Connecting the tenon groove using a milling cutter. The easiest way to make a tenon-groove joint

When making homemade wooden furniture the master is faced with the need to make high-quality spiked joints. Spike connection of parts is the highest quality and most reliable. And although recently more and more furniture is being made and assembled using metal corners, the spike does not give up its position. Not many people can just make high-quality spikes. If a person can make them, we can say that he has already become a carpenter.

In the industry, spikes are said to be "cut" on special precision equipment. At home, it is, of course, not available. Therefore, many craftsmen who make simple garden and country furniture sacrificing quality for simplicity. Let me also remind you that in the vast majority of cases, spikes are cut only along the wood fibers. If the spike is made narrow and across the fibers, it will definitely chip. So that it does not chip, the width of the spike must be at least 15-20 of the thickness of the part. This requirement does not apply to plywood. In plywood, you can cut spikes of any width, but it is desirable that the outer layers be oriented along the spike in the same way.

Meanwhile, for a long time there has been a fairly simple method that allows you to quickly and efficiently make spiked joints. wooden parts even for a beginner carpenter. This method was proposed by Yu.A. Egorov. The essence of the method is quite simple and understandable.

Let's say we need to make a spike connection of two parts. For convenience in the drawings, I painted them in different colors.

A prerequisite for a quality tenon joint is the fact that each saw has a certain cutting width. It is determined by the size of the tooth setting. It can be measured by making several cuts in a piece of wood. And you can directly use the saw to take measurements in the manufacture of spikes.

On each part we apply a risk to the depth of cut, it is equal to the thickness of the parts. If the parts are the same in thickness, then the depth of cut in each part will be the same. If the parts have different thicknesses, then the depths of the cuts will be different. In a thin part, the cuts are deeper (equal to the thickness of a thick part), in a thick part - smaller.

The parts are folded with faces to each other so that the ends coincide, and relative to each other along the side faces they are shifted to the width of the saw cut, with which we will make spikes. (Not the thickness of the saw blade, but the width of the cut!). We fix the parts in a vice or workbench and make arbitrary cuts evenly over the entire width of the parts. If the parts are of different thickness, we make cuts to a depth equal to the thickness of the thin part. (In a thin detail, then we finish it separately). We try to make cuts as much as possible along the axis of the part, avoiding the taper of the spikes.

After this, we release the parts and again shift them relative to each other by the width of the cut, but only in the other direction. By the way, if we now make a shift a little less than the width of the cut, then we will subsequently get a tight tenon joint, which is important for furniture. And if we shift the parts a little more than the width of the cut, we get a free spike connection. The spikes of the parts will freely fit into the grooves of the other part. This circumstance is important in the manufacture of detachable connections (on a stud) or swivel connections.

Ignoring the old cuts, we make new ones, approximately in the middle of the existing spikes. At the same time, we also observe the depth of the cuts and especially carefully their longitudinal.

After that, we release the parts, bring the depth of cuts to the required value (for a thin part, if the parts are of different thicknesses). With a chisel, carefully remove the extra spikes (look carefully and do not remove the ones you need!), We clean the ends in the grooves.

After that, the parts can be joined.

Permanent connections are usually made with glue. For wooden parts, wood glue or PVA glue is perfect. They will maintain the reliability of the connection even if the parts get wet or the moisture content of the wood increases. If the parts will be used in a dry room, you can also use epoxy resins(adhesives).

After the glue has hardened, the junction is cleaned, polished and processed in the same way as the entire product.

If the connection is planned to be detachable or rotatable (for example, you are making blinds or an accordion door from boards or shields), then before proceeding with the assembly, it is necessary to round the ends of the spikes so that their corners do not rest against the grooves when turning. In fixed, but detachable connections, this is, of course, not necessary.

Having connected the parts, all the spikes are simultaneously drilled with a long thin drill. Its diameter should be equal to the diameter of the stud (nail) that you will use as an axis or fastener.

Using this method of making spikes, you can quickly, easily and most importantly, produce spikes on the details of your garden furniture with high quality.

It is very problematic to achieve a strong connection of the beam with screws due to the thickness of the workpieces. Not surprisingly, manufacturers of prefabricated structures often use tongue and groove joints. From this article you will learn how to make a spike and groove with your own hands.

Let's say you need to connect two square pine beams with a 10 cm edge. We will equip the end of one workpiece with a 5 cm spike, and the “receiving” workpiece with the corresponding groove.

Measure from the edge of the first beam 50 mm and draw a transverse line along the entire perimeter. Set the spike width to 2 cm. To do this, find the middle line of the edge and measure 10 mm on both sides of it. Draw two parallel lines along the marks through the butt. It is on them that we will cut the spike.

In this case, the hacksaw should be used very carefully so as not to accidentally violate the integrity of the spike. The same caution will be required when cleaning the surface with a chisel. It remains only to cut off 50 mm from the sides of the spike, and it is ready.

Before you start cutting the groove in the second timber, make sure that the tenon dimensions are correct and transfer them to the work surface. The easiest way to make a blank for the groove is to drill several holes with a 20 mm drill. Remove the rest of the wood chips with a sharp chisel, giving the groove the desired shape.

Now that both structural elements are prepared, check how well and correctly they fit together. If the spike enters easily, and the beam sits correctly at the same time, then you can glue the end of the spike with foaming polyurethane glue and fix the parts.

The thorn-groove connection itself is considered quite reliable, but if you crave ideal strength, then you can achieve it by additionally securing the junction with a wooden dowel.

Please note: the rod is best made from coniferous wood. It is wet enough to slightly expand and jam the structure. Hardwoods do not have this quality.

Make a mark on the outside of the timber and drill a 16mm hole through. Apply polyurethane glue to the round pine dowel and insert it into the prepared and glued hole. The rail should protrude beyond the edges of the beam by 8-10 mm. After the glue has dried and the wooden rod is firmly in place, saw off the protruding parts with a hacksaw and level the surface with sandpaper.

Coloring will hide all the minor flaws in the work. The junction will not only be surprisingly strong, but also virtually invisible.

In the manufacture wooden products a flat tenon is the most reliable way to connect parts. You can make a spike using a hacksaw - an award and a chisel. But it is not the best way. It is more convenient to make spikes using simple electric tools.

The most suitable machine for making spikes is
stationary cutter. In the photo you can see how it was made.
using a saw mounted on the milling shaft. Thorn
It is passed from two sides, so it will be exactly in the center.

The spike can also be cut in a vertical position, for this
you will need a circular saw with a variable saw height. For
workpiece holding guide ruler circular better
make it higher than the length of the spike, for example 10-15 cm. .

Let's go in order.

1. We make the preparation of parts already in a clean size. At
markup to the length of the parts you need to add the length of the spikes. for instance
for doors, spikes are usually made 55-70 mm long. , for tables
or chairs depending on the thickness of the legs,
approximately 30-40 mm. .

2. With the help of a ruler and a square, we mark the shoulders of the spike from all
sides. Then with a hacksaw we make shallow cuts according to the markup.
These will be the shoulders of the spike.

3. We will choose the spike itself with a manual milling cutter, end mill
"barrel". The bearing for the cutter is not needed here. For comfort
and accuracy of work, we install an additional support for the router.
This is a part of the same thickness fixed perpendicularly.
Both parts are attached to the table with clamps.

Knowing how to make a tenon groove with a manual router, you can even make not only beautiful, but also reliable furniture at home, but also various designs made of wood, characterized by excellent load-bearing capacity. According to the "thorn-groove" system, not only elements of various furniture (tables, chairs and shelves) are connected, but also frames low-rise buildings experiencing significant loads during operation.

In order to make a tenon on a hand milling cutter wooden beam, several conditions must be met:

• securely fix the workpiece and correctly orient it in relation to the guide sole of the router;
• set the height of the working part of the cutter so that the tool removes a layer of material of the required thickness from the surface of the workpiece being processed.

Even using the simplest tenoning device for a milling cutter when performing such processing, you can not only increase its productivity and quality of the result, but also make technological process more secure. Especially important is the use of such a device, which can be made with your own hands, in cases where the furniture is produced not in single copies, but in series (in this case, the master has to perform a large number of similar operations, both with the same type and with those having various forms and dimensions of wooden parts).

Tools Used

The creation of spikes and grooves, with the help of which the connection of two wooden blanks will be ensured, assumes that a sample of the material is made on the side surface of the beam or board with a manual milling cutter. In this case, all geometric parameters of the elements of the future connection must be strictly observed.

To perform this operation with a hand router, you can use tools with shank diameters of both 8 and 12 mm. The most universal in this case is groove cutter, the cutting part of which works as follows:

• the side surface forms the walls of the groove and the sides of the tenon;
• the end side processes the bottom of the groove and removes a layer of material of the required thickness from the base of the spike.

So using the tool of this type, it is possible to form both a spike and a groove on the side surface of a beam or board. At the same time, their sizes can be adjusted within a fairly wide range.

In cases where higher requirements are imposed on the reliability of the connection of wooden parts, grooves and spikes do not rectangular shape, but a form called "dovetail". Grooves and spikes of this configuration are created using dovetail cutters. It is also possible to perform the procedure for forming grooves and spikes of this shape with a hand mill, but for these purposes, devices of a different design should be used.

Dovetail sampling using a template

So that the question of how to make a groove in a board and a bar or a spike on their side surface does not cause any particular difficulties, it is better to use a power tool equipped with comfortable side handles, a wide guide sole and the option of protecting the spindle from turning during the replacement of the cutter. In addition, it is desirable that such equipment has a side stop, due to which the overhang of the cutter used with it in the kit will always remain constant.

How to make a stud picker

When forming spikes on wooden blanks with a manual milling cutter, it is not fixed in space in any way and is brought to the workpiece manually. That is why it is very important that when using a power tool, the workpiece is in a fixture that can ensure not only its secure fixation, but also the accuracy of the spikes formed on its surface.

The design of the simplest device that is able to cope with such tasks is:

• several fixed guides (lower, upper, side);
• movable bar, due to which you can adjust the length of the sample.

Such a device is manufactured, the dimensions of the components of which are selected individually, in the following sequence:

1. Along the edges of the plywood sheet, side vertical elements of the same height are fixed, in the central part of which cutouts are made.
2. Guides are installed on the side elements, along which the sole of the hand mill will move.
3. To limit the travel of the hand router along the upper rails, the side rails should be fixed on them.
4. On a sheet of plywood, which plays the role of the base of the device, it is necessary to install a movable element, with the help of which the amount of overhang of the edge of the workpiece to be processed will be adjusted. For fixing, you can use a regular thumb screw or any other suitable fastener.

In the manufacture of the device of the proposed design, the following points should be taken into account:

• The height of the top rails should be the sum of the thickness of the workpiece and the amount of small clearance required to install the fixing wedge.
• The cutouts in the side vertical elements are made so wide that it takes into account the length of the spike being formed.

It is possible to work using the device of the proposed design with a manual milling cutter of almost any type. modern model, in the options of which it is possible to adjust the cutting speed, the amount of feed and overhang of the working part of the tool used.

To create a dovetail spike on the side surface of a beam or board, a device manufactured as follows is used.

• In sheet plywood a hole is made from which the cutting part of the dovetail cutter will protrude.
• From the bottom of the prepared plywood sheet is fixed manual frezer. To do this, you can use clamps, screws or any other fasteners.
• On the surface of the plywood sheet, along which the workpiece will move, a board 2.5 cm thick is fixed. It will act as a guide element. Such a board is consumable and is used once with a cutter of a certain diameter.

Such a device can be installed between two chairs or used to place it in a more convenient and reliable design.

Creating spikes on bars and boards

Using wood splicing cutters for a hand router and the above fixture, processing is performed in the following sequence.

• The part to be machined is placed on the lower reference plane.
• The edge of the part on which the spike will be formed is placed in the cutout of the upper guides and moves in it until it stops against the movable element of the device.
• The movable element is fixed in the desired position.
• Using a wedge element, the upper plane of the part is pressed against the upper guides.
• A manual router is placed on the upper guides.
• The tree, using a tool installed on the router, is first removed from one side of the spike being formed.
• After processing one side, the workpiece is turned over and the formation of the second side of the spike is performed.

Even such a simple design device allows you to process using hand cutters tongue-and-groove connections with high precision and performance.

Before starting work, such a device must be configured. This can be done using the following algorithm.

• The tool installed in the hand router is lowered until it comes into contact with the surface of the base plywood.
• The thickness of the part is measured.
• The thickness of the workpiece is divided by 4. The result will be the distance by which it is necessary to raise the cutter above the base surface.

Using the dovetail pattern, grooves and spikes are created at half their thickness, which is explained by the peculiarities of this type of connection. To make a groove in a beam and a board, as well as to form a dovetail spike, the device must also be adjusted and its components fixed in the desired position.

Having mastered the skills of carpentry, how nice it is to show your family and friends furniture made by yourself. What could be nicer than touching a razor-sharp blade, smelling the wood, feeling its texture, and then making a clean, fresh cut!

This article talks about the basic techniques of carpentry. How to use carpentry tools to get the different shapes, joints and textures of wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with wood trimmings. Get your workshop in order and maintain it. Some masters sharpen before starting a new project hand tool, clean up the workshop and clean all their tools and machines.

Wood preparation and marking

Once you have decided what you are going to do, divide your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each workpiece in accordance with its future place in the product, mark the top, bottom, front surfaces and the best edges. Using a pencil and a tape measure, mark the cuts of the desired length, and with a square - the cut lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.

If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Small mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them out at the same time and remember that one part should be mirror image second. Use a knife to mark the connections.

Curved cuts

You can do it with an electric hacksaw, jigsaw or band saw. A hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood where the cut line is away from the edges.

Hacksaws are equipped with swivel bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, you should use different saw blades. For curved cuts with small radii and wood thickness less than 50 mm, use jigsaw machine or electric jigsaw.

Install a new file and tighten it so that it rings when you flick it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start the cut from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and again clamp and tighten.

For accurate and accurate drilling of large holes, use a drilling machine and Forstner drills. Mark the center of the hole, attach the appropriate drill and set the depth gauge. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the desktop (this will take some time, but it will fully justify itself). If the hole is deep, raise the bit several times as you work to remove debris and minimize overheating. If you have to drill a lot of holes in the same parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the desktop of the machine.

For drilling holes for screws and mounting holes for nails, it is worth using a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to drive a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.

Planing by hand

Planing with a planer is very exciting when the blade is sharp and there is enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Do not forget to strengthen the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.

The end planer is good for processing sharp edges and for cleaning the ends. Set the blade so that it cuts the thinnest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and prevent chips.

Selecting grooves manually

Mark the groove with a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the edge of a knife, transfer the workpiece to the work table drilling machine and with a drill bit of a suitable size, drill out the main part of the unwanted wood.

Remove the chips, clamp the workpiece in a vise and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.

The groove can be selected with a cutter, while the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The milling cutter can be held in your hands and guided along the workpiece, while choosing an open groove, attach it to the desktop and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using a piece of wood. It is best to choose a groove in stages and make several passes. Remove sawdust after each pass to avoid overheating the cutter.

Cutting a spike by hand

Mark the shoulder lines (stud length) with a square and a knife, then mark the height and width of the stud with a thickness gauge. Remove unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First make cuts along the fibers to the shoulder line on all four sides of the spike. Then cut the spike along the shoulder line across the fibers. Clean the spike with a chisel.

If you have a lot of studs to cut (or if you just love working with machines), then a table router is the perfect tool. If the large size of the workpiece does not allow you to place it on the worktable of the router, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the tenon length and the cutter to the desired height, then, pressing the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove excess wood in several passes. When the end of the spike rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure on the reverse side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, clean up the tenon with a chisel.

To select a groove 6 mm wide and 4 mm deep at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the board, proceed as follows. Attach the router to the work table and install the 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10 mm. Adjust the cutter height so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to get a groove 2 mm deep. Turn off the router, raise the bit another 2mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove with a depth of 4 mm.

To select a rebate 10 mm wide and 4 mm deep, proceed as follows. You will need a spur cutter that is smaller than the rebate width (eg 5 mm diameter). Set the stopper 5mm from the trailing edge of the cutter and set the cutter to a height of 2mm. Rest the board against the limiter and select a 5 mm wide rebate. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stop, to get a 10 mm wide seam. Turn off the router, set the router bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the rebate.

Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a slot width or smaller cutter and set the depth gauge. Press a wooden plank parallel to the groove with clamps to the workpiece, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router has reached full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the slot, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you have the desired slot width and depth.

Edge milling

Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.

Move the stop so that it does not interfere. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece is pressed against the cam roller, at which point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, either the cutter is dull or you were feeding the workpiece too slowly.

Template milling

Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, use a saw to cut blanks of approximate shape, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut out a template with a flange allowance from plywood and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.

As a template, you can take an already manufactured part and use a spur cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).

This saw makes it easy to cut at any angle. Set the cutting blade on the frame at the required angle (90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and lock it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press against the stop, and then make a cut in smooth back and forth motions.

Inspect the workpiece and decide exactly where to drive the nail. If this location is close to an edge and there is a risk of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to drill the installation hole first, using a drill that is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable size hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, hold them with round nose pliers.

Screwdriving

You have a choice between mild steel screws, of stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with slots or cross slots and countersunk or panheads. Semicircular heads clearly stand out on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or bordered with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. Screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate nozzle or a screwdriver.

When using a drill, install a locking mechanism so that the screw is driven to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill with a smaller diameter drill.

In order to be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cork cutter. Do not use steel screws for oak - they react with wood and moisture and stain. Use plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws instead.

If you want to make round parts (chair legs, bowls, plates), you can't do without lathe. Get the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget allows, with an adjustable chuck and faceplate set. Spindle-shaped and cylindrical parts are turned, fixing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowls or plates - on the outside of the spindle.

The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off tool, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.

To cut door handle or a latch, you don't need anything more than a good sharp knife (not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood by pressing on the back of the blade thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. For practice, first experiment with, for example, soft linden wood.

Hinge installation

The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass hinges (attached with countersunk screws screwed in flush with the surface) and steel mortise hinges (attached in sockets with countersunk steel screws). In the latter case, circle the hinge leaf with the tip of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should sit tightly in the nest. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.

Sanding wood

For getting smooth surfaces use numerous grades of sandpaper (skins). The skin can be used either by itself or wrapped with it. wooden block. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried, and after the final finish.

For the first sanding use normal sandpaper, for finishing - with a thin skin based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces, use a circular grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.

Natural wood finish

Originally, the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left to in kind, now this concept also includes oil or wax treatment. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.

Allow to dry and work with the finest sandpaper to remove the "ridges" (a rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first layer of coating is absorbed), then a second thin layer is applied. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.

When finishing products that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil such as olive oil instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it on with a cloth.

You have the choice between mineral spirits based oil paint and water based acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one or another paint is very small, however, after working with oil paint, the brushes should be washed with mineral spirits, and after acrylic paint- running water.

Couples oil paint can cause dizziness and nausea, and acrylic paint can cause dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors whenever possible.

Special wood finishes

When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. This texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface will allow you not to worry about being damaged by the claws of pets.

The brush is driven along the fibers until there are no untreated spots on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.

Candle flame finishes help hide imperfections in low-quality wood. Apply to the painted surface with a brush oil varnish. After a while, it dries up and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is driven under the surface. Be sure to wait for the surface to become tacky (fingerprints should remain on it) and keep the nail polish jar and brush away from the candle. This work is best done by two people somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get into serious work.