How to work with resin Epoxy resin casting edp in amateur radio practice

Resin cleaning
It's no secret that working with resin is a little more difficult than working with plastic parts from a regular set. However, exercise caution and a little patience and you will be rewarded with a unique and interesting model.
To begin with, be sure to clean the resin parts from silicone particles.
Gently and thoroughly wash all surfaces with plenty of warm (but not hot) soapy water (rub with an old toothbrush), rinse the part under running water and leave to dry.
White Spirit can also be used to remove silicone particles. Finally, lightly sand the parts with fine, waterproof sandpaper. This will help prevent the formation of the “ fish eye” (with further painting) caused by silicone residue. Sanding also provides better adhesion of the paint to the surface.
Another very useful technique for cleaning and matting resin (or plastic parts) is to lightly brush the parts with Ajax bath powder. It should be a powder, not a paste.
translator's note: Instead of bath powder, I would recommend using tooth powder or paste. Moreover, the paste is sometimes more abrasive than the powder.
Just wet the part, sprinkle with powder and clean with an old toothbrush. Rinse under running water. The result will be a clean matte surface ready for priming (photo 1-4)Shaping (changing) the shape
Resin is a very heat sensitive material. Use only very hot water or a hair dryer when you need to restore the shape of a distorted part. Slight distortion of parts after prolonged storage or damage is common and can be easily corrected by immersing the part in hot water for a few seconds, giving correct form hands and immersion in cold water for fixation. The hotter the water and the thinner the part, the faster it will soften. Keep this in mind when working on fine details such as fenders or cockpit panels.
Resin can be sanded, cut, drilled, putty, but for these operations, be sure to wear a respirator to prevent inhalation of resin dust. Use "Super Glue" or a two part 5 minute epoxy adhesive to bond the resin to resin, metal or plastic (photo 5)

Ordinary liquid plastic adhesives are not suitable for resin and metal. It is advisable to lightly sand the surfaces to be glued for better adhesion. When working with photo-etched parts, it is best to use a 5 minute epoxy. Unlike "Superglue", it does not leave a "haze".

Resin coloring
Resin is a versatile modeling material that accepts paintwork of any type, but from the beginning it is necessary to select correct soil. For best results on resin and plastic parts, use Auto Acrylic as a primer.
Note: Nitro primer (Tamiya and other spray paints) can be used along with Auto Acrylic. It fits well and is susceptible to any paints. The basic recommendations for painting resin are the same as for plastic (photo 6-7)

ENAMEL
If you use enamel as a primer, remember: enamel primer only accepts enamel. Any other paints (for example, Cellulose paint or Automotive acrylic) are aggressive to the enamel primer. Likewise, if you apply an Auto Acrylic/Cellulose finish over enamel, this can also damage the enamel. It is much safer to paint over Auto Acrylic/Cellulose paint.
When applying a second coat of enamel with an airbrush, this can either be done after the first coat has completely dried, which can take a week, or it should be done within 10 minutes of the first coat being applied. The fact is that the solvent in the paint of the second layer often corrodes the coating that begins to form in the first layer.

CELLULOSE PAINT
Cellulose primer itself has poor adhesion to plastics and resins. It forms a thin film of paint on the treated surface, almost without sticking to it. It's the same as eggshell over the model. You can apply any paint over cellulose primer, but there is a chance that the paint will crack and flake, exposing bare plastic or resin, especially when you remove the masking tape. If you are using Cellulose Paint as a top coat, then apply it only to Auto Acrylic Primer. Auto Acrylic and Enamel paints can be safely applied over Cellulose paint.
Note: This type of paint (also known as nitrocellulose varnish) has been widely used in the automotive industry for a long time. However, fewer professionals are now using these paints, as most car manufacturers use other types of paints that are more suitable for mass production (photo 8)

AUTO-ACRYL
Do not confuse with Tamiya water soluble acrylic. The main supplier of good auto acrylics in the UK is Hycote. Gray primer is recommended for dark primary colors: dark green, blue, black. For light colors, white primer is more suitable. In addition, a white primer makes the base color brighter, while a gray primer makes the base color dark and dull. Cellulose and enamel work well over auto-acrylic. Remember that metallics require a varnish coat to achieve a deep gloss.
note This paint is usually produced in an aerosol can, but it can also be applied with an airbrush. Acrylic varnishes give an excellent glossy finish, hold well and dry quickly, although it takes about 16 hours to dry completely (photo 9).

Silicone is a quality material for making flexible molds. Technology self-manufacturing silicone molds

How to make silicone molds yourself and how to make products from epoxy resin

Silicone cures without shrinkage at room temperature to form silicone rubber. Two-component liquid silicone for mold production, silicone molds are suitable for epoxy resin casting production. How to make a silicone mold yourself for casting an epoxy resin product at home. How to make a mold for gypsum or for casting epoxy resin from pour molding silicone at home with no experience in mold production.

The technology of independent production of silicone molds from elastic two-component silicone.

Making silicone molds at home, followed by pouring epoxy into a silicone mold. In this topic, the production of silicone molds for the manufacture of epoxy resin products, we will try to master the simplest technology self-produced silicone molds for pouring epoxy products. Two-component silicone is used for casting molds and making impressions. I offer you a free master class on the manufacture of products from epoxy resin. Technology for the manufacture of silicone molds and methods for the manufacture of products from epoxy resin.

All about raw materials for self-production of molds at home.

How to choose the material for making molds and castings from gypsum, concrete, polymer concrete, polymer resins. In addition, the production of molds and sculptures can become independent. profitable business. How to choose a material for making an elastic mold for castings from plaster or other materials. Casting into silicone molds on the example of manufacturing a simple product from epoxy resin.

Silicone compounds and rubbers are easily processed into molds even at home and do not require any additional equipment, as they have the opportunity for independent manual filling. After reading carefully step by step instructions You can easily make your own silicone molds. The same forms, made on your own, will cost about half as much as you can buy them, in addition, you can make any form yourself and will not depend on the manufacturers of forms and on the range that the manufacturers of forms offer you and you will be able to make that range of forms for products that are not on the market, so you will have absolutely no competition in your assortment.

Copying products, self-producing silicone molds and pouring epoxy into molds is something that you can do yourself at home or in an industrial environment after carefully studying my step by step lesson on the manufacture of silicone molds and master the methods and technology of pouring epoxy resin.

The proposed method is detailed description this technology copying products.

Step 1. As an example, consider copying a simple product. We will cast this part from epoxy resin into a detachable silicone mold, consisting of two parts.

Step 2. To apply the described silicone mold manufacturing technology, we need the following materials, two-component silicone for self-production of the mold and epoxy resin for pouring into the mold for the manufacture of the product.

Action 3. Silicone. This is the material from which the mold will be made. Although a common and inexpensive silicone sealant, it is much easier and more convenient to use a two-component silicone specially designed for making molds. In the example below, we will use just such Pentasil silicone, any other two-component potting silicone will do.

Step 4. Epoxy resin. There are a lot of such resins on the market, and most likely many of them will be suitable for our casting. The main requirement for the resin is that the polymerization time should not be too short. I, in particular, stopped for manufacturing on the example of our product on a product called Finishing Resin. This resin after polymerization is quite elastic, and in physical properties resembles polyurethane resin.

Action 5. Release agent. If two-component silicone or two-component polyurethane acts as a mold material, a separating layer is only needed to separate the halves of the mold. There are many release products specifically designed for this purpose, usually in the form of wax-based aerosols, but if you can't find one yet, we're happy to help. normal fit petroleum jelly or melted wax from a candle.

Action 6. Clay. It will serve as our main building material. Before proceeding with the manufacture of the form, it is worth checking the selected materials for compliance with each other. If you neglect this stage, you can not only not get a copy, but also lose the original. First, make sure that the selected silicone, after curing, can be easily removed from a surface made of the same material as the part to be copied. If this is not the case, the part to be copied will have to be covered with a release layer, or another silicone should be used. Second, make sure that the cured epoxy separates well from the silicone and that physical properties hardened resin will satisfy you.

Step 7. Making silicone molds. To begin with, on a flat solid base (I use a CD for this purpose), we will apply an even layer of plasticine and lightly press the copied part into it.

Step 8. If the part is relatively flat, it can be pressed into the plasticine to the level where the half boundary passes future form. In the case of a more voluminous part, instead of pressing the part to its full depth, we will apply another layer of plasticine around the perimeter of the part.

Action 9. After that, it is necessary to walk around the perimeter of the part and press the plasticine against its wall, thus forming a clear border. To do this, I use improvised devices made from matches and toothpicks coated with silicone sealant. Since plasticine absolutely does not stick to silicone, it is very convenient to process it with this particular material. Please note that on the future casting, a small seam will form at the place where the junction of the halves of the mold will pass, so the location of the border must be chosen in such a way that this seam can be removed without damaging the parts around it.

Step 10. It is important to make sure that the plasticine is firmly attached to the copied part everywhere, so that the silicone cannot leak under it when casting the mold.

Action 11. Now we will make the walls of the future container, for which it is easiest to use the same plasticine. The distance between the wall and the part should be 5-7 mm, and by the same amount the wall should exceed the highest point of the copied part. The junction of the wall with the floor of the container is leveled using all the same devices coated with silicone.

Action 12. After that, it is worth making several small indentations in the floor of our container. They will serve as locks to prevent the halves of the future shape from moving.

Step 13. So, the container is ready for pouring silicone. The silicone that we are currently working with when creating our product consists of two components of a thick white mass, reminiscent of condensed milk in consistency, and a dark liquid catalyst. of blue color, there are catalysts different colors, which must be mixed in a ratio of 10: 1 (the instructions do not indicate, by weight or volume; I use scales for dosage). Bright color catalyst helps to achieve complete mixing of the components - the finished mixture should have an absolutely uniform blue color. Avoid skin contact with silicone and especially catalyst. It is advisable to work with gloves (this, by the way, also applies to epoxy resin).

Action 14. Pour the resulting mixture into a plasticine container with a copied part. This should be done slowly, in a thin stream, and try to pour the silicone into the far corner of the container, and not onto the part, so that the silicone flows around it gradually, from below, without forming voids and the air has time to escape, otherwise I will be in the form of a hole. There is no hurry - this silicone remains fluid for almost an hour, but we must remember that silicones generally have fluidity, that is, a lifetime of 10 minutes. After pouring, the container should be left alone until the silicone has completely cured.

Action 15. After the silicone has hardened, remove all the plasticine. This must be done very carefully, so that the copied part remains in the silicone, from which it very readily separates. First, carefully remove the side walls, then remove the floor.

Step 16 As a result, we have the finished first half of the form with the copied part in it. If traces of plasticine remain on the form or part, they must be carefully removed, again not allowing the part to separate from the silicone.

Step 17. Place the finished half on the same disk and build plasticine walls around it, 5 mm higher than the highest point of the part.

Step 18. Using the above method and tools, we will achieve a more or less tight joint between the mold and the plasticine walls (this is not so simple, because the plasticine is reluctant to stick to the silicone mold, but absolute tightness is not so important here).

Action 19. Be sure to cover the surface of the first half of the form with a separating layer of petroleum jelly, or apply a separator or paraffin in order to prevent the halves of the form from sticking together (silicone sticks to itself tightly). To do this, you can use a brush, applying Vaseline in a very thin layer, and only on silicone, and not on the part to be copied.

Step 20. The container for the second half of the form is ready. The preparation and pouring of silicone is carried out in the same way as for the first half. It remains to be patient.

Step 21. After the silicone has cured, remove the mold from the disk and remove the plasticine walls.

Step 22 Now we have to separate the two halves of the finished silicone mold. Despite the separating layer, the halves may be stuck together at some points, so it will take some effort to separate them. It is important not to damage the copied part inside.

Step 23. So, our self-made two-component silicone mold is ready!

Action 24.Casting an epoxy resin part
First, let's prepare the epoxy. Epoxy resin components are usually mixed in a 1:1 ratio, and it is desirable to adhere to this ratio as closely as possible. For resin, at least the one that we took for production training, the scales will not work, the components have different densities, so it is better to use special measuring cups. Lately, I've been adding a third ingredient to the resin: a small drop of a special coloring pigment (a mixture of black and white). In this case, the casting is not translucent, but has a more familiar gray color.

Step 25 Mix the epoxy carefully, not only in the center, but also along the edges of the container, but at the same time carefully, trying to introduce as few air bubbles as possible. Alas, the formation of these air bubbles is almost inevitable, while it is impossible to put up with them, where the bubble is close to the surface of the part, a hole is formed in the product. There are several ways to deal with bubbles using vacuum and high pressure, but we will use more simple method. The resin, already mixed in the tank, should be heated, for which an ordinary hair dryer will do. After heating the resin, it should be left for a couple of minutes, during which time most of the bubbles will come out. Pay attention to the following photos. At the first resin, immediately after heating, the bubbles rapidly rise to the surface. In the second photo, most of the bubbles came out.

Step 26 Of course, this method is only applicable to resin with long time polymerization. The fast-setting epoxy resin that experienced manufacturers are working with will most likely harden before we have time to finish all these manipulations, especially since heating accelerates polymerization. Now we will apply the resin to both halves of the silicone mold. For this, I usually use a toothpick or a match. The resin is laid out on a silicone surface in a thin layer, while again, you need to try not to make bubbles and not create voids.

Step 27 Epoxy is applied to each half of the mold with a slight excess with a crust. At this stage, you can once again heat the resin, already in the form, forcing it to come out most the remaining bubbles and making it thinner, which will reduce the thickness of the future flash.

Action 28. Put the halves of the form together. In this case, excess resin will simply squeeze out. It is sometimes recommended to provide channels or cavities in the form to drain excess resin, but I did not notice much of their advantage and eventually stopped making them.

Action 29. Press the halves of the mold firmly against each other, for example, between two hard plates fastened with rubber rings, or put under a load. This is important, because if the mold halves do not fit snugly, the flash will be thicker, not to mention the resin may simply leak out. On the other hand, one should not be too zealous either, since the form is elastic, and strong compression can deform it and the future casting.

Step 30 When choosing the position in which we will leave the mold with liquid resin inside, it makes sense to take into account the following consideration. Despite our efforts to control air bubbles, the one or two most stubborn bubbles are likely to remain in the resin. What will happen to them next? Most likely, they will rise up and remain on the surface, forming tiny holes in the finished casting. But where the casting will have the top is up to us. It makes sense to arrange the form so that the top is the part on which the bubbles will be less noticeable, or where it will be easier to repair them.

Now it remains only to wait. By squeezing out the resin, one can judge the readiness of the casting. Do not hurry! If the resin has not yet fully cured, the casting may be damaged when it is separated from the mold. In my case, I do not touch the mold with resin during the day. After this time, the mold halves can be carefully separated and removed.

Action 31. Dried streaks are carefully removed with a match or a toothpick, after which the remaining minor seam can be processed with fine sandpaper.

Action 33. That's all. Our epoxy resin casting, absolutely identical to the original, is ready.

As you can see, everything is quite simple and modern, having gained experience on such small items You will be able to produce serious products that are in demand on the market, and you will also be able to independently produce silicone molds to expand your activities and expand the range, and most importantly, you will be able to make silicone molds and not depend on the assortment that is offered today.

Here is an example of pouring silicone into open matrices

An example of a silicone mold and a finished product from silicone molds. silicone molds

Removing the mold from silicone finished product. How to remove the silicone mold from the finished product

All questions you can ask and discuss on our forum.

Recently we got such a nice truck ZIL-5301 "Bull". Unfortunately, it did not come with a spare wheel, which was supposed to be attached to the rear of the frame. Without hesitation, I decided to quickly mold a mold and cast the missing wheel from epoxy resin. Fortunately, there is something to take a cast and make a copy of, besides, I have not yet had time to throw away the remnants of gelatin from all these forms. But at first I had to suffer a little to remove the wheels from the front axle of the truck. After that, the form for a copy of the wheel was made in just a few minutes, the epoxy itself dried much longer in this form.

Actually, the spare tire of this ZIL was supposed to be attached here (photo below). Now the wind is still walking in this place :-)

From a strip of plastic, we turn off the ring (formwork) a little more than the wheel itself. Try not to make a very wide shape, because later, when cutting the shape, it will be difficult to look for the middle of the tire, because the thick mass of gelatin is poorly translucent. Perfect option, this is when the thickness of the gelatin walls around the part lies in the range of 5-10 mm. But again, this all depends on the size of the part itself, in my case, this is a wheel with a diameter of about 15 mm.

We heat up the gelatin and fill it by a third or half with our plastic formwork. Then we let this substrate cool down. This is necessary so that when the wheel is immersed in a hot mass, it does not sink to the bottom, but remains in the middle of our rubber cylinder.

We dip the wheel into the hot mass and thoroughly brush all the cracks and concavities on the rim with a brush. Don't forget about the tread pattern on the tire. In general, the more carefully you smear, the better the print will be, and accordingly there will be less bubbles on the copy of the wheel. If the part to be immersed is quite massive, then after immersion in the mass, we give it some time to warm up to the gelatin temperature.

After the wheel was coated and got rid of all the air bubbles on it. Without clicking the mitten for a long time, we catch it with tweezers and transfer it to a previously prepared gelatin pillow. At the same time, you should try to scoop up more gelatin with the wheel itself in order to glue it to the base, as it were. In addition, there will be less chance of picking up bubbles again when transferring the wheel to the formwork. Then we align the wheel so that it lies horizontally and in the middle. If necessary, add more gelatin, thereby filling the formwork to the very edges.

After the mass has cooled, you can safely unwind the plastic from this rubber cylinder.

We make an incision and remove the original rubber wheel. We must try to get into the end of the tire, that's it for this reason, it is desirable to make the walls of the form not very thick. Since in this case, the position of the wheel is well felt by the fingers, and sometimes it is even visible through the light. The incision is not very long, somewhere one third less than the diameter of the wheel itself. Through a large incision, it will be inconvenient to fill the form, because the epoxy will flow out.

Slowly fill the mold with resin so that the air has time to escape. With a toothpick or other stick, we distribute the resin in all corners and grooves of the mold in order to get rid of air bubbles, and subsequently shells on the wheel. Gently fold the halves, if necessary, prop them up with something so that the sashes do not open.

In my case, one of the halves of the cut form sank a little lower and did not want to level out, as a result, the seam was like a step. Therefore, after waiting for the resin to become less fluid (thick), put the form on its side and lightly pressed down with a load from above. After that, the step disappeared and the seam lined up flush. Also, you should not squeeze the shape very much, because the halves in the core may collapse and as a result, at the output we will get a separate tire, and a separate fragment of the rim.

Sometimes it is possible to extract epoxy castings without cutting the mold, for example, as. But here this method did not work, the casting stuck tightly, I had to cut and tear the mold.

In the photo below, fragments of torn gelatin, which remained in the slots of the rim. But all these rubber residues are easily washed away hot water from the tap, because gelatin melts perfectly and dissolves in water. In this case, you do not even need to try to clean the remnants with all sorts of toothpicks. Just before that, try to withstand the epoxy casting for at least a day, in air or in the mold itself. Since the epoxy resin that has not fully set begins to become covered with a whitish coating in hot water. I myself did not set up experiments, but perhaps this water bath on a half-baked casting, will subsequently affect the detailing of the part itself.

Actually, our wheel in person, after water procedures :-)

In the light, you can clearly see how thin the jumper between the front and rear parts wheels. It is for this reason that one should not squeeze the mold too much after filling it with resin, as the two halves of the mold could join and this partition would simply disappear.

A little lower in the photo, the result of my other experiments. Here, unfortunately, not a complete 3D copy of the wheel, but it has a more powerful axial part. In addition, such a semi-open form is easier to manufacture, even the axle does not have to be removed. The truth remains to solve the problem with centering and drilling holes for the metal axle in the center of the wheel.

Here I marked where the seam went from the halves of the form. It is clearly seen that the halves of the form are connected almost perfectly. If I had not laid the form horizontally, then most likely there would have been a step.

Back side of the disk. If on the original wheel, before immersing it in gelatin, close up these holes at least half, with plaster, cardboard or something else. Then it will be possible not to be afraid of the collapse of the halves of the form, because the gap will become larger, but the disk will be correspondingly thicker.

Fitting.

Near his brother, from whom this copy was actually cast.

A little video with the spare wheel installed in its place.

In general, I really liked the result of cloning, of course there are some jambs in the form of small shells and bubbles, but they are so insignificant that you don’t even notice them (if you don’t look closely). The inscriptions are readable, the tread is guessed, and nothing else seems to be needed, especially since this wheel will look at the floor :-) At least now you can always cast a copy of any wheel along with the rim, for any of these cars on a scale 1:43 . Some tires of which have the unpleasant property of melting plastic discs on the same typewriters. But since this copying option is somewhat dreary, it is better to use it when the disk on any machine is completely corroded. Therefore, do not allow the disk to completely melt, that is, inspect your collection of models more often in order to have time to take action. By the way, earlier I already posted a small topic about casting tires for cars, there the method is somewhat simpler than this, but a bunch of tires are immediately cast, which are then polished and installed instead of rubber.

Examples of epoxy products. Under the bubble - the "culprit" of the article

I really like all sorts of products made from old types of plastics - bakelite, carbolite and the like, and especially their red varieties. There is something warm and pleasant about them. Previously, they were widely used for the manufacture of radio electronics parts, instrument cases, but they were replaced by cheaper types of polymers. Controls made of such materials are great for steampunk or teslapunk devices - a bizarre combination of retro and futuristic.

Photo from steampunker.ru

As a fan of this trend in technical creativity, I decided to make an imitation of Bakelite for my future project. The fact is that it is quite difficult to find suitable blanks from similar materials, and handles for modern Bakelite resistors, for example, I have not even seen on the Internet. The project was based on the method of casting epoxy resin with fillers into a silicone mold.

Epoxy resin casting mold

I chose a two-component silicone composition for making jewelry as the material for the mold. It is easy to use and quite cheap (compared to liquid silicones), but does not transmit well. small parts and forms from it wear out faster. It is sold in small packages and is great for experimentation.

The master model must be prepared before the impression is taken. If the object has a flat side, then this greatly simplifies the whole process. I thoroughly washed the handle with soap and glued the base to a sheet of plastic, then smeared the surface with a thin layer of thick grease. The layer must be very thin, this is important!

To make the mold material, mix the silicone according to the instructions. In my case, this ratio is 1:1, the “life” of the composition is 1-2 minutes. "Pour time" or "Life time" is an important indicator than harder form master model, the slower the composition should solidify in order to convey all the details. During the manufacture of the form in Kiev, there was a terrible heat, and the composition hardened even faster. Already 30 seconds after mixing the parts, it stopped molding and polymerized, so the temperature should also be taken into account. How colder lineups, the longer they react and the longer they remain plastic.

Pay attention to the “pimp” in the center of the form, it will come in handy later

The finished form turned out to be "C grade". I didn't have time to push the rapidly reacting silicone into some of the bottlenecks of the model, there were also a few dents at the joints, which would be protrusions on the casting. Form errors will later need to be corrected with a file on the casting.

Resin EDP

Casting material - EDP epoxy glue with fillers: carbolite dust for color and silicon dioxide for general density, painted with ink from a ballpoint pen.
The requirements for the filler are simple: it must be finely ground and dry. You can use textolite dust, wood dust remaining after power tools, chalk, special fillers. I “planed” the carbolite dust with a drill, I took silicon dioxide from the preparation “Atoxil” - this is a sorbent for poisoning, the composition is 100% SiO 2.

It is more difficult with dyes: although the “gold standard” in amateur practice is ballpoint ink, the results vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Sometimes the hardener reacts with the ink and discolors it, sometimes it boils when mixed. Always test the suitability of the ink by mixing it with a drop of hardener before preparing the resin. In short, the experiment is our everything!

For a reddish brown color, I used red and green pastes. Otherwise, the preparation of the resin is no different from the instructions. To increase fluidity ready mix warmed up.

Filling a Shape

I made the first casting in one piece, without a central hole. I planned to drill it then, but I thought: if I cast the part as a whole, why not do it immediately with a hole? The protrusion in the form came in very handy, on which I put a straw from a cocktail - resin does not stick to it and its diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the resistor axis

It's not worth doing that.

Eureka!

Now - important point. If you let the resin completely cure, then when you try to insert a resistor into the hole, the part may burst! While the resin is sufficiently plastic, but already completely holds its shape, it is necessary to form a “toothed” part in the hole in response to the resistor. So the handle will not be able to turn and will sit tightly on the axis.
To do this, we take out the straw, lubricate the resistor shaft and heat it a little - this will soften the resin. It is better to use resistors with a long shaft.

We do not remove the part from the mold yet. We press the shaft into the part and leave it until the resin is completely cured, i.e. for about a day at a temperature of 30 degrees. That's where the heat comes in handy!

Cast part finish

Remove the hardened part from the mold. Now you can see all the flaws in the form, eliminate them with needle files and sandpaper. I filled the groove with paint from the corrector, it turned out well. All covered with clear varnish.

In this way I made three pens. Their color is different, since it will not work to prepare resins for three blanks at once - there is only one form! In the photo there are two copy pens (one unfinished) and the original.

• Do not add too much hardener in the hope of speeding up hardening many times over. You don’t have to do it once in a while - the resin can boil and you will be left with a smoking sponge;
• Do not use gel pen paste as a dye - it does not dissolve in resin;
• Blue ink often reacts with the hardener and becomes discolored. Do you want to receive blue resin- buy rods from different manufacturers and conduct an experiment;
• The resin does not stick to such materials: adhesive tape, self-adhesive film backing, polyethylene, silicone sealant, food film.
  

Large-scale modeling... Once upon a time, boys were fond of this. They mainly made models of military equipment: tanks, planes, ships, though made of cardboard. The stores sold scale models of various machines, some of the military equipment. These models are still on sale, but they are far from being available.

But scale models can be made at home using inexpensive material that can be freely purchased at any store. The ego can even become small

To work, you need to purchase epoxy resin, a material for making casting molds - a plasticizer (at any pharmacy) and some simple tools.

For casting a mold for making a model, it is advisable to purchase finished model(made to scale), but you can, of course, make it yourself from improvised materials (wood, paper, polystyrene, the same epoxy, etc.). You can buy, say, a model of the Titr tank, make a mold from it, and then cast a copy from epoxy resin using the mold. If the mold is well made, the copy of the model will exactly match the model itself.

The technologies for making molds and castings are approximately the same as in the manufacture of figures from plaster.

Plastic molds can be used repeatedly, it is possible to make them from other plastics.

To make a scale model of the Tiger tank, you will need no more than 50-70 rubles. The price of such a model in the store is from 300 rubles.

You can make not only scale models of military equipment, it can be models of people at any scale, models of castles, some structures, and even spaceships from " star wars» J. Lucas. The subject matter is limitless.

The image can also be found anywhere - take a picture on your CD from some movie. CD illustrations, magazines and other sources.

The author of the idea advises: if this is a copy of a model bought in a store, then it is advisable to set the price not higher, but about 30-40% lower than the store one. To keep the price low, try not to make details that are not visible.

There are special magazines: Tankmaster, Steid-master, M-Hobby and other Russian magazines, FineScaleModeler magazine (USA) and many other publications that are perfect for developing this business.

The author of the idea offers his services in the manufacture of a master model. In addition, it will help in the design of the packaging of the model and the completion of the ss in a fancy image (in 3DMax) for electronic advertising and mailing lists, for which you need to send by e-mail appearance model, its drawings, indicating the dimensions and the required scale of the model.

Recommendations. For successful implementation, according to the recommendations of the author of the idea, it is necessary to advertise in specialized modeling magazines and newspapers. Internet, both in Russia and abroad. Abroad, the price is much higher than in Russia, and for original models you can become famous at international exhibitions, it all depends on your desire, idea and skill.

You can get full information on the technology, where in detail and methodically, step by step, how to make the Tiger tank and other models, you can get by writing to email address: [email protected] ru (to Sergey). The information also contains articles about similar production from foreign sources, as well as addresses of potential buyers.

Costs and income depend on your capabilities.

It would seem, why do we need artificial flowers with such an abundance of living things at any time of the year? But, nevertheless, they are made and successfully sold. They buy such flowers to decorate the interior of the house, ...

The word "plexiglass" is used when referring to sheet poly - methyl methacrylate domestic production. The concept of "acrylic" is often used, behind which lies the product of radical polymerization of foreign-made methyl methacrylate. Basically, this is one...

With the advent of spring, the summer season begins for the townspeople. Seeds are purchased different plants, beds are being prepared, planting is in progress. You need to plant everything on time, but how to do it when only two are given a week ...