Make a floor in the garage: what and how. How to make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands: step-by-step installation technology What to lay boards in the garage on

To create a floor in the garage exists a large number of various materials and technology, but despite this diversity, many motorists choose to equip the floor natural wood, since this material has a number of significant advantages over the others. In this article, we will tell you how to lay a wooden floor in the garage yourself, describe the advantages of this type of coating and laying technology.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden floor

There has always been controversy over the use of wood as garage flooring, as wood, like any other material, has its advantages and disadvantages.

Among the shortcomings can be noted:

• Absorbent features of wood. Due to its structure, the tree actively absorbs characteristic odors, and in case of accidental spills of fuel and lubricants, stains remain on it, which are almost impossible to remove, which significantly increases the risk of fire.
• In some CIS countries, the price of wood is quite high and it is not economically feasible to lay this material on the floor, since finishing the floor with floor tiles will come out much cheaper.
• Wood is exposed to moisture, and also suffers from small rodents and tree insects.

All of the above shortcomings can be easily eliminated with your own hands, using various protective equipment, which we will discuss below.

The benefits of wood flooring include:

• Long service life. If the coating is pre-treated with protective compounds, then its service life can reach several tens of years, depending on the intensity of use of the garage.
• Ability to quickly replace part of the coating in case of damage.
• A wooden coating is much nicer than concrete if you have to inspect or repair a car while lying down.
• The correctly chosen thickness of the garage floor board is in no way inferior to the concrete floor in its strength (see).
• Simplicity of design and laying process, which allows you to create a wooden floor without any special knowledge or experience.

For your information. When using special wood impregnations, the coating absorbs moisture well from the room without losing its physical characteristics. This allows you to reduce dampness in the room and protect the body from moisture.

Wood flooring protection

Before you make wooden floors in the garage, you need to take care of the protection of the material used, which will significantly increase its service life. The use of various varnishes, paints and impregnations will give the wood new physical characteristics, which will allow the material to withstand moisture, decay, increase wear resistance and fire safety.

All protective substances can be divided into three types:

• wood varnishes. They form a protective film on the surface of the wood, which protects the material from abrasion and the effects of destructive factors.
• Antiseptics- special substances that penetrate deep into the material and protect the tree from moisture, rodents, decay and give fire-retardant qualities.
• Paints are mainly designed to protect the surface of the material and decorative surface decoration.

Important. Before covering the wooden floor in the garage with paint or varnish, the wood must be thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptic solutions, the combination of which is selected depending on the use of the room.

The choice of material and the order of work

Before you start creating a coverage, you need to create step by step plan actions, study the device of a wooden floor in the garage and purchase material in the right amount. Today you can find many different options for the device, but the most optimal is the option shown in the photo above.

The most optimal would be the following technology:

• Laying a cement screed with reinforcement, if it was not done at the construction stage;
• Installation of waterproofing material;
• Laying insulation is not mandatory, but a desirable procedure;
• Installation of transverse logs;
• Laying the floor board on the logs;
• Treatment of the floor surface with protective paints and varnishes.

The listed steps can be used by you as an instruction for action, as well as for creating a purchase estimate. consumable. Below we will review the list necessary materials that will be required to create a wooden floor.

For work we need:

• Crushed stone of medium or large fraction to create a pillow under the screed;
• Clean river sand to create a pillow and prepare a cement mortar;
• Cement brand not lower than M400;
• Metal rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm and mounting wire to create reinforcement;
• Roofing felt or building film for waterproofing;
• Wooden beam of square section 200x200 mm for laying transverse logs;
• A board with a thickness of at least 3 cm to create a flooring;
• Mineral wool or expanded clay for floor insulation.

Important. Before you make a wooden floor in the garage, we recommend that you consider purchasing floor grooved boards, as the presence of special grooves will provide additional strength and help avoid cracks, making the joints airtight.

The process of creating a wooden floor

Before you make the floor in the garage from the boards, you need to create a solid foundation in the form of a cement screed (see). To do this, remove a layer of soil with a thickness of 40 centimeters and level the surface horizontally using a level.

Then the soil is compacted, a layer of sand with a thickness of 5-6 cm is laid on its surface. A layer of crushed stone with a thickness of 5-6 cm is laid on top of the sand and everything is carefully compacted.

After creating the pillow, it fits metal crate from rods in the form of a grid with a cell width of 15-20 cm. The rods are tied together with wire, and the crate is installed on bricks so that the grid is at a distance of several centimeters from the gravel layer.

After that, the solution is prepared and poured over the entire surface of the floor with a thickness of 10-12 cm, followed by leveling.

Important. After the cement screed has dried, a roofing material or building film is laid on its surface to create a waterproofing. The waterproofing is laid with an overlap on the walls, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape to achieve tightness. On this, the creation of the base of the floor is completed and the laying of the wooden floor in the garage begins.

Laying transverse logs

We will use a bar with a section of 200x200 mm as transverse support logs, but for this you can also use a bar with a section of 150x200 mm, only in this case it must be laid on the edge to increase rigidity.

For your information. Before you properly make a wooden floor in the garage, remember the strict plan for laying boards. Bearing logs are installed across the garage, at a distance of 30-50 centimeters from each other, depending on the thickness of the floor board and the weight of the car. Floor boards are laid perpendicular to the joists along the garage.

When installing lags, follow these recommendations:

• The tree has the properties to deform when exposed to temperature or moisture, for this, set a gap of 2-3 centimeters between the end of the log and the wall;
• For reliable fastening of the structure, the logs are interconnected by boards at the ends or dowels to the surface of the screed, after which the attachment points are coated with bituminous mastic.
• Many recommend leaving a gap between the floor surface and the log for air circulation, and for this, wooden linings are used, which also allow you to adjust the installation according to the level, thus removing the errors of an uneven screed.

Laying thermal insulation

Laying wooden floors in the garage requires additional thermal insulation. This procedure is not mandatory, but if you plan to carry out Maintenance and in the cold season, it is better to provide it in order to preserve heat.

For laying thermal insulation, mineral wool or expanded clay is used. The material is placed in free space between the lags.

When using mineral wool, try to lay the mats as tightly as possible, avoiding free space. When using expanded clay, pour it into the free space, level and compact the layer as much as possible.

For your information. To achieve the maximum effect of thermal insulation, you can additionally lay a layer of transparent film on top of the insulation and fix it on wooden joists. Also, the film will be required when using non-groove boards.

Laying the finishing flooring from the boards

The final step is to lay the tongue-and-groove boards, as shown in the figure above. There is nothing complicated in this process, the main thing is to observe the density of the seams, which can additionally be treated with silicone for tightness.

Start laying from the far corner, and lay the boards in such a way that the end joint of the boards of the first row does not coincide with the joints of the next, that is, carry out the installation in a checkerboard pattern.

Floor surface treatment

At the end of the laying of the boards, you can begin to process them. Before treating the wooden floor in the garage with varnishes or paints, it must first be cleaned of dust and dirt, treated with antiseptic and other impregnations.

Only then can you apply protective varnishes or paint the floor with special paints and varnishes for wooden surface. Additionally, you can lay a rubberized coating on the places where the floor comes into contact with the wheels, this will significantly increase the life of the wood.

From the material we have proposed, you learned how to make a wooden floor in the garage correctly, you can use the article as a step-by-step instruction for action, and to consolidate the knowledge gained, we suggest watching a video that describes some of the stages of work.

Some box owners don't pay much attention to garage flooring, preferring to leave hard-packed soil or clay. This approach will eliminate the hassle associated with the arrangement of the coating and its repair. However, the earthen floor is not particularly durable, therefore, under the influence of constant loads, it is easily deformed. It also absorbs gasoline and other substances, the smell of which is very difficult to remove from the box.

The best option for a garage is a concrete or wood floor. Such coatings are characterized by high mechanical strength, wear resistance and attractive appearance. Let's take a closer look at the creation of wooden floors, as they look more interesting and have the ability to retain heat, in contrast to the concrete surface, which almost always remains cold.

Before proceeding directly to the arrangement of the flooring, it is necessary to choose the right wood to create it. Definitely worth abandoning the idea of ​​​​using mahogany and walnut in boxing. Good option - conifers which are distinguished by excellent strength and wear resistance. But it is best to opt for oak, as an oak floor will last much longer than other wood floors.

When choosing a material, you must follow a few simple rules.

Before arranging the floor, wood must be treated with flame retardants - means to increase the fire resistance of the material, as well as substances that prevent the occurrence of putrefactive processes.

Flame retardants increase the fire resistance of wood

Garage wood floor installation

As a rule, floor structures on logs are installed in car boxes, which allow you to evenly distribute the load throughout the flooring. With the help of floors on logs, you can hide some defects in the base, as well as communication systems, for example electrical cable. However, this design "raises" the floor by 6-10 cm, so it is not entirely suitable for very low garages. The technology for installing a wooden floor in a garage depends on the existing base, which can be concrete or earth.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not need preliminary preparation, so you can immediately proceed directly to the installation of a wooden floor. Experts give several basic recommendations for this process:

• only material with a moisture content of no more than 10% can be laid;
• installation of the log is carried out with a certain step distance, which often varies from 40 to 50 cm;
• first on concrete base beacon logs are mounted, the step between which is approximately 2 m;
• fixing the lag is carried out with the help of dowels, the distance between them is 50 cm;
• intermediate logs are laid in the same way as lighthouse ones. Only after their installation proceed to laying the flooring.
• floor boards are placed perpendicular to the joists and fixed with screws or nails.

In fact, in the presence of a concrete base, it is not at all necessary to opt for a lag structure. If the subfloor does not differ in serious differences in height and does not have large-scale defects, then thick floorboards are quite suitable for arranging the coating. Before starting the installation, the blocks are treated with drying oil and painted, after which they are laid on a clean concrete base. Laying is carried out along the entire length of the garage, boards are fixed with screws or nails.

With the installation of a wooden floor on a concrete base in the garage, even a person without vocational training, the main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and adhere to technology.

Installing a wooden floor on a subgrade

If the base in the garage is not concrete, but is ordinary soil, then the installation of a wooden floor becomes somewhat more complex process, which will require patience and some skill. In this case, it is necessary to prepare the base, and the laying itself will be carried out in several stages:

1. The soil surface is leveled, for this you can use a rake, as well as an ordinary garden hoe.
2. A sand and gravel cushion is created: first there is a 3-4 cm layer of sand, then a gravel or expanded clay layer of the same thickness. In principle, the second layer can be somewhat thicker, since it is created from materials whose fraction is many times larger than the size of sand grains.
3. The laid sand and gravel cushion is watered and then well compacted. You can do this with your hands and feet, although it will be much more effective to use a specialized device - an electric rammer (or a vibrating plate, a manual roller, a manual rammer).
4. Lags are mounted, which are wooden bars holding the entire floor structure. Since the base is not durable and easily deformed, the logs are installed on pre-laid flat boards, and they must be thick enough so as not to bend during operation.

   Bases for laying logs on the ground (pits for posts, if necessary, are dug out before crushed stone and sand are backfilled)

All wood used should be impregnated with special compounds to give the material better moisture resistance, because the fact that it is not resistant to moisture and is subject to putrefactive processes is no secret to anyone. It is better not to neglect this recommendation!

As a support for the future floor, it is not at all necessary to use only boards, they can be replaced with brick or concrete pillars - they will do the job perfectly. Such supports are mounted in rows, the distance between which is 80 cm. The step between the posts themselves should be 30 cm.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Logs on the ground

Among other subtleties of installing a wooden floor on a soil base in a garage, the following points can be distinguished:

• it is desirable to have the logs perpendicular to the movement of the vehicle, and the floor boards themselves - in the direction of movement. Compliance with this rule will help make the structure more durable, and the floor will become much stronger;
• floor boards should have the same thickness - about 50-60 cm. You should not take thinner blocks, otherwise the floor will simply sag under the weight of the car and quickly fail;
• before installation, the boards must be dried and coated with antifungal agents. Their reverse side, which will be in contact with the sand and gravel cushion, must be treated with waterproofing compounds.

After arranging a wooden floor, many garage owners leave it in its original form, which is very in vain, because wood is a material that needs to be treated with care. The floor should be covered with drying oil and painted, because this is the only way to protect the flooring from oil and gasoline stains, which are almost impossible to remove.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 1

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 2

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 3

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 4

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 5

Chipboard and plywood floor in the garage

There is another way to create a wooden floor in the garage, which involves the use of plywood or chipboard. These materials will serve as the basis for the leveling layer, the thicker it turns out, the larger the logs will be laid. Having finished with the installation of beacons, you can proceed to install the log, fixing them on the base with glue or self-tapping screws.

In places of fixation, plywood pieces treated with glue are placed. On top of the resulting grid is laid sheet material that levels the floor. It is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws, about 9 pieces come out on 1 sheet. A moisture-proof film is laid on the leveling layer, and then insulation boards. All this is covered with floor boards. Thus, the floor in the garage becomes perfectly flat and very durable.

Making the decision to create wood flooring in your car box is not a barrier to furnishing. viewing hole. You can organize it in several stages:

1. A pit of the required depth is created, the bottom of which is laid out with flat bricks placed perpendicular to the wall surfaces.
2. The walls of the inspection pit are lined with brick, which is located with a rib.
3. space between brickwork and the soil is filled with concrete mix, this is done as the height of the walls grows.
4. Brick laying is carried out until it reaches the level of the lag. Thus, the chopping blocks will partially lie on the masonry. In the remaining space, a frame is mounted into which the boards covering the pit are placed.

   Metal corner laid on the walls of the inspection pit

Arranging a viewing hole in a garage with a wooden floor is quite simple, you just need to make a little effort and follow the recommendations received.

Video - Inspection pit in a garage with a wooden floor

Features of the wooden floor in the garage

The wooden floor in the garage is an environmentally friendly coating that, when correct installation and care will please the owner of the box for more than one year. However, the decision to create a wood floor in the garage cannot be called unambiguously correct, at least, some motorists think so, who are categorically against the use of this material. An analysis of the pros and cons of this coverage will help you make the right decision.

The advantages of choosing wood for flooring in the garage include the following factors:

• wood has a long service life, especially after impregnation with protective agents. Wooden floors can serve for about 10 years without deforming or collapsing;
• if part of the coating has been damaged, then it can be relatively easily replaced without dismantling the entire flooring;
• wood is hygroscopic, that is, it absorbs moisture from the air, which helps to maintain optimal humidity in the garage, and this has a positive effect on the condition of the vehicle;
• wooden floor, unlike concrete pavement, retains heat well, so working on it is safer for health. Wood as a flooring is often chosen by people who repair their cars on their own;
• in terms of strength, a thick floorboard is not inferior to concrete screeds, therefore it can be used even in boxes for small trucks;
• dust forms on the concrete floor, with a wooden coating this problem will not arise.

Wooden floors in the garage also have their drawbacks, which include the ability to absorb odors, susceptibility to putrefactive processes, and low fire resistance. However, all these disadvantages can be easily offset by the use of special impregnations that make the performance of wood much better.

Wooden floor after painting

Summing up, it should be noted that the wooden flooring in the garage is a rather controversial solution, which has its own advantages and disadvantages. To give preference to it or not depends on the needs of the car owner. If he often has to work in boxing, then it is better to opt for wood than to risk health, lying on a cold concrete screed. And to preserve the appearance of the coating, you can use special rubber sheets or ruberoid strips, along which the car will drive in and out.

We make a wooden floor in the garage: installation secrets from professionals

If you decide to equip the floor in the garage. then there are several options to do it yourself. The most popular of them are wooden and concrete floors. There is a lot of disagreement among motorists about which option is better to use.

In this article, we will tell you how to make a wooden floor in the garage and how it is better than concrete.

Metal garage with wooden floor

Features of a wooden floor

The first half of the people consider the wooden floor for the garage to be the best option, and the second part, on the contrary, is categorically against the use of this material.

If you decide to make such a coating, you should familiarize yourself with its pros and cons:

• Wood has good durability, especially if treated with impregnation. For many, it has been lying for decades, without the appearance of signs of rot.
• It is easy to redo and update the entire coating, in case of damage.
• A big plus is the ability of wood to absorb moisture from the air, so the car body will remain intact longer and will not rust.
• It is safer to work on a wooden deck for health, unlike cold concrete. Therefore, this option is often chosen if you plan to carry out car repairs yourself.
• In terms of strength when using a thick floorboard and timber, a wooden floor is not inferior to a concrete screed, you can even use it for small trucks.
• Ease of installation, it is much easier to find good workers than to fill the screed, which can crack if the technology is violated.
• Unlike concrete, wood does not generate dust.

The disadvantages of the tree include:

• Absorption of odors from automotive oils, this is especially felt when the heating is turned on.
• Susceptibility to rot, attack by rats and micro-organisms.
• Wood itself is a flammable material, and after soaking it with flammable liquids, it will become even less safe. Therefore, it will not be possible to use welding in the garage.

Installation of wooden floors in the garage

We will tell you how to make wooden floors in the garage using the example of installation on the ground. To do this, you need to use the floor technology on the ground. It is shown in the diagram.

Floor on the ground on logs

Installation of posts

Single and double plank floor construction

• To do this, you first need to remove fertile layer soil from the inside of the foundation and make preparations from a sand-gravel mixture and clay. Thoroughly compact the bulk layer.
• The edges of the beams will rest on the sides of the foundation, and posts will be made between them.
• To install the posts, dig holes for them 40 * 40 cm, with a depth equal to the depth of the main foundation.
• The first row from the wall must be set with an indent of 50 cm, and the distance between the remaining supports should be no more than 100 cm. The distance between the beams is 50-60 cm.
• At the bottom of each hole, pour a layer of coarse gravel 15-20 cm.
• Fill the hole with concrete with a fine fraction of gravel to ground level.
• When the concrete hardens, lay the columns of red bricks (2-3 rows will be enough). They will become the basis for laying the beams, try to make them as uniform as possible in height.

An example of finished columns

• Between concrete and brick and on top of the supports, be sure to lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material.
• We cover the remaining open clay with waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing material. Although there will be no water, the humidity from the ground will become high.

Advice! Calculate the position of the posts so that they are under the wheels of the car during its parking and arrival. Also in these places, use stronger beams if possible and increase the number of supports.

Also, instead of brick columns for props, you can use homemade filler piles.

The technology of their manufacture is very simple:

• With a 200 mm hand drill, pits of the desired depth are made.
• A pipe is rolled up from the roofing material in several layers inside the hole.
• Reinforcement is inserted into the inside with a triangle and poured with concrete according to the level.

Installation of beams

Since the load from the car on the floor in the garage will be high, it is better to use beams for beams. thick timber 150-200 mm, or sleepers.

They need to be laid with an edge to increase rigidity.

• Logs are installed perpendicular to the entrance, and the flooring, on the contrary, along the movement.
• It is necessary to fix them steadily exactly in level. If necessary, you can make underlays in order to correct the slope of the floor.
• Do not forget to keep a gap between the log and the wall of 2-3 cm.
• From the edges for the beams there must be supports of at least 10 cm (grillage, plinth or posts).
• Installation can be done both directly and with preliminary piping around the perimeter.
• Under the beams, you need to leave free space for free air circulation.

Ladder storage space

Warming

Laying insulation on waterproofing

• If necessary, insulate the garage, first a subfloor is laid on the beams.
• The next layer is waterproofing made of polyethylene film.
• As a heater, you can use almost any backfill, sheet or roll material. The most effective and popular among them are extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
• From above, the insulation is covered with waterproofing and sheathed along the logs with a floorboard (finishing floor).

Laying the floorboard

Do-it-yourself wooden floors in the garage are best made from a 50 mm thick floorboard. A medium-sized garage will require approximately 1-1.3 cubes of wood, and the price of each cube is 7,000 rubles, which means that you will spend about 7-9 thousand rubles on flooring. When buying boards, it is important to take only dry wood, otherwise, after laying, large gaps will appear in the floor, and it may be deformed.

Advice! To make cleaning the floor easier and increase durability, place roofing felt strips or rubber bands under the wheels of the car.

Prefabricated rubber mat for wheels

viewing hole

V wooden floor you can also organize a viewing hole for the car.

Instructions for its construction:

• Dig a pit of the required depth and lay a brick rectangle on its bottom (laid flat, perpendicular to the future walls).
• Then you need to lay out the walls of the viewing hole from silicate brick laid with an edge.
• The void obtained after laying the walls between the bricks and the ground as the height grows must be filled with concrete.
• When the masonry is above ground level, you can continue to lay the brick on the masonry. Thus, it is necessary to bring the height of the masonry to the level of the lag.
• The floor boards will partially rest on the masonry, and the frame from the corner with the shelf inward is laid on the remaining part (see photo below). Boards will be laid in it to close the pit.

Inspection hole in the wooden floor

Plank flooring on concrete floor

If you already have a concrete base in the garage, and you have not yet decided how to cover the cold floor, then you can lay plank flooring on it. It will be much warmer and more comfortable to work on a tree even in winter.

In this case, it is advisable to leave ladders under the wheels of the car with a width of 40-50 cm, and cover the rest with wood.

Before laying the boards, you need to put waterproofing from roofing material. Additionally, it is recommended to treat the boards with impregnations. .

The boards are laid along the entire length of the garage and fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws for reliability.

It is not necessary to lay all the boards close, if there are gaps up to 5 mm, it's okay, they are even sometimes made on purpose. This will make it easier to clean, but if you drop something small, it will be difficult to get it out of the gap.

Conclusion

Wooden flooring in the garage remains a rather controversial solution, which has its pros and cons. Choosing it depends on your needs. If you need to often work in the garage, then it is better to choose this option so as not to spoil your health while lying on cold concrete.

More information about the installation of a wooden floor in the garage is shown in this article:

http://shkolapola.ru

Dampness, temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity levels, the aggressive effects of spilled fuels and lubricants and other features of the operation of a garage room can cause a lot of trouble for the car owner. Therefore, when registering a car in a garage, the installation of flooring must be added to the list of priority tasks. Evaluate the specifics of the operation of the premises and choose desired material a fascinating acquaintance with the types of technical flooring and their characteristics will help. And if you are going to do the laying of the garage floor with your own hands, it does not hurt to stock up on working tools and free time in advance.

How to choose a floor in the garage?

In the garage, the car owner has to not only store his four-wheeled assistant, but also take care of him. To do this, a comfortable microclimate is needed in the room, which can be created by insulating the garage structure and performing interior decoration. The arrangement of the garage should begin with the flooring. Due to the specifics of the premises, the garage floor must meet the following requirements:

• mechanical strength;
• constructive reliability;
• fire safety;
• moisture resistance;
• resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• durability.

The floor in the garage can be made from various materials. Each of them has its pros and cons, which must be taken into account not only when choosing a coating, but also during the operation of the premises.

Most wide application received the following options for arranging the garage floor:

• earth flooring;

Such a floor is not able to protect the room from cold and dampness. In addition, earthen flooring is unable to withstand either moisture or intense loads when putting a car in and out of the garage. But this is the easiest and cheapest way to arrange the floor - all you need is to level and tamp the ground inside the garage perimeter.

• gravel pad;

The gravel-sand cushion is an improved type of open floor. Such a coating is not distinguished by either ease of use or durability, however, it copes well with high humidity and fuel leaks. In addition, such a floor covering will be inexpensive, and it is easy to install it alone.

• concrete;

Concrete flooring is the most practical and durable option for a garage space. With proper pouring and proper finishing, the screed will last for decades without being subject to wear and contamination. On the other hand, pouring concrete is a rather time-consuming, and besides, quite an expensive task, the solution of which requires a certain qualification.

• wooden flooring;

Wooden floors in garages are installed quite often, although wood does not have the same strength and durability as concrete. Moreover, unlike the latter, it is flammable material, which in addition is of interest to pests. At the same time, laying a wooden flooring takes much less money, effort and time than pouring a concrete screed, and when proper care during operation, such a floor will quietly serve for at least a dozen years, without causing any trouble to the owner of the garage.

• ceramic tiles and stone.

Ceramic tiles and stone have high decorative qualities. They are perfectly protected from chemical contamination and are not inferior to concrete in terms of wear resistance and mechanical strength. The service life of a ceramic floor is 25–30 years, and that of a stone floor is 35–40. The disadvantages of ceramic and stone coatings include an impressive cost, as well as the fact that in the process of laying both tiles and stone require considerable skill and patience.

Please note: It is wise to make improvements to the interior of the garage gradually. For example, to begin with, an earthen floor can be waterproofed with a thick layer of greasy clay and eventually covered with a gravel-sand cushion. If necessary, on such a floor it will be easy to install a crate for sheathing it with wooden flooring or pour it with a reinforced concrete screed for subsequent tiling.

Do-it-yourself calculation and pouring of a concrete base

Arrangement of a garage floor made of concrete is carried out in several steps:

1. Calculation of concrete screed.
2. Collection of tools and purchase of material.
3. Preparatory work.
4. Pouring concrete.
5. Leveling and dedusting the floor surface.

Good to know: After final leveling and dedusting, it is advisable to cover the concrete floor with special paint or sealant. This will protect the material from contact with water and aggressive chemical components, and also significantly slow down the mechanical destruction of the coating.

Calculation of concrete screed

Reinforced concrete used in the construction of foundations and screeds has a multilayer structure. In the garage, such a floor covering should be installed on a compacted and waterproofed earthen pad.

The composition of the "pie" of the concrete screed includes:

• sand (gravel-sand) pillow;
• draft concrete;
• steam insulation;
• waterproofing pad;
• reinforced screed.

• take 20 cm of height for a reinforced screed crowning the "pie";
• provide for the laying of reinforced concrete on an insulating gasket with a thickness of about 5 cm;
• take at least 15 cm to the layer of rough concrete;
• allocate at least 10 cm to the gravel-sand cushion laid at the bottom of the pit;

Now you can calculate the thickness of the screed. It will be equal to:

H = h sand.grav. + h black concrete + h steam.teplo.gidroizol + h arm \u003d 10 + 15 + 5 + 20 \u003d 60 cm

If the zero mark is set, it is necessary to lower the level of the earthen deck to the depth required by the project, i.e. lower it to the thickness of the concrete screed under construction.

The earthen bottom of the pit and the gravel-sand cushion under the rough concrete should be carefully tamped. To solve this problem, you need a vibrating plate - a powerful tool that can provide the highest quality compaction of the earthen deck and cushion. As a result, the risk of screed failure due to seasonal movement of soil layers or sudden rise in groundwater will be minimized.

In preparation for the main work, it is necessary from time to time to check the set marks with a laser level.

To fix the level set by the level, a construction marker and a paint cord are used. With a marker, it is necessary to put clear marks indicating the boundaries of the concrete layers, and then tie them together using a masking cord.

Please note: When calculating a concrete screed, it is necessary to provide for a slight slope of the floor plane (up to 2 cm) towards sewer communications or drainage system. This will ensure spontaneous removal of liquids from the floor surface.

Tools for laying concrete floor in the garage

To pour a concrete screed in the garage, you need to thoroughly prepare. It is necessary to collect in advance all the tools that will be needed in the process of work, and stock up on building materials in sufficient volume to complete the construction.

As for the list of tools, it should include:

• concrete mixer;
• vibrating plate;
• welding machine;
• circular saw with discs for cutting metal;
• scrap, shovels and bayonet shovels, as well as metal buckets or other containers;
• a wheelbarrow for transporting sand, gravel and concrete;
• hydraulic level;
• laser level;
• paint cord;
• rule;
• concrete grinder;
• drill with mixer nozzle;
• plaster spatula, trowel and trowel;
• construction tape measure;
• wooden trowel for concrete grouting.

Calculation of building materials

Sand, cement and gravel are the main components of a concrete mix. The volume of the latter, necessary for pouring the screed in the garage, is calculated by multiplying the internal area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by the height of the "pie" of concrete. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the shrinkage coefficient of the material, as well as the volume of the insulating gasket and the reinforcing frame. Another 10% of the stock is added to the obtained value, after which, using the table of proportions of the concrete components, it is necessary to calculate the amount of sand and gravel required to prepare the solution.

In practice, for pouring concrete floors in technical rooms standard cement grade M400 or M500 is used. Reference literature says that the average consumption of dry cement per unit volume of M150 or M200 concrete mix is ​​400–410 kg / m3. Knowing this figure, as well as the proportions of the solution given in the already familiar table, you can perform a quick and exact calculation any of the components of the concrete floor screed in the garage.

Please note: In garages located on the terrain with high level groundwater, on steep slopes or areas where there is a risk of soil shifts or flooding, it is not rational to pour a concrete screed. The floor in such rooms can be made of wooden boards on a pre-installed supporting frame.

Preparation for work

In order to fill the concrete floor in the garage quickly and, most importantly, without difficulties and errors, you should make calculations of building materials and carefully consider the algorithm of actions. On the initial stage construction, the primary task is to prepare the pit for laying an insulating cushion and pouring rough concrete.

As part of the preparation of the garage for pouring a concrete reinforced floor screed, the following is required:

1. Ensure high-quality tamping of earthen flooring and bring it to a single level.
2. Lay the bottom of the pit with a dense layer of greasy clay to improve the quality of hydro and thermal insulation.
3. Cover the bottom of the pit with a gravel-sand cushion.
4. Prepare steam and waterproofing materials.
5. Install horizontal beacons to indicate the plane of the rough concrete.

For the preparation of the main material - concrete mix - cement, sand and crushed stone are needed. The list of related materials must include:

Good to know: You can improve the hydro- and thermal insulation qualities of a gravel-sand cushion with the help of greasy clay, with a dense layer of which you need to lay the bottom of the pit, not forgetting about thorough tamping. When laying a mixture of sand and gravel, it is recommended to moisten it with plenty of water. This will ensure the sealing of the insulating pad, which will positively affect the quality of the thermal and vapor barrier of the garage floor.

Pouring concrete and laying the insulating layer

If the earthen flooring in the garage is rammed and laid with a pillow, you can start pouring rough concrete along the lighthouses. This problem is solved as follows:

1. A polyethylene film is laid on a gravel-sand cushion with a margin of 5% of the floor area. This is necessary for waterproofing the concrete base of the screed.
2. Concrete mixture is being prepared on a concrete mixer. The proportions of the main components (cement, sand and gravel or crushed stone) for a rough screed is approximately 1:3.5:5.6.
3. Concrete is poured into the pit and neatly aligned with the lighthouses.
4. The dried (2 days after pouring) rough screed is primed and laid with a layer of roofing material.
5. A reinforcing mesh with beacons is installed for the top layer of the screed.
6. On a concrete mixer, a mixture for a reinforced screed is prepared in a ratio of 1: 3.5 (cement + sand), which must be evenly poured over the waterproofing and leveled along the beacons.
7. After pouring, the concrete must be moistened with water every 10-12 hours. This will ensure uniform drying of the solution and prevent cracking. The dried reinforced screed must be primed and covered with a thin (not more than 0.5 cm) layer of cement mortar.

Important to remember: The screed is poured in one go. Start from the highest point. Concrete is leveled using the rule in the direction from the far wall of the room. Upon completion of pouring and leveling the concrete, it must be covered with plastic wrap for several hours. After setting the solution after 0.5 hours from the moment of pouring, it is necessary to grout the surface with a wooden bevel.

How to dust, level and finish

After pouring the reinforced concrete screed, the front surface of the latter needs to be leveled. But first it must be carefully examined for cracks, chips and other defects in order to assess the amount of work to be done.

alignment

The surface of a concrete floor can be leveled in one of the following ways:

1. Puttying.
2. Grinding.
3. Milling.
4. Self-flowing fill.

Puttying of concrete is carried out with a polymer-based composition with the addition of quartz sand. This method allows you to get rid of only minor surface defects, while to eliminate irregularities up to 5 mm deep, you will need a mosaic grinder. Unfortunately, this technique cannot cope with depressions and wave transitions with a depth of 2-3 cm, so large defects are eliminated by milling.

The least time-consuming, but at the same time the most expensive way to level the concrete floor in the garage is to fill it with a self-spreading compound. At the same time, if the thickness of the finish layer exceeds 15 mm, it is recommended to use a polymer-cement screed, while with a leveling thickness of not more than 8 mm, you can get by with cheaper polymerized sand concrete.

In the presence of critical surface defects and significant height differences, it is necessary to perform an additional screed 1-8 cm thick, which will not only level, but also strengthen upper layer reinforced concrete. This is done in several stages:

Good to know: The leveling screed mix is ​​prepared in small batches. During the filling process, air bubbles, large lumps and random debris are removed using a metal rake or a shaft with a needle nozzle.

Dedusting concrete screed

Untreated concrete is characterized by intense dust formation, since due to the accumulation of hardened cement laitance on the surface, the mechanical strength of the floor is significantly reduced.

If, when pouring the screed in the car garage, dedusting is not performed, this will lead to:

• an increase in the intensity and deepening of concrete erosion;
• constant pollution and dusting of the garage;
• the manifestation of squeaks and crunch when moving on the floor covering;
• dust ingress into moving and rubbing components of equipment and machinery operating in the garage;
• reducing the comfort of staying in the garage and the danger to the health of the car owner.

Dedusting the surface of a concrete screed involves the use of reinforcing mineral or polymer impregnations. As for the former, the most common option is compositions based on sodium silicate or lithium polysilicate.

When interacting with calcium compounds on the concrete surface, they form a vitreous structure, which not only protects the screed from destruction, but also provides it with additional strength. The disadvantages of mineral dedusting include:

• duration of flow chemical processes(from several weeks to several months);
• the risk of reverse alkaline - silicate reactions;
• the complexity of applying the composition;
• the need for thorough washing of the screed after absorption.

The most practical, but also very expensive means of mineral dedusting is lithium polysilicate. Its absorption occurs within 10-14 days, after which the screed does not need to be washed and re-treated throughout the entire period of floor operation.

Organic (polymer) dedusters include impregnations of the following types:

• acrylic (used for processing screeds with standard strength requirements);
• polyurethane (strengthens concrete, providing high water-repellent properties and inertness of the material to the effects of chemicals);
• epoxy (used in rooms with restrictions on the use of compounds with a pungent odor).

Dedusting the concrete floor screed in the garage is carried out in three stages:

When processing the screed, the dedusting composition is applied in bulk and evenly distributed over the surface with a brush or doctor blade.

Good to know: When using silicate impregnations, the absorption process takes about 40-60 minutes. During this time, the remaining impregnation becomes viscous, so before re-applying it must be diluted with water. After 20-30 minutes after the end of the treatment, the impregnation must be removed with a rubber doctor blade.

Finishing

In addition to dust-removing impregnation, the screed can be coated with water-repellent paint, pre-primed. Staining will eliminate the contact of the floor with moisture and aggressive chemicals, as well as prevent mechanical damage and premature wear of concrete.

With a high intensity of operational loads, it is advisable to protect the screed from cracking and destruction by cutting expansion joints. The latter can perform the function:

• isolation of the floor from the structural elements of the building in order to dampen vibrations and chemical interaction of materials;
• insulation of concrete monoliths laid at different times;
• stress relief during uneven drying and shrinkage of concrete.

Good to know: Cutting of seams is carried out after the screed has dried, followed by their strengthening and sealing.

Video: Pouring a concrete screed in the garage with your own hands

Do-it-yourself wood flooring

Despite the shortcomings of wood as a building material, it is widely used for laying floor coverings, including in garages. A floor made of this material absorbs moisture from the air well, thanks to which the metal components of the car receive additional protection against rust. In addition, the wooden coating is absolutely safe and much more comfortable to work in the garage than concrete. And, unlike the latter, wood does not create any dust, and if necessary, allows you to quickly repair or replace worn or damaged elements of the garage floor.

The choice of installation method for wood flooring depends on the type of subfloor in the room. If a rough concrete screed is poured in the garage, the floor sheathing is done with a thick (from 5 cm) edged board.

The latter is laid on transverse logs of a small section (50 * 50 mm), resting directly on the waterproofing cushion or the walls of the room. Fixation of wooden structural elements is carried out with nails, self-tapping screws or anchors. In the event that an earth embankment, clay or gravel-sand cushion lies at the base of the garage, the wooden floor structure will have to be provided with thick transverse logs (beams) supported by the walls or foundation of the room.

Another option for arranging plank flooring in the garage involves the installation of load-bearing posts on an earthen or concrete base, on which the frame of the structure will rest.

Good to know: Before laying the wooden floor, the earthen base in the garage can be poured with rough concrete. However, this option is significantly costly and very time consuming, so it is rarely used in practice. In most cases, a compacted sand and gravel pad is used as a substrate for wooden decking.

What materials for the construction of a wooden floor to choose

If you plan to install wood flooring in the garage, the first thing to do is to choose the right material. most advantageous in financial plan softwood is an option. Possessing a relatively low cost, it resists wear well, is of little interest to pests, and has high mechanical strength. In the same time conifer tree it is prone to cracking, and its knotty and resinous nature indicate certain difficulties in processing.

When choosing a tree for laying the floor in the garage, you should be guided by the following principles:

1. The material must have optimal humidity. A tree that is too dry will not cope with intense mechanical stress, and an excessively wet tree will deform over time.
2. Boards and load-bearing logs with pronounced defects - cracks, knots, splits or resin stains - are not worth buying even at a discount. Such material will cause a lot of trouble not only during processing, but also during the operation of the floor.
3. The material is bought with a 15% margin.
4. Floor boards must be at least 2 m long.
5. Board and timber, if possible, are taken from the same batch. This allows you to count on the same behavior of the wooden floor elements during operation.
6. You should buy polished boards, which will greatly simplify the task of preparing the tree for installation and operation of the floor in the garage.

Wooden floor coverings can be of single or double construction. The second option is advisable to use if it is necessary to insulate the floor, but this can also be done with a single boardwalk.

The optimal solution for arranging wooden flooring in a garage is a grooved spruce or pine board 36 mm thick and 20 cm wide or a relatively cheap, but less reliable edged board 40–50 mm thick.

The sheathing is mounted on a mounting plate, the functions of which will be performed by a bar with a section of 20 * 40 mm.

It is advisable to use dry beams with a section of 150 * 100 mm as load-bearing logs for a wooden floor.

The distance between them with the above thickness of the skin is recommended to be taken equal to 700 mm. Now, knowing the internal area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, it will not be difficult to calculate the amount of materials for laying a wooden floor.

Please note: When laying a wooden floor on logs on a soil base, the height of the structure should be taken into account. Together with hydro and vapor barrier, as well as mounting strips, it will be about 20 cm. You also need to remember that when the log is supported on the walls or foundation of the garage, at least 15 cm is added to the useful length of the beam from each end, by which it will be recessed into walls.

Tool and related materials

Before starting work on arranging a wooden floor in a garage, you should assemble the tools necessary to perform related operations. This list should include:

• building level or tubular hydraulic level;
• laser level;
• screwdriver;
• a hacksaw for wood and a jigsaw;
• carpenter's hammer;
• joiner's chisel;
• electric drill with a hammer function and a set of drills for metal and concrete;
• Screwdriver Set;
• nail puller;
• axe;
• measuring tape and pencil (marker);
• brushes for protective and finishing processing of wood;
• mounting stapler;
• construction knife.

In addition to the basic materials, before starting construction, you need to stock up:

• mounting means (self-tapping screws, screws, bolts or anchors);
• emery;
• building plaster;
• waterproofing gasket and vapor barrier;
• insulation (if necessary);
• means for protecting wood from pests, fire, dampness and decay;
• paints and varnishes for finishing the floor.

It is important to remember: If it is necessary to equip a rough concrete screed, you will need a tool for excavation and concrete preparation. The volume of the components of the latter is calculated based on the actual area of ​​the base floor and the required height of the concrete layer. Also, one should not forget about compacting the soil flooring and the gravel-sand substrate. They must be completed before the start of the main construction.

Proper frame assembly

Getting started, it is necessary to impregnate the wood with a flame retardant and an antiseptic composition. The processed material is placed in the garage. Here he will wait in the wings for several days until the moisture content of the wood stabilizes. But first, you should lower the level of the soil flooring to the mark required by the project, carefully compact it and cover it with a sand or gravel-sand cushion. In addition, supply and exhaust ventilation openings must be provided in the subfloor space. They are performed on longitudinal walls at opposite corners of the room, while the total exhaust ventilation output by a separate channel, the output of which is located under the ceiling.

The algorithm for laying a wooden floor on logs on a soil basis will be as follows:

1. The surface of the compacted cushion is laid with a layer of roofing material or polyethylene film to ensure waterproofing of the floor structure.
2. The ends of the transverse logs resting on the walls or the foundation of the garage are covered with waterproofing mastic or wrapped with roofing material, so that the tree will not be afraid of contact with concrete or brick.
3. First of all, load-bearing logs are installed - they are placed at opposite walls of the garage with a gap of up to 5 cm. To mount the beam in the masonry or foundation, recesses are made using a perforator or manually, the dimensions of which (area and sectional shape) must correspond to the parameters of the beam with lining. Also, taking into account the installation length of the end, an additional temperature gap should be provided in the niche.
4. Logs are mounted in prepared recesses with obligatory control of the horizontal level. The latter is adjusted using small wooden or plywood wedges covered with waterproofing mastic. Installation in progress anchor fastenings or with a quick-drying gypsum mortar.
5. Similarly, along the beacons installed on the walls of the garage and rope marks stretched between the extreme lags, the remaining crossbars are installed.

Please note: The transverse logs are laid perpendicular to the movement of the car, and the skin is parallel. Beacons indicating floor levels must be set before starting work. It is advisable to tighten the rope tags after mounting the extreme crossbars.

Floor sheathing

The finished frame of the floor covering is covered with a vapor barrier, which is attached to the logs using construction brackets.

It is also necessary to consider filling the voids under the skin. This is necessary for the thermal insulation of the floor, as well as equalizing the temperature and humidity under the floor and in the garage. The subfloor space can be filled directly during the installation process, for which materials such as expanded clay, sand, gravel-sand mixture or mineral wool are used. With a lack of free time and funds, the event can be planned for the near future, but always before the change of seasons.

Sheathing the floor covering is carried out in several steps:

Good to know: It is desirable to place the cladding elements in a checkerboard pattern, so that the floor structure will receive an additional margin of safety.

How to protect and treat a wooden base

At the end installation work it is necessary to once again treat the front surface of the boards with an antiseptic and impregnate with means of protection against pests and fire.

The skin must be completely dry, after which it must be covered with several layers of varnish or paint. Finishing will protect the front surface of the floor from moisture, exposure to aggressive chemicals, accumulation of condensate and mechanical wear.

Video: Self-laying a wooden garage floor

How and how to insulate the floor in the garage?

According to the requirements of SNiP 21-02-99 "Parking" in the car garage, it is recommended to maintain a temperature regime of +5 ° C and a stable level of humidity. Such conditions can be ensured with the help of high-quality ventilation (inflow of at least 180 cubic meters per hour), as well as insulation of the gates, walls, ceiling and floor, equipped in the garage room.

The main characteristics of the insulation and its types

The choice of insulation for flooring depends on the type, design features the latter and, of course, the local climate in which the garage is operated. In any case, thermal insulation must have such characteristics as:

1. Fire resistance.
2. Environmental Safety.
3. Low thermal conductivity.
4. Ease of storage, handling and styling.
5. Durability.
6. Resistance to wear, moisture and temperature extremes, as well as other aggressive operating factors, including the development of harmful microorganisms.

Modern thermal insulation materials fall into several categories:

• silicate (glass wool and its varieties, perlite);
• mineral (expanded clay, cement mortars with special additives, mineral wool);
• polymeric (polystyrene and its derivatives, polyurethane);
• chipboard (plywood, chipboard, sawdust and materials based on them).

Please note: To make the right decision on the thermal insulation of the garage floor, you must carefully study and compare the characteristics of heaters available on the market.

Properties of popular thermal insulation materials (expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.)

In practice, the most widely used types of thermal insulation are:

• expanded clay;

The main advantage of this material is its low cost. It has high mechanical strength and low thermal conductivity, copes well with humidity, temperature fluctuations and exposure to chemical reagents. At the same time, expanded clay has a significant disadvantage: the normal thickness of the insulating layer is at least 30 cm, which makes it impractical to use it in rooms with low ceiling. It is optimal to use material for warming concrete floors.

• Styrofoam;

A characteristic feature of this heater is its versatility. Polyfoam has low thermal conductivity, is not afraid of moisture and eliminates the possibility of mold development. With a relatively low price of the material, its use can significantly reduce the thickness of the thermal insulation pad. It is advisable to use polystyrene for insulating a concrete floor, but at the same time it is worth considering its shortcomings - low mechanical strength, fire hazard and inability to withstand the effects of chemical reagents.

• polystyrene concrete;

This material is a universal insulation that can be used as a substrate for both concrete and wooden floors. Its main advantages are high mechanical strength with a small thickness of the thermal insulation layer, as well as enviable resistance to moisture and sudden changes. temperature regime. Polystyrene concrete is inert to chemical reactions and is of no interest to fungal microorganisms. At the same time, it provides a perfectly flat surface of the thermal pad and is able to serve for more than one decade. Almost the only drawback of this insulation is the impressive cost.

• glass wool and mineral wool;

These are roll materials belonging to the budget category of heaters. They are universal in application, but are mainly used for thermal insulation of wooden floor coverings. Glass wool and mineral wool have high thermal insulation characteristics and have excellent steam conductivity. Meanwhile, they can cause a lot of inconvenience during installation, and during operation they can release harmful components into the atmosphere. As a result of this, and also because of the tendency of the material to absorb moisture, the insulating gasket needs to be equipped with a ventilation gap and reliable insulation from inner space garage.

• ecowool;

This material belongs to the class of loose insulation and can be used for thermal insulation of any type of floor coverings. Ecowool is characterized by high thermal insulation performance with a small thickness of the gasket. Meanwhile, this insulation does not tolerate contact with moisture and weakly resists the effects of temperature changes, therefore, it requires additional waterproofing. Most often, equata is used to insulate wooden floor coverings on a concrete base.

• penoizol;

This is a liquid thermal insulation material, which is a derivative of foam. Penoizol can be used to insulate any floor covering, including concrete and wood. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, is not afraid of moisture or temperature changes and passes air well, which contributes to the formation of a comfortable microclimate in the room. The disadvantage of penoizol is poor wear resistance, flammability and a very high price.

• thermal insulation foil.

This material is supplied in rolls or in the form of solid boards, including with a layer of foam or mineral wool. Its main feature is the ability to reflect heat from one side of the thermal insulation pad and prevent its leakage from the other. Foil insulation is impervious to moisture, indifferent to sudden temperature changes and does not contribute to the development of fungal colonies. The main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. But it is equally convenient for thermal insulation of both concrete and wooden floor coverings.

When choosing a heater for the floor in a garage, the main attention should be paid to four criteria: the thermal conductivity index, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the durability of the material and its cost. The ratio of these characteristics should be optimal for a particular garage space and match the budget of its owner.

Self-insulating concrete floor

Insulation of concrete flooring in the garage can be performed in several stages, corresponding to the stages of construction of the latter:

1. Before pouring rough concrete.
2. For waterproofing the concrete base before laying the top reinforced concrete layer.
3. On a rough concrete screed with the subsequent installation of a raised floor, including a plank one.

Consider the algorithm for warming a concrete floor at the stage of preparation for pouring a reinforced floor screed. In this case, the best thermal insulation option would be foam plastic with a thickness of 10 cm and a density of 30 kg / m. Warming is carried out in the following order:

Good to know: To improve the quality of thermal insulation when laying foam sheets, the seams between them are sealed mounting foam. When laying the reinforcement mesh and fixing it with glue, it is necessary to control the horizontal level of the substrate surface. Finally, it is possible to increase the strength indicators of the finishing screed, poured over the selected substrate, by adding extruded polystyrene foam granules to the solution.

We warm the wooden floor with our own hands

Thermal insulation of wood flooring initial stage its construction is not a difficult task. It is carried out in the standard manner: after laying the sand cushion, a layer of waterproofing is installed, then transverse logs are mounted, then insulation and vapor barrier are laid, and, finally, the floor is sheathed with boards. In the event that it is necessary to thermally insulate the finished wooden floor, it will have to be partially or, more likely, completely disassembled.

The most commonly used material for insulating wooden flooring is mineral wool, supplied in the form of slabs or flexible mats. In combination with such thermal insulation, high-quality waterproofing should be used, as well as a vapor barrier. Otherwise, the insulation will actively absorb moisture, which will lead to decay of the wooden floor elements.

The method of warming a wooden floor covering with mineral wool is as follows:

Good to know: There are three types of mineral wool - slag, basalt (stone) and glass. Their cost varies significantly and largely depends on the type of material (roll, plate or flexible mat). For warming a wooden floor, a matte material based on basalt or slag is ideal. The upper plane of the mineral wool is marked, which is important to remember when laying.

Competent arrangement of flooring in the garage will create optimal conditions car storage and daily care. The choice of materials for the construction of the floor and its design depends on the operating conditions of the premises, as well as the dimensions and weight of the vehicle. Subject to the requirements for the preparation, installation, hydro- and vapor barrier, as well as the finishing of the floor covering, the latter will last as long as possible. long term without causing any trouble to the owner of the garage.

The garage serves not only to protect the iron horse from car thieves or weather conditions, but also acts as a kind of storage for “very necessary” things. One way or another, a lot of time is spent in it, in connection with this, motorists approach its arrangement with special care. The owners select material for the construction of walls and roofs based on two main criteria: taste preferences and the financial side of the issue. Unfortunately, less attention is paid to the organization of the floors. The article will discuss how to make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands.

Types of flooring

The most common types of floors are earthen and cement, less common are wooden flooring. The first two options are ideal if the room is used for intensive use for its intended purpose. The floor from the boards is relevant when vehicle operated in the warm season or on weekends.

Below is a brief description of the most popular types of material used for arranging the floor in the garage.

Concrete

• Such floors are made with strict adherence to technology, otherwise through a short time cracks will appear on the surface, which will lead it to complete disrepair. Well, if you follow all the rules, then such a floor will last at least 20 years.

• Among the disadvantages of the concrete base, one can note the low resistance to abrasive wear, which leads to the formation of dust. In addition, the spilled liquid penetrates deep into the pores and remains there forever. A polyurethane coating can act as a savior, but its cost annuls the affordability of a concrete floor.

Plates

• Ceramic or porcelain tiles are distinguished by both aesthetics and practicality. Their surface is simply unable to absorb liquid substances, and the top layer of glaze is easily washed off even without the use of special cleaning compounds.

• Porcelain stoneware is a rather expensive pleasure for arranging a garage. Preparation of the base, and the installation itself requires labor-intensive work. The material is recommended to be laid 2-3 years after the completion of the garage, that is, when the structure shrinks.
• The ceramic product also has a significant disadvantage - low resistance to mechanical shock. And, as you know, the fall of various pieces of iron, especially in such rooms, is not at all uncommon.

Wooden floor in the garage

• The lowest price for a wooden floor in the garage, in addition, such a floor is considered warm. Therefore, it is much more pleasant to repair a car or inspect it while lying on your back.

Wooden floor in the garage photo

• Of the minuses, high absorbent properties can be noted. Do not forget that the tree is classified according to its resistance to decay and is divided into fire hazard classes. But processing with modern protective equipment will extend the life of the flooring and protect it from the effects of fire.
• Of course, the floors can also be covered with special rubber tiles, which are certainly not afraid of any load. As already mentioned, the choice of coverage rests on material possibilities.

• In any case, if you do the flooring on your own, you can save quite a decent amount on the purchase of, for example, tools, spare parts for a car, hanging shelves or racks for storing various inventory.

How to make a wooden floor in a garage on an existing base

Installation of the material must be carried out on a solid foundation so that the work done and the investment made are not in vain.

Laying on a concrete base

• A flat surface with minor imperfections, such as surface cracks and chips, allows the floorboard to be mounted on top of it. Lumber is fastened with screws and plastic dowels or anchor bolts.
• If the floor has large irregularities, then it is recommended to fill in the screed, which will provide not only the same level on the entire surface, but also strengthen the base.

• Before work, make sure that the cement coating is completely dry. To do this, you do not need to have a special device at all. You can also determine the humidity using an improvised method; for this, a small square of plastic or a piece of film is hermetically attached to the surface with adhesive tape.
• After a few days, the material is removed, if a lot of large drops are found on the inside, then it is still impossible to lay the board. In this case, it is necessary to give the base more time to dry or take additional measures to reduce moisture. A slight condensate allows the planned work to be carried out.
• In any case, polyethylene or roofing material is first spread out, which will prevent moisture from entering the base base. Laying is carried out with spades on the walls and the width of the overlap of the material must be at least 10 cm. The seams are glued with adhesive tape or moisture-resistant mastic.

Laying on logs

• If the surface is relatively flat, then the boards can also be mounted on pre-installed logs. Here, bars of small section (50x50 or 40x50 mm) are fixed on a concrete base along the perimeter of the room. The same lumber is used as cross members. For more reliable fixation, the logs are attached to the bars using metal corners. They are installed parallel to the entrance / exit of the garage with a step of no more than 50 cm.

• Here it should be remembered that the level of the floor will rise by 70-80 mm, depending on the width of the selected lumber, for example, a 50 mm beam and a 25-30 mm floorboard. Thus, a difference is formed, a step between the floor and the entrance to the room.

Laying on a wooden surface

• Strengthening an existing plank floor by attaching new floorboards is possible only if there is full confidence that the structure can withstand severe loads. If there is even the slightest doubt, then the old coating must be dismantled.
• Here, the log and other wooden elements are inspected, the damaged parts of the frame are replaced. At capital works a layer of waterproofing material is laid. It is advisable to fill the space between the lags with expanded clay or dry sand, the floors will become warmer.

• The satisfactory condition of the old coating allows fastening the boards, but only in a perpendicular direction.

Wood processing

It will not be superfluous to mention that wooden elements need to be treated with protective agents. Preparations are selected individually, since some are responsible for the uniformity of shrinkage, reduce cracking, others guarantee protection against decay, and others prevent ignition.

It is worth noting that it is not advisable to purchase miraculous “5 in 1” solutions, since one remedy cannot simultaneously protect against all “misfortunes”. Therefore, when going to the store, it is better to have at least a basic knowledge of their classification, their purpose, and the best manufacturers.

Protective compounds are divided into 3 types:

• Lucky after drying, they form a transparent film, which has bioprotective properties, that is, it protects the surface from premature decay, damage by woodworms. Such coatings exclude cracking of the material and do not lose their original qualities under the influence of temperature changes.

• Paints not only give decorative appearance, but also protect the painted elements from the short-term influence of moisture (periodically formed condensate). For processing, it is better to select paint based on organic solvents.
• Antiseptics- these are multifunctional products that can protect wood from biodegradation (mold formation, the appearance and spread of house fungus). The combined version of antiseptics also has fire-fighting properties.

The lag is coated with water-repellent agents, which are characterized by a deeper degree of penetration, or antiseptic impregnations based on solvents, which form a thick protective film. Borate- and fluoride-based preparations are ideal.

You can use an oil analogue, only here you need to make sure that the lumber being processed is absolutely dry, otherwise the wet inside of the material will contribute to the development of fungal spores, which in turn will lead to its complete destruction.

Floorboards are treated with preparations that provide effective fire protection and contain copper hydroxide.

Top Producers

The top three included companies that produce the most effective means for protecting wooden surfaces:

• from domestic manufacturers "Wood healer", "Bioks", "Biosept";

• foreign brands represent - " TIKKURILA" (Finland), "Dulux" (England), "ALLICATOR" (Germany).

Folk recipes

Since ancient times, wood has played an important role in national culture, so people have always been concerned about how to protect buildings from the harmful effects of adverse conditions. Over such a long period of time, many effective methods have accumulated:

• silicate glue diluted with water, about 1 liter of water is taken 400 grams of glue;
• copper sulphate, also known for its bactericidal properties (100 grams of vitriol is diluted in 10 liters of water);
• boric acid is a popular "preservative". The solution is prepared as follows: 50 grams of boric acid and 1 kg of salt are taken for 5 liters of boiling water.

The device of a wooden floor in the garage from scratch

Do-it-yourself wooden flooring in a built garage can be done in a matter of hours, since logs are usually laid at the stage of foundation construction. But, if the construction was carried out in a lightweight version, then more time and effort will have to be applied.

• The zero level of the future floor is determined. As a rule, the "threshold" of the garage is taken as the basis. The soil is selected by about 50 cm, more accurate calculations are made as follows: 10-15 cm will “leave” on a sand cushion, 10-15 cm - a crushed stone layer, 10 cm - a section of a beam (lag) and the thickness of the floorboard is added 2.5- 3 cm
• Each layer is moistened and compacted. For this, it is not at all necessary to use special equipment. Suitable here homemade tool, where a square piece of board is attached to the end of the bar with a section of 50x50 mm with nails or screws, which will be used as a sole.

• Be sure to line waterproofing material with an overlap on the walls, slightly exceeding the zero mark. The joints of the material for sealing are glued with construction tape or smeared with mastic.
• All wooden elements are treated with antiseptic and fire retardant preparations.
• A beam of 100x100 mm is installed along the perimeter, such a section will help distribute the load of both the flooring itself and the weight of the car. In the corners, lumber is fastened with metal corners. The level checks the horizontal position, if necessary, trimmed plywood or boards are placed.

• Parallel to the entrance, lags are installed from the same beam. The distance between them is maintained within 50 cm, but no more. Fixation is carried out with self-tapping screws and L-shaped metal products.
• Expanded clay or dry sand can be poured into the formed cells.
• Floorboards are laid on top, located along the movement of the car. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws in two places to each lag.

Wooden floor in the garage step by step video

Material calculation

For arranging wooden flooring in the garage standard size 3x6 m, you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm - 32 m;
• metal corner - 32 pieces;
• floorboards 25x150x6000 mm - 20 pieces;
• wood screws 4.2x65 mm - 570 pieces or 2 kg.

• For a tighter and more reliable fit of the floorboards to the joists, it is recommended to drill holes for the hardware with a drill, the diameter of which is 0.5-1 mm larger than the thickness of the self-tapping screw. The same applies to corner metal fasteners.
• Before proceeding with flooring, strips of rolled roofing material should be glued to the edges on both sides of each board, or fixed with a construction stapler.

Compliance with all the rules and technology for arranging a wooden floor in a garage will allow you to repair your car in comfortable conditions, even in winter.