Foam insulation for insulation of foundations. Facts about everything The old way of how to insulate the ceiling of the bath

landscaping 17.06.2019
landscaping

Real estate and electricity prices are steadily rising. Building corporations and ordinary people who want to build their own home are forced to look for ways to reduce the cost of providing heat to the premises.

is one of the best solutions. To be honest, this is not new at all. This technology has long been used by our ancestors. It was first remembered in Europe and the USA, when the issue of the thermal efficiency of houses became an edge. You should not be naive to assume that the straw house will fall apart at any moment, as in the fairy tale about the three little pigs. Thanks to special technologies, such a house will stand for a hundred years to the delight of its owners.

In America, for example, from the middle of the 19th century they built thatched houses. It started because straw is a publicly available material, but there was not enough wood. As soon as press machines were invented, building straw houses gained popularity. After the emergence of new construction technologies(mid-20th century) straw was forgotten, but not for long. The crisis of the ecological situation and concern for their health prompted people to revive such construction.

has a number of advantages listed below:

  1. Excellent thermal insulation.
  2. Relative speed in construction.
  3. Cheap straw.
  4. Fairly good soundproofing.
  5. Ecologically pure material- does not harm health.

In case of non-compliance with technology straw house insulation the following consequences may occur:

  1. Rotting of straw at a moisture content of more than 20%. It is necessary to clearly monitor during construction so that the straw is dry.
  2. During construction, fire is very dangerous. By themselves, blocks of straw, pressed on special technology, resistant to fire. But, during the construction process, there should be no fire on the site (even smoking is prohibited), because. a few bundles of straw on the floor can start a big fire.
  3. The risk of rodent colonization in straw walls. To avoid such troubles, experts advise using rice or rye straw, which mice do not eat.
  4. Although it is not expensive to build straw houses, it is necessary to immediately have funds for a complete construction, taking into account the internal and exterior finish. Such construction cannot be “frozen” and continued in a year or two.

Where to begin insulating your home with straw? First you need to purchase pressed blocks of straw. It is very important that the pressing is strong and of high quality (otherwise there will be risks of fires). Next, the blocks are placed between the racks of the frame. Straw blocks are fastened with rods (both metal and wooden can be used). The next step in warming the house with straw is the processing of straw. As a rule, it goes clay-lime mortar or a mixture of clay and water. It should be applied in several layers.

Drywall covers the inside of the wall. For exterior finish many options. The wagon looks good. Thanks to frame technology a wall insulated with straw is quite resistant even to hurricane winds.

If the walls of the house are made of straw, then the roof cannot be constructed from very heavy materials. To keep the rain and snow in in large numbers did not hit the walls, they usually make a cornice with a margin (at least 50 cm).

A positive thing when building straw walls is that the foundation may not be massive, which speeds up and reduces the cost of the construction process.

In addition to the obvious environmental benefits, straw wall insulation is cost effective. Brick house with the same level of comfort, as a rule, it costs twice as much. Wood prices are also constantly rising, due to insufficient renewal of the Earth's forest reserves. Straw, in fact, is waste, which often rots. The price of straw bales mainly consists of the cost of pressing the straw. The cost of the material is negligible. It is worth considering why, with a number of advantages, straw houses did not replace other construction? The answer is tritely simple - it is unprofitable for someone, namely corporations that produce expensive building materials. So before you enrich someone's pockets, you should study in detail the pros and cons. And choose a house of straw!

Today, many build baths on their plots. It is clear that it should be as warm as possible. If the owners do not want to receive an inappropriate design, then thinking about every moment is at the planning level. But when creating a full-fledged bath, you can save a lot on firewood.

What is worth thinking about? Bath ceiling insulation milestone in construction. There are enough offers on the market for materials. Before starting construction, it is worth considering any action. After all, each material has its own characteristics and fastening technology.

When is insulation essential?

According to experts, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in baths is not required in every case. There is a law of physics that should not be forgotten: warm air rises up. The ceiling restricts the movement of heat, and there it accumulates without benefit. In this situation, it is important what level of thermal conductivity. In the absence of an insulating structure, about 30 percent goes outside.

Dependence on the season

Some note that for a bath flooded in summer time There is nothing wrong with not being insulated. If this building is used all year round, then you have to think about insulation.

In addition, if a person does not want to drown all day, it is also worth completely eliminating heat loss. This can be done without the involvement of specialists. Since the insulation of the bath ceiling is a simple process, it remains only to take full instructions into service.

Several ways to choose

As already noted, there are enough ways, you just have to choose your own and implement the project. How is the choice made? This is affected by what is above the ceiling:

Despite this, there is a limitation in work. Specialists identify several main areas:


As a result, each procedure gives the main result - the insulation of the bath ceiling. With your own hands, this operation can be completed in a couple of days. Before starting, it is worth understanding the effectiveness of each action, the preparation of the material and tools required in the process. Having understood the nuances, you can proceed with the installation.

Decking ceiling

In the process of work, several constituent materials will be required - expanded clay, clay and sawdust. When present cold attic, and there is no desire to insulate it, then it is worth considering some points. The flooring option is the most suitable for this design.

This is a simplified erection - since the ceiling is not affected by loads, reinforcement of the beams is not required. Cher new design lays directly on the harness. By the name of this method, it is clear that an embankment will be produced. Therefore, it is worth laying a chopping block with a thickness of at least 4 centimeters so that collapse does not occur.

What should be the layer?

Materials are used by any available to the owner of the building. But the principle is the same. This is a "pie" in several layers. The overlay from bottom to top goes like this:

  1. Finish ceiling.
  2. A layer of vapor barrier material.
  3. Boards.
  4. Wax paper.
  5. insulation layer.

vapor barrier

It must be said about Its function - it is not only protection against steam, but also the ability to withstand high temperatures. There is no such product on the market. a large assortment so it's easy to choose. Many people think foil is the best option.

The warming layer is made of expanded clay, clay with straw. If this is a modern flooring, then so that the constituent elements do not spill through the cracks, paper is used (necessarily waxed). The thickness of the coating reaches 30 centimeters. This is quite enough to ensure that the protection is maximum, and the heat does not go outside. On sale there is expanded clay of various fractions. It is important to lay so that voids do not form. This is the only way to do the insulation of the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay.

Some craftsmen additionally fill boards of small thickness over the surface (for separation.) But there is no great need for this.

Clay and other options

The next type is the use of clay. It is initially soaked, after which it is mixed with straw or sawdust. Insulation of the ceiling in the bath is done when a homogeneous composition is reached. After the resulting mass is distributed around the perimeter of the insulation zone. There is another option: you can dilute the clay, place it over the entire area, let it dry for four days. After the cracks that have appeared, seal them with the same solution. Pour sawdust or oak leaves on the surface, up to 9 centimeters. The final layer is dry clay 5 centimeters.

From the side of the bath (to the draft ceiling), a vapor barrier material is mounted. Joints are sealed with construction tape. After the crate is made, and the ceiling is already installed on it. It can be a forcing or just a chopping block. The choice will depend on the financial capabilities of the owner.

If both of these options are compared, then there is one common minus. it big weight. This means that the ceiling should be made of thick boards. The advantage of this method is the low cost of raw materials. good option it becomes the insulation of ceilings in baths with mineral wool with their own hands. Expanded polystyrene is also often used. But such materials will not be cheap.

What should be prepared?

In the process of work, it is worth preparing the necessary source materials and tools. It:

  • Construction stapler.
  • Saw.
  • A hammer.
  • Boards.
  • Foil and wax paper.
  • Metal tape.
  • Nails.
  • Expanded clay or clay.

Before purchasing a warming material, it is worth making its calculation so as not to spend too much and perform maximum protection.

false ceiling

Create such a ceiling insulation in baths with cold roof not so easy. This is required for those who wish to create a room after the erected structure. If there is a living space on the second floor, then it is worth making the floors reliable and complete. After that, the ceiling is already being filed. Before starting work prepare:

  • Construction stapler and tape measure.
  • Hammer and saw.
  • Sharp knife.
  • Kiyanku.
  • Beams.
  • Foil.
  • Metal tape.
  • nails with protective layer.
  • Reiki for framing.
  • Lining or other finishing material.
  • Insulation.
  • Cutting board.
  • Film for vapor barrier.

Before buying, it is worth calculating the amount of insulation for the ceiling of the bath. If the bulk method is chosen, then the calculation is made from the height and area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. Do not forget about the climatic indicators in the region. How will the insulation look from the bottom up:

After preparation the right materials and the required tools, the work process begins:

  • First you need to lay the floor beams.
  • After that, the vapor barrier is fixed to them from below. For this, foil is purchased. To completely eliminate the passage of air, it is worth sealing with metal tape. It is good to conduct such work with a stapler.
  • So that the steam probably does not gather, the slats are fixed, a gap of 3 centimeters is made.
  • For finishing it is better to use lining. But such material is not cheap, so if you wish, you can replace it with something.
  • Next is to climb into the attic. Insulating material and vapor protection are laid between the beams. But what to choose? It is good to insulate the ceiling of the bath with basalt wool.
  • After it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing. If we are talking about a bath, then it is better to give preference to the membrane.
  • Next, edged boards are used, everything is hidden under them. Since this part will become the floor for the second floor, concrete should not be used. He's heavy.
  • Flooring is being carried out as a finishing material.

The process is not difficult and anyone can handle it. Do not skip any of the steps, otherwise the design turns out to be unreliable and will not create additional heat.

How to insulate a panel ceiling?

Masters say that such a design is rare in a bath, because it is difficult to work with it. The fact is that you need to mount a pallet into which the main materials will be immersed. In the work you will need to apply:

  • A hammer.
  • Peel.
  • Construction stapler.
  • Sharp knife.
  • Nails.
  • Foil.
  • Mineral wool.
  • Bars.
  • Boards.

To insulate the ceiling of the bath with mineral wool, it is worth taking a thickness of up to 10 centimeters. It is easy to work with the material, as it is cut with a knife, inserted and, if necessary, pressed. You need to mount the pallet depending on the room itself, but the width can reach up to half a meter.

Knowing the length and width of the ceiling, you can calculate in advance how much it costs to purchase. There is no need to take extra. Sometimes mineral wool has a high density. In such a situation, it will not work to compress it - only cut it off. But these pieces can be used in some recesses. If the size of the bath ceiling is 3.5 by 3.5 meters, then 22 standard mats will suffice.

It is clear that in the bath the temperature rises strongly, so it will not work to use any insulation. Particular attention is paid to the place where a person will bathe. The material must be:

  • Non-combustible. Do not create smoke in case of fire.
  • Capable of not responding to temperatures up to 100 degrees.
  • Do not take liquid.
  • Do not release chemicals into the air.

Find fully quality and suitable material not so easy, because each has its pros and cons. Therefore, it is worth building your choice based on these data. How the work is going:

  • The first is a new design. To do this, you need bars or boards, the length of which can reach up to half a meter.
  • The bars are fixed at a distance of half a meter, and the boards are fixed perpendicularly to the fasteners. From the edge, an indent of 4 centimeters is made.
  • Externally, this is a box. The vapor barrier is deepened into it. Then it is fixed. Such a shield must be raised up. It is better to strengthen it so that it does not fall apart.
  • Created shields are placed close to each other on the roof.
  • Walls will be the supports for such a structure. From this it follows that their length should be identical. The insulation is laid in the existing pockets. Next, the overlay of the flooring boards is done and after that - the finishing floor.

The panel ceiling is used in baths on two floors. It is compared with a hemmed one. As a result, everyone decides for himself whether to save or not on the construction of the structure. Working with the installation panel ceiling, you should not use plastic in the finish. He is very afraid of high temperatures. So, a few hours after using the bath, this whole structure can simply be deformed, ruining the entire interior of the room.

Conclusion

So, we figured out how to insulate the bath on our own. Before making the final choice of material, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of each insulation. Only in this way will it become clear which is better. Some have increased flammability, which is definitely unacceptable. Builders believe that ceiling insulation should be planned at the level of bath construction. And everyone can do it with their own hands, without the involvement of specialists.


When arranging a cottage or country house often the task of building a bath arises. The classical bath has developed a number of specific traditions dating back to ancient times. Previous generations have created proven construction and finishing technologies. Thanks to these techniques, the bath has unique healing properties. Today we'll talk more about how insulate the ceiling of the bath.

Ceiling insulation

During construction baths, installation and insulation of the ceiling is considered one of the important points. What's on the ceiling? In the process of using the bath, he undergoes a number of aggressive influences. Conditions are created inside the steam room high humidity and air temperature. Hot steam rises to the ceiling, and if there is a small heat transfer through the ceiling, the space inside the bath will not warm up, and bath will not serve its intended purpose. There are many ways to insulate ceilings, consider some of them.

The old fashioned way insulate the ceiling of the bath

On the grooved boards, a solution of pasty clay about 5 cm is spread from the side of the attic with the addition of chopped rye straw. After drying, the clay cracks. This dried layer is rubbed with a solution composed of clay and sand. When both clay layers dry, a sand cushion 10-12 cm thick is poured on top. Clay-sand layers serve to absorb excess moisture, which is formed from wet steam. Due to the high temperature in the sauna room, when there is no steam, the clay layer dries out and retains heat in the bath.

Backfill method

Groove boards are nailed to the beams. They need to be proliferated. A layer of boards with moisture gaps is attached to the grooved boards. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top. A pillow of 20 cm from bulk types of heat insulators is poured onto the waterproofing layer. It can howl slag, sand, a mixture of sawdust with clay. A good option for this method of insulation is considered to be backfilling with expanded clay granules.

Combined method of how to insulate bath ceiling

The ceiling is sewn up with thick boards, the thickness of which is from 7 cm or more. A vapor barrier is laid on the boards (waxed paper, oiled cardboard, foil). Then a pillow is made of soft clay, on which a 15 cm thick insulation is laid.

As a heater, various organic and mineral heat-insulating substances are used. For example, sawdust with clay, expanded clay, modern mineral fiber materials. A sand-cement screed is made on top of the thermal insulation, and flooring is made on top. On the mineral wool additionally lay a film or sheets of fiberboard.

Combined method with sawdust

Two layers of boards are screwed to the beams with screws, the first layer consists of edged boards, and the second (with inside) - finishing lining made of aspen with gaps left. On top of this structure, cardboard is covered from the side of the attic, and on it - 2-5 cm of a clay layer mixed with sawdust. Next layer - 15 cm basalt insulation. This whole "pie" is covered with film and attic boards.

On modern construction market you can find a great variety of heaters made of jute, flax fiber and other materials. Good feedback meet about jute felt, which does not emit harmful substances.

It's several ways how to insulate the ceiling of the bath. I will be glad if I helped you with advice.

Lunarman, reading your posts, it is logical to draw only one conclusion - you are a seller of heaters, such as mineral wool and other nasty things in terms of ecology + high cost, or a firefighter who has suffered with extinguishing "bare" sawdust
Here on the forum, people mixed sawdust with a binder and set it on fire and what they didn’t do with them, but such material is not afraid of anything, so your negative opinions about sawdust as a heater - "peas against the wall."
No, I'm not a seller, but I just work with my head sometimes.
What is "sawdust with a binder"? With clay, right? So I said above that earlier double floors were insulated like this (but not ceilings - what's the point there?).
And about the fact that "such material is not afraid of anything," this is for the time being. Even fire-retardant impregnations do not make a tree forever non-combustible - over time, all this chemistry can be neutralized.
Do you believe in miracles, or something, like non-combustible sawdust? If they become non-combustible, then they will obviously lose their properties (hygroscopicity and low thermal conductivity).

Now I'm wondering about the mineral wool, already the second person is talking. What kind of "ecology" is it "bad"? In principle, tell me, what do you think it consists of?
Mineral wool is bad in walls - it is necessary to nail or press, otherwise voids will appear at the top over time, but in the subject - about the ceiling.
As for the "high cost" - it's also strange to hear. Any "Ursa", etc. not really worth it, to be honest. Rockwool is more expensive, of course, but also, in my opinion, a relative trifle.

And how much fire-fighting impregnation did you exhaust on
I lived all my life in pieces of wood with a ceiling and a floor insulated with sawdust, in these houses there were stoves ... They were and are warm, although there was no mineral wool. All these houses were more than 20 years old, except for one ...

I think that mineral wool will not give the house wooden properties fire fighting, for some reason. And here is the properly done wiring, good chimney and a working oven will give some confidence)

Firstly, I did not insist on mineral wool. He said, at least take the slag (we have old house in the country from the previous owner and was covered in the attic with slag, but not with sawdust, of course).
And you don’t see the difference between a log board and sawdust, or what? In terms of fire safety?
And mineral wool in the attic between the floors - that’s what it is. It won't slip anywhere, it won't get wet from anywhere. And, thus, the thermal insulation properties will not lose. Mice, of course. Well, then pour expanded clay. Or the slag.

I have a workshop built in the 1950s on the ceiling with insulation - sawdust with clay
stand for 60 years. Warm.
does not cake, does not burn antiseptic is not necessary. So our floors and ceilings were insulated in the old days. BUT clay is better mix not with sawdust, but with sexual
It was not about sawdust with clay. About sawdust with clay and I spoke right away. Only this is already the Stone Age, and, mainly, for the floor. And not so warm in comparison. I lived in a house where the floors were insulated with sawdust and clay, and in a house (now) where - expanded clay with mineral wool. Two big differences.
If fire is excluded from chimney(slag, cutting, etc.), then how will sawdust ignite, for example? Just wondering.

There can be many things. Everything in the attic is like gunpowder. The beam will pass through the defective glass, focus, a spark from some pipe through a microhole will one day jump out. You never know. Why is all this necessary? Sawdust eventually turns into tinder in fact.

That's right, I'm in a similar situation. Yesterday I went to the attic of the bath, dug up the sawdust, took a picture. Sawdust like new, not an ounce of dampness.

Dry, that is. Oh well.

"Sawdust-in-the-attic-bath". Surrealism, gentlemen, one word.
Moreover, bathhouses are not even particularly insured by insurers. In any case, ours are not insured (Moscow region, south).

If there weren't so many people standing up for these sawdust in the attic, I would never have believed that this could be. So surprised, one word.

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