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In this article it will be about a long-known, but rarely used method of insulating brick walls for an unheated outbuilding for household purposes. This is a well masonry made of silicate bricks with the installation of insulation inside the walls, and I had a chance to apply this method in practice, in my own house.
The essence of the problem was as follows. In connection with the upcoming gasification of the house and strict requirements for the placement and installation of gas boiler equipment, it was necessary to make a brick annex to the house. the main problem was that the material used for the masonry had to be fireproof, and the walls themselves had to be warm enough.
It seemed to me burdensome and not relevant to install heating devices in a compact, and even a walk-through room. Therefore, I decided to place the main emphasis on the construction of warm walls. At the same time, since we are actually talking about an outbuilding (boiler room plus a canopy), it was not justified to use expensive materials and technologies for insulation. I will add that I did all this taking into account the requirements and recommendations applicable to my region of residence (Samara region), the documentation used is TSN 23-349-2003 OF THE SAMARA REGION, but, in fact, you can use my experience for the whole middle lane Russia. To be more strict and use the concept of "degree-day", then this approach is good for everyone settlements, where the value of the degree-day (D d) does not exceed the value of 6000. You can see it in SNiPs, TSNakh, reference books.
Choosing a wall structure
After reflections and preliminary estimates, I chose a well masonry made of silicate bricks with the installation of insulation inside the walls. Why?
1. The consumption of bricks is small, and, accordingly, the weight of the wall is small, that is, you can save both on the structure itself and on the foundation.
2. The construction of the wall with insulation placed inside the wall is non-combustible.
3. It is important, at least for me: in case of well masonry, the outer surface of the wall has a sufficiently high bearing capacity. Therefore, in case of incorrect calculations or other unforeseen problems, I would still have the opportunity (as a backup option) to additionally insulate the wall from the outside of the building.
Selection of thermal insulation materials
As insulation inside the wall, I decided to use inexpensive common insulation PSB-15 foam and expanded clay gravel. Why?
1. The main and fundamental disadvantage of the wall with the use of well masonry is that the thermal insulation is placed inside the wall. As a result, the dew point (condensation) will always be inside the wall. Therefore, when choosing heat-insulating materials (TIM) intended for installation inside the wall, it was necessary to use TIM, in which the thermal insulation and operational properties would suffer the least with possible moistening of the material. It was with this in mind that I chose polystyrene and expanded clay, and not wadded heaters.
2. Unlike the ventilated facade, which I wrote about in the previous article, it is virtually impossible to repair a wall with a well masonry, therefore, TIM, laid inside the wall, must have a service life comparable to the service life of the building.
3. Application and installation of polystyrene in a certain way, in addition to a noticeable general increase in the heat transfer resistance of the wall, in this case It is used for additional hydro-vapor insulation of expanded clay backfill from moisture, which a silicate brick can not only absorb into itself, but also transfer to the mating material.
These are briefly my criteria for choosing a wall structure and materials used. The main parameters of the resulting wall, taking into account the properties of the materials used, are as follows.
With a total thickness outer wall equal to 55 cm, composition insulating cake and the order of the layers of the wall structure, starting from the outer side of the annex, turned out to be as indicated in the table.
The actual resistance of the wall, taking into account the heterogeneity and the presence of cold bridges, of course, is less. Calculating it accurately without resorting to cumbersome calculations is difficult, and hardly advisable. Therefore, taking into account the fact that the area of heterogeneous inclusions (joints and expanded clay concrete diaphragms) does not exceed 10-15% of the total area of the wall structure, the resulting insulation resistance of the walls will be about 15% less, which will be about 3.6-3.7 m2 ° C / W.
The experience of operating the building for five years revealed the following. With average sub-zero temperatures on the street about - 20 gr. v winter period, the room temperature does not drop below +15 gr. due to the small heat input from the operating boiler and the introduction warm air from the living quarters through the door. With prolonged (more than a week) frost for - 30 gr. the temperature dropped to + (8 - 10) degrees. In both cases, the permissible operating conditions of the boiler equipment are maintained.
Technology and features of work performance
Since there are many articles on the Internet devoted to the arrangement of well masonry, I only focus on specific features and nuances. The first three bottom rows brickwork the walls of the building are lined with solid bricks, the thickness of the masonry is two bricks. This must be done in order to create a power belt along the perimeter of the building for the subsequent arrangement of the well masonry. Similarly, top part the well masonry is completed by laying a power belt made of solid bricks in three rows.
For several reasons, I used well masonry without an air gap. In this regard, some additional measures had to be taken. In particular, in order to protect expanded clay gravel from moisture inflow from the outside, between brick walls and expanded clay backfill, I installed foam sheets: from the outside - 50 mm thick, with inside- 30 mm thick.
Comment. Strictly speaking, foam is not a hydro-vapor barrier material. Therefore, in this case, the foam is used taking into account its parameters and properties as auxiliary material in terms of hydro-vapor barrier, and as an additional thermal insulation material, taking into account the insufficiently high heat-insulating properties of expanded clay.
In order to save time and materials, the wall adjacent to the log house is made of one and a half bricks. Styrofoam is used only on the outside of the wall. Such a wall arrangement is caused by the fact that, according to building codes, attached boiler rooms must also have a load-bearing wall from the abutment side. In that part of the extension, where the entrance is located, the end wall adjoins directly to the frame. And the wall of the log house itself is at the same time a wall of the canopy.
The dimensions of the well masonry cells, taking into account the purpose of the room and minimizing the amount of work and foam waste, were selected according to the size of the foam sheet, height - 1 m, length - 1 m, width according to the size of the walls, for the outer wall 51 cm, for the wall adjacent to a frame of 33 cm. The sequence of work is as follows.
First, we lay out the first row of well masonry cells around the perimeter of the structure, 1 m high, plus one brick higher.
After that, in the cells of the well masonry, we install sheets of foam along the walls and pour expanded clay gravel between them.
What you need to pay attention to:
1. Expanded clay gravel must be dry, since when wet, the drying process, taking into account the structure of the walls, can take a long time.
2. Taking into account the possibility of expanded clay settling, it should be poured in layers, with very careful compaction.
After installing the foam, filling and tamping expanded clay, we do expanded clay concrete screed(diaphragm). The screed height is one brick.
The screed has two functions:
1. Provides the rigidity of the wall structure due to the adhesion of the inner and outer rows of well masonry bricks.
2. Additionally, it protects the expanded clay backfill from shrinkage, since it divides the total height of the backfill of the walls into several belts in height. I got three expanded clay concrete screeds along the height of the wall.
Comment. In case of doubt about the reliability of the structure, or when constructing the walls of more fundamental buildings, the height between the screeds can be reduced using, for example, foam plastic with sheet dimensions (1 × 0.6) m.Then the height between the (diaphragms) of the screeds will be 0.6 m , and the rigidity of the structure will be higher.
Taking into account the design of the wall and the selected materials, I consider it mandatory for such a structure to plaster the walls, both from the inside of the building and from the outside. Plastering the walls from the inside of the room serves as an additional hydro-vapor barrier against the penetration of water vapor that tends to leave the room to the outside. External plaster protects walls and insulation inside the walls from precipitation.
In addition, the plaster also provides additional rigidity to the wall structure. A solution for plaster of a 4: 1 composition, where four parts of sand, one part of M400 cement.
Since the effectiveness of the enclosing structures largely depends on the quality of the windows, the installation of plastic windows into a brick wall. Since the window openings around the perimeter are made of silicate bricks with solid masonry, then to ensure optimal conditions installation of windows I recommend the following: around the entire perimeter window openings fix the foam thermal inserts to the glue.
Further, in order to exclude blowing of the assembly seam (since we blow out the foam at the joints), I made a false quarter on the inside of the window opening, and on the outside I covered the joints with a frame made of the same foam.
In view of the fact that the foam is afraid of ultraviolet rays, and in itself is a rather fragile material, it must be protected. To protect the foam, I used ordinary cement-sand plaster, but with the addition of PVA glue (according to the rules, you need to use a PV emulsion, but I could not buy it), about 30% of the volume. A layer of plaster is applied with a spatula to the surface of the foam. Then, a fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 5 × 5 mm is laid, with embedding. In the corners, also with recessed, an aluminum corner is installed, intended for finishing plasterboard walls. Then the next layer of plaster is applied, leveled and smoothed.
Further installation of PVC windows practically does not differ from the installation, which I described in my articles earlier. The only difference is that instead of a vapor-permeable tape for outdoor installation, I used PSUL tape, taking into account the presence of a false quarter in the window opening. In addition, I used the most warm windows PVC that I could find in the local market. Why do I draw your attention to this question. Since the room is practically unheated, in the most severe frosts (for - 30 gr.), Condensation still appears in the lower part of the structure near one window located in the hallway. If he had not taken the measures described, then most likely, in the frost, all the windows would freeze.
Brief conclusions
Several interesting conclusions based on the experience of the construction and operation of this structure:
1. Arrangement of walls using well masonry is a fairly economical and effective solution.
2. This design can be used in private construction, for example, for a garage, workshop, if we assume their year-round use. That is, even with a small portable heat source, a comfortable temperature will be maintained in the room.
3. In the case of using well masonry for the construction of a residential building, it is necessary to note such a moment as the possibility phased construction... This is especially important if people are on financial constraints. The bottom line is this, at the first stage, the frame of the house is made using well masonry and installing insulation inside the walls. After finishing construction works the house can be exploited. In the future, as money appears, for example, in 3-5 years, additional external insulation... For example, a ventilated facade or a wet facade. The obtained heat engineering parameters of such a house will be very high, while heating costs, on the contrary, are minimal. But taking into account the stretch of spending in time, they will not be so burdensome for the family budget.
Since warm walls by themselves will not provide the required heat engineering parameters, in the next article we will consider the insulation of other structural elements of the house (foundation, basement, blind areas, floors and ceilings).
Expanded clay is obtained by firing a mixture consisting of intumescent clay, sawdust, diesel oil, sulfate alcohol stillage and peat bog. Preliminarily, low-melting raw materials are foamed, and then rolled in special drums, giving its particles a shape. The result of their subsequent heat treatment are light and strong granules that have a fraction of 2-40 mm.
On this basis, expanded clay is divided into three types: sand, gravel and crushed stone. Sand has the finest fraction of 2-5 mm, gravel - 5-40 mm, and crushed stone is obtained by crushing gravel, its most used fraction is 10 mm. Slight deviation in size is possible within 5%. The structure of the finished granules contains a large volume of air, which serves as an excellent barrier for the transfer of heat from the walls.
In addition to differences in fraction, the granular material is divided into 10 marks, the calculation of which begins with 250 and ends with 800. The mark indicates specific gravity 1 m 3 of bulk insulation and its density. For example, expanded clay M400 has a density of 400 kg / m 3. With its decrease, its thermal insulation qualities increase.
The heaviest bulk insulation must be stronger in order not to collapse under its own weight. In terms of strength, expanded clay has grades P15 - P400. The minimum strength of M400 granules should be P50, for expanded clay M450 - P75, etc.
A ten-centimeter layer of expanded clay in the wall is equivalent in terms of insulating properties to brickwork 1000 mm thick or wood paneling having a corresponding size of 250 mm. Therefore, at a rather low air temperature outside, the material is an excellent frost-resistant insulation, and in summer heat keeps the house cool due to its low thermal conductivity.
Compared to other types of insulation, thermal insulation of walls with expanded clay is much cheaper and more effective. It is three times more effective than wood protection, and its cost is an order of magnitude lower than the price of brickwork. Usage of this material allows to reduce heat losses in the house up to 75%.
Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with expanded clay
There are a lot of requirements for the insulation of the walls of the house, the main of which is the environmental friendliness of the material used. This is expanded clay. It is made from natural raw materials and is absolutely safe for health.
In addition, thermal insulation of walls with expanded clay has many more advantages:
- Loose insulation due to small granules is able to easily fill a cavity of any volume.
- Expanded clay is quite affordable.
- Thermal insulation and sound absorption by this material has the best performance due to its porous structure, which makes it possible to successfully use granular backfill for insulation of walls, floors, roofs and foundations.
- Due to the low weight of expanded clay, wall insulation gives a high-quality result with little effort.
- Thermal insulation of walls with this material can be performed in any climatic zone, as it perfectly withstands temperature changes and air humidity.
- The insulation is durable and fire safe.
- Expanded clay does not rot, insects and rodents are indifferent to it, the material is resistant to chemical compounds.
- Installation of bulk thermal insulation does not require the use of construction equipment and can be done independently using simple tools.
Wall insulation technology with expanded clay
To get the most out of the use of expanded clay as insulation, you need to know how to install it. Most often, a granular ceramic heat insulator is used in a three-layer rigid wall structure or in the form of an insulating backfill made in a cavity of brickwork. To work with any of these methods of insulating the walls of a house with expanded clay, you will need the following materials and tools: cement, brick or blocks, expanded clay, concrete mixer, containers and shovels, trowel, plumb bob and tamping, jointing, tape measure and square, building level, cord.
Three-layer system of wall insulation with expanded clay
This is one of the most optimal options thermal insulation using expanded clay. The first insulating layer of such a structure is considered bearing wall, erected from expanded clay concrete blocks, which in themselves are a good and durable insulator. In addition, such products are environmentally friendly and comply modern ideas construction of buildings. The blocks used must be at least 400 mm thick.
The second layer of thermal insulation is made from a mixture of cement and expanded clay in a ratio of 1:10. The hardened mixture forms a rigid structure that transfers its load to the foundation of the house. The third layer serves as a protection for the heat-insulating material and is made of wood or decorative bricks.
Methods for installing insulating expanded clay layer
There are three technologies for insulating walls with expanded clay using interlayers:
- Well masonry... In order to perform well lightweight masonry, you need to lay out two longitudinal walls from bricks at a distance of 15-35 cm from each other, and then, along their height, through a row, bandage brick longitudinal rows using transverse jumpers with a step of 70-110 cm. the way the wells-cavities need to be covered with expanded clay. Every 200-400 mm of wall height, the backfill should be tamped down and filled with cement milk for impregnation.
- Masonry with horizontal triple-row diaphragms... Applying the masonry method with horizontal diaphragms, it is also necessary to make two longitudinal walls, of which the inner one should be brick thick, and the outer one -? bricks. The distance between them should be 15-25 cm. Expanded clay is backfilled after laying every fifth row, then you need to tamp the insulation and fill it with cement "milk". After that, three three-row overlaps (diaphragms) should be laid out with bricks. The corners of the walls in the process of conducting brickwork should be performed without cavities. This will increase the strength of the surface. For the outer layer of masonry, you can use facing, sand-lime brick or concrete blocks, which should then be plastered.
- Masonry with embedded parts... This method for insulation brick wall expanded clay provides for backfilling of granules between two longitudinal walls, and the whole structure is connected with embedded parts - brackets made of reinforcement, or fiberglass ties.
Some restrictions are present when insulating frame walls with expanded clay. The main problem here is that over time bulk materials caked and can settle, leaving the area of the previously insulated surface unprotected. This circumstance reduces the quality of the insulation of the entire structure. Therefore, when laying expanded clay in frame wall it must be carefully tamped, which exposes the sheathing to significant loads.
As for wooden walls, their warming with expanded clay causes certain difficulties. For comparison: the thickness of the outer coating using mineral wool is 10-15 cm, and for filling expanded clay, it will be necessary to prepare cavities 20-40 cm wide, since its thermal insulation properties are noticeably worse than that of mineral wool. To support the weight of the expanded clay, the load-bearing wall must be strong enough. It is problematic to hang such a mass on a log house, besides, the thickness of the backfill of more than 40 cm will not allow this to be done. Therefore, for insulation wooden wall expanded clay will have to make an additional foundation outside. If we take into account its cost and the amount of insulation, which will be needed 4 times more than mineral wool, it can be understood that thermal insulation wooden house expanded clay will be much more expensive. Therefore, it will be better to choose another option for insulation, which does not require strengthening the structures and broadening the foundation.
How to insulate walls with expanded clay - watch the video:
Can expanded clay as insulation in the wall compete modern heaters; how and where is it better to use it as a heater; is there any economic benefit from using this material - let's turn to the experience of FORUMHOUSE users.
Despite the fact that this insulation has been used in construction for a long time, there are many different speculations and rumors about its properties and methods of application. Some builders criticize this material, believing that it is subject to strong moisture accumulation. Others find it ideal for the self-proprietor. Here is the comment of a member of our portal:
Stupid FORUMHOUSE user
The following experiment came out by itself - I had expanded clay in bags for two years on the street. Recently I opened the bags and saw that there was nothing left of it - the balls turned into damp dust.
Any construction material, whether it is expanded clay, brick, foam and aerated concrete, etc. if not correct application, installation, storage and operation, will lose its quality.
user343 FORUMHOUSE user
I think I just got caught "undercooked". I somehow had to collect expanded clay, which lay on the ground for 30-40 years. The granules are even overgrown with moss. I sifted it from the ground, after which there were more whole granules than fragments.
The properties of the material directly depend on the quality of the raw materials and on whether, when making expanded clay, the plant observes all stages of production. Hence: for different manufacturers, expanded clay of the same fraction and density may differ from each other.
Therefore, you can buy both a "pig in a poke" and a relatively cheap but high-quality product, which, if used correctly, will show all its positive properties.
To choose this material, you first need to decide for what purposes it is needed, and what they will be insulated.
bagdanova FORUMHOUSE user
I need it as insulation for walls and as a filler for lightweight concrete. So I thought about which factions to choose.
In the opinion of a member of the forum with a nickname soniikot, as a filler for lightweight concrete, it is better to take fractions 5-10 or 10-20, because the higher the bulk strength, the higher the grade of expanded clay concrete will be.
The specific brand is chosen depending on what requirements are imposed on wall material... Also, the user of our portal advises, before buying expanded clay in meshes, to study reviews on the Internet about the plant and the supplier company. It happens that negligent sellers, offering expanded clay cheaply, mix dirt into the bags or weigh the buyers.
Where to buy expanded clay
FORUMHOUSE is often asked how to choose this material. To get a comprehensive answer from experienced builders, it is necessary to clarify in which region of the Russian Federation construction is supposed, what kind of house is being built, according to what project. This will help you understand why and where the insulation will be used.
A general rule that will be useful to everyone: the characteristics of the product (density, brand, frost resistance, etc.) must correspond to the declared ones. technical parameters, which can be found on the manufacturer's website. Upon delivery, they must bring "honest" cubes and kilograms, not "air". It is worth paying attention to where you buy expanded clay - the price from intermediaries and directly in the manufacturer's company will differ significantly; also see how long the manufacturer has been on the market, what kind of equipment he has. You should not throw all your strength into buying expanded clay cheaply, listen to the opinion of those who have already been built, and look for a manufacturer who has proven himself well.
Is it beneficial to insulate with expanded clay
If we are talking about wooden house, then in order to insulate it with expanded clay, you will have to build a powerful foundation (since the granules weigh more than stone wool), think about how to place a scattering of granules so that they do not spill out, etc.
Note: since the cost of heaters in Moscow and different regions may vary significantly, the final price is calculated based on local characteristics and the availability of certain materials.
tanya (Builderclub expert)See what happens. According to sanitary standards, the air exchange required for your home is 180 m 3 / h.
Hood. One exhaust duct with a cross section of 100 mm removes about 100 m 3 / hour of air from the room, and this is only with a constantly running fan. Air exhaust with periodic switching on of the fan is considered natural, since it is almost always turned off and air movement through it is carried out in a natural way (due to the pressure difference). For natural ventilation, a channel with a cross section of 100 mm is not used, they have too much resistance to air movement, and without a constantly operating forced fan, such channels are considered ineffective. The following options for arranging the hood are suitable for your home:
2 ventilation ducts with a diameter of 100 mm with permanently operating compulsory fans, the power of which will be sufficient to remove at least 80 m 3 / hour of air. In the bathroom, in any case, the hood must be done, since without it, all the smells from the bathroom will move to the only one ventilation duct in the house, i.e. to the kitchen, which is contrary to sanitary standards and simply not comfortable. So that constantly running fans do not interfere with their noise (fans) are often installed at the entrance to the ventilation duct, and in the attic.
1 ventilation duct with natural air movement (with a periodically operating fan or without it at all) with a section of 250x400 mm or a diameter of 350 mm. Such a ventilation duct removes up to 320 m 3 / hour of air. This is with a decent margin, but with natural ventilation (without a constantly operating fan), as I wrote above, the channels of a smaller section are simply not used. Anything less is only forced.
But it seems to me that the following option will be the most comfortable and at the same time simpler to execute. In the bathroom, nevertheless, to make an extractor hood (why, I tried to explain above), but to make it not mechanical, but natural, i.e. with a section of 250x400 mm or a diameter of 350 mm. And leave the existing hood in the kitchen. With this option, the main air exhaust will be carried out through the bathroom, and during cooking, odors from the kitchen will be forced through the kitchen ventilation duct (by a fan).
Inflow. Ventilation is considered operational only if the amount of air removed by the hood is equal to the amount of air entering the room (inflow), and will be 180 m 3 / kg. In our case, the amount of air entering through the enclosing structures is:
1.3 m 3 / hour through leaks in metal-plastic windows(this is the maximum, without reference to the manufacturer)
18 m 3 / hour through external door leaks (also maximum)
31 m 3 / hour through walls
Total: 50.3 m 3 / hour. Which is 2 times less than the amount of air that your cooker hood... As a result, the room will high humidity and lack of oxygen. And if a proper hood is made in the house, then the inflow will no longer be 2, but almost 4 times less than the amount of exhaust air.
Therefore, in addition to arranging the hood, you need to take care of the proper inflow.
In order to increase the amount of supply air, either frequent ventilation is necessary (for more details in the article), or install wall supply valves that compensate for the lack of inflow, namely 180-50 = 130 m 3 / hour. Basically one valve delivers 50 or 100 m 3 / h fresh air... Those. You need to install, for example, 3 valves with a flow rate of 50 m 3 / h each. It is better to install them near the window opening in rooms such as the bedroom and living room.
All the recommendations that I wrote above relate specifically to your (vapor-permeable) walls. If, for example, they are insulated with foam, then the air flow will decrease by another 31 m 3 / hour. Accordingly, it will need to be compensated for by installing another supply valve with a supply of 50 m 3 / hour.
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