How to attach a stainless steel sink to a cabinet. Simple tips on how to fix the sink to the countertop How to glue the sink to the countertop

Application innovative technologies in the field of design has significantly expanded the range of interior solutions for the kitchen, where the equipment used should be not only aesthetic, but also functional. In accordance with existing requirements, modern kitchen should be equipped with a number of devices and devices designed to optimize the cooking process. One of these devices is a kitchen sink, the installation of which only at first glance seems to be a fairly simple task. However, given the variety of models and possible locations for its placement, it is important to approach the choice of design and the procedure for its placement most responsibly. Despite the wide the lineup, the most popular are mortise structures made of of stainless steel and built into the kitchen worktop. Given the popularity of these products, it is most appropriate to consider design features of this product and searching for an answer to the question: "How to install a flush-mounted sink in a countertop?"

Ergonomic principles in the kitchen: the role of the kitchen sink

To optimize the cooking process, it is necessary to correctly position the kitchen furniture and appliances. Surely everyone is familiar with the concept of "ergonomics" and its basic principles, which may vary somewhat depending on the type of room. The kitchen is no exception - repairs on the territory of this room are subject to strictly defined principles of ergonomics. In accordance with them, the arrangement of furniture and equipment in the kitchen depends on the order of work, and therefore, it is recommended to arrange the furniture from left to right in a strictly defined sequence: refrigerator - Dishwasher(if available) - sink - stove. Between these technical objects, it is recommended to place work surfaces with lockers.

As for the minimum distances between objects, certain requirements are also imposed on them:

• The distance between the sink and the stove, as well as between the refrigerator and the sink, should be 40 cm;
• The refrigerator and stove should also be located at a distance of 40 cm from each other.

What should be considered when choosing a kitchen sink?

When choosing a kitchen sink, pay attention to the following factors:

• Functionality determined by the nature of the work carried out in the kitchen and depending on the number of additional bowls in the sink and wings for drying. These compartments will be useful if you are used to carrying out several manipulations in the kitchen at once;
• Capacity, in the process of determining which it is necessary to pay attention to the number of daily washed dishes;
• Stability and durability, more dependent on the material from which the structure is made;
• The design solution and design of the sink should be such that it fits perfectly into the environment and becomes a full-fledged element of a holistic interior concept;
• Ease of use: the configuration of the sink should be such that it is comfortable to stand and work near it.

Constructive types of kitchen sinks: a brief description

A number of requirements are imposed on the installation of a kitchen sink, and therefore, it must be carried out in accordance with a certain technology. The choice of the required technological solution, and, accordingly, the method of installation depends on the design of the sink. Consider the most popular constructive types:

• Overhead sinks- most a budget option, distinctive feature which is easy installation design. The principle of their installation is based on the fact that the sink is put on a separate cabinet, and therefore, they become a continuation of the countertop, as if replacing it. Despite the undeniable advantage described above, sinks of this type are also characterized by disadvantages - a relatively small thickness of the product and the formation of a gap between the sink and the countertop, which leads to additional inconvenience;

Important! Experts recommend giving preference to overhead models if the kitchen set consists of separate sections. If the kitchen modules are combined under a common worktop, it would be more appropriate to use built-in models.

• Mortise sinks- are models that are installed directly into the countertop, and therefore, installation activities must begin with the preparation of the corresponding hole in the countertop. Installation technology mortise sinks involves fastening the structure to the inside of the tabletop using special clamps and brackets. Built-in sinks of this type are characterized by a solid appearance and ease of use. Despite the fact that the cost of such models is somewhat higher, experienced professionals often prefer them because of their practicality and the ability to avoid moisture accumulation between the cabinets;

• Undermount sinks- innovative models, the high cost of which reduces their ubiquitous availability and limits widespread use. The principle of installation of these sanitary wares involves their fastening below the level of the countertop, and therefore, they form a single whole with it. The advantages of underbench sinks are aesthetic appearance, high sound absorption and effective sealing of joints. In addition, such products are hygienic and durable.

Materials for the manufacture of mortise and overhead sinks

As for overhead and mortise sinks, both of them are made of stainless steel with the same frequency, remaining on this moment one of the most popular. The appearance of mortise sinks made of stainless steel can be different - most often there are smooth sinks and sinks with a texture that imitates linen.

In addition to traditional sinks made of stainless and enameled steel, mortise sinks made of stone and mineral-epoxy composite materials are no less popular. The demanded material is also an artificial stone. Sinks made of composite materials are distinguished by a spectacular granular structure that resembles polished stone in appearance. Mortise sinks from artificial stone make up an extensive group of kitchen accessories characterized by high aesthetic and performance characteristics, including resistance to scratches, abrasion and sudden changes in temperature.

The shape of sinks is no less diverse - along with single-bowl, there are also models with several (from two to four) bowls, which can be both shallow and deep, equipped with additional dryers.

Basis for installation of a surface-mounted sink

• The installation of the countertop sink is carried out on a separate module of the kitchen worktop in such a way that it completely covers its upper part. Such an installation is quite simple - the equipment is fastened using L-shaped elements with an oblique slot. To carry out the fastening of one sink, it is necessary to prepare at least 4-5 fasteners.

Important! Before proceeding with the installation of the sink, it is necessary to connect the mixer, which will later avoid difficulties in the installation process.

• Attach the fasteners prepared in advance to the inside of the cabinet and leave the appropriate notes;
• Prepare the shortest self-tapping screws (15 mm) and screw them in the marked places so that at least 5 mm protrudes above the mark;
• Treat the end of the cabinet with a sealant, which will protect the furniture and increase the reliability of the sink;
• Install the sink on the screwed-in screws and move it until it fits completely;
• Fix the fasteners and, after removing excess sealant, connect the sink to the plumbing and sewer systems.

Installing a sink sink in a countertop: a step-by-step guide

Consider the principle of installing a mortise sink in a chipboard countertop, covered with plastic on top. If you are wondering how to fix a mortise sink into a countertop made of other materials, including artificial stone, carefully read the product data sheet, where the manufacturer should describe in detail the recommendations for working with this material.

Preparation of materials and tools

Before proceeding with the installation of the sink, check its completeness with fixing material. Most often, these are special clips that are mounted on both sides - on the cut end of the countertop and on the inner surface of the sink. In addition, the kit should include a tubular seal, which will be required to seal the joints. In addition, prepare the following set of tools:

• Electric jigsaw, which can be replaced with a conventional one hand tool, and a set of spare saw blades for wood;
• Drill with a 10 mm drill (for metal) and self-tapping screws;
• Standard set of measuring tools: construction knife, level, corner, tape measure, Phillips screwdriver, ruler and pencil;
• Colorless silicone sealant required for lubrication of cracks and joints.

Markup execution: important nuances

• The markings made in accordance with the recommendations below will be relevant in the case of installing a standard inset sink rectangular shape. When installing a round mortise sink, familiarize yourself with the additional nuances of installation.
• Using a pencil, in the place where you plan to install the sink, draw two perpendicular lines, at the intersection of which the drain will be located;
• Turn the sink upside down and place it on the countertop with the bowl up and align it according to the prepared markings (you can see the intersection of the axes through the drain hole). Take a simple pencil and circle the outer edges of the sink around the perimeter. In this case, it is important to take into account the dimensions of the mortise sinks, as well as mutual arrangement the borders of the sink and the remaining free edge of the countertop, the presence of which is necessary for the rational installation of cabinet doors;

Important! In order for the mortise sink in the countertop not to become an obstacle to closing the cabinet doors, it must be located inside the cabinet.

• Next, measure the width of the side of the sink and, in accordance with the value obtained, draw an internal contour along which the cutting line will pass. Despite the fact that the width of the side is an individual value for each sink, on average it fluctuates within 12 mm.

Important! The size of the hole should be such that the sink can freely enter it, while the permissible deviation from the marking should not exceed 3 mm.

How to cut a hole in a countertop?

• This process is carried out using a jigsaw, however, before the saw of the tool enters the entire depth of the material from which the countertop is made, it is necessary to make technological holes that facilitate the work process. Holes are made with a drill or screwdriver at the corners of the internal markings.

Important! Corner holes should be located in the inner plane of the cutting area, and their edges should only be in contact with the cutting line.

• To avoid the formation of chips on the laminated surface, the entire cutting front must be performed on the front side of the countertop.
• After you have made holes in the corners of the cutting plane, use a jigsaw to cut a hole along the inside line of the cut. To prevent the cut-off part of the tabletop from falling, screw in self-tapping screws along the cut line, which will ensure its fixation.
• After you have made a hole in the tabletop, remove the screws and the cut-off part of the tabletop from the main plane, clean the cut from dust. Pre-install the sink in the resulting hole, which is necessary in order to check the compliance of the product with the dimensions of the hole.

Important! The sink should freely enter the resulting hole (if there are difficulties, it is necessary to cut the edges with a jigsaw).

• In the process of preparing a hole, all kinds of micro-chips and roughness can form on the internal cut line. In this regard, it is necessary to consider the rules for processing the slice, if they are neglected, the following problems may arise:
• Absolute sealing of an uncleaned chipboard surface is practically impossible;

Important! Insufficient sealing will lead to moisture entering the unprotected area of ​​​​the countertop, which will cause the activation of rotting processes and the formation of fungal plaque. Subsequently, the cutting edge will become brittle, which will reduce the stability of the sink and lead to its skew.

• The rotting of the countertop will soon lead to a decrease in its physical, aesthetic and operational characteristics, and therefore, there will be a need to replace it.
• To avoid this, the end side of the cut is ground with fine-grained sandpaper;
• Carefully treat the entire cut area with plumbing sealant. Experts recommend doing this work with a spatula, in the absence of which this can be done with a finger. By carrying out such protective measures, you will prevent the tabletop from getting wet and swelling.

Important! If in the course of work you find chips on the plastic (the front side of the countertop), carefully coat them with sealant, and it is not at all necessary that the layer be thick - its thickness does not matter in this case.

• There is another way to protect the end side of the cut - processing with PVA glue. Despite the fact that it is more labor-intensive, it is not inferior to the previous one in its reliability, however, for greater protection, the applied layer of glue should dry out within 30-50 minutes.
• The next step involves gluing a sealant made of foamed polyethylene (it was previously noted that it should be included in the sink package). It is glued to the side of the sink around its entire perimeter. If, after gluing the sealant, you find protruding edges of the material, carefully cut them with a knife. If this advice is neglected, you will find that the edges of the sink do not fit snugly against the countertop, and water entering the gaps formed will lead to swelling and subsequent decay of the ends of the countertop.

Due to the fact that the process of gluing the sealant directly determines the wear resistance and performance characteristics future headset, consider it in more detail.

• Take the sealant and use a rag soaked in gasoline and solvent to degrease it;
• Apply a continuous strip of sealant to the seal (the sealant strip must be thin enough so that the adhesive does not come out during compression);
• Press the seal against the outer edge of the sink.

How to attach a sink sink to a countertop?

• Apply a layer of silicone to the countertop (between the cut and the outer scribe line);
• Install fasteners on the inside of the sink sides and, making sure that they are not completely fixed, proceed to install the sink. It begins with the deepening of the side where the crane will be attached;

• In the future, the rest of the part gradually becomes into the hole until the sides of the sink are in close contact with the inner surface of the countertop.

Important! In the process of installing the sink, press firmly on the entire surface of the structure, which will allow you to remove excess silicone from under the sides of the sink.

• Using building level, make sure that the installation is correct, and then proceed to the final stage - the final fastening of the fixing elements;
• After completing the above activities, proceed to connect communications. To do this, the hoses are hot and cold water connect to the plumbing system using a sealing gasket.

After fixing the hoses, the installation steps are as follows:

• Enter the outlet of the siphon into the sink (it is recommended to give preference to the S-shaped design);
• Add a hard angled or soft corrugated pipe to the siphon;
• Bring the pipe from the siphon into the sewer pipe;
• Check all system connections for leaks.

How to cut a hole in the countertop if it is made of artificial stone?

• In most cases, countertops made of artificial stone are ordered with holes designed for a specific sink, however, if such conditions were not agreed in advance during the ordering process, you can contact specialists who, using special tools, will cut a hole. required form and magnitude.
• If you want to do the work yourself, in accordance with the technology described above, instead of a jigsaw, use a corner grinder(grinder), as well as a disc for cutting concrete with a diamond coating.

Features of installation of corner, round and granite sinks

The process of inserting a corner and round sink is identical to that described above, however, for both varieties there are certain installation features.

Features of the installation of a round sink:

• Along the cutting line, experts recommend making several holes in increments of 7-10 cm, which will facilitate this process;
• If the sink of your chosen model does not come with a cutout template, make it yourself.

Features of the installation of a corner sink:

• Due to the fact that the angle of rotation of the cutting lines is less than 90 degrees, in order to improve the passage of the jigsaw saw, make several holes along the cutting line - in corner connection lines and at a distance of 2-3 mm from it.

Specifics of installing a granite sink:

• It lies in the fact that the design of a sink made of granite does not imply the presence of holes for installing a drain siphon of a mortise sink and a faucet. They must be made independently using a drill equipped with a special nozzle. If you have no experience with artificial stone equipment, you need to be extremely careful, as the slightest mistake can cause a defect in the equipment.

1 Ergonomics in the kitchen

Food preparation should be accurate and fast. This is primarily influenced by the location. kitchen furniture and technology. In accordance with the principles of ergonomics, kitchen equipment must be arranged depending on the order of work, that is, from left to right: refrigerator, dishwasher, sink, stove, and between them work surfaces with cabinets.

Minimum distance between individual devices should be:

• 40 cm between refrigerator and sink, as well as between sink and stove,
• 40 cm between refrigerator and stove.

For right-handers, the most convenient is the placement of individual workspaces from right to left. Regarding the sink, this means that the sink should be on the right and the dryer on the left.

It is best if the sink is mounted near the connection to the water supply and sewerage system.

The drainage system at the sink is made of pipes and siphons with a diameter of 40 and 50 mm.

2 Types of sinks

When choosing a kitchen sink, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• Spaciousness. It determines the number and size of daily washed dishes.
• Functionality. It is determined by the nature of the work carried out in the kitchen, the number of additional bowls in the sink and wings for drying. If you have to carry out several personal manipulations in the sink at the same time, then these compartments will be very useful.
• The convenience of use. You should be comfortable standing and working at the sink.
• Stability and durability. These parameters are determined by the material from which the sink is made.
• Combination with the interior of the kitchen. The sink must match the style, design, color scheme and, of course, the size of the entire kitchen.

In terms of installation, there are two main types of sinks:

• superimposed on the kitchen cabinet (overhead),
• built into the kitchen worktop (mortise).

When installing built-in sinks, it is necessary to accurately cut a hole in the countertop for the selected sink. In the case of chipboard, this is not a big problem, but if the countertop is made of stone, conglomerate or composite, then special cutting tools are indispensable. 

MATERIALS USED FOR THE PRODUCTION OF SINKS

Surface-mounted sinks are made of stainless or enameled steel. The two most common finishes for steel sinks are smooth and linen textured.

Mortise sinks are made of stainless steel, mineral epoxy composites and solid artificial materials.

Composite sinks often have a spectacular grain structure, reminiscent of polished stone. Sinks made of artificial materials can be completely monochrome. This group of kitchen accessories is characterized by a spectacular appearance and high resistance to abrasion, scratches, dents and high temperatures.

WASHING SHAPES

Steel sinks have the widest range of shapes and varieties. In addition to the usual one-bowl sinks, there are sinks with several bowls (usually 2-4), which can be both shallow and deep, with additional side dryers.

3 Installation of a surface sink

4 Installation of a mortise sink

Mortise sinks are designed for installation in kitchen worktops.

The first step is to cut an appropriate hole in the countertop. In wood and laminated worktops particle boards cut the hole with a jigsaw on wood.

For countertops made of stone, conglomerates or composites, special devices are used when cutting holes, so this service must be ordered at the time of purchase. In this case, it is necessary to indicate the dimensions of the hole and the exact place of installation of the sink. The size of the hole for the sink is obtained by measuring the length and width of the apron on the bottom of the sink.

ATTENTION

The hole should be 0.5 cm wider and longer than the apron.

1. The apron is used for stable installation of the sink. Some sinks come with a sample sink hole that you only need to draw on the countertop.

2. Cut a hole in the countertop with a jigsaw.

3. Insert the seal under the sink, which is included with the sink.

ATTENTION

Wooden and laminated worktops must be protected from moisture after cutting the hole. We cover the edges of the cut hole abundantly with sanitary silicone. After it dries, you can proceed with the installation of the sink.

Steel sinks are fixed in the hole with clamps. The upper part of the mount is attached to the holes drilled in the sink apron. The lower part rests against the bottom of the tabletop. Both parts are connected with a screw. Tightening the screw, clamp the mount and fix the sink in the hole.

4. After centering the sink in the hole, fasten the first fastener. We do not twist it to the end, leaving a little free.

5. In the same way, we fasten the mount located opposite.

6. In turn, carefully fasten all the fasteners.

7. The last stage of installation is to tighten all the screws in turn so that the sink rests on the countertop with its entire contour.

8. We set the mounting points for the latches in the hole cut in the countertop in accordance with the drawing attached to the product by the sink manufacturer.

9. We screw the clamps into the designated places. They can be from 6 to 12 pieces. 

10. Glue a self-adhesive sealing tape along the edges of the sink, which, depending on the manufacturer, is included in the kit or sold separately.

11. We fix the sink by carefully inserting it into the hole in the countertop. First, the countertop will rest against the edge of the apron on the tabs of the latches.

12. We squeeze the sink in the places where the latches are mounted. The tabs will snap into place in the recesses made on the sink apron. After fixing is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the mixer and the siphon for draining.

ATTENTION

Precise latches and a precisely cut hole ensure that the sink is properly fixed.

The mortise sink fastener is a necessary part for fixing the sink bowl to the countertop during its installation. This type mounting fittings greatly simplifies the process of installation and subsequent dismantling of kitchen sinks, and we want to consider it in more detail.

Washbasin fixtures

Purpose and features

Mortise and overhead sinks have practically ousted all others from the market due to their beauty, practicality and ease of use. It is this type of plumbing that is best suited for installation in a modern countertop, which involves the maximum integration of all appliances into the overall interior ensemble of the room.

One of the features of such an installation is that even traces of mounting fittings, gaps, slots and other technological details should not remain on the surface and in the visibility zones. To realize this requirement, a hidden and reliable fastener is needed, which can not only imperceptibly, but also with sufficient effort, pull the sink bowl to the surface of the countertop.

Of course, plumbing manufacturers have taken care of such a device, because the “do it yourself” and “finish with a file” options have long been irrelevant, and modern products should be equipped to the maximum.

Consider the device of the fastener:

• The product consists of two parts and a clamping screw;
• The lower part is attached to the sink apron in special grooves or holes;
• The upper part rests against the countertop, crashing into it with special teeth;
• The parts are interconnected with a screw, by turning which we can adjust the distance between them. If the lower part is fixed on the sink, and the upper one rests against the countertop, then by reducing the distance we will press the sink against the table;
• The parts are articulated, and top part can bend relative to the bottom. At installation work this feature allows you to first bend the teeth inward, insert the sink into the hole in the countertop, and then bend them again and rest against the board.

The product can consist entirely of metal (tin, stainless steel, galvanized) or have plastic inclusions. All-metal clamps are considered more reliable.

Important!
Even in the case of an all-metal clamp body, the screw should only be tightened by hand, since the thread on the washer is weak and can be easily torn off with a screwdriver.

Installation without clamp

There are situations when fasteners are lost or do not fit the thickness of the countertop. In this case, you can do without them, although this is highly undesirable.

There may be options here:

1. Use glue or sealant to fix;
2. Make a mount yourself from parts for mounting GKL.

Since the sinks are superimposed on the hole and rest on the countertop from above, all operational loads and emerging forces tend to press the bowl even more strongly. The only point is the gap between the sides and the board.

If we put the sink on the glue (silicone sealant, epoxy resin etc.) and press the bowl with a load for the time of solidification, then as a result the gap will be minimal, and the fixation will be reliable.

Important!
The main problem of glue is the impossibility of quick and easy dismantling of the sink, if necessary, with or other structural details.

You can take a remote mount for GKL profiles and cut it into two parts. We put the antennae into the mount on the sink, and through one of the holes we insert a self-tapping screw and pull it to the countertop at an angle. Thus, an attractive force arises, and the fastening is reliable and durable.

Important!
You can only screw a screw into a wooden countertop.
Composite, polymer and stone products are not suitable for this method, it is possible to mount on a dowel here.

The price of fasteners is very small, so there is no point in reinventing the wheel in this case. It is much easier to buy the right fasteners and save time and effort.

Installation

Installing fasteners on the sink body and fixing the bowl with your own hands is very simple.

The instruction will be short and clear:

1. On the shell body we find special grooves or ears for attaching clamps;

One of indispensable attributes any kitchen is a sink. It is required to the same extent as a stove (gas or electric). But installing a sink in the kitchen with your own hands is much easier than connecting a stove, if you know the basic instructions and the characteristic secrets of such work.

Different sinks are needed, different sinks are important

Indeed, kitchen sinks are produced in the widest range, from which in a specialized plumbing store "eyes run wide". Kitchen sinks can be divided into at least six categories:

• Sinks hinged, cut-in and laid on. The hinged option is now rare, it is more relevant for communal apartments and government institutions than for modern renovation. But mortise and overhead sinks compete with each other in popularity, their long-term reliability and aesthetic appeal are comparable;
• Sinks made of stainless steel alloys, chrome-plated or nickel-plated, sinks made of natural granite or artificial stoneware, acrylic and even glass (!). However, due to practicality, 90% of all models are made of stainless steel and representative porcelain stoneware.;
• Sinks angular and standard, round, oval, square, rectangular and curly. The more intricate the shape of the sink, the more difficult it is to give it impeccable cleanliness and maintain a sparkling shine on a daily basis. After all, the sink is used not for beauty in the living room, but for mundane household needs in the kitchen;
• By design, ordinary single sinks and sinks with two bowls (one or different sizes, the same or various shapes etc.). Available comfortable models with overflow of water from one bowl to another;
• By the location of the mixer - on the wall or on the sink itself (the first option is rare);
• According to the availability of additional options - the ability to install a water filter, taps for connecting washing machine, automatic valves for regulating the drain, additional taps for connecting garden hoses, etc.

Stainless steel sinks have gained overwhelming popularity due to their affordable price, durable functionality, compatibility with a wide variety of kitchen renovations, and ease of sanitization.

You can check the quality of the steel alloy of the sink right in the store - an ordinary flat magnet will stick to it very firmly, with bad steel the magnet will “fly off” at the slightest hesitation.

Granite and steel sinks are available in overhead and mortise versions, do-it-yourself installation of a sink in the kitchen is possible for both. However, we must first take care of the furniture basis of our assembly efforts.

How to assemble a sink in the kitchen - we mount the cabinet

Mortise and overhead sinks are installed in bedside tables and cabinets, with opening (less often sliding) doors in front and an empty opening in the back. Assembly of these elements kitchen set has its characteristics. The fact is that they do not provide for internal bulkheads, they can interfere with the connection of sewers and water pipes. This means that there will be no additional stiffening ribs inside the cabinet. If an overhead sink is installed, even the countertop is missing, it is replaced by a steel sink panel.

The assembly of the cabinet under the sink should be much more reliable and durable than other parts of the kitchen set.. It must be installed on special linings, because. with the best tightness, water leaks are possible. The material itself will not interfere with the treatment with water-repellent compounds. Inside the nightstand, it is necessary to provide fasteners for tightening jumpers - they are installed after connecting the sink to communications for the strength of the entire structure. The jumpers themselves can be made from flat and thick planks, which will serve as additional mini-shelves inside the cabinet.

How to install an overhead sink on a cabinet - a quick guide

Overhead installation option kitchen sink happens ordinary and "retractable". In the latter case, the sink itself is equipped with curved slides on the side and front sides, while special grooves are provided on the nightstand. After successfully assembling the sink in the kitchen, it remains to push the sink into these grooves, move the structure against the wall - and you can connect communications.

If you use the direct version of surface mounting, you will have to seal all joints. A quality waterproof sealant combines the properties of an adhesive and a protective waterproof compound. The upper perimeter of the open pedestal is generously smeared with this composition, it remains to accurately place the sink itself on top.

A large and heavy surface sink must not be installed only on sealing adhesive!

Otherwise, one day it will fall into the cabinet along with the dishes, destroying the sewer and breaking off the water hoses under pressure. Negative impressions from such an accident will be available to both you and the neighbors below. As well as the elimination of a plumbing collapse and the repair of two rooms already from the personal budget. How to install an overhead sink on a cabinet without the danger of such an opportunity? With the help of auxiliary bars or internal crates.

It is customary to supply simple overhead sinks with additional fasteners. As such, massive bars, precisely screwed from the wrong side of the cabinet, are suitable. It is necessary to accurately mark the lower edge of the pre-installed (without glue!) Shell and build an internal crate along this line. Then the sink will rely on auxiliary bars, and not on the thin end of the nightstand. The operation is similar to hidden lathing installation, only in the final stage it is supplemented with adhesive sealing of the junction of metal and wood.

Installing a sink in the kitchen - do-it-yourself mortise installation

Before attaching a metal sink to the pedestal using a mortise method, you need to make sure that the pedestal is strong and that it can precise installation the entire structure into the mounting opening. Experiment with the movement of the bedside table in advance - after fixing the sink, this will have to be done only once. After connecting the sewerage and water supply, the bedside table with the sink should stand “like a glove”, without distortions and vibrations.

How to install a sink in the kitchen with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Markup

Most mortise sinks are sold with a ready-made template, it plays the role of a packaging container. It is enough to cut out such a template from cardboard and attach it to the countertop at the location of the sink - and the contour seat ready.

If there is no template, you will have to make it yourself. To do this, it is better to use thick cardboard (for example, from a TV or monitor). After measuring the inside of the sink, transfer this measurement to the cardboard surface and cut off a few centimeters more. It is better to cut a piece of cardboard several times than to look for a new piece.

Step 2: Location

The proverb about the need to measure seven times before the first cut is very relevant for our work. You can move the finished template on the countertop easily and freely - until you start to cut it through. So consider how the tap will open, where the filter will be, how it will be located kitchenware etc.

Outline the cardboard template should be as even and accurate as possible. To do this, it is attached to the countertop with ordinary tape and draw one thin line with a pencil. After that, the "cardboard assistant" is peeled off and sent to the waste paper, it will no longer be useful to us. We glue the perimeter of the future hole on the outside with 8-12 cm masking tape in order to prevent damage from mechanical tools.

Step 3: Drill and saw

Yes, yes, the first mechanical tool will be a drill, not a saw. A drill with a diameter of 2 mm is selected and several closely spaced holes are drilled in the place where it is convenient to start cutting out the contour. The holes are connected into a single groove with a chisel.

Sawing the tabletop is convenient jigsaw for wood. Just do not forget to stock up on extra canvases - thick tabletops are difficult to saw, the canvas is likely to break with a slight deviation from the vertical. Take your time and drive the jigsaw confidently - it is more difficult to correct a curved cutout than immediately cut a hole along a plumb line, with a strictly perpendicular cut.

Step 4: Finishing the installation

Apply sealant to the end of the fresh mounting hole and firmly insert the sink. We hold the sink under load from 10 to 60 seconds (depending on the type of sealant). Carefully remove excess adhesive from the outer and inside sinks and wait several hours until the sealant is completely cured. We connect hoses, pipes, sewers, install a faucet and use the new sink for our pleasure.

Hello, friends.

In this article, we will consider one very serious operation, which greatly affects the quality of the kitchen set.

We're talking about a sink hole. We will look at this entire process from start to finish with all its nuances.

Before you embed the sink, you need to decide on which part of the countertop it should be located.

To do this, the countertop must be placed on the lower modules of the kitchen, and the box in which the sink should be placed, from the inside, circle with a pencil (on the countertop) to determine inner space for her.

After that, the tabletop must be placed bottom up, and mark the place for cutting the hole. This is done as follows:

• Then, with a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the edge to the eye into which the fasteners are attached.

• Having made 8-10 such “serifs”, through them, using the same sink, we draw curves (in parts) that form inside the circle we have drawn, another circle, the radius of which is less than the radius of the main circle at a distance from the edge of the sink to its eye . This will be the circle that needs to be cut with a jigsaw.

• We make a hole on the inside of this circle with a large drill (usually, this is a drill with a diameter of 10 millimeters).

• We insert a jigsaw file into this drill, and cut a hole. Remember, when the hole is almost cut out, support the cut out part of the table top, as it can break off, breaking the plastic from the front.

When the hole is made, the inside of it must be covered with silicone, since this place is the most problematic place in the kitchen. It should be maximally protected from moisture getting inside the countertop, since in this case, the countertop can simply “tear” from moisture - and this is its complete replacement.

So, after the hole is “silicified”, we begin to prepare the sink for the tie-in.

To do this, you need to stick an adhesive tape on its inner surface, which is always included (plus fasteners and plus, plastic tubes for draining).

Pay attention before you buy a sink: Adhesive tape (which needs to be glued inside) should not be pasted on it. It should come with a set. On almost all sinks that had adhesive tape pre-applied, it was not applied correctly.

And correctly, it is glued so that there would be a small distance between it and the side of the sink itself (it turns out there, as it were, a gutter), where silicone is poured.

It turns out at the same time, two barriers: adhesive tape and silicone.

So, when all this is done, and the silicone is poured, the sink is inserted into the hole cut in the countertop (from bottom to top). If the countertop is located, for example, on two chairs, then one of them can be immediately substituted under the sink, thus fixing it.

After that, fasteners are inserted into it.

I want to note that this is one of the most installed kitchen units.

The fasteners with which it is attached to the tabletop are usually poor (meaning poorly thought out). There are almost always problems with it (for this, you need to always have spare options for this fastener for installation).

There are situations when he simply does not fix the countertop, but climbs to the sink (which happened at the installation, photos from which are posted in this article as an example).

As we did not bend the antennae of the fastener itself, it stubbornly jumped off the countertop (and, of course, did not fix it).

The easiest way out of this situation is as shown in the pictures: you need to insert a piece of chipboard, or something else, between the sink and the fastener itself. Thus, the fastener is fixed, and, twisting, attracts the sink.

But, one should not forget one detail: you need to exercise with the installation, if possible not for very long, since the silicone that was poured inside the sink, when pressed against the countertop, partially “crawled out” out. It should not have time to harden, because in this case, removing it, you can also remove part of the silicone under the sink.

When it is drawn to the tabletop, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between it and the tabletop. If they are, then it is badly attracted.

At the end, you need to wipe the silicone that has come out from under the sink and the sink itself.

Here, in general, and all.

This is where I end, see you in the next article.