Do-it-yourself vimes the dimensions of the circuit. Haste Shield Clamp

Hello everyone. A lot of interesting things on the Internet. While doing something, as they say now, surfing the web, I found an interesting mechanism - vayma. The owners praised him very much and complained about making or buying.
It so happened that our site is more female. But I somehow grew on it, maybe because of this very property :). But what I want to tell women is unlikely to be interested. And men (here, pause) well, I think maybe someone will come in handy.
So to the point. The glue is needed for gluing wooden boards... Having looked different variants I liked two. I decided to put them together. If anyone is interested, I will give links to primary sources. I'm not going to assign copyright, but I decided to cover this topic on our site.
How much is needed for one shield? I have a single gluing experience - the entrance country door. It had to be clamped in three places with wedges. The wedge provides compression only from the sides. Vayma is still above and below. Maybe somewhere there is information, what should be the step between the winders. I just decided that I needed to clamp from the edges and in the middle first.
The objectives of this event were as follows:
1. How realistic is it to make vayma yourself.
2. Test in the case, is it really so good.
For this type of vim you need:
a) a rectangular pipe 25 * 50 mm, wall thickness 2 mm.
b) a pipe for a counter tension-free stop 25 * 25 mm
d) metal sheet 2 mm thick
e) 5 bolts d8 mm, 2 bolts d10 mm
f) reinforced nut (or three welded together) d16 mm
g) hairpin d16 mm (I think 14 will do the same).
h) the tube fits freely on the hairpin
How much can you say in numbers? Everything is conditional here. It all depends on the tasks, that is, why you want to glue the boards, large or small. I took the maximum under my trunk - so that at least in disassembled form this miracle intermeddle. But if you are not going to glue the doors, then the screws can be made smaller. In general, I cut pipes of 1300 mm. With this spacing, for three pieces you need to buy 2 pipes 6 meters each. At current prices, this is somewhere between 1.5-2 thousand, taking into account cutting. The one-meter hairpin was enough for me. Nut bolts in Leroy costs probably about 1000 rubles. As for the rest of the materials, I took them from waste at work. If you wish, you can think of it and replace it with what you have at home or in the garage. Here the skill of the welder and a flight of imagination probably play a role.
The fact that I was using waste at work and using work machines made it much easier for me. Do not be intimidated by the machines are not a sentence . People do everything with a grinder and welding and get a working tool... I have a negative point, I do not know how to cook yet. I had to ask at work to make welded joints.
I bought the materials, but postponed the case for a long time, it was not clear how it worked. And there are no drawings as such. In general, with a wave of his hand, he decided to do it by eye according to the primary sources.
The decisive moment with the pipes, holes in them must be made on drilling machine(so they write everywhere) since the holes should not be skewed and in the paired pipes the axes of the holes should coincide along the entire length. I think anyone who does not have a machine at work or at home can buy it for a drill. In addition, the holes should be placed not in the center of the pipe, but closer to the edge - this is a reference to the strength material, we increase the working section of the beam.
Next, what's next? The rest is relatively simple.
I had it like that. I started with pipes. I stepped back from the edge of 15 mm and drew a line through 150 mm markings along the pipe. I marked the pipes in pairs to match the holes.


Here in the picture it is a little different from what I ended up with, I flew *. Below I want to do a debriefing. In the meantime, the markup should be something like this.

I have a tube 60 mm long and a plate 60 * 25 * 2 mm.

It was decided to make the handle for twisting with long handles. The handle itself was supposed to be made of plywood. And the grip with plywood through a cross cut or sawn out of metal 2 mm welded to the end of the hairpin.

Yes, I just cut my one-meter hairpin into three equal pieces, beforehand.

The most incomprehensible for me was the mechanism at the opposite end of the hairpin from the cross with a ball from the bearing.


The front tip differs from the rear one in that it is rotatable. When the stud rotates, it must remain stationary and not run away from the stud. The first noticeable difference instead of a square tube is round. We will weld a nail into the slot to hold the tip on the hairpin.


I have such a ball

Make a groove on the stud for the locking nail. The authors of my primary sources, which I was guided by, made the grooves with a grinder. They grinded me on the machine.

The figure shows the main mechanism of the entire system. Two d10 bolts are welded to the power nut, a stud is screwed into it. On the left edge is the profile of the cross. On the right is a swivel tip. It works like this. The nail holds the tip, the tube allows it not to lute and rotate on the hairpin, the ball takes on the load from the clamped shield and the hairpin and prevents it from wedging.
Next, you need to saw or chop 8 pieces of plates. for one wage. Dimensions 25 * 120 * 2 mm. I did not calculate the minimum working dimensions of the plates, perhaps the plates can be made shorter. Make two holes in the plates.
Before fixing the swivel tip on the hairpin, by welding to a round tube in a nail slot, you need to put on part of the future handle.


The hole in the handle is made with a weld groove.


We will have a handle of two halves. I'm still looking for how to adapt and where my dremmel is, so they chose a groove for the cross.


I lubricate epoxy resin the top of the handle. I connect the handles and, instead of a press, screw the handles onto the self-tapping screws, which I also recessed and fill in with epoxy.


Here is the finished mechanism. It remains to paint. With the painting of the pipes, I again "faked" - I painted it with powder at work. My opinion is to paint iron. I did everything slowly, I sawed the pipes to size, for 2 weeks they lay, and began to rust. I did not choose the color in Che painted thanks for that. Only the mechanism was painted from a spray can myself. After all, there is plywood, it cannot be heated. The color took, as I think, more or less suitable for the main gray.

Conclusions:
Generally satisfied. The results will be clear after the tests.
Errors identified, do not repeat:
1. The handle is very thick. Glued two pieces of 10 mm thick and got 2 cm thick, a bit thick.
2. Holes could be drilled much less, the handle will not allow the mechanism to be displaced along the holes, therefore, returning to the footnote - * it was more correct to do this:


The distance between the holes is 200 mm, or even more. And place the first opposite hole at a distance of the minimum width of the board that you want to glue.
3. What is inconvenient:


As you can see from the photo, the nut with welded-on bolts is wider than the supporting pipe, which makes it necessary to put washers or wider nuts to align the planes. My nuts gave a thickness more than required - again a little skew. It is not comfortable.
There is no limit to perfection and I think a lot can be improved. These are my first steps to where to start. In the process of creation, we already came across vaims in the internet to order in them, the counter mechanism was different. The advantage of the store is simplicity, the disadvantage is that no vertical force is created at the opposite end. After revising the store version (there was just a bar - a dead stop), I got the idea to use a hairpin instead of a bar, but difficulties arise. See the picture below. In general, if you are interested, write;)

The industry currently offers clamps or clamps various designs... But they are too large and expensive. Therefore, for a home carpentry workshop, you can make a clamp with your own hands.

With the help of homemade clamps, you can perform gluing of furniture board and other carpentry work.

Making a clamp with your own hands

The basis of the construction of a homemade clutch is a strong supporting beam. They make it from shaped pipe rectangular or square. Also, the beam can be made from metal profile: corner or brand.

The load-bearing beam must be of high strength and withstand bending loads. This is necessary so that during operation the clutch structure does not bend or deform.

To compress the furniture board, you need to make a lot of effort. Therefore, if the supporting beams do not have sufficient strength, they will be bent along with the workpiece.

If the furniture board, which will be made on the clamp, must have large dimensions, then, accordingly, the material for the base must be selected the most durable. In the construction of the clamp, all stops and screws are located above the supporting beam. Therefore, the higher the stops and screws are, the stronger the bending loads acting on the entire structure will be. For this, the clamp must have a very solid base.

When the clamp is working, a lot of pressure will be exerted on all stops. Therefore, the stops must be designed for heavy loads. Otherwise, they may bend.

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Materials and tools

• shaped tube of rectangular section;
• screws;
• nuts;
• stops;
• wooden spacers;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• building level;
• squares.

The fastening of the stops to the beam must be strong and be able to move quickly in the longitudinal direction.

The furniture boards to be clamped in the device can be of different widths. In the process of work, it is not always possible to attach workpieces with screws different sizes... Therefore, it is necessary to create the ability to move the clamps.

All screws must be of the required strength. Nuts must be of reinforced construction. They can be purchased at hardware stores. You can order the production of these parts in a lathe. It is also necessary to order a turner to manufacture stops for screws of the required dimensions.

If you buy ready-made screws, you will have to make a groove to install and secure the clamps.

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Stages of work

They start making a clamp with their own hands. It is necessary to prepare a rectangular profile pipe with dimensions of 60x30x3 mm. The pipe length should be 120 cm.

Such dimensions for the supporting beam were chosen due to the fact that it is often necessary to glue sheets large sizes or make wooden doors... Therefore, the clamp must be of such dimensions that it is possible to fix workpieces of such large dimensions in it.

Too large workpieces are rarely performed. In most cases, small size furniture boards and intermediate staircases will be produced. It is necessary to provide in advance measures so that during the manufacture of the shield, the glue does not fall on the surface of the device.

In cases where the length of the clutch does not allow for a large workpiece, you need to glue such a shield in parts. First, workpieces of such a width are glued together, which can be clamped in a clamp. Then, a wide blank is assembled from narrow shields. For this, movable clamps are used.

Then you need to make screws and nuts. The screw is made from a hexagon 300 mm long with a section of 28 mm. It must have a metric thread of 2 cm. The nut is made in the form of a 32 mm hexagon, 60 mm long.

Gaskets 1 cm thick are placed under the nuts. Then welding is performed. After that, a clamp is made from a 5 cm metal rod.

It is undesirable to make a clamp having a smaller diameter. Otherwise, it will push through wooden spacers, which are placed between the workpiece and the clamp. If you do not use spacers, you can deform the workpiece.

You need to drill a 1 cm hole in the end of the screw on the clamp side. Two ball bearings are installed in this hole in order to reduce friction.

Then the nuts are welded. Make sure that the screw is parallel to the profile. Otherwise, the workpiece will be pushed through.

It is necessary to completely tighten the screw and nut. Then a clamp is put on the groove. After that, gaskets are placed under it.

Using a level, make sure that the parts are located strictly parallel. The parts are fixed and then welded.

Welding is performed with small seams in order to prevent deformation of the material when the metal is heated during welding.

Then, clamps are made from a corner with dimensions of 60x60 mm. The corner is welded to the profile. The profile is welded from two corners. They are adjusted so that there is a possibility of free movement and at the same time that there are no large gaps.

Fasten the clamps. For this, holes are drilled with a diameter of 12 mm. They put pins in them. Thanks to this, you can quickly change the position of furniture parts during manufacture.

If in the process of work under compression it turns the workpiece inside out, then the reason for this may be the non-perpendicular position of the stop in relation to the supporting beam. Therefore, you need to check correct location parts using squares and a building level.

Then a hole is drilled, a thread is made and a screw is screwed on. Correct position workpieces can be adjusted with a screw.

When drilling holes, take into account that the screw with a movable stop moves 200 mm. When fixing the fixed stop, the distance between the holes must be 150 mm. Otherwise, areas may appear in which the workpiece will not fit.

First, a through hole is made on the clamp. After that, put it in its place, press it with a clamp. Then the profile of the bearing beam is drilled through this hole. This allows precise joining of parts.

You can make a clamp in which you can press the shield to the bearing profile. This design is more reliable, but more difficult to manufacture.

This is where the work on making a homemade clamp ends.

The design of the clamp allows you to perform high-quality work on gluing furniture boards different sizes and thickness.

A home craftsman sometimes needs to unite the bars or boards into a shield on his own. Of course, you can buy the necessary loan for a given job (and this option will be more than correct), but this requires certain finances, and considerable, and besides, an hour to search. In this connection, in a number of variants it is more expedient to design a vayma, at least for reasons of efficiency. The most important thing is that she fulfills the task assigned to her.

I needed to make a durable door leaf custom sizes for . Sliced ​​boards served as blanks for him, sanded and calibrated in thickness, but different widths... In addition to them, an additional block was also needed. Glue, sponge dowels N96, as well as lamellar milling machine other necessary tools were in the workshop, but, unfortunately, I have not yet acquired a vinaire. However, from the construction site remained bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, from which it was decided to assemble the device.

I selected the bars for the adaptation based on the dimensions of the blank shield (900x2000 mm). Collected the device on the floor. Having laid the first row of parallel to each other five transverse bars approximately 1.2 m long with a step of 45 cm, connected them on one side with a longitudinal bar slightly longer than 2 m, using self-tapping screws Ø6x90 mm. The second longitudinal bar is adjustable. It is attached every time in place: close to the first bar, a set of rallying boards is laid, then expanding wedges (I have prepared five pairs) and the second longitudinal bar.

Expanding wedges driven towards each other create quite large forces, therefore, to the first longitudinal bar from above, I attached another row of three transverse bars, which, moreover, keep the shield from bending when pulled together. These bars, like the second longitudinal, are unscrewed during the changeover of the device, but only on one side, and retracted to the side by rotation on the remaining screws.

The device turned out to be quite convenient, and shields up to 100 cm wide can be rallied in it. When the clamp is not in use, it easily folds and takes up very little space during storage.

Before joining the next elements of the shield in their abutting edges, I chose the grooves for the sponge dowels. Vaimu prepared for the operation: he put up a longitudinal persistent block and in the place of a new joint on top of the transverse bars he covered the film so as not to stain the floor with glue.

By gluing the keys into the grooves of one of the elements ...

... I missed the grooves of another element and the abutting edges with glue. Then I docked the elements, laying them on the bottom row of the transverse bars of the grip. This should be done quickly, until the glue thickens.

Natural wood and how construction material, and as a material for the manufacture of furniture does not lose its relevance. Unfortunately, there are not many places on the planet where trees grow, from the trunks of which you can make solid door leaves, tabletops or even wide window boards. Such an uncomplicated device as a clutch allows you to make glued - blanks for home and garden furniture with your own hands.

Manufacturing technology of glued wood panels

Even if the material (the thickness of the log) allows the manufacture of wide products, their further use raises a number of questions. Things made of solid wood are very capricious in operation. Those who have worked enough with wood are well aware of what a "propeller board" is.

In order for a wooden product from an array not to deform, the material must be thoroughly dried beforehand and, preferably, kept for at least a month in the room where it is to be. This condition is practically impracticable when we are dealing with door leaf or a window sill - humidity, temperature changes will inevitably lead to deformation of the product.

Elements from a glued array are devoid of these drawbacks. Bars are taken from one or different, they are recruited into a single block and glued. In order to wooden blanks become one, applied special device- vayma. With your own hands, you can easily assemble a fully functional device.

Simple clamp, assembled "on the knee"

Sometimes there are situations that some kind of work needs to be done once. Suppose it is decided to arrange a table from a glued spruce massif in a gazebo in the country. Does it make sense to buy expensive factory-made clamps? In such cases, a simple, in a sense disposable, do-it-yourself bond is made. The device drawings are shown below.

In order to glue an array of blanks once, you will need long self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a hacksaw and a joiner's hatchet.

The workpieces are placed on a row of transverse beams (beams every 40 ... 45 cm). On both sides of the workpiece, parallel to it, long longitudinal beams (equal in height to the workpiece) are laid and attached to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. From above, again, the upper transverse bars are attached with self-tapping screws. That's all the do-it-yourself vayma.

To compress the workpiece, it remains, as shown in the diagram, to wedge it with specially planed wooden wedges. After the product is ready, the clamp can be disassembled and the material can be used at your discretion.

Clamp from steel profile

But sometimes craftsmen collect wimes no worse than factory ones. Here's one of the options:

The clamping screw is first unscrewed to the stop. The slats are glued and placed on the clamp, starting from the clamping unit. After the blank of the massif is collected, it is covered with an upper profile pipe, and the reciprocal unit is bolted into one of the pairs of holes (depending on the width of the future massif).

By rotating the clamping bolt, the workpiece is compressed from the sides. The design of the clamp is made in such a way that the upper and lower pipes, when tightening the screw, are also strongly pressed against each other, which makes the future workpiece perfectly flat. Such a do-it-yourself wedge allows you to make any products - from cutting boards to the door leaves.

Wooden gadgets never lose their relevance, do not go out of fashion. They are highly environmentally friendly, natural, almost any piece of furniture is constructed from them. They serve long time and lend themselves well to restoration. You can make stools, doors, steps from wood with your own hands. For production, the craftsman needs numerous tools to work with the material. These are carpentry clamps. They are familiar to everyone, but its size is much larger.

What are joinery clamps for?

Production wooden products with your own hands is a difficult job that requires high precision performance of work, ability to work with the tool. Do-it-yourself carpentry clamps should not be called a press, since they are not equipped with a mechanism for drying the glue. They are a large and powerful clamp.

Joiner's clamps are used for such cases:

• gluing parts with an unusual shape;
• fixing the facing edges;
• assemblies of puff and shields, timber;
• design of frames, furniture frames, chairs;
• cladding of embossed, flat and volumetric surfaces;
• splicing wood;
• assembly of frame products (window, door);
• production of steps, stairs.

Hand-made production of the product

Making clamps with your own hands is not a difficult task. The structure of the clutch is based on a load-bearing beam with high strength. A profile pipe is used for this purpose. It has a square or rectangular cross-section. They also make a supporting beam with their own hands from a metal corner or piece. The latter option allows you to build a high-quality clamp structure, but it will turn out to be very heavy.

The main condition for using the material is its high strength and resistance to stress. Do-it-yourself clamps should not deform during use. When making clamps, you need to pay attention to the strength of the stops, which will experience a high load.

What materials will be required

To build homemade clamp, first you need to collect necessary materials and tools. For work you will need:

• profile pipe, metal corner or channel;
• fasteners: nuts, screws, screws;
• stops;
• building level and squares;
• metal welding machine;
• wooden spacers.

DIY carpentry clamps must be strong and strong, otherwise, with great effort, you can bend or break the structure. To prevent this from happening, the stops must be resistant to heavy loads and be well fixed on the beam. It is necessary to make sure that they can easily move in the longitudinal direction. To be able to handle large-sized workpieces with your own hands, you need to fix the clamps on the clamps so that they can be moved.

Fasteners should also have high strength. Better to give preference to a reinforced structure and nuts. As a consequence high load store materials break down quickly. To get high quality and efficient carpentry clamps, you should order fasteners and stops from a lathe.

Work instructions

All the work on the production of clamps with your own hands involves several stages:

• Preparing the profile pipe. Its length is 1.2 m.
• Assembly of bolted structures. It will be convenient to weld the clamp elements together. For assembly at corners, the length of which is 250 cm, a channel is attached at the same distance.
• The edge of the channel 1 and the short corner should be perpendicular to each other, and located between the long fragments. It is necessary to put gaskets under the nuts, the thickness of which is 1 cm.
• Welding of joints. The inner joint of the short corner and the channel is not processed. If this condition is not met, the seam obtained as a result of welding will create problems when gluing wood blanks.
• Making clamps from a metal bar. Its diameter is 5 cm. A 1 cm hole is drilled at the end of the screw. 2 ball bearings are installed inside it, which reduce friction.
• Welding the nut. In this case, the screw must be parallel to the profile. If this rule is not observed, the clamping of the part will occur with punching.
• Making clamps from a corner and securing them. For fixation, holes are drilled in the material, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. Pins are inserted here, allowing you to change the position of the workpiece during the manufacture of a wooden product.

Stops are welded to the bottom of the resulting structure, thanks to which it will be stable. During the manufacture of the clamps with your own hands, you need to ensure that all the parts are located in parallel. For this, a building level is used. The welds should be small. In the process of fastening parts, it is important to ensure that the metal does not deform during heating.

Features of making a simple clamp from self-tapping screws and timber

Sometimes a craftsman needs a large clamp to make one piece. This does not require a permanent structure. You can make disposable clamps with your own hands. To make the tool you will need:

• wooden beam;
• durable long self-tapping screws;
• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• carpenter's ax.

To correctly build a structure, you first need to make a drawing of it. The technology for making a simple bond is as follows:

• wooden elements are laid horizontally on a flat surface;
• place the workpiece. The distance between the elements is 40 cm;
• on both sides of it, a long bar is placed strictly parallel, fixed to the crossbars with self-tapping screws;
• to compress the workpiece, the clutch is wedged with special wedges;
• as soon as the product is glued together, the clamp should be disassembled. Its elements can be further used for different purposes.

DIY carpentry clamps are an excellent tool for making doors, steps, window frames... Even if a person is not engaged in the production of furniture, then he can significantly reduce the cost of repairing his home.