DIY milling machine drawings. Homemade milling table

The milling cutter is the most frequently used tool of a self-respecting craftsman. Thanks to him, you can make things we know with incredible ease. There are operations in carpentry that cannot be performed without this tool.

The milling cutter consists of a motor, a collet for attaching replaceable cutters, a speed controller, a vertical bar. V lineup from any manufacturer, there are many models with different capacities. Manual router - pretty versatile electrical appliance, which has a wide potential and opportunities. It becomes possible to improve the router by placing it on a horizontal surface that will allow you to machine fairly large workpieces with minimal effort.

Purpose of the milling table

Installing a router in a table or workbench can achieve good results in the manufacture of many products. In the production of furniture, this is an irreplaceable inventory. Since this process often requires trimming the edge of the canvases, making shaped grooves and grooves.

These tables can be found in major tool stores. The cost of such equipment directly depends on the functionality and material from which they are made. But even with the most minimal set functions, but with high-quality coverage, the price for such a product is quite high. For a simple amateur who does for his own pleasure in the garage, the price is unaffordable. The way out is a homemade router table.

Before you start purchasing material for the future table, you should decide on its functionality. Let's consider the main capabilities of a hand-held milling cutter and its machine version.

Hand Router Operations

• Curly or straight-line machining of ends or edges of workpieces.
• Cutting holes of various shapes for installing furniture fittings.
• Removing a quarter of the thickness.
• Grinding and cutting of workpieces.
• Drilling.
• Finishing of the cut site.
• Removing grooves of splines, grooves.

Milling table operations

A do-it-yourself router table allows you to perform operations such as:

• parallel finishing cut;
• facing surfaces and long edges;
• sampling a quarter;
• finishing of edges.

From the list it becomes clear that all the same operations are performed on the milling table as with a conventional manual milling cutter, but only with greater accuracy and quality. In addition, the dimensions of the blanks are already several times larger.

Choosing a hand router

For a tiny workshop, buying a separate router is an unaffordable luxury. Hence, a milling table will be required with a quick-detachable router design. This means that it will work in two versions, both on the table and in manual mode. To do this, you need a quality power tool.

There are two types of hand router:

• submersible;
• trimming.

Their names speak of their functionality. Since the milling cutter is highly specialized, its further consideration will not be of interest to the reader.

In terms of power, an electric tool is classified into:

• low power- from 500 to 1100 watts;
• average power - from 1200 to 1800 watts;
• high power - from 1900 to 2500 watts.

Professionals advise using low-power milling cutters for processing small workpieces, this allows you to achieve maximum convenience in work. In this case, you will have to make passes in several approaches, removing a small thickness, layer by layer. However, these routers do not lend themselves to installation on a special table. For these purposes, milling cutters with a capacity of about 2000 watts are suitable.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following capabilities of the tool:

• the maximum depth of lowering the rack;
• smooth start;
• the presence of adjustment of the spindle rotation speed;
• dynamic brake;
• maintaining the number of revolutions under load.
• chip removal system.

All of these parameters determine the quality of the hand router, which will be useful in both manual mode and machine mode.

Milling table device

Any milling table consists of the following elements:

• directly from the router itself;
• countertops;
• parallel stop;
• chip removal systems;
• boxes for storing spare parts and various cutters;
• horizontal clamp.

Depending on the functional tasks of the milling table, it can be made in the following versions:

• an attached tabletop with a router;
• stationary tabletop;
• stationary tabletop with parallel emphasis;
• stationary worktop with parallel stop, router lift, cutter cross feed.

Materials (edit)

How to make a router table? What should a person who decides on this matter have in his arsenal? First, we need a drawing of a table for a hand router. It is not difficult to find it. Therefore, it is quite possible to make a table for a hand router. There are also many detailed workshops and videos of local craftsmen showing off their creations. There are models that are so multifunctional that they combine, in addition to milling, drilling, grinding and cutting tables.

Almost any material is suitable for manufacturing. They mainly use sheets of chipboard, film faced plywood or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 8 millimeters. You will also need wood screws with a countersunk head, aluminum corners (furniture), PVA glue.

Assembly

Consider how to assemble the simplest do-it-yourself router table. Let's make it from film faced plywood. The size of the countertop is 400 millimeters wide and 400 millimeters long. A laminated board is perfect for a countertop. It has a number of advantages over plywood:

• wear-resistant surface;
• low cost;
• quick replacement.

However, we decided to make a table for a hand router from laminated plywood. We carefully cut it to the intended size. The legs will be made from the same material. It retreats from the edges by 20-30 centimeters and fasten the legs to the table top, pre-coat the joints with glue and make two or three holes for tightening the screws.

We make the following technological holes in the countertop:

• large round for the exit of the collet with a cutter;
• parallel groove for fastening the rail;
• you can make a small groove for attaching the ruler.

The rip fence can be made from the same materials as the worktop. The stop consists of two parts, the interface runs exactly in the center of the installed cutter. They must move independently of each other. To increase the milling possibilities, it is desirable that the rip fence has two degrees of freedom. That is, it could tilt relative to the tabletop, and rotate parallel to it. This will allow making products with complex shapes.

Among other things, a recess with a square-shaped cover is made on the reverse side of the parallel stop, a vacuum cleaner pipe is inserted into one end. As a rule, the chip removal system is made from two sides, one from above behind the stop, the second directly next to the mill collet.

This is the easiest table for a do-it-yourself router. In the future, you can modify and install an elevator for convenient adjustment of the cutter height and horizontal reach.

Additional accessories

Since the hand router installed in the table is electric tool, then for safety, you can mount an external switch in the table. This will allow you to conveniently and safely turn the device on and off when necessary. Here you can also install additional sockets for connecting a portable lamp or hand drill.

With sufficient free space, milling tables are made with dimensions of 1500 by 1500 millimeters and a height of one and a half meters. Complete workbenches are obtained. At the same time, pull-out shelves are made in them, in which it is convenient to store various cutters and a key for changing the spindle. The large table allows you to handle large sheets of plywood or other material so often used in furniture or doors. Such a table increases the accuracy of the processed parts and reduces the percentage of rejects in production.

Security

It is worth remembering that tables for wood cutters are sources of increased danger. The frequency of rotation of the cutter reaches 25,000 rpm. Any awkward movement will lead to irreparable consequences. Hands should be kept at the maximum safe distance from the rotating head, the cutter should be changed when the machine is stopped and de-energized.

When working, you need to wear special glasses that will protect your eyes from small chips. The noise level during operation is quite high, and appropriate precautions should be taken. Keep children away from the router.

Professional carpenters have great respect for their router tables. And it is no coincidence. After all, a convenient and properly arranged workbench is a guarantee of high productivity and an increase in the efficiency of the work process. On sale you can find models of tables for every taste, but often their cost is so high that not every craftsman can afford such a purchase.

However, everyone can make a suitable milling table on their own, adjusting it to their personal needs and habits. And you don't have to buy expensive branded products or their Chinese counterparts. With a little work, you will not only save a lot, but the main thing is that in the end you will get your own table, working at which you will be able to make exactly those joinery products that you require faster and much better.

The manufacturer cannot anticipate the needs of everyone potential buyer and incorporates basic capabilities into its products. Many of them may simply never be necessary for you, and some, which are necessary for you, may not be in the design of the table.

To make a milling table yourself, you do not need anything supernatural and too expensive. All that is needed is an electric motor, a guide structure and the table itself, a stable frame on which equipment and accessories will be fixed. And, of course, your own milling table drawing.

What is a milling machine for and what is its purpose

The principle of working with a hand-held milling tool is that the router moves over the surface of a securely fixed workpiece that needs to be processed in a certain way. The problem is that this is often not very convenient. Therefore, they resort to trick: they fix the router itself, and move the part. The resulting structure is called a "milling table".

With the help of milling tables, you can easily make shaped holes, cut grooves, reliably connect parts, for example, drawer walls, etc., perform edge profiling and many other operations that are available only in specialized carpentry workshops where there are milling machines.

Using milling tables for a hand router, you get the opportunity to process not only wood products, but also chipboard, plastic, MDF, make joints on tenons and tongues, make grooves and splines, chamfer and decorate profiles.

In addition, milling tables can be used as woodworking machines. To do this, a tool is fixed in a drill stand or on a workbench - and the machine is ready. Therefore, many companies began to produce a wide range of milling tables with a lot of additional accessories for them. However, a well-made do-it-yourself router table is in no way inferior to the branded ones, and sometimes even surpasses them.

How milling tables are arranged

To work with a hand router on a table, you can use a regular workbench or build a special table. Such a table is distinguished by a rigid structure with good stability. This is necessary in view of the strong vibrations caused by the running router. Since the tool is mounted from below, there should be nothing under the table top to interfere with the work. Only the milling cutter itself for the milling table and, if necessary, a lift device that provides accurate and smooth adjustment of the cutter lift.

The router is attached to the table with a mounting plate. The material for it must be of high quality and durable. It is best to use PCB, metal or plywood. The fastening of the plastic strip on the router base usually contains threaded connections that can be used to attach the router to the table top of the router table. On the surface of the future table, you should select a groove for the mounting plate so that the base of the router is flush. It is necessary to fasten the plate with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads so that they do not interfere with the future movement of the workpieces being processed.

The router itself is also attached to the table using countersunk screws, attaching it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes in the sole of the tool, they must be drilled by yourself. Alternatively, it is possible to use pressure devices if there is no desire to drill the milling cutter base.

On the milling table, be sure to install the on and off button of the router. It is also highly desirable to equip the table with an emergency mushroom button for the safety of the person working behind it. In order for the fastening of the workpieces to be reliable, hold down devices are arranged. Convenient to use milling Rotary table... For measurement, a ruler is usually built into the table surface.

Types of milling tables

When starting to make a milling table, you should first of all decide on a place for it in your workshop. It depends on what features you plan to use. This can be the lateral extension of the sawing machine, that is, the aggregate table.

If you only plan to work on a milling table occasionally and use it outside the workshop, build a portable table. It can always be removed or hung on the wall, thus saving space.

If there is enough space in the workshop, then a stationary table for a milling machine will be the most convenient. It can be equipped with wheels and moved as needed.

Both the portable and the stationary table can be removed for a while, but at the same time you can keep them constantly ready for certain operations. To do this, they are pre-configured.

Simple table design

If you want a device of a simple design, you can make it a small height, then fix it on an ordinary table. To do this, take chipboard sheet and a simple board to be attached to the sheet as a guide. The board should be lightweight and bolted.

After that, you need to make a hole for the cutter. In a simple design, this can be finished - the resulting design will allow you to perform simple milling operations. However, if you want to make a milling table for a more thorough work, then you will have to spend a little more time and effort.

Manufacturing the bed

For any milling machine, the bed is its frame, on which the table top is attached from above. The base can be made of any material, the main thing is that it is strong and stable. The size of the bed is selected individually, based on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on the machine.

When making the machine, it is advisable to make its lower part in such a way that the person standing in front of it does not rest their feet on the frame. To do this, the lowermost part of the bed is deepened (like with ordinary furniture) by about 10-20 centimeters.

If you plan to process door linings, then it will be appropriate to make a table 85-90 cm high, 50-55 cm deep and 150 cm wide.

For convenience, when working while standing, the height of the table is taken to be about 85-90 cm. In this case, it is advisable to use adjustable supports in the table design, which allow you to align milling tables for a hand router in the presence of unevenness in the floor or, if necessary, change the height.

Homemade table top

Since the workpieces slide well on plastic, a good option will be used as a countertop for a milling table of a kitchen panel made of chipboard with a thickness of 26-26 cm.Its depth of 60 cm will also be convenient during operation, and itself chipboard material perfectly dampens vibrations produced by the router during operation.

As a last resort, when making tables for milling machines, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF plates with a thickness of 1.6 cm or more.

Mounting plate

Because kitchen countertop has a rather large thickness, in order to maintain the amplitude of the cutter overhang, the router should be attached to the table using a mounting plate. With its small thickness, it is highly durable and reliably holds the tool without losing the cutter's working stroke.

Using a mounting plate made of textolite (fiberglass), you should cut a rectangular workpiece 5-8 mm thick and sides from 15 to 30 cm. In the center of the plate, cut a hole corresponding to the hole in the base of the milling tool. The plate is attached to the table surface, and the router is already installed on it.

We assemble a table for a router

After the frame is made, a tabletop is temporarily attached to it. A mounting plate is installed on a previously prepared place and its outline is drawn with a pencil. Then, using a hand router with a cutter with a diameter of 5-9 mm in the worktop, you should select a seat for it. The plate should fit flush and without distortion.

Corners seat must be rounded off with a file. The same operation must be carried out with the mounting plate - process its corners with the same radius as in the mounting place.

After that, you should make a through milling of the table top along the contours of the router's sole. This does not require much accuracy, but you will probably still need to select additional material from the bottom of the countertop for a dust collector and some other additional devices.

It remains to connect all the parts together. Having started the router from the bottom, we fix it on the mounting plate, then we attach the plate to the table top. We screw the tabletop to the bed already completely.

We arrange the upper clamp

As an additional safety measure and for convenience, the milling table is equipped with an upper clamp - a roller-based device made according to the drawings. When working with door trims this is especially true, as in the manufacture of dimensional parts. The design of the upper clamp is simple.

A properly sized ball bearing will fulfill the roller task. The bearing must be rigidly fixed at a certain distance from the table top so that it can securely hold down the workpiece from above.

Milling machine drive

If your choice is made simple machine, pay attention to the electric motor for it. Power is the main factor of choice. If the sampling of the tree is planned to be shallow, then the power of 500 W is quite enough for you. So that the machine does not constantly stop and meet your expectations, choose a motor with a power of 1100 watts or more. Such a drive will allow not only to calmly process any wood, but also to use various milling cutters.

A homemade milling table can be improved indefinitely, depending on your requirements and desires. But the most important thing in this is not to forget about safety and be sure to equip your machine with the means of ensuring it.

A milling machine is a professional woodworking tool that requires special installation. For installation, a milling table can serve, which is rarely found on the market, and those on the market cost a lot of money. Therefore, it is much easier to make a milling table with your own hands. It is the presence of a special machine that allows you to optimize work as much as possible, make it safe and process workpieces more quickly. This is due to the fact that it is not the tool (milling cutter) that moves along the material to be processed, but the part moves along the resulting machine. Below will be described how to make a homemade milling table.

The quality of work largely depends on the choice of a table for a milling machine.

Choice of material and table type

Professional craftsmen who are engaged in carpentry always try to make themselves a specialized milling machine. It not only simplifies the work, but also allows you to make more accurate and accurate cuts that will not differ from the factory ones. Many foreign firms offer some models of specialized machines for a milling cutter, but these models are either not thought out (not ergonomic and inconvenient), or they cost a lot of money, which will pay off for a long time. A homemade machine made for yourself will save money and will be convenient during operation. To make a machine for yourself, you must first decide on the type of its design.

As a tabletop for a milling table, MDF boards or wood of different species are usually used.

In principle, all types of machines can be roughly divided into 3 types:

• free-standing (personal, non-portable);
• portable (small portable);
• expandable (stand - wing to table).

Determining the type is quite simple, for which you need to know the operating time on the machine. For continuous and long-term work, a separate machine should be selected. In case of infrequent use of the instrument, a portable one is also suitable. An attachment or a wing to the table is suitable if there is not enough free space. The advantages of a free-standing table include the fact that during long-term work with the tool, it can be left on.

For the manufacture of machines, you can use MDF plates (on the tabletop), pine boards(relatively cheap material) or boards made of any other material. It is much easier to use MDF after all. It is the cheapest material for the production of furniture, easy to process. If the financial opportunity allows, then preference should be given to natural wood.

Special mention should be made of the metal. Some people consider metal to be the most durable material, and they are right. Metal is much stronger than wood, but it has significant drawbacks. For example, it is an ideal conductor, so it is not recommended to mount an electrical appliance on such a surface. Another disadvantage is weight. You should take care of the strength of the legs, which must withstand not only the surface of the table, but also the sum of the masses of the tool, parts and workpieces, the weight of a person. In addition, in winter, in an unheated room, the metal will be cold and create discomfort for the working master, the metal can rust. Therefore, it is highly recommended to abandon the metal.

Design details

To make a good multifunctional table, you need to know how the router works.

In order to make a good machine, you need to know how a router works, and how best to process workpieces on it.

So, a router is mainly used for processing the longitudinal edge of a part. If it is necessary to mill the grooves across the workpiece, it is recommended to provide a special groove in the design for the stop-carriage. In addition to the above function, additional clamps can be attached to the groove for better processing of the workpiece.

The work will be greatly simplified by the support placed longitudinally, which will serve as a guide for the materials to be processed. This stop must be perfectly flat and even, the working plane of the stop must be perpendicular to the plane of the table surface, and the stop itself must be movable. The latter is required to adjust to the size of the workpieces. With the correct manufacture of such an emphasis, the machine will be able not only to mill, but also to join (plan) materials. A groove should be provided in the stop, which will allow the installation of auxiliary tools. It can also provide fasteners for the vacuum cleaner hose, which, when blowing, will allow you to quickly clean the surface to be treated from shavings and sawdust, improving visibility.

A properly made milling table with metal plates will allow you to quickly change the cutter if necessary.

But the most important thing is how the router is mounted. For fastening the tool, metal countertops are usually used, which looks like a small plate that is attached to the tabletop. The router is attached to this plate with screws or bolts in specially made holes. Using such a mini-surface will save up to 1 cm of milling depth, you can quickly dismantle (mount) the tool and fix the tool more evenly to the metal tabletop.

The speed of removal of the cutter from such a plate will allow you to very quickly replace the cutter on it. There is also a gain in fastening. So, if a very careful leveling of the surface is required to fasten the tool on a wooden tabletop, it is necessary to drill holes in the right places, which for another model of the tool may not fit both in diameter and at the attachment points, then in the case of a metal mini-surface, the surface of the boards aligns only at the point of attachment of the metal sheet, the attachment points will always be static, which will allow you to quickly change the tool if necessary. Each router has its own attachment points, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with its drawings before installing it.

It is not difficult to install the router using the drawings - it is enough to drill the holes, keeping the dimensions (the distance between them).

The procedure for making a table

A properly assembled milling table can handle a variety of surfaces.

A primitive home-made table may look like this: a MDF table top, fixed on 4 legs, on (under) which the tool is installed, a board is fixed on the table top - a guide that can be fixed to the table with clamps. This is the easiest option. However, it is irrational, because part of the tabletop (at least 50%) will not be used during work, in addition, there is a high probability of an uneven installation of the router, which will cut uneven grooves. It is more rational to use such a design on a folding table wing. This will significantly save space in the workshop and efficiently use the work surface.

The next option differs from the previous one in enhanced capabilities. So, in the middle of the table, a hole is made for mounting the tool, the guide board is made with a groove for processing thin workpieces, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a groove is made (at some distance from the router), which will allow you to mill the workpieces at an angle.

The portable machine is easy to iron. Small legs are attached to the tabletop (the size is equal to the length of the router + 5-7 cm). The dimensions of the tabletop itself are minimal, allowing you to install only a router + 15-20 cm.This option will be mobile (portable), but it will be inconvenient to work on it long time... This mini machine is suitable for extremely rare tool use.

Individual workplace

Consider making a "serious" table for a router.

To begin with, it is worth mentioning the dimensions. On average, the size can be 1 x 1 or 1 x 0.7 (0.8) m. This will not only allow you to conveniently work on the table, but also place other auxiliary items on it. The bed is knocked under the tabletop (legs, which should be attached not only to the tabletop, but also have an additional tie).

Then they work on the countertop. To make it, you should knock down the boards (under right size), carefully plan them off with a plane and grind them with emery paper so that there is an almost smooth surface. Then plywood is glued to the tabletop. It will make the surface almost perfectly flat. To prevent the plywood from peeling off under the influence of vibrations, it should be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. When the glue dries up and the plywood is fixed to the tabletop with self-tapping screws, a hole is cut in the middle of the tabletop for mounting the router. The hole must have rectangular shape and have dimensions equal to the size of the router + 50-100 mm in length and width.

The surface of the milling table top must be flat and smooth.

The next step is to prepare a metal plate to which the router will be attached. It should have a size equal to the size of the hole + 2.5-3 cm in length and width. Tool attachment points are defined locally.

Next, you should install a guide board or stop. The latter is preferred. It is better to make the emphasis movable (as described above) and double, so that they can clamp the material. Mobility is provided by slots along the entire length of the table, into which metal guides are inserted. An anchor is made on the stops themselves, which will fit into the guides. It can be carved out of wood, or you can attach the wheels to the stop.

For the convenience of work, grooves are cut out in the tabletop, which will allow you to process workpieces at an angle. Their width and distance between them is determined by the master. Several tool boxes can be attached to the bed. In order for the table to have a pleasant appearance, slopes should be made on the table top and legs. and also to varnish all surfaces.

Such a table will allow you to quickly, without straining, process workpieces, which will make the processing time pleasant.

In a private household, a milling machine is always useful. The equipment is indispensable in the manufacture of various wooden products - from window frames to various small crafts. A milling machine is a support table and a milling cutter itself. If the owner already has a manual milling cutter, then you can make a milling table with your own hands.

The table is the main base of the machine. Cutters are its working bodies. With the help of these parts, many operations are performed when processing wood blanks. On a machine in wood they make longitudinal grooves, channels, vertical grooves, oval bevels and more. The table is essential for precise positioning of the cutter - both horizontally and vertically.

Milling table design

The working table of the machine must meet the following requirements:

• The standard height of the working surface ranges from 800 to 900 mm. The height of the table can be different - at the request of the owner of the workshop.
• The surface of the table must ensure smooth sliding of the wooden workpiece.
• The router should be equipped with a lift that will easily move the router vertically.
• V working area you need to install a chip and dust suction.
• The mounting plate must ensure that the router is securely attached. The thickness of the plate should allow the cutting body to extend upward as much as possible.
• The clamping parts must be such that the hands of the worker cannot accidentally fall under the cutter.
• The machine bed must be stable while still allowing the machine to be easily moved to the desired location.

Frame and table top manufacturing

In a home workshop, inexpensive auxiliary materials are often used to make the support part of the machine. To do this, take pieces of MDF, construction plywood, metal corner, hardware (bolts, screws, washers and nuts) and more.

Stanina

The supporting structure for the machine is made of timber or welded metal profile. Some craftsmen fit an old table or workbench under the bed. The most important thing in the structure of the bed is stability. During the operation of the router, various vibrational loads can occur.

If the old furniture is loosened, then it is worth installing additional hardware. To do this, use a metal corner, which is fixed in questionable structural nodes through drilled holes screws.

The most reliable structure will be a frame made of 40 × 40 mm steel angle. This requires welding machine and experience with him.

Table top

The organization of the desktop can be "spied" in videos about the operation of milling machines, published on the Internet. When manufacturing a tabletop, it is necessary to follow the requirements that ensure easy movement of the wooden workpiece and the cutter's cutting body, as well as secure fixation of the workpiece relative to the cutter.

Do-it-yourself machine assembly option

On both side ends of the table, an aluminum T-section profile is installed for fastening and free movement of a parallel stop in the form of a bar. The strip on the sides is equipped with aluminum fasteners that fit into the grooves of the side profiles.

A rectangular cutout is made in the strip for the cutter outlet. A guide profile is fixed on the part, along which the vertical and angular clamp moves. The clamps fix the passage of the wooden workpiece through the milling zone.

A parallel groove is cut in the table top - to move the cross-point slider. On one of the supports under the table top, switches are installed with an emergency stop button for the router.

The jobsite is often made from MDF and construction plywood. The surface of this material wears out quickly. More reliable tabletop - made of PCB. The textolite surface has high wear resistance and a low coefficient of friction.

The ideal option for the countertop can be a steel sheet or a plane made of aluminum alloy... Since the site must have technological grooves and holes, it will be quite difficult, and sometimes impossible, to make such a part with your own hands. A way out can be found in the use of parts of old equipment.

Router plate

An opening is cut in the center of the countertop to accommodate the build plate. It is better to make the plate from the same PCB. A round hole is made in the slab. Round inserts are made under the hole. By combining the inserts, the diameter bore for the desired cutter is selected.

The ring inserts, like the plate itself, must be flush with the entire surface of the work table. The rings ensure that the cutter fits snugly into the working area.



Milling cutter

The power plant in its functionality acts like an ordinary drill. The milling chuck clamps the milling axis and informs it rotary motion... The unit is attached to the work plate from below. When designing a table, it is imperative to take into account the preservation of space for placing the device under the table top.

A compact electric motor is used as a milling cutter. Making a homemade power tool experienced master... In some cases use electric drill... To get rid of such a problem, they purchase a ready-made manual router. In the retail network, customers are offered a wide range of hand power tools of this type.

Manual milling cutters from different manufacturers have approximately the same set of options and dimensions... The tool is mainly intended for processing wood blanks.

The milling machine allows the worker to control the machining process with two hands, and when working with hand tool, hands are busy holding the unit itself. It is advantageous to place a manual router in a homemade machine structure.

Mounting plate

The polymeric base of the router is removed and a mounting plate is cut along its circumference. The mounting plate is made of sheet metal, no more than 6 mm thick. In the work site, the mounting holes are drilled through the screws securing the router through the mounting plate.

The holes are made from the side of the working surface with sweat so that the screw heads do not protrude above the table plane.

Elevator

An elevator is a device for moving something vertically. In this case, this applies to the milling unit. The manual router is equipped with a lift. The problem of installing an elevator becomes relevant when using self-made devices as a power plant.

You can purchase a ready-made, factory-made elevator. Many options for making homemade lifting devices are published on the Internet. The main task of the hoist is to solve the exact vertical fixation of the cutter. The overhang of the taper cutting surface of the cutter determines the depth and width of the cut of wood in the workpiece.

One of the most popular DIY elevator options is to move the router on a vertical threaded metal rod.



Diagram of a homemade router elevator

A shelf is installed under the table, into which a rod with a flange nut is inserted. A flywheel is installed higher on the rod. Rotating it, they achieve the desired height of the cutter above the surface of the working table.

Rotary milling table

The rotary model of the machine is a complex structure that provides a tilt of the wooden blank in relation to the cutter. Thanks to this feature of the machine, they make wooden blanks complex shape... It is almost impossible to assemble such tables at home.



Safety when working on a homemade machine

For the safe operation of the milling machine, several safety rules must be observed:

1. The metal frame must be grounded.
2. The machine is installed in a dry ventilated area.
3. If the machine is made entirely of wood, then the router body itself is grounded.

Conclusion

Milling table DIY will save cash workshop owner. Self-made design takes into account all the individual needs of the owner of the machine, which compares favorably with ready-made options.

Professional processing and manufacturing of wooden parts is possible only with the use of a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This setup is rare and the commercially available options are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router located in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface to be treated, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives wider possibilities for processing parts. As a result, blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. Consideration should be given to the possibility of modernizing the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable to use. The presence of boxes will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade construction will replace the industrial machine

There are three main types of milling tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, as a rule, bulky and non-portable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the saw table surface.

Construction diagram

For self-made countertops, they usually use MDF boards, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some masters believe that metal table top the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will be an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, so it must be painted.

The milling table covers must be smooth. They are often made from plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening the longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and planks, these materials are reasonably priced.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the produced models of countertops are made of MDF plates or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this is not always the case.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the worktop surface. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other means to level the plate. It is better to choose an insert with replaceable rings. This is necessary in order to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the cutter diameter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the milling table working surface.

Convenient when selecting the cutter diameter

In milling operations, a rip fence is often required to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. For work to be done accurately, it must be flat along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for different processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a branch pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixable pads

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-production you can read this design.

Required tools and materials

1. Joiner's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Electric jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a table top, support and parts for a milling table will be using MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of a milling table, we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, 19x1000x1650 mm in size.
3. 1 plate, 4x30x30 mm in size.
4. Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the table top will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a solid 19 mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a substitute for this material.

• Sawed sheet material into fragments according to the indicated dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - the base of the stop; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - kerchief (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking with cutters on the surface of the table top.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template for marking

• On the largest cut-out part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make a markup for the cutter. To do this, draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle, placing a mark. Then place the overlay so that the adjustment mechanisms of the router are closer to the edge of the table. With the trim evenly positioned, mark the places for drilling the holes, which will be fixed with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the edge of the sole as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

• From the middle of the cut-off part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D / 2- (D-H).

Measurements are taken from the edge of the lining sole

• With the help of the holes in the base of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using the overlay as a template

• Drill holes for fasteners and cutters in parts # 2 and 3. At the base and front of the stop, mark out the semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut out the semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

In the diagram, semicircular cuts are not made

• Fasten four strips (part no. 7) to the underside of the tabletop with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy glue

• Glue the rest of the blanks and fix them with screws. Install a router underneath the worktop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the gantry; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - the base of the stop

• Now it is necessary to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side rack; 2 - inner rack; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

• Saw plywood into pieces according to dimensions.
• Assemble the structure of the table, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear rack

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the cover and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the milling cutter to process parts as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and outline its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the countertop, sanding the edges of the cutout.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the attachment point of the cutter and expand them on the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten with the screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help to further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut the guides from the T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stops make the process easy

• Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for attaching the hold-downs, trims and guards.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a dust extraction pipe. To do this, you need to cut out a piece of 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter fitting for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• Add a plywood and plexiglass protective shield for the stop.

For convenience, wing nuts are used

• For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. It is better to use maple wood when making a pressure-comb. To cut out a part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood grain. The crests of the ridges are best done circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Fix the guide with the clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in the places where milling work will be carried out. Clear all wooden elements dust and coat with oil.

Safety engineering

When working on milling machine accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of the processed parts flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove the entire tool from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the dispersion of particles.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective shield and measuring workpieces are not allowed. Protective goggles must be worn to avoid eye contact with emitted particles. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to embed the cutter into the part gradually. Power feed must be turned on before the part touches the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable that the hands are close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to the relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to make parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.