What is the best way to clean concrete floors? How to clean a concrete floor in a garage

garden equipment 29.08.2019
garden equipment

Cracks in concrete appear quite often. It happens by different reasons: due to wear of the material, increased loads or incorrect casting. However, it is quite possible to repair a cracked concrete floor. For this, you do not even need to hire specialists from outside. Do-it-yourself concrete floor repair is not at all like that difficult task as it might seem at first glance.

Any coating will break down over time. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor all the changes that occur and make repairs on time. In this case, the concrete floor or platform will last a long time and truly.

Stages of concrete repair

The work that is needed to bring cracked floors back to normal can be divided into 2 stages:

  1. Floor preparation.
  2. Applying fresh concrete patches over potholes.

Each stage will require care and accuracy in the performance of work. In addition, today there are many additives and special solutions that will help prepare the concrete floor for repairs, and then ensure the long life of the patches.

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Preparation of concrete floors: mechanical cleaning

Stages of repairing a concrete floor: preparing the floor for repair, applying cement to a crack.

In order to properly prepare a cracked concrete floor for the intended repair, it must first be cleaned of loose and loose pieces. This will require the following tools:

  1. Metal brush.
  2. Chisel.
  3. A hammer.
  4. Brush or broom for sweeping.

Work on preparing the concrete floor for repair is carried out in the following order:

  1. Cracks are treated with a metal brush to remove loose pieces.
  2. The problem area of ​​the floor is carefully swept.
  3. The edges of the cracks are tapped with a hammer to find places where there are hidden defects.
  4. With the help of a chisel and a hammer, cracks are filled (removal of defective edges and fragments).

Further, the sequence of actions depends on the size of the embroidered cracks. If their number is small, and the depth is not more than 5 cm, then mechanical cleaning of concrete floors can be dispensed with. In this case, the last step in preparing the concrete floors for repair will be to cover the cracks with a special compound. This is done in order to enhance adhesion (gluing) between the old floor covering and the concrete patch. Usually 3 types of compositions are used:

If dirt has eaten into the concrete, then it can be cleaned chemically or mechanically. If cracks form, they need to be patched.

  1. Acrylic primers for concrete.
  2. PVA primers.
  3. Epoxy compounds.

It should be noted that acrylic and PVA primers differ in the method of application from epoxy compounds. The first are applied exclusively on dry concrete. Filling of potholes is done only after the primers have dried. However, in the event that epoxy compounds are applied during the repair, the concrete must first be moistened. The patch is applied over the potholes before the epoxy dries. Acrylic and PVA primers can also be applied in two layers: this improves adhesion. Primers can be applied with a brush or roller.

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Preparation of floors for repair: chemical cleaning

If the number of cracks is too large or the crack depth is more than 5 cm, and the concrete surface crumbles literally at hand, mechanical cleaning cannot be limited to one.

A chemical cleaning must be carried out, which will not only reveal hidden micro-defects, but also help to avoid the appearance of a “cold joint” at the border of the old concrete floor and the new patch.

Diagram of the section of concrete to be removed.

It should be noted that tension always arises in the “cold joint” area due to difficulties in redistributing the load from upper layers concrete to the bottom. This greatly shortens the life of the patch. Do-it-yourself chemical cleaning (or chemical milling) of the floor is performed using special compounds. The most famous of them is "HIMFREZ Cleaner".

It should be noted that it is always used in conjunction with "HIMFREZ Activator", which is applied after the cleaner and enhances the setting between the old concrete and the fresh concrete patch. The first composition is designed to open concrete micropores, identify microdefects and remove the surface film, and the second to improve adhesion.

When using the activator, it is no longer necessary to cover the concrete with primers or epoxy compounds. Before starting the chemical treatment of concrete floors, you must first make a complete mechanical cleaning of the floor. It should also be noted that all work with the compositions of "HIMFREZ" must be carried out in compliance with the rules technical security. To do this, you will have to stock up in advance with a mask, glasses, a hat and work overalls. During operation, contact with the skin or mucous membranes should be avoided.

After mechanical cleaning, “Chimfrez” is applied to the crack

After mechanical cleaning“HIMFREZ Cleaner” is applied to the cracks. This is done with a brush. Then you need to wait exactly 1 hour, then quickly walk along the edges of the cracks with a metal brush.

If pieces begin to separate from the concrete, this means that there are many microcracks in the concrete that this composition has opened. In this case, you will have to re-treat the defect area with a cleaner. Then you need to wait another 1 hour and immediately start applying "HIMFREZ Activator" to the cracks. 1 hour after applying the activator, you can immediately proceed to the next stage of repair - patching.

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Concreting floor cracks

To perform this stage of repair, you will need the following tools and auxiliary materials:

The scheme of repairing a crack in the seam.

  1. Ready frames for cracks.
  2. Container for mixing cement-sand mixture.
  3. Sandpaper (large grit).

It should be noted that crack frames are usually made of wooden slats, with an edge no larger than 2 cm. The dimensions of the frames should be more sizes 2-3 cm cracks on each side. The process itself will not take long. First, a cement-sand mixture is kneaded. As a rule, the ratio of cement and sand is either 1:3 or 1:2. A mixture of 1:3 is used in cases where additives are added to cement that increase the wear resistance of the mixture. However, if you do not plan to use additives or plasticizers, it is better to choose a cement to sand ratio of 1:2.

The cement itself must be M400 or M500, otherwise the patches on the potholes will not last long. When mixing the mixture, attention should be paid to the details. Sand is desirable to choose fine or medium fraction, clean, without lumps and random large fragments. The water for mixing the mixture must also be clean, without the slightest impurities, as they lead to cracks in the supplied patches. However, too much water should not be added: the patch mixture should not drain from the shovel, but fall off it in large fragments.

In order for the repaired floor to last for a long time, reinforcing elements such as fiberglass or fiberglass can be added to the patch mixture. Both 900g and 600g fiber packs are available on the market, so purchasing a small amount of fibers is not difficult. When reinforcing fibers are added to the cement-sand mixture, the service life of the patches, their resistance to abrasion and impact resistance increase significantly. In addition, a plasticizer (complex additive) can be added to the mixture. For example, M5Plus, which is well combined with a reinforcing fiber and provides increased wear resistance of patches. The sequence of work when applying patches during repairs is as follows:

  1. Setting the frame.
  2. Application of cement to the area of ​​cracks.
  3. Removing the protruding upper part of the patch with a grinder (grinder) or sandpaper.

Removal of the protruding part of the patch should be done only after the cement has completely set. Considering that the thickness of the patch is relatively small, it is quite enough to wait 7 days and then process the patch with a grinder or sandpaper.

After the repair of the floors with your own hands is completed, you can walk on the floors with compounds that help protect concrete from corrosion. This procedure is called concrete dedusting. It uses thin-layer protective compounds(Elanor-PU, Neomer-LP, Amphora-formula) and polymeric protective compounds (Retroplay, Elanor-ED Primer, Elast-Pu). All of them are applied with a brush in 2 layers. The dust removal will help to further increase the service life of the repaired concrete floors. If desired, the delivered patches can be even more durable than the base on which they are placed.


Oil pollution

In our industrial time, many enterprises are operating, and a large number of them are opening. Concrete mixtures are used in the construction of the transport pavement. They are very reliable and resistant to stress.

Concrete is a mixture of several components: cement, sand, water, crushed stone, various additives and additives. how construction material he has proven himself very well, in connection with which he occupies a leading position in construction.

The oil is used in the manufacturing process for different areas. Depending on the properties and application, it can be divided into groups.

The most popular: motor, hydraulic, industrial, compressor, lubricating and other oils.

The interaction of concrete and oil is a regular process in any enterprise. Therefore, many people are interested in the process of removing pollution. How to clean a concrete floor from oil?

In order to begin to eliminate traces of pollution, it is necessary to determine its degree. If the oil stain has just appeared, then sorbents such as sand, sawdust or soda can be used. Simply cover the soil with an absorbent and wait for the reaction to take place. This method will remove the main problem, but traces of oil will remain. After that, you need to use detergents to scrub the stain.

The above method is suitable for fresh education. But in most cases, as a result of the intensity of work or the irresponsibility of the workers, the stain can stand for more than one hour or a day. This causes the oil to soak into the concrete floor and become difficult to remove. If you have a similar situation and you do not know how to clean the concrete floor from oil, then the following method will be useful for you.

Many firms face such a problem, making this issue relevant for manufacturers of industrial chemicals. For creating effective remedy many experiments and tests have been carried out. As a result, special chemical compositions, which quickly and efficiently remove traces of oil contamination. These products are used by cleaning companies and industrial cleaning experts.

The method of cleaning oil with industrial chemistry has a number of advantages. Because of this, it is gaining more and more popularity. In order to start the stain removal process, you just need to apply the product to the surface. The substance begins to be absorbed into the stain and the adjacent surface, destroying the oil molecules. The whole process takes a few minutes, which saves a lot of time. After the reaction has passed, you need to remove the resulting consistency with a rag. This cleaning method is fast, efficient and of high quality.

If you have not decided how to clean the concrete floor from oil, write to us, we will help you with the choice. Thank you for your attention.

During the operation of the concrete floor due to exposure external factors it is erased and then a myriad of dust appears in the room. In the event that the floor is more or less high quality, there will be a corresponding amount of dust. If we are dealing with low-quality concrete, then the situation becomes more complicated and the work process is delayed. Since we are dealing with dust, and housewives have been struggling with it for centuries, we need to take seriously the elimination of such a substance as dust. Concrete mainly consists of cement, cement, in turn, causes irreparable harm if it enters the respiratory tract. Consider several options when it is necessary to qualitatively dedust the floor:

  1. Firstly, when the concrete floor is laid directly;
  2. 2. When the concrete is already poured or if the concrete surface has been subjected to some kind of manipulation;
  3. 3. And thirdly, if this production room to protect the floor from damage.

How to remove dust from a concrete floor

You can go two ways in the fight against dust. One of them is impregnation concrete pavement. Impregnations are quite effective and differ in type:

  1. organic;
  2. inorganic.

The components of organic impregnations are acrylic, polyurethane. Impregnations are also used, which include epoxy resin. The principle of operation of the primer is to fill microcracks, porous formations.

Floor impregnation

Fluates are included in inorganic primers, they act beneficially on concrete. Thanks to him, all particles that could subsequently dissolve become insoluble. Due to this treatment, the floor will become more durable and stop dusting.

Both types of primer will not only remove dust from the surface, but also prolong its life. Now moisture, chemistry, and in the end, frost will not be so dangerous for them.

Preparatory work before applying impregnation to the concrete floor

Preparatory work before applying the impregnation, it is necessary to carry out in a certain order:

  • To begin with, the decks and underlays must be removed, they must be packed and removed. If your floor was covered with linoleum, carpet or laminate, and such coatings, we don’t read this paragraph further, move on to the next one. If you had parquet, then you need to wait a day for the dust that rose during the dismantling of the coating to settle;
  • Now we take the vacuum cleaner, it is better to do it twice. After waiting for some time between the first and second time. A powerful device will do just fine, but an industrial construction vacuum cleaner still remains a priority;
  • Let's move on to wet cleaning. We wash the surface in the usual way - with a mop and a rag. It is necessary to wash the floor twice;
  • We complete the process with dry cleaning. And again we take up the vacuum cleaner, the concrete dust will not give up so easily, we apply tough measures to it and vacuum it twice.

This information was not taken from the head, there is a normative act SNiP dated 03/02/2013 - 88 called “FLOORS. TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS AND RULES FOR DESIGN, DEVICE, ACCEPTANCE, OPERATION AND REPAIR"

Preparatory work

Before dusting, the floor is sanded for perfect evenness, and the next step is the second phase of dedusting. It is unforgettable that the most favorable temperature will be a temperature above five degrees Celsius. Concrete must be 90 percent dry - this will allow the impregnation to penetrate into the very depths of the floor.

Turning to normative document, do not forget that the surface of the concrete floor should be rough.

Impregnation of the concrete floor with fluate

If you will be painting the concrete floor, it is best to use an inorganic primer. How to do it better:

  • Fluate is a concentrated solution that we prepare before use. To do this, we take water and dilute at the rate of 200 ml per square meter. It is enough to pour the resulting mixture on the floor;
  • Now it is necessary to distribute evenly over the entire surface and rub until completely absorbed. You can use rubber brushes, scrapers. If the solution is prepared correctly, it will not dry for a long time, about twenty minutes. Then the excess is removed with a rag.

Painting the floor should begin no earlier than 24 hours later.

Applying mortar to the floor

organic impregnation for concrete floors

Primer based on polyurethane universal method impregnation. It enhances wear resistance, impact resistance, as well as water and chemical resistance. Penetrates to a depth of 3mm. The advantages include the use in frost, even at such low temperatures as 30 degrees Celsius.

Let's analyze the advantages of acrylic primers. They should be used in a room that is intended for a living room. Perhaps for the floor, which as a result will be covered with laminate or maybe parquet.

Concrete floor primer

Proteksil - this primer forms a high-strength surface, is indifferent to the effects of chemical reagents.

If for some reason you don't want to use a solvent, consider an epoxy based primer. Its dry residue will be one hundred percent.

Want to get a lacquered floor? Buy primer Azure. She attaches to the floor decorative look. This impregnation can be applied over any other.

Making the concrete floor as strong as possible

You need to harden the concrete floor. We will use a topping coating that will retain its original appearance for a long time in industrial and warehouse premises. With the help of a concrete smoothing machine, a special mixture is rubbed into the floor. The mixture is prepared from cement and other special substances. The choice of mixture quality depends on the expected loads. Thanks to this coating, we get a non-slip, water-repellent, heavy-duty floor. The final step will be grouting the surface.

concrete smoothing machine

Safety rules for hardening concrete floors

When working with impregnations, extreme caution must be exercised. They contain ruthless components. Use gloves that can withstand acid. Take a plastic container for raw materials. If product gets on skin, rinse with plenty of water.

Summing up

The use of impregnations for dedusting helps us get rid of many problems. Helps to keep clean everything that will subsequently stand on this floor. The floor does not gather dust, does not collapse. Good looking.

Video on dedusting a concrete floor

Repair in an apartment is worse than a nuclear war. Such an expression has a place to be in the conversations of people who started a major renovation of the apartment, deciding to change the wallpaper, update the ceilings, fix the plumbing and other things. Indeed, even at the final stage of the repair, when everything is pasted over / painted / whitewashed, there are still a lot of little things that will have to be spent both time and effort. This type of work also includes house cleaning. How to wash the floors after repair from white plaque? This question is asked by those who decide to resort to one of the old, but reliable ways to finish the ceiling - whitewashing.

Cleaning up after a renovation is no easy task. Fine and nasty dust resulting from construction works, you have to rake out from everywhere in large quantities. She gets stuck in upholstered furniture, settles on cabinets, sometimes clogs in the most inaccessible places.

Important! Fine building dust adversely affects human health. It settles in the respiratory system and often becomes the cause of the development of diseases. respiratory tract. Cough, pain in the lungs are frequent companions of those who are engaged in repairs and do not follow safety precautions, i.e. do not use personal protective equipment.

That is why it is important to remove all debris and dust as much as possible after the repair is completed. And also, before starting this large-scale operation, it is recommended to make some preparations that will protect the interior from dust and whitewash.

In the room where the work will be done, it is advisable not to leave anything - all the furniture is taken out, it is best to pack things in boxes or bags so that dust does not penetrate them even through small cracks. It is recommended to wrap the furniture itself plastic wrap, because even standing in another room, she will be "attacked" tiny particles building mixtures. What cannot be taken out is recommended to be wrapped with cling film, as it will not allow dust to get to the interior.

If it is planned to carry out such a procedure as whitewashing the ceiling, and there is already a new floor covering on the floor or it is not being replaced at all, as it will be used further, then the floors must be protected as much as possible. To do this, the base is covered with a dense film, which is then fixed along the baseboards with masking tape.

Important! If you neglect the fixation, then the film will crumple and there will be no sense from it. It is also important to glue all the joints of individual canvases with tape.

Some use ordinary old newspapers instead of film, but this method is not the most reliable. When wet, paper loses its strength and is easily torn. To protect the base as much as possible, it is recommended to lay newspapers in at least two layers. It is not recommended to use a cloth to cover the surface, as it will still pass all the fine dust through itself.

It is worth remembering that pollution, and especially whitewashing, is easier to prevent than to wash off all the consequences of your negligence later. Sometimes some coatings under the influence of white dust are hopelessly damaged.

Features of whitewash as a finishing material

Whitewashing is one of the cheapest and available options ceiling finishes, moreover - time-tested. Although this technology has now been partially superseded by more in modern ways design, yet it is still in demand, and all - thanks to its special advantages:

  • availability and low cost of the method;
  • the possibility of doing the work with your own hands without the involvement of craftsmen;
  • environmental friendliness and purity of the materials used;
  • strength, reliability, stability of the applied decorative layer;
  • a classic version of the design of an ordinary white ceiling.

Whitewashing can be done with either chalk or lime - these materials are available and always on sale, but are inexpensive.

Advice! If the ceiling has already been whitewashed, it is recommended to use the same material that was used previously to update the layer. That is, if top part the room was covered with lime, it is important to use the lime composition.

Whitewashing is exactly the material that most often leaves white coating on the surface of the floor after repair. It is sometimes very difficult to wash off, especially if it got to the wrong place, but, for example, on the floor. And during the repair, it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely avoid contamination of the base, even if you cover the entire room with a film. The fact is that protective covering can be easily damaged and all the dirt will fall onto the floor through the hole formed. It is unlikely that someone will pay attention to a small hole in polyethylene and immediately close it up in the process of work. That is why, when deciding to whitewash the ceiling, it is worth knowing how the process of washing the floors from it takes place.

In general, washing the floor after finishing repair work little different from regular cleaning. But often you have to use special solutions or components to cope with white spots on the base. Before we will talk about floor cleaners, we will share a few useful tips for cleaning the base:

  • do not use soda to wash linoleum- its impact will have a bad effect on the appearance of the coating;
  • paint and other similar liquids should be removed from the coating immediately- then it will be more difficult to wash them. The same goes for whitewash stains;
  • laminate and other similar coatings must not be rubbed with abrasive materials– you can damage the top protective layer;

  • Potassium permanganate cannot be used on varnished surfaces.- stains will appear on the floor;
  • it is best to wash all stains after the initial treatment of the floor– sweeping and wet cleaning;
  • it is better to wash the floors from the wall farthest from the door, moving towards the exit, so as not to stomp on the freshly washed surface;
  • water during mopping after repair is recommended to be changed as often as possible- this way it will be possible to quickly cope with corrosive pollution and avoid stains, which especially often appear during the washing of whitewash.

How to wash the floor after whitewashing?

To remove white plaque from the floor, you will have to be patient and purchase a few tools that make the job easier. You will also need ordinary water, a couple of rags, a mop.

Methods for removing white deposits and streaks from the floor differ depending on the type floor covering. Let's consider each option in more detail.

How to wash parquet after repair?

- the coating, although reliable, is very delicate. It does not like to come into contact with water - due to its effect, the coating loses its beautiful and noble appearance may swell. That is why it is not recommended to moisten it abundantly. Consider the easiest way to wash whitewash and white deposits from parquet.

Table. Means for the fight against whitewashing on the parquet.

Meansa brief description of

Having dissolved a little of this agent in water, the parquet is carefully processed with a cloth soaked in the solution. The composition easily copes with water-soluble types of stains - putty, construction dirt, including whitewash.

Before using these products, it is recommended to wipe the parquet with a clean, damp cloth. After this oil is dissolved in cool water in a ratio of 1:100. The parquet is washed with the resulting composition - the whitewash will be removed very easily. After that, the floors are wiped with a weak vinegar solution.

Suitable for heavy soiling. Dissolves in a bucket of water (5 l) in the amount of 100-150 g. The resulting solution is treated with contaminated floors. The method removes stains well. It is important to ventilate the room well after finishing work, and wipe the floors with a weak vinegar solution - it will help to cope with the smell of kerosene.

Important! Parquet does not like the effects of aggressive chemicals, so you can work on it only with soft compounds. It can be methyl alcohol, white spirit, kerosene. But still, before using them, it is better to check on an inconspicuous area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe parquet how the material will react to contact with the selected agent.

Parquet should not be rubbed with coarse abrasive materials. Neither metal brushes nor coarse scrapers are suitable for processing it. They will simply ruin the coating by scratching the protective top layer.

How to clean laminate from whitewash?

Laminate is a coating that, like parquet, does not like water very much. Excessive moisture will adversely affect this type of coating, so use water in in large numbers cannot be washed. Although in general, this type of finishing material for finishing the floor is quite durable and reliable. But still, you need to clean it carefully, otherwise you can damage the outer protective layer. And without it, the material will become subject to all types of mechanical and physical impact, as a result of which its service life will drastically decrease.

With whitewash stains on the laminate, a solution of vinegar 1 - tbsp will help to cope. l. dissolves in a bucket of water with a volume of 5 liters. After that, a soft rag (preferably made of microfiber) is moistened with the resulting solution and carefully squeezed out - the liquid should not flow from it. Then the floors are processed damp cloth. The final step is washing the laminate with plain water.

Important! The rag should be rinsed in vinegar solution as often as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to remove pollution.

Just like parquet, laminate can be processed vegetable oil. It is diluted in warm water in a ratio of 1:100. After treating the laminate with this compound, it is wiped with vinegar diluted in water (2 tablespoons per 5-liter bucket).

On a note! Vinegar can be replaced with citric acid.

Another tool for removing white plaque from a laminate is a solution of ordinary table salt. The main thing is not to dilute it in large quantities in water, otherwise stains may remain on the floor. The optimal consumption is 0.5 cups of salt per bucket of water. After treatment with this composition, the floor is wiped with a clean chopper moistened with plain water.

Linoleum is a less capricious material than parquet or laminate, but it also deserves careful care and handling. For example, in no case should you rub it with a stiff brush - you can damage it. But whitewash stains from such a coating are easiest to remove.

Linoleum is not afraid of water, so any white spots and plaque can be washed off with a well-moistened cloth. The main thing is that the water is clean and warm. It is always better to rinse a rag with plenty of water to avoid streaks. Better yet, change the water in the bucket to fresh as often as possible.

If stains from linoleum are not wiped off with water and a rag, then you can use a little turpentine or add it to a bucket of water laundry soap. Perhaps the last option is the best.

Good for removing whitewash stains from linoleum and salt. It is used in the same way as in the case of the laminate.

It is worth remembering that linoleum should not be tried to be cleaned with gasoline, ammonia and the like. Due to such improper processing, the coating will quickly fade.

Ceramic tile is a material that can be said to have been tested for centuries. It has been used in construction and decoration for many years and won the love of masters for a reason. It is durable, reliable, not afraid of moisture and practically does not react to chemical substances while remaining inert. That is why it is so often used for finishing floors, especially in the bathroom, kitchen, bathroom - that is, where the humidity is always high, and the floors are treated using various chemical compounds.

It will not be difficult to wash white plaque from such a coating - you can use absolutely any of the above methods, since they will not bring harm to the tile. Also, tiles can be washed with water in any quantity.

How to wash the floor after repair

Step 1. It is recommended to clean the floor surface before cleaning from foreign objects. Interior items are removed (it is recommended to completely remove them from the room), film and newspapers that protected it from pollution, but damaged, as well as all construction debris. Before cleaning, it is recommended to clean the things in the room before washing the floor. Otherwise, the surface of the floor covering will have to be washed again.

Step 2 Large debris is removed from the floor surface - floors can be swept with a broom or brush. If the floors are not swept first, then washing will be quite a challenge.

Step 3 5 liters of water are poured into a bucket. It should be warm or cool, depending on the type of flooring. However hot water you should not use it - rinsing a rag or mop in it will be uncomfortable. Next, the agent selected from the above is added to the water.

Step 4 The mop is well wetted in the prepared solution. Excess water is squeezed out.

Step 5 The floor is mopped. Visually, it can be divided into several sectors and washed each section separately. Corners, joints near walls and heavily polluted places are washed especially carefully.

Step 6 It is important to rinse the rag as often as possible, and change the water to fresh. This will reduce the risk of divorce. Also, after treating the floor with a detergent composition, it is recommended to rinse its surface with clean water.

Video - Cleaning the floor after repair

Prices for popular cleaning products

FLAT Linoleum cleaner

Video - How to remove grout from tiles

Cleaning after repair is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure. But with the use of different compositions and folk remedies things will go faster. And if you choose the right technique, then white plaque can be removed without difficulty.

First, is it cement or concrete? Many people use these words as synonyms. Who knows where the difference is?

Cement

Cement is a powder made from substances such as lime, clay, shale, sand, iron, aluminum and other materials. It is also a key ingredient used in concrete.

Concrete

Concrete solid material which you end up with after mixing cement, sand and water. Thus, you have to clean the concrete floor of the garage, and nothing else.

Some people think they're amazing because they can keep the garage floor clean, much cleaner than, say, a neighbor's, but even they can't protect the floor from a couple of random stains that can always be found here and there.

If your husband craves a clean concrete garage floor, below are some cleaning solutions made specifically for removing stains from concrete and, of course, tips for fixing them.

Keep your concrete garage floor clean

If you have any oil stains or spilled drink, remove those first (you may have to start this process a day or two in advance). In the instructions below you will find ways to deal with stains of oil, gasoline and other deposits from the surface of hardened concrete floors.

You need to clean the garage floor from the beginning of the day so that you can put everything back in the garage by the end of the day. Before you wash the concrete floor, remove everything that can be removed from the garage, and then sweep it.

Turn the water on full blast and spray it on the concrete. If you do not have a good spray nozzle on garden hose, press it down with your finger to obtain a jet of pressurized water. Start at the back of the garage and continue towards the exit.

Use a stiff, long-handled brush to clean the concrete floor after doing the above.

Difficult ground stains, for example, can be easily removed with any abrasive powder, whether it's Comet, Mr. Proper, Domestos, Pemolux, or something else, as long as the floor is wet.

Rinse the concrete floor with a hose. Remove excess water with a broom.

Recipes for Cleaning a Concrete Garage Floor

1 glass detergent(Cinderella, Progress, Ideal, Minute, Pril, Pemosuper, Help, Fairy (Fairy), Aos (Aos), Drop, Sorti (Sorti), Forsage (Fast and Furious), Bref (Bref), Dr Max (Dr. Max), and others.) 6 liters of hot water.

Let concrete floor dry completely before you put everything back in a clean garage. If you spill oil on a concrete floor, clean it up right away.

First, let's be clear: oil stains must be removed immediately, at all times and under all circumstances. Now you have a clean garage, keep that in mind.

We would recommend keeping a supply of paper towels on hand. They are thick, highly absorbent with just the right amount of firmness, and are great for picking up any spills.

In the event that you spilled a little oil, they will come in handy. Otherwise, use whatever absorbent material is available to clean up the spill.

Use cat litter to collect any remaining oil.

If you simply rub the oil stain, some oil may remain on the surface. To remove this "little bit", use cat litter. Make sure to use crumbs, it's a great absorbent and will also help you remove any remaining oil stains.

If you are using filler, cover the spill area completely.

Leave the litter for some time, from several hours to several days, to allow it to absorb the liquid, the time varies depending on the amount of oil spilled. Remove dry debris with a broom.

Note: As mentioned above, this process can take up to several days. You may need to update the filler. You can also use sawdust or baking soda to absorb oil and gasoline.

You could see on the roads where the accident happened, how tow truck drivers use cat litter to remove the oil stain from the road surface. Isn't it the most best review in favor of its effectiveness?

You can ask at the gas station what they use to keep industrial concrete floors clean. And they will tell you that they use fine cat litter. They sprinkle it on any gasoline and oil stains, leave it overnight, and then sweep it up in the morning.

There are a few things you could try to remove stubborn oil and gasoline stains. These methods may require repetition and take up to several days.

Detergents and water

First of all, you need to clean the concrete floor of the garage from dry dirt. Sprinkle laundry detergent over the stain, there is no need to skimp, completely cover the stain.

Add warm water to a bucket, dampen a stiff brush, and scrub back and forth. Repeat as needed. Wipe the area and let it dry.

How to clean a concrete floor without water

Waterless cleaners can be purchased at any hardware store. Clean up the stained area, remove dry dirt and debris.

Sprinkle the waterless cleaner over the stained area (follow instructions). If the stain covers large area or very old, you will need to reapply the product every 5-7 days until the stain disappears.

Let's say you left your car in the garage for a few days. And while she was standing in the garage, a little oil dripped from the car onto the concrete floor.

Suppose the stain remains and has aged. After the first application of a waterless cleaner, you will notice a clear improvement. The stain will become much lighter.

We also recommend wearing a paper mask and goggles. A breath of wind is enough and the cleaning agent will turn into a small cloud of dust. You may read on the product label that it causes eye and throat irritation. You don't want to check it out own experience, believe me.

Removal of old stains

It is possible to remove an old oil stain, for this, the method of local moistening is used. You can try it as an experiment, but as a rule, there are results.

To do this, you need to use a stain remover, a stiff brush and time. Pour the stain remover onto the stain. Enough to cover the stain completely.

Then scrub with a very hard brush - something like a kitchen wire brush for cast iron pan, For example. This may take 15-20 minutes, but you will see some result, although the stain will most likely not be removed the first time.

After you've finished rehydrating the stain, dust it with a waterless concrete cleaner and scrub the floor with a stiff brush (use back and forth and left to right, alternately). By doing this, you can remove the old gasoline or oil stain.

It makes sense to repeat the procedure in the evening, leave the waterless product overnight again and then remove it in the morning.
Keep in mind that the technique may vary depending on the stain and its complexity, as well as the impact on the stain, say, sun rays etc.

With these solutions, you can clean your concrete garage floor and make it look like new.

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