Concrete floor in a private house. Concrete floor - its advantages Concrete floor instead of wood in a private house

Extend the life of your wood floor country house possible with a concrete screed. In this case, the surface will become more even and durable. In the future, it is allowed to finish the floor with any material, for example, laminate, tile or parquet.

The feasibility of concrete flooring on a wooden floor

Disputes do not stop regarding the advisability of implementing a concrete screed according to wooden floor. Many people say that concrete will make the structure heavier, which will increase the pressure on the foundation. On the other hand, the fragility of the wooden base will lead to cracking of the concrete surface, deformation floor covering. It is also likely that the floor will be uneven. However, there are many facts that speak in favor of a concrete coating on a wood floor:

1. A concrete screed on a wooden floor is poured according to a separate technology, taking into account the characteristics of the wood base. Laying is carried out according to the principle of an unbound screed, which neutralizes the possibility of deformation.
2. It is recommended to pour cement when leveling and strengthening the base for hard flooring is required.
3. Concrete is ideal for underfloor heating.

To avoid possible negative consequences from the interaction of wood and concrete, the recommendations for the work should be followed exactly. An important stage in preparatory stage is the priming of a wooden surface in order to ensure sufficient moisture resistance. As a waterproofing, it is recommended to use a durable polyethylene film without defects. Its individual parts must be overlapped. To obtain a flat surface, beacons must be installed before pouring. The thickness of the concrete layer should not exceed 5 cm.

Since concrete itself is a massive and heavy material, which can cause the wood-based screed to sag or break at weak points in the floor, it is recommended to add plasticizers to the masonry mixture. These additives give the solution sufficient fluidity, plasticity, strength, water resistance, and the screed does not collapse for a long time even when high loads.

Execution Technology

Scheme of a concrete screed of a wooden floor.

A screed on a wooden base is created to increase the strength of the border between wood and concrete. So that cement and wood do not come into contact, do not affect the quality of each other, the concrete layer is cut off from the walls of the room with a damper tape, and from the wooden base - with polyethylene. This principle of arrangement allows you to save concrete from cracking and destruction due to changes in the subbase. The screed laid on wooden floors has some features:

• the mass of the pour should ensure a tight fit of the concrete to the floor;
• cement should not come into contact with wood (a film layer is enough to prevent interaction);
• it is forbidden to pour the cement mixture directly onto the wood flooring;
• be sure to equip a high-quality layer of waterproofing.

Pour concrete screed on wooden surface can only be done after the calculations preparatory work.

Calculations

Before you start arranging the floors, you should make a calculation. When using finished sand- cement mixture the amount of material is determined on the basis that 1 cm of layer is obtained from 15 kg / m2 of the mixture, but a margin of 10% is needed.

To prepare concrete solutions with my own hands, you should buy material, given the proportion of 1: 2: 3 (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel) or 1: 6 (cement, a mixture of crushed stone and sand). Required amount material is calculated from the formula for multiplying the surface area of ​​the room and the required thickness of the screed.

Foundation preparation

Preparation of a wooden floor for a coupler.

First of all, the boardwalk is carefully examined. If there are damaged ones, they should be replaced, and partially destroyed ones can be turned over. Back boards are fastened with nails. When installing a log with a step of more than 40 cm, it is recommended to additionally use support bars. So that the nails do not break the plastic film in the future, their hats are heated in the boards by 2-3 mm.

Old skirting boards need to be dismantled. It is recommended to make the sealing of the cracks that have appeared at the junction of the floor and the wall thin wooden planks. After filling, they will need to be removed. This will provide natural ventilation. wooden base and prevent it from rotting.

If the wooden base has small gaps, sealant or parquet putty on wood dust is used for sealing. For self cooking putty should take 4 volumes of sawdust and 1 part of oil paint.

If the cracks are deeper, it is better to resort to mounting foam.

Priming and marking

After the preparatory treatment of the base, it is cleaned from dust and debris. If necessary, polishing of boards is carried out. A primer is applied to the cleaned surface. This processing will create protective layer, which prevents the appearance of bubbles, the absorption of moisture from the cement mixture, the appearance of fungus and mold.

Marking is carried out in the usual or laser level. Zero point can be at any height. It is recommended to put several marks on each of the walls at a distance of 35 to 70 cm from the floor, taking into account the thickness of the future screed. Then the marking is carried out in the reverse order - from the points on the wall to the floor. In both cases, a line is drawn using a level. The line of future alignment is determined by subtracting the thickness of the screed from the minimum measurement.

It is important to note that the standard thickness of the screed should be ± 5 cm. At the same time, each 1 cm of concrete exerts a pressure of 100-110 kg / m2. Therefore, the logs need to be strengthened with bars or metal channels.

Reinforcement

The most popular are two methods of reinforcement - metal mesh and fiberglass:

1. Arrangement technology is carried out unconventional method. A layer of concrete without beacons is immediately poured. A break of 1 month is made for solidification. Then the mesh is laid, beacons are installed and the second layer is poured. This technology avoids unwanted punctures in the waterproofing film.
2. Reinforcement with fiberglass differs from the above method. The reinforcing material is added directly to the concrete solution at the stage of its preparation. A feature of the fiber: its molecules are arranged in a chaotic manner, therefore, when interacting with the molecules of the cement mixture, the material is strengthened in all directions. The use of fiberglass significantly reduces total weight concrete pavement, therefore, reduces the pressure on the wooden deck.

During the construction or repair of a private house, the owner is forced to look for answers to many questions - what materials to use in the construction of walls and finishes, by what methods to produce construction works how to protect the building from the inside and outside from negative impacts etc. Among them is the problem of flooring - how and from what to make it. One of the most popular options at the moment is a concrete floor in a private house. And how to equip it in two main options - on the ground and on the floors - you will learn in this article.

Let's start by looking at the advantages and disadvantages of using concrete to create flooring in private construction. The advantages of the floor of this material are as follows.

Also, every owner of a private house should be aware of some of the disadvantages associated with the use of a concrete floor.

Tools you need to create your own concrete floor

Before considering step by step instructions on arranging a concrete mortar coating, we will present a list of tools that the master will need to complete this work.

Table. Concrete floor in a country house - tools for work.

Tool name	What is it used for
	Mixing concrete from the main components.
	Leveling of soil, sand and gravel, mixing of concrete, excavation of earth for a floor pit on the ground floor.
	Storage and handling of cement and other concrete components.
	Soil compaction, as well as sand and gravel pads to create reliable support concrete slab.
	Control of the position of beacons, drawing markings before starting work on arranging the concrete floor.
	Giving smoothness and evenness to the newly formed concrete screed.
	Working with small volumes of mortar, initial leveling of concrete for floor screed.
	Elimination of small cavities with air in the thickness of uncured concrete screed.
	Transportation of sand, cement and other bulk building materials.
	Cleaning seized concrete from "cement milk".

Important! When working with floors large area it is more expedient not to mix all the concrete yourself, but to order it together with a mixer truck - the time savings will cover the increased costs.

Do-it-yourself concrete floor on the ground - step by step instructions

When arranging the floor on the first floors of private houses, one of the most popular options today is to create a concrete pavement directly on the ground, without laying any floors. To begin with, consider the conditions under which such work should be done. Next, let's move on to a description of the main stages of creating a concrete floor on the ground.

Concrete floor installation on the ground

Concrete pavement, equipped on the ground, consists of several layers different materials, each of which performs a specific task. The first layer is the soil itself. It must be dry and well packed. Pillows of sand and gravel are poured over it - they are necessary for additional leveling of the surface and distribution of point loads over the area. Also, these layers help to reduce the effect of heaving of the soil, which manifests itself with temperature changes. In some cases, when creating a simplified concrete floor, only sand is poured over the ground, without a gravel pad.

Important! It should be understood that a concrete floor on the ground is allowed only under certain conditions - the groundwater level should be located at a depth of 4-5 m or more, and the ground should not be waterlogged. Also, various movements and heaving of the soil at the construction site should be minimal, otherwise such a coating will quickly become unusable.

Further, if a large load on the floor is implied, a draft is placed concrete pavement. On top of it is placed a film for vapor and waterproofing, insulation. The latter, as a rule, is extruded polystyrene foam. high density. A finishing concrete screed with a thickness of 30-50 mm or more is created on top of them, reinforced with a reinforcing mesh.

Preparing and taking measurements

After purchasing materials and missing tools, you need to prepare construction site. To begin with, clean it of debris that will interfere with work - stones, vegetation, pieces of brick and other unnecessary things. Further, if walls have already been erected, mark the lowest point of the doorway in the room - this is the level of your future floor. If necessary, make an adjustment for the thickness of the finish coating in the form of parquet, tiles or linoleum.

Now you need to make a solid line around the perimeter of the room, indicating the level of the concrete screed. For convenience, first make it at a height of 1 m from the bottom edge of the doorway, and then repeat this pattern below - where the floor on the ground will end. After that, with a shovel, remove the earth to the depth of all layers of the coating you are creating.

Soil compaction, adding a layer of sand and insulation

Now let's move on from preparation to step by step description arrangement of all layers of the concrete floor on the ground.

Step 1. Level the soil with a shovel and rake so that it lies more or less evenly over the area. Remove the stones from it if you see it.

Step 2 Compact the soil in the place where the concrete floor will be equipped. Most often, a manual tamper is used for this - with this tool they bypass the surface with a “snake”, evenly tapping on the ground with effort. If necessary, repeat this step two or three times.

Important! In the absence of a factory-made manual rammer, it can be made independently from improvised materials located on the site. For this, both a piece of log with a manual and metallic profile with sufficiently heavy and thick steel sheet.

Step 3 Prepare sand for backfill. To create a pillow for a concrete screed, use high-quality material with a minimum amount of foreign inclusions. Pour sand into the area where the floor will be built, and evenly distribute over the area. The minimum allowable layer thickness is 10 cm.

Step 4 Spread the sand over the area more evenly using a rake.

Step 5 As in the case of soil compaction, take a manual or mechanical rammer and “snake” along the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future floor.

Step 6 Pour water over the sand - so it will become denser and it will be possible to compact it even better.

Step 7 Again, walk with the rammer over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sand cushion. If necessary, repeat this operation until there are no deep footprints left on the sand - only in this state will it be sufficiently compacted for a concrete screed.

Advice! To achieve the best condition of the sand cushion after tamping, align it with the horizon using a rule or just a fairly even wooden board.

Step 8 Lay polyethylene or any other suitable film on a sand cushion to create a layer of vapor and waterproofing. “Neighboring” segments of the film are overlapped with each other, which should be at least 5-10 cm - thus, the likelihood of moisture or water vapor penetrating through this layer from the soil to the concrete screed is reduced.

Advice! If the arrangement of the concrete floor on the ground is carried out with walls not yet erected and on the site strong wind, then temporarily protect the film from blowing off with boards or other objects.

Step 9 Lay a layer of insulation on top of the vapor and waterproofing, for which use high-density polystyrene foam. As a rule, working with it is not very difficult - individual panels can be easily adjusted to each other. If necessary, they can be cut with ordinary construction knife with retractable blade. When laying insulation, remember that rows of plates are joined according to the same principle as bricks with laminate - transverse seams should not be in the same line.

Pouring concrete pavement

After creating the auxiliary layers of the floor, we proceed to a step-by-step description of the arrangement of the most important part of the structure - the concrete screed.

Step 1. Prepare and mount a reinforcing mesh over the insulation. Using plastic props, slightly raise it so that it remains in the lower half of the concrete layer - the reinforcement will take on the tensile loads concrete slab on an elastic base of insulation and a sand cushion.

Step 2 Mix a sufficiently dense cement mortar to secure the beacons. They can be made from ordinary steel or aluminum profile, cut to the width of the room. Each beacon is fixed at several points, each of which is a small amount of a dense solution. The interval between beacons must be less than the length of the rule. The optimal figure is 70 cm.

Step 3 Wait until the cement mortar holding the beacons dries.

Step 4 Mix concrete, its grade should be at least M150. At the same time, try to minimize the amount of water used - this way you will achieve high quality material and a small number of cracks and microcracks formed during solidification. It will not be superfluous to add special plasticizers when mixing concrete into the mixer, which can be purchased at any large hardware store.

Important! Some craftsmen, when mixing concrete, use liquid detergent as a budget replacement for specialized plasticizers.

Step 5 Place the mixed concrete between the beacons and make the initial leveling with a trowel. Then take the rule and form the most even surface possible, corresponding to the level of the lighthouses. Work with small areas concrete. Having completed with one of them, repeat the same steps - lay out the material, level it with a trowel and finally bring the surface to a smooth state using the rule.

Step 6 Cover the concrete with plastic wrap to protect it from fast drying- otherwise, the risk of a large number of microcracks or cracks, but large enough, increases. In some cases, it is allowed to moisten the concrete screed with a small amount of water. Wait for the mixture to gain strength and harden, and then apply a layer of self-leveling self-leveling floor - this way you get a perfectly flat surface suitable for any type of finish.

Important! When unnecessarily in large numbers water in concrete, it, going outside, washes out a certain amount of cement. During drying, it remains on the surface in the form of a crust. light color, also known as "cement milk". It must be cleaned off, otherwise the coating under it will have less strength and durability than it should.

Video - Do-it-yourself floors on the ground

Video - Floating floor screed. Types of solutions, pouring methods, nuances and subtleties

Floating screed on the floor in a private house - differences from the floor on the ground

According to the process of its creation, a concrete screed on floors has no serious differences from what was stated in the previous section of the article. But there are a few nuances that you need to be aware of.

When creating a concrete floor in your cottage on your own, remember that only strict adherence to technologies and standards will provide you with a reliable and strong coating that will be able to last for decades.

While doing repair work or building a house Special attention is given, of course, to the floor and directly to the material itself from which it is installed. Experienced and knowledgeable experts say with confidence that the concrete floor in a wooden house is the most reliable and at the same time extremely durable. Smooth and extremely durable, and most importantly, very dry and of high quality, it is just the perfect base for the subsequent installation of any reliable ceramic tiles and special flooring of absolutely any kind of floor coverings. In addition, this view, made in a private wooden house, is considered the most optimal and most the best option The that is executed when the tree is replaced.

The concrete floor in a wooden house is the most reliable and durable than other floors.

Mounting materials

To perform the laying of a concrete floor in a wooden house, you should carefully prepare for this and prepare the materials required to complete this process. To perform the installation, you will need materials such as:

• special level;
• slats of a certain length;
• cord and nails for screeding;
• sand and gravel;
• small wooden pegs;
• polyethylene film;
• concrete solution.

Stages of work

As you know, during the construction of private houses, floors are laid after the walls and ceiling are completely ready. Such a concrete floor is laid directly on the ground. As a rule, the whole process consists entirely of several different stages:

For the floor level from the very base of the doorway at a height of about 1 m, it is worth making a special mark and then making a special line along this very level.

1. Level definition. For exact definition level, you must first thoroughly clean the base from extra dirt and garbage. If there are various communications and laid cables under the floor, they are immediately isolated or laid in special prepared gutters. Next is to set the level for the future floor. To do this, directly from the very base of the doorway at a height of about 1 m, it is worth making a special mark and then making a special line directly along this very level, running exactly along the perimeter of the entire room. From the previously received markup, approximately 1 m is again measured exactly down, and immediately after that, another additional line must be drawn. All this will serve as the level of the future mounted floor. Then, at a certain level of laying the screed itself into the wall, it is imperative that you first hammer in the nails and carefully pull a tight cord between them. This special label will certainly show to what level the execution should reach. concrete base.
2. To lay gravel directly into the ground itself, special wooden pegs are hammered in several rows. These special rows must necessarily go exactly along the walls and right in the center of the room itself. Their top must be strictly located at a height of 100 mm below the pre-tensioned cord. The height of these built-in pegs will directly determine the required thickness of the concrete layer. It is best to start falling asleep directly with gravel soil from the farthest wall, and then carefully tamp the gravel itself. After that, special pegs are removed. The level of gravel must certainly be even.
3. gravel after all necessary work it is carefully covered with a rather large layer of sand, which is also necessarily compacted after that, and its surface is carefully and perfectly smoothed.
4. In order to indispensably ensure comfort, coziness and dryness in the future, a polyethylene film is preliminarily mounted on the layer of special sand to be laid, the layer thickness should be approximately 250 mm. At the same time, its edges need to be slightly raised above the level of the resulting future floor.
5. For the subsequent laying of concrete, the room in which the installation is carried out must first be divided into several parts using special rails or small boards, the length of which is no more than two meters long. Moreover, during direct installation, the uppermost surface of these laid rails must certainly correspond to the level of tightly stretched cords, after which this cord must be removed upon completion of work. The concrete floor in the house should be started from the farthest corner of the room. The level of carefully poured this concrete must certainly be slightly higher than the main level of the rails.
6. The very last step in creating a durable and high-quality concrete base is its preliminary leveling. This can be done using a special rail-rule, the length of which is no more than two meters, moving it along the laid rails and moving it towards you. So, they gradually move towards the door, while removing the laid slats in already well-aligned places and filling the voids with concrete.

The final stage of installation

After the final stage of laying the concrete floor, you should definitely try to cover each individual strip with a special film and then leave it to harden for about three or four weeks, while periodically moistening the entire surface of the concrete from time to time.

To complete all the work performed, it is necessary to apply a certain layer of the completed screed in an even layer on a high-quality and densely laid concrete base of the floor. This excellent process begins directly with the application of a certain special liquid, liquid in consistency to the concrete. cement mortar, in which the necessary high-quality and durable special concrete binders are added immediately before laying. After everything is ready, it is worth installing small wooden slats, the height of which must at the same time correspond to the direct height of the entire completed future floor.

The screed is laid in stages, as in the case of concrete. After direct laying of a high-quality and reliable screed, which will be slightly higher than a certain level of the laid rails, it must be carefully leveled, and then the laid rails themselves should be immediately removed. The surface of the screed after all the work carried out is very carefully and well smoothed with a special trowel. After the entire screed is completely ready, it must be left to dry overnight, and then periodically spray such a screed with water for several days.

Before proceeding with further work, it is recommended to withstand the screed for exactly two weeks.

Replacing wood flooring

As you know, directly in private houses of rather old and dilapidated buildings, the base of the floor is carefully laid logs. These are special wide bars that are laid directly on the ground itself or on the sand. After that, a layer of special building boards, on which the boards of the floor itself are laid out directly.

However, over time, such wooden floors can significantly deform, and even creak after that, and the laid boards themselves can rot very badly. To quickly and easily eliminate this trouble that has arisen, you can immediately use the most various ways replacement of such a damaged floor.

However, it is better to resort to the best and most reliable, albeit rather radical method, namely, to lay a concrete floor in such a house.

The technology for replacing a wooden floor does not require any special knowledge and skills, which is why it is quite possible to make a high-quality, durable and reliable concrete floor with your own hands. To do this, it is only necessary to first completely disassemble the old and dilapidated wooden floor and rotten boards. If the lag itself is damaged, they will also have to be completely removed. If the logs themselves are in a fairly good and normal condition, then there are gaps located between such boards and carefully pour a small layer of sand or very fine gravel on top of them. Next, we make a screed of a wooden floor.

They usually do it in a wooden or frame house. Wooden logs floors rest on the ground or the ends of the log (beams) hang on the walls of the foundation or basement of the house.

Wooden floors on the first floor less durable, afraid of moisture, not sufficiently resistant to mechanical stress, have low soundproofing ability. On these floors it is difficult to make a full-fledged warm floor. There are problems when installing floors in wet rooms of wooden or frame house- bathroom, boiler room, etc.

The device of the basement reinforced concrete floor beneficial only for a house with a basement.

For a private house without a basement The most advantageous construction of the floor of the first floor is the installation of a concrete floor on the ground. When choosing such a design for wooden and frame houses there is a prejudice that the proximity of the ground to the lower crowns and beams of wooden walls, the lack of sufficient ventilation in these nodes will contribute to the accumulation of moisture and rotting of wooden parts.

For the above reason, developers who build a house for themselves experience certain difficulties in choosing the design of the floor junction on the ground, with a foundation (basement) and wooden walls Houses.

The figure below suggests a variant of a concrete floor on the ground for a wooden (log, lumber) or frame house.

wooden or frame house with concrete floors on the ground. The foundation of the house is shallow, with protection of heaving soil from freezing

Here, the designers tried to make the knot as open and ventilated as possible. In addition, in the zone of contact between the tree and the plinth, a thermal regime is provided, which excludes condensation in this place.

From monolithic concrete. A brick plinth is arranged between the foundation strip and the wall of the house.

The use of bricks for plinth construction is due to two reasons:

• Brick has a lower thermal conductivity than concrete.
• In the plinth there is a thermal insert made of extruded polystyrene foam. It is easier and more convenient to perform masonry with an insert than to embed it in concrete.

To protect the soil at the base of the foundation from freezing, vertical and horizontal thermal insulation is used. Distinctive feature node is that the layers of thermal insulation are located inside and under the foundation tape. The dimensions of the thermal insulation indicated in the figure are selected for the climate conditions of the Moscow region.

The figure below shows a heat map of this node, which shows the distribution of temperatures in the soil and in the structures of the house in the design mode.

The heat map shows the distribution of temperatures in the ground and in the structures of the house. The temperature of the soil under the sole of the foundation is close to zero degrees.

How to make the concrete floor itself on the ground can be found in another article -

Wood floors are rarely leveled with concrete. According to the firmly entrenched opinion of builders, it makes no sense to place an overly heavy monolithic slab on a wooden floor. The wooden base and the concrete layer do not coexist very “friendly”, both during the solidification period and during operation, which is why the predominant number of specialists recommend preferring dry leveling schemes. However, those wishing to put in washing department tiles or underfloor heating are still looking for ways in which a concrete floor screed can be poured over a wood base. There are methods, and they have specific features.

The nuances of working with a wooden floor

Wood is a special material, which, in addition to a mass of technological advantages, has one significant drawback. It is not static, even after construction, lumber continues to “live” according to their own laws. Fluctuations in the level of humidity, changes in the temperature background make scaffolding increase and decrease in volume, shrink in height, stretch and contract in a linear dimension. For this reason, after the construction of the log house, they do not carry out a fine finish for two years.

Attention. Pouring concrete mortar over a new wooden floor is strictly prohibited. Leveling with concrete is possible only after 3-4 years of operation.

Wooden structures continue to move even after the completion of two years of post-construction shrinkage, although without the same agility. Equipped with underfloor heating systems, wooden floors set in motion every switch-on with subsequent shutdown.

Unlike lumber, artificially created stone plate slightly changes the geometric parameters in a linear direction during the hydration period. After complete solidification, the concrete layer does not show any tendency to move at all. If they were in a tight bundle, the instability of the "frisky" wood would cause crumbling cracks in the concrete. Here, in order to allow each of the structural elements to act according to their characteristic principles, without harming each other, an alignment technology was invented that was not connected with the base and with the walls.

Technological principle of concrete leveling

The essence of the technology, according to which a concrete screed is poured onto a wooden floor, is to create a boundary between the moving components of wood and monolithic slab. To do this, the leveling layer is cut off from the walls of the room to be equipped with a damper tape, and from the base with a plastic film. The result is a floating deck that is not connected to either the timber or log walls or the base. Thanks to this, the wooden elements of the structure can continue to move in any of the directions, and the screed lying like a tray will not crack and crumble from a continuous change in the position of the rough substrate.

Why use polyethylene film?

After all, contact with it negatively affects the wood, providing conditions for the flourishing of rot and fungus. Usually, in wooden structures, instead of this budgetary waterproofing, glassine, bituminous mastic, roofing material or new ones are used. roll materials with bituminous impregnation. The fact is that concrete absolutely does not stick to polyethylene, due to which:

• both the base and the screed will be able to “ride” along the insulating boundary;
• the concrete leveling layer will not pull polyethylene behind it, tear it and stretch it;
• the indestructible limit will remain inviolable, will not allow the wood to suck moisture from the hardening concrete, which is why shells form;
• concrete will not absorb moisture from the wood base, causing it to crack.

Note! Those who decide that a concrete floor screed will be laid with their own hands must definitely take care of the foundation itself and minimize the negative from contact with polyethylene. wooden elements structures before laying the waterproofing layer will need to be treated with an antiseptic and an Aquastop primer with water-repellent properties.

Floating screed technology

We figured out the principle, it remains to implement it. Traditionally, you need to start with preparation:

• we remove the boardwalk and carry out a thorough audit;
• we identify lags that do not inspire confidence, we irrevocably change everything that is unreliable;
• in case of insufficient bearing capacity of the lag system, we increase their number, that is, we install an additional beam so that the step between the lags becomes approximately 30-40 cm;
• we fasten the floorboards back, if they are in a suitable condition, it is better to turn over slightly damaged boards;
• We fill the gaps between the boards with sealant.

We have finished with the preparation, we keep the time indicated on the package of the sealed “putty”, and generously cover the wooden floor with waterproof primer, after which we let it hydrolyze.

On the walls we mark at an arbitrary height the zero level found by a conventional level gauge or laser device. This landmark can be located at an arbitrary height, approximately 30-70 cm from the plane of the dismantled coating. From the obtained points of the zero horizontal, we lay down equal distances, taking into account the thickness of the future concrete screed. It will be more convenient to immediately postpone the thickness of the floor covering, so that in case of exceeding the height, you can slightly reduce the thickness of the leveling layer.

Note. The standard thickness of a concrete floating slab is 5 cm. Please note that a layer of 1 cm will "fall" on 1 m² of a wooden floor with a weight of 100-120 kg. To withstand such pressure without strengthening the lag system wooden structure unable. If possible, builders recommend wooden beams generally change to a metal channel.

Insulation device for concrete leveling

Further actions on the installation of a leveling concrete screed are associated with the construction of cut-off insulating barriers between wooden details floor and future leveling layer. The result should be a kind of pallet made of water-resistant material:

• First, along the walls, we will create a fence from foamed polystyrene tape, attaching it around the perimeter of the room with a stapler, but better with tape. The width of the strip should be greater than the power of the screed being constructed, the thickness is 1-2 cm. This element, in addition to creating a barrier, will extinguish sound vibrations, and also provide the floating plate with the opportunity to slightly expand and lengthen. After laying the final coating, the excess protruding above the surface is cut off, and this technological gap is closed with a plinth or its venerable substitute - a 10 cm board with a galvanized ventilation grill.
• Then we lay polyethylene with a 15-20 cm overhang on the walls and with a 10 cm overlap on the previous strips.

Note. Folds, holes, punctures, especially holes in the waterproofing should not be. All further actions on the device of a concrete screed should also be carried out, trying not to pierce, tear, pierce the insulating layer. On accidentally appeared holes, you need to apply polyethylene patches.

It is desirable that the waterproofing layer has no joints at all, but if this could not be avoided, all joints with obligatory overlaps are firmly glued with adhesive tape. Perfect tightness of insulation is a guarantee great job leveling layer.

Construction of beacons for leveling

It is necessary to carry out these actions with special care, in no case using screws and nails. The best way- the formation of beds from a solution with the same composition and consistency as the future screed throughout the area to be equipped. A continuous strip of mortar will firmly press the polyethylene to the base and prevent it from warping and bulging when the master walks on the floor.

Note. Between the wall and the extreme bed, the distance should be 20-30 cm. A meter or 1.2 m should remain between the parallel ridges, so that leaning the rule on the beacons, it is convenient to level the screed.

We lay a metal profile on top of the constructed ridges and drown it in the mixture, reaching the previously marked height, that is, the level of the leveling layer. It is desirable to perform all actions for installing beacons one hour after mixing the mortar, until it begins to set.

The use of microfiber instead of reinforcement

A rather thick concrete layer needs reinforcement. Usually it was a metal mesh, tritely laid on the floor. I hope those who want to learn how to properly and reliably make a concrete screed on a wooden base have not forgotten that it is important to maintain the integrity of the separating insulation layer. Agree, it would be difficult to move on a metal mesh, and even work, without catching and not making a hole in polyethylene.

Recall that the reinforcement generally should not reinforce only the “bottom” of the alignment layer. Her place is in the body of concrete, and in order to achieve correct location, it would be necessary to fill the screed, at least in two steps:

• first layer first;
• then laying the grid with the installation of beacons and final pouring.

Those who are in the know and know perfectly well how long each layer of concrete screed will dry, this option must have puzzled. Between the first stages and the second it is necessary to withstand almost a month (28 days), and the same amount upon completion of all work.

In order not to turn floor leveling into a long-term epic, it is better to use fiberglass for strengthening. They are introduced into the concrete mixture during the preparation period. The random arrangement of polymer fibers will provide strong bonds in all possible directions. In addition, the mass of a heavy screed will be significantly reduced due to the rejection of traditional heavy fittings.

Direct pouring of concrete

Performed according to the traditional technological scheme. Depending on the area of ​​the forthcoming leveling, the mixture is filled with:

• or in turn each room, separated from the adjacent room by a kind of formwork - a partition from the board;
• or the entire area with the start of work from the wall opposite the front door.

A day after leveling on the lighthouses, these rails must be removed. Treat the furrows remaining from the profiles with soil, fill with mortar and level with a trowel.

The rules for maintaining a concrete screed and cement-sand leveling are similar. A day after pouring, the screed is abundantly moistened, then sprinkled with water daily for another week. For four days, a fresh concrete floor must be covered with polyethylene so that the screed is evenly parted with moisture throughout its entire capacity. It is necessary to ensure the stability and uniformity of the temperature background and the percentage of moisture in the air.

PCI Periplan Ready Leveling Video

It is also worth getting acquainted with the technological intricacies for those who independently take on the difficult task of arranging a screed concrete mortar, and those who decided to contact the builders. The result of non-compliance with the rules is the inevitable costly rework.