another 2-3 decades, during which the tile will completely dry out and become as strong as possible.

Track device

To begin with, the owner of suburban real estate should decide on the places allocated for pedestrian zones. It is desirable that they repeat the directions of the greatest movement in the suburban area, providing easy access to all its significant objects.

Preparatory land works

All the soil located in the places where the tracks are laid must be removed to a depth of 10-30 cm. When performing this action, it should be borne in mind that the width of the created recess should include not only the dimensions of the track, but also the dimensions of the side stones and drainage groove.

Installation of curbs

This activity may include both the use of precast concrete products and their production on site. Before placing the curbs, you should make sure that the plane of the track has a slight slope, which ensures that moisture drains. Then you can proceed to install the side stones on the liquid concrete mortar with their subsequent fixing in the desired position - by means of pegs made of wood or metal fittings.

Foundation arrangement

There are two main ways:

• sand pillow. The solution under consideration is relevant for tracks whose length and width are small. A decimeter layer of sand is placed on the ground, which is moistened and carefully compacted. Geotextiles are placed on top, and then a layer of gravel or gravel, also having a decimeter height. After that, it is necessary to treat the surface with a rammer, add another 5 cm of sand and carry out the final moistening and compaction.
• Concrete base. Stronger than the previous one, this type of base can be used regardless of the dimensions of the tracks being created. First stage its arrangement involves backfilling a 5-cm layer of sand into the recess, which must be thoroughly moistened and compacted. Next, you should prepare a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3 and pour it with approximately the same layer on top, not forgetting to level the mortar with a trowel.

Laying a decorative layer

This problem can be solved with the help of a rubber or wooden carpenter's hammer and spirit level. As for cutting tiles, it is easiest to do it with an angle grinder. Deepen the elements into the substrate should be slowly, gently tapping on them and accurately placing them in the same plane. Besides, between decorative tiles keep a distance of a few millimeters. Subsequently, these gaps must be filled with a DSP, which ensures the strongest possible fixation of the coating elements.

Upon completion of paving, the surface must be cleaned of cement and sand residues using a brush. After that, it remains just to pour the created surface with clean water.

When buying a tile, the owner of the site should take into account that part of the material will turn into waste. First of all, this is due to the trimming of paving slabs, which depends on the shape and dimensions of the elements used, as well as the way they are laid.

So, the most economical option is the parallel arrangement of tiles, and the most costly is their diagonal placement.

In addition, the following points should be taken into account:

• It is not recommended to equip paths at a distance of up to 70 cm from trees. Developing root system the latter can seriously damage the created surfaces.
• If the intensity of traffic on the tracks is average, then in most cases their width of 0.8 m is sufficient.
• In situations where the owner of the site plans to use the tracks for transporting luggage on wheelbarrows or moving a large number people, the width of the created cover must be increased by at least 20 cm.
• In order for subsequent work to be carried out with the least difficulty, it is advisable to mark the outlines of future tracks with a thin cord stretched between the pegs.

FORUMHOUSE users are well aware that life outside the city is not only a pleasant pastime in a hammock in the garden, but also constant household chores. Everyone equips their "ten acres" to their liking. And if the creation of landscape design is a matter of personal preference, then garden paths are simply vital on any personal plot and at any cottage. Indeed, in addition to purely decorative purposes, it is the paths that allow us to move freely around the site, regardless of the season.

Therefore, the materials for paving garden paths are subject to increased requirements, such as durability, safety, environmental friendliness and presentable appearance. All these requirements are met by paving slabs. Expert advice and step by step instructions from the users of our forum in this article will help you lay tiles for the path in the country on your own!

How to make a tile walkway. Planning.

Any construction should begin with careful planning of all works. The laying of paving slabs will not be an exception. First of all, you should pay attention to the following points:

The total number of tracks and their location on the site. Tiles for the path in the garden.

The key rule can be formulated as follows: "The central path in the garden should lead from the entrance to the site to the house." If there is a garage, a workshop or a gazebo on the site, then you should put paths to them. Thus, you can ensure the zoning of the site, ensuring unhindered access to each building.

Width pavement paths

The path leading to the house should be so wide that two adults walking towards each other could easily pass each other on it. On average, this value is from 1 to 1.5 meters.

Paths that are not used so often and lead to flower beds or beds can be made 0.5 to 0.8 meters wide.

It should also be clearly defined functional purpose tracks.

Denis Bogdanov Landscape improvement specialist, nickname on the forum Denis Vlad-ch

- For myself, I clearly divide the paths into decorative, leading to the gazebo, and functional, which are under heavy load and lead to the house or garage.

Paths that are under heavy load require more careful preparation of the base than those tracks that are used from time to time.

Denis Vlad-ch

It is also necessary to consider how you will care for the garden path in winter and autumn.

Unlike a bulk path, paving slabs are easier to care for. When removing snow and fallen leaves, you will not throw rubble aside.

The second most important, after functionality, characteristic of a garden paving path is how pleasant it is to walk on it. And in order to understand this, you can use the secret of landscape designers.

Vladimir Petriv Director of Petriv Landscape Design

I always advise you to first walk along the pre-marked paths and make sure that everything is comfortable, and it is convenient for everyone in the household to move along them. I can say that after such a “walk”, you almost always have to make adjustments to the original plan for marking the track.

In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, you must choose the thickness of the tiles. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

How to make a sidewalk: step by step instructions

In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, it is necessary to choose the thickness of the paving slabs. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

Konstantin MerzlyakovExpert of the plant "Factory GOTIKA", Moscow:

For garden paths and the adjacent territory, where passenger vehicles do not drive, the paving slabs of the path can be no thicker than 40-50 mm. And for a path that provides passage for a passenger car and parking, the thickness of the tile must be at least 60 mm.

Vladimir Petriv:

The initial preparation for laying garden paths is usually associated with excavation, and this should be linked to the geoplastics of your site. With large elevation changes, slopes, etc., it will be necessary to move and remove large masses of land - a very costly event that requires the use of construction equipment

Geoplastics is the artificial formation of the relief and architecture of the site.

How to lay a tile garden path. Recommendations of experts.

Paving slabs are an environmentally friendly and durable coating for a garden path. And its durability and beauty, first of all, will depend on the quality of paving slabs and compliance with the laying technology. Tiles on the tracks can be done with your own hands.

Konstantin Merzlyakov

Modern paving slabs are made of concrete. The shape of the tile can be absolutely any, which allows you to successfully fit garden paths into landscape design any area.

The service life of vibropressed concrete tiles is on average 15 years, provided proper preparation grounds.

And, like any coating, paving slabs require care during operation (cleaning, the use of water-repellent coatings, etc.).

The first stage of preparatory work for laying paving slabs is the breakdown of the contour of the area to be laid and the setting of control "beacons". The corners of the territory, binding to the available areas, slopes are taken into account. After the work has been done on the breakdown of the contour, they begin to prepare the base, which includes the following types of work: layout, installation of the carrier layer, installation of borders and the installation of a leveling sand layer under the tile.

Sidewalk paths with their own hands

We make a path from paving slabs in the following step-by-step sequence:

• Earthen boxes are torn off under the side stone;
• A side stone is installed around the perimeter of the site. The curb stone is necessary for a strong fixation of the paving slab web;
• The underlying layer is poured;
• The foundation is being laid;
• The tile covering is laid;
• The tile joints are filled.

It is also necessary to remember that when laying tiles, the following standards should be followed.

Alexander LoginovTechnical director of the company TD BRAER

Work on the installation of pavement should be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.06.03-85 "Motorways" and SNiP III-10-75 "Improvement of territories".

BUT independent process stacking can be divided into a number of successive stages.

1. Planning and designing a garden path. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site. Then develop the layout of garden paths, choose the design and pattern of the tile layout;
2. Calculation of the cost of the necessary materials;
3. Carrying out work on laying a garden path.

Tiled garden paths.

Let's consider each of the points in more detail.

Alexander Loginov:

The choice of tile laying method depends on the condition of the country soil and the subsequent operating conditions of the site: the blind area of ​​the building, the pedestrian zone, the area for the passage and parking of cars, etc.

It should be remembered that the result of your work, first of all, will depend on the thoroughness of the preliminary marking and preparation of the base for laying tiles.

Planning includes the following:

• draw the layout of the area to be paved;
• measure the area in order to apply dimensions to the plan;
• based on the above points, calculate the required number of tiles for laying, as well as the amount of materials for preparing the base of the track from tiles with a border.

After developing a plan, they begin marking future tracks.

Alexander Loginov

First of all, determine the direction of the water flow. Please note that water should go along the blind area of ​​the building or along the path to drainage wells or lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than 0.5%, that is, 5 mm per meter.

The direction of the slope should be such that water flows from the paving into drainage systems or on the lawn, but not to the building!

After the place for laying the tiles is determined, the boundaries of the track are marked. To do this, pegs are driven in along the boundaries of the site, along which a cord or fishing line is pulled. After that, you can start excavating the soil, adhering to the following recommendations:

1. Excavation is carried out so that after laying the front surface of the tile reaches the specified level of your site;
2. The platform formed after excavation is leveled and rammed;
3. If the soil is soft, it must be moistened (spill with water from a hose) and compacted.

Vladimir Petriv

Drainage and drainage into a stormwater or storage well must be thought out and installed at the preparatory stage of laying garden paths.

Tiling garden path

Konstantin Merzlyakov

When laying paving slabs on a complex curved surface and with a large difference in heights, it is necessary, when planning, to lay a larger percentage on the consumption of tiles (cutting, fitting, etc.).

Pavement base preparation

Most milestone laying paving slabs - preparation of the base. The right foundation will not allow the track or platform to “sag”, ensuring their longevity. It should be borne in mind that, despite the tight seams between the tiles, the base is still saturated with water. Therefore, a permeable drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is needed at the base. Then part of the water from the surface will be diverted through the paving stones and the carrier layer into the soil.

How to make paths from tiles.

It is also important to understand what layers it consists of. correct option base pie for laying tiles.

Alexander Mishin Expert of Wienerberger Brick

The cake consists of several layers: a natural soil base, a subbase, an underlying layer, a “bed” and, in fact, a “sidewalk”.

"Bed" is a layer of sand or fine gravel. The subbase is a bulk layer of soil, and the underlying layer consists of gravel or crushed stone.

Alexander Mishin

The thickness of the "bed" for any type of soil base is on average 3-5 cm. The thickness of the remaining layers should be formed based on such indicators of the soil base as moisture, density and composition.

Alexander Loginov

For the main carrier layer, a frost-resistant, homogeneous material (crushed stone, gravel) is used. This material must be laid evenly in height and with the required slopes.

To build an ordinary pedestrian country path, you will need to make a carrier layer 10-20 cm thick. When arranging platforms for driving and parking cars a layer of 20-30 cm is used. At high loads, the carrier layer is increased and placed in 2-3 layers, each layer is compacted with a vibrating plate or a vibrating roller.

As mentioned above, the method of preparing the base largely depends on the expected load on the garden path. It is also necessary to take into account the bearing capacity of the soil.

Our forum user Oleg Novitsky advises how to build a pavement path from tiles with difficult soil: if there is so-called heavy or clay soil under the base, or you have a swampy country cottage area, then the thickness of the crushed stone base must be made at least 10 cm.

Then the geotextile is laid.

Geotextiles pass water well and do not allow materials to mix (mixing of materials leads to the formation of voids and dips in the coatings).

Alexander Mishin

The use of geotextiles is appropriate when the natural soil base is located in a swampy area and has high humidity. A layer of geotextile is arranged over a natural soil base.

The next layer of our “pie” is sifting on a geotextile base.

Oleg Novitsky

We fill the area with screenings (or sand). The screening layer must be at least 10 cm. This layer must be very carefully compacted. At this stage, it is necessary to accurately level the entire base for laying using a rule or other tool.

Screening has not much good property- caking. This means that over time the base becomes almost monolithic, and then, due to its low strength, it cracks, and cracks and shells form in the coating. To avoid such a nuisance, use a vibrating tool for compaction and ramming and do not work in rainy weather. The best screening for such work is dry.

Then we proceed to create the foundation level, guided by the following algorithm:

• The boundaries and center lines of the site are marked with a rope;
• Loose sand can be leveled just below the edges of the curb;
• We compact the resulting pillow with a vibrating plate.

Oleg Novitsky

An electric or gasoline vibratory rammer with a rubber sole is well suited for compacting a layer of sand. Using it, you can not only prepare a gravel-sand cushion with high quality, but also avoid further subsidence and soil collapse under the laid tiles.

Alexander Loginov

It must be remembered that all layers of the base are poured, leveled and compacted, taking into account a 0.5% slope!

Completes preparatory stage backfilling with river sand or cement-sand mixture. To do this, a layer of clay-free river sand 1-2 cm thick is poured onto the base without compaction, the layer must be loose.

CPS (cement-sand mixture) is taken in a ratio of 1:8-1:10, because cement is needed to bind the sand so that it is washed out with water.

Alexander Mishin

The use of a cement-sand mixture as a "bed" is justified only if heavy traffic is expected on the surface of the tile. The garage and pedestrian zone of a private house does not belong here, because. traffic and load are not so intense here.

Paving slabs

In order for the garden path to be durable, and the tiles on it lie evenly, its laying by the summer resident must also be divided into several successive stages.

Laying starts:

• from the bottom point;
• from optically important boundaries;
• from conspicuous elements: a porch, the main entrance to the house;
• manual laying of tiles is done diagonally away from you, so as not to disturb the prepared top layer.

Before starting the laying of the first row of tiles, in order to maintain the exact location of the joints, it is necessary to stretch the cord over the entire length and width of the object. After that, adhering to the cord, proceed with the installation.

It is recommended to check the location and straightness of the joints every three rows of laid paving slabs. Laying is carried out using a rubber mallet (mallet) with light blows on the tile. Every 3-5 sq.m of laid, but not yet compacted paving slabs, its surface is controlled using a two-meter rule or building level.

Alexander Loginov

As a frame for tracks suburban area curbstones should be used. These fences must be made before laying the outer part of the path to prevent transverse displacement and settlement of the tiles.

Along the edges of the marked area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe path, along a stretched cord, dig a trench of small size and depth (so that the curb enters this trench to the required level). The base of the trench must be tamped, backfilled, and the curb placed on concrete.

The border can be visible or hidden - it depends on the desire. If the border is hidden, then it must be placed so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the border by the height of the chamfer.

Oleg Novitsky

To reduce the number of tiles to cut, start the most long row from the curb, laying out whole tiles directly to it. The resulting voids should be exactly half of the tile. When cutting from one whole, you will get two necessary halves, and, I believe, waste can be completely avoided. This technique can be used for curly symmetrical tiles.

The biggest enemy of any paving slab is freezing water. Therefore, it is impossible to lay tiles on monolithic, waterproof bases, concrete screed. In the open air, it is forbidden to lay tiles on the mortar.

Sealing and vibrotamper

After laying the tiles, the coating is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the coating, dry sifted clean sand is poured onto the surface in such a way that the sand is easily and densely poured into the gaps between the tiles. Scattered sand is spread evenly with a brush over the entire area and hammered into the seams, “tying” the entire coating into a single whole.

And in order to build a durable coating, when working, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• Do not lay tiles in rainy weather without a special canopy.
• Do not fill the joints with a mixture of sand and cement.
• If the site has a "complex", heaving soil, it must be borne in mind that its displacement can deform the tile. Then more complex styling is performed - with phased preparation concrete cushion as a base, which guarantees durability.

Thus, at self-laying garden paths, you need to take into account every little thing and carefully plan all stages of work. After all, the path to your home begins with a garden path made!