We install slopes on the windows with our own hands. Methods and technologies for installing plastic slopes

Replacing old frames with modern plastic windows is half the task. The next step that is often overlooked is installation. window slopes. Proper execution and finishing of slopes plays an equally important role in warming an apartment as. You can invite a craftsman to carry out the work or save a little on builders and make slopes yourself.

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Types of slopes

The complexity of the work on finishing the slopes depends on the quality of the walls, the accuracy of the craftsmen when working with windows and the selected material for finishing. There are only three basic ways:

• with subsequent decor (painting or wallpapering);
• plastic framing;
• cover .

Slopes are also made of wood - coniferous (most often pine) or valuable breeds(beech, oak, mahogany). This is a rather laborious method that requires professional work with wood. Stylish wooden slopes look in expensive interiors, where the rest of the furnishings are also made using wood. Do-it-yourself repairs can be completed if you choose a simpler material for slopes plastic windows.

Plastic slopes

Plastering and painting slopes

This method of processing slopes is the most economical and simple. The finished dry mix, which is based on gypsum or cement, is mixed with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer, after which the material is ready for use.

Note!

Before applying the plaster, the surface around the window is cleaned of dust, dirt, sagging or mounting foam.

The seams of corners and slopes are expanded so that the plaster adheres better to the base - brick wall. The wall is plastered first, and only then proceed to the slopes.

Slope installation

Crack sealing

When performing slopes, the tightness of the joints of the wall and window is additionally checked. Detected cracks close up mounting foam, you can use tow or felt. Fabric materials are treated with a gypsum solution and fixed along the perimeter of the frame.

2-3 cm should remain to the side parts of the window opening - this gap will be filled with plaster. When the material dries, work can continue. Do-it-yourself window slopes are not very fast, but you can be sure of the quality of each stage of work.

Plastering slopes - the final stage

A little solution is laid in the groove of the slope, leveled, waited for drying and moved on to the next layer. At one time, you can apply 5-7 mm of the solution, then you need to wait for the material to dry completely. Align the layers from bottom to top.

Before applying plaster upper part the slope is fixed with a horizontal plank of wood - its edge must be perfectly even. Fix the rail to the plaster or nails, exposing the guide along.

Slopes on windows

Advantages of plastic slopes

Installing plastic slopes will take much less time than working with plaster. This option for finishing windows will cost a little more, but there will be less dust and dirt after the slopes are completed, and the process will go faster.

The plastic panels are made of the same material as the window frames. With temperature changes, the slopes and frames expand in the same way, excess stress is not created. There is no need to paint or prepare PVC panels for installation. To eliminate the "consequences" of the repair, a damp cloth is enough, and the entire installation process will take no more than 2 hours.

For slopes, plastics that are not subject to harmful effects solar radiation and quite durable, resistant to scratches and impacts. Typically selected sandwich panels with top layer made of plastic, intermediate made of insulating material and lower made of moisture-resistant PVC.

Installation of plastic slopes

Previously, fragments are cut out of the panels according to the size of the slopes. The panels are fixed to the cleaned surface with liquid nails". With a rail with a snap-in corner, the plastic is attached in the selected position. Instead of such a design, you can also use simple wooden slats, fixing them at the top and along the sides of the window opening. The panels are attached to the guides with a stapler.

The joints of the walls and slopes are made out with plastic corners. Their purpose is to keep the wallpaper intact on the walls adjacent to the window being designed. It is these parts that are most often damaged by children and pets.

Performing slopes on the windows with your own hands, it is worth observing the technological nuances. It is better to choose plastic panels to match the shade of the window, since they do not have to be painted. Before using the panels, the mounting spike is cut off from them. Panels should be cut with a special knife or jigsaw.

Mounting foam may deform during solidification. To prevent this from happening and the slopes remain smooth, they select foam with a minimum expansion coefficient. The slopes must be additionally fixed for 5-10 minutes until the foam "grabs".

Drywall slopes

Do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows are quite easy to make from drywall. For work, a moisture-resistant material is chosen that will not suffer from accidental raindrops and condensate that accumulates on the glass. An alternative option is to use ordinary drywall, which will additionally be covered with several layers of primer or a special protective compound.

When performing slopes from drywall, they sometimes put window block with profiles on the sides - it will be the basis of the entire structure. Before mounting the block, the profile must be fixed in the window grooves. Then the system will be more reliable and tougher, and installation will be easier.

Installation of plasterboard slopes without a window block

You can do without ready-made frames by doing everything preparatory work on one's own. In this case, you will need a profile in the shape of the letter "L" and fix it along the edges of the frame, creating a base for attaching drywall sheets. The material is cut exactly to size, inconsistencies can later be masked and corrected with plaster. Sealant is applied to the profile acrylic base, then insert a sheet of drywall. The distance between the window and the slope is laid with a layer of mineral wool, a layer of glue is applied to the near edges, and using a level, the drywall sheet is carefully pressed against the wall.

Alternative ways to install drywall slopes

It is not necessary to use a profile when making slopes. You can fix drywall:

• on mounting foam;
• on glue.

Use metal frames convenient in cases where the surface under the slopes was badly damaged during the installation of windows. Fastening drywall panels to glue or foam is carried out in the same way as fastening to a profile. In this case, the sheets are installed end-to-end or behind the frame, the seams are filled with sealant. After the work is completed, the surface is primed, covered with putty and two layers of paint.

Note!

The corners of the slopes can be covered with decorative corners.

Drywall slopes are not only profitable and easy to install. The surface of the material can be additionally decorated, which allows you to design windows in the style of the entire room. The slopes will not contrast with the design of the room and spoil the impression of the interior.

Choosing the right plastic windows is not as difficult as making the slopes on the windows even, neat and keeping the heat in the room. However, it is possible to achieve a high-quality result when doing the work with your own hands.

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands video:

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Plastic windows can be found today in almost every home. But the installation of the structure is half the battle, because you still need to make slopes. Without protection, mounting foam can quickly absorb moisture and deform with temperature fluctuations. Slopes prevent condensation on windows, hide opening defects, improve sound and heat insulation.

Advantages of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes - the most practical solution when finishing a window opening, because they have the following advantages:

1. When installing slopes made of plastic, a lot of dust and dirt do not form, and the procedure itself does not take much time - only 2-3 hours.
2. PVC panels do not fade in the sun, because they are resistant to ultraviolet radiation, do not rot, do not become damp and do not react to moisture.
3. Since the material is anti-static, the surface will not collect dust and is easy to clean with a normal soapy solution.
4. Plastic slopes are characterized high level absorption of street noise.
5. Harmonious combination plastic slopes with PVC windows gives the window opening a complete look.
6. The low cost of slopes made of plastic, when compared with other finishing materials.
7. Plastic is a durable material that will last you 15-20 years.
8. When choosing plastic panels with insulation, it will be possible to give the slope additional thermal insulation, which will prevent heat loss.

Tools and materials

36 hours after the installation of the window and the hardening of the foam, we proceed to install the slopes without peeling off the protective films from the windows and window sills. As a rule, to create plastic slopes, plastic lining or sandwich panels. The recommended thickness of the plastic is at least 8 mm, the length of the panel must correspond to the dimensions of the window opening, the depth of the slope should not exceed the width of the panel. For the installation of slopes, in addition to the plastic itself, prepare the following materials: mounting foam, starting strip, adhesive tape, thermal insulation material, F-shaped profile, silicone, cement mixture, self-tapping screws "bugs", paper clips. In the process, you will need a drill, a hammer, a trowel, a spatula, a screwdriver, a gun for applying foam and silicone, a tape measure, and rags.

Preparatory work

First, the cracks formed during the installation of the plastic window from the side of the street should be sealed in order to seal the external assembly seam and hide the foam from the damaging effects sun rays. For this you can use any building mixture intended for outdoor use - putty or a mixture made on the basis of cement. After the external slopes should be covered with paint - and proceed to work indoors.

Frame for panels

At the first stage, you should create a frame for attaching plastic panels in the following sequence:

• To stiffen the plastic along the perimeter of the slope, it is necessary to nail wooden slats, using self-tapping screws as fasteners. The rail should be fixed flush to the wall. She shouldn't be stuck.
• Fix in a strictly vertical position, using wooden blocks and a building level for leveling.

Installation of the starting strip

At this stage, it is necessary to fix the starting strip around the perimeter of the window, which is required for the installation of plastic panels. Self-tapping screws "bugs" are used for fastening. Be sure to carry out a preliminary markup to fill the strip evenly. In addition to the horizontal and vertical lines, it is worth controlling the fit of the strip to the inner edge of the window. After that, remove the protective film placed on the window and window sill, as there will be no more dusty work.

F-band attachment

Let's make a fringing from an F-shaped strip, which closes the defective area around the window opening, which is customarily glued with wallpaper. The strip must first be cut, taking into account the overlap that will form after its fastening. The joints of the profile are sawn at an angle of 45 degrees. It is removed after completion of work with metal scissors. Attach the F-profile for one of the two parallel ribs to wooden lath, starting at the top element. Use a stapler for this.

Installation of plastic panels

When installing plastic slopes, consider the following requirements:

1. The gap that occurs between the panel and the base must be at least 20 mm.
2. The angle of the side elements of the window slope should be the same on the right and left, use a square for measurements.
3. Use a mounting knife and cut the panels if they protrude above the opening.

Now you can start fixing the plastic to the frame: first we will make the top panel, then 2 side panels. Plastic must be placed in the grooves of the starting strip at the far edge of the window opening, placing a layer of insulation behind it, which can be used as cotton wool. Fasten the panel in the F-profile. At all stages, it is recommended to control the work using a plumb line or level. If gaps have formed during installation, then they should be covered with white building silicone or sealant.

Ready! It remains only to clean the surface of the plastic slopes from debris.

Installation of slopes is not included in the scope of services of most companies that install plastic double-glazed windows. And if it does, it is often exorbitantly paid for their arrangement. However, with the availability of appropriate materials and equipment, as well as basic knowledge, this task can be performed without the involvement of specialists. How to make slopes of plastic windows with your own hands and will be discussed in this article. There are 3 main ways to install slopes: installation of PVC or drywall sheets, plastering. Thanks to the slopes, hydro and thermal insulation is provided.

Plastering slopes will take time. This slope finishing method is usually performed during overhaul. At the same time, in the process of in-line cosmetic repairs, as a rule, other methods of finishing slopes are chosen. This is due to the fact that in the process of plastering and puttying, the wallpaper around the opening will certainly be damaged, which will lead to the need to replace them. If during dismantling old surface slope, its edge crumbled, then it is necessary to install a metal corner.

The first beacon should be installed at the window block in such a way that the plaster lies on the frame by at least 50 mm. At the same time, it is installed strictly horizontally. The second beacon should be installed at the corners of the slope. Along the entire perimeter, the distance between the beacons should be the same.

Dry gypsum plaster quite suitable for finishing window slopes from the inside of the room. The easiest way to mix it is with a construction mixer. If you need to cover deep potholes in old slopes, then this type of plaster is just right for you better than a sand-cement mixture.

So, add sand to the mixture at the rate of ½. This is if you have to make a layer of more than 3 cm. In this case, the sand must be sifted. As for the outer window slopes, they need to be processed cement mixture or starting facade putty. At the same time, it should contain a water-repellent composition.

To prevent the glass of plastic windows from sweating in the cold season, the slopes should be insulated before plastering. It is worth considering that single-chamber double-glazed windows will definitely “sweat”, and if the slopes are not insulated, then condensate will also collect on them and then bloom will appear.

The plaster should be applied in several layers. However, each of them requires pre-drying. First, spraying is done, then in 1-2 layers the primer and the finish layer. For the final leveling of the surface, the slopes should be puttied. In this case, the putty layer should be small. After drying, the fine putty is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper or a grinder. Cracks in the joints of putty and door block should be covered with sealant, which can later be painted. The joint should be cut with a clerical knife by 2–3 mm at an angle of 45º. Then the recess is primed. The resulting groove should be sealed. In this case, the strip should be as even as possible, in which masking tape will help you. The sealant is leveled with a rubber spatula. You can then remove the tape.

Before painting the slope, it must be primed. The paint on the slope is applied in two layers. The next layer is applied after the previous one has dried. It will take you about a week to complete all stages of work on plastering the slope.

Drywall slopes are more practical than their plastic counterparts. If such a slope from the GKL (drywall) is damaged, then it can be repaired. To do this, you will need to putty the slope of the drywall, sand it and paint it. Installing slopes from GKL does not require special skills, but it will take a lot of time to install them.

All work consists of several successive stages:

• frame installation;
• drywall laying;
• primer before puttying;
• putty;
• primer before painting;
• painting.

A significant disadvantage of such slopes is that they absorb moisture. For this reason, they cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity and for exterior decoration.

quality metal-plastic windows equipped with a profile for mounting slopes made of moisture-resistant gypsum board. The presence / absence of a profile can be checked with the manufacturer before buying windows.

Immediately before the installation of the window, the profile is installed in a specially prepared groove. If there is no groove, then use a galvanized L-profile. This profile is screwed to the edge of the frame. You can insert cut strips of drywall into it. Drywall should have a maximum exact dimensions. Apply acrylic sealant to the profile, and then insert drywall into it. Lay the distance from the side of the window to the slope mineral wool. At the end of the drywall, gently and evenly press it against the wall.

If you have to install slopes of expensive wooden double-glazed windows, then the algorithm of actions will be slightly different:

• Drywall installed on the edge window profile. To have the same gap around the perimeter of the window, you can make a template.
• The fragment that adjoins the window must be filled with foam. For a tight fit to the wall, glue is used.
• On the window profile, which is located closer to the edge, adjacent to the drywall, adhesive tape should be glued so that the indentation around the entire perimeter is 2-3 mm.
• Then the acrylic sealant should be applied with a gun. With a wet finger, smooth the sealant, and then remove its excess from the surface of the window. After that, remove the masking tape.

Installation of drywall without a frame is usually used when finishing old slopes. At the beginning of work, the surface is completely cleaned of the old finish. Prime the prepared surface.

Drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws and applied pointwise adhesive mixture"Perfilix". Given that this mixture hardens very quickly, drywall should be measured and cut in advance.

In order for the drywall to be fixed and the glue to be evenly distributed, it should be pressed with a bar and gently tapped with a rubber mallet. To fix the upper slope, install a spacer to the windowsill. The upper slope is fixed with spacers to the window sill. In order for the surface to be fixed, it must be kept in this position for at least an hour. For complete drying of the glue, it is enough to wait up to three days.

During this time, the drywall joint and walls should not be sealed, due to this the adhesive mixture will dry faster. As for the edges of the slope, they can be covered with sealant. At the end, the surface is puttied with a finishing putty, sanded and painted.

Plastic slopes are the easiest to install. Their advantage is durability and resistance to moisture, and they do not need to be looked after in a special way. The tone of the plastic can be selected depending on the color of the window, as well as the style of the room. To carry out heat and sound insulation, you need to purchase penoizol / mineral wool in advance. Plastic slopes can also be installed on an old base or they can be installed from scratch.

The peculiarity of plastic slopes is that they can be used for finishing window openings inside and outside. It is possible to carry out their installation even on the day of installation of a double-glazed window. So, there are several types:

• Made of foamed plastic.
• Made of plastic-coated gypsum board.

Increasingly, sandwich panels have been used for finishing slopes. This is due to the low cost of the material, with high moisture resistance. So, sandwich panels can be glossy, matte or with a relief imitating wood. Their structure is similar to a sponge. This, in turn, improves the thermal insulation properties of slopes. In this case, panels with a thickness of 1 cm are used.

A wooden lath is fastened along the outer edge of the opening with self-tapping screws strictly according to the level. In this case, the load of the slope will be taken by the rail, which means that it needs to be fixed thoroughly.

The starting profile is installed in the groove. A slope is subsequently fixed to it, and then insulated. In this case, the insulation is placed under the plastic. The outer edge of the slopes should be fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels.

If the slopes are installed on the brackets, then the algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• The first bracket is attached to the wall. This will help you double-sided mounting tape, and the second - to the slope.
• Brackets must be connected to each other with self-tapping screws.
• The side slopes must be fixed to the window sill with glue, and then connected to the neighboring ones.
• Then the seams are sealed.

PVC foam slopes have relatively smooth surface. They can be cut with a grinder. If you need to bend PVC, then make cuts at the folds. The shape of a semicircle for finishing the slope is easiest to make from foamed PVC. In this case, the furrows should not exceed one third of the thickness of the slope.

Notches in without fail treated with adhesive.

Glue is applied to the grooves in the mounting foam, and then the panel is installed. As described above, in the subsection on the installation of gypsum slopes, you need to install in a box metallic profile. Then you can fix the foamed PVC into it. The space between the wall and the plastic must be sealed with foam, while leaving small gaps, as the foam will swell.

Then you need to attach the profile to outside corner. Treat the joints with silicone. It is important to smooth its surface. This can be done with a damp cloth/rubber spatula. Installation of slopes made of plastic-coated gypsum is carried out in a similar way.

Self-installation of slopes is an opportunity to acquire new useful skills and at the same time save a lot. In addition, with proper installation of slopes, you can hide defects in construction and repair work and some shortcomings that were made during the installation of PVC windows.

Video

To better understand the progress of this work, we suggest you watch the video.

Prices from 700 rubles/m.p. taking into account the cost of all materials, delivery and installation, high-quality components, craftsmen with experience of 3 years, free departure for measurement.

PVC structures are one of the most useful inventions of man. These windows provide excellent protection for your home from weather conditions, street dust and noise. Unlike wooden windows, plastic windows do not need to be painted annually, they are not afraid of moisture and temperature changes. Specialists of the company "Otkosik" will install slopes on plastic windows quickly, efficiently and at competitive prices.

A slope is a gap between a window and a wall, a window opening. Previously, most slopes were made with plaster for whitewashing or painting. With the ubiquity of PVC windows in Moscow, plastic slopes have become popular. They are considered the most reliable method protection of cracks and seams on the window from external influences.

The main advantages of plastic slopes:

• Resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.
• They have sufficient sound insulation.
• Durable.
• Not subject to mold and mildew.
• Easily installed.
• They have an affordable price.

Finishing a plastic window on your own

For clearance standard window you will need:

• plastic 8 mm thick, 6 m long;
• starting profile;
• wooden slats up to 15 mm;
• building level;
• stapler and staples;
• F-bar;
• insulation;
• self-tapping screws;
• silicone or liquid plastic.

Main steps:

1. After removing the remnants of the sealant from the window, we fasten the wooden slats with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter of the slope. It is very important to observe the ideal geometry; for this, a building level is used.
2. We fix the starting profile along the outer border. It should fit snugly against the inner edge of the plastic window.
3. We fix the F-shaped strip to the wooden rail with a stapler.
4. We install plastic panels, fixing them in the profile and the F-shaped bar. We push a layer of cotton wool under the plastic, which will serve as insulation.
5. We cover the joints liquid plastic or silicone to match the color of the slopes.

This completes the installation of slopes on plastic windows. The finished details complement the plastic structures and fit into any design.

Professional trimming

Installation of plastic slopes - not very hard work, but still requires certain skills. If you are not sure that you have enough knowledge and free time to install slopes on plastic windows on your own, then we recommend that you contact the specialists of the Otkosik company. Among the residents of Moscow, we have gained great prestige by installing plastic slopes quickly, reliably and at a reasonable price.

Prices for the installation of window slopes

Use our calculator for calculating the cost of installing slopes, choose the type and color of the future slope and window sill online.

Prices include the cost of all materials, delivery and installation.
Payment after completion of all work (no prepayment).
When ordering from 20 l.m. discount is provided.

Entrust the beauty of your windows to professionals from the Otkosik company!

After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. Closes all this "beauty" different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which is foamed polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given from step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to fix slopes on plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a start profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually on the hinge side - not possible at all.

After installing the plastic window, such a picture was observed.

The device of slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is cut off easily, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush, and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - less foam will slip.

Then, along the perimeter of the window, we nail (put on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin rail - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side to the slope.

Usually it is not leveled, it is nailed as is, but if you want, you can set it straight by placing pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to properly cut the plastic panels. Can be done as standard: using measurements, you can make a stencil. With a stencil, it seems to be easier. Take a sheet of paper, larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start with the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the groove of the foam, we add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut off than to cover up later.

We cut with a hacksaw with a metal blade, try on, adjust so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even, where necessary, we work with a file.

Having removed the tried and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. So it will be easier to fasten and do not damage the plastic.

We put it back in place, take a balloon with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short “puffs”. We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour a lot: if it swells up, it can warp the plastic.

There are several points when working with mounting foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it, or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, or / and prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for the normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

After we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, we insert the studs into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - we cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic sidewall. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be processed sandpaper. To make the edge even it was easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, a file or a whetstone (half of a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) match at the top and bottom, put it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level with the wall plaster. You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can put a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then refine it with what is convenient.

Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for cloves. We install the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam, and here it’s not good, since the plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deep as possible.

On the vertical parts slopes, can be done differently: on the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which starts under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut out groove, set as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installation). Having filled, press, level, fix with carnations into the bar.

So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued with masking tape at the top and bottom. No matter how hard you try to fit the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes such as mounting foam, placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub it, smooth it out, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation must be carried out on small areas and wipe gently. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then, with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start filling cracks from above - immediately - a horizontal slope panel, then joints, then move down, first along one side, then along the other. The last to cover up the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be drawn into the seam - this is if the gaps are large. All these places go through the second time according to the same method. After the second layer dries, if there are roughness and irregularities, they can be leveled with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. In general, it is better to carefully align while damp, otherwise you can scratch the plastic.

Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveled with the surface of the walls. After that, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or wall white PVC panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are quite easily pressed through, to besides, e If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. in sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and even there are no jumpers to the clearance.

Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes and according to this technology begins with the preparation of a window opening. We cut exactly the foam, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, we pass along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, fasten wooden block. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go on the frame. One side of the bar must be worked out with a planer, making a slope. The slope angle of this face equal to the angle slope settings. You can saw off, but it’s even more difficult to make, except that there is a circular saw with adjustable angle.

We fasten the processed bar to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall. If the wall is brick, you can try on self-tapping screws, you need to put dowels in concrete.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the bar, fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with brackets from construction stapler if this is not the case, you can use small cloves or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, take a tight one. It is more expensive, but you only care about three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold plastic well, a soft one will bend and look ugly. Another point - when mounting the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all, or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining the vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, they can be repaired with acrylic.

According to this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed start profile. They are also better to take from expensive and dense, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap ones (ceiling ones), then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.

By width plastic panel there should be more slope. If one is not wide enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the opening line. After removing, cut off along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with mounting foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make it happen, we start from the far lower corner - we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. While we reached the top, the bottom of the foam expanded a little. Again we draw a line with foam, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the tracks thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should be. Align and check. Attach to the wall with masking tape. Also install the second part and then the top. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match with sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, white glue is glued onto the liquid nails. plastic corner. The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue on both shelves of the corner, press it, passing your hand along it, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, until the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

After a day, we remove the adhesive tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it.

Video

See this video for the option of installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame.

Video option for installing slopes made of plastic without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here, pay attention to the finish of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.