Winter rooting of cuttings of grapes. Methods for sprouting chibouks at home

At all times, grapes have been a favorite fruit of gardeners. Nowadays, the berry can be grown not only in cities with a warm climate, but even in the northern part with a much colder climate. As a rule, to expand the vineyard, gardeners use the most economical method - cuttings.

Most often, cuttings are rooted in winter, and in late spring or early summer, germinated seedlings are planted in open ground. This technique has many advantages over the others, but it must be borne in mind that the cultivation of grape cuttings in winter is characterized by some difficulties during storage and further germination of plants.

Planting material preparation

Seedlings are harvested either in autumn or spring. During the spring thaw, there comes a moment when you can open the vine after wintering, then the cuttings are cut for their further rooting. In this case, seedlings are planted in open ground in autumn, which gives some advantages: the ability for young plants to go through winter acclimatization and adapt. In the next season (after the plants survive the winter), such grapes begin to develop earlier, the bushes are strong.

Most often, growers harvest planting material during autumn pruning activities. This is done for several reasons. Firstly, during the season it was possible to observe the growth and fruiting of the bush from which the source material will be taken. Secondly, the processes of annual pruning of bushes and harvesting of planting material are combined.

For the preparation of planting material, the strongest, fruit-bearing and exceptionally healthy bushes are selected:

In order to prepare cuttings, you need to use a pruner. Its blades must be sharply sharpened. Such a tool should be made only from high quality material. Before cutting, the secateurs must be thoroughly disinfected. To save as much as possible nutrients, cutting should be done when the outside temperature is still positive.

For harvesting cuttings, you need to choose a stiff shoot. Cutting is carried out from the middle part. The length of the resulting cutting should be at least 40 cm, the cross section should have a diameter of about 5 mm. The harvested stalk should have about four buds (it is allowed large quantity), leaves and mustaches must be plucked or cut. The branch from which the cuttings are harvested must be of a uniform color, whole, the use of a significantly twisted vine is not allowed. Cuttings are performed after the removal of side shoots, leaves and tendrils.

After harvesting, the cuttings are immersed in water for 24 hours, after which they are disinfected (using copper sulfate or potassium permanganate). Further, measures are taken to dry the cuttings in order to prevent rotting during storage.

Storage conditions

It is necessary to store the cuttings in a place with a steady positive air temperature (for example, you can put the packed cuttings in a refrigerator, cellar, etc.). Sharp daily temperature fluctuations are not allowed. In this case, the climatic parameters of the storage room should be in the following ranges:

• air temperature - in the range from 2 to 6 C;
• relative air humidity - up to 65%.

Harvested cuttings are sorted in advance, packaged in 25 cuttings, wrapped in a damp newspaper, then in a plastic bag, labeled. In polyethylene, it is imperative to make several holes for air circulation. Storage of planting material is carried out with a monthly revision for rotting branches, mold, excessive drying. In order to prevent the spread of mold, at the slightest occurrence, the entire bundle is disinfected (for example, with potassium permanganate or copper sulfate), and packed for further storage. If the cuttings dry out, they are taken out, soaked for 24 hours, dried and placed back in the packaging material. In addition, early opened kidneys are monitored and prevented.

Experienced gardeners, to increase the likelihood that the cuttings will survive the winter, it is recommended to treat the ends with melted wax or plasticine. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture.

As an alternative method of storing cuttings, sprinkle with earth (a layer of at least 40 cm) is used. The basis of this method is the natural freezing of the soil layer in winter. When applying this technique, it should be taken into account that the grapes go into a dormant phase, and will come out of it only after the soil warms up. You can learn more about preparing cuttings for the winter from the training videos.

Extraction of chibouks and preparation for planting

Until the moment when grape cuttings are planted in winter, they must first be germinated. At the end of winter, growers begin the rooting process directly. To do this, first of all, they check how well the prepared batch has survived, and establish the degree of viability of the cutting by cutting the bark. The cut of a good branch is light green in color, buds are visible. If the cut has a brown or even darker color, then such a blank is thrown out: it will not germinate.

The sections are updated for the entire batch of planting material: at the upper edge, the entire part located 3 cm above the first eye is cut off, at the lower edge, the entire part up to the lower node. You can cut the planting material with a pruner or a knife, the main thing is that the blades are sharp enough, undergo a disinfection process, and high-quality materials are used for their manufacture.

After all the prepared planting material has been tested, all cuts have been made, the cuttings are immersed in water. To increase the percentage of germination of cuttings, you can add a root accelerator to the water. After the first day, the moisture content of the planting material is checked. To do this, an incision is made, if it looks wet, then the cutting can be removed from the water, if it is dry, then soaking is continued. If, after the planting material has lain in the water for more than three days, the incision is still dry, then such a cutting is considered bad, its further use is not possible. The cuttings that have passed all the checks are rooted by any method described below, after which they are planted in the soil on personal plot.

Methods for germinating cuttings

For rooting, there are numerous methods of germination. Let's consider each of them in detail.

kilchevanie

The method is based on organizing and maintaining a temperature difference in the areas where roots and buds appear. So, to speed up the rate of development of the root system, a high temperature (up to 25 C) and high relative humidity (about 90%) are created and maintained. When maintaining these parameters, the root system develops at an accelerated pace. To curb the growth of eyes, a temperature of up to 5 C is created in the upper part. This method can be applied when growing seedlings both outdoors and indoors. Subject to the above requirements, for up to three weeks, the seedlings will take root, while they will be strong and take root quite well when planted in the soil under open sky.

Shkolka

The method is based on the direct planting of cuttings on a personal plot. This is done after average temperature soil will be equal to 15 C. In order for the root system to come out sufficiently developed, the cuttings must be planted in the ground under a slope. The school is organized in a sunny place, the soil must be prepared in advance: fertilizers are applied and loosened upper layer.

Planting in boxes

The containers are pre-filled with soil, fertilizers are applied, the top layer is loosened. Similar to the shkolok method, the cutting should be planted at an angle to the ground. In about a month, a powerful root system will form and the kidneys will swell.

Rooting in water

In order to root seedlings using this method, you need to pour water into a container and put the cuttings there. The water level should be about four centimeters. Water must be purified (by boiling or filters). During the first hours, the water must be changed frequently and the planting material washed. This is done due to the release of mucus from the cut, which can cause the process of decay. As soon as the secretion of mucus is stopped, the water level must be raised to eight centimeters. Activated carbon is added to the water, a container is placed in the place where the seedlings are grown, and the condition of the cuttings is monitored. When rooting seedlings, it is necessary to carefully monitor the water level, to prevent it from lowering.

After a lapse of time (about 30 days), seedlings with a developed root system can be planted in containers with soil. Landing is carried out in pre-prepared boxes, in which special soil is poured and measures are taken to organize drainage. At home, purchased soil is used, since the seedlings do not yet have protective shells and are susceptible to various diseases. In addition, they monitor the level of soil acidity, the presence of micronutrients.

After the planting material has passed a difficult period of adaptation, the plants will acquire protective shells, and it is time to plant germinated seedlings in the soil in the open air. Landing is carried out with the organization of measures to prevent the occurrence of burns from direct sun rays. It is better to plant plants on a personal plot in the evening or in cloudy weather. After planting young bushes, the shelter is removed when the foliage becomes strong and tough enough.

Use of peat tablets

After the condition of the cuttings has been checked, take peat tablet, inserted into non-planting material, wrapped in a wet rag and wrapped in a film. The cuttings prepared in this way are placed in polyethylene, measures are taken to prevent drying out, placed in a dry, bright place (most often -on the wardrobe), leave for germination for 20 days.

In the case of sprouting plants at home, before planting them on the site, it is necessary to harden them. Seedlings are placed on the street in a shaded place for a week (direct sunlight is not allowed), after which another 14 days - in a brightly lit place. It is not recommended to plant plants immediately on the site, since inhibition of the growth of the bush will be observed, only after 60 days they will begin to develop at the proper pace.

Conclusion

Algorithm for growing seedlings obtained in winter time next:

• preparation seat(digging a hole, laying fertilizer, abundant watering);
• soil sedimentation (for 20 days);
• planting a plant, tying it up and watering it.
• When planting, it is necessary to monitor the safety of the root system.

As you can see, the cultivation of grapes is a process that requires compliance with many simple conditions. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of cuttings, seedlings, young plants. Timely fed and fertilized plants will delight for a long time appearance and a rich harvest.

To get a self-rooted seedling of the variety you like, you can carry out cuttings of grapes at home. To do this, you need to know how to properly prepare the cuttings, what time is best for this, and how to care for the resulting planting material in the future.

In the photo cuttings

As a rule, cuttings are harvested in the autumn months, during. The main thing is to be in time before frost, even if not all the foliage has flown from the bushes yet.

For cuttings, you need to choose the best grape bushes that have shown themselves well in terms of yield and quality of berries. The cuttings are cut from the middle part of the fruiting vine, the thickness of which is from 7 to 12 mm, and the length of the internodes is about 10 cm. The color of a healthy vine should be straw or brown, without any dark spots or other suspicious signs.

Video about the propagation of grapes by green cuttings

Instructions for harvesting cuttings:

• cut the cuttings so that each has three or four developed buds;
• remove all leaves and tendrils if they have not yet fallen off;
• distribute the cuttings by variety (when harvesting from different grape bushes), tying them in bunches, and place them in water for a couple of days;
• after soaking, it is advisable to disinfect the grape cuttings with iron sulphate;
• dry the planting material and fold it in the refrigerator or in the basement, wrapping it in polyethylene film. Suitable storage temperature is within 0+5 degrees.

Make sure that rot does not form on the cuttings in the basement due to high humidity. Rotten branches can be washed with water or discarded if they already look completely unsuitable for planting.

Photograph of grape cuttings

At the end of February, or already in March, you can start growing grapes from cuttings. Cut each productive shoot into small cuttings with two eyes, retreating from the kidneys by one and a half centimeters. In this case, the upper cut is beveled, and the lower one is made perpendicular.

Healthy twigs should have a light green color when cut, and a clear liquid should come out when pressed. Cuttings with darkened sections are not used for rooting.

On the sides of the base, it is recommended to make grooves with a sharp carnation or a needle. Next, disinfect the small cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate for 5 hours and place them entirely in water at room temperature for two days. It is also useful to hold the branches in a rooting stimulator after soaking.

Photo of grape cuttings soaking

To form the root system, prepared grape cuttings are placed in the usual glass jar filled with 3 cm of clean water. Place different grape varieties in different containers and place in a sunny place. After 12-14 days, you will notice how the upper bud swelled, and the growth of the young shoot began, and in a month the roots will grow. The main thing is not to forget to add fresh water as it evaporates.

Plant cuttings with regrown roots in the ground, using one and a half liter bottles with a cut neck, plastic cups, plastic bags and seedling pots as containers. For convenience, containers with seedlings can be installed in one box, so that it would be easier to transport the strengthened plants to the vineyard later.

Before planting grapes with cuttings, you need to prepare a suitable substrate by mixing garden soil, humus, rotted sawdust and sand (1.3: 1: 1: 0.5), or buy ready-made soil mixture in the store. Be sure to pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the container, add the soil mixture and, setting the cutting so that the upper eye is on the surface, fill the container to the top.

Video about how and when to root grape cuttings

As you can see, growing grapes with cuttings is not particularly difficult. It is only important not to neglect the rules for caring for seedlings:

• keep on a sunny windowsill, but at the same time shade the glass from the sun's rays to prevent burns on tender grape leaves;
• maintain moderate soil moisture;
• remove emerging weeds;
• periodically water the earth with a suitable pesticide;
• feed seedlings with complex fertilizers.

Photo of grape cuttings

By June, the cuttings will be completely ready for planting in open ground, but if the plants seem weak in appearance, move them to grow in the greenhouse. Well, about which method of landing is better to choose, you can read in the corresponding article on our website.

Growing grapes is a complex and multi-stage procedure. There are several ways to grow this berry in your backyard. One of them is with the help of cuttings, or chibouks. Consider how you can grow this crop at home with the help of small and properly prepared seedlings.

The word "chubuk" is of Turkic origin, and was borrowed into the Russian language during the reign of the Golden Horde in our open spaces. The literal translation of this word is "a thin twig or stick."

It is interesting that the word has several more meanings: a bighorn sheep with hollow horns, a hollow wooden rod on which a smoking pipe is planted, and a grape seedling or stalk.

In this article we will talk specifically about grape chibouks and the method of increasing the number of vine bushes on the site with their help.

Chubuk in gardeningis a segment of a vine with several buds on it.

This method of growing grapes is the easiest, most reliable and even beginners can do it.

Procurement of shank

If you properly prepare planting material, it will speed up the first harvest on a new vine.

Future seedlings are cut in autumn from a one-year-old vine, after the first frost, when the grapes are pruned. This is done from about the end of October to the beginning of December.

It is during this period that the vine contains the optimal amount of sugars, starch and other nutrients.

Also by this time the vine has already been hardened. temperature conditions from +5 to -5 degrees.

How to choose the right shank for sprouting

The most suitable vine for harvesting is fruit. It is desirable that it be a whip that brought large clusters, well developed and about the thickness of a pencil (6-8 mm).

Important! To avoid infection, cut blanks from the vine with a clean and sharp knife.

Cuttings are cut from 50 to 70 centimeters long with an oblique cut, about 2-3 centimeters above the knot. Material is harvested from a healthy plant.

To do this, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary study so that there are no traces of a dangerous fungal disease of grapes on the branches - as well as traces of hail damage and other defects.

In color, healthy branches should be golden straw or light brown. Feels firm to the touch and should crackle when bent.

Video: how to properly prepare and select chubuks

After harvesting the chibouks, it is important to remember that they are unacceptable to be left outdoors for a long time.. They can lose up to 2% of moisture per day. And if the losses amount to 35%, then the survival rate of each cutting will drop to half. To achieve the preservation of moisture, it is necessary even during the harvesting of the material to ensure that antennae or bunch legs remain at each end of the cut - these internodes have a protective membrane that prevents moisture loss.

The next step after cutting the chibouks is to soak them.. To do this, the blanks are placed in a bucket of water for several hours (from 6 to 8). They can be soaked as they are cut from the bush, after placing a bucket of water in the vineyard.
After soaking, the planting material should be slightly ventilated, then it is desirable to treat it with a biological product with high fungicidal and bactericidal activity.

Important! Cuttings left in the sun lose almost all their moisture in a few hours, so their survival rate is out of the question.

After all the above stages of harvesting chibouks, you need to decide what method you want to save them during hibernation. Here is some of them:

• in a refrigerator;
• in the ground;
• in the cellar of a private house.

Now let's look at each method separately.

It is acceptable to store grape cuttings in the refrigerator if you have few of them, and at the same time there is no basement or the ability to store them in the ground. For this:

1. Finished chibouks need to be wrapped with a natural clean cloth, after wetting it in water.
2. Then put in plastic bags, not tying them tightly together, but leaving a small hole for air exchange, and place on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
3. It is important not to forget to periodically check the moisture content of the fabric with which you wrapped the planting material, and, if necessary, moisten it with water. As soon as a characteristic musty smell appears, the fabric must be replaced with a new one.

Video: how to store planting material in the refrigerator

When harvesting a large number of cuttings, you can store them in the ground. To do this, you need to choose the right storage location.

At the same time, a low-lying place is not suitable, as well as a recess where moisture can collect from snow melted in spring. A suitable place on the site may be a hill. So, your actions with this storage method:

1. Dig a trench 80-100 cm deep.
2. Pour slightly damp sand into the bottom of the trench with a layer of 5 cm.
3. Lay the shank tightly at the bottom of the trench.
4. Pour wet sand on top with a layer of 10 cm.
5. Pour the earth on a layer of sand with a layer of 30 cm.
6. Cover the storage from above with slate or other suitable material.
7. Make a groove to drain the water.

Video on how to store grapes in the ground

If your courtyard has a cellar or basement, then it is better to store prepared chibouks in it.

Here is the storage process:

• be sure to treat the planting material with a 3% solution of iron or(200 ml water plus 1 teaspoon solution) for the prevention of mold and fungal infections. Then the vine must be allowed to dry;
• tie the processed cuttings into bundles and place them in polyethylene bags with wet coniferous sawdust by leaving the bags ajar for ventilation or by making a few holes in them. This method of preservation contributes to the accumulation of carbon dioxide, which serves as a preservative against harmful microflora and helps to reduce the consumption of carbohydrates for respiration of the vine. Be sure to check the moisture content of sawdust during storage of the vine and, if necessary, periodically moisten them.

Did you know? Jesus Christ in the Bible symbolically called himself the true vine.

The optimal indicators for winter hibernation of the vine is the temperature from 0 to +5 degrees. If you endure this operating temperature, then the cuttings will have enough carbohydrates for more than six months. But if the basement is warmer, then the nutrient reserves will last only 3-4 months.

Video: storage of grape stems in the basement

How to germinate chubuk

After hibernation, the cuttings need to be prepared for germination.

When to get branches for sprouting

In February, the chibouks must be removed from the storage place and carefully examined. High-quality segments of grape branches should be elastic and moist, and the cuts themselves should be bright green.

As already mentioned, after wintering, you need to carefully examine the branches and carry out the necessary processing. If they are too dry or mold has formed on them, then the necessary measures must be taken: the mold from the grape cuts is removed by wiping them with a cloth or brush with a soft bristle.

If the bark is wrinkled and crumbles, then you need to soak the vine in the stimulator for 2 days.

After soaking, you need to remove the shank from the solution and cut off the excess part from them on both sides: above the upper kidney - with an oblique cut at a distance of 3 cm above it, and in the lower - with an even cut just below the internode. The middle kidney is usually removed.

Video: how to germinate grapes from chubuk

After the pruning procedure, place each segment in a separate container or jar of water for further germination. The water in the vessels should be at a constant level - under the lowest kidney and in no case close it (up to 3 cm).

To do this, you need to monitor this regularly and add water as needed to the desired level.

To wake up root system from hibernation, you need to add to the water. It would also be helpful to add activated carbon so that the water in the containers does not stagnate. Then the dishes with the material should be placed on the windowsill on the south side, where there is a lot of sunlight.

Did you know? On our planet, about 80 thousand square kilometers are occupied by orchards with vineyards.

You can additionally create greenhouse conditions for seedlings if you put a plastic bag on each of them: the humidity in such a bag will be higher than in the room.

To speed up the rooting of chibouks, containers with them can be placed on a warm base, for example, on a sheet of metal, which is placed on top of a radiator battery. At the same time, the temperature in containers with blanks should not exceed 25 degrees.

After 5-8 days (depending on the variety), the cuttings will begin to bud, and after another week, roots will appear. It is impossible to allow the roots to grow more than 1 centimeter, since when planting longer roots can break off.

Planting chubuk and caring for seedlings

Now it's time for the intermediate germination of the chibouks before planting them in open ground.

The most suitable time for temporary planting of chibouks is the beginning of April. Until the moment when it will be possible to plant them in open ground, enough time will pass. During this period, the planting material will take root well and harden off.

planted plant material in any suitable containers with an optimal volume of 0.5-1 liter. Suitable for this:

• peat pots;
• plastic bottles cut in half;
• plastic containers;
• beer plastic glasses;
• bags of kefir or milk.

Now about the composition land mixture for filling containers (all in 1 part):

• part of the humus;
• part of sod land;
• part of the universal soil mixture purchased at the store;
• part of the sand or .

Landing pattern

Cuttings are planted like this:

1. At 1/4 of the container, gently deepen the heel of the cutting, making sure not to break off the delicate roots. This planting depth is needed in order to keep the substrate in the container. more space for the development of the root system. Then sprinkle the chubuk with a substrate, and pour a layer of it on top. Sawdust will not allow moisture to evaporate excessively.
2. After planting the chibouks, they need to be well watered.
3. Place seedlings on pallets in a warm, draft-free room.

How to care for grapes

Further care for grape seedlings is as follows.

The success of grape cultivation largely depends on knowledge and compliance with growing technology, as well as on correct selection zoned varieties. Grapes can be effectively propagated by both seeds and vegetative methods. For the selection of new varieties, sowing by seeds is used. AT household plot grapes are bred only by vegetative methods: layering, grafting and cuttings. At the same time, the most convenient, cheap way of mass cultivation of grapes is growing from cuttings. Usually they use green summer or stiff winter ones.

Propagation of grapes is propagated in two popular ways: by seeds, vegetatively.

Procurement of cuttings

Harvesting grape cuttings should be carried out in the fall (September - October) from healthy bushes. The thickness of the vine for cuttings should be 7-10 mm. Sections 60-55 cm long are cut, containing from 4 to 5 buds, cleaned of leaves and tendrils. The lower cut of the handle is made under the knot, and the upper cut is 2 cm above the eye. Prepared cuttings are soaked in water for a day, then disinfected with a solution of copper sulphate. Sections should be dipped in melted paraffin or wax to prevent moisture loss.

The grape cuttings treated in this way are placed in labeled plastic bags and stored in a cool place with a temperature of 0 to +5 degrees. Some keep the cuttings right on the site in a hole about 80 cm deep, covered with sand and earth from above.

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Preparing cuttings for rooting

Grape cuttings must be planted for acceleration in late January-early March.

The optimal time for planting cuttings for rooting: the end of January - the beginning of March. We take the cuttings from the storage place, evaluate their safety and quality. The cut of the vine should be green, without black spots and mold. On selected cuttings, sections are updated with a sharp knife from below 5 mm from the lower kidney, from above obliquely from the kidney and 1-2 cm above. In the lower part of the cuttings, 3-4 grooves 3 cm long are made with a knife or a needle, cutting through the bark to the bast. Furrowing promotes the growth of additional roots.

After soaking, it is desirable to treat them with a root system growth stimulator. For this, a solution of heteroauxin, sodium humate, fumar, humisol, as well as honey (1 tbsp is needed for 10 liters of water) or aloe juice (2 parts of water for 1 part of juice). The cuttings are placed with the lower part in this solution for a day.

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At this time, it is necessary to prepare a kilchevator - a device that provides pre-planting preparation of cuttings. How it works: creating elevated temperature in the lower part of the cutting in the area of ​​​​root formation, and lower at the top. The goal is to speed up root formation and slow down leaf growth. There are many designs of this device with electrical heating or the use of natural thermal agents (manure, compost).

Growing grapes requires a lot of attention and technology.

The simplest kilchevator at home is obtained from plastic containers eg bottles. Cut off the top of the bottle, make drainage holes at the bottom. We fill the resulting containers by 3-4 cm with disinfected pine sawdust, place the cuttings in them vertically and fill them with sawdust and the upper eye. 5-7 cuttings can be placed in one bottle. For effective kilching, you need to place the bottles so that the temperature below is 22 - 25 degrees, and there is cool air on top, for example, on a radiator by the window.

The cuttings rooted in the kilchevator with the leaves that have appeared are planted in prepared pots with a mixture of fertile soil and sand, or immediately in a school. The term for planting seedlings in the ground, in a school or in a permanent place is June - early July.

Another effective method grow planting material - rooting seedlings in paper cups. It provides a high survival rate of cuttings. Paper cups (without a bottom) are used, 15–20 cm high, 6–7 cm in diameter. They are filled with soil mixture containing humus and sand. Cooked cuttings are placed in cups up to the top eye. Cups with cuttings in a pallet are placed on the windowsill of a sunny window. Watered with warm (25-30 °) water every other day. After 2 - 3 weeks, leaves begin to appear, after 4 - 6 weeks, roots begin to appear. To obtain full-fledged seedlings of European-Asian varieties in this way, 45-50 days are enough. For planting in place or in a school, seedlings are ready by May 5-10, in areas of the middle lane, planting is carried out after May 25.

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Planting cuttings in school

Shkolka is a section of a nursery in which grapes are grown from cuttings, with subsequent transplantation to a permanent place. The cuttings in the shkolka are arranged in rows every 10 - 15 cm. The distance between the rows is at least 30 cm. More often this method is used in industrial viticulture when it is necessary to grow a large number of seedlings.

The area for the school should be well lit by the sun and ventilated from all sides. For better rooting and development of seedlings, the earth should be light. The soil is dug up in April to a depth of about 40 cm, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.

If kilchenation was not performed, it is necessary to stratify the cuttings before planting in a shkolka. They are wrapped damp cloth and leave in a warm, well-lit room (20 - 25ºС). After two weeks, the bulk of the kidneys should bloom. After that, the best ones are chosen and landed in a school.

Kilchevanie allows the cuttings to ripen faster for further planting in the ground.

Planting begins after the soil warms up above 10 ° C. Cuttings suitable for planting are immersed with the lower end in a clay solution with the addition of heteroauxin (0.01 - 0.02%) to stimulate the development of the root system. With sufficient moisture, the shkolka is recommended to carry out a shallow planting for better heating of the roots in the spring.

In most viticultural areas, the cuttings are buried no more than 30 - 35 cm. In the prepared soil, furrows are made 40 cm deep and a shovel wide. The cuttings are laid along one of the walls of the furrow at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other. The groove is half-filled with soil, compacted tightly, watered abundantly, and after the water has been absorbed into the soil, the groove is finally filled up, leaving 1-2 buds on the surface. From above, an earthen roller is formed above the upper kidney by 10-12 cm. Next row do at a distance of less than 30 cm from the previous one. After planting the cuttings, the ground is loosened again, and after 1 - 2 days it is recommended to carry out additional watering.

Planting cuttings in shkolku must be completed before May 10 - 15. With a later landing, there will be less time for the shoots to ripen, and they may freeze slightly in the fall.

You can grow grapes at home using the vegetative method, which involves the use of chibouks - cuttings specially prepared for planting. In this article, we will describe in detail the process of such cultivation and subsequent transplantation into the ground.

Harvesting cuttings for the winter - how to cut and where is it better to store?

It is necessary to harvest material for planting from well-sprouted, healthy and mature shoots, which are cut no later than mid-autumn. It is better to cut the cuttings from a fertile bush, the shoots on which should be of a uniform color, without traces of diseases or the presence of pests, with a characteristic crackling in the bend. The length of one shank is from 12 to 40 cm, the thickness is not less than 6 and not more than 12 mm. The cuts should be even (make them under the kidney technique) and at an angle of 45 degrees.

So that the prepared material retains all its properties, soak the resulting shank in cold water during few hours. After moistened cuttings, dip into a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulphate, in which they must lie for at least half an hour - this ensures high-quality disinfection and strengthens the structure of the cut shoot.

After the "water" procedures, let the cuttings dry properly, then tie them in bunches and send them to winter storage. Gently fold the grape stems into perforated plastic bags, store the blanks in a horizontal position, in a room well protected from moisture with a temperature not exceeding 6 degrees, ideal option there will be a dry cellar or let down. Packets can be sprinkled on top sawdust. You can store the cuttings in the refrigerator, but in this case they will lose some of their properties.

During storage, periodically check the condition of the material, and if there is a possibility of rot, or the shank becomes too dry, it is better to repeat the soaking procedure and separate the damaged cuttings from the rest. Experienced gardeners do not recommend storing cuttings next to the fruits of apples or pears, such a "neighborhood" is detrimental to the formation of healthy grape buds.

What to do to sprouts take root?

From the second half of February, the time comes for the germination of roots. The blanks must be removed from the storage place and prepared for further rooting. First of all, check the suitability of the cuttings for planting at home. To do this, lightly press the tree with a pruner, the chubuk should emit very little moisture. If there is a lot of moisture, then it is rotten, if it is not at all, then the cutting is dry. In both cases, they are not suitable for germination.

Also examine the place of the cut: if it has a uniform, slightly greenish color, then we have a healthy plant, if there are black specks or color heterogeneity, we are dealing with an affected shoot.

If everything is in order with the blanks, follow the further instructions:

• place healthy cuttings in warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate for several hours (the optimum water temperature is 30-40 degrees);
• thoroughly rinse the blanks under running water and give them time to dry completely and adapt to new conditions (let them lie down for 1-2 days on a clean cloth);
• the lower and upper cut under the kidneys must be updated by 2 and 1.5 centimeters, respectively;
• prepare a stimulating solution, for this, use settled water, to which you can add products such as Kornevin or Charkor.
• Lubricate the edges of the cuttings with garden pitch, and the main part should lie in a stimulating solution for several days.

If all of the above procedures are followed, the cuttings are completely ready for rooting. Pour some water into a glass container (up to 2 cm layer). Dissolve several activated charcoal tablets in water. Put 3 to 4 cuttings in each jar and place the containers on the windowsill or on special shelves with enough light.

As a rule, the shank will root in a jar in 2-3 weeks, provided that the room temperature does not fall below 24 degrees. At lower temperatures, the germination period will also increase, which does not always have a positive effect on the further development of the young shoot. Soaking the roots in water is necessary to improve the vegetative properties, since if the cutting is immediately lowered into the ground or substrate, leaves form over time, but roots do not form, which leads to constant moisture loss and has a detrimental effect on the plant.

We transplant cuttings into the soil - let's talk about kilching

To speed up the process of root formation, a method called kilchevanie is used. The essence of the method is that the lower part of the shank is placed in constant heat, while top part is at a lower temperature. This contributes to the rapid formation of roots and eliminates the possibility of early bud formation on the scion.

For kilching, you can use a home-made box with an additional electric heater or use folk methods, namely, to plant cuttings in containers with soil and substrate, creating conditions as close as possible to greenhouses. The second method is simpler and more economical, so we will describe it further.

As soon as roots have formed on the shoot, place it in the ground, fertilized with a substrate and sawdust. Planting depth - no more than 6-7 centimeters, while the container should be filled evenly and in several layers. The first layer will be drainage, then carefully place the stalk with sprouted roots in the middle. Cover with a small layer of earth. As soon as the chubuk takes the desired position, add the substrate and carefully tamp the earth. You can put a plastic film on top, but not too tight so that the plant has constant access to oxygen.

Place containers with seedlings in a dry and protected from direct sunlight place for 2-3 weeks. Periodically monitor the condition of the seedlings and water abundantly with settled water at room temperature. If the soil is too compacted, gently loosen it with improvised means so as not to damage the seedling. After a week, you can feed the plant. For this, potassium and wood ash are perfect in a proportion of 25-30 gr. for one run.

We do not recommend using fertilizers based on ammonium or nitrogen, as they contribute to the rapid growth of grapes, which under these conditions will not benefit the seedlings. At proper care, no direct sunlight and optimal temperature indoors, roots will grow in 2-3 weeks, which means that grapes can be planted on garden plot into open ground.

How to transfer seedlings to open ground - preparation and tillage

With the onset of warm weather in mid-April or early May, sprouted chibouks can be planted in open ground. First, choose a site suitable for growing grapes. It should be without blackouts with good ventilation, that is, completely open on all sides. The place for seedlings must be dug up to a depth of at least 45 centimeters, then apply the optimal amount of fertilizer. For 1 sq. a meter of area needs 15-20 kilograms of clean sand, the same amount of compost and about 100-150 gr. ammonium or nitrogen fertilizers.

Next, the soil is re-digged so that all the components are thoroughly mixed. Plant cuttings shallow (you can make special tubercles for planting, this will loosen the soil) from north to south at a distance of 1.5-1.7 meters from each other, leave at least 1.5 meters between rows. Before planting, it is better to expose containers with seedlings to the open air so that they harden in their natural environment for several days.

2-3 seedlings can be placed in one planting hole, while making sure that they are of the same variety. With a high length of the roots, they can be shortened a little, by 0.5-1 cm. After planting, lightly tamp the soil and water it very abundantly, at least 3-4 buckets of water per bush immediately after planting. In the future, watering is carried out 2-3 times a week or more often, depending on the condition of the soil. Make sure the soil is always moist, but don't overdo it. After planting in open ground, the ground from above can be covered with some kind of mulching material.

In conclusion, we will give some tips and answer frequently asked questions about growing grapes from chibouks. The best varieties for growing in middle lane Russia is considered such species as Isabella, Madeleine, Arcadia, Angevin and other varieties with fairly hardy shoots. To prevent grape diseases and stimulate the root system, you can plant crops such as radish, onion, cabbage or peas nearby, while we do not recommend planting other fruit crops in the immediate vicinity, in particular strawberries or raspberries.

In the process of developing shoots, they must be tied to strong wooden or iron pegs so that the young shoot is not damaged due to constant gusts of wind. It is best to water the grapes planted by cuttings at the very beginning of its growth with warm water, to which you can first add aloe infusion or natural honey. This solution is especially effective if seedlings are grown at home and then transferred to open ground.