Instructions for the installation of flexible tiles: laying nuances, stages and cost of work. Laying soft tiles Soft roof tiles installation

In order for the roof covering to last as long as possible, the laying of soft tiles must be carried out in accordance with the installation rules developed for this material. Each manufacturer has their own installation instructions, but in general, the basic installation rules are the same.

Installation conditions

Installation instructions for bitumen tiles regulate the temperature regime for working with the material. Laying is recommended to be carried out at an air temperature above +5 °C. Shingles - the elements that make up a flexible tiled roof, are connected to the surface of the base not only with metal fasteners, but also thanks to a special self-adhesive layer on the underside. High adhesion and tightness of the mounted coating is ensured by heating from sunlight - the shingles are reliably soldered to the base and to each other.

If the installation of shingles is carried out in cool weather, the adhesion of the sheets may not be strong enough. To heat the adhesive layer of the shingle, you can use a hot-air burner (building hair dryer). It is also practiced laying material on bituminous mastic. But there may be difficulties with the installation of the ridge coating, since the material needs to be bent. In cold weather, bituminous shingles become more rigid and brittle, and in the process of giving the shingle the desired shape, microcracks may appear in the material.

If roofing work has to be carried out in cool weather, the packages with tiles should be kept in a warm closed room for about a day.

If it is necessary to lay the roofing decking from bituminous piece material in frost, a small enclosed space is arranged on the roof of the structure - a rack frame covered with polyethylene film is mounted. Heat guns are used to create the required temperature inside a limited volume.

Base for roofing

Under the base for the installation of bituminous piece roofing is meant a truss system with a continuous crate. To ensure the proper functioning of the roofing cake, a vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the inside of the rafter legs. From the outside, a heater is laid and a diffusion membrane is attached, which removes moisture from the heat-insulating layer and does not let it inside. Along the rafter legs, the slats of the counter-lattice are stuffed over the membrane.

Laying soft tiles requires an even solid base made of edged or tongue-and-groove boards or sheet materials - OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood. Humidity of the material for the crate should not exceed 20%.

Sheet material is laid with the long side parallel to the eaves. Boards must span at least two runs and be attached to each rafter leg. The joining of the crate elements is carried out on a support, while the joints of adjacent rows of the crate should be located on different supports.

It is important to leave a deformation seam between the elements of the crate - wood materials change their linear dimensions under the influence of temperature and moisture.

Roofing cake, which includes shingles, should be well ventilated. This will significantly reduce the formation of ice on the surface in winter, as the transfer of heat from the premises of the house to the roofing will decrease. In summer, the ventilation gap, the height of which should be at least 5 cm, reduces the temperature inside the roofing pie, as a result of which the attic room overheats less. In order for air circulation to be sufficient to remove moisture from the inside of the roof, special holes are left in the lower part of the roof (in the filing of overhangs), and an exhaust duct is equipped in the ridge.

Lining layer

Installation of flexible tiles requires the use of a special lining material. Piece bituminous coating is used on pitched roofs with a slope angle of at least 12 °. If the slope of the slopes is 12-30 °, a waterproofing lining is attached to the entire surface of the continuous crate. A slope angle of more than 30° requires the installation of waterproofing material in the valleys, along the eaves, above the chimney pipes and ventilation slopes, at the junction of the roof to the walls, around the attic windows. This allows you to reliably protect places where there is a high probability of accumulation of snow and ice.

The principle of installation of the lining layer depends on its features. The composite material of polymer film and bituminous filler is self-adhesive: it is carefully laid on the crate and rolled to ensure tight adhesion and remove possible bubbles. Polyester waterproofing material is laid using bituminous mastic and is additionally fastened in the upper and side parts with a 20 cm spacing with nails with wide flat heads, which are then treated with mastic. The lining layer is formed from strips of rolled material laid parallel to the eaves. Longitudinal overlap should be 100 mm, transverse - 200 mm.

The technology of laying soft tiles provides for certain principles for installing the lining in places of probable leaks. The width of the waterproofing layer is:

• for valleys - 500 mm from its axis in each direction;
• for the ridge - 250 mm each;
• for end and cornice overhangs - 400 mm.

To ensure the tightness of the overlap places, they are coated with bituminous mastic.

Mounting planks

To protect the crate from rain moisture, gable and cornice strips are mounted. Installation of cornice strips (droppers) is performed on top of the lining layer. The instruction requires the installation of elements with an overlap of at least 200 mm. Fasteners should be arranged in a zigzag (staggered pattern) with a step of 10 cm. Gable strips are designed for the ends of roof slopes. Fastening is also carried out using roofing nails installed in 10 cm increments.

The waterproofing carpet of the valley is laid after the installation of the planks on the slopes. The color of the carpet is selected taking into account the color of the shingles. The material is fixed with nails in 10 cm increments. If there are vertical structures on the roof slopes, a waterproofing coating is also laid around them.

If the arrangement of the chimney passage through the roof is planned to be carried out after the installation of the finish coating, when planning the roof, the place where it will be located should be noted.

How to properly prepare the roofing system for the installation of soft tiles can be found in the thematic video.

Installation of roofing material

First of all, eaves tiles are laid - a special element of a soft piece roof. Not all manufacturers offer special tiles for the cornice overhang. In this case, it is required to use a strip of material that is cut out from an ordinary shingle - the petals are cut from it. Stepping back from the cornice overhang 2 cm, the resulting elements are glued.

Before starting installation on the roof, markings must be applied. The chalk lines indicating the arrangement of the rows of material make it possible to lay the shingles strictly parallel to the eaves. The vertical line indicates the middle of the slope. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the coating is mounted from bituminous tiles, taken at random from several packs. This allows you to level the differences in the shades of the material.

Laying of shingles starts from the middle of the overhang of the eaves - the shingles are mounted to the right and left of the first one. The protective film from the elements of the roofing is removed immediately before installation. The shingles are pressed tightly against the base, and then additionally secured with roofing nails driven in above the groove: 4 pieces for each shingle.

The first row of shingles is located in such a way that their lower edge is 10-15 mm higher than the lower edge of the cornice shingles. Laying is carried out with the expectation that the petals of the bituminous elements cover the joints of the eaves shingles. The petals of subsequent rows with their tip should be above the cutouts of the previous layer or at their level. In places where the shingles adjoin the gable strips, the material is cut off along the edge of the roof, the edges are glued using bituminous mastic, and they must be smeared by 10 cm.

In order not to damage the bottom layer of the tile, when cutting off excess material, place a small plank or piece of plywood under its edge.

Arrangement of the valley

The installation of a soft tile roof requires a special approach to creating a reliable and durable valley structure. Before laying ordinary tiles, a waterproofing lining is mounted under the valley, to which the flexible tiles are melted with a hot air gun or fixed using bitumen-polymer mastic.

Work on the arrangement of the valley should begin with a slope with a more gentle angle of inclination or a slope with a shorter length.

On the slope opposite the chosen one, parallel to the axis of the valley, at a distance of 30 cm from it, a line should be drawn. The shingles that reach this line from the first slope (with an overlap of the valley axis) are cut along the line and fixed with mastic or fused with a hot air gun. All shingles coming from a gentle (or short) slope are mounted in this way. Then a line is drawn on this slope, parallel to the axis of the valley and 10 cm from it. The shingles that reach the line from the side of the opposite slope are cut exactly along the line, and their upper corners should be cut to approximately 60 °.

Roofing nails can be used at a distance of at least 30 cm from the axis of the valley. Therefore, when arranging it, the material should be glued or welded.

Ridge coating

Laying of the ridge coating is carried out after the installation of ordinary tiles. For these purposes, cornice elements can be used. In other cases, the material is cut from ordinary shingles:

• if the shingle petals are rectangular, they are cut off, and the remaining wide strip is mounted on the ridge;
• the shingles that form a pattern of hexagons during laying are cut into hexagonal fragments, from which the ridge coating is made.

To simplify and secure work with the roof ridge, scaffolds should be mounted.

Straight strips are heated with a hot air gun, bent along the axis and laid on the ridge with an overlap of 50 mm. Fixation of each strip is carried out on 4 nails.

Hexagonal fragments are mounted with the short side along the roof ridge overlapping in the wind that is predominant for the area. The overlap should be at least 5 cm. The ribs of the hip roofs are similarly formed, while the installation of the elements starts from the bottom.

How to lay soft tiles

The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that self-assembly is quite possible. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to the adhesive base, additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.

Flexible shingles can be used on roofs of any shape

Roofing cake for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

• waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
• on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
• solid flooring.

Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. In such a simple way, not only is the attic or attic protected from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but also excess moisture that accompanies human life is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.

The waterproofing membrane is laid over the rafter legs

Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and mineral wool is used as a heater. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If there is a cold attic under the soft tiles, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.

On top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will help maintain the normal humidity of roofing materials.

The crate is made of edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm

The crate is made of coniferous boards (mainly pine). Thickness of boards - not less than 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.

The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.

The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

• OSB 3;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements - to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. Sheet material is fastened with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Most often, soft tile flooring is made from OSB.

Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will keep the wooden flooring even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.

The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option is a frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

The thickness of the batten and flooring

Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

Groove, which is installed behind a wide brick pipe

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions for which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.

We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.

Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs

The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.

Planks are joined together

The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, a spillway system is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.

Laying waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, in the valley and along the slope, a waterproofing underlayment must be laid. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Regardless of the slope, the waterproofing carpet is laid along the overhangs, in the valley and on the ridge

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.

The joints are smeared with mastic and should not be less than 10-15 cm

Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. The minimum width of the carpet on the cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).

How to determine the width of the carpet along the eaves

In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bituminous mastic, the material is compressed.

Lining carpet

The lining carpet, as well as the waterproofing carpet, is sold in rolls of meter width, the back side is covered with an adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.

• If the slope of the soft tile roof is between 12° and 18°, the lining carpet is laid over the entire roof area. Installation starts from below, from the laid waterproofing carpet. The overlap of the panels is 15-20 cm. The joints are additionally smeared with bituminous mastic, the upper edge is fixed with nails (galvanized or stainless steel) with a flat cap.

With a small slope of the slope, the lining carpet is solid

With a slope of more than 18 °, the carpet is rolled out only in places where the roof is bent

When using bituminous tiles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver Tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

How to cut carpet on a roof

Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.

Fronton (end) plank

Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They cover the laid roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.

Mounting the gable

These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Slope marking

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This marking makes laying easier - the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.

To make the installation of soft tiles easier, make markings in the form of a grid

Valley carpet

On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.

A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.

The pattern is mounted first on the front of the pipe

The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.

The front pattern winds up a little on the sides

Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. The back wall is installed last. Its parts go to the side.

With proper installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.

The surface of the underlayment is smeared with bituminous mastic

The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

Around the pipe there is a gutter from a valley carpet 8 cm wide

The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.

Fastening the strip on the back of the pipe

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

All joints are sealed

Conclusion of round pipes

For the passage of ventilation pipes there are special passage devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.

Lay the penetration 2 cm below the edge of the tile

Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. According to the applied contour, a hole is cut in the substrate, into which a round pipe is led out.

The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.

The skirt is smeared with mastic

The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.

starting strip

The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually it is a ridge-cornice tile or an ordinary one with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.

Starting lane markings

Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.

Starting strip fixing

If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

The first row of soft bituminous tiles is laid, stepping back from the starting strip 10 mm

Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

• With a slope of 12° to 45°, each shingle is nailed with 4 nails. The nails are nailed 2.5 cm away from the visible part of the tile. It turns out that one nail "holds" two tiles.

Scheme of fastening soft tiles

The location of fasteners on steep slopes

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.

Valley design

With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut

When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.

What should happen

Decoration of the pediment

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut off in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

The tiles on the pediment are cut, stepping back 1 cm from the protrusion of the pediment plank

Installation of the skate

If the flooring in the area of ​​the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

Installation of soft ridge tiles

The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).

The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. The resulting tiles cut off a corner - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.

Ribs and kinks

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.

How to lay tiles: bituminous product

Scientific and technological progress has not bypassed any branch of human activity, including the production of building materials. Nowadays, there are many products that are used for arranging the roof, soft tiles are especially popular among them. It is worth noting that any roofing material will last the entire (or even longer) warranty period if the installation technology is followed. The advantage of bituminous shingles over competitors is as follows: it forgives minor laying flaws, it can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Soft tiles can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

The device of a roof with a soft tile.

Laying shingles in winter is not the best idea, most manufacturers recommend that all work be done in positive temperatures (from +5). The fact is that the sheet with “tiles” must be attached to the wooden base and the lining carpet, the surfaces are fastened with a self-adhesive layer, the tightness of the coating is ensured only in bright sunlight, which gradually “melts” the adhesive. But in sub-zero temperatures, you can start preparatory work: mount rafters, wooden flooring, insulate the structure, and produce steam and waterproofing.

If there is no other way out and you need to put the house into operation in the winter season, then these recommendations are especially for you! First, erect a metal or wooden structure on top of the roof, cover it with a special noise-proof or simple plastic film. Inside, the "second roof" will be heated by diesel heat guns, so you can maintain the optimal positive temperature. By the way, "teplyak" allows you to carry out plaster work.

Laying shingles

As a base for shingles, a material with a flat surface (for example, OSB, tongue-and-groove plywood or edged board) and a moisture content of not more than 20% is suitable. Place the joints of the boards in place of the supports. The thickness of plywood and boards should be optimally correlated with the pitch of the rafters, for example, we list some values:

1. With a rafter pitch of 60 cm, the thickness of the board should be 2 cm, and plywood - 1.2 cm.
2. With a step of 90 cm, the thickness of the board is 2.3 cm, and the plywood is 1.8 cm.
3. With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the board is 3 cm, and the plywood is 2.1 cm.

Why is ventilation needed? There are at least two points here:

1. To reduce the formation of icicles and ice on the roof in winter.
2. To drain water from the crate, roofing material.

Bituminous tiles.

Most often, a rolled insulation product is used as a reinforcing lining, which is mounted from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm. Seal the seams with glue, and fix the edges with nails in 20 cm increments. If the slope of your roof is 18 degrees or more, it is possible to install a cushioning layer only in valleys, on cornice overhangs, near chimneys, where the roof adjoins vertical walls.

We mount cornice strips, pediments, valley carpet, ordinary tiles

To protect the lathing from moisture, on the cornice overhangs (at the top of the lining carpet), install metal cornice strips (droppers), overlap - from 2 cm. Nail them with roofing nails in a zigzag manner, step - 10 cm. in 2 cm (step - 10 cm).

To increase the water resistance of the design in valleys, lay a valley carpet on top of the underlayment layer, which would match the color of the tiles. The pitch between the nails is 10 cm. Next, it's up to self-adhesive eaves tiles, lay them along the cornice overhang butt-to-butt, removing the protective film. Step back 2 cm from the bend of the cornice strip, nail the elements near the perforation points, and after the fastener place, cover it with ordinary tiles.

Fastening of a flexible tile.

To avoid color discrepancies, it is recommended to use roofing elements mixed from several packages. Start laying ordinary tiles from the center of the cornice overhang to the end parts of the roof. Remove the protective film, attach the tile to the intended place, nail the element with nails (4 nails above the groove line; if the roof slope is more than 45 degrees, then increase the number of fasteners to six).

Start laying soft tiles so that the edge of the first row is located 1 cm higher from the lower edge of the eaves product, and the “petals” hide the junctions. The "petals" of subsequent layers should be flush with the cutouts of the elements of the previous row. At the end, cut the material along the edge, glue it (a strip of glue is about 10 cm). At the bottom of the valley, leave an open strip of 15 cm.

Ridge tiles are obtained by dividing the tile into 3 parts according to the perforation points. Mount the elements with the short side parallel to the ridge, nail with nails (two on each side). Now a little about the passages through the roof! Antenna openings are supplied with rubber seals; smoke - must be isolated.

Consumption and application method of sealing adhesive

To seal the overlaps of ordinary tiles on the valley carpet and underlayment carpet, junctions, passages of ventilation systems, bituminous glue is needed. Let's talk about the consumption of the composition:

1. To process the overlaps of the underlayment carpet (glue application width - 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue for each linear m.
2. To process the overlaps of ordinary tiles on the valley (glue application width - 10 cm), you need 0.2 liters of glue for each linear m.
3. To glue an ordinary soft tile on the end elements (glue application width - 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue for each linear m.
4. To process brick walls and pipes (over the entire surface), you need 0.7 liters of glue for each linear m.

Before work, of course, you need to clean the base from dirt, bulk materials, oil; apply bituminous mortar on dusty and porous surfaces. For glue, you need a spatula, make the layer thickness about a centimeter. Rub the seams in the brickwork with the composition flush with the tiles. Bonding will occur in 3 minutes (complete drying - from one day to two weeks), hurry up! At low temperatures, heat the adhesive before applying the composition.

Caring for shingles

We list the rules that will help increase the life of the structure:

1. Check the condition of the roof twice a year.
2. Sweep leaves and other small debris from the surface with a soft brush as carefully as possible so as not to damage the coating.
3. Keep the roof free to drain, and keep drains and gutters clear of debris regularly.
4. When cleaning the roof in winter, leave about 10 cm of snow on the roof, this will protect the material from frost. Do not use sharp objects to remove ice, as this may damage the shingles.

How to lay soft tiles with your own hands

The technology of laying soft tiles assumes that the shingle is fastened only in sunny weather. In no case should you heat it with burners. In extreme cases, it is allowed to glue the tiles on bituminous glue, try to warm up the attic, or the roofing itself with a building hair dryer.

Materials and tools

For styling you will need:

• sealant or roofing mastic;
• building strips for fixing junctions, cornice and front;
• ordinary galvanized and special roofing nails;
• knife for shingle cutting;
• construction dryer.

Stages of preparatory work

Before covering the roof with soft tiles, the roof must be properly prepared.

1. A roofing cake is formed.
2. A rigid and even base made of plywood, high-quality boards or OSB boards is laid on top of the windproof film, which is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic.
3. Under the tiles, a lining carpet is placed from the old roofing felt, if the roof is being repaired, or any rolled bituminous material. It is carefully nailed in places where the roof joins with other architectural elements, in places where the slope breaks, along the frontal overhang and cornice, in valleys and along the ridge. With a roof slope of more than 20 degrees, the material is nailed over the entire surface in increments of 15-20 cm. At the junction and overlap of the carpet sheets, it is treated with sealant or bituminous mastic.
4. A dropper (cornice strip) is nailed over the carpet, which will protect the construction of the crate from moisture. If, due to the architectural features of the roof and structure, it is not possible to nail it, the cornice strip is wrapped under the crate and fixed with nails every 5 cm.
5. Before laying soft tiles along the gable, end strips are also nailed to protect the crate and help to remove moisture down from the ridge.
6. Next in line are the ridge and cornice shingle strips. The shingle strips are nailed butt-to-butt, stepping back from the edge of about 2.5 cm. The joints are smeared with bituminous mastic and the free edges of the strips are glued onto it.
7. Further, attention is usually paid to the installation of the drain, in particular, they install brackets that will subsequently support its elements.
8. Separately, at the junction with walls, other slopes, ventilation pipes and other structures, in niches and other places where moisture is likely to accumulate, an additional waterproofing valley carpet is also created from bituminous materials. It is nailed with galvanized nails at intervals of 10 cm, and the edges are coated with waterproof glue or mastic.

Laying soft tiles

It is known that flexible tiles may differ in color depending not only on the batch, but also on the packaging. An important point is the need to use sheets from only one pack on each roof slope, or sequentially take material from all packages at once so that differences are not noticeable. Subsequently, the color of the coating will be corrected under the sun and become more uniform.

The laying of soft tiles begins from below the central part of the roof slope. The protective film is removed from the adhesive part of the sheet and it is firmly pressed to the place of fixation. The upper part is additionally fixed with four nails. At the same time, it is necessary to retreat 4-5 cm from the cornice-ridge strip. With its petals, the shingle of the tile should completely close its perforation. Along the edge of the pediment, the material is cut and glued with mastic.

An equally important stage is laying the coating in places near the ventilation. chimney and other structures. The base under the tiles in this place is treated with mastic. An appropriate hole is cut in the shingle according to the dimensions of the adjoining structure. It is fixed in place. If necessary, the base is again lubricated with mastic.

It is somewhat more difficult to lay tiles near the chimney. First, slats in the form of a right triangle are nailed in this place. With its right angle, it should face the pipe. Around the pipe itself, a lining carpet is laid in advance, at the overlap joints it is smeared with mastic.

Installation of soft tiles near the chimney pipe is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• the upper edge of the sheet rests against the pipe, placing it on a pre-prepared rail;
• a valley carpet is laid over a sheet of tiles;
• some of the sheets are lifted onto the pipe to a strand height of 30 cm, and the other is glued by about 20 cm and nailed to the roof;
• the carpet on the pipe is covered with an abutment bar or a metal apron;
• all seams are carefully treated with sealant;
• if necessary, if the roof slope is steep enough and the pipe is large, an additional gutter can be built to drain water from the chimney area.

The final stage of installation of flexible tiles

The remaining sections are overlapped with a shingle so that the petals of the next one cover the attachment points to the nails of the previous one.

Another important step at the end of the work will be the fixing of the ridge strip. It is divided into two equal parts along the perforation and placed on the ridge. Two nails are nailed on each side of the tile. The overlap must be at least 5 cm.

A good solution would be to lay an aerator strip, which will ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space. To create a ridge aerator, slots are cut out on both sides of the strip, which are subsequently covered with an aerator tape.

It is quite possible to make professional laying of flexible tiles with your own hands. If the technology is followed, the service life of the coating will be at least 35 years. If the roof is subjected to periodic inspection and minor repairs are made in a timely manner, its durability will increase by at least another 10 years.

Do-it-yourself installation of soft tiles

Laying of flexible tiles is recommended to be carried out at a positive air temperature, preferably more than 5 degrees. In the cold season, the base material should be warmed up at room temperature during the day.

Roof tiles are aesthetically pleasing and durable. However, neither one nor the other can be achieved if the installation technology is violated. We offer you to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for laying shingles.

Installation of tiles

1. Installation of the base

Requires a level and solid foundation. The plank flooring of the roof structure must be strong, dry, even and well ventilated from the inside. It can be made from moisture resistant plywood or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB-3). The flooring can also be made from edged boards 25 mm thick tightly fitted to each other, however, it is better to use moisture-resistant oriented strand boards (OSB-3) or FSF plywood for frequent use. In both cases, gaps of 3-5 mm thick must be made between the sheets to compensate for wood deformations. The thickness of the sheet material is chosen based on the step of the boards of the lathing, the slopes of the slopes, but in any case it should be at least 9 mm.

Pay attention to the shade - it may differ slightly in different packs, therefore, in order to create a color balance on the roof, shingles from 4-7 packs are mixed with each other. It is better to install the roof in dry weather with a minimum ambient temperature of up to + 5 degrees. If this is not possible, then the roofing for flexible tiles is prepared in advance: tile shingles are kept in a warm room for about a day after transportation. And at the stage of fastening the shingles, it is best to apply packs from a warm room, approximately 5-6 packs each, and during the process of fastening the shingles, it is better to warm up the adhesive layer with a building hair dryer.

2. Fixing the cornice boards

Cornice boards suffer from exposure to moisture, and meanwhile, gutters are usually attached to them. Strengthen and protect the eaves with a special metal bar. The cornice is reinforced with painted metal cornice strips. They are fastened to the boardwalk with special roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern - with a step of 12-15 cm. The overlap of the planks should be 30-50 mm.

3. Choice of underlayment

The carpet is made from two types of material. In the valleys and on the cornices, a self-adhesive underlayment carpet with a very strong polyester rot-resistant backing and a fine-grained sandy top layer will be used.

Along the internal fractures of the roof (valleys), a valley carpet should be laid over the lining carpet; on the back side of its edge, it is required to smear with mastic to a width of about 10 cm.

On the rest of the area, you can use a light lining material with a non-rotting polyester base and a non-slip polypropylene coating or a material with a fiberglass base and a double-sided dressing with mechanical fixation and an adhesive layer in places of horizontal overlaps.

4. Laying underlay carpets

Due to the capillary effect and under the influence of wind, moisture can seep under the coating. For additional sealing, self-adhesive (at the cornice overhangs) and fixed with nails (on the rest of the roof area) lining carpets are used.

The lining carpet is made from a special rolled material. It makes it more airtight and will be better if it is laid over the entire roof area. The rolling of the carpet is carried out horizontally, from the cornice overhang with horizontal overlaps of at least 10 cm. It is important to consider that on this overhang the material should deviate from the bend by 1-2 cm (for an average roof). The width of the indent depends on the length and angle of inclination of the slope itself.

Entrances to the cornice and pediment, as well as overlaps, are smeared with bituminous mastic using a spatula. Thickness of mastic - no more than 1 mm. At the end of the installation, the roll material is carefully fixed along the edges with roofing nails with a wide head. Step - 20-25 cm.

5. Strengthening the gable overhang

The gable part of the roof needs protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, wind, and mechanical influences.

To do this, painted metal end strips are attached to the gable overhangs, over the lining carpet, which are smeared in the process of laying the tiles themselves. To the supporting structure of the roof, the planks are fastened with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

6. Device valley

The valley, as you know, has a concave corner that collects the most moisture, so the correct installation of the roofing pie in this place will largely ensure the reliable operation of the building.

Consider the so-called "open" method of mounting the valley. On top of the lining carpet, along the axis of the valley, a special roofing material is laid - a valley carpet, for example, from TechnoNIKOL. Along the perimeter of the back side, it is smeared with bituminous mastic to a width of 10-12 cm.

On the front side, the carpet is nailed with roofing nails with an indent from the edge of 2-3 cm. Fastening step: 20-25 cm.

7. Tiling

For convenience, before making the installation of a roof of flexible tiles and maintaining the necessary geometry, horizontal and vertical markings are made on the lining carpet.

In this case, the vertical lines should correspond to the width of one sheet, the horizontal lines should be about 80 cm, which is about five rows of flexible tiles. Note that the markup is just a guide and not a fastener pattern.

• Laying begins horizontally along the eaves. The first strip is made with the help of universal ridge-cornice tiles. You can also use an ordinary, selected collection, but you will need to cut off the tiled “petals” from the shingle.
• Sheets are glued from the bend of the eaves of 1-2 cm, and additionally nailed. If an ordinary trimmed version is used as a “start”, then the back side of the shingle must be smeared with mastic where there is no adhesive layer.
• The second row is mounted from the center of the ramp - offset to the left or right by half the "petal".
• Further, the installation goes diagonally from the center of the slope in the form of a strip or pyramid. The elements are laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm with an adhesive layer. It is located on the back side of the shingles. Additionally, the shingles are attached to the base of the roof using special galvanized nails with wide heads.
• On the side of the gable overhang, it is necessary to cut off the upper corner of the shingle to repel rainwater. The shingle itself should be pushed back by 2 cm relative to the overhang. This is necessary for the free flow of water. Also, to protect against oblique rain, it must be smeared in the pediment area with mastic, to a depth of 10 cm.

8. Laying the tiled valley

When the laying process has reached the valley, then at this node the flexible tile shingles are laid in a chaotic manner on top of the valley carpet, after which they are cut so that the central axis of the valley becomes open, 5-15 cm wide (see the figure below).

When cutting under the shingles, a plank should be placed so as not to damage the underlying insulation materials. After that, the back places of sheets of flexible tiles that do not have an adhesive layer in the places where they adjoin the valley are smeared with mastic. Each shingle is fixed with roofing nails in the upper part no closer than 30 cm from the axis of the valley.

9. Mounting the ribs of the slopes

The ribs of the slopes are formed by shingles of special ridge-cornice tiles. Laying is carried out from the bottom to the top, and is attached to the base with four nails - two on each side.

10. Laying shingles

The shingles of the overlying row must be shifted relative to the shingle of the underlying row by at least 15 cm. The shingles that form the joint of the roof are cut along the axis. Then a slot is made for the lining carpet and the roof structure itself for the passage of air - at a certain interval and indent from the edge of the roof.

11. Coating with aerator

In the case of a ridge, they are covered with a plastic roofing aerator. It will allow excess moisture to freely exit from the roof space. The aerator is covered with ridge-cornice tiles; each element is fixed with two nails. Laying should be carried out from the side opposite to the prevailing wind direction.

12. Installation of connections

The joints mainly include the joints of the roof slope with horizontal and inclined walls, as well as chimneys. At the junction of the slope and the wall, a wooden triangular rail is nailed, on which the adjoining element is inserted. If it needs to be plastered and covered with a bituminous primer, because a valley carpet is laid on the walls and on top of the flexible tiles - to a height of 30-50 cm. The entire back area is covered with mastic. The sealing of chimneys and ventilation pipes is made from a pattern of a valley carpet. The upper part of the carpet is wound into a stub and closed with a metal apron, followed by sealing.

There is one caveat here - the installation of the pattern should take into account the cascading of water. Therefore, the front part of the pattern is first mounted, it goes onto the ordinary tile by 20 cm. The left, right and back parts "go" under the tile. The back pattern is mounted last.

The indentation from the side of the pipe and the rear is approximately 8 cm. All junctions where there is no self-adhesive layer must be glued with mastic. If the pipe is wide - more than 50 cm, then a groove is made from the back.

13. Fastening penetrations

Antennas, ventilation pipes and other roofing elements are sealed with special passage elements resembling an apron, whose lower edge is laid on top of a sheet suitable from below. Everything else is covered with shingles using mastic. Note that the passage element is pre-attached to the roof base with nails.
If you have any questions before installation, then as an addition, we recommend watching the video installation instructions for TechnoNIKOL Shinglas multi-layer tiles.

• Material prepared: Vladimir Grigoriev

Step 23 Use nails to fix patterns on skates and ribs.

Step 24 Make sure that the following elements of the material overlap the nail heads of the previous ones.

So, we considered options for how you can beautifully and quickly arrange the roof of a small building. Thanks to flexible tiles, high-quality waterproofing is provided, and the roof itself will acquire a truly original look!

Video - How to lay roll shingles

10.Onduline

The French company Onduline SA, established in 1944, appeared in Russia in 1994. The manufacturer offers a soft roofing material called Onduvilla, which is suitable for arranging an original and reliable roof. The product is a three-dimensional bituminous tile with an original shape and colors that imitate natural tiles. In the process of manufacturing soft roofs, the manufacturer uses environmentally friendly raw materials, which consist of bitumen, mineral fillers, cellulose fibers and pigments from natural dyes.

Onduvilla from Onduline is painted in 4 layers: the first layer is a primer, the remaining three are decorative layers that protect the roof from fading. Flexible tiles are lightweight, which reduces the load on the roof and simplifies the installation process. The manufacturer gives a guarantee for the material against water resistance for 25 years, the service life of the roof itself reaches more than 50 years.

• withstands any extreme weather conditions without losing its qualities;
• not subject to corrosion;
• does not heat up in the sun;
• does not condense;
• good sound-absorbing properties;
• each element of the material has a patented Smart Lock hydraulic lock.

• insufficient strength;
• flammability of the material.

Onduvilla leaf

9.Docke

Döcke Extrusion Holding is one of the leaders in the sale of materials for suburban housing construction in the Russian market. The manufacturer offers a series of Europa shingles for arranging roofs of various levels of complexity on cottage and low-rise buildings. The material can be used on roofs of any complexity and structure. Requirements for slope slope - 12-90 degrees. The Europa series contains different collection options suitable for every taste of the consumer. The holding's product range also includes other series of shingles, such as Premium and Standart.

• a wide range of products for every taste and budget;
• sheets with anti-slip coating;
• good soundproofing properties;
• the basis of the material is a double PVC film.

In order for the roof covering to last as long as possible, the laying of soft tiles must be carried out in accordance with the installation rules developed for this material. Each manufacturer has their own installation instructions, but in general, the basic installation rules are the same.

Installation conditions

Installation instructions for bitumen tiles regulate the temperature regime for working with the material. Laying is recommended to be carried out at an air temperature above +5 °C. Shingles - the elements that make up a flexible tiled roof, are connected to the surface of the base not only with metal fasteners, but also thanks to a special self-adhesive layer on the underside. High adhesion and tightness of the mounted coating is ensured by heating from sunlight - the shingles are reliably soldered to the base and to each other.

If the installation of shingles is carried out in cool weather, the adhesion of the sheets may not be strong enough. To heat the adhesive layer of the shingle, you can use a hot-air burner (building hair dryer). It is also practiced laying material on bituminous mastic. But there may be difficulties with the installation of the ridge coating, since the material needs to be bent. In cold weather, bituminous shingles become more rigid and brittle, and in the process of giving the shingle the desired shape, microcracks may appear in the material.

If roofing work has to be carried out in cool weather, the packages with tiles should be kept in a warm closed room for about a day.

If it is necessary to lay the roofing decking from bituminous piece material in frost, a small enclosed space is arranged on the roof of the structure - a rack frame covered with polyethylene film is mounted. Heat guns are used to create the required temperature inside a limited volume.

Base for roofing

Under the base for the installation of bituminous piece roofing is meant a truss system with a continuous crate. To ensure the proper functioning of the roofing cake, a vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the inside of the rafter legs. From the outside, a heater is laid and a diffusion membrane is attached, which removes moisture from the heat-insulating layer and does not let it inside. Along the rafter legs, the slats of the counter-lattice are stuffed over the membrane.

Laying soft tiles requires an even solid base made of edged or tongue-and-groove boards or sheet materials - OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood. Humidity of the material for the crate should not exceed 20%.

Sheet material is laid with the long side parallel to the eaves. Boards must span at least two runs and be attached to each rafter leg. The joining of the crate elements is carried out on a support, while the joints of adjacent rows of the crate should be located on different supports.

It is important to leave a deformation seam between the elements of the crate - wood materials change their linear dimensions under the influence of temperature and moisture.

Roofing cake, which includes shingles, should be well ventilated. This will significantly reduce the formation of ice on the surface in winter, as the transfer of heat from the premises of the house to the roofing will decrease. In summer, the ventilation gap, the height of which should be at least 5 cm, reduces the temperature inside the roofing pie, as a result of which the attic room overheats less. In order for air circulation to be sufficient to remove moisture from the inside of the roof, special holes are left in the lower part of the roof (in the filing of overhangs), and an exhaust duct is equipped in the ridge.

Lining layer

Installation of flexible tiles requires the use of a special lining material. Piece bituminous coating is used on pitched roofs with a slope angle of at least 12 °. If the slope of the slopes is 12-30 °, a waterproofing lining is attached to the entire surface of the continuous crate. A slope angle of more than 30° requires the installation of waterproofing material in the valleys, along the eaves, above the chimney pipes and ventilation slopes, at the junction of the roof to the walls, around the attic windows. This allows you to reliably protect places where there is a high probability of accumulation of snow and ice.

The principle of installation of the lining layer depends on its features. The composite material of polymer film and bituminous filler is self-adhesive: it is carefully laid on the crate and rolled to ensure tight adhesion and remove possible bubbles. Polyester waterproofing material is laid using bituminous mastic and is additionally fastened in the upper and side parts with a 20 cm spacing with nails with wide flat heads, which are then treated with mastic. The lining layer is formed from strips of rolled material laid parallel to the eaves. Longitudinal overlap should be 100 mm, transverse - 200 mm.

The technology of laying soft tiles provides for certain principles for installing the lining in places of probable leaks. The width of the waterproofing layer is:

• for valleys - 500 mm from its axis in each direction;
• for the ridge - 250 mm each;
• for end and cornice overhangs - 400 mm.

To ensure the tightness of the overlap places, they are coated with bituminous mastic.

Mounting planks

To protect the crate from rain moisture, gable and cornice strips are mounted. Installation of cornice strips (droppers) is performed on top of the lining layer. The instruction requires the installation of elements with an overlap of at least 200 mm. Fasteners should be arranged in a zigzag (staggered pattern) with a step of 10 cm. Gable strips are designed for the ends of roof slopes. Fastening is also carried out using roofing nails installed in 10 cm increments.

The waterproofing carpet of the valley is laid after the installation of the planks on the slopes. The color of the carpet is selected taking into account the color of the shingles. The material is fixed with nails in 10 cm increments. If there are vertical structures on the roof slopes, a waterproofing coating is also laid around them.

If the arrangement of the chimney passage through the roof is planned to be carried out after the installation of the finish coating, when planning the roof, the place where it will be located should be noted.

How to properly prepare the roofing system for the installation of soft tiles can be found in the thematic video.

Installation of roofing material

First of all, eaves tiles are laid - a special element of a soft piece roof. Not all manufacturers offer special tiles for the cornice overhang. In this case, it is required to use a strip of material that is cut out from an ordinary shingle - the petals are cut from it. Stepping back from the cornice overhang 2 cm, the resulting elements are glued.

Before starting installation on the roof, markings must be applied. The chalk lines indicating the arrangement of the rows of material make it possible to lay the shingles strictly parallel to the eaves. The vertical line indicates the middle of the slope. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the coating is mounted from bituminous tiles, taken at random from several packs. This allows you to level the differences in the shades of the material.

Laying of shingles starts from the middle of the overhang of the eaves - the shingles are mounted to the right and left of the first one. The protective film from the elements of the roofing is removed immediately before installation. The shingles are pressed tightly against the base, and then additionally secured with roofing nails driven in above the groove: 4 pieces for each shingle.

If the angle of the roof slope exceeds 45°, it is recommended to use 6 nails each for fastening curly bituminous tiles.

The first row of shingles is located in such a way that their lower edge is 10-15 mm higher than the lower edge of the cornice shingles. Laying is carried out with the expectation that the petals of the bituminous elements cover the joints of the eaves shingles. The petals of subsequent rows with their tip should be above the cutouts of the previous layer or at their level. In places where the shingles adjoin the gable strips, the material is cut off along the edge of the roof, the edges are glued using bituminous mastic, and they must be smeared by 10 cm.

In order not to damage the bottom layer of the tile, when cutting off excess material, place a small plank or piece of plywood under its edge.

Arrangement of the valley

Installation of tiles requires a special approach to creating a reliable and durable design of the valley. Before laying ordinary tiles, a waterproofing lining is mounted under the valley, to which the flexible tiles are melted with a hot air gun or fixed using bitumen-polymer mastic.

Work on the arrangement of the valley should begin with a slope with a more gentle angle of inclination or a slope with a shorter length.

On the slope opposite the chosen one, parallel to the axis of the valley, at a distance of 30 cm from it, a line should be drawn. The shingles that reach this line from the first slope (with an overlap of the valley axis) are cut along the line and fixed with mastic or fused with a hot air gun. All shingles coming from a gentle (or short) slope are mounted in this way. Then a line is drawn on this slope, parallel to the axis of the valley and 10 cm from it. The shingles that reach the line from the side of the opposite slope are cut exactly along the line, and their upper corners should be cut to approximately 60 °.

Roofing nails can be used at a distance of at least 30 cm from the axis of the valley. Therefore, when arranging it, the material should be glued or welded.

Ridge coating

Laying of the ridge coating is carried out after the installation of ordinary tiles. For these purposes, cornice elements can be used. In other cases, the material is cut from ordinary shingles:

• if the shingle petals are rectangular, they are cut off, and the remaining wide strip is mounted on the ridge;
• the shingles that form a pattern of hexagons during laying are cut into hexagonal fragments, from which the ridge coating is made.

To simplify and secure work with the roof ridge, scaffolds should be mounted.

Straight strips are heated with a hot air gun, bent along the axis and laid on the ridge with an overlap of 50 mm. Fixation of each strip is carried out on 4 nails.

It is unlikely that there will be such an owner who refuses to have the roof of his house covered with reliable, but at the same time affordable roofing material. And if you plan your own installation correctly, the structure will not only be well protected from possible damage and bad weather, but will also significantly save a significant amount of money.

Similar qualities are possessed by an innovative material, which is a flexible tile with a bituminous base (it is also called roofing tiles). Of course, such a roof cannot be called the easiest for self-production. However, it is not the most difficult either. One has only to understand the technological intricacies of installation, and the high-quality performance of such work will be quite real.

innovative material

The flexible tile represents the small sizes flat sheets. This one has one curly edge. Its basis, as a rule, is fiberglass or fiberglass. However, there are types that are made on organic cellulose, that is, felt. The basis of such a roofing material is coated on both sides with an impregnating composition, the main component of which is bitumen.

The front part of the flexible tile is sprinkled with a basalt granulator painted in a certain color. Sometimes mineral chips act as a dye. This or that color of a tile is given by special technologies thanks to which it remains within many decades. The powder present on the roofing tiles gives it a more beautiful look, and also protects the surface from various atmospheric phenomena, increases its wear resistance and neutralizes the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Sometimes it happens that in some places the dressing simply disappears. Such a defect occurs only with materials from the economy segment, moreover, it is easy to eliminate it with glue and mineral chips of the appropriate color.

Positive characteristics and disadvantages

Flexible tiles can be laid on single and multi-pitched roofs. Due to the fact that this material is small in size and has plasticity, it is simply indispensable for the arrangement of roofs of complex shapes (multi-pitched, domed, round). In addition, this coating looks great on buildings of various styles of architecture.

Among the positive qualities of flexible tiles are:

• durability (about 30 years);
• a significant operating temperature range, which allows the use of such material in both southern and northern countries;
• resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
• undemanding to special care;
• ease of installation, which allows you not to involve specialists;
• light weight, which can easily withstand the rafters of a small section;
• a small amount of waste remaining after installation;
• high degree of maintainability;
• good adaptability to the change in the geometry of the building that occurs during its shrinkage;
• the ability to withstand strong gusts of wind (with additional reinforcement by 6 nails);
• good heat-saving and soundproofing properties;
• resistance to acids, as well as to the negative effects of lichens, mosses and fungi.

Among the shortcomings are:

• high price;
• greater consumption of materials required for arranging the crate.

How to get started with roofing?

Soft material for roofs is used for slopes with a slope above 12 percent. If the roof is flatter, then there is a high probability of leakage at the joints. How to lay flexible tiles in this case, if there is a desire to use it?

With small slopes of the roof, it is necessary to spread a continuous special lining carpet on the crate, which helps protect the top layer from moisture.

In recent years, soft material has gained great popularity. However, not all developers know how to lay shingles. The instruction for its installation explains that such material should be placed on the crate, which differs from the usual one arranged for metal tiles or ondulin.

A kind of foundation designed for flexible tiles is Mauerlat. The truss system is based on it.

How to lay flexible tiles? It should be borne in mind that these do not like bumps, height differences, unnecessary bends and protruding nails. In this regard, the Mauerlat bars must be laid strictly horizontally. At the same time, for the lines that connect the ends of the Mauerlats at the ends of the building, an angle of 90 degrees must be observed.

How to lay flexible tiles? For it, it is necessary to prepare either a solid base, or knock down a crate with gaps of no more than 0.5 cm. This is where the difference between this system and any similar one ends. Otherwise, an exemplary roofing pie made of flexible tiles consists of a vapor barrier film laid on the rafters, on top of which a heater follows. Next, a waterproofing film, OSB board and underlayment are placed on the roof. The whole structure is completed with a soft roofing material.

How to lay flexible tiles on an iron roof? To do this, you need to level its surface. Of course, flexible tiles can be laid on top of existing material, but in this case, its crests will be visible visually, and the presence of air gaps near them will reduce the life of soft tiles. Using the option of leveling the surface, a crate of laths or OSB sheets is laid on top of the iron.

The bases for roofing material can be different. Let's consider them in more detail.

Solid crate

This is the first version of the base, which is made of grooved or edged boards, fastened end-to-end or with small gaps. It is desirable that whole boards be laid without splicing. If such an arrangement is not possible, the joints should be located above the rafters with careful fixing of the edges. When solving the question “How to lay flexible tiles?”, height differences should not be allowed. Otherwise, the tiles laid on such boards will accumulate water, and therefore there will be a high probability of its leakage.

Arrangement of plate material

The base for flexible tiles can be done differently. In this case, slab material must be laid on the crate made of unedged or edged boards. It can be moisture resistant OSB, DSP, GVL boards or plywood. The thickness of such sheets should not be less than 9 mm.

How to put flexible tiles on OSB and other boards? According to the instructions, such a substrate must be fastened so that the seams located in one row must be overlapped by another. In order to compensate for expansion during temperature fluctuations, a small gap (from 3 to 5 mm) can be left between adjacent sheets.

Features of mounting the crate

How to lay flexible tiles? Due to the fact that the material is not affected by mold and fungi, it does not deteriorate or rot. However, it is laid on wood, which is damaged by high humidity. What needs to be done in this regard? All wooden structures must be treated with antiseptic impregnations. However, this is not all.

In order for wood to serve for many years, it must be subjected to natural ventilation. For this, gaps of 5 mm must be left between the waterproofing layer and the base under the roof slabs. Sometimes for this they arrange a counter-lattice, to which the base is attached. In addition, special ventilation holes are made around the perimeter of the roof, placing them in overhangs. To prevent birds and insects from entering such holes, they are covered with nets.

Features of work at different times of the year

How to lay flexible tiles? It must be installed on a clean, dry and level surface. In this case, the work is carried out in several stages. It is desirable to start them in the warm season, when the air temperature is more than five degrees above zero. This will allow the coating to become airtight, which will create certain conveniences in work. It is desirable to comply with such a condition because when sunlight hits the material, the bitumen heats up. This process allows it to fuse with the plates into a single whole. Only in this case, the coating, which consists of individual sheets, turns into a monolith.

How to lay shingles in winter? If it is necessary to carry out work in the cold season, it will be necessary to use infrared heaters or heat guns. Only in this case it will be possible to heat up the material so that the installation conditions are close to summer ones. But you should not lay flexible tiles in severe frosts, even if heaters are at hand. In order to avoid downtime in work, you can do the installation of building structures of the roof, the installation and installation of thermal insulation.

Additional waterproofing

This is the first stage of installation of flexible tiles. A layer of additional waterproofing is laid in valleys, along overhangs, as well as in places adjacent to the building, on ridges and dormer windows. Such a layer will serve as additional insurance against leaks in places where the greatest accumulation of water will be observed.

Fasten the waterproofing carpet with roofing nails in increments of 40 cm. Along the lower edge, this distance should be more frequent (10 cm). The second layer must be laid on top of the first layer. In places where there is an abutment with a wall or pipe, the material should go on them by 5-10 cm.

This task is not faced by those who solve the question "How to put flexible tiles on the gazebo with your own hands?". After all, the pipe in this case simply will not be.

and end strips

This is the second stage of the ongoing work on laying shingles. It is necessary to protect the ends and cornices from water leakage. To preserve the material of the roof, it is necessary to fill the cornice strips along the entire roof overhang. They are fastened with nails, which are hammered every 10 cm. Moreover, one of them should be located at the bottom of the plank, and the second - along its top, and so on. Neighboring planks are stacked with an overlap of 5 cm.

The end strips are arranged according to the same scheme and with the same interval. Their installation begins at the bottom of the roof with a gradual movement to the ridge.

Laying the valley carpet

In places where the roof slopes are joined (in the valleys), a special protective carpet should be placed. It has a greater thickness than a waterproofing coating, due to the required protection of the slopes, where significant water flows pass. The valley carpet must be rolled out from top to bottom and nailed every 10 cm. Such a coating is also important when the question “How to put flexible tiles on the roof of an octagonal arbor or any other with a multi-pitched roof?” Is solved.

Fixing the eaves

Consider the fourth stage of laying shingles. This material is similar to the main one, but does not have a curly lower part. The cornice strip is the starting one and is designed to form an even lower edge along the entire perimeter of the overhang. The work of this stage should not be missed by those owners who decide the question “How to lay flexible tiles on the gazebo?”.

There is a protective film on the wrong side of the strip. It must be removed and this element placed, stepping back from the bend of the cornice strip 1-2 cm. After laying, the strip must be pressed. Then it is nailed in places of perforation and along the edges.

Installation of tiles

This is the fifth stage of the roofing work. Pre-prepared packages with tiles should be under a canopy or indoors. During installation, they are transferred to the building under construction. It should be borne in mind that the material in different packs, as a rule, is slightly different in color. In this regard, it is recommended to open 4-6 packages at the same time. You need to take sheets from them alternately. In this case, the roof will turn out to be more voluminous, and stripes of different shades will not be particularly visible. This condition must also be met in the case when the question “How to put flexible tiles on a hip roof?” Is being solved.

Laying the material starts from the center, gradually moving to the ends. The lower edge of the first row of tiles is placed on the same level with the cornice strip. The upper edge of the flexible tile should cover such a strip for several centimeters.

Skate

This is the final stage of installation of flexible tiles. The ridge is closed after all the slopes are completely covered with roofing material.

At this stage, either a special tile is used, or an ordinary tile is cut into separate fragments. The second option is cheaper, because the price of a special ridge tile is twice as high as the usual one.