Options for storing a car trailer in the garage.

A light trailer, like a car, is destroyed under the influence of an aggressive environment. Therefore, the question is where to store the trailer for passenger car- far from idle. Consider keeping it in the owner's garage.

If you leave the trailer under open sky on the long term, then even the highest quality models will sooner or later lose their appearance, break down under the influence of corrosion, cracking is possible paintwork and others backfire.

If the owner is not going to use the trailer for quite some time, then best solution will store it in the garage. You should especially think about its convenient placement in conditions when the owner puts his car in the garage at the same time.

External influences on the trailer and storage options

Consider not the question of how to save the trailer, but the place. The season is not important for the location of the trailer, although the destructive effects of the environment in winter time somewhat more significant.

The type of trailer is not important for the place: it is usual for household needs, for a boat or in the form of a platform. Each of them contains metal constructions, electric wires, light and other elements. There are main external dangers that affect all types of trailers equally, namely:

• Time factor;
• Temperature fluctuations, as well as its low and high rates;
• Humidity;
• Impact sun rays;
• Possibility of mechanical damage;
• Metal corrosion and more.

If you correctly store the trailer, then many of these factors can be eliminated or their influence reduced. The only thing that cannot be suspended is the time factor. Even if you keep your trailer in ideal conditions, over time, its structure will steadily collapse. Otherwise, a properly selected and equipped storage place can reduce the destructive effects from all kinds of negative impacts.

There are 2 ways to save a vehicle:

1. Open air. This method is not the most reliable for both the car and the trailer. For this method, the best would be the construction of a roof, canopy or awning. The trailer itself should be covered with waterproof material from moisture.
2. The best place for storing a trailer - a garage, although it will also have to create some conditions. Depending on its size, it is possible various ways caravan placement.

Putting the trailer in the garage will save you a lot of problems. But the question arises about accommodation options. Each mounting method has its own characteristics, and the owner must think through the options in advance.

Garage storage methods

The owner of the trailer, who intends to store it in the garage, must remember that all methods of hanging this tool are relevant only for single-axle species. Heavier devices with a mass of more than 300 kg must not be hung or placed in hazardous areas.

There are several ways to store single-axle trailers:

• On the ceiling;
• On the wall;
• Near the wall vertically.

If the size of the garage allows, then the trailer is put on wheels. The tool is closed with waterproof material and other possible conditions. This is the easiest and safest option. For tighter garage spaces, other placement options should be considered.

Vertical placement

In this version, the trailer is put on its hind legs and fixed with a lock to the ceiling. With a sufficient height of the room, the tool is located completely vertically, and a ramp is placed under it. This will eliminate the interaction of metal with the floor surface and reduce metal corrosion.

With this method of storage, there are some features that should be noted. Special attention:

1. The nose of the trailer will need to be lifted manually after each use of the product;
2. On the ceiling, it is necessary to prepare a mount for fixing in advance;
3. Vertical installation requires certain skills from the owner;
4. It is possible that the lock will break under load;
5. There is a danger that the trailer will fall and damage the vehicle.

In general, this method of storage has its advantages in that the trailer takes up little space and does not make it difficult to park the car.

Climbing up to the ceiling

In this variant, the trailer is rolled up on the deck onto the swivel frame and placed under the ceiling. That is, a suspension is pre-designed, which has attachments to ceiling beam and against the wall.

What to consider:

• If the suspension is designed correctly and thought out, then placing a trailer on it and lifting it to the ceiling is not too difficult;
• The frame structure for storage is quite difficult to manufacture;
• The trailer must be kept clean, otherwise all the dirt will be on the car;
• Care should be taken to ensure the safety of the suspension system in order to prevent its collapse.

This option is not safe and is acceptable only if the garage beams are strong, and the design of the frame and fasteners is reliable.

To Wall

It is most rational to store the trailer on the side wall of the garage. There are many types of designs for these purposes. Their type and method of fastening depends on the financial capabilities, the availability of material and tools from the owner.

Choose a wall for storing a trailer should be on its strength and ease of location.

All possible ways trailer savings are designed for long time, for example, on winter period, and are not intended for everyday use.

A light trailer is a great thing that sometimes allows you to save a lot! I don’t have my own trailer, so if necessary I take a trailer from my father. For example, he carried crushed stone and sand in it for a country horizontal bar (). Someone might think that it’s some kind of nonsense to carry sand and gravel yourself, when you can order the delivery of a whole dump truck. But firstly, I didn’t have to pay money for delivery, and secondly, I brought as much material as needed for specific needs and it didn’t stay on my lawn for decades, as it usually happens. And in it you can take out the trash from the dacha, bring potatoes purchased for the winter, deliver material for the next project. In general, three or four times a year, a light trailer is simply irreplaceable.
However, there is a small inconvenience - how to store it (trailer) in between use. Unfortunately, the area of ​​​​a standard garage box does not allow you to comfortably accommodate racks, a trailer and a car. Father found a solution a long time ago - to put the trailer on its side.

To put a light trailer on its side, two adult men are enough. You can do it alone, but it will be too difficult and even dangerous. But going to the garage in twos or catching and asking neighbors is not convenient. Therefore, the idea came to call for help with a manual winch, which was immediately purchased. The load on the winch declared by the manufacturer is 500 kg. At the same time, the trailer itself weighs 250-300 kilograms. And you don’t need to lift the entire trailer, but only one side of it, so the margin of safety is good. But the store did not have any brackets or fasteners for it. I had to build everything from scratch. So even better - you can make a design exactly for your own needs.

It all started with studying the experience of other users of winches on the Internet. Further development of own project and selection of material. To save money, it was decided to make from the available leftovers from past crafts.
When sawing the next corner, I noticed the cast letters "BSC.TWG.JA.GB". What do these letters mean? A google search turned up nothing. If this is a marking of rolled metal, then why in English? It is unlikely that Russia or Soviet Union imported rolled metal with foreign markings from abroad with their "millions of tons of steel per capita". Rather, on the contrary, I came across a piece of a corner intended for export.

Probably, it was possible not to suffer with the manufacture of brackets for the blocks, but only to make a bracket for the winch. But I didn't want to concentrate a significant load on them at one point. It would be more correct to distribute it on a certain area based on different rows of bricks. Moreover, the procedure for lowering the trailer implies some jerk at the beginning of the process. Therefore, the brackets for the blocks are rectangular frames with a side of 300 mm, welded from a 50x50x5 corner with 8 mounting holes each.

Metal plates 200x200mm 4 mm thick are welded onto the frames. These are the remains of the tabletop of my workbench -.

I think the rigidity of such a bracket will be enough

The winch bracket is a little more complicated. It consists of two parts - a glass on which the winch is directly attached with bolts, and a bracket that sets the desired position of the glass in space (more on this below). At the same time, the outreach of the bracket is determined by the length of the handle so that it does not cling to the wall and there is enough space for the hand. In this particular case, it is more convenient to rotate the winch handle in a plane perpendicular to the wall. It's just a matter of convenience.

After graduation welding work walked through the resulting pieces of iron with an end petal circle - they began to look like new ones!

An M12 eyebolt is fixed on one of the brackets. In order for it not to spin, I fixed the thread with tacks.

Here, in fact, is the whole set. The third bracket is needed to fix the intermediate wheel on it, which is responsible for uniform winding of the cable on the winch drum.

Once again, I scraped off the dried film, once again diluted it with the same cheap degreaser, and once again the paint did not lose its face. And even the hammer effect appeared in places. The pieces were dry the next morning. Miracles!

Anchors M10x85 were used as fasteners.

Perhaps someone will find this performance too strong, but I don’t think so. Firstly, when lowering the trailer, the brackets will experience jerky loads, which are many times higher than static ones with the same weight. Secondly, after the structure has taken shape, I see no reason to deliberately weaken it. The savings in time or material will be negligible. Thirdly, a good margin of safety of the structure translates into its durability and the confidence of the owner.

The winch bracket is fixed in the same way. At the same time, there was not a word in the instructions about which direction the cable should unwind, although this is important. After analyzing the location of the mounting holes in the winch body and the distribution of forces under load in the winch itself, I came to the conclusion that it has the greatest rigidity when the cable is in the position shown in the following photo. The experience of other users of similar winches from the Internet showed that they work in other directions of application of force, but we still decided to rewind the cable for our own peace of mind. Because it seems to me that this position is the only true one, and it was not wound correctly from the box.

A metal chain with hooks at the ends clings directly to the trailer. It has a chain connector for attaching to the winch cable.

Other important element system is a corner fixed to the concrete floor with 10x85 anchors. It performs two functions at once: firstly, it is a mark of the initial position of the trailer, and secondly, thanks to it, the trailer is planned to tip over, and not slide along concrete floor, i.e. corner is one of the points of support. The position of this corner is also determined experimentally.

To put the trailer on its side, you need to do the following: set the initial position of the trailer, resting the right wheel on the corner-mark-stop and fasten the chain with hooks to the trailer frame. Everything is ready, you can lift.

The effort on the winch handle is only a few kilograms. In this case, the winch operator is in a safe area. Even if something goes wrong and the trailer falls, the operator will not be harmed in any way.

The winch has a locking mechanism, so the winch operator can stop lifting at any time in order to move away from it and fix something. However, tests have shown that the use of an angle-stop-mark and the correct experimental determination of the position of the center of gravity of the trailer give a good stable result without any intervention.

As you can see in the photo, the figure of the winch operator is quite relaxed and lifting car trailer does not require significant effort.

To lower the trailer, you need to loosen the cable a little and tilt the trailer a little so that it rests on the cable. At this moment, a small jerk occurs, which is easily maintained by three 4mm metal brackets, fixed with 22 M10x85 anchors.

The resulting system allows you to effectively use the space in the garage and store the trailer with the car, eliminates the need to seek help every time the trailer is raised or lowered, and protects the health of the owner. The goal is achieved, the customer is satisfied.

Using a trailer can significantly reduce the load on the engine and chassis of the car, so summer residents and people with an entrepreneurial streak are happy to buy them for a passenger car. At the same time, there is a problem with the place and method of storing the trailer in the garage, since it is contraindicated to leave such equipment on the street or in the yard. In addition, due to the significant mass of the carriage structure, the owners prefer to install the trailer in the garage with a winch and most often alone.

Ways to install and store a trailer

It is rare that the dimensions and height of the garage ceilings were originally planned by the owners, taking into account the storage of additional devices. Most often, they try to “fit” the trailer on free space in one of the following ways:

• Suspension from the ceiling on a swinging steel frame;
• Installing the carriage in a vertical position supported by wheels on a special ramp;
• Hang the trailer on its side in the garage.

Important! Using the listed methods, it is recommended to hang only light structures, with a dry weight of no more than 270-300 kg.

In each of the above methods, the option of attaching a standard single-axle trailer with a non-folding towing frame is considered. Today, there are many lightweight folding structures that can simply be installed vertically on the tailgate and hung on wheel stands. With a garage ceiling height of up to 2.8 m, respectively, you can install a carriage with a length of no more than 2.7 m.

Advantages and disadvantages of different trailer storage options

Each of these methods has certain disadvantages that limit their practical application.

Trailer storage under garage ceiling

The general principle of installing and storing a trailer in a garage according to the first method can be easily understood using the above figure. The structure is rolled up along special gutters onto a swivel frame and lifted up to the ceiling. After that, the outer handrail of the frame is fixed on a special lock installed on the beam ceiling. There are several features of this storage method:

1. This is the most fast option fix the carriage on a special frame, but this requires the manufacture of a rather complex and heavy frame, the use of which is clearly unsafe for life;
2. A trailer suspended for storage under the ceiling of the garage must be thoroughly washed, cleaned and dried, otherwise dirt and water will end up on the hood of the car and people standing nearby;
3. Overhead storage steel structure weighing 100-200 kg increase the risk of serious injury or damage to the vehicle.

Note! Even for industrial locks and hitches, the chance of a mechanism failing to close is about 1 in 300 operations.

This means that during the year, with the daily use of the vehicle, at least once the mechanism will not work, and the frame will collapse on the car underneath.

If your garage has an entrance to basement made in the form of a staircase under the rear wall of the room, while its width is not less than a meter, it is possible to use part of the space for storing single-axle trailers with a small base length, as in the diagram. This option interferes with the entrance to the basement, so it is used infrequently.

How best to position the skiff trailer in the garage

More reliable and convenient way trailer storage of the type "Skif-11" is the mounting of the vehicle on the side wall of the garage. To do this, you need to make three small devices:

1. Fasten the electric or manual winch to the maximum available height. With a body width of 1.5 m, the hanging height for storage will be only 1.8 m. For any, the lowest garage, the condition is quite feasible;
2. Weld two studs with a diameter of 12-15 mm to the trailer's supporting frame, the equipment installed on the wall will be supported by two steel racks, 35-40 cm high;
3. Make and install a device for pulling the trailer to the wall of the garage. For light trailed structures, this can be done by hand, for heavy carriages, weighing 200-300 kg, you have to use equipment.

Column support racks are made from any rolled steel, channel or corner. Height and mounting points depend on the specific dimensions of the trailer and where the support studs are to be welded. Instead of studs, you can use any bolts or fittings of the appropriate diameter.

If you intend to store trailers, for example, on the left wall, the studs must be welded to the frame on the left side so that they are in line, parallel to the vehicle's axis of symmetry. In addition to installing the winch on the wall, under the ceiling of the garage you will need a roller or a hook on the wall, at a height of 70-80 cm above the floor.

Storage carriage example

Installing the trailer for storage is carried out in two stages. First you need to roll it into the garage and set it so that the studs on the base of the gun carriage are exactly opposite the support posts.

Next, the winch cable is passed through a roller on the wall and hooked to the frame or trailer wheel. Turning on the winch drive, we pull the trailer by side sliding in the direction of the wall as close as possible to the steel support posts.

Many owners of passenger cars also have two-wheeled trailers for them. Such industrially produced trailers, for example, Tarpan, the Avangard plant in Sarov, the Mytishchensky plant and others, have an overall length (body plus drawbar) of about 2900 mm, and the wheels are from the Zhiguli car. With a standard (according to GOST) garage length of 5900 mm, the trailer and the most common car of the Zhiguli type (the overall length of all brands of these cars is about 4130 mm) do not fit in it. Therefore, to place the car and the trailer in the garage, they remove the wheels from the trailer and put it with the side wall of the body on the floor, leaning against the end or against one of the side walls of the garage. But such a method of storage is laborious and inconvenient, since one person cannot put the trailer in such a position, and cannot return it to normal. Each time you need to fasten the wheels to the flanges of the trailer axles, lifting it or resting it on something, and after using the trailer and returning it to the garage, dismantle the wheels again. Except high costs time during this work, you can get injured or bruised.

The way out, which allows you to more quickly and safely install the trailer into the garage, and then couple it to the car, is as follows: you need to dig a pit about 400 mm deep and more than
trailer width. Then the trailer brought into the garage, being tilted by lifting its drawbar up, will go back body in the indicated pit. It remains to attach the drawbar to the transverse wooden beam(from round or timber) of the roof, for example, tie the end of the drawbar to a thick nail driven into the beam, which will now allow the car to be placed in the garage (Fig. 1). Of course, the walls and bottom of the pit should be strengthened, in particular, laid out with bricks on cement mortar.

Unfortunately, often places for individual garages or garage cooperatives are allocated in low-lying places with a close occurrence. ground water or generally in swampy areas, when a pit in the garage cannot be made. In addition, cellars are also built in garages, if possible, which, as a rule, are located near the rear wall of the garage, since a longitudinal viewing hole. Therefore, in winter, the backfill above the cellar will freeze against the pit, or it is necessary to increase the thickness of the backfill by 400 mm, and the cellar should be further deepened to the depth of the pit, which often does not allow groundwater. It is good if all this is provided for during the construction of the garage, and the absence of groundwater allows you to make a deep cellar. But if the trailer is purchased after the construction of the cellar without taking into account the subsequent creation of a pit, then problems arise with the placement of the trailer in the garage. In the southern regions of the country, where relatively warm winters, such a pit solves the problem. True, it should be recognized that the part of the body located in the pit will rust faster due to the increased humidity of the air here.

Rice. 1. Layout of the trailer and car in a standard garage with a pit in it: 1 - trailer; 2 - car; 3 - pit; 4 - drawbar, 5 - roof beam, 6 - attachment to the beam (rope)

I purchased in Nizhny Novgorod region trailer after the construction of the garage, and it does not have a cellar with viewing hole. Therefore, after thinking, I found a more rational way to place both a car and a trailer in a standard garage: I got two pieces 1250 mm long from a thick (about 400 mm in diameter) spruce log. I sanded them, cut them from both sides, initially to a plane, and then, from one side, cut them off at a length of 800 mm at an angle, as shown in Fig. 2, a. It turned out, as it were, two narrow wooden ramps with a rise of 20 °. From below, I made cuts in each of them to a depth of 40 mm, chopped wood here and fastened both ramps with two boards 3 40 mm thick, nailing them. The distance between the centers of both ramps is equal to the distance between the centers of the trailer wheels. At the left (Fig. 2, a) edges of the ramps, he nailed it with nails along the stop piece of timber 3 with a section of 70x70 mm2. Instead of these bars, you can nail to the left end of the ramps along a piece of board. In addition, I nailed board 4 to the cutout in each ramp from below, resting their ends against the back wall of garage 5 to protect the ramps from shifting to this wall. Now everything is ready and you can roll the trailer onto the ramps to the place where the wheels are locked with 6 bars 3 on the horizontal part of the ramps (Fig. 2, b). Raising the drawbar up and lowering the bottom of the rear part of the body into the space between the garage wall and the ramps, we tie the drawbar to the roof beam, that is, we store the trailer without dismantling the wheels, as in the case of a pit.

Rice. 2. Ramp device (a) and placement of the trailer panel (b): 1 - ramp; 2 - transverse board; 3 - lock bar; 4 - thrust board; 5 - garage wall; 6 - wheel; 7 - impact board; 8 - blade

In this position, in addition to the constant readiness of the trailer for use, a volume of space is formed under it for storing garage accessories. If necessary, increase the volume, you can nail one or two more boards of appropriate thickness to their horizontal plane on top of the ramps. It is possible to prevent the wheels from moving off the ramps when the trailer is rolled onto them, nailed to their sides 7 knock-off boards or make the top of these boards flush with the surface of the ramp, that is, increase the width of the entry surface. But, in my experience, the initial width of the ramps, taking into account the width of the wheels, is enough not to nail such boards. To protect against decay, it is advisable to coat the lower wooden surfaces with used engine oil.
Rolling and installation on the ramps is carried out in the following order: roll out the car from the garage, untie the drawbar from the beam and lower it down, then with a slight pull on the drawbar, the trailer easily rolls off the ramps so that it has to be held. Therefore, the specified ramp angle of 20 ° is optimal for braking the trailer by one person. When rolling the trailer back onto the ramps, this angle is also optimal. However, it is necessary to give some acceleration to the trailer within the length of the garage, holding the trailer by the drawbar, and then under force it rolls onto the ramps until it stops with the wheels into the bars 3. Two people roll the trailer onto the ramps without accelerating it. To increase safety, put wedges 8 under the wheels; I put on a segment from the steel corner 70x70 mm.
For more than 10 years, I have maintained a trailer this way. Several of my friends also made similar ramps in garages. And on my advice, they did not make them from thick logs, but sewed them with nails from boards different lengths, hewn at one end at an angle of about 20 °, and they also consider such placement of trailers in the garage convenient.

Two of them, at my suggestion, to facilitate the rolling of the trailer (one had a damaged arm), two blocks were fixed to the ramps on the back wall of the garage, and the rotating rollers were made of round wood with a diameter of about 100 mm. The rollers rotate on axes made of a piece of steel bar 012 mm, which are inserted into the holes of U-shaped holders bent from a steel strip 6 mm thick and 80 mm wide (Fig. 3). At both ends of the axis they are threaded, with the help of nuts on it they are fixed in the holders. To make the holders, the strips were heated red-hot with a blowtorch, quickly fixed in a vise and bent to give them the desired shape in two stages of heating. Each holder is attached through a hole in it to the wall with a long bolt 010-12 mm, passing through the thickness of 1/2 brick of the garage wall, where a cut-off from a steel plate 10 mm thick and long is put on the threaded part of the bolt. about 150 mm, after which a nut with a washer is screwed on. This segment is needed to distribute the draft force along large area walls. For such fastening of the holders, the consent of the owners of adjacent garages located behind the end dividing wall was required. A nylon cord 06-8 mm is laid through both rollers, to the ends of which hooks made of a steel bar 06 mm are attached.

To roll the trailer onto the ramps, lift its drawbar up (you can rest the drawbar on a piece of board), throw both hooks onto the trailer’s transverse pipe, at the ends of which the wheel axles are located, lower the drawbar and roll the trailer up to the ramps, stopping the wheels at the beginning of the rise of the ramps along their axes. Then you begin to pull the rope with your hands, carefully pulling the trailer onto the ramps and watching the position of the wheels on them. In this situation, it is useful to nail the fender boards to the ramps mentioned above to prevent the wheels from rolling off them. Since with two blocks the traction force is required 4 times less than when rolling the trailer by the drawbar, it is easily brought onto the flat parts of the ramps to the stop bars. Further, fixing the trailer is similar to that described earlier.

Rice. Fig. 3. Scheme of fixing blocks on the wall and the location of a nylon cord with hooks at its ends: 1 - holder; 2 - roller with an annular groove; 3 - kapron cord; 4 - hook; 5 - axial pipe; 6 - trailer wheel (to simplify the diagram, the body and drawbar are not shown)

Two more points should be noted here. First, of course, it is necessary to pre-adjust the required length of the nylon cord. Secondly, when pulling the trailer onto the ramps, it is better to keep the drawbar above the surface of the garage floor so that it does not slow down the upward movement, and on the other hand, does not allow the trailer to slide down when the traction force is removed from the cord. We can offer several solutions. It turned out to be very simple to put on the floor in the center of the drawbar a “beam” of three stitched with nails wide boards(one on the other) 60 mm thick and about 1300 mm long. On the surface of the top board, make indentations (notches) along its entire length with an ax. When the trailer is pulled up, the end of the drawbar slides over the surface of the board, being lifted by a cord. If the effort is removed from the cord, then the end of the drawbar will fall into the nearest recess. And since the trailer structurally has a larger mass on the side of the drawbar, it creates, due to the force of gravity, an effort on the beam, pressing it to the floor.

The friction force of the beam on a concrete, brick or wooden floor is enough so that it does not budge. Therefore, as the trailer is brought onto the ramps, it is possible to completely remove the traction force repeatedly and the trailer will remain in an intermediate position. After rolling the trailer onto the ramp, the beam is removed,
Other solutions can be used for the same purpose. In particular, the block can be single, the beam can be made from a piece of log, it can be beveled along the entire length, a rolling roller (wheel) can be fixed at the end of the drawbar, etc.

Storing the trailer in the garage allows you to increase the life of the device. The trailer is vehicle, the requirements for its storage do not differ much from the safety of the car itself.

The trailer can be placed in an unheated dry garage or under a canopy on the street. How to prepare a garage for a trailer with your own hands, the article will tell you.

Features of storing vehicles in the garage

When storing any vehicle in a garage for a long time, so that it does not deteriorate and is well preserved, some rules must be observed. It is impossible to create conditions for the appearance of corrosion on the metal parts of any vehicle.

For this:

• You can wash a car or trailer only in sunny weather to dry them well after washing. Otherwise, the remaining moisture will only bring harm.
• Do not drive into the garage in rainy weather: Moisture accumulates in many places where it is difficult to remove it when wiping the vehicle.
• Do not cover the car or trailer with a tarp or other cape. The temperature difference under the coverlet will allow moisture to accumulate, which will not contribute to the preservation of the metal.

To accommodate transport, it is necessary to properly prepare the garage room.

Wherein:

• If heat in the garage is not required for repair or other work, it is better to turn off the heating during long-term storage of the car or trailer. As a last resort, keep the room temperature down to (+5°C), if possible. A large temperature difference inside and outside the garage creates a favorable situation for moisture formation.
• It is also necessary to take care of good ventilation of the car box (see). A poor-quality or clogged ventilation system does not allow moisture to dry for a long time.
• A viewing hole can also become a source of danger. Inside it, the temperature is much lower than in the box, and with an open pit, a temperature difference will be created, which will provoke the appearance of corrosion.

How to store a trailer in a garage

There are the most different ways trailer and car storage in one garage.

The simplest of them:

• Remove wheels from trailer.
• The body is placed side by side on the floor.
• Leans against the end or side wall of the garage.

Tip: It is not worth storing a trailer in this way, it is very laborious and inconvenient. It is quite difficult for one person to put the trailer in such a position or return it to the desired position, and each time it will be necessary to mount the wheels on the axle of the trailer, and then dismantle them again. It is easy to get injured during these operations.

To store a small car trailer in the garage and car, you can make a hanging frame.

In this case, the frame includes two longitudinal welded "tracks" along the track width, which are hinged to the wall on one side and connected on the other side by a cross member. An eyebolt or eye is attached in the center to lift the frame with a winch.

It is quick and safe to install the trailer in the garage, and if necessary, reattach it to the car after some modifications to the garage.

For this:

• A pit is dug at the back wall of the room, approximately in size:

1. length - 700 millimeters;
2. depth - 400 millimeters;
3. the width is slightly larger than the width of the trailer body.

• A trailer is installed at the rear wall at an angle.
• The drawbar rises.
• The rear part of the body goes into the specified pit.
• The drawbar is attached to a wooden cross beam roofs. Its end can be tied to a thick nail driven into a beam, which will make it possible to place a car in the garage, as shown in the photo.

According to the scheme:

• Pos. 1 - pit;
• Pos. 2 - beam;
• Pos. 3 - rope.

• In this case, the walls and bottom of the pit are strengthened - they are laid out with bricks on a cement mortar. This position in the trailer garage allows you to keep it constantly ready for transportation.

According to the second scheme, the trailer in the garage is located on the ramp.

Such a scheme is often used in garages located in low-lying places where groundwater is close to the surface of the earth or in swampy areas.

In this case:

• It is difficult to make a pit in the garage.
• A cellar is often built indoors (see), which is located near the back wall of the garage.
• In front of it, a longitudinal viewing hole is often arranged.
• In winter, the backfill will freeze under the pit above the cellar, which will require increasing its thickness by 400 millimeters or additionally deepening the cellar, this often prevents the presence of groundwater.

Tip: Only by providing for all these "inconsistencies" in the construction of the garage, and in the absence of groundwater, you can make a deep cellar. However, if the trailer was purchased after the construction of the cellar, without taking into account the appearance of a pit, then problems with its storage begin. It should be borne in mind that the part of the body located in the pit will be more susceptible to corrosion due to high humidity air in this place.

How to make a ramp for installing a trailer in the garage

On the drawing:

• Pos. 1 - board for emphasis.
• Pos. 2 - locking bar.
• Pos.3 - wedge.
• Pos. 4 - ramp.
• Pos. 5 - transverse board.

For the manufacture of the structure you will need:

• Two pine logs with a diameter of approximately 400 millimeters and a length of 1.25 meters
• The bark is removed from them.
• On both sides, the workpieces are combed on the plane.
• One side of each log is cut to a length of 0.8 meters at an angle, nullified, as seen in the figure above.
• The result was two narrow wooden ramps with an elevation angle of 20 °.
• In each log, two cuts are made from below to a depth of four centimeters.
• Boards 40 mm thick are inserted into these grooves, which fasten two ramps together, the boards are nailed. In this case, the distance between the axes of the ramps in the longitudinal position is taken the same as between the wheels of the trailer, taken in their center.
• On the back side of the ramps, locking pieces of timber in a cross section of 70 × 70 millimeters are nailed on top with nails. The bars can be replaced with pieces of boards nailed to the rear ends of the structure.

Tip: To protect the ramps, each element should be nailed to the bottom of the board, which should butt against the back wall of the garage.

• Protective boards are nailed to the sides of the ramp, which prevents the trailer wheels from shifting.

The price of such a device is minimal, and the reliability and convenience of storing the trailer is much better than the rest.

How to store a trailer on a ramp

The instructions for storing a trailer on a manufactured ramp are as follows:

• The trailer rolls onto the ramps until the wheels touch the bars located on the horizontal part of the structure.
• The drawbar rises.
• The rear part of the body is lowered and located in the space between the wall of the room and the ramps.
• The drawbar is tied to the roof beam. In this case, the trailer is located in the same way as in the pit without dismantling the wheels.

Tip: All lower wooden surfaces structures must be covered with used engine oil to protect them from decay.

If you need to use a trailer:

• Roll the car out of the garage.
• Untie the trailer tongue from the beam.
• Drop it down.
• The trailer gently rolls off the ramps.
• When installing a trailer, wedges are placed under the wheels, which increases the safety of using ramps.

In the diagram, the trailer is rolled onto the ramp using blocks and a rope. Here:

• Pos. 1 - holder.
• Pos. 2 - block.
• Pos. 3 - rope.

How to roll up and then secure the trailer near the wall on the ramp, the video shows in detail. Such storage of a trailer in a garage on ramps is very convenient, does not require large material costs during manufacture, and the design is quite simple to use.