External wall insulation of a private house. Insulate the house outside with your own hands Procedure for insulating walls outside

In order to maintain a comfortable temperature inside the building even in the coldest winter, it is necessary to properly insulate the house. If a new building is being erected, then the insulation is carried out after the walls and roof of the building have been installed.

If the private house has been for many years, then perhaps the wall material has already lost its strength and cracks have appeared in places different sizes, which contribute to heat loss, in this case it is necessary to first seal all the cracks and irregularities, and only then proceed to work on the insulation of the house.

Insulation materials

Exists great amount materials with which you can insulate the walls of the house.
Most popular:

Expanded polystyrene

This material is the most inexpensive among outdoor insulation materials. This is not the only merit. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, which allows you to use a smaller layer of insulation, is lightweight, and can be easily cut into pieces of the required size.

The disadvantages of this insulation include low vapor permeability and high flammability. It is not advisable to use expanded polystyrene for insulation wooden houses, due to insufficient good air exchange, as a result of which the tree will be subject to decay processes.

This material is most often used for insulating brick and stone houses. A layer of insulation with a thickness of 100 mm will reduce the cost of heating the room by 5 times.

Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, which allows you to use a smaller layer of insulation, is lightweight, can be easily cut into pieces of the required size

Glass wool

This material has a large number of advantages, among which it is possible to single out a low weight, thanks to which this insulation can be used to insulate old buildings. Glass wool is not subject to decay; this material is not able to gnaw through mice.

Glass wool bends easily, so the insulation of walls, which have different roundings in their design, is not a problem. This material is made from quartz sand and cullet, which cannot but have a positive effect on the final cost of this product.

Glass wool is not without drawbacks, among which the most unpleasant is the hygroscopicity of the material. By absorbing moisture, the insulation loses to a large extent its thermal insulation properties, therefore it is undesirable to use this material for external insulation, in those places where the groundwater level is too close to the earth's surface.

If the climate in this region is too humid, then it is better to abandon the use of this insulation, or to carry out high-quality waterproofing of glass wool. Over time, glass wool fibers can stick together and shrink, which also contributes to a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

When working with this material, you should adhere to strict safety requirements, use rubberized gloves, a respirator and goggles. Penetration of tiny glass particles into the lungs and eyes can lead to undesirable consequences. If you work with this insulation without gloves, then the glass fibers can penetrate under the skin, causing prolonged irritation and tingling sensations.

Glass wool is not subject to decay, this material is not capable of gnawing mice

Stone wool

In many respects, this material resembles glass wool, but there are several fundamental differences that make this material more attractive for use in outdoor insulation at home. The manufacturing process of this material consists in drawing thin threads from the melt of rocks of the basalt group.

The threads are randomly placed in molds, in which the material is pressed under certain temperature conditions. Stone wool is a denser material in comparison with glass wool, but by its own thermal insulation characteristics is superior to this material. Stone wool is easily cut into blocks of any shape, which makes the installation process of the slabs easy and not time-consuming.

This material has a very high vapor permeability with practically no hygroscopicity. If technological mistakes were not made during the insulation, the wall will remain “breathing”. Due to the fact that this thermal insulation material has a high density, it can be easily attached to the glue, which also speeds up the installation process.

Stone wool has disadvantages, among which the most unpleasant is its high cost.

Stone wool is a denser material in comparison with glass wool, but surpasses this material in its thermal insulation characteristics.

Foil insulation

It is mainly used for warming the floor of a room, but it can also be used for thermal insulation of walls. The insulation consists of a layer of foamed polyethylene and thin aluminum foil. Due to its high heat-reflecting characteristics, this material is 2 times higher than the insulating properties of stone wool.

Foil insulation is easy to install on the wall due to its very low weight, which significantly reduces the time of work.

The disadvantage of this material is almost 100% vapor permeability.

Due to its high heat-reflecting characteristics, this material is 2 times higher than the insulating properties of stone wool

To carry out a correct installation, it is necessary to pre-level the walls so that the cork slabs are installed on the outer wall of the house without gaps. Unlike the above materials, synthetic substances are not used for the production of cork insulation, which makes cork slabs one of the most environmentally friendly materials for insulating living quarters.

This material can be used both for interior decoration and for wall insulation. Unlike glass wool, cork does not absorb moisture, which allows it to be used even in conditions of high humidity and high groundwater levels.

Even after a long time of operation, the material does not shrink, therefore the plastered surface does not deform and does not form cracks. The material does not interfere with the passage of steam, which makes it possible to use it for insulating the external facades of wooden houses. When insulating brick and stone walls, steam exchange also takes place through the pores of the walls and the insulation layer.

Cork insulation is fireproof; when exposed to high temperatures, it does not emit substances hazardous to humans. The disadvantage of cork is its high cost, which significantly exceeds the slabs of stone and glass wool similar in size.

Unlike glass wool, cork does not absorb moisture, which allows it to be used even in conditions of high humidity and high groundwater

Making a choice

In order to determine what material to use for external wall insulation, the following questions should be answered:

1. What material are the walls made of?
2. What is the humidity in the area where the house is located.
3. How high are groundwater.
4. What is the financial possibility of purchasing 1 m2.
5. How many people will be involved in the work.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, then materials such as expanded polystyrene, foil insulation and glass wool are not used.

Expanded polystyrene is combustible, which increases the fire hazard of a wooden structure.

Foil insulation almost completely seals the structure, as a result of which decay of wood and the formation of mold occurs.

With high humidity and a close location of groundwater, glass wool is not used for insulating wooden houses.

Most suitable material cork insulation is used to insulate wooden walls, but its cost is quite high, so before you go to the store to purchase this product, you should make correct calculations full cost.

Insulate wooden house with cork plates you can yourself. The cork is lightweight and is attached to the wooden base with nails or self-tapping screws.

If you want to insulate a stone or brick house outside, then expanded polystyrene is the most suitable material for this purpose.

Even if the groundwater is close to the construction site, this fact does not have negative impact on the quality of the thermal insulation layer.

As for financial costs, polystyrene foam is the most inexpensive known material for thermal insulation of walls.

For insulation of brick and stone walls, basalt slabs are used, which do not absorb moisture and have high thermal insulation properties. The price of this material is quite high, but the cost of heating a house insulated with stone wool will be significantly reduced.

Features of insulation

Foam insulation

Due to its high flammability and low vapor permeability, it is practically not used for thermal insulation work on wooden structures.

Insulation of concrete and brick walls is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The surface of the wall must be perfectly flat. Cracks, sagging and other irregularities should be sealed with sand-cement mortar.
2. After the wall has been leveled, the surface should be primed to improve adhesion. For this purpose, deep penetration primers are used. This work can be done with a roller, brush or spray gun.
3. Plates are installed after the primer layer has completely dried. Gluing foam on the wall is carried out with a special glue for expanded polystyrene or using dry mixes. The installation of the foam starts from the bottom, the rows are installed in a checkerboard pattern with a half-sheet step. If dry mixtures are used to install expanded polystyrene, then immediately before starting work, a working solution is prepared using a construction mixer or a special nozzle that is installed on a drill. The mortar is applied with a comb trowel to the wall, while you can level the wall a little by applying a larger amount of mortar where the wall has slight inward curvatures.
4. After applying the glue, the foam sheets are installed by hand. While pressing each slab to the wall, care must be taken to ensure that there is no adhesive solution in the joints between the slabs. If a gap has formed between the plates, then it must be sealed with pieces of foam or polyurethane foam.
5. After completing the installation of the plates on the adhesive base, and holding the solution for at least 3 days, the expanded polystyrene plates are additionally fixed with plastic dowels. For this purpose, 5 holes are drilled for each sheet with a depth slightly exceeding the length of the plastic dowel. One hole is drilled exactly in the middle of the sheet, four others - in the corners. Then a plastic "fungus" is installed in each hole, the cap of which should be in the same plane with the surface of the foam sheet. After installing the "fungus", a plastic nail is hammered in, which is inserted in such a way that the cap of the "fungus" is immersed inside the foam by 2 - 3 mm. After the foam is fixed, the outer surface is reinforced with plastic dowels using a plastic facade mesh and special adhesive mixtures for reinforcement. The adhesive composition is applied with a spatula on the installed foam plates in an even layer, after which a reinforcing mesh is installed in the glue layer, and the layer of solution protruding beyond its surface is leveled. Thus, the exterior walls of the house are insulated with polystyrene foam.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of the outer walls of a building with mineral wool can be done in three different ways:

1. Ventilated way- a hinged frame structure is used.
2. Well method- when implementing this method of installation, a layer of heat insulator is placed between two layers of brickwork.
3. Wet way- a layer of plaster is applied to the insulation.

When using a ventilated installation method, insulation can be carried out on wooden, concrete or brick walls. The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:

1. An adhesive base is applied to the wall.
2. A slab of mineral wool is pressed against the wall.
3. After the glue dries, the boards are additionally fixed with plastic dowels.
4. Then, with a small gap from the insulation layer, facing plates are installed on the frame.

Thus, a constant air circulation will be carried out between the mineral wool layer and the facing boards, which will prevent the formation of increased air humidity between these layers.

When erecting brick walls, the method of laying mineral wool of the "well" type is the most preferable. Old buildings can also be insulated in this way.

This method of warming is very simple, and is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Heat insulator plates are fixed to the main layer of the wall.
2. The wall is faced with silicate or ceramic bricks.

Using this method of insulating the outer walls of a building, you can obtain a high degree of thermal insulation, while the wall will be absolutely vapor-permeable.

The wet method involves applying a plaster layer over the insulation.

First, mineral wool slabs are laid on the wall in the manner described above. Then, a reinforcing plastic mesh is laid on the heat-insulating layer using an adhesive solution. Thermal insulation work is being completed, applying a plaster layer to the reinforcing mesh.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

A modern way to insulate walls is by spraying a layer of polyurethane. In terms of time, this method takes less time than the installation of various thermal insulation boards.

Spraying can be done under siding and under plaster:

1. Under the siding, brackets are first installed on the wall, on which the profile will be installed. Then a calculated layer of insulation is sprayed.
2. Under the plaster, a layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the wall in an even layer. After the foam has completely dried, the most protruding tubercles of the hardened substance are cut off. After that, a layer of special primer is applied to increase the adhesion between the layer of insulation and plaster. Then a uniform layer of plaster is applied to the insulation, into which a reinforcing plastic mesh is embedded. After the first layer of plaster is completely dry, a final, decorative layer of plaster is applied.

1. Walls insulated from the outside allow not only to keep warm, but also significantly increase the mechanical strength of the walls from the effects of negative environmental factors.
2. When used for house insulation with polyurethane foam and glass wool must use personal protective equipment.
3. When insulating external walls at a significant height, it is necessary to equip special scaffolding.
4. To purchase materials for external wall insulation, contact only in specialized outlets.

Quite a real situation - an efficient heating system has been installed and launched in a private house, but it is not possible to achieve comfortable conditions living, if the building itself does not have good thermal insulation. The consumption of any energy carriers in such a situation jumps to completely unimaginable limits, but the generated heat is completely uselessly spent on “heating the street”.

All main elements and structures of the building must be insulated. But against the general background in terms of the volume of heat loss, external walls are in the lead, and it is necessary to think about their reliable thermal insulation first of all. Insulation for the outer walls of a house nowadays is on sale in a very wide range, and you need to be able to navigate this variety, since not all materials are equally good for certain conditions.

The main methods of insulating the outer walls of the house

The main task of wall insulation is to bring the total value of their resistance to heat transfer to the calculated indicator, which is determined for a given area. We will definitely dwell on the calculation method somewhat below, after considering the physical and performance characteristics the main types of insulation. And first, you should consider the existing technologies for thermal insulation of external walls.

• Most often, they resort to external insulation of the already erected walls of the building. This approach is able to solve to the maximum extent all the main problems of thermal insulation and saving walls from freezing and the accompanying negative phenomena of damage, dampness, erosion. building material.

There are many ways of external insulation, but in private construction, two technologies are most often resorted to.

- The first is the plastering of the walls on top of the thermal insulation layer.

1 - the outer wall of the building.

2 - mounting glue, on which the thermal insulation material (pos. 3) is attached closely, without gaps. Reliable fixation, in addition, is provided by special dowels - "fungi" (pos. 4).

5 - base plaster layer with fiberglass mesh reinforcement inside (pos. 6).

7 - layer. Facade paint can also be used.

- The second is the cladding of the walls insulated from the outside decorative materials(siding, panels, " block house»Etc.) on the ventilated facade system.

1 - the main wall of the house.

2 - frame (lathing). It can be made of wooden beams or galvanized metal profiles.

3 - slabs (blocks, mats) of thermal insulation material laid between the lathing guides.

4 - waterproofing diffuse vapor permeable membrane, which also plays the role of wind protection.

5 - a structural element of the frame (in this case, a counter-lattice rail), which creates a ventilated air gap with a thickness of about 30 ÷ 60 mm.

6 - external decorative facade cladding.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

So, a plastered insulated surface (it is often called a "thermal fur coat") is quite difficult to perform independently, if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. This process is rather "dirty" and laborious, but in terms of the total cost of materials, such insulation is usually cheaper.

There is also “ A complex approach»To such external wall insulation is the use of facing facade panels, the design of which already provides for a layer of thermal insulation. Plastering works in this case it is not foreseen - after installation, it remains only to fill the seams between the tiles.

Installation of a ventilated facade practically does not involve "wet" works. But the total labor costs are very significant, and the cost of the entire set of materials will be very considerable. But on the other hand, both the insulating qualities and the effectiveness of protecting the walls from various external influences in this case are significantly higher.

• , from the side of the premises.

This approach to thermal insulation of walls raises a lot of complaints. Here, there are significant losses of living space, and difficulties in creating a full-fledged insulated layer without "cold bridges" - they usually remain in the area where walls adjoin floors and ceilings, and a violation of the optimal balance of humidity and temperatures in such a "pie".

Of course, the location of thermal insulation on the inner surface sometimes becomes almost the only available way to insulate the walls, but whenever possible, you should still give preference to external insulation.

Should you insulate the walls from the inside?

All the shortcomings and, without exaggeration, the dangers are described in great detail in a special publication of our portal.

• Thermal insulation of walls by creating a "sandwich structure »

Usually, this technology for insulating external walls is used even during the construction of a building. Several different approaches can be used here as well.

A. The walls are laid out according to the principle of a "well" and as they rise into the resulting cavity, dry or liquid (foaming and solidifying) is poured thermal insulator... This method has been used by architects for a long time, when natural materials were used for insulation - dry leaves and needles, sawdust, discarded wool residues, etc. Nowadays, of course, special thermal insulation materials are more often used, adapted for such use.

Alternatively, large walls can be used for masonry. with extensive cavities that during construction, they are immediately filled with heat-insulating material (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite sand, etc.)

B. We will omit another option both during the initial construction of the house, and, if necessary, create thermal insulation in the already erected earlier building. The bottom line is that the main wall is insulated with one or another material, which is then covered with brickwork in one or ½ brick.

Usually, in such cases, the external masonry is performed "under the jointing" and becomes the finishing facade cladding.

A significant drawback of this method, if you have to perform such insulation in an already erected house, it is imperative to expand and strengthen the foundation, since the thickness of the wall becomes significantly larger, and the load from additional brick masonry will increase markedly.

V. An insulated multilayer structure is also obtained when using fixed polystyrene foam formwork for the construction of walls.

The blocks of such expanded polystyrene formwork are somewhat reminiscent of the well-known children's construction set "LEGO" - they have spikes and grooves for quick assembly of the wall structure, into which a reinforcing belt is installed as it rises and concrete is poured. As a result, reinforced concrete walls are obtained, immediately having two - outer and inner, insulation layers. Then, on the front side of the wall, you can make thin brickwork, tiled cladding or just plastering. Almost all types of finishes are also applicable inside.

This technology is gaining popularity, although, in fairness, it should be noted that she has a lot of opponents. The main arguments are the disadvantages of expanded polystyrene from the point of view of environmental and fire safety. There are certain problems with the vapor permeability of the walls and the displacement of the dew point towards the premises due to the layer of internal insulation. But apparently everyone agrees that the walls do receive reliable thermal insulation.

What other requirements should the insulation of external walls meet?

It is clear that the thermal insulation layer on the wall, first of all, should reduce the building's heat loss to an acceptable minimum. But, fulfilling its main function, it should not allow negative moments - threats to the health of people living in the house, increased fire hazard, the spread of pathogenic microflora, dampening of structures with the onset of destructive processes in the wall material, etc.

So, from the point of view of environmental safety, synthetic-based heaters cause a lot of questions. If you read the advertising brochures of manufacturers, you can almost always come across assurances that there is no threat whatsoever. However, practice shows that most foamed polymers tend to degrade over time, and decomposition products are not always harmless.

The situation with flammability looks even more alarming - a low flammability class (G1 or G2) does not at all mean the complete safety of the material. But more often it is not even the transfer of an open flame that is terrible (most modern materials are extinguished), but the products of combustion. A sad story shows that it is the toxic poisoning by the smoke resulting from the combustion of, for example, expanded polystyrene that most often causes human casualties. And you should think carefully about what the owner is risking by arranging, for example, such thermal insulation inside the room.

A terrible picture - the burning of the insulated facade

The specific advantages and disadvantages of the main thermal insulation materials will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding section of the article.

The next important factor that must be taken into account when planning insulation. Thermal insulation of walls should maximize the "dew point" as close as possible to the outer surface of the wall, and ideally - to the outer stall of the insulation material.

The "dew point" is not a linearly changing boundary in the wall "cake", on which the transition of water from one state of aggregation to another occurs - the vapor turns into liquid condensate. And the accumulation of moisture is the soaking of walls, destruction of building material, swelling and loss of insulation qualities, a direct path to the formation and development of foci of mold or mildew, insect nests, etc.

Where can water vapor come from in the wall? It's very simple - even in the course of normal life, a person with breathing emits at least 100 g of moisture per hour. Add here wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, taking a bath or shower, preparing food or simply boiling water. It turns out that in the cold season, the saturated vapor pressure in the room is always much higher than in the open air. And if no measures are taken in the house to effectively ventilate the air, moisture seeks its way through building structures, including through walls.

This is a completely normal process., which will not do any harm if the insulation is planned and implemented correctly. But in cases where the "dew point" is shifted towards the rooms ( this is a typical flaw insulation of walls from the inside), the balance with may be violated, and the wall with insulation will begin to be saturated with moisture.

In order to minimize or completely eliminate the consequences of condensation formation, one should adhere to the rule - the vapor permeability of the wall "cake", ideally, should increase from layer to layer towards the outside. Then, with natural evaporation, excess moisture will be released into the atmosphere.

For example, the table below shows the values vapor permeable ability of basic building, insulation and finishing materials. This should help with the initial planning of thermal insulation.

Material	Vapor permeability coefficient, mg / (m * h * Pa)
Reinforced concrete	0.03
Concrete	0.03
Cement-sand mortar (or plaster)	0.09
Cement-sand-lime mortar (or plaster)	0,098
Lime-sand mortar with lime (or plaster)	0.12
Expanded clay concrete, density 800 kg / m3	0.19
Clay brick, masonry	0.11
Brick, silicate, masonry	0.11
Hollow ceramic bricks (1400 kg / m3 gross)	0.14
Hollow ceramic bricks (1000 kg / m3 gross)	0.17
Large format ceramic block (warm ceramic)	0.14
Foam concrete and aerated concrete, density 800 kg / m3	0.140
Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs, 500-450 kg / m3	0,11
Arbolit, 600 kg / m3	0.18
Granite, gneiss, basalt	0,008
Marble	0,008
Limestone, 1600 kg / m3	0.09
Limestone, 1400 kg / m3	0.11
Pine, spruce across the grain	0.06
Pine, spruce along the grain	0.32
Oak across the grain	0.05
Oak along the grain	0.3
Plywood, glued	0.02
Particleboard and fiberboard, 600 kg / m3	0.13
Tow	0.49
Drywall	0,075
Plaster boards (gypsum boards), 1350 kg / m3	0,098
Plaster boards (gypsum boards), 1100 kg / m3	0.11
Rock mineral wool, depending on the density 0.3 ÷ 0.37	0.3 ÷ 0.37
Glass mineral wool, depending on density	0.5 ÷ 0.54
Extruded expanded polystyrene (EPS, XPS)	0,005 ; 0,013; 0,004
Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), plate, density from 10 to 38 kg / m3	0.05
Cellulose ecowool (depending on density)	0.30 ÷ 0.67
Polyurethane foam, at any density	0.05
Bulk expanded clay - gravel, depending on density	0.21 ÷ 0.27
Sand	0.17
Bitumen	0,008
Roofing material, glassine	0 - 0,001
Polyethylene	0.00002 (practically impenetrable)
PVC linoleum	2E-3
Steel	0
Aluminum	0
Copper	0
Glass	0
Block foam glass	0 (rarely 0.02)
Bulk foam glass	0.02 ÷ 0.03
Bulk foam glass, density 200 kg / m3	0.03
Glazed ceramic tile (tile)	≈ 0
OSB (OSB-3, OSB-4)	0,0033-0,0040

Let's take a look at the diagram for example:

1 - the main wall of the building;

2 - a layer of thermal insulation material;

3 - a layer of external finishing of the facade.

Blue wide arrows - the direction of diffusion of water vapor from the room towards the street.

On a fragment "a" shows a camp that is very likely to always remain raw. The vapor permeability of the materials used will decrease towards the street, and free vapor diffusion will be very limited, if not completely stopped.

Fragment "B"- insulated and finished wall, in which the principle of enlargement is observed vapor permeable ability of layers - excess moisture evaporates freely into the atmosphere.

Of course, not in all cases, for one reason or another, it is possible to achieve such ideal conditions. In such situations, it is necessary to try as much as possible to provide for the release of moisture, but if the external decoration of the walls is planned with a material whose vapor permeability is close to zero, then it would be best to mount the so-called "ventilated facade"(pos. 4 in the fragment "v"), which was already mentioned in the article.

If thermal insulation is installed from not letting in pairs materials, the situation is more complicated here. We will have to provide for a reliable vapor barrier, which will exclude or minimize the likelihood of vapor ingress from the inside of the room to the wall structure (some heaters themselves are a reliable barrier to vapor penetration). And yet, it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely prevent the "conservation" of moisture in the wall.

Natural questions may arise - but what about in the summer, when the pressure of water vapor on the street often exceeds that inside the house? Will there be reverse diffusion?

Yes, there will be such a process to a certain extent, but there is no need to be afraid of this - in conditions of high summer temperatures, active evaporation of moisture occurs, and the wall will not be able to get saturated with water. When the moisture balance is normalized, the wall structure will return to its normal dry state. And the temporarily high humidity does not pose a particular threat - it is more dangerous at low temperatures and freezing of walls - then the condensation reaches its peak. In addition, in the summer, windows or vents are constantly open in most houses, and there will simply not be any significant vapor pressure drop for abundant reverse diffusion.

In any case, no matter how high-quality the thermal insulation is, and no matter how optimally it is located, the most effective measure for normalizing the humidity balance is effective ventilation of the premises. The vent located in the kitchen or in the bathroom cannot cope with such a task on its own!

It is interesting that the issue of ventilation began to be raised with such urgency relatively recently - with the beginning of the mass installation by apartment owners of metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows and doors with hermetic seals around the perimeter. In houses of the old construction, wooden windows and doors were a kind of "ventilation channel", and together with vents to some extent coped with the task of air exchange.

Ventilation - special attention!

Obvious signs of insufficient ventilation in the apartment - abundant condensation on the glass and damp spots in the corners window slopes... and how to deal with it - in a separate publication of our portal.

What materials are used to insulate external walls

Now let's move on to, in fact, the consideration of the main materials that are used to insulate the outer walls of the house. The main technical and operational parameters will usually be presented in the form of tables. And attention in the text will be focused on the features of the material in terms of its use in this particular area.

Bulk materials

For wall insulation, subject to certain conditions, materials can be used that fill the cavities inside the wall structure, or they are used to create light solutions with thermal insulation qualities.

Expanded clay

Of all the materials of this type, expanded clay is the most famous. It is obtained by special preparation of special types of clay and subsequent firing of clay pellets at temperatures over 1100 degrees. Such a thermal effect leads to the phenomenon of pyroplastics - an avalanche-like gas formation due to the water present in the raw material and the decomposition products of the components. As a result, a porous structure is obtained that provides good thermal insulation properties, and clay sintering gives granules a high surface strength.

After receiving finished products it is sorted by size - fractions. Each of the fractions has its own indicators of bulk density and, accordingly, thermal conductivity.

Material parameters	Expanded clay gravel 20 ÷ 40 mm	Expanded clay crushed stone 5 ÷ 10 mm	Expanded clay sand or sand-crushed stone mixture 0 ÷ 10 mm
Bulk density, kg / m³	240 ÷ 450	400 ÷ 500	500 ÷ 800
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / m × ° С	0.07 ÷ 0.09	0.09 ÷ 0.11	0.12 ÷ 0.16
Water absorption,% by volume	10 ÷ 15	15 ÷ 20	no more than 25
Weight loss,%, during freezing cycles (at standard brand frost resistance F15)	no more than 8	no more than 8	not regulated

What are the advantages of expanded clay as an insulation material:

• Ceramite is distinguished by its high environmental friendliness - no chemical compounds are used in its manufacture .
• An important quality is the fire resistance of the material. It does not burn itself, does not spread flame, and when exposed to high temperatures does not emit substances harmful to human health .
• Expanded clay will never become a breeding ground for any forms of life, and besides, insects bypass it .
• Despite the hygroscopicity, decay processes in the material will not develop .
• The prices for the material are quite reasonable, affordable for most consumers.

Among the shortcomings, the following can be noted:

• High-quality insulation will require a fairly thick
• Wall insulation is possible only by creating a multi-layer structure with cavities inside or using large hollow blocks in the construction. Warming the walls of a previously built house in this way - NS This is a very large-scale and costly event that is unlikely to be cost-effective.

Expanded clay is poured into the cavity in a dry form, or it is poured in the form of a light concrete solution ( expanded clay concrete).

Vermiculite

A very interesting and promising insulation material is vermiculite. Get it by heat treatment a special rock - hydromica. The high moisture content in the raw material leads to the effect of pyroplastic, the material rapidly increases in volume (swells), forming porous and layered granules of various fractions.

Such structural structure and predetermines high rates of resistance to heat transfer. The main characteristics of the material are shown in the table:

Options	Units	Characteristic
Density	kg / m³	65 ÷ 150
Coefficient of thermal conductivity	W / m × ° K	0.048 ÷ 0.06
Melting temperature	° C	1350
Thermal expansion coefficient		0,000014
Toxicity		not toxic
Colour		Silver, golden, yellow
Application temperature	° C	-260 to +1200
Sound absorption coefficient (at a sound frequency of 1000 Hz)		0.7 ÷ 0.8

Along with a lot of advantages, vermiculite has one very significant drawback - the price is too high. So, one cubic meter of dry material can cost 7 or more thousand rubles (you can find offers that even exceed 10 thousand). Naturally, it is extremely ruinous to use it in its pure form for filling in a cavity. Therefore, the optimal solution seems to be to use vermiculite as a component in the manufacture of "warm plaster".

Quite often “warm plaster” is enough for high-quality thermal insulation

Such a plaster layer gives the walls good thermal insulation qualities, and in some cases such insulation will even be quite enough.

By the way, the material has a high vapor permeability, so these can be used on any wall surfaces with almost no restrictions.

They are quite applicable for interior decoration. So, warm plasters with vermiculite can be prepared both on the basis of cement and on the basis of gypsum - depending on the specific conditions of their use. Moreover, such a wall covering will give them an increased fire resistance - even a wooden wall covered with vermiculite plaster will be able to withstand the "pressure" of an open flame for a certain time.

Another material obtained by heat treatment of rocks. The raw material in this case is perlite - volcanic glass. When exposed to high temperatures, the particles of this rock swell, porousize, forming extremely light porous sand with a specific gravity of only about 50 kg / m³.

Low density and gas content perlite sand is what is required for effective thermal insulation. The main properties of the material, depending on the brand in terms of bulk density, are given in the table;

The name of indicators	Sand grade by bulk density
	75	100	150	200
Bulk density, kg / m3	Up to 75 inclusive	Over 75 and up to 100 inclusive	Over 100 and up to 150 inclusive	Over 150 and up to 200 inclusive
Thermal conductivity at a temperature of (20 ± 5) ° С, W / m × ° С, no more	0,047	0,051	0,058	0,07
Humidity,% by mass, no more	2, 0	2	2.0	2.0
Compressive strength in the cylinder (determined by the fraction 1.3-2.5mm), MPa (kgf / cm2), not less	Not standardized			0.1

This material is also popular due to its relatively low price, which cannot be compared with the same vermiculite. True, the technological and operational qualities are worse here.

One of the disadvantages of perlite when used dry is its extremely high moisture absorption- it is not for nothing that it is often used as an adsorbent. The second drawback is that extremely fine fractions, almost powder, are always present in the composition of sand, and work with the material, especially in open conditions, even with a very weak breeze - it is extremely difficult. However, there will be enough trouble in the room, since it generates a lot of dust.

A common area of ​​application for perlite sand is the production of lightweight concrete mortars with thermal insulation qualities. Another typical use is mixing masonry compounds. The use of such solutions when laying walls minimizes the effect of cold bridges at the seams between bricks or blocks.

Expanded perlite sand is also used in the production of ready-made dry mixes - “warm plasters”. These building and finishing compositions are rapidly gaining popularity, since, simultaneously with giving the walls additional insulation, they immediately perform a decorative function.

Video - Review of "warm plaster" THERMOVER

Mineral wool

Of all the insulation materials used, mineral wool is likely to take the first place in the category of assessment "availability - quality". This is not to say that the material is devoid of flaws - there are many of them, but for thermal insulation of walls it often becomes the best option.

In residential construction, as a rule, two types of mineral wool are used - glass wool and basalt (stone). Their comparative characteristics are indicated in the table, and a more detailed description of the advantages and disadvantages follows.

Parameter name		Stone (basalt) wool
Limiting temperature of application, ° С	from -60 to +450	up to 1000 °
Average fiber diameter, μm	from 5 to 15	from 4 to 12
Material hygroscopicity in 24 hours (no more),%	1.7	0,095
Taunt	Yes	No
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K)	0.038 ÷ 0.046	0.035 ÷ 0.042
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.8 to 92	from 0.75 to 95
The presence of a binder,%	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Release of harmful substances during combustion	Yes	Yes
Heat capacity, J / kg × ° K	1050	1050
Vibration resistance	No	moderate
Elasticity,%	there is no data	75
Sintering temperature, ° С	350 ÷ 450	600
Fiber length, mm	15 ÷ 50	16
Chemical stability (weight loss),% in water	6.2	4.5
Chemical stability (weight loss),% in an alkaline environment	6	6.4
Chemical stability (weight loss),% in an acidic environment	38.9	24

This material is obtained from quartz sand and broken glass. The raw material is melted, and thin and rather long fibers are formed from this semi-liquid mass. Next, there is the formation of sheets, mats or blocks of various densities (from 10 to 30 kg / m³), ​​and in this form glass wool is supplied to the consumer.

• it is very plastic, and when packed it is easily compressed to small volumes - this simplifies both transportation and delivery of material to the place of work. After removing the packaging, the mats or blocks are straightened to the intended size. Low density and, accordingly, low weight - this is ease of installation, there is no need to strengthen walls or ceilings - the additional load on them will be insignificant .
• it is not afraid of chemical attack, it does not rot and does not melt. Rodents do not particularly "like" it, it will not become a breeding ground for domestic microflora .
• It is convenient to place glass wool between the frame guides, and the elasticity of the material opens up the possibility of thermal insulation of complex, including curved surfaces .
• The abundance of raw materials and the relative ease of manufacturing glass wool make this material one of the most affordable in terms of cost.

Disadvantages of glass wool:

• The fibers of the material are long, thin and brittle, and, as is typical of any glass, they have sharp cutting edges. They certainly won't be able to make a cut, but they can cause persistent skin irritation. It is even more dangerous if these small fragments get into the eyes, on the mucous membranes or in the respiratory tract. When working with such mineral wool, compliance with increased safety rules is required - protection of the skin of the hands and face, eyes, respiratory organs .

The very high probability of fine glass dust getting into the room, where it can be transported in suspension with air currents, makes the use of glass wool for interior work very undesirable.

• absorbs water quite strongly and, being saturated with moisture, partially loses its insulating qualities. Necessarily provides for either hydro-vapor insulation of the insulation, or the possibility of its free ventilation .
• Over time, glass wool fibers can sinter, stick together - nothing unusual, since glass is an amorphous material. Mats become thinner and denser, lose their thermal insulation properties .
• Formaldehyde resins are used as a binder that holds fine fibers in a single mass. No matter how the manufacturers assure the complete environmental safety of their products, the release of free formaldehyde, which is extremely harmful to human health, goes on constantly, throughout the entire period of operation of the material.

Of course, there are certain standards of sanitary compliance, and conscientious manufacturers try to adhere to them. For quality material, there must be appropriate certificates - it will never be superfluous to demand them. But all the same, the presence of formaldehyde is another reason not to use glass wool indoors.

Basalt wool

This insulation is made from molten rocks of the basalt group - hence the name "stone wool". After the fibers are pulled, they are formed into mats, creating a chaotic structure rather than a layered structure. After processing, blocks and mats are additionally pressed under certain thermal conditions. This predetermines the density and clear "geometry" of the manufactured products.

• Even in appearance, basalt wool looks denser. Its structure, especially in high-density grades, is sometimes even closer to felt. But the increased density does not at all mean a decrease in thermal insulation qualities - basalt wool in this is not inferior to glass wool, and often even surpasses it .
• The situation is much better with hygroscopicity. Some brands of basalt wool, due to special processing, are even close to hydrophobicity. .
• Clear the shapes of blocks and panels make the installation of such mineral wool quite simple. If necessary, the material is easily cut to the required size. True, it will be difficult to work with it on surfaces of complex configuration. .
• Stone wool has excellent vapor permeability, and with proper installation of thermal insulation, the wall will remain "breathing".
• The density of basalt mineral wool blocks makes it possible to mount it on building glue, ensuring maximum adhesion to the insulated surface - this is extremely important for high-quality thermal insulation. In addition, on such cotton wool, you can immediately, after reinforcement, lay a plaster layer .

• Basalt wool fibers are not so brittle and prickly, and it is much easier to work with it in this regard. True, security measures will not be superfluous.

The disadvantages include:

• Although basalt insulation, of course, will not become a breeding ground for rodents, it is not with great pleasure that they arrange their nests in it.
• There is no escape from the presence of formaldehyde - everything is exactly the same as in glass wool, maybe to a slightly lesser extent.
• The cost of such insulation is significantly higher than glass wool.

Video - Useful information about basalt mineral wool « TechnoNIKOL»

What's the conclusion? Both the one and the other mineral wool is quite suitable for thermal insulation of walls, if all conditions are met so that it is not actively saturated with moisture and has the opportunity to "ventilate". The optimal place for its placement is the outside of the walls, where it will create effective insulation and will not do much harm to people living in the house.

The use of mineral wool for internal insulation should, if possible, be avoided.

It can be noted that there is another type of mineral wool - slag. But it was deliberately not included in the detailed review, since it is of little use for insulating a residential building. Of all the types, it is most prone to moisture absorption and shrinkage. The high residual acidity of the slag wool leads to the activation of corrosion processes in the materials covered by it. And the purity of the feedstock - blast furnace slag - also raises a lot of doubts.

Insulation polystyrene group

Thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene can also be classified as the most commonly used. But if you look closely at them, then they will raise a lot of questions.

Expanded polystyrene is presented in two main types. The first is unpressed expanded polystyrene, which is more often called polystyrene foam (PBS). The second is more modern version, material obtained by extrusion technology (EPPS). To start - comparison table materials.

Material parameters	Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)	Styrofoam
Thermal conductivity coefficient (W / m × ° С)	0.028 ÷ 0.034	0.036 ÷ 0.050
Water absorption in 24 hours in% of volume	0.2	0.4
Ultimate bending strength MPa (kg / cm²)	0.4 ÷ 1	0.07 ÷ 0.20
Compressive strength 10% linear deformation, not less than MPa (kgf / cm²)	0.25 ÷ 0.5	0.05 ÷ 0.2
Density (kg / m³)	28 ÷ 45	15 ÷ 35
Working temperatures	-50 to +75

Styrofoam

It would seem that the familiar white foam plastic is an excellent material for wall insulation. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, light and fairly strong blocks of clear shapes, ease of installation, a wide range of thicknesses, affordable price - all these are indisputable advantages that attract many consumers.

Most controversial material - foam

However, before deciding to insulate the walls with foam, you need to think very well and assess the danger of such an approach. There are many reasons for this:

• Odds T The thermal conductivity of the foam is really "enviable". But this is only in its original dry state. The very structure of the foam is air-filled balls glued together, suggesting the possibility of significant moisture absorption. So, if you immerse a piece of foam in water for a certain time, then it can absorb 300 or more% of water about its mass. Of course, thermal insulation qualities are sharply reduced in this case. .

And with all this, the vapor permeability of the PBS is low, and the walls insulated with it will not have normal vapor exchange.

• Do not believe that foam is a very durable insulation. The practice of using it shows that after a few years, destructive processes begin - the appearance of shells, cavities, cracks, an increase in density and a decrease in volume. Laboratory studies of the fragments damaged by such a kind of "corrosion" showed that the total resistance to heat transfer has decreased by almost eight times! Is it worth starting such insulation, which will have to be changed after 5 - 7 years?
• Polyfoam cannot be called safe from a sanitary point of view. This material belongs to the group of equilibrium polymers, which even in favorable conditions can go through depolymerization - decomposition into components. At the same time, free styrene is released into the atmosphere - a substance that poses a danger to human health. Exceeding the maximum permissible concentration of styrene causes heart failure, affects the state of the liver, and leads to the onset and development of gynecological diseases.

This depolymerization process is activated as the temperature and humidity rise. So using foam for indoor insulation is extremely risky.

• And, finally, the main danger is the instability of the material to fire. It is impossible to call polystyrene a non-combustible material; under certain conditions, it actively burns with the release of extremely toxic smoke. Even a few breaths can lead to thermal and chemical burns of the respiratory system, toxic damage to the nervous system and lethal outcome... Unfortunately, there is a lot of sad evidence of this.

It is for this reason that foam has not been used for a long time in the production of railway cars and other vehicles. In many countries, it is simply banned in construction, moreover in any form - conventional insulation boards, sandwich panels or even permanent formwork. A house insulated with polystyrene can turn into a "fire trap" with almost zero chances of saving the people remaining in it.

Extruded polystyrene foam

A number of disadvantages of polystyrene were eliminated by the development of a more modern type of expanded polystyrene. It is obtained by a complete melt of the feedstock with the addition of certain components, followed by foaming the mass and pressing through molding nozzles. As a result, a finely porous homogeneous structure is obtained, and each air bubble is completely isolated from the neighboring ones.

This material is distinguished by increased mechanical strength in compression and bending, which significantly expands the scope of its application. Thermal insulation qualities are much higher than that of polystyrene, plus EPPS practically does not absorb moisture, and its thermal conductivity does not change.

The use of carbon dioxide or inert gases as a blowing component sharply reduces the possibility of ignition by flame. However, there is still no need to talk about complete safety in this matter.

Such expanded polystyrene has a higher chemical stability, to a lesser extent "poisons the atmosphere". Its service life is calculated for several decades.

EPPS is practically impervious to water vapor and moisture. This is not a very good quality for the walls. True, it can be used with some caution for internal insulation - in this case, with proper installation, it simply will not allow saturated vapors to penetrate to the wall structure. If the EPS is mounted outside, then this should be done on an adhesive composition so as not to leave a gap between it and the wall, and to perform the external cladding according to the principle of a ventilated facade.

The material is actively used for thermal insulation of loaded structures. It is perfect for warming a foundation or a basement - strength will help to cope with the load of the soil, and water resistance in such conditions is generally an invaluable advantage.

The foundation requires insulation!

Many people forget about this, and to some it generally seems to be some kind of whim. For what, and how to do it with the help of EPSS - in a special publication of the portal.

But from the general chemical composition There is nowhere to go, and it was not possible to get rid of the highest toxicity during combustion. Therefore, all warnings regarding the danger of expanded polystyrene in a fire fully apply to EPS.

Polyurethane foam

Wall insulation by spraying (PPU) is considered one of the most promising areas in construction. In terms of its thermal insulation qualities, PU foam is significantly superior to most other materials. Even a very small layer of 20 — 30mm can give a tangible effect.

Material characteristics	Indicators
compressive strength (N / mm²)	0.18
Flexural strength (N / mm²)	0.59
Water absorption (% of volume)	1
Thermal conductivity (W / m × ° K)	0,019-0,035
Closed cell content (%)	96
Foaming agent	CO2
Flammability class	B2
Fire resistance class	G2
Application temperature from	+10
Application temperature from	-150oС to + 220oС
Application area	Heat, hydro and cold insulation of residential and industrial buildings, tanks, ships, wagons
Effective service life	30-50 years old
Moisture, aggressive media	Resilient
Ecological cleanliness	Safe. Approved for use in residential buildings. Used in the manufacture of food refrigerators
Loss time (seconds)	25-75
Water vapor permeability (%)	0.1
Cellularity	closed
Density (kg / m3)	40-120

Polyurethane foam is formed by mixing several components - as a result, from the interaction with each other and with atmospheric oxygen, the material foams, its volume increases. The applied polyurethane foam quickly hardens, forming a durable waterproof shell. The highest adhesion rates allow spraying on almost any surface. Foam fills even the smallest cracks and depressions, creating a seamless, monolithic "fur coat".

By themselves, the starting components are quite toxic, and working with them requires increased precautions. However, after the reaction and subsequent solidification, within a few days, all hazardous substances completely evaporate, and the PUF will no longer pose any danger.

It has a fairly high resistance to fire. Even when thermally decomposed, it does not release products capable of causing toxic damage. For these reasons, it was he who replaced expanded polystyrene in mechanical engineering and in the production of household appliances.

It would seem an ideal option, but again the problem rests on the complete lack of vapor permeability. So, for example, spraying polyurethane foam on a wall made of natural wood can "kill" it for several years - moisture that has no outlet will inevitably lead to the decomposition of organic matter. But getting rid of the applied layer will be almost impossible. In any case, if PPU spraying is used for insulation, the requirements for effective ventilation of premises increase.

Of the shortcomings, one more circumstance can be noted - in the process of applying the material, it is impossible to achieve a smooth surface. This will create certain problems if contact finishing is planned on top - plaster, cladding, etc. Leveling the surface of the cured foam to the required level is a difficult and time-consuming task.

And one more conditional drawback of wall insulation of PPU walls is the impossibility of independently carrying out such work. It necessarily requires special equipment and equipment, sustainable technological skills. In any case, you will have to resort to calling a team of specialists. The material itself is not cheap, plus the production of work - in total, very serious costs can be obtained.

Video - An example of spraying polyurethane foam on the external walls of a house

Ecowool

Many have not even heard of this insulation and do not consider it as an option for thermal insulation of external walls. And completely in vain! In a number of positions, ecowool is ahead of other materials, becoming almost an ideal solution to the problem.

Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers - wood waste and waste paper are used. Raw materials undergo high-quality preliminary processing - with fire retardants for fire resistance and boric acid - to give the material pronounced antiseptic qualities.

Specifications	Parameter values
Composition	cellulose, mineral anipirent and antiseptic
Density, kg / m ³	35 ÷ 75
Thermal conductivity, W / m × ° K	0.032 ÷ 0.041
Vapor permeability	walls "breathe"
Fire safety	hardly flammable, no smoke formation, combustion products are harmless
Filling voids	fills all the cracks

Ecowool is usually sprayed on the walls - for this, in a special installation, the material is mixed with an adhesive mass, and then, under pressure, enters the sprayer. As a result, a coating is formed on the walls, which has very decent indicators of resistance to heat transfer. Ecowool can be applied in several layers, achieving the required thickness. The process itself is very fast. At the same time, certain protective equipment is certainly needed, but it is not as "categorical" as, say, when working with glass wool or when spraying polyurethane foam.

Ecowool itself is not dangerous for people. Boric acid in its composition can cause skin irritation only with prolonged direct contact. But on the other hand, it becomes an insurmountable obstacle for mold or fungus, for the appearance of insect or rodent nests.

Ecowool has excellent vapor permeability, "canning" in the walls will not occur. True, the material is quite hygroscopic, and requires reliable protection from direct ingress of water - for this it must be covered with a diffuse membrane.

Ecowool is also used according to the "dry" technology - it is poured into the cavity of building structures. True, experts note that in this case it will have a tendency to caking and loss in volume and in insulating qualities. For walls, spraying is still the best choice.

What about the disadvantages?

• It is impossible to immediately plaster or paint a surface insulated with ecowool - it is required on top of this or that material.
• Spraying ecowool will require special equipment. The material itself is quite inexpensive, but with the involvement of specialists, the cost of such insulation will increase.

Video - Thermal insulation of walls with ecowool

By the totality of all its positive and negative qualities, ecowool is seen as the most promising option for insulating external walls.

What thickness of insulation is required?

If the owners of the house have decided on the insulation, then it's time to find out what thickness of thermal insulation will be optimal. Too thin a layer will not be able to exclude significant heat loss. Excessively thick is not very useful for the building itself, and will entail unnecessary costs.

The calculation method with an acceptable simplification can be expressed by the following formula:

Rsum= R1+ R2+… + Rn

Rsum- total resistance to heat transfer of a multilayer wall structure. This parameter is calculated for each region. There are special tables, but you can use the diagram below. In our case, the upper value is taken - for the walls.

Resistance value Rn Is the ratio of the thickness of the layer to the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which it is made.

Rn= δn/ λn

δn- layer thickness in meters.

λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity.

As a result, the formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation appears as follows:

δut= (Rsum- 0.16 - δ1/ λ1- δ2/ λ2-… - δn/ λn) × λout

0,16 - this is an average calculation of the thermal resistance of air on both sides of the wall.

Knowing the parameters of the wall, measuring the thickness of the layers and taking into account the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation, it is easy to carry out independent calculations. BUT, to make it easier for the reader, a special calculator is placed below, which already contains this formula.

Evgeny Sedov

When hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

The facade of residential buildings cannot always withstand winter frosts and piercing winds, which makes you feel cold inside the building. Insulating a house from the outside will help protect the building from moisture, keeping hot air indoors. In the article you will learn what wall insulation is outside, how to increase the temperature inside a wooden house, and what is the difference between thermal insulation with mineral wool and foam.

What is wall insulation

A common way to save energy is insulation - thermal insulation for walls outside or inside a building, made with special materials. By insulating the façade of the apartment, you will get rid of the fungus, increase the noise protection, and establish thermoregulation - it will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Insulation not only becomes a barrier between cold air and the internal microclimate of the home, but also protects the building from moisture and sun, increasing its service life.

Ways of insulating walls outside

Distinguish between internal and external insulation walls of the house. The second type of thermal insulation is more effective than the first, since it does not reduce the area of ​​the room, it removes condensate from interior walls, keeps warm longer. There are four methods of facade insulation:

1. facing - a method that combines thermal insulation with decorative trim;
2. hinged - an expensive method in which insulated structures made of steel sheets and a layer of cladding (plastic siding, wooden lining, blockhouse);
3. "Wet" - a method that involves fixing foam on the facade with glue, applying a mesh, finishing primer and plaster;
4. spraying liquid insulation - polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the facade, applied to it decorative coating or hinged panels.

House insulation

Up to 50% goes through the wall facade home warmth, therefore, house insulation is a necessary procedure for those who want to maintain a comfortable microclimate in their homes and save on electricity. When choosing insulation for the walls of the house outside, you should focus on the wall material, since different insulation technologies are used for concrete, brick, wooden and block structures. It is cheaper to insulate a private house than an apartment in a multi-storey building.

Insulation of apartments

If you live in an apartment building with a central heating system, the outside insulation of the apartment is the best option, which will help to avoid the additional costs of maintaining a comfortable room temperature using electricity. By insulating the apartment, you can solve the problem of sealing joints in panel skyscrapers. Not all residents of a multi-storey building agree to insulate their dwellings, therefore, apartments are often insulated pointwise, which can lead to the destruction of the main wall at the joints with the insulated surface.

Insulation for walls

It is necessary to choose the right materials for wall insulation outside, taking into account what the building is built from, how many floors it has, what climatic features of the area. The microclimate of the room depends entirely on the choice of materials and the quality of installation. Heaters are distinguished according to the following criteria:

• thermal conductivity;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• soundproofing;
• air tightness;
• waterproofness;
• environmental safety;
• biostability.

External insulation gives the desired result only if the thermal insulation materials fit tightly to the frame of the room, without air gaps. There are such types of insulation for walls outside:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose.

Foam insulation

Wall insulation with foam plastic is gaining more and more popularity. This material is lightweight, inexpensive, and easy to work with. The obvious advantages of foam are moisture resistance, high sound insulation, excellent thermal insulation properties. The disadvantages of the material are the ability to ignite with the release of toxic substances, fragility, poor air permeability. Before installation, you need to draw horizontal lines of the working surface, which will become the lower and upper edges of the placement of the insulation. The foam is fixed on a special adhesive solution.

Mineral wool insulation

A common method of thermal insulation is wall insulation with mineral wool. It is a fibrous material made from mineral raw materials, non-flammable, good air permeability. Minvata is suitable for installation on all types of building structures. The material is resistant to corrosive substances, but absorbs water, so it needs a special waterproofing system. Mineral wool has a long service life - up to 70 years.

Warming with expanded polystyrene

One of the best methods of thermal insulation is considered to be the insulation of the building from the outside with pressed polystyrene foam, the second name of which is "Penoplex". The material is slightly denser than polystyrene, less flammable, durable. Expanded polystyrene is waterproof, resistant to deformation. One of the downsides is poor sound insulation. Penoplex is produced in the form of plates, which must be fastened without gaps in order to protect the insulation from damage by rodents.

Wall insulation with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of the house outside with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying the material onto the prepared facade. The use of this substance as a heater has the following advantages:

• expanding material fills cracks and small depressions;
• polyurethane foam has good adhesion - it adheres perfectly to the base, covering the surface without joints, with a continuous layer;
• the substance becomes strong after hardening;
• it has increased moisture resistance;
• polyurethane foam serves as an excellent sound insulator.

Warming with basalt slabs

Reliable insulation of the outer walls of the house is provided by environmentally friendly basalt slabs made of mineral wool. The material does not catch fire, has excellent windproof and cold-resistant properties, does not accumulate moisture. The implementation of thermal insulation with basalt slabs allows you to carry out almost any facade decoration. The installation of the material has a simple technology, so you can do it yourself. The outer thickness of the material is deceiving - you can even cut it with a kitchen knife.

How to insulate a house from the outside and what

External wall insulation will significantly reduce heat loss inside the room. The choice of materials and technology for thermal insulation depends on the specific conditions - the house is made of brick or wood, the attic or basement will be insulated. Having insulated the facade correctly, you will make your home warm, protect the room from the formation of fungus, mold, dampness and isolate the home from extraneous street noise.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what

A house made of wood has some advantages over a stone house or a brick building - the cost is lower, the environmental friendliness is higher. The main disadvantages are: low thermal conductivity of the timber, small wall thickness and the presence of cracks between them. Insulation of the walls of a wooden house can be carried out by erecting a hinged ventilation facade with mineral wool, spraying polyurethane or sheathing the facade with expanded polystyrene. Insulating Vacation home made of wood, you need to take care of the vapor barrier and waterproofing. Insulation for the outer walls of the house will allow:

• transform the facade;
• protect the tree from the adverse effects of the environment;
• increase thermal efficiency;
• save the internal space of rooms;
• prevent the occurrence of dampness, mold;
• protect from cold winds.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside using modern methods

In order to maintain a stable comfortable temperature in the house throughout the year, it is recommended to insulate the brick walls from the outside. When choosing a heater, one should take into account which brick the building is built from (hollow, solid, ceramic, silicate). Brick houses are often insulated using a hinged ventilated facade or a "wet" method. Mineral wool, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene are used as insulation.

How to insulate the walls of the house outside inexpensively

Often people wonder how to cheaply insulate a house from the outside. If you do not know how it is cheaper to insulate a house from the outside, pay attention to polystyrene foam. This insulation, perhaps, is slightly inferior to others in terms of thermal insulation, but it does a good job of maintaining a comfortable temperature. The material has excellent thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, its main disadvantage is flammability. It is easy to work with polystyrene, so you can buy material and try to insulate the house yourself, saving also on paying for the work of the craftsmen.

Price for wall insulation outside

Thermal insulation of housing is not a cheap pleasure. If we calculate the cost of heating a building with electricity, it becomes clear that the price of the service will soon pay for itself. The calculation of the cost of thermal insulation is carried out taking into account the selected materials, the complexity of the work, the size of the insulated area. Find out in the table below how much it costs to insulate a house outside in Moscow, and how the price of the service differs in different construction companies.

The Russian climatic situation, perhaps, is not so different from the situation of others Nordic countries... But people living in private housing are not up to abstract encyclopedic research. They need high-quality insulation of their homes so as not to suffer from the cold and not lose too much money when buying fuel for stoves or paying for electric heating.

Pros and cons of outdoor insulation

First of all, you need to figure out - is it really necessary, this is the very facade insulation. It always has at least one positive side, it is that the entire thickness of the wall is insulated. The elimination of heating of its individual parts initially solves the problem with the formation of condensate inside, with "crying" surfaces in the house. Engineers claim (and reviews confirm their assessment) that insulating buildings from the outside allows you to leave the internal space intact. It will not be wasted on very thick and not always beautiful looking designs.

Before rejoicing and looking for SNiP, suitable for a particular home, you should pay attention to the potential disadvantages. Obviously, such work will not work in any weather: rain and wind, and sometimes cold, do not allow you to do it efficiently. The total cost of such a finish turns out to be very high, for many people such costs are unbearable. The severity of external conditions limits the choice of insulation materials or forces the creation of protective structures. And besides, if the house is divided into two halves, there is no point in insulating only one of them from the outside, heat loss will decrease only slightly.

The ways

So, the insulation of the walls of a private house from the outside has much more pluses than minuses. But it is important to understand the features of individual materials and designs.

Houses made of expanded clay concrete blocks are insulated from the outside, most often with the help of:

• mineral wool;
• foam;
• its more modern counterpart - penoplex.

The first option is preferable due to zero fire hazard and low cost. But the problem is that the affordable price is largely negated by the need to organize a protective screen. Polyfoam is lightweight, also belongs to the budget group of materials, and you can mount it quickly.

At the same time, one should not forget about the danger of damage to the insulation layer by rodents, about fire risks. Penoplex is environmentally friendly, mice and rats will not be delighted with it. Disadvantages - hefty high cost and lack of micro-ventilation.

Quite often, people are faced with the problem of insulating the external facades of old panel houses. The main condition for high-quality thermal protection is such a device in which the permeability to steam increases from the living space to the street. There is no need to remove the outer skin of the dwelling, a number of technologies have been worked out that allow you to mount thermal insulation on top of it.

When choosing a suitable option, it is worth giving preference to solutions that do not overload the foundation and absorb the least amount of water. It is the significant severity and the finding of the dew point inside the hygroscopic thermal protection that give the owners of panel buildings the most problems.

Insulation of houses in the country for winter residence very relevant.

It is imperative to provide thermal protection:

• internal floors on the ground;
• floors of the first tier (if the foundation is not insulated);
• external walls;
• cold attic floor or attic roof.

It makes no sense to single out any one of these elements, even as important as walls. If at least one area is not insulated, all other work can be considered wasted, as well as the money spent on them. Walls must be equipped with waterproofing and vapor barrier; when choosing mineral or ecological wool for insulation, it is required to leave a ventilated gap of 50-100 mm. Insulation of a panel house from the outside has its own specifics. The slightest irregularities are supposed to be removed, and ideally - to level them with a primer.

If splitting paint is found, shedding of a different finish - all these layers are removed, even if the technology does not require such manipulation. In most cases, foam is used for external thermal protection of concrete walls, and the most reliable way of fixing it is the connection of glue and dowels. Work is carried out from the bottom up, at the lowest point a special bar is mounted, designed to prevent material from slipping. For your information: it is allowed to replace the dowels with plastic nails. Regardless of the fastening method, it is necessary to carefully monitor the resulting gaps.

Warming of the junction of the wall to the roof deserves a separate discussion. This work is done traditionally with stone wool, but for amateurs modern technologies it is better to focus on Macroflex foam. In many cases, a steel bonding apron is formed. Whether it is needed in a specific house, on a specific wall - only trained specialists can find out. The insulation of the junctions is too difficult to be done properly by the owners of the house themselves or by accidentally found free masters.

Types of materials

External wall insulation of private houses can be done with a variety of materials. It will not work to use sawdust for this purpose, because such protection is always bulk. Strictly speaking, the sawdust layer is laid inside the wall and must be quite thick. Mostly the owners of frame and bulk buildings resort to such a solution. But it should be considered in the very last place: even lime-supplemented wood waste is too prone to caking and getting wet.

For the construction of private houses, many people prefer to use foam concrete or aerated concrete; these two materials are stronger than wood. However, they need to be insulated according to a special scheme. Preferred solutions are polyurethane foam and mineral wool. The second material is the cheapest and is not subject to ignition, it is easy to work with it. Extraneous sounds are extinguished in the cotton layer, and they will annoy the tenants less.

Some developers use sawdust concrete, which is excellent for saving heat in frame houses... To make this material with your own hands, you can use large sawdust and calibration shavings obtained on woodworking machines. An indispensable component of the mixture is liquid glass. Carrying out reinforcing structures through the walls will help to avoid stratification of the mixture into separate components. It is recommended to drill holes for them immediately.

Perlite is used not so much outside as in the composition of multilayer walls. A prerequisite for the reliable service of this material is vapor barrier on the inside and high-quality waterproofing on the outside. To reduce the risk of water saturation and loss of thermal qualities, perlite is usually mixed in equal proportions with cement and expanded clay. If you need insulation that has really outstanding characteristics, it is difficult to find something more practical than basalt wool. Since it is impossible to work on the facade in its pure form, you will have to buy special plates.

Like other wadded coatings, this solution increases not only thermal insulation, but also sound insulation. This circumstance is very important for private houses located near the highway, railways, airports and industrial buildings. It should be borne in mind that not every glue is suitable for joining such boards to a wood base. Installation can be done wet or dry. In the second case, it is required to purchase dowels with extended caps.

For finishing the facade of a private house, it is permissible to use only basalt slabs with a specific mass of at least 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Sometimes reeds are used as additional thermal protection, everyone will be able to prepare the necessary raw materials and prepare them for work. The stems will have to be laid as tightly as possible so that there are as few loopholes as possible for cold air between them. The problem of fire hazard is solved by impregnation with a fire retardant or bischofite, these substances increase the fire resistance of the reed mass to the G1 level (spontaneous extinguishing when heating is stopped).

Polyurethane foam

If there is no particular desire to use natural materials, you can safely use PPU panels. The advantage of this solution is the combination of thermal and acoustic protection of the living space. Polyurethane foam does not allow water to pass through, and therefore there is no need for a layer of additional waterproofing, cost savings are achieved. Polyurethane foam easily adheres to the base material and therefore it turns out to be quite simple to work with it. Weaknesses should also be taken into account - the high price of the coating, its instability under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Siding

In some cases, the cake, finished outside with siding, also becomes an insulating structure. The metal itself, no matter how beautiful it looks, allows a lot of heat to pass through. And even vinyl designs are not much better at this rate. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for lining under steel or vinyl, but its high flammability should be considered when choosing it. Also, EPS and polystyrene sometimes cannot effectively dampen extraneous sounds.

Light insulation under the siding is provided by roll materials, including polyethylene foam with an outer foil coating. Foam concrete and aerated concrete heaters avoid interest from gnawing animals and guarantee full thermal protection. When using expanded polystyrene, you first need to cut the sheets in accordance with the exact dimensions. Provided that the crate is planned specifically for specific sheets, the number of cut parts will be minimal. If mineral wool is installed, it is recommended to leave it untwisted for 60-90 minutes before cutting or filling the frame, then the result will be better and more stable.

Mineral wool

Minvata is good in that it does not interfere with ventilation in the room through the walls.

It is also able to close the unevenness of the relief on:

• tree;
• brick;
• stone.

In this regard, subsequent finishing is simplified, and the rough surface becomes as smooth as possible. When working on the outside of the walls, in contrast to internal thermal insulation, the problem of formaldehyde emission completely disappears. Important: if the relative humidity exceeds 85%, place mineral wool in any form is unacceptable.

Fastening is usually done with anchors, and a brick wall is placed on top of them. When insulating an already in use house, metal structures cannot be left inside the walls, they can rust very quickly.

Plaster

As a result, the overall wall thickness and the load it exerts on the foundation are noticeably reduced. To improve the thermal properties of a house, the most common dry mixture is suitable, to which perlite sand, pumice chips and other fillers of a fine fraction are added.

Styrofoam

The use of foam structures is excellent for providing thermal protection to buildings. This insulation works quietly at temperatures from -50 to +75 degrees. Among different options material should pay attention to those that are impregnated with fire-resistant additives and filled with incombustible carbon dioxide. Bacteria and fungal organisms do not like polystyrene very much and practically do not settle in it. The cracked sections of the walls and holes will first have to be covered up in order to get a decent result.

The range of insulation materials, of course, does not end with the listed materials. Quite a few people use polyurethane foam, which is no worse than finished PU foam panels. Excellent adhesion helps the liquid to penetrate immediately into the surface and provide reliable service for many years. For domestic purposes, low pressure cylinders are usually used: the quality of the reagent is not at all worse than in professional equipment, the only difference is that its output is slower. It should be noted that this technology cannot exclude until the end of the appearance of air bubbles in the foam layer, and a wall made of low-quality material is sometimes damaged by pressure.

Arbolit is used not only for the construction of houses, but also to improve the thermal qualities of already erected structures. This building material is almost entirely made from natural wood, which allows you to improve the thermal protection of stone and brick buildings. But it is important to understand that by itself it is easily blown through and gets wet, almost instantly turns out to be pierced by bridges of cold.

If the thickness of the wood concrete wall is 0.3 m or more, moreover, the laying is done correctly, there will be no special need for additional cover from the cold in the regions of central Russia. Wood concrete insulation is required in the regions Far north(over the entire surface). The points where the outward heat loss is most intense should be insulated in any area.

Clay is often used from natural materials for external thermal protection of walls (it is used both by itself and in mixtures with straw or sawdust). Undoubted advantages such a decision turns out low price and no fire risk. Many people are attracted by the simplicity of the workflow.

Important: inattention to the proportions of the constituent mixtures can lead to their rapid loss of their valuable properties and to the stratification of the prepared thermal insulation. In order for the clay mass to stay on the surface of the wall, you will have to mount structures made of boards and durable cardboard.

Good results can be achieved with felt insulation. It is especially recommended for thermal protection of wooden houses. Laying can be carried out in several layers at once, which increases the quality of insulation, an affordable price allows you not to fear excessive costs in this case.

For your information: before ordering the material, it is worth checking with the professionals whether the felt insulation is suitable for a certain climatic zone.

Like cotton wool insulation, it dampens sounds penetrating from the outside, but you need to keep in mind possible problems:

• insufficient efficiency in large dwellings and in multi-storey buildings;
• unsuitability for insulation of stone and brick structures;
• relatively large thickness of the insulation being created;
• the need for careful alignment of the styling (every small fold is very harmful).

An alternative natural materials Isolon wall insulation. This insulation effectively reflects radiant infrared energy and has been recognized as a comfortable, safe product based on the results of a number of special tests. It is widely used in both private and apartment buildings. Izolon is sold in large-format rolls, so it is especially important to properly calculate the need for it. In general, the approaches to calculating the need for heaters deserve special attention.

Calculation of material thickness

Payment required thickness Penofol mats must be produced in accordance with the norms enshrined in SNiP 2.04.14. This document, approved in 1988, is very difficult to understand and it is better to entrust working with it to professionals. Non-specialists can roughly estimate the required parameters using both online calculators and installed software. The first option is the simplest, but not always correct; it is difficult to take into account all the necessary nuances. The width of penofol canvases is always standard - 200 mm.

You should not strive to buy the thickest material possible, sometimes it will be more profitable to vary the desired number of foil layers. The double aluminum block is characterized by the highest thermal and acoustic properties. Optimal results (judging by the operating experience) are obtained by penofol 5 mm thick. And if the task is to achieve the highest thermal protection and sound insulation, without skimping on costs, it is worth choosing a centimeter design. A layer of 4-5 mm foam foam is enough to provide the same protection as when using 80-85 mm mineral wool, while the foil material does not pick up water.

Preparing the walls

The formation of lathing knots on wood is the simplest and easiest, in comparison with the processing of walls from other materials. In this case, the design of the layout of the material should take into account the basic properties of wood: its high permeability to steam and the likelihood of fungal infection. The frame can be formed from a wooden bar or an aluminum profile. Special attachment points for heat-shielding material and lathing for front finishing should be provided. Roll insulation attached to the walls from the timber on the slats.

The double-layer thermal insulation coating must be mounted on a double batten(simple or supplemented with brackets). Receive wooden frame you can use an electric jigsaw (if you choose the right blade), but it is recommended to cut aluminum structures with metal scissors. You should not try to speed up the process using angle grinders, it damages the anti-corrosion layer, reduces the shelf life of the thermal insulation. Screwing screws, bolts and self-tapping screws into wooden walls produced best with a screwdriver with a set of nozzles. The rechargeable version of the device is best suited, because then there will be no permanently interfering wire.

It is advisable to adjust wooden parts and drive in disc dowels with a hammer or rubber mallet. If you need to mount membrane films, the best solution is to use a stapler with a set of staples. When preparing the lathing, each part of it is verified by building level: even minor deviations, invisible to the eye, often lead to incorrect operation of the insulation. Of course, even before starting installation, wooden walls must be impregnated with several layers of antiseptic composition. The use of a spray gun will help speed up this impregnation.

Installation steps

Useful to consider step by step instructions do-it-yourself insulation of external walls gas silicate houses... A prerequisite for the normal operation of most of these buildings is the installation of insulation material and protection from moisture from the outside. If the blocks are decorated with bricks, all protective materials are laid out in the gap between it and the gas silicate. Masonry 40-50 cm thick in central Russia, as a rule, does not require additional thermal insulation. But if constructions of 30 cm and thinner are used, this work becomes mandatory.

It is recommended not to use cement mortars, they form insufficiently tight seams, abundantly transmitting heat into external world and frost inside the building. It is much more correct to mount the blocks themselves using special glue, which guarantees the most snug fit. At the same time, it reduces the likelihood of the formation of cold bridges.

When choosing which technology to insulate a gas silicate house, you should pay attention to:

• the number of floors in it;
• the use of windows and the glazing method;
• engineering communications;
• other structural and architectural details.

When insulating gas silicate, most professionals prefer slab structures based on stone wool or EPS. In third place in popularity are plaster-based facade insulation complexes. Styrofoam and traditional rock wool rolls are outsiders: there are no particular advantages over the leaders, but there are additional complications. Of the latest developments, it is worth paying attention to thermal panels, which are distinguished not only by excellent thermal protection, but also by a decent aesthetic appearance.

If any type of mineral wool is chosen for work, you will need:

• fasten the vertical lathing;
• lay waterproofing and vapor barrier (separate or combined in one material);
• mount the cotton itself and let it stand;

Many people face such a problem, the heat is not stored in the heated room, the reason for this may be the dissipation of heat energy through the walls. How to deal with this? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate the house? What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? For this, the house is insulated. The most correct solution would be to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.

He will be able to create protection for warm indoor air from outside cold and will effectively maintain the necessary microclimate of the room. Also, the advantages of external wall insulation include their protection from water vapor and light emission, which will significantly extend their operational life.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate a stone house, brick or wood? High-quality thermal insulation is the key to the comfort and coziness of a private or country house.

How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to get good thermal insulation and do it in the best way?

In total, there are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:

• The insulation is fixed directly to the wall using special glue or other devices. Then it is covered with construction mesh and plastered under the finishing materials.
• In this case, the heat insulator is also mounted on the wall of the room, but then an additional brick wall is installed on the foundation. A small air space or gap is left between the insulation and the wall. With this method, the heat insulator is not plastered.
• This insulation option consists of several stage-by-stage works. First of all, the walls of the house are covered with a special waterproofing film, then the material selected as insulation is mounted, after which it is necessary to install protection against water vapor and wind. And only after that, with the help of a special frame made of wooden beams or metal guides, is the installation of materials for the external cladding of the room such various siding, lining, ceramic tiles and much more. The use of this option, the so-called ventilated facade, can be done at any time of the year, since there is no need to use any solutions.

The options considered represent a general direction, in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as insulation. Modern market thermal insulation materials are quite wide and some of them may require a different installation technique.

Also, the choice of a heat insulator, its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, consider the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.

Installation of heaters

How to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case it will be able to keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Heaters, which are presented in the construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, basalt plate and cellulose insulation.

The use of one or another insulation material is associated with climatic conditions, the method of installation work and the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The calculation takes into account the width of the bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the insulator, and the internal temperature of the room. Then you can start installing the insulation. How to prepare the wall for the installation of insulation?

Consider the instruction:

• First of all, it is necessary to clean the wall from old plaster and other materials down to the material from which it is made.
• After that, you need to align wall surfaces, patch up cracks and holes and cut off protrusions, clean up dust and dirt, and carefully apply a primer, not missing a single centimeter of the area.

A primer should be used that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one type or another depending on the material from which the primed surface is made.

• Installation of insulation should be done in an even layer without curving the surface, depressions and protrusions, using the tools provided for this: beacons, plumb lines, levels, corners and others. Otherwise, you may encounter problems with further plastering the wall or installing the facing material, that is, applying different thicknesses of the plastering material and installing additional guides. What does a beacon system look like? At the upper edge of the surface, screws are screwed in, several pieces, depending on the length of the wall, on which a dense thread is hung with a metal plumb line at the bottom.
• After that, horizontal threads are installed, which connect all vertical threads. Thus, a network is formed that will determine the level when installing an insulation or frame system. After carrying out such preparatory work, you can start installing the heat insulator.

It can be made with different materials. How to insulate the walls of the house outside? How do materials differ from each other?

The use of expanded polystyrene

Use of expanded polystyrene as a heater. How to insulate a house from the outside with expanded polystyrene? You need to properly insulate according to the instructions.

Installation instructions for this thermal insulation product:

• At the beginning, it is necessary to install a corner along the lower edge of the wall, observing the required level - the first layer of the heat insulator will be leveled along it. It is installed using a special glue, and glue for ceramic tiles is also suitable.
• The sheets are pressed tightly against the wall and leveled using plumb lines and a level. The second layer of material is applied after the first has dried completely, so as not to knock it off the level.

It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the lower row hold the upper ones.

• From the second row, polystyrene foam is attached using special anchoring, "Umbrellas", as they are called in another way. They are driven into each of the four corners and into the center of the sheet.
• Vertical and horizontal seams are glued with construction tape with reinforcing properties. V window openings and on the corners of the walls, insulation is additionally attached with corners made of metal.
• After the wall is completely covered with insulation, a construction mesh is mounted on it, then plaster can be applied.

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of bricks and concrete. This installation of insulation also has its negative sides. So, for example, this material has a low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which the condensate that will accumulate in the wall can eventually cause it to get wet.

To avoid this, the walls must be thoroughly dried before installation work on the installation of insulation. It is also important to keep them dry during operation. If all this is impossible to achieve, then in in this case it is better to use the method of installing insulation, which provides for its ventilation.

Remember that in the end there should be no place in which there will be access to polystyrene foam, otherwise small rodents can damage it, and it will also be affected by the environment, which will lead to damage and deterioration.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a house can be done using expanded polystyrene.

Mineral wool applications

Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool is another popular insulation material. How to insulate a private house with mineral wool? The installation of this insulation is similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made with basalt or cellulose slabs.

Installation instructions for mineral wool:

• In the beginning, wall preparation is always required. Let's clean the walls of old plaster and try to level the surface.
• Then you should proceed with the installation of the frame. It is made of wooden beams by creating vertical and horizontal lathing. At the same time, the width and length of the empty space should be less than a sheet of insulation by about thirty millimeters - these are the necessary conditions for the sheet of mineral wool to enter it easily and not form a large gap.
• As an attachment to the sheets of mineral wool, anchor bolts are mounted on which the material is hung. Since most of the walls remain uneven, it is better to use mineral wool, which consists of two layers. In this case, the softer layer is installed directly on the wall, due to its structure, the most excellent connection of the sheets with the insulated surface occurs.

On some variants of mineral wool, you can apply plaster after installation construction mesh or install a special vapor-permeable insulating film. Then it is necessary to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which the facing material is installed. Lining, various siding, tiles and facing bricks are suitable.

This type of home insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climatic zones... It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows this product to breathe and not get damp.

Use of polyurethane foam

How to properly insulate a house with polyurethane foam? When installing this insulation, you must adhere to the same frame structure, as in the case of mineral wool insulation with the installation of a windscreen. At the same time, polyurethane foam is foamed on the wall in a place free from the frame for the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to which an excellent result is achieved in keeping warm inside the premises.

But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when mounted on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, therefore it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or roof slopes standing at a slight angle. It is not difficult to insulate walls with polyurethane. It is necessary to insulate the house (booth) using additional products.

Application of basalt slabs

Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. During the installation of this thermal insulation product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.

The laying of this protective film is carried out on the bars, which have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the formed joints. Sealing is done using a specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a covering is made from the purlins thanks to the beams. This is done to provide ventilation.

Before starting the insulation of external walls with this material, it is necessary to make a covering from the battens - this differs from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of the building. Leave a gap for ventilation. Basalt slabs are attached using self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes surface finishing with siding or some other coating.

To insulate the walls from the outside with basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Insulation of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.

Use of cellulose

How to insulate walls with cellulose? Pulp can be mounted using three methods: mechanical, dry, wet.

The first mounting method involves the use of dedicated hardware. Do-it-yourself wall insulation outside with your own hands is quite expensive. The mechanical method has high productivity. This method allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, it is not necessary to apply a vapor barrier.

The dry mounting method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How are the walls insulated from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls manually without the use of special equipment. First, the pulp must be fluffed, this is done with a drill.

Then it must be poured out of the container onto the surface. Further, it is tamped. If, nevertheless, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from a frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to pour in a heat-insulating product and tamp it. This is how other parts of the walls are insulated.

Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of structures in a vertical direction. First, the pulp must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will set without problems.

All insulation methods can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be the insulation of a country house.

What is the best way to insulate the house from the outside? There is various materials for wall insulation outside. Each insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is to be cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use that material for insulation of the house outside, which has high technical characteristics.

We hope that the description of each of them will help you make the right choice. Insulating walls from the outside is an important element in achieving overall comfort. You can insulate the house outside with your own hands without anyone's help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in your home.