Wooden tour with your own hands. How to make scaffolding with your own hands

During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repair

Scaffolding is widely used in construction and repair. Even the usual do-it-yourself wall plastering it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily put together goat-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs - the main benefit from scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so that their cost can be entered in the column "payment for the speed and convenience of repair."

Any design of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, building and consumables placed on them. If there is even the slightest doubt that scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.

Scaffolding classification

The term "forests" itself is associated with the historical experience of finishing facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "shelves" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to posterity only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are made taking into account reusable use. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:

• Pin scaffolding - made of steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and clumsy, it takes a lot of time to assemble and move - but very strong. For example, stone or brickwork is best done from them. A large amount of heavy building materials can be loaded onto pin scaffolding, they are very stable and durable;
• Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and / or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a solid frame. They may have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plaster or balcony siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
• Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. Withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. Fastener nodes are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
• Clamp scaffolding - universal structures of small carrying capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
• Suspended - the well-known "cradles", with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. Between two stationary scaffolding, a structure without ground support can also be suspended.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material - the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step by step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

To work, you will need several types of wood. Bearing supports are made of timber 10x10 cm in size (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from scaffolding). Horizontal floorings are knocked together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Fencing rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms should be free of knots and cracks, it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Frame planning

The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports from a 10x10 cm beam that are solid, and not composite - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum allowable width of homemade wood scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise the risk of overturning the scaffolding during operation is high. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a planer, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Building the frame

Two beams with a height of not more than 6 meters are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two fit right next to each other. The upper part of the bars should slightly converge upwards for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding down below convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then from above it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapeziums.

Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, self-made wooden scaffolding can have no more than three "mounting floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar. Three correspond to the levels of the forests, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a three-dimensional frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (and preferably two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the docking accuracy will certainly suffer. Side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable forests should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required angle of convergence is small, otherwise an uncomfortable gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.

Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a barn or garage.

Step 5: Final and optional

It remains to nail boards for flooring and a fence above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional crossbars can be filled, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching scaffolding to earthen soil - it is removed on flat surfaces, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

When erecting walls or exterior decoration of buildings, scaffolding is used. This design makes it possible to safely carry out work at height and keep the necessary tools and supplies of materials used at hand.

Types of scaffolding

Despite the fact that scaffolding is presented in many types, their designs contain identical parts that carry the same purpose:

• vertical supports.
• Ties connecting supports horizontally and vertically.
• Crossbars.
• Flooring.
• Support slopes.
• Handrails.
• Stairs.

Material for manufacturing

In the manufacture of forests use:

• lumber;
• metal.

A wood structure is much cheaper than a metal one, but it can only be used with two or three assemblies. In the future, it is suitable only for "ejection".

Scaffolding made of metal pipes, although much more expensive than wooden ones, is not limited in use. They are easy to dismantle and carry as needed. In addition, pipe scaffolding can be increased in height, complementing the tiers.

Making wood scaffolding

To make scaffolding from wood and pallets with your own hands, it is necessary, first of all, to develop drawings and determine the dimensions.

There is no need to invent anything in this regard. Many years of practice has itself determined and established sizes that are convenient for work:

• the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
• the distance between the supports can vary from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• the width of the working platform is 1 meter.

Scaffolding

DIY step-by-step scaffolding:

• On a flat surface of the ground, two supports are laid out, preferably from a bar, but it is also possible from a fiftieth board, parallel to each other, of the same height.
• The supports are fastened horizontally with crossbars, on which a work platform will subsequently be laid.
• The resulting two fastened structures are installed vertically against each other and connected diagonally and horizontally by crossbars.
• Boards are covered and fixed on the horizontal crossbars, which will subsequently serve as flooring.
• To fix the scaffolding, side stops are installed.
• A cranial bar is nailed to the supports, which will play the role of a railing.
• At the last stage, a ladder for climbing is installed and fixed.

If you need to install two or more sections, then they are connected to each other with a wide board, which is stuffed onto adjacent supports. To prevent splitting from nails, you must first drill holes for them.

The specifics of the manufacture of scaffolding from pipes

When starting to make collapsible scaffolding from pipes with your own hands, you need to know that in terms of their design data they are identical with wooden scaffolding. The difference among them is the adapters that are used to increase the height of the structure.

Detailing for the assembly of one metal section

To assemble one section, you will need:

• Profiled pipe for supports 40x40 mm - 4 pcs. 1.5 m.
• Profiled pipe for crossbars - 4 pcs. 1 m.
• Thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 4 pcs. 2 meters for diagonal screed.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 mm - 8 pcs. 10 cm each, which will play the role of adapters.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 for railings - 1pc 2 - m.
• Steel plate for thrust bearings 10x10 cm 3 mm thick - 4 pieces.
• To connect the cross bars diagonally to the frame, you will need 10 bolts with nuts and washers.

Assembly of metal scaffolding of one level

To assemble the structure, you must follow the instructions: how to properly make scaffolding.

The assembly of scaffolding from pipes includes the following operations:

• Scaffolding supports are fixed to the shield from OSB sheet with the help of clamps.
• To the supports, by welding, the crossbars are welded horizontally.
• Adapters measuring 5 cm are welded to the upper end of the racks.
• Having lifted the racks with crossbars from the shield, they must be rotated 90 degrees, laid again on the shield and secured to the shield with clamps.
• The edges and the middle of the pipe, intended for diagonal stretching, are flattened and a slot for the bolts is drilled.
• Two diagonal crossbars are tightened in the center with a bolt, applied to the uprights and a place for drilling is determined.
• The crossbars are fixed on the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts.
• Holes are drilled on the supports and handrails and they are bolted together.
• Thrust bearings are welded to the base of the pipes.
• The finished structure is installed vertically.
• Boards are laid on the side rails, which serve as the basis of the working platform.

A photo of how to make scaffolding can be seen below.

It is important to remember that the diagonal crossbars must be fixed on one side of the structure, and the horizontal ones on the opposite side. Then when assembling, they will not interfere with each other.

DIY scaffolding photo

Note!

Note!

All high-altitude work is characterized by increased complexity, and in this case it is definitely impossible to do without special devices. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles / m², and even in relation to the cheapest set (frame) is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Rent can also be expensive (from 55) if the repair or construction drags on for a long time, which usually happens in practice.

Plus - some problems with the transportation of forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise buildings (for the private sector), the best solution is to make them yourself.

There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that buying pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of ​​what it is like to maintain their home in proper condition (both the front part and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the typical one). But the owner has to do this regularly.

Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure is easily disassembled after construction (repair) is completed, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant disadvantage - the limitation in carrying capacity.

That is, on such a device, only such work as facade design (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others can be carried out. When erecting brickwork or at the same time staying at a height of several people, wooden scaffolding is unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.

The only difficulty is in the correct choice of the scaffolding option and the method of fastening all structural elements. The cost of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds is justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a barn (on site or elsewhere) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable model, welded, is irrational, and it is unlikely that anyone will do this. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.

Brief description of the types of scaffolding

Clamp. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. Minus - the complexity of the installation / dismantling of the structure. In addition, if necessary, to increase the bearing capacity, you will have to buy fasteners. Only one wire, especially a rope, in this case is not enough.

Wedge. Differ from all similar models in application in the increased reliability and durability. But the manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector - not the best option.

Pin. Plus - low weight with the ability to withstand a significant load; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Minus - high cost; increased pressure on the soil. A number of additional measures need to be taken to ensure sustainability. As a rule, such forests are not used in the private sector. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. Here you need accurate calculations and a welding machine.

Frame. Plus - the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing up and assembly, such scaffolding is able to "carry" a load of up to 200 kg / m². The height restriction of 50 m for a private building does not matter much. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.

What you need

It is pointless to designate the exact linear values ​​​​of structural elements - they simply cannot be. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of craftsmen who are simultaneously at the height, and a number of other parameters.

All numerical values ​​are in mm.

By material:

• Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is suitable only for low structures used for finishing work. When erecting masonry, they will not work because of the low bearing capacity.
• Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is versatile in use. The explanation is quite understandable - the high strength and reliability of the frame.

By section:

• Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
• Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). The pipe is round at 15.
• Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.

To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding flooring - not lower than "magpie".

• Length - from 1600 to 2000.
• Width - within 1000.
• Height - 1550.

Those home craftsmen who are not satisfied with the given dimensions for some reason can take the following drawings as a basis.

Fasteners

• Bolts + nuts + washers + Grover - for fastening metal elements.
• Self-tapping screws (for metal) - for fixing the boards at the place of laying.

The main stages of manufacture

Preparing details. Pipes are cut first. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the skeleton of scaffolding, their dimensions will still have to be specified. This will save you from unnecessary work if you need to fit pre-prepared flooring elements in place. The ends of round pipes (about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such a “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.

• Preparation of "horizontals". Before using them in the assembly of the frame, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated on the drawing.
• Preparation of "verticals". To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded at one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
• Drilling holes in structural elements. Particular attention - vertical and horizontal (racks, jumpers). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will have to be definitely changed, and this is an irrational waste of materials.
• Display racks. The main thing at this stage is to maintain their compliance with the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and drastically reduce their bearing capacity. Yes, and the convenience of working on them is unlikely to add. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
• Structural reinforcement. Diagonal spacers are used for this. The peculiarity of their fastening is in symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
• Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For effective work (in relation to the private sector), one removable ladder is enough. It is small in size, easy to remove and install in another place if necessary. The material is the same - a pipe.
• Arrangement of scaffolding flooring. The boards are laid last, after the final adjustment to size. They are attached to the welded inserts with self-tapping screws.

To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding, it is necessary:

• prepare "shoes" with which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It is easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces and different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of forests relative to the ground;
• to process the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during operation there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
• Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) will do, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. U-shaped metal earrings can be used to fix the sections. In order for the fastening to be as reliable as possible, a pipe should also be taken for them, but with a slightly smaller section (25 x 25) or diameter.

If you carefully understand the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is the correct calculation and accuracy.

It is difficult to imagine a construction site without scaffolding. With them, walls are erected and finished, roofs are made, gutters are installed, etc. In each case, they must be strong and reliable. If renting factory-made scaffolding is expensive, make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands. This is often done in individual construction, where the height of houses rarely exceeds two floors. How to assemble these simple designs, this article will tell

Types of scaffolding

Construction scaffolds are made entirely of wood or metal pipes combined with boards.

On a note! Homemade scaffolding should not be subjected to heavy loads. No more than 2 people are allowed on them at the same time.

Scaffold materials

For the construction of frame scaffolding, steel racks and frames will be required. The flooring in them is made of wooden boards. Aluminum structures are lighter and can withstand less stress. For one section, the following dimensions are recommended:

• height - 150 cm,
• width - 100 cm,
• length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections determines the height of the building and the perimeter of the outer walls of the house.

A simple option for homemade scaffolding

Before proceeding with the assembly of frame scaffolding, the following materials should be purchased:

• profile for vertical racks with a square section of 3x3 cm and a length of 150 cm;
• pipe (diameter 15 mm) for the installation of horizontal and diagonal struts;
• profile for connecting inserts with a square section of 2.5x2.5 cm (the flooring rests on them) and fences;
• boards for flooring 2-2.5 m long and 4-5 cm thick;
• a ladder for lifting (if there is no finished product, it is assembled from a profile and placed between the side posts);
• bolts with nuts and washers for connecting structural elements;
• self-tapping screws for fastening wooden elements.

Note! In the course of work, you will have to use a hacksaw or grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, a welding machine. Connections can also be made with special threaded fasteners.

Frame construction rules

Before starting the assembly of scaffolding, the ground should be carefully compacted in the area where they are placed. When carrying out work in the rainy season, it is desirable to make a drainage system. So the soil under the scaffolds will not be washed away, and the structure will remain initially strong and reliable. For the stability of the structure, boards are placed under the support posts.

Wooden frames are designed for light weight

Important! Even a small play at the joints or incompletely screwed threads can cause the scaffold to tilt or collapse, and this poses a danger to people's lives.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is assembled in the following sequence.

1. Cut pipe blanks - for diagonal struts 2 meters long, and for horizontal struts - 1 meter. Pay attention! Two-meter spacers are cut 7-8 cm from each end and flattened. In the future, this will simplify the connection of parts to the profile.
2. Connect the two vertical posts together with spacers. Make sure they are in a horizontal position.
3. Connect the horizontal sections of the scaffolding with ties (the distance between them should be 30 cm). Subsequently, you will lay the boards on them.
4. Fasten the connecting elements.
5. Drill holes for the bolts on the supports and racks.
6. Finally assemble the structure from the profile pipe (fix the boards with self-tapping screws).
7. Clean the scaffolding and cover it with paint.
8. Check the drawings according to which scaffolding was made from pipes with your own hands.

On a note! Temporary structures from several sections are connected by adapters. To do this, cut off 8-10 cm pipes with a section of 3x3 cm, thread a section of the profile with a section of 2.5x2.5 cm into it. The parts are connected by welding.

The feasibility of facilities

Some people are concerned about the question of whether it is advisable to make scaffolding on their own. The following arguments are presented as an argument against them.

• Scaffolding is not a small structure, like a scaffolding goat. And this bulky structure after the completion of construction will need to be stored somewhere.

After completion of the work, the wooden scaffolding is dismantled, but this takes a lot of time. Boards, if they are not urgently needed, will also have to be folded somewhere. It should be borne in mind that wood scaffolding is knocked down with nails, and not assembled using self-tapping screws. Boards after such disassembly will not remain intact, moreover, they are often stained with mortar or paint.

Temporary structures of their pipes can be rented out

Note! Do-it-yourself metal scaffolding can be rented out.

• Home-made construction scaffolds are used for work that is carried out at a height not higher than the second floor. With a higher number of storeys, the use of such scaffolding is associated with a danger to the life of workers.
• The need for this design rarely arises (when repairing the facade). At the same time, you have to spend a lot of time on its assembly and disassembly, which may seem unprofitable.
• Often long temporary structures are required, made of a profile pipe. They differ in considerable weight and it is difficult to rearrange them even for a group of people from 3-4 people.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is a matter of personal choice. They help at different stages of construction and after completion of construction can be rented out. So you pay for your labor and materials.

Video: homemade scaffolding

In construction or repair work carried out at height, scaffolding is indispensable. Construction fixtures can be rented for the duration of the job, but it's not cheap, especially on long-term renovation projects. Having calculated the required height and configuration, scaffolding can be designed independently.

The purpose of scaffolding is the possibility of delivering building materials to the height and the safety of builders staying there during work. To do this, the design must be stable, durable, with a lifting, lowering and protection mechanism. Wood or metal is best for building scaffolding.

Scaffolding consists of several elements:

• support frames - this is the frame, it bears the main load;
• decks (scaffolds) on which builders and working material are located;
• railings to protect against accidents;
• stops - for a stable position;
• struts (diagonal and horizontal) - for the strength of the racks and uniform weight distribution;
• ladders for ascent and descent.