How to build a log house from a log. Log cabin: building independently of different types (from wild and rounded logs, timber), nuances

One of the oldest building structures- a wooden frame - is now confidently returning to individual construction. The reason is not only the prestigious appearance of log buildings: a log house breathes very well - in summer it is not hot in it, in winter it is warm without additional insulation, the humidity is kept optimal. Putting a log house with your own hands is a rather difficult task., but feasible for a hardworking and attentive beginner, and saving money in this case, compared with a custom-made log house, can be 2-3 times. But no less important is the fact that the service life of a home-made log house can exceed 100 or even 200 years, while the standard for chopped building structures is 40 years; really the best typical log cabins cost 50-70 years. Reason - to put a log house for several generations, you need to observe a lot of subtleties in your work about which this article is written; they will also help to extend the life of a typical log house and make it more resistant. Good carpenters most often know them, but not every millionaire can afford to pay for such painstaking work. And with your own hands, for yourself, it will cost only about a year of extra time: before the construction continues, the correct original log house must stand from heat to heat through the winter.

Prerequisites

Not only before the start of work - before all thoughts about them, you need to clearly understand certain rules and apply them to your own conditions. After that, the material is selected - a wild log, rounded, timber - and the actual construction technology.

Bar, cylinder or savage?

Dimensional sawn timber is commercially available up to 12 m long. But edged 3- or 4-edged timber can be spliced ​​in length (see below), so a log cabin on a normally buried foundation can, in principle, be very large, at the top left in fig. below. Costs profile beam it is quite expensive for a log house, but it is sold as ready-made kits for a house, a bath, etc. (see the figure on the right), which are often accompanied by a standard project. Its approval passes without problems, and the log house itself can only be assembled according to the attached instructions and let it stand for weight shrinkage for the time indicated there. The real service life of a house made of such a bar will be 60-70 years, and with high-quality caulking and regular annual care (renewal of the impregnation outside) - up to 100 years.

There are no reliable ways to connect longitudinally round logs, therefore the maximum length of a round log house is 12 m outside. You can add living space by erecting an extension along with the house and on a common foundation with it (upper right in the figure), but taking into account all the restrictions on cutting into a log house, the width of the extension is no more than 2/3 of the length of the wall to which it adjoins. Maximum possible variant of this type - a log house 12x12 without piers, from each wall of which sticks out an extension 6x6. The service life is the same as that of a timber structure, tk. rounded log is actually a kind of profiled timber.

Basic Rules

A wild log house made from self-purchased and prepared logs can stand for more than 200 years; log cabins from wild logs are known, which are more than 600. A wild log is not a measured material and can be harvested more than 12 m long. But the assembly of a log cabin from a “savage” is so peculiar that we will return to it a little further, but for now we will complete the analysis of log house construction rules (see fig. and list below):

• The fire safety of log buildings is not higher than average. Impregnation with the best modern flame retardants (impregnating materials for fire resistance) will extinguish a burning rag that has fallen on the floor and slow down the spread of flames from a strong fire so that people have time to evacuate and, possibly, partially remove property. But, even if the fire is quickly extinguished, the remains of the house will have to be demolished and a new one built.
• The cost of the materials themselves for a cheap wild log house is at least twice as much as for a frame or panel house the same usable volume.
• The complexity of building a log house is very high. If you manage to make a log house for 12 crowns over the summer without experience (this is a ceiling of 2.5-2.7 m), and at the same time you will waste no more than 10% of the harvested material, then you are a nugget carpenter.
• Chainsaw, drill, and possibly stationary a circular saw and a planer will greatly help to reduce the time of building a log house, but the share of qualified self made however, it is still high. To assemble a log house, just swinging your arms until your bones ache is not enough. It is necessary to work measuredly, carefully, slowly, all the time using the eye, accuracy and ingenuity.
• It is possible to build a log house from a wild log for a bathhouse or a non-residential house (dacha, country summer, hunting) on ​​an unburied foundation on soils up to strongly heaving.
• The assembly of the log house is carried out entirely at once - along with the chopped porch, veranda, summer kitchen, hallway, dressing room, etc. outbuildings. There are technical possibilities to postpone the completion of the entire building “for later”, see pos. 1 in Fig., they are technically not very acceptable: the duration and nature of the shrinkage of the log house is significantly different from those of other wooden building structures.

• Cutting a log house into a corner without residue (see below), which significantly saves material, will require the use of joints that are asymmetric about the longitudinal axis of the log or beam. In this case, the overlapping ends of the units of material must pass from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even crowns, pos. 2. A template for marking grooves and spikes can be used alone, but when marking the next crown, it must not only be rotated, but also turned over so that the marking goes into mirror reflection. To do this, the sides of the template are marked "H" (odd) and "H" (even).
• Do not put the log house on the backing bars, pos. 3. The log house does not need either a bearing support or a damping pad - it holds itself. The foundation is covered with waterproofing and a log house is assembled right on it. And the slats under the frame can be, and often are, a loophole for rot and pests.
• The installation of the log house is carried out immediately on the spot, i.е. on the foundation of the building, while immediately making a rough caulking stretch (pos. 4); however, . Assembling a frame to make it easier to work upside down next to the foundation and then shifting crown after crown into place is a crude hack, suitable for temporary or completely unassuming buildings, for example. taiga winter quarters.
• The floor in chopped buildings is made only floating, pos. 5. It is unacceptable to cut the load-bearing beams of the floor (beams) into logs or logs!

Building from timber

A log cabin is suitable for all types of log buildings. It is the most resistant, durable and can stand on a non-buried foundation on moving soils. So let's start the analysis in more detail with him.

Tool

In addition to the usual building to a tree, a special tool, which was mentioned above, is absolutely necessary to cut down a log house. For the construction of a cut timber frame, you can do without it.

You will need at least 2 axes: a carpenter's with a straight blade and a carpenter's with a convex one, on the left in fig. If there is a chainsaw, a cleaver is not needed - with its help, the logs are cut in half in the old fashioned way and chipped off from them. An ax with an asymmetrically convex blade (top right in the figure), and a set of adzes (bottom right) will also be very useful. A wooden sledgehammer-barsik will greatly improve the quality of work and reduce the muscular efforts required for it by 2-3.5 kg, in the sidebar.

The devil's carpentry tool will be absolutely necessary. On sale under this name there are many semblances of calipers, but they only get accurate markings on the most expensive rounded logs. A real carpenter's trait is a weighty, rough, visible tool (see the figure on the right), which allows you to mark manually debarked wild woods. You can make a line for marking logs yourself (see the drawing at the bottom right in the same figure), and it will be more convenient to work with it: a longitudinal through hole is drilled in the handle away from the axis for a guide pin, which is fixed with a screw or wedge. With such a feature, even a completely green one, but a neat beginner will be able to correctly mark a very clumsy log, see below.

About wild logs

It is a wild log house that can withstand hundreds of years, gradually caking into a kind of monolith. A house or a bathhouse breathes in full force from a wild log. If the Finnish bathhouse can still be built from galvanized logs or timber, then the original Russian bathhouse is cut only by a “savage”. How to put a wild frame for a bath, see for example. video

Video: log cabin from a wild log

To understand the secrets of a wild log, let's look at the structure of its cut, see fig. on right. The wild log is debarked by hand along, and not rotated in a peeler; therefore, it is necessary to purchase wild timber for felling from the loggers, and from sellers - only unbarked. When manually debarking logs, the cambium is preserved - layers of wood of a special structure. In a living tree, it is the cambium that gives the trunk an increase in thickness and the formation of the layers underlying it. And in the frame - the best breath of the tree; in a Russian bath - the optimal ability of the walls to receive and give off heat. Manual debarking (barking) of logs is a laborious task, but if you want your descendants to be surprised: “In great-grandfather he built!”, Then it’s worth it, see the video:

Video: removing bark from logs (barking) yourself

Note: The cambium is most developed in the ancient contemporaries of dinosaurs - conifers. In flowering dicotyledons it is thinner and of a different structure, while in monocotyledonous trees (eg palm trees) it does not exist at all.

Lumberjacks sell wild forest for self-delivery most often freshly felled or, sometimes, last year's, otherwise it makes no sense for them to give a discount (and a considerable one at that). Wild timber purchased from loggers for a log cabin, and taking into account the payment for a timber carrier flight, will cost much cheaper than even a bare log aged at a timber exchange. Which also look for - here it is more profitable for merchants to give the savage for processing and sell the seasoned lumber. That is, the purchased wild forest will need to be dried in their pile, see the plot:

Video: drying timber for a log house

Which one to buy?

Of great importance for the stability and durability of the log house is the time of harvesting wood. A number of experts believe that best wood chopped for a log house in the second half of summer and early autumn. At this time (after seed maturation), the tree's own moisture content is the lowest. The natural moisture in a tree is not just water, but juices from nutrients attractive to pests. Closer to winter, the tree again gains sap for wintering: in winter it sleeps, but lives, and maintains its life with reserves of sap. Indeed, the Mediterranean peoples cut down ship timber at the autumn equinox, but in regions with severe winters, this argument is invalid.

AT northern countries The best forest for felling has always been considered winter. The point is not that in the old days the forest was cut selectively - logging by quarters in countries rich in wood was practiced centuries before the appearance of the Gulag and convicts; The NKVD used the already proven methods of forest management. And it’s not that it’s easier to take a log out of the forest on a sleigh than on a cart: the carrying capacity, cross-country ability and maneuverability of a horse-drawn sleigh outside a well-trodden road is worse than that of a cart.

The point is in the ways in which the tree is protected from freezing moisture in the vessels. If the juices of the tree freeze, it will die without being damaged by frost. Higher plants "got used" to use one of the anomalous properties of water - in the capillaries, its freezing temperature drops; nanotubes manage to keep water viscous, but still liquid at –130 Celsius (!). Coniferous plants are very ancient, their vascular system is not yet so perfect, so for the winter they add more resinous substances to the juices; it is this juice that flows out in the spring when conifers are tapped onto the resin. From a tree cut down in winter, water evaporates during drying, and the resin remains. In a loaded structure, it is still fluidly squeezed out to the open ends of the vessels, where it quickly bituminizes in the air and blocks the way for pests, and only occasionally very rare species of them are capable of biting into or leaking spores through a dry cambium.

Note: as a result, the highest quality timber for log cabins is harvested in regions with high air humidity, abundant snow and fairly low winter temperatures. In the Russian Federation - from Karelia in a strip to the south to the Pskov region.

Log selection

Not measured timber for suitability for processing is rejected by geometry very roughly, and measured timber is calibrated as far as the properties of wood allow: 1% in length. That is, the curvature of the log, and, more importantly, the difference in the diameters of the butt and top parts of the pole (butt and top of a raw business log) is allowed 1 cm / m. If you throw logs into a log house as you have to, then the warp of a 3x4 m bath from 10 crowns of 30 cm logs can run up to half a meter. Therefore, the logs prepared for the log house must be sorted before drying, disassembled along the sides of the building, and marked - which crown of which wall and in which direction will fall.

If you collect a log house in bulk, it will turn out the same as on the left in Fig. below. Not only is it not worthy normative term- for a 12-crown, due to the need to trim each crown, it will take 4 more logs. Which cost a lot of money. After 5-10 years, the log house splits in bulk, caulk climbs out of it, and rots or is affected by a bug. But the frame, assembled from logs, the butts and tops of which are mutually oriented from crown to crown (on the right in the figure), only settles down and gains strength over time.

In a log cabin made of rounded logs, it is also desirable to orient the butts with tops in the opposite direction; this increases the real life of its service by 1.5-2 times against the calculated one. In both cases, in addition to the evenness of the calculation, the direction of convergence of annual layers plays a role. The resinous balsam is squeezed out more towards the butt, and in a properly folded frame, the logs seem to help each other resist external influences. It is difficult to determine the direction of convergence of the layers according to the texture of the rounded log, and on spruce and larch it is often impossible, but the “tails” of the knots serve as an excellent indicator: in crowns adjacent in height, they should be in different directions, compare on the left and right in Fig.

Note: when sorting logs into a log house, put those that are thicker on the crowns, which are lower. Up the thickness of the logs should decrease. How can a beer bottle stand better - on the bottom or on the neck? A log house made of logs, dispersed in size in height at random, will stand at best for a standard period.

Which cut?

A log house in a corner has one advantage: a significantly lower material consumption. The correct protrusion of the obla is from 1 foot, i.e. more than 30.5 cm. Now they give an oblo of 20-25 cm, but this also reduces the maximum possible service life of a log house from this log by 1.5-2 times. A short oblo makes sense only in a frame made of re-glued logs. Let's estimate: a log house in the oblo 6x9 of 12 crowns. A total of 96 protruding ends of 30 cm each - 28.8 m of a log! The obla took either almost 5 short logs, or more than 3 long logs. For money - it bites painfully. In all other respects - in terms of strength, rigidity, durability, appearance - a log house in a corner is inferior to a log house with a remainder. Especially - in terms of durability: none of the log cabins, which are more than 100 years old, are cut into a corner. The obla serve as a kind of bituminized plugs that do not let pests into the tree, and the grooves of the log house (see below) are closed. The ends of the log cabins in the corner are more open external influences.

crown crown

Salary is the lowest and most responsible crown of the log house. The quality of the entire log house as a whole depends a lot on the quality of its assembly. The conditional plane covering the flashing crown must be horizontal, so the logs for it are selected and prepared very carefully.

Not only in Runet, but also in many old printed manuals for carpenters, one important point in laying the crown crown is missed: what to do with the gap between it and the foundation, which is formed on 2 sides, if the crown crown is done like the rest (shown by red arrows in pos. .1 and 2 fig.)

Lay with a board or a beam? Gate for harmful living creatures, rot and mold: there is no cambium on lumber. Lay the foundation with ledges (pos 3)? And where is it said about such people with SNIPs? It will crack when settling. A correctly crowned crown of a log house, especially a log house for a house, is assembled using a half log (pos. 4):

1. On the short sides of the log house, 1 (one) most thick log, which converges least to the vertex; ideally cylindrical.
2. On the long sides, 2 logs are selected, possibly more equal in thickness and also less converging at the tops.
3. Edges are removed from long logs for laying on the foundation so that the heights of the cross sections of the logs from the edge plane to the top of the cut D are equal along the entire length, see below.
4. The log on the short sides is halved lengthwise or a chopping block is cut out of it (still useful) so that the height of the resulting slabs T is equal to half D along the entire length.
5. The slabs are laid on the foundation.
6. Long logs are placed on the slabs with the edges down and the tops in opposite directions.
7. A line is marked on long logs for cutting grooves for assembly into a flake (an inverted bowl, see below).
8. Long logs are removed and grooves are selected in them.
9. Long logs are put in place - they will be protruding halfway over short slabs.
10. Further assembly of the log house is carried out in accordance with the daily manuals (see below).

Note: do not forget here and everywhere further when selecting grooves, give an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking! And how to make a carriage for a chainsaw for longitudinal sawing of logs, see the video below.

Video: carriage for longitudinal cutting of logs for a log house

How to remove edging

Removing the edge from long logs (they, by the way, are called beds in the crown, and short croakers are called boys) for laying on the foundation is also a responsible matter. Walking along the bed with a chainsaw will not work, you will have to work with your hands. Bring down the edge into the prone, as shown in the inset at the top left in fig. lower, maybe an experienced carpenter, and even then in a hurry. The fact is that the ax under its weight will turn with the blade down, and the tactile (muscular) feeling of a person has a threshold of sensitivity. A beginner without developed muscular skills will feel the departure of the ax when he is already biting below the cuts (see below), automatically turn it up, and the whole edge will turn out to be humpbacked. Correctly, the edge is removed from the bed with an ax in the air (see also the figure below):

• From a pair of beds, a thinner one is chosen, placed with its top (!) On a support (preferably in a groove on it) and temporarily fixed with brackets, pos. 1 in fig.
• The axial (central) line is marked with a plumb line, a notch is made along it on the support, and a plumb line is marked corresponding to the width of the edge in half the diameter of the log (forming the edge). Measure the height of the bed at the top D, pos. 4, pos. 2 and 3.
• Shift the bed with a butt on a support. On a plumb line, the axial one is set vertically at the top. D is laid on the butt, and according to the marks on the butt and the top, the outline of the edging is beaten off with a coated cord, pos. 4. It will turn out to be slightly divergent, but when laying down, its top line will be horizontal.
• Repeat operations with another bed, setting aside the resulting value D on its butt and top.
• They put beds on the boys, mark the bowls on them and collect the crown crown, as described above.

Longitudinal grooves

Before continuing work, we will decide what will be the longitudinal grooves in the logs of the log house, or buy logs with which grooves. The stability and durability of the log house depend on this more than on the methods of cutting, because. it is the longitudinal grooves that keep the caulking, and if they are not properly executed, are the most convenient place to start warping and / or introducing rot and pests.

The corner groove (pos. 1 in the figure) can be cut with any ax, incl. marching. But it needs a lot of caulking, and when the log cabin shrinks and shrinks, the wings of the groove diverge, revealing layers of wood without cambium, less resistant to external influences. Waste material is large. It is used for self-construction of non-residential buildings on hastily from waste or free materials, for example. taiga huts from deadwood.

The lunar groove (pos. 2) is often called Canadian, and the angular Russian, which is wrong. Both of these grooves are Russian, because the traditions and techniques of wooden architecture were brought to Canada and to America in general by the Russian pioneers of Alaska. The lunar groove does not open during shrinkage / shrinkage (pos. 3). To cut it down (see below), you need a carpenter's ax, or, better, an ax, or, even better, an adze. The disadvantage is that the caulk needs quite a lot of rough (in a puff), and to it - high-quality finishing (in a set).

If a log house is cut from a wild log, then so that the rudimentary crack goes as it should, and the groove is made shallow, 2-3 cm, longitudinal pioneer washed down (marked in bright green in pos. 2). If the frame is made of galvanized or glued logs with a moon groove, then it has already passed its own shrinkage and shrinkage, and only the weight remains in the structure. Then a deep, through the entire sapwood to the core, a pioneer gash is made on the vault of a log, pos. 4a. Under weight load, the groove will not diverge by itself, but will compress the arch of the lower log.

Note: over time, cracks will appear on the outer surface of the log, but they are not dangerous - they do not violate the strength of the structure and occur when the core of the log turns into pure lignin, which is unsuitable for the settlement of pest germs.

You need to be very careful when choosing ready-made logs with a moon groove (and Finnish, see below). The groove should sit on the lower log with wings in a small, up to 7 mm, gap inside, pos. 4a. If the upper log sits on the lower one, somewhat softening the professional jargon, “booty on the pussy”, pos. 4b, i.e. the gap is “squeezed out” onto the wings of the groove, this is an unacceptable marriage - caulking from such a groove will immediately climb, and a log house from such logs is unlikely to stand for more than 10-15 years.

Finnish groove, pos. 5, is also performed without an upper cut on wild logs (pos. 5a) and with a cut on rounded and glued logs, pos. 5 B. Moss suitable for caulking a log house is less the further north, and flax, hemp (on tow), and even more so jute, do not grow in Finland. Therefore, the Finnish groove requires a minimum of rough caulking and does not require finishing at all. However, you can choose it only at the sawmill or, manually, with a special tool being a very experienced carpenter. Just in case, we give a drawing Finnish groove for the most common log with a diameter of 260 mm (see the figure on the right); the required accuracy is 0.25 mm.

Log cabin in oblo

Depending on local conditions and the type of foundation, a log cabin can be assembled into an oblo different ways. It will come out of the wild forest from the harvester and not overly expensive.

Cutting the logs into the bowl, see fig. below., or Russian (but - see above) is the easiest: the marking of the bowl and the longitudinal groove is carried out at the same time along the upper log, which is not processed deferred, see fig. on right. The upper log is placed in place, the groove on the lower crown is marked with a line. The upper log is removed, the groove is selected, the upper log is put back. Marking accuracy maximum possible: good log house in a bowl can be folded from completely clumsy junk logs. But the stability of the frame in the bowl is low, even if it is from a selected winter savage - water flows into the bowl and the longitudinal groove. Temporary and non-residential buildings are hastily cut into the bowl; sometimes - log cabins with a relay. They are collected away from the foundation upside down (from the upper crowns to the lower ones) and then the crown by crown is transferred to the foundation, see above. This is a bad way, because either during a rough assembly, the log house will not converge exactly, or, if you do not give allowances for caulking, it will come out initially slitted.

Assembling the log house into an okhlop, i.e. into an inverted bowl (“Canadian”, and again - see above!) requires careful marking and selection of grooves (see below), because they are also marked in place, but separately, and the upper log after marking is processed separately to the side. But every one of the log cabins, which are over 100, are collected exclusively in a hood.

There are several varieties of grooves in the upper log for a log house, see the right in fig. above. A cut into an okhryap is also called a Russian castle, and from this point of view it is “even more rustic” - choosing a groove with a flat bottom is much easier than a circular (semicircular) one. It is used for non-residential buildings (baths, etc.) without internal load-bearing partitions; if on a non-buried foundation, then on stable, well-bearing (from 0.7 kgf / sq. cm) non-rocky and slightly heaving soils.

Cutting into a comb into a comb (sometimes they write - into a oval comb) is made for the same buildings, on the contrary, on moving soils in areas where the tree is not subject to decay. A little common way, because. water flows into the longitudinal groove, and the upper log must be removed and processed to the side to select the groove. The cut into the okhryap with finishing (edging) of the ends is decorative - this is how log cabins are placed, the outer and inner surfaces of the walls of which are hemmed under the finish. Log cabins for residential buildings are placed in a hood with a fat tail in areas where the tree is prone to rotting, on moving soils, and in a hood with a fat tail and a comb - on them, but in drier places and where pests are not so common.

Marking logs for a log house

The marking of grooves on logs for log cabins in the oblo and in the corner is done in various ways, but in both cases it requires the utmost accuracy from the master. And therefore it is considered in one section.

When marking the logs of the log house into the flank, the bowls are first marked (on the left in the figure; the calculated ratios for both grooves are also given there), but they are not cut down yet. Attention: if you put up a frame from a wild log, then the diameter d for marking the bowl must be taken from the lower, already laid in the frame, transverse relative to the new log!

The longitudinal groove is also marked in place and along the lower, but now the longitudinal log, i.e. lying under the new, pos. 1 on the right in fig. It is extremely important not to skew the line (pos. 2), so it is either put on the hammer handle or equipped with a guide pin (see above); experienced carpenters do not disdain this technique, who care primarily about the quality of work, and not about window dressing.

After marking, a longitudinal groove is first sawn under the sample. With a chainsaw (pos. 3), this is not so simple: you need, without seeing the end of the blade with the chain, to draw it exactly along the arc of the circle, so many craftsmen still prefer not to cut the groove, but to cut it with an ax or, in extreme cases, carpentry axe. In any case, cuts / notches are made evenly along the length so that the groove is, as it were, divided into squares. After that, the groove is cut down with diagonal blows with a carpenter's ax (pos. 4) or, better, with an ax. If the log house is made of wild logs, this is enough - the logs will sit tightly on top of each other. If the groove is on a rounded log, then it is not completely selected with an ax, but is brought clean with an adze. Now you can also choose a groove-bowl, lay a rough caulk and put the log in place.

Note 6: the selection of grooves and the laying of logs in place are carried out in pairs - two short, two long. After assembling each crown, its horizontalness is checked and, if necessary, trimmed. And do not forget about 5-7 mm allowances per caulk!

Log cabins in the corner (corner) are assembled almost exclusively in the paw. There is no need to use methods for connecting beams (see below) for a material length of up to 12 m: a round log is much stronger and stiffer than a rectangular beam of that transverse area.

How to mark logs for a log house in a paw is shown in fig. A paw with a notch is used if any of the sides of the log house is longer than 4.5 m.

If you are going to put a log house in a paw, be sure to consider the following: first, due to the transition of the spike and the groove under it from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even crowns (see above), the markings must be made, respectively, straight or mirror. The second - when assembling from a wild log, the smallest of the diameters of the logs of the previous already folded crown is taken as the base size for breaking down into 8 shares in height (see Fig.). The matter turns out to be troublesome, therefore, often the upper and lower edges are removed from the logs for a log house in the paw, so that a semi-edged timber of the same height is obtained. Then the same template is suitable for marking, the log house will come out stronger, warmer, and more suitable for a bath. True, it will cost 4 extra logs for 3-5 crowns, so that in the end a log house made of logs in a paw turns out to save material only in length, and its consumption in cubic meters may turn out to be even more than not chopped into a cloud.

About the reinforcement of the log house

When dismantling old, but still quite suitable for their intended purpose, log cabins on either side longer than 14 feet (4.27 m), it turns out that almost all of them are additionally fastened with oak or beech dowels, see fig. on right. The strength of a log house made of wild logs on dowels acquires extraordinary over time: it can be torn off the foundation with jacks without gun carriages, loaded by a crane into the back of a truck and transported intact to the museum. And if you still need to break it, then sometimes you had to use a ball-woman, otherwise the disassembly turned into an unbearable burden.

The diameter of the dowels for fastening the log house is 40-60 mm. Length - 100-130 mm. Blind holes for dowels are drilled 1.5-2 mm after marking, processing the fit in place of all logs of the next crown. In rough caulking, holes are cut out for dowels at the site, on the contrary, 3-5 mm wider. The dowels are carefully hammered into the lower log with a leopard. Then the top log is placed and set in place with a heavy piece of log with a handle, the same as a wooden rammer.

Log cabin

A log cabin is predominantly “homemade” - it gives, in addition to the ability to increase the size of the building (see above), walls that breathe more freely than log cabins, which is more suitable for residential premises. A bath from a bar is best obtained by Finnish or Russian light family. Also see video:

Video: do-it-yourself log house using a bath as an example

Longitudinal connection

The possibility of building up beams for a log house in length is so significant that it should be stopped in the first place: if the joint of the beams disperses, then the best thing that follows is complex repair. And in the worst case scenario - temporary eviction from the house and the bulkhead of the log house.

Connection in a direct lock (on the left in the figure) is the most reliable mechanically and technologically simple, but locks. It is recommended to use it if it goes under an additional finish that protects against moisture, for example. siding sheathing. The connection in an oblique lock does not draw in moisture, however, it is more difficult to perform and it is less durable. The junction of the beams into an oblique lock must be reinforced with dowels fastening the crowns (see below), 0.6 m on both sides.

Half-tree connections, straight and oblique (on the right in the figure) with dowels at the joint in the log house, are absolutely unreliable: operational stresses can simply cut off the dowels, and the beam will suddenly turn out of the log house; especially if the joint is oblique. The author of these lines, in the days of his rather careless youth, had a chance to witness how a beam “shot” from a log house killed a covener on the spot. Literally brains blew out spray. The case is already painful, and then there is the investigation - the corpse after all. The local district police officer sided with the hard workers, but an investigator drove from the region on a special important matters. And this Stalinist last child with a circular mark from a cap on the brain, instead of all the convolutions, was tightly sewn up where people have thoughts: nothing happens without a culprit. The accident is a Trotsky-bourgeois invention. As it turned out, not at all from ideological considerations: in order to please the excuse for this, I beg your pardon, garbage from the Soviets, the team had to fork out almost half of their summer earnings. There was simply no more available. As the men discussed this incident among themselves, the boatswain from the flagship of the fleet of Peter the Great would have heard. But enough of the black lyrics, back to the topic.

Corner connection

A log house from a bar can also be assembled into a cloud and into a corner without residue. It is not so rare to put log cabins in the field: more or less “primordially” they still look, but most often log cabins are still assembled in a corner: the savings on material here are not relative.

Methods for assembling a log house from a bar into an oblo are shown on the left in fig. The half-tree connection is the simplest and least durable. It is used for non-residential buildings of small size (up to 4x6 m) without load-bearing partitions. There is no big difference in putting such a log house in the okhlop or in a bowl, because. grooves with a flat bottom and sheer walls. The connection in the fat tail is used if the log house is made of beams that are composite along the length; in okhryap - for log cabins of residential buildings from a single bar. Most of the sales kits for log cabins are prepared for joining into ocher.

The connections of the corners of the log cabin are shown at the top in fig. Butt joint quality bars significantly saves material, but fragile. Assembly on a plug-in spike for corners is rarely used, and only for buildings no larger than about 3.5x5 m. More often, a plug-in spike connection is used as an additional one when installing load-bearing partitions.

If, however, the corner of the log house is butt-joined on the plug-in spike, then it is highly desirable to use a pair (more precisely, three) spike-groove (s) of the dovetail type, see fig. The thorn itself is made of hard, thin-layer hardwood, resistant to external influences, for example. oak. A mirror template for marking the dovetail is not needed, it is enough to alternate the overlapping bars of the crowns adjacent in height.

The connection in the paw is most often used in log cabins of baths and non-residential buildings; we will dwell on it below in more detail. The butt joint on the root spike (see Fig.) is technologically the most difficult, but durable, suitable for residential buildings and has the most valuable quality: it allows the use of defective warped timber for the assembly of a log house. After a year of exposure to shrinkage, it levels out, and if you remove it from the log house, it will be no worse than the standard one. However, at least 4-6 high-quality bars should be placed in each of the log walls between the “screw” ones, i.e. it is impossible to buy a complete substandard for a log house at a cheap price: the connection in the root only allows you to put into action a marriage that accidentally wormed its way into the party; In no case should you put a defective beam in the crown crown!

When assembling the log house, the warped beam is gradually pulled into place with hoists, in the course of straightening it is fastened with the already laid dowels, see fig. on right. When it comes to the spike, it is cut to fit into the groove, hammered into place with a leopard and wedged, turning the very end of the warped beam so that it fits snugly on the bottom. Now we need a technical break in work for 2-3 days, so that the strongest internal stresses disperse in the forcibly stuffed timber.

The half-tree connection on the plug-in spike is rarely used, because. requires the most selective ideally even timber of natural drying (not in a heat chamber or microwave). It is more used when installing partitions, butt joint on the plug-in spike, see fig.:

Note: about the corner joints of a log house from a bar, see also the video review below.

Video: about the corner joints of the beam

Partitions in a log house

Another important advantage of a log cabin is that it is much easier than a log cabin to partition it inside with both load-bearing and simple planning bulkheads. Methods for inserting partitions into a timber frame are shown below in fig. above with the connection diagrams of the timber.

Butt joint assembly on a plug-in spike is used to install light bulkheads: it does not weaken the frame itself, and the bulkhead beam may not be the same size as that in the frame. A half-pan tie-in (so to speak, on a dovetail “half-tail”) is most suitable for load-bearing partitions of a residential building, because. practically does not weaken the chopped box, but, on the contrary, strengthens it and itself adheres to it tightly. The spikes of the semi-frying pan should be mirrored from crown to crown (shown by the red arrow).

The insertion of a single partition with a frying pan (dovetail) weakens the frame, but strengthens it if the box-shaped structure itself that holds the load well is attached: chopped canopy, summer kitchen, bath at the house, and other chopped extension on a common foundation with the house. On the 2-sided main tenon, partitions are cut that are subject to periodic operational loads; preim. thermal. For example, enclosing the kitchen, cold hallways, a bathroom, or next to which there is a house stove. In this case, the tie-ins on the root spike of the crowns, starting from the 2nd, should alternate with butt joints on the plug-in spike (shown by the red arrow), otherwise the frame itself will be excessively weakened.

Installation of a log cabin

The main problems of a log house from a bar are the transverse displacement of the bars due to warping and squeezing out the caulk. There are a lot of beam profiles for log cabins designed to avoid both (see some samples in the figure), but there are no methods yet to put a log cabin without reinforcing it with dowels (through dowel pins).

How the installation of a log house in a paw from a bar is carried out, shown in the following. rice. on the example of a bar 150 mm. Marking for other sizes (top left) is carried out similarly: top - square; on the side - a bevel at half the thickness. The tongue-and-groove junctions should alternate mirror-like from crown to crown, bottom left. Hardwood dowels must be included in lower beam 1/3 of its height; based on this, the drilling depth limiter 5 is set on the right in fig. Plus an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking, don't forget! The diameter of the dowels is 30-40 mm; the diameter of the holes for them is 1.5-2 mm smaller. It is better to hammer pins with a snow leopard, so much less expensive oak or beech round timber will go to waste. From the edge of any opening to the nearest dowel must be at least 120 cm.

Beams for a log house imitating a log

Sometimes, to imitate (however, not very convincing even for a non-specialist) a log cabin for a log house, a 3-edged edged beam or a lamella of the same profile is used. It's so popular that 3-sided timber is sold under the clever name D-log. D-logs are often sold with ready-made tenons and grooves for butt joint (in a corner) or in a cloud. When buying these, keep in mind that they are “mirror-like” and go on sale as “round-flat” and “flat-round”, see fig. on right. From those and others, opposite walls are assembled in pairs (if the bars are of the same length) or adjacent crowns adjacent in height, if the length of the bars is different.

Openings in a log house

A log house without windows and doors was placed only in the old days as a cruel punishment for dangerous criminals, rebels and those objectionable to the authorities. Given a choice, many convicts preferred death penalty by beheading the head or by hanging by planting in a cut. So anyone will have to make openings for windows and doors in a log house.

An opening in a log house is much easier to make than in any other wall: it is simply cut out, see fig.:

It is necessary to fulfill only 3 conditions: at least 1.5 logs or at least 2.5 beams must remain at the top and bottom of the opening; the opening cuts into the upper and lower logs / beams at half their height, and from the edges of the opening to the adjacent, corner, partition or the nearest dowel must be at least 1.2 m. logs; in all respects it would be better to make them from ordinary edged boards. So the work - to put up a log house with your own hands - does not consist of difficulties alone.

2016-02-24, 22:12

Tool Removal of bark Laying out the log Initial marking Cutting down the share Cutting the planes of the shares Adjusting the planes of the shares Logging grooves

Cutting down a log house yourself is quite real. Now we will find out all the details and see, well, the ax is in your hands.

You will not find such material on the Internet anywhere else, since everywhere you can see the felling of a log house from first-class logs, but it is not easy for an inexperienced person to get first-class round timber, so we will cut from what God sent, not at the expense of quality.

At that time, God sent a forest felled by a hurricane, and there is no question of the first grade even close. Nevertheless, we will cut down an excellent log cabin for a bath from it.

Get the first grade - excellent, make your job easier.

Tool

For the manufacture of a log house, you will need the following tool:

2. Hacksaw or chainsaw

3. Scherhebel planer or electric planer

4. Level 40 - 60 cm.

5. Metal ruler 40 - 60 cm.

6. Building cord-malka.

7. Template.

About the template in more detail, as it has to be done. Template for paw Canadian (dovetail). Here he is:

Template dimensions

A - width, taken relative to the crown (thin) part of the thinnest log. The width of the template is taken already this part by 4 centimeters. For example, if the thickness of the log is 20 cm, then the width of the template is 16 cm.

B - 3/4 of A

C and D - 2/4 of A

E - 1/4 of A

Bark removal

First of all, we remove the bark from the logs. From all. So that the log under the bark does not rot, and in warm weather, the bark beetle would not become active under it.

This operation is done with a shovel, sharpened like this:

With the bark removed, the logs can lie for a very long time, but if the expected storage period exceeds six months, it is necessary to ensure ventilation, and cover the foot from above with roofing material, or something similar.

Log layout

Work begins with the laying out of the log. To do this, two stands are made with recesses, on which the log is given the position necessary for marking.

If the material is of the first grade, without noticeable bends, the log is laid out along the annual rings so that the part where the annual rings are thinner will later turn out from the outside of the log house.

If the material is not of the first grade, then the log is laid out in accordance with the existing bends, which must be turned either up or to the outside. Or both. Just not down and in.

Be careful. At first glance, the log may seem very straight, but a look along it will immediately determine the curvature.

When laying out, we also determine the direction of laying the log in the log house relative to the previous one. The butt part fits on the crown, and vice versa.

Initial markup

Logs are selected as follows: 1st crown - the thickest, then thinner and thinner towards the middle. from the 7th crown thicker again, and the last clamping crown is thick.

For marking, the log is trimmed. Special fixtures for this, no - it is done by eye, but the smoother the trimming is done, the less will be the fit and the probability of cracks in the corners.

Trimming is done exactly in size, the same for all logs of the wall.

After trimming according to the level, we draw a horizontal line along the widest part of the end of the log (in the first grade this is the middle), mark its center, and take the width of the template from the center.

We draw two lines along the width of the template, along the vertical level, thereby starting the outline of the cheeks of the paw.

Then, along these lines, we stretch the thread between the ends of the log, and along it we draw the longitudinal part of the cheeks, 25 - 30 cm long. Only all are the same.

As a result, at the ends of the log you will get the following markup:

Paw cutting

By marking, we cut out the cheeks of the paw.

We adjust the width of the cheeks exactly according to the width of the template so that it fits snugly, but without tension. While the hand is not full, it is better to make them with a small margin, and then hone with an ax to the desired size.

A chainsaw for cutting cheeks is used when there are knots on them for years. If there are no knots, then the entire segment is cut down with an ax.

We proceed to the manufacture of the seat of the paw. The first two logs have one seat - the top one.

We put a template on the paw in the middle and draw along the upper border. The narrow part of the template is on the outside of the wall.

From the edge of the border outlined by the template, we draw a line upward along the vertical level on both sides. The distance from the border to the top of the log, on the wide (inner) side, must be at least 5 centimeters.

.

Then we outline the edge of the seat, cut through the end, and cut down the log segment. It is important when cutting the butt, not to make a cut below the border of the template.

A paw is also made at the opposite end of the log. Then, according to the same instructions, a second log is made, which in the log house will be parallel to the first.

We pass to the transverse logs of the first crown. Trimming, marking and cheeks on the transverse log are done in exactly the same way as on the first one. But the paw is a little different, since it is already full, with two landing sites, upper and lower.

First, the lower platform of the paw is made. We measure about 5 cm from the bottom of the log, set and outline the template.

Why about 5 cm? Since the logs do not differ in perfect evenness, and the trimming will most likely not be perfect at first, the template will most likely take the plane away, so it will need to be adjusted along the lower leg, and this adjustment can eat another 1 - 2 cm.

As a result, we will get the normal paw depth. The depth of the fluke should be about 0.5 of the width of the groove, so if the average groove width is 12 - 14 cm, then the depth of the paw is normally 6 - 7 cm.

Don't forget that the narrow end of the template is on the outside. The upper edge can not be drawn yet. I have outlined it here to make it clearer for you.

Now we draw the inner edge of the paw according to the level.

We turn the log over, and, just like on the first log, we draw an edge and make a cut, and we also cut out the paw, only if the top of the paw was made on the first log, now, on the transverse one, we make the bottom.

We do not touch the upper landing yet, since the lower one will still have to be adjusted.

After that, we take an electric planer and process the knot protrusions. If there are sharp bends, protrusions on the log, then we trim them as well.

It remains for us to adjust the planes of the paws of the longitudinal and transverse logs, but how to do this, so as not to repeat again, I will show on the second log, on which there will already be a groove.

In the meantime, let's set the transverse and display the entire structure along the diagonals and the level. The level is taken from the bottom of the first logs.

Adjustment of the planes of the paws

We have ready the top of the paw of the first log and the bottom of the paw of the first transverse. Now you need to fit these planes.

First of all, we draw a vertical. This is done with the help of a level and a wedge.

Having exposed the log in this way, we look at the gap, determine and outline the places on the paw that need to be hemmed so that there is no gap and the log lies strictly vertically.

After fitting, we measure the resulting depth of the lower plane of the paw, and according to this size we draw according to the template and cut down the upper plane. Thus, the paw will be located exactly in the middle of the log.

Now we are preparing a triple log. It will be longitudinal, with a groove, and all subsequent logs will be made according to the same instructions.

We expose the log as mentioned above, cut out the cheeks and cut down the bottom of the paw with a depth of about 5 cm, process the knots and ledges with a planer and install it on the previous one.

We expose the vertical with the help of a wedge, and look at the gap between the logs.

September 1, 2017
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Construction technology

The process of building a log house can be divided into five main stages:

Stage 1: project preparation

The design of the log house does not, in fact, contain any nuances. At this stage, as with building any other house, you need to clearly imagine what the building will be, and then draw it on paper.

If you can’t decide on the layout, take as a basis ready-made house designs on our portal.

When the dimensions and layout of the future house are known, you need to decide on the type of roof. From myself I can recommend building mansard roof. This will allow you to expand at least one and a half times usable area houses with virtually no increase in the cost of its construction.

When the project is ready, count the amount of materials and draw up a diagram.

Stage 2: which log to use

Before purchasing materials, beginners are usually tormented by the question - from which log is it better to build a house, rounded or chopped? The rounded log has an exact shape and diameter, in addition, there is a groove in the lower part, which simplifies the stacking of logs and prevents the formation of gaps between the crowns.

A chopped or debarked log has a bottom layer of bark. Thanks to the resin that covers it, it is more resistant to moisture and decay. But on the other hand, the shape of such a log is less even, which somewhat complicates the construction. So does it make sense to build a house from chopped logs?

It's up to you, of course. The only thing I note is that at present there are all kinds of protective impregnations that make any wood moisture resistant and resistant to negative biological influences.

Keep in mind that in addition to logs, you will need other materials to build walls:

• Nagels for connecting the crowns of the house to each other;
• Mezhventsovy heat-insulating material.

Stage 3: building the foundation

The construction of a strip foundation usually takes about a third of the total budget allocated for the construction of a house. In addition, the strip foundation takes at least a month of time, or even more. Since wooden housing is lightweight, in most cases it is more expedient to build a columnar foundation.

Its principle is to build block or brick columns on a sand and gravel cushion. The distance between the posts, which are installed in rows, is one and a half to two meters. From above, all columns are connected with a grillage (beams).

For unstable soils and uneven areas, it is better to use a pile-screw foundation. The principle of its device is even simpler - metal piles-drills are screwed into the ground, which are connected from above with beams.

The price of these foundations is an order of magnitude less than the strip foundation. However, they have one significant drawback - they do not allow a basement or cellar to be built under the house. Therefore, for the construction of an underground room, you still have to make a strip foundation.

Regardless of what kind of base you build, be sure to waterproof it horizontally to protect the walls from moisture.

Stage 4: building walls

After preparing the foundation, we proceed to the main stage - the construction of the walls of the log house. The instruction looks like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Laying the first crown: Prepare a log along the length of the future building; Cut the log lengthwise into two equal parts; Lay the two halves on the foundation on two opposite sides; Make sure that the halves are laid strictly parallel to each other, and fix them to the foundation with studs or anchors; Then prepare two whole logs, make bowls (grooves) in them for the longitudinal halves of the logs and lay them across the transverse halves; Fix the logs on the foundation with anchors; Immediately you can lay the first row of logs of internal partitions; Also at this stage, floor beams are cut.
	Laying subsequent crowns: Now you need to lay the logs on the longitudinal halves with your own hands, cutting out the bowls for the transverse logs. Thus, alternating the laying of transverse and longitudinal logs, crown after crown is erected, and the walls rise to the required height. The only thing, do not forget to lay interventional insulation between each crown; After laying the third transverse row, drill holes in the logs according to the diameter of the dowels with a depth to the middle of the first crown. Make a hole pitch of about one and a half meters. Then insert dowels into the holes. After laying the fifth crown, install the dowels in the longitudinal logs in checkerboard pattern, as shown in the diagram. Thus, install dowels in transverse and longitudinal logs through a row. The dowels should enter the holes freely enough so that they do not “bite” when the house shrinks.
	Hole cutting: Mark the location of all openings; To the left and right of the openings, temporarily fasten the crowns with boards so that they do not fall apart; Cut out the openings with a chain saw, as shown in the photo; Fasten the logs in the openings with boxes and dismantle the temporary boards.

This completes the construction of the walls.

Stage 5: building a roof

Now you need to lay the floors and install the roof. Work should begin with the pediments, which are built from a log "pyramid" according to the same principle as the walls. To connect them and give the structure rigidity, several runs should be used.

Further work is performed in the standard way, i.e. just like building any other house.

Conclusion

We figured out the main points of building a log house, otherwise you should not have any problems. The only thing I recommend is to additionally watch the video in this article. If you did not find the answer to any of your questions, leave it in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 1, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Log buildings have been popular for centuries. This is also relevant at present. Do-it-yourself log cabin has certain advantages, such as strength, heat capacity, and besides, it is a natural material. But in order to enjoy a sauna under a log house, you need to understand the technology of assembling a log house and the rules for caring for it. This article and video is about how to make a log house for a bath with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a log cabin for a bath

Log cabin advantages:

When starting to build a bath, you need to consider the following:

In order for a log house to last for many years, it is made from certain types of trees. Especially strong and relatively inexpensive varieties are usually used.

Logs under the frame must have a certain size. For the construction of the log house, logs with a diameter of 20 - 26 centimeters are used. Logs must be the same in thickness, and not have bends and cracks..

Log assembly options

You can assemble a log house with your own hands, but still you need some experience working with wood.

Before starting assembly work, it is necessary to draw a construction project, on the basis of which the method of attaching the log house to each other is selected.

The classification of the log assembly depends on:

• From planning.
• From the method of attaching logs to each other.
• From processing logs.

Depending on the layout, the building can be:

• Four-wall (square or rectangular).
• Five-walled (lack in the layout of an intermediate wall made of a log house).
• Figured (hexagonal or semicircular).

There are two methods of attaching logs or timber to each other: “in the paw” and “in the bowl”. They create a stable structure, the difference lies in the creation of special grooves.

The advantage of fixing logs "in the bowl" is that the corners of the log structure are not subject to gusts of wind. The only drawback is the significant increase in wood consumption.

When attaching logs "in the paw", less wood is consumed, but the building is exposed to the action of winds.

Both of these methods are quite complicated, so it's better to visualize them with the help of a video.

Taking into account the specifics of processing, the log house is erected from logs and profiled timber. Very rarely, ordinary logs and glued beams are used for felling.

Do-it-yourself material for assembling a log house

As already mentioned, the frame is erected from two materials: rounded logs and profiled timber. They have advantages and disadvantages.

A rounded log is created by processing an ordinary log to an ideal geometric shape. To achieve this, a special machine is used, with which the upper layer logs being the most durable.

As a result, a rounded log is obtained, which has certain advantages:

• Due to the ideal geometric shape, the building acquires a perfect look and there is no need to decorate it additionally.
• The processed rounded log is the same along the entire length. Due to this, the building is erected strictly according to the level, without distortions, the joints sit down without gaps.
• Log construction usually shrinks over the years. When using rounded logs, the smallest proportion of shrinkage occurs.
• When used for a log house, such material makes the building stable and durable.
• Unlike ordinary logs, round logs carry less heat loss.

Profiled timber is processed on a special machine. The resulting beam on the sides has a flat surface, and the top and bottom are embossed, in the form of grooves.

Thus, the profiled beam is characterized by the following positive qualities:

• Its cost is lower than round logs.
• Thanks to the grooves, the structure is more stable, and the construction of the building is faster.
• Due to the flat side surfaces, rainwater cannot enter the horizontal joints, so there will be no stagnation and decay of wood.
• Profiled timber has minimal shrinkage.
• It does not need to be additionally subjected to decorative processing.
• Due to its low weight, the profiled timber is suitable for any type of foundation.

Stages of building a log house with your own hands

To build a log house with your own hands, you should know that this is a very difficult process and certain skills are needed. The correct construction of the structure is carried out in several stages.

Prepare the area and pour the foundation. It must be taken into account that for each material prepare an individual foundation. The easiest way to use a strip foundation because of its strength and ease of construction. After pouring the foundation, it is allowed to settle for a month, and then proceed to the next stage.

A layer of roofing material is laid on the foundation. A board, 5 centimeters thick, is placed on it, and a layer of tow is laid on top to increase the heat capacity of the building.

The first crown of the log house is laid on the tow. The logs used tend to have the largest diameter among all the others. Before laying the first crown on the logs along the entire length they make notches 15 centimeters wide. This ensures tight contact between the log and the board.

After laying the first crown, the next crowns are erected to the very top. Between them it is necessary to put tow. For the stability of the structure, a spiked connection of logs is created.

After building a bathhouse from a log house, it is left for at least 1 year to shrink the logs. It should be taken into account that shrinkage can deform window openings and other structural elements. To avoid this, it is necessary to make technological gaps that will disappear after shrinkage.

During shrinkage, floors and roofs can be dealt with, because they are not subject to deformation.

After shrinkage of the bath, the tow is rammed between the crowns and numerous gaps. Such work is carried out every year.

After that, the construction of the structure from the log house will be considered completed. Video attached.

In order for the bath to be in working condition for a long time, you need to know the subtleties when building a structure:

• Logs for a felling are harvested in the winter. This is necessary because during winter harvesting, the log undergoes less decay, and it is resistant to various precipitations. To check whether logs were harvested in winter, iodine is dripped onto them. A bluish spot should form.
• In order for the building to serve as long as possible, all wooden structural elements are treated with an antiseptic.
• To increase the heat capacity of the structure and give it a beautiful appearance, it is necessary to clog all joints and gaps with tow. It should not protrude beyond the logs, otherwise it will get wet and rot.
• If the method of fixing logs "in the paw" is chosen, it is necessary to protect corner connections. To do this, they are sheathed with boards.
• It should be remembered that during shrinkage, the height of the building will decrease by 5 or 10 percent.
• Cutting the material to the center will help prevent cracks in the log.
• Caulking works are carried out in dry weather.
• They increase the stability of the structure and prevent the displacement of the logs by fixing them with dowels installed in the holes in the center of the logs.

Thus, making a log house with your own hands, although a difficult process, is doable. In the video presented to this article, you can find complete information on this topic.

For many, the question of building an inexpensive house is acute. After all, your own separate housing is one of the main necessary vital factors.

Of the known building materials the cheapest, warmest, healthiest, providing comfortable accommodation, is a tree.

Of the inexpensive wood, pine is the most budgetary. And it is very desirable and preferable that it be harvested in winter. Such logs are less prone to deformation and decay. The diameter of the log, so that the house does not freeze in winter and is warm, you need at least 250 mm., And preferably 270 mm. But the larger the diameter size, the more expensive the cost of the logs will be.

To make the house really inexpensive, you need to build it yourself. But without experience in this matter it will be difficult. Yes, and marriage, and sometimes irreparable, is unlikely to be avoided. The best option will order the manufacture of a log house and its assembly at the enterprise, and interior decoration Save money by doing the work yourself.

Now there are a lot of companies offering their services for the design, manufacture and installation of turnkey log cabins. Check out a few of them, listen to reviews, look at the objects they have built and make your choice according to the value for money.

Choose the project you like from the available ones, or pay for the design and calculation documentation of your individual project. The standard designs already available will be cheaper. Some businesses charge a nominal fee for finished project, subject to placing an order for the manufacture of a log house at their enterprise.

Each construction consists of several stages:

Foundation device

This type of work is expensive, time consuming, but can be much cheaper if you do it yourself.
Under a wooden frame, you need a strong, not wide foundation. It can be of several types:

• tape, monolithic,
• columnar,
• concrete pads,
• pile with a grillage device.

On sandy, sandy soils, you can build a monolithic strip foundation. On soils with groundwater occurrence shallow from the surface is better suited pile foundation with a grillage device, which acts as a reinforcing concrete beam that does not rest on the ground. In order to save money, you can make a foundation of concrete pillows at an equal distance from each other, or the most economical option is a columnar foundation. He's pretty durable too.

During foundation work, it is necessary to lay tunnels for the necessary communications or leave holes so that later they do not have to be punched in an already finished foundation.

The construction of the walls of the log house

It is better to entrust such work to specialists, but if you have the desire and experience, then consulting with specialists and this work may be up to you.

You can build the walls of a house from logs in any season. Under the lower crown, on the foundation, a layer of waterproofing material is laid - for example, roofing material. And on top of it, across the foundation, prepared boards are placed, previously treated with an antiseptic solution.

They install the first row of logs, aligning it in a horizontal plane along building level. After correct installation the first crown, it is necessary to place a sealing material over the entire plane of the logs. It comes in several types:

• tow,
• jute,
• PSUL,
• PPE (polyethylene foam tape with adhesive backing), etc.

The most traditional and ecological moss, now there are many new seals, with good performance. But still, it is better to give preference to natural.

Between themselves, the crowns can be fastened with metal pins, or wooden dowels in a checkerboard pattern.

After the installation of the log house, he is given time to sit down, from 4 to 6 months, depending on the quality and dryness of the wood. Boards are laid on the assembled frame and covered with waterproof material.

Roofing

When the time for shrinking a house from a log house is over, you can make a roof. First, for laying ceiling beams in the last, upper row of logs, cuts or cuts are cut to the size of the ceiling beams. This is done through an equal meter distance, beams are laid in them and the construction of the roof begins. On a wooden house, so that the roof does not warp, or that it does not tear any elements, it is not tied rigidly to the Mauerlat and gables.

Assemble the roof frame, and then arrange the crate. For soft tiles they make continuous upholstering of the OSB, and if the roof is covered with ondulin. enough framing. It is recommended to cover the batten with vapor barrier materials.

Arrangement of window and door openings

This work is done after shrinkage of the log house, using a chainsaw. Window and doorways reinforced with casings.

The rest of the work, to reduce the cost of construction, you can do yourself:

Log processing and caulking, antiseptic treatment

The logs are processed by cleaning, and then grinding, using a grinder or grinder, with a different-sized emery surface. After such treatments, there is a significant improvement appearance, is ennobled.

Caulk joints between the upper and lower logs, joints. This is done with bundles from various natural and synthetic materials, or paste. Caulking is needed both outside and inside so that cold bridges do not form and there are no gaps.

Finished with antiseptic solutions. Fortunately, complex products are now available - “two in one”, or “three in one”, which, when applied, create, in addition to antiseptic treatment, a decorative effect, since they are also a varnish that you save on if you use universal solutions.

Window and door installation work

This can be entrusted to a specialist, or you can do it yourself in order to save money.

Ceiling device

When a ceiling is made in a wooden house, it is usually made of two parts: rough and clean. The rough ceiling looks like a box where insulating materials are laid. and already a clean one is attached to it. It can be made from different materials from OSB, boards, lining; hanging and tension. The most inexpensive will be the OSB ceiling.

Floor installation work

They involve laying a log, making a subfloor, which, like a draft ceiling, can be filled with insulating material. The finishing floor is made at will from boards or plywood, chipboard or OSB.

Electrical installation

If you do not have the skill, then all electrical work should be done by specialists. this includes works:

• laying wires in cable channels,
• electrical connection,
• installation of switches and sockets,
• installation of lighting fixtures.

Plumbing installation

Implemented PVC pipes, metal-plastic and metal. Plumbing work consists of:

• riser devices,
• connection of devices.

Sewerage and plumbing work

If the site does not provide for a central sewage system, then it is arranged by themselves. With a close occurrence of groundwater, one or more septic tanks are dug in to clean and filter waste products. And if the soil is with deep groundwater, you can build cesspool from concrete rings.

Inside the house, a riser is laid and plumbing fixtures are connected:

• toilet,
• bath,
• shells.

Interior wall decoration

It can be made any way for every taste and color, from any materials that suit you. But the wood itself, sanded and waxed or varnished, will be very decorative for a long time. And this is the most economical option.

Experts advise decorating the walls inside with wood panels, a blockhouse or clapboard. And in the kitchen and in the bathroom, before tiling the walls, for strength and evenness, GVL sheets are attached to the walls.

Many types of work are quite possible to do with your own hands. In this case, the cost savings will be significant, but the construction time for an inexpensive log house in this case will be delayed. Here you need to proceed from the possibilities and desires. Combining one with the other, prioritize in order of importance. If you need an inexpensive turnkey log house in short time, then it would be better for all the work to be done by specialists from one enterprise, many organizations have discounts on a range of services. Well, if you are limited in finances, then such enterprises have a system of loans to pay for work, or take on your own those types of work in which you are sure that you can handle it.