Smooth concrete floor in the garage. Concrete floor in the garage: how to cover the concrete floor so as not to dust with your own hands

The dream of every car owner who has a garage is to have a dry, clean, well-equipped room. Places where, regardless of the time of year, you can comfortable conditions do car maintenance. When arranging the box, pouring the floor with concrete in the garage is key point. The strength and service life of the coating, its moisture resistance and resistance to chemical compounds, as well as ease of implementation.

Everything starts from the foundation. It is advisable to lay a solid concrete slab. But, it is expensive, you will need to pay for the work of the crane and workers.

Base device

Most motorists prefer to concrete the floor on their own, while saving significantly. Below is a step-by-step instruction for the work:

1. You need to choose a soft layer of earth;

2. On the walls of the box, mark the level of the future floor;

3. Lay a layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 30-50 mm up to 50 cm high, compact, select fragments with sharp edges. A crushed stone pillow will remove excess moisture, increase the bearing capacity of the base;

4. Add and compact a layer of sand 15 cm high. With its help, a flat horizontal surface is achieved, sediment is reduced and a slope level of 2% is set to the drain grate or to the garage door;

To compact the resulting pillow, you must carefully spill it with water from a watering can.

5. Lay the waterproofing on the resulting base. When concreting the floor in the garage, this stage cannot be neglected. Since water can approach the concrete slab by rising through the capillaries. Suitable for waterproofing:

• ruberoid;
• polyethylene film (250-300 microns);
• only;
• waterproofing

Features of laying waterproofing

Regardless of the material, it is laid evenly, without folds, overlapping, leaving 10-15 cm of margin. Joints are sealed with double-sided tape. The waterproofing material is wrapped on the walls so that its edge sticks out a little after the floor is poured, and fixed on the wall.

Excess waterproofing material is distributed along the walls without cutting it off.

When arranging the filler floor in the garage, you should remember about the expansion gaps, which will be obtained due to the folded insulation;

6. Thermal insulation. If we fill and equip the floor for a heated garage, then it is necessary to make a flooring from a heat-insulating material (expanded polystyrene) or expanded clay (10 cm thick). Tiles are laid end-to-end and glued with adhesive tape for fixation. A layer of polyethylene film is laid on top. If the garage will be operated only in the summer, then this stage is skipped when pouring the floor in the garage with concrete and proceed to reinforcement.

However, in order to save up to 20% of electricity during emergency heating of the garage during cold weather, it is better to provide thermal insulation.

7. Reinforcement. A concrete floor is strong, durable, but undergoes deformation during the shrinkage process. Therefore, when making a concrete floor in the garage with your own hands, you should lay a metal mesh.

Reinforcement features

It is necessary to use class B-1 wire, tie a mesh with 15 by 15 cm cells from it or purchase ready-made reinforcement. To prevent the concrete floor from cracking, it is fixed at half the height from the thermal insulation layer.

It is convenient to use clamps of the "support on the sand" type.

If the budget is limited, then the mesh is fixed on concrete supports located every 40-60 cm. Next, the mesh is laid, leveled horizontally with a level and fixed with mortar. After 24 hours in the garage, work continues on pouring the concrete floor and its subsequent processing.

8. Clearances and slope. Between the walls of the box and the floor, near pipes, pillars, a compensation space of about 5 mm is left. For this, the same polystyrene foam, expansion tape, plastic profile are suitable. When equipping concrete floors, one should remember about a slope of 2% towards the gate (2 cm per 1 m of length).

Preparation for floor cement mixture

Exists classic version composition of the mixture and its proportions. One part of cement M 400, two parts of water, two parts of river sand, four parts of crushed stone (fractions of 5-10 cm). It will turn out concrete M 300. In order for the floor in the garage to be durable, this brand is more than enough. First, cement and sand are mixed, then water and crushed stone. Optimally, use an electric concrete mixer or order ready solution. But, when saving, the components are mixed manually. Using different proportions, you can get the desired brand of concrete for pouring the floor in a garage of any size and purpose.

concreting

Before pouring the floors in the garage with your own hands, you need to lay guides with a slope of 2%. They will make the floor for the garage smooth and durable.

How to install beacons when concreting

Initially, in paragraph 2 walkthrough, the floor level was marked on the walls. Using it, we install aluminum beacons from the zero point of the surface. We fix them with alabaster solution in increments of 30 - 50 cm.

Features of pouring concrete

It remains to consider how to properly fill the floor in a garage box in order to maintain its solidity and hardness for a long time. Important:

• use the prepared solution within 50 minutes;
• do not break the fill for several days to ensure the integrity of the base;
• provide concrete with moisture during solidification.

Cement begins to be cast at the minimum mark. A rule or a vibrating screed evenly, smoothly distribute the solution between the guides.

It is important that the rule is adjacent to the adjacent beacons, and they can be seen in the compacted concrete.

The process is continued until the appearance of cement milk. To distill excess air, use a deep vibrator or a bayonet shovel, this will make the base even stronger.
Spatula smooth out random irregularities and joints with the wall. After a couple of hours, the surface is overwritten.

Curing time of concrete

Given that water quickly evaporates from the surface of the concrete, it is poured with water every 10 hours. This avoids the appearance of cracks. Work is carried out using a conventional watering can or burlap soaked in water, which is laid on the entire surface. Solutions appeared on the market that form a waterproof film that reduces the evaporation of water. The concrete will dry completely after 28 days.

How to harden a concrete surface

Over time on concrete floor chips, small cracks are formed, cement dust is formed. There are several options for solving this problem: painting the base, laying tiles, topping.

Coloring

This type of work is carried out after the concrete has completely dried. Use the following types of paints and enamels:

• epoxy. Doesn't let moisture through chemical components inside, durable;
• alkyd. First, the surface is treated with a primer, then the composition is applied;
• polyurethane. The compositions are resistant to external influences, but dry for a long time.

Laying decorative coating

Work on laying the floor with tiles is carried out on the ground, after it has dried. Such a coating is moisture-resistant, wear-resistant, easily repaired by replacing a damaged element.

Topping systems

Topping is a dry mix, 2/3 of which is evenly distributed over the surface of the hardening concrete (for the first time 2-5 hours). Rubbed, achieving complete mixing of the components of the mixture with cement milk. Next, apply the rest of the topping. After 4-6 hours, the surface is rubbed using a paddle machine. After several such treatments, the floor becomes glossy, acquires additional strength, and becomes easy to clean.

Today, car owners can equip the floors in the garage with their own hands using. The main thing is to take into account all the nuances. And then, the coating of the "second" house will not lose its hardness, resistance to mechanical and chemical influences, attractiveness even after many years of operation.

The device of the floor in the garage requires special attention. It is he who will withstand daily weight loads, the safety of the car largely depends on his condition. A damp floor provokes the formation of condensate on the bottom of the machine, which leads to the development of corrosion. Despite the seeming simplicity of building a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands, this business has its own rules and subtleties that should not be ignored.

The concrete floor is the most reliable option for a garage, but, of course, it cannot be left in its original form

Concrete flooring is the traditional flooring for a garage. In its pure form, it is not very attractive and has some difficulties in operation. To eliminate them, several options for dedusting and facing concrete have been developed:

• ironing;
• finishing with porcelain stoneware;
• the device of a self-leveling floor on a mineral, polymeric or epoxy basis;
• staining.

The strength characteristics of the coating largely depend on the brand of concrete and compliance with the technology of its pouring. No less important is the base, the “pie”, on top of which the screed is poured.

When installing a concrete floor in unheated garages, you need to be prepared for the fact that with the onset of spring, the frozen concrete will begin to thaw, and the humidity in the room will increase. As a consequence, moisture will condense on the cold metal. Help to eliminate the deficiency high-quality ventilation garage and correct device upper waterproof layer of the screed.

Pros and cons

Concrete is different high strength and fire resistance

The main advantages of concrete are strength and durability. These are undeniable advantages that ensured the widespread use of this building material. In the garage, such a floor is convenient for its resistance to all kinds of oils, solvents and flammable liquids. Among other advantages:

• fire safety;
• easy to clean surface;
• the ability to withstand significant, including uneven, weight loads.

To disadvantages concrete pavement include:

• damage from impacts with sharp heavy objects;
• a long period of gaining brand strength (at least 28 days);
• the difficulty of dismantling.

Device requirements

To get a smooth surface, it is necessary to grind the floor

In order to get an idea of ​​the ratio of the strength of concrete and the thickness of its layer, it is recommended to pay attention to the requirement for the installation of a concrete floor in hangars for Euro trucks. The standard "pie" of the foundation in these rooms is as follows:

• sand - 10 cm;
• crushed stone - 10 cm;
• reinforced screed - 10 cm.

It should be noted that in order to smooth surface the floor is not enough to level the concrete along the beacons during its pouring. A flat surface is obtained by grinding using special machines or a self-leveling floor device. Also, for this purpose, porcelain stoneware is laid on the screed.

Attention! Before pouring the floor, you need to take care of the presence of a viewing hole, if one is provided for by the garage project.

Requirements for the installation of a concrete screed are fixed in SP 29-13330-2011 "SNiP 2.03.13-88 Floors":

1. The minimum thickness of the concrete layer is 20 mm.
2. If laying sound or thermal insulation materials, the minimum thickness of the screed is 40 mm.
3. When installing communications along the plane of the lower floor, the recommended thickness of the concrete layer is 10-15 mm more than the pipe section.
4. The end surfaces must be covered with a moisture-proof coating (moisture-resistant primer or paint).
5. The working seams after alignment with the beacons are filled cement-sand mortar and smooth down.
6. For the device of the screed, sifted sand, gravel or crushed stone with a fraction of 5-15 mm are used, cement M150 for industrial premises and M300-M400 - for residential.
7. For reinforcing the screed, metal meshes with meshes of 100x100 mm or 150x15 mm are required.
8. Reinforcement is carried out with a concrete layer thickness of 40 cm or more.

What brand of concrete is better to choose

Before choosing concrete, read the requirements of SNiP

For the installation of the floor in the garage, you can order factory concrete or prepare it yourself using a concrete mixer. When choosing a brand of concrete, they are guided by the requirements of SNiP:

According to the reviews of garage owners, for passenger cars it is enough to fill in a reinforced concrete floor 70 mm thick (excluding the shock-absorbing “pillow”). Then apply 2 coats of primer and renew the coating every six months. The optimal brand of concrete is M300.

Calculations

You can calculate the floor using special calculators

For the installation of the floor in the garage, it is necessary to perform a series of calculations of the required amount of concrete and the optimal thickness of its layer. To perform these tasks, special calculators have been developed that take into account:

• estimated weight load;
• the need for concreting a viewing hole and a platform before entering;
• brand of concrete;
• weight characteristics of the components of the solution;
• 10% supply of materials.

For self-preparation of concrete grade M300, a composition of the following components is kneaded:

• cement M400 - 1 part;
• sifted sand - 1.9 parts;
• gravel or crushed stone - 3.7 parts.

Optimal screed parameters:

• for garages with one car, the floor thickness is 50-70 mm;
• for garages for two parking spaces - 80-100 mm;
• reinforcement is performed with a road mesh Vr1 with a wire cross section of 8 mm and a mesh size of 150-150 mm;
• sand layer thickness - 50-70 mm;
• the thickness of the gravel or crushed stone "cushion" is 120-150 mm.

Attention! The chain-link mesh is unsuitable for reinforcing the screed, since it can only withstand a tensile load in the horizontal direction.

Necessary materials and tools

The tools for pouring a concrete floor in a garage are very extensive.

In order to fill the floor in the garage, you will need to perform a large amount of earthwork and, if necessary, independently make a mesh for reinforcement. To complete all tasks, you will need tools:

• concrete mixer;
• stretcher or garden wheelbarrow with pneumatic wheels;
• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• roulette;
• laser level;
• bucket with a strong handle;
• rags;
• brush with hard bristles;
• lighthouses;
• rule (can be replaced with a flat board).

It is necessary to prepare materials:

• cement M400;
• sand;
• clay;
• crushed stone or gravel of fine fraction;
• plasticizer for cement (sold in cans);
• reinforcement with a section of 8 mm or a finished mesh for reinforcing the screed;
• waterproofing materials: bitumen-rubber mastic, roofing material, special membranes.

Preparatory work

If you cheat on preparatory stage, further work may go down the drain

Each stage of the concrete floor in the garage is important. There are no trifles in this case. The quality of further work largely depends on how correctly the preparatory work is carried out.

Step 1. Calculation of the depth of the pit. On average, to fill a floor with a thickness of 10 mm, you will need to go deep into the ground by 20-30 cm.

Step 2 Marking the floor level. Using a level, find a point 10 cm above the level of the existing floor in the garage. Focusing on it, horizontal lines are drawn along the walls (or marks are made) with chalk or a marker.

Step 3. Preparation of the pit. Includes a set of works on excavation to the estimated depth.

Step 4 Level the bottom using shovels.

Step 5. Compact the soil using a vibrating plate or heavy objects. If necessary, dig a pit for viewing hole. Its parameters are:

• width 75-80 cm + thickness of the waterproofing layer 30 cm;
• depth - they are guided by the height of the person who will repair the car + 30-40 cm;
• the length is equal to the length of the car + 120-150 cm.

Step by step instructions for pouring a concrete floor in a garage

After pouring the concrete floor, it will not be possible to walk on it for about a week

Step 1. A layer of clay 3-4 cm thick is laid on the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. It will act as a waterproofing agent.

Step 2. Sand is poured and leveled so that a layer 8-10 cm thick is obtained. Water it with water from a hose, level and compact again.

Step 3. A layer of crushed stone is poured and the processes of leveling and tamping are repeated.

Step 4. The sand-gravel “cushion” is poured with lean concrete, which is prepared in the following proportion: for 1 bag of M400 cement (25 kg) - 344 kg of sand and 11 liters of water. The resulting layer is leveled and left to dry for 2-3 days.

Step 5. Waterproofing is done in the chosen way: sheets of roofing material or special membranes are laid with an overlap, a layer of coating mastic is applied. Waterproofing should go on the walls of the garage by 10-15 cm.

Step 6 Lay the reinforcing mesh.

Step 7 Install beacons. They are guided by the previously made markings of the walls of the garage. Lighthouses are pre-lubricated with machine oil, installed on a cement-sand mortar. All strips must be in the same horizontal plane. The correctness of the installation is checked with a level or threads are pulled from one wall to another.

Step 8 Prepare M300 concrete or use a ready-made factory mix.

Step 9 Concrete is poured in layers, compacting it with a reinforcement bar. This will allow air to escape from the solution and prevent voids from forming. Leveling concrete on lighthouses.

Step 9. After 24-36 hours, the beacons are carefully removed.

Step 10. The resulting recesses are filled with cement-sand mortar and leveled.

Step 11. During the first three days, moisten the floor. To protect it from drying out, you can sprinkle it with wet sawdust or cover it with plastic wrap.

After 4 weeks, the surface will be ready for use. But you can walk on it after 5-7 days.

Hardening and dedusting methods

A practical owner of the garage will take care not only of the durability of the floor, but also of its smoothness. One of the most important tasks is to create a smooth, non-hygroscopic surface. This effect is achieved in several ways.

Ironing

For the ironing process, you will need to arm yourself with a metal grater or similar tool

The easiest way to strengthen the top layer of the screed is ironing. This is a time-tested technology that guarantees dedusting and compaction of concrete. The procedure is performed on the 3-4th day after pouring the floor. The essence of the process is to rub dry cement into the concrete surface, or with the use of various additives:

• washed and sifted quartz sand fraction not more than 0.2 m;
• steel fiber: metal filings with a cross section of not more than 1 mm;
• slaked lime with cement, mixed in a ratio of 1:10.

To perform the work, you will need a metal grater or any handy item from metal. The rubbing of the prepared composition is carried out until a shine characteristic of a polished surface appears.

Important! Before use, the cement is sifted through a fine sieve.

Coloring

There are several ways to strengthen the surface of concrete with enamels:

1. During the pouring of the top layer of the floor, a moisture-resistant and quick dry paint. It is taken into account that the color of the surface will change, but will not reach the same brightness as when applying paint with a brush.
2. Use paint designed for road markings. Cover the floor with 2 layers. On average, to paint an area of ​​100 m 2, 90-100 liters of paint will be required. It is a quick drying compound that hardens within 10 minutes.
3. Coloring paint brush wear-resistant quick-drying paints.

Padding

Floor priming is used to remove dust from concrete. For this purpose, any composition that ensures the moisture resistance of the treated surface is suitable. The primer is poured onto the floor and dispersed with a brush or roller on a long handle. As a rule, one layer is not enough to achieve the desired result. Therefore, the concrete floor in the garage is primed twice, observing the break required by the instructions.

bedding

Adding granite or marble chips significantly increases the strength of the concrete floor. You need to understand that it is not enough to add stones when pouring the top layer. Not all crumbs will be tightly covered by the cement-sand mortar and will soon begin to flake off. The right technology padding looks like this:

• the floor is coated with a layer of two-component primer ENECLAD CFS ("Eneclad SFS");
• pour a layer of granite or marble chips, level and compact it;
• after the primer has hardened, a new layer of ENECLAD CFS is poured over the crumbs.

Topping

Topping is the process of compacting concrete with the help of special additives. Depending on the ingredients used, there are several types of topping:

• volumetric - with the addition of plasticizers;
• liquid - using polymerizing soluble mixtures on a polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic basis;
• dry - with the addition of Terrazzo, Maser Top 100, Master Top 450 additives.

Any of the above technologies strengthens only upper layer concrete screed. The coating needs to be updated every 3-5 years.

Washed (washed) concrete

Washed concrete combines strength and decorativeness

Washed concrete is a rocky surface, each element of which is securely held by a cement-sand mortar. The strength of this coating is high, so it is recommended for arranging warehouses, parking lots and garages. Due to its decorative effect, it is widely used in landscape design, when making entrance groups and steps.

To obtain washed concrete, materials will be required:

• filler fraction 5-10 mm (granite or marble chips, crushed stone, dolomite, gravel);
• screened quarry sand;
• Portland cement M400;
• hardening retarder gel of the finishing layer of concrete (can be replaced with sugar syrup or detergent"Progress");
• plastic molds for paving slabs or self-made wooden boxes.

Tools:

• hydrodynamic washing of the Karcher type (instead of it, you can use a manual pump for whitewashing with a pressure of 0.5 MPa);
• concrete mixer;
• running water;
• brush with synthetic hard bristles.

Stages of work:

1. The concrete mixer is filled with 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and 4 parts aggregate. A solution is prepared within a few minutes.
2. The resulting mass is placed in molds, the bottom of which is pre-coated with a layer of gel.
3. Wait for the mixture to harden.
4. Take out finished products.
5. Rinse under the pressure of a jet of water, cleaning the gel with a brush.

Important! Surface treatment with water is carried out immediately after stripping. Otherwise, the gel will be more difficult to wash out.

Porcelain stoneware installation

Porcelain stoneware is a reliable and aesthetic option for concrete floor cladding.

For facing the concrete floor in the garage, you will need ceramic tiles with a wear resistance class of at least 5. When choosing, pay attention to the front surface of porcelain stoneware: it is important that it is not smooth. The best solution is to buy tiles with a rough or embossed surface. This coating is not slippery and at the same time easy to clean.

Porcelain stoneware is laid on tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar. Concrete is pre-primed 1-2 times. Laying starts from one of the far corners, the correctness of the work is regularly checked using a bubble level. Seams are filled with moisture resistant grout.

Care and maintenance

The main condition for maintaining the bearing capacity of a concrete floor is the absence of moisture that destroys it.. It is necessary to make high-quality natural or supply ventilation providing good air circulation. If they plan to wash the car indoors, ditches are provided for water drainage.

Another important condition for the safety of the coating is not to hit it with heavy objects. It is necessary to organize the garage space so that all large-sized and heavy items are on the lower shelves of the racks.

Concrete floor maintenance includes:

• timely removal of stains from oils, paints and solvents;
• traces of rubber wheels are washed off with special detergents;
• regularly carry out wet cleaning.

Possible problems

After some time of operation, cracks may appear in the concrete floor.

During the operation of the concrete floor, surface defects such as cracks and cavities may form. They are eliminated by filling with a cement-sand mortar. Pre-embroider, removing all weakly adhering particles, remove dust and apply 1-2 layers of primer.

One of the troubles in the operation of concrete surfaces is the formation of specific fine dust. They get rid of it by priming, ironing or finishing with facing materials.

The hygroscopicity of concrete is reduced by special means- water repellants. One of them is Penetron. The solution is prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and applied to the floor surface with a paint brush or roller. For these purposes, you can use other compositions:

• "AQUATRON";
• "HYDROCHIT";
• "KALMATRON";
• "HYDROTEX";
• WASCON

All of them work according to the same principle: they fill the smallest pores of concrete, crystallize and form a moisture-proof layer.

Video: How to make a concrete floor in the garage

You can do the concrete floor in the garage with your own hands, without involving special equipment and specialists. Subject to the filling technology and proper surface care, it will serve the car owner for decades.

To ensure the normal functioning of the garage, it is necessary to make a solid and reliable floor in it, on which it would be convenient to repair a car or any other equipment. For these purposes, the concrete floor is best suited, which is practical, convenient and durable in operation. In addition, it is quite inexpensive. Therefore, concreting a garage floor is the easiest option for arranging a garage.

garage floor requirements

The term "garage floor" in itself suggests that this part of the garage must meet certain requirements, which include:

• strength (the floor in the garage is constantly subject to shock and abrasive loads);
• wear resistance (the floor surface is intensively exploited);
• moisture resistance (high probability of leakage of liquids from the car, condensate inside the garage, etc.);
• chemical inertness to various types fuels, motor oils and auto chemical products.

Preparation of the base for the screed

At the first stage of the construction of the garage, a concrete floor screed is made, which lies on a certain base, which is a compacted layer of gravel or sand with a minimum thickness of 15 cm. layer) or hydrostekloizol. Wherein care must be taken to ensure that the edges waterproofing material leaned on the walls. Then, a 7-10 cm thick insulation is placed on the waterproofing layer.

Concrete floor scheme

Insulation can be, for example, polystyrene foam. it is advisable to use only if the garage room is heated. At the final stage of preparing the garage floor, a reinforcing metal mesh is laid under the screed, which will strengthen the concrete structure and protect the floor from cracking.

Preparing the mixture for pouring

Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to prepare a solution. For its preparation, sand and cement are used in proportions: 1:3, 1:4 or 1:5, depending on the selected brand of cement. For example, if cement grade M400 is used, then the component composition is mixed in a ratio of 1:3. When arranging floors, special dry building mixtures type M150 sand concrete. They are manufactured using the most modern technologies and plasticizers and fiber fibers are added to their formulation, thanks to which you can get a fairly strong and completely even screed. As a rule, leveling mixtures are applied in a layer of 2-3 cm as a facial screed.

It is important to know that in cases where preference is given independent preparation of a mortar for screed, it is advisable to use low speed agitators for mixing it.

Proportions for the preparation of concrete mix

Screed slope

The arrangement of the concrete floor in the garage should also be carried out taking into account such important condition like dodge. The slope should be within 1.5-2% - this will be about 1.5-2 cm per 1 m of length.

It is important to pay attention to the slope of the concrete screed was directed towards the gate or the drain grate.

It is also necessary to remember about the expansion gaps that must be performed near all walls and protruding parts inside the garage - pipes, poles, etc. This is especially true when the garage area is not more than 50 m 2. It is convenient to leave gaps even at the moment when the screed is being performed. For this, an expansion tape, an expansion profile made of plastic and a polystyrene foam strip 0.5 cm thick are used.

Concrete floor pouring technology

Before you start, you should markup working area. For this purpose, columns are clogged around the perimeter. It is better if they are made of metal reinforcement - in this case they are clearly visible and they will easily be hammered into the ground. On the columns from the accepted zero mark, you need to put the height of the future screed, and with the help of the building level, make additional markings.

Marking the zone and pouring concrete mortar

The prepared solution is poured onto the base, after which it must be evenly dispersed over the entire surface. This work must be done at a fast pace, as the solution quickly sets and hardens. The thickness of the garage concrete floor depends on the requirements for it, and can be about 30-70 mm. AT this case you should take into account the amount of material that went into leveling all sorts of irregularities concrete slab designed for laying the screed. If it is planned to use the "warm floor" system, then the thickness will differ from the minimum value of 30 mm.

It is very important to pour the floor in the garage at a time. This will achieve the greatest strength and solidity of the entire concrete structure.

In 6-7 days the concrete floor will be ready

It is recommended to moisten the screed after pouring in order to avoid further cracking. Humidification should be done once every 10 hours. It takes 6-7 days for the concrete mixture to completely harden. If the face screed was made using a special self-leveling mixture, then the period of its hardening must be read on the package. Usually it is 12-24 hours.

When installing a high-quality and durable concrete floor in a garage, its owner needs to perform three main tasks that ensure strength, wear resistance and acceptable appearance finished coating, and in order to achieve the desired result, the floor screed in the garage is made of quality materials and always on a carefully prepared base.

What is a concrete screed?

A concrete screed is the fundamental element of the floor, which subsequently bears all the destructive loads, and is often the finish coating that determines the ability of the floor to withstand aggressive chemical liquids, fuels and lubricants. The concrete screed can define the appearance of the floor and serve as the basis for decorative coating from ceramic tiles or other facing materials.

A concrete screed is, first of all, a solid, compacted, leveled base, on which it is laid on special racks. reinforcing cage, subsequently poured with concrete grade M200, M300. Lower grades of concrete do not provide the necessary wear resistance, and higher grades, although they have high performance, are unprofitable economically.

Several types of concrete are used for flooring, in which, in addition to cement and sand, various fillers are used, which are more characteristic of a particular area and do not reduce the quality of concrete with some change in the proportions of its constituent materials. Instead of more expensive crushed stone, when installing floors, you can use a mixture where gravel is used as a filler. In places where metallurgical production is concentrated, dump slag is introduced into the concrete as a filler with a slight increase in the proportion of cement, and expanded clay can be used as a filler to obtain light and warm screeds.

In order to make a concrete screed in the garage with your own hands, using materials available in a particular area, the price of which will be lower than imported ones, it is optimal to use the M250 brand with its components:

• 1 weight or volume part of cement brand 400;
• 2.1 parts by weight of sand;
• 3.9 parts by weight of filler, which is used as crushed stone.

When using cement grade 500, the composition of concrete changes somewhat:

• 1 weight part of cement;
• 2.6 parts by weight of sand;
• 4.5 parts by weight of filler.

All components, as shown in the video, are thoroughly mixed dry in a suitable container and only after that they are closed with water.

To do the pouring of the concrete floor in the garage with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe concrete floor in the garage must be filled "in one go". To do this, you must use a concrete mixer or a suitable container without sharp corners, in which the mixed components are retained. Poorly mixed dry mix becomes heterogeneous, which significantly affects the quality of the finished concrete.

Preparation of the floor surface for concreting

In order to produce high-quality and durable concrete floors in the garage, you should properly prepare the underlying surface.

1. The earthen floor must be leveled and carefully tamped. Then a dry mixture of sand and gravel with a thickness of at least 15 cm is poured and again carefully compacted, first in a dry form, and then with additional moistening with water. For soil compaction, it is best to use a vibratory rammer with an electric or gasoline drive. Doing one-time work with your own hands, you can take essential tool for rent. Working with a rammer, as shown in the video, is not particularly difficult, but the quality of surface compaction is much higher than when using a hand tool;
2. Next, high-quality waterproofing is done, which is essential to ensure an acceptable microclimate and prevent ground moisture from entering the garage. It is possible to use roofing felt for this purpose, laid with overlapping seams, but it is better to make a waterproofing membrane from modern materials specially designed for this purpose, and correctly made waterproofing necessarily goes to the walls to the height of the intended floor line;
3. If it is necessary to insulate the floor in the garage, special extruded polystyrene foam is used high density in the form of slabs 1000x1000 in size, 30-50 mm thick, laid directly on the waterproofing layer.

Concrete screed device

A reinforcing mesh is laid on carefully prepared floors. You can use a ready-made factory-made mesh, or you can make a reinforcing layer with your own hands using a standard reinforcing bar. If the letter “C” is present in the designation of the reinforcement, then such material can be welded by conventional electric arc welding, otherwise knitting with a special knitting wire is used. After laying the reinforcement, it is raised to the required height with special supports so that the reinforcing belt is in the thickness of the poured concrete, the layer of which must be at least 50 mm. The minimum thickness of the bar for reinforcing the floor in the garage to ensure the necessary strength is 8 mm, and the grid spacing is 10 cm.

At the next stage, control beacons should be made, along which the surface of the poured concrete floor will be leveled. When installing beacons, it should be remembered that in order to unhindered removal of water from the concrete floor surface, it is necessary to make a slope of 1-2 cm per 1 meter of length towards the exit or drain grate, if any, in the garage.

Lighthouses can be made from a smooth metal rod, water pipe or use special purchased products. Stands for lighthouses are made of a quick-hardening mortar of gypsum, alabaster or a mixture of cement and sand. After leveling the beacons and drying the fixing solution, you can proceed directly to the concrete screed device.

After thoroughly mixing the dry components of the solution, the mixture is closed with water and evenly distributed over the floor surface. The amount of water added to the composition of the mixture depends on the moisture content of the sand and is selected individually in each case. For those who want to do the pouring with their own hands, it is strongly recommended to take one or two assistants to this stage of work, who will knead the next portion of the mortar while leveling the previous one. It is very important to pour the entire surface of the floor at a time, with breaks between portions of the solution no more than 30 minutes. So you can guarantee the solidity and strength of the entire coating.

The leveling of the concrete mixture is carried out using a rule that moves along the beacons with vibrating movements. For large areas it is preferable to use a special vibrating plate.

After leveling the surface, the screed should be kept for 4-5 hours to dry the released water and to preliminarily set the poured mortar. This time depends on how thick the screed is in the garage and on the amount of water used to dilute the mixture.

After the excess water has dried, it is necessary to grout the top layer of the screed with a manual metal float or, which is much better, with a rotary trowel. During grouting, a layer of dry cement or a special hardening composition 2-3 mm thick is applied to the surface of the screed, which provides the floors with increased strength, moisture resistance and the absence of dust formation - the main drawback of all cement floors.

The whole process of pouring and leveling the floors in the garage can be viewed on the video.

Commissioning

According to regulatory documents on a construction based on Portland cements, the minimum strength is achieved already 8-10 hours after the grouting of the top layer, and full maturation in vivo occurs no earlier than 28 days later. Before the expiration of this time, the surface should not be subjected to loads in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, which greatly reduce the strength and durability of the coating.

Proper organization of garage storage of a car, as practice shows, is one of the components of a long and trouble-free car service, and also a solution to many problems associated with maintenance and repair, the ability to start in winter time and just a question of safety.

Undoubtedly, garage storage of a car provides all these advantages, especially if the garage building itself is made according to the project and taking into account the needs of the owner himself. But for some reason, many owners put off such a moment as a smooth and durable floor in the room for the final stage of construction. And at the same time, it is one of the most important elements of the design of the garage parking lot.

For an already built garage building, pouring the floor requires some complex preparatory work:

1. On the initial stage the surface is cleaned of construction debris and pre-levelled.
2. Next, the location of the building relative to the surrounding area is assessed. Most Garage Doors are designed on a small hill in relation to the road, because otherwise there is a big risk of getting a small pool inside the building in the spring and summer, and in winter period- an ice-filled skating rink. Thus, the level of the gate will be taken as the level of the floor.
3. It is recommended to immediately outline the floor level along the perimeter of the walls, so that during work it is easier to navigate relative to the laying of the base layers.
4. Inside the building, the state of the soil, its density and the presence of soils close to the surface are assessed. ground water. Such an assessment is required to determine the scope of work on laying the floor, the calculation of the necessary materials.

Site preparation works are carried out in the following order:

1. Site leveling.
2. Raising and removal of the top layer of soil.
3. Preparation of the earthen surface for backfilling with rubble and the creation of a pillow.

At the end of the preparatory work, a flat, solid surface of the soil base should be obtained.

Determination of paving thickness

A simple calculation shows that for an average car weighing up to 2.5 tons, it is enough:

• top concrete slab 15-17 cm thick;
• insulation layer (in case the garage is planned to be used as a car repair shop or just a workshop with being in it in winter) 10-15 cm;
• a layer of sand up to 10 cm thick;
• gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm.

Total, total 55-62 cm. It should be noted right away that this “pie” may have certain deviations, but in general, the dimensions of the layers must be respected.

Quite often, garage cooperatives grow in places of wastelands or dumps, where the construction of residential buildings is very difficult and where the soil is very unstable. In this case, the thickness of each layer is recommended to be increased by at least 5 cm, and the concrete screed should be made with additional reinforcement with welded steel mesh.

Tools and materials, choice of brand of concrete

The ideal option for pouring a concrete floor in a garage would be to use ready-made concrete from a mixer, but given that this is quite often very problematic, you will have to prepare the solution yourself. To do this, prepare the following tool:

• concrete mixer;
• shovel;
• Master OK;
• rule at least 2 meters long;
• long building level or, even better, a laser level;
• grinder with cutting wheels;
• welding machine;
• hammer and mallet;
• tamper;
• special clothing and protective equipment.

• crushed stone of the middle fraction;
• sand;
• boards 15 mm thick;
• reinforcement 8 or 10 mm;
• welded mesh of the middle cell.

Pillow preparation

The first layer on the soil base is laid rubble layer. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is evenly distributed over the entire surface, and after checking the level of horizontalness with the help of a rammer, it is compacted.

On top of the compacted layer of crushed stone is laid layer of sand. Just like crushed stone, it is leveled and compacted. When compacting, in addition to ramming, it is possible to provide for the use of a vibrating plate or a garden roller.

Damper clearance, hydro and thermal insulation

The top layer of the concrete floor should be considered as a separate monolithic structure, which, like all objects, tends to change its size depending on the ambient temperature. In order to prevent mutual deformations of the walls and the base, it is recommended to arrange a damper gap along the perimeter of the floor. Simply put, this is nothing more than setting as a buffer layer wooden planks 15 mm thick all around.

The role of such a gap when constructing a floor of several slabs is played by demarcation strips used to enclose the perimeter of each of the slabs.

A waterproofing layer to prevent capillary entry of moisture from the soil under the slab and its destruction is recommended to be made using standard waterproofing products used in building technology – roofing material or polyethylene film. Most the best option the film protrudes, this material will make the coating uniform, without joints, besides, it will cost much less than roofing material.

Laying waterproofing is carried out in such a way that the film or roofing material lies evenly over the entire surface area, and the edges go onto the walls of the garage and are raised above the base by 5-7 cm.

As a heat-insulating layer, you can use:

• dense sheet foam;
• expanded clay.

From the point of view of efficiency, expanded clay looks more preferable both in terms of practicality of work and in terms of safety, because foam plastic is a favorite habitat for rodents.

Expanded clay is carefully distributed over the area of ​​​​the entire garage and slightly compacted with a roller.

Reinforcement

It is recommended to install a metal reinforcing grille in accordance with the dimensions of the car. So, in the place where the wheels are supposed to pass, it is recommended to install the longitudinal bars of the lattice every 7-10 cm, in other places it is enough to place the reinforcement in such a way that cells 15*15 or 20*20 cm. For heavier equipment, you can strengthen the parking lot with an additional layer of reinforcement.

The ideal option for fastening reinforcement is the fastening of rods using electric welding, but for a small load it is enough to connect them with soft mounting wire.

It is recommended to raise the reinforcement belt above the insulation layer by 5-7 cm so that the concrete freely penetrates under the reinforcement and the belt structure is in the middle of the concrete layer. Additionally, it is recommended to install and fix the welded grating, this will strengthen the floor structure.

The reinforcing layer is installed in such a way that it is 5-7 cm lower from the surface.

Installation of beacons

To obtain a flat and smooth surface, it will be necessary to install beacons, which will serve as guiding supports for leveling the surface of the poured concrete.

They are installed independently of the reinforcing belt of the slab. For installation, it is recommended to simply drive metal pins from the reinforcement into the surface of the pillow. On top of them, taking into account alignment in the horizontal plane, guides in the form of beacons will be fixed.

If there is a long rule, it is enough to install three beacon guides - one guide along the walls and one in the middle. Small size rule will require installation more these devices.

The distance between the beacons is chosen in such a way that the rule lies freely on them. with a margin of 10 cm on each side.

Such a condition is necessary so that when leveling the surface, the rule moves not only along the guides, but also with small “left-right” movements, the top layer is leveled.

Direct pour

The order of work is as follows:

1. Pouring with homogeneous concrete is carried out, starting from the most distant corner from the gate.
2. The finished portion of the solution is leveled over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base so that it is 1-2 cm above the level of the beacons.
3. After the concrete is unloaded by the rule, gradually moving in the direction of concreting, vibration movements are carried out, leveling the surface.
4. Gradually moving towards the gate, the entire floor area is poured and leveled.

You can clearly see the general procedure of work in the following video:

What care will be required?

It is recommended to leave the flooded surface to dry for 1-2 days. Usually, after 3 days after pouring, concrete can already be walked on, and after 7 days it is able to withstand the first load, although it will only gain its design strength at normal temperature. on the 28th day.

In the hot season, concrete is very afraid of the top layer drying out, this can lead to cracking of the surface or even peeling of the layers. To prevent this, it is recommended to wet the surface with a small amount of water, starting from 2 days. Further, during the operation, it will be enough just to periodically clean and irrigate the base with water.

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