Cymbidium rotten roots what to do. Orchid Cymbidium: home care

Cymbidium - home care
Unlike other types of orchids, cymbidium does not require any special conditions. The plant can bloom and develop perfectly under standard room conditions.
Today, about 60 species of cymbidium grow in nature, they all grow in the tropical rainforests of Southeast, South Asia, India, Japan, in the cool mountainous regions of Australia, Indochina, and also in the Malay Archipelago.
The cymbidium has long, narrow leaves that can be rounded or pointed at the end. Green hard pseudobulbs bear up to 8 long leaves each. At comfortable conditions leaves persist for up to three years, then gradually die off and are replaced by young ones.
flowers this plant very fragrant, the smell is pleasant and strong. The flower is able to hold out on the peduncle up to 10 weeks. Flowers can be green, yellow, brown, cream, pink, red. Peduncles grow from the base of young pseudobulbs. Modern hybrids, depending on the variety, bloom in different time, this allows you to have a blooming cymbidium in the house at any time of the year.
The most popular in the world are small hybrids from China and Japan.
This orchid variety is distinguished by its decorative effect and ease of maintenance, which contributed to such a popularity of the flower among fans of floriculture. Features of caring for cymbidium at home

Video: How to grow roots. Cumbria will live!

Caring for a cymbidium at home is not difficult, because the flower is quite unpretentious. Beginner growers often choose to build a collection of orchids starting with the cymbidium.
To create a modern hybrid, plants were used whose homeland is a mountainous area with all the consequences - low night temperatures, high level illumination. All this determines the rules for caring for a cymbidium. Lighting and location of the cymbidium
The plant is photophilous, but in the summer it needs to be shaded, saving from the direct rays of the sun. In winter, we advise you to highlight the cymbidium with special lamps. Ventilation is very useful (but in no case cold drafts!). Temperature regime for cymbidium
The flower likes cool rooms, it does not have a dormant period, therefore it is necessary to organize a constant temperature in the range from 16 to 20 degrees. It is recommended to create temperature fluctuations during the day, at night the thermometer should drop at least a couple of degrees. The summer season allows you to take the orchid into the fresh air.
Temperature differences are not necessary only for dwarf species, they are allowed to be constantly kept at normal room temperature. Rules for watering cymbidium
The soil in the pot is kept moist from spring to autumn, using soft water at room temperature. All excess liquid must be drained from the pan. in winter period in a cool room, the cymbidium is watered less, preventing the pseudobulbs from wrinkling and the earthy clod from drying out.

Video: Orchid Cymbidium (Cymbidium) without roots (dry roots). Almost 3 months later

Rotting of the root system occurs with an excess of moisture. The main sign of decay is the appearance of black spots at the base of the leaf. Humidity for cymbidium
Caring for cymbidium at home also consists of maintaining high humidity air. Humidity of 50-60% is ideal for a flower. It is not difficult to create such conditions; it is enough to put the flowerpot on wet pebbles. The plant can not be sprayed (at low temperatures it is completely harmful). Fertilizer for cymbidium
Fertilize the cymbidium with a liquid mineral fertilizer once every two weeks. It is better to use special dressings for orchids. In winter, top dressing should not contain a lot of nitrogen. Rules for transplanting cymbidium
Like other orchids, cymbidiums do not tolerate transplantation well, therefore it is better not to carry out such a procedure without the need. The flower is transplanted purely as needed, for example, if the previous capacity has become small. Every year you need to pour the substrate for orchids, remove a little upper layer earth in a container. When adding soil or transplanting a plant, pseudobulbs should not be buried - this will lead to their decay. Land for cymbidium
Most often, purchased land is used for orchids. It is also allowed to create a suitable mixture from the bark of trees (conifers), as additives, use charcoal, sphagnum, expanded clay, vermiculite, leafy soil, coarse sand. Reproduction of cymbidium
Propagation of cymbidiums is best done by dividing or using bulbs that bloomed in the previous season ("spare bulbs").
After the plant has flowered or in early spring its rhizome is divided with a knife so that each part has at least three pseudobulbs and one growth point. All parts are seated in containers, watering moderately for one to two months. With the resumption of growth, you can switch to the usual mode of cultivation. Cymbidium pests
Most often, the cymbidium damages aphids, scale insects and spider mites. From this, parts of the plant can become deformed, the flowers wrinkle, fall off without even blooming, and the foliage turns yellow.
This flower is exposed more often than other orchids viral diseases, the main feature of which are spots (mosaic) on the foliage. In our time, there are no effective measures to combat such a scourge, so the diseased plant is destroyed. However, if you organize a regular and proper care for cymbidium at home, it will delight you with beauty and health for a long time!

I could not resist once again and bought a discounted cymbidium. Firstly, the difference is 600 re (despite the fact that when the flowering one fades, it will be the same as the discounted one); secondly, it’s just a pity for them (there are such markdowns that no one needs).
She brought it home and began to rummage through the tyrnet: what to do with him???
All that I post here is the integration of all the tips found, passed through my own possibilities and thoughts. So.
1. We take out the bush from the pot (as a rule, it is easily removed) and soak it in a basin in warm water so that the roots can be untangled. I "forgot" my flower in the water for 5 hours)))

2. There can be anything!!!


3. Well, if the plant has small sprouts (lower left) - this gives hope for a successful future life. Be careful, don't break it!


4. This is how all beauty looks!


5. Carefully unravel // unwind the ball with roots. With a very sharp knife (scissors will not work!) We cut off everything loose, hollow, squelching with water when pressed. Healthy roots are dense, white or yellowish. We have very few left...




6. Once again, we wash everything with running warm water to see unwashed areas. If the roots also have leaves of a suspicious dark color, then it is better to remove them: from the end of the leaf we tear in two along the longitudinal vein and at the root in different sides remove carefully.
The forums also advise treating the plant with an antibiotic, but in principle we don’t have them at home, therefore it’s not fate)))
7. Treat all sections with brilliant green (or iodine, or alcohol, or vodka, or garden pitch - who has what!)




8. Put to dry in a warm place (I put it near the radiator in the corner of the kitchen) and sprinkle with cinnamon or charcoal.


Mine took a day and a half to dry. While drying, a worm (mosquito) fell out of it. I had to once again climb into all the holes and fill them with brilliant green.
9. We take a pot (plastic!) With large holes at the bottom and a mixture for orchids (you can do it yourself): pine bark, sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, a bit of peat. Expanded clay can be placed at the bottom of the pot. We plant so that all the bulbs are on the surface:


10. For the entourage we cover beautiful pot(planter):

Don't water for a week!

I hope my flower will survive, and my experience will be useful to someone!

To print

Cymbidium is called the king of orchids. But when growing it, many flower growers face certain difficulties. Consider the most common mistakes when caring for this orchid.

1. Overwatering

The cymbidium orchid needs water only in the morning This will allow the plant to dry out and prepare for the low night temperatures. During active orchid growth, it is recommended to keep the soil moist at all times, but not damp. In the warm season, the cymbidium needs to be watered often: once a week, and much less often in the cold season. At the end of summer, when the bulbs finish growing, watering should be reduced. But this does not mean that you need to let the orchids dry completely.

2. Bright lighting

When the orchids get enough light, the leaves turn yellow-green, and if there is not enough, they turn dark green. However, direct sunlight leads to yellowing of the leaves, so the orchid is best placed on the windowsill of an east-facing window. The plant must be protected from direct sun rays especially at noon. With a lack of light in the room, it is advisable to illuminate the cymbidium with special lamps.

3. High temperature

Spring, summer and autumn optimum temperature for the growth and flowering of these orchids, it is considered 24-29 ° C during the day and 10-15 ° C at night. In order to provoke flowering in a cymbidium, it is necessary to provide it with a difference between day and night temperatures. AT summer time– from 20°С to 15°С. In winter, during the day, the temperature should be within 18-23°C, and at night 7-12°C. The minimum difference between day and night temperature should be about 5 °C. Only such a temperature regime will ensure impressive flowering.

4. Hot and dry room

Artificial heating in winter time leads to a decrease in air humidity. To maintain sufficient humidity (30-40%), place a tray with water under the pot with cymbidium, and provide the plant with good air circulation.

5. Wrong feeding time

In order to provide the cymbidium with sufficient nutrition, it is necessary to fertilize the orchid with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content every month from January to July (for example, liquid complex fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 22:14:14 are suitable). From August to December, it is recommended to use fertilizers with a low nitrogen content (0:10:10) on the same schedule.

6. Unsuitable soil mix

When choosing a substrate for cymbidium, it is better to give preference ready mixes for orchids, which can be found in specialized stores or prepared independently from tree bark compost (2 hours), peat (2 hours) and river sand (1 hour). Good drainage is a must. For planting orchids, it is better to use clay pots, as the water from them evaporates faster.

7. Frequent transplant

Cymbidium should be repotted every 2-3 years (depending on the condition of the plant). It is worth paying attention to the fact that this orchid does not need a spacious pot. With a large volume of the pot, the substrate will remain wet for a long time. A transplant is required only when a large lump of pseudobulbs has formed. Healthy roots are White color. Sterile before planting cutting tool it is necessary to remove dead roots and cut off the damaged parts.

8. Earlier removal of the peduncle

After the orchid has faded, do not rush to remove the peduncle. It can only be cut when it is completely brown. This will ensure the further development of the leaves.

To print

Home care for the cymbidium orchid - an evergreen plant of the orchid family - can only be successful if its owner has a certain amount of knowledge. To help flower growers who are going to start growing this amazingly beautiful orchid, we will consider the basic requirements for placement, watering, soil composition and transplantation, we will talk about ways to deal with diseases and pests.

About the nuances of creating a microclimate

In order for the tropical beauty to adapt to a new habitat as quickly as possible, it is necessary to create the most comfortable environment for her, taking care of the right lighting, humidity level and optimal temperature conditions.

• The key to good health and abundant flowering cymbidium orchids is the right lighting: it should be bright enough, but diffused. During spring and summer, when solar Activity is high enough, it is better to place a flower pot in a room located on the western or eastern side of the building. From direct sunlight, which can leave burns on delicate leaves and flowers, the cymbidium must be protected with a light curtain or gauze screen. With the onset of autumn, it is advisable to put the orchid on the windowsill of a south-facing window. Since the length of daylight hours for a tropical flower should be at least 12 hours, in winter it will need additional illumination with a fluorescent lamp. A kind of indicator of the sufficiency of lighting is the color of the leaves: in a well-lit plant, they are golden-green; with a lack of light, the leaves quickly turn yellow and, losing elasticity, become flabby.
• An equally important factor for the harmonious development of cymbidium is the optimal (at least 60%) level of air humidity. To fulfill this condition, the orchid pot can be placed in a deep pan filled with wet expanded clay or drainage pebbles. Great solution Problems can be an indoor fountain installed next to the flower. Throughout summer period cymbidium needs abundant (at least three times a day) daily spraying, during which it is necessary to moisten not the front, but the back side of the leaves, trying to avoid getting moisture on the delicate petals. In winter, when the air in city apartments becomes dry due to running batteries central heating, plants will also have to be sprayed, choosing morning and evening hours for this. If the planter with cymbidium is in a cool room, the need for spraying is completely eliminated.
• The guarantor of the luxurious flowering of the cymbidium orchid is the observance of the optimal temperature regime, providing for the obligatory contrast of day and night temperatures during the laying of peduncles, which falls at the very beginning of summer (the required temperature difference is 5-6 degrees). In the summer months, the orchid will feel great at 17-23 degrees during the day and 12-15 at night. During the autumn-winter and spring periods, the range of temperatures that are comfortable for her is 15-17 degrees during the day and 10-12 at night. Among experienced flower growers, the cymbidium is called the "orchid for cool rooms." Justifying this name, the flower needs a constant influx fresh air, that's why perfect place for its growth can be a loggia, veranda or corner of the garden, protected from wind and direct sunlight. As soon as the air outside warms up to 12 degrees, the cymbidium can be safely taken out of the apartment and left there until late autumn.

About the features of watering

How to water the cymbidium? Its watering should be moderate and in direct proportion to temperature. environment: the warmer the air in the room, the more often and more abundantly the flower should be watered.

• Excess moisture should flow freely from the planter, allowing the substrate to dry out between waterings. There can be no talk of any stagnation of liquid in the pot. In relation to the cymbidium, the rule is true: "underfilling is better than overfilling." It is able to endure short-term periods of soil drying due to pseudobulbs, which create quite significant moisture reserves.
• Confirmation that the orchid needs another watering is the absence of condensation on the walls of the flower pot. You can also use traditional way by dipping your finger into the thickness of the substrate. Water for watering an orchid should be boiled or settled, and its temperature should be a couple of degrees higher than the ambient temperature.
• If the cymbidium is watered from above, care must be taken to ensure that water does not get into the very core of the leaf rosette, since stagnation of liquid in it can destroy the plant, causing tissue rotting. If this nevertheless happened, it is necessary to immediately remove the liquid from the growth point using a soft cloth.
• It is best to water the cymbidium by immersing the planter in a deep container of water. This method of watering eliminates the risk of liquid getting into the growing point, and also contributes to uniform wetting of the substrate in the pot. best time for watering orchids are the morning hours. The water accumulated in the pan must be drained so as not to provoke rotting of the root system.
• When watering a cymbidium in winter, it should be remembered that at this time it is permissible to do this no more than twice a month, but a strong drying of the soil is still unacceptable. An acute lack of fluid can lead to wrinkling of the pseudobulbs and premature abscission of the flowers. Simultaneously occasional watering stimulate the emergence of new peduncles.
• Wrinkling of pseudobulbs (even significant ones) should not be a cause for serious concern: one has only to water the cymbidium, and in two days their lost turgor will be completely restored. If, after watering, the pseudobulbs remained wrinkled and flabby, it means that there were problems with the functioning of the root system. To remedy the situation, the frequency of watering should be reduced and wait for the growth of young roots.

About top dressing and preparation of the substrate

• They feed the cymbidium with special mineral fertilizers for orchids, applying top dressing at every second watering (two top dressings will be obtained within a month), starting from spring and until flowering. During the flowering period and after it, the plants do not fertilize, taking a break until the next spring. The dosage of fertilizer should be three times less than that indicated in the instructions for the preparation used. Before applying fertilizer, it is extremely important to shed the orchid so as not to burn its sensitive roots.
• A special discussion requires the composition of the substrate for growing cymbidium. Inexperienced flower growers can use ready-made soil mixtures designed for ground orchids and sold in any flower shop. Enthusiastic flower growers prefer to make the soil on their own. Knowing that the cymbidium prefers acidic soil mixtures, they take three parts of boiled and crushed pine bark, two parts of dry moss (sphagnum) and one part of perlite, leaf humus, fine charcoal, thoroughly rotted mullein manure and sand. Sphagnum is of particular importance if the cymbidium is grown in a room that is too warm for it. Particularly “advanced” orchid lovers add small fragments of lava, fern roots, pre-boiled and chopped shells, pieces of pumice to the soil. Drainage is necessarily added to the orchid pot: small pebbles, pieces of foam, expanded clay and ceramic shards.

Secrets of transplantation and reproduction

The need for a cymbidium transplant occurs approximately every three years (given the painfulness of this procedure for orchids, you should not do this more often), be sure to wait until the end of flowering.

If the care of the cymbidium is carried out correctly, each of its bulbs can give a couple of children a year, so the grower should not have a shortage of planting material. The signal that there is a need for a transplant is appearance flower: in an overgrown plant in the central part of the cache-pot, dry bulbs are concentrated, which have a brown color, and greenery is crowded around the circumference; the roots are thickened so that it is impossible to stick a finger through them.

• Carefully taking the cymbidium out of the pots, inspect root system, representing a conglomerate consisting of a dense plexus of old and young roots. Old roots, painted gray, will be located at the bottom of the earthen clod, and young and healthy roots, which are light green in color, are localized at the very top edge of the substrate.
• Having found the border that separates the young roots, cut off the lower part of the soil clod with a sharp (necessarily clean) knife. After that, with extreme care, they clean off the soil and divide the rhizome into parts intended for transplanting into individual pots. When dividing the cymbidium, it is very important to keep the combination of old bulbs with young roots (a pair of green roots per brown bulb): the young plant needs them as storage nutrients and water.
• Rinsing the resulting delenki under a jet running water, carefully examine planting material. Old roots are removed, and young ones are shortened to one decimeter. For some time, the delenki are left in the open air, allowing the cuts to heal a little.
• Prepared delenki are planted in small pots (several pieces at once or individually in one wide pot), not forgetting to put a layer of good drainage on the bottom. The roots are carefully straightened, and the pot is rather tightly filled with a slightly moistened substrate, trying to reduce the number of large air cavities (this will help retain moisture in the soil and accelerate the emergence of new shoots and leaves). The size of the new pot should be slightly over size root system of a young plant.

In the intervals between transplants, part of the substrate in the pot is renewed annually, removing the top layer of the old soil and replacing it with a new one. Some flower growers, who are afraid of damaging the root system of their pets, prefer to transplant them into a larger container using a simple transshipment method.

When choosing a new orchid planter (it is best to prefer products made of transparent plastic), you need to make sure that there are large drainage holes on the bottom, and its size is only a couple of units larger than the previous one.

About pest and disease control

Cymbidium suffers from diseases common to all orchids: fungal and bacterial rot, all kinds of viral infections, among flower growers referred to as "spotting". Diseases should be differentiated from care errors. Only with the correct diagnosis can the death of the plant be prevented.

Cymbidium diseases are divided into two categories (according to which part of the flower - roots or leaves - is damaged):

• The appearance of spots and circles on the leaves indicates a fungal or viral infection. Having noticed suspicious signs, the plant is isolated by cutting off all damaged leaves. Each section is disinfected by lubricating with a solution of iodine or brilliant green, after which the plant is sprayed and spilled with a fungicide solution. With the defeat of the viral mosaic, the death of the cymbidium is inevitable, therefore it is better to get rid of the affected flower immediately.
• Exposure to soil fungi can cause orchid wilt. characteristic feature such a lesion is a specific putrefactive odor and the presence of fungal mycelium in the substrate. To save the cymbidium, it is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are thoroughly washed with a stream of running water and transplanted into another flowerpot with a fresh substrate.

Cymbidium is often attacked by insect pests:

To prevent the appearance of spider mites attacking plants kept in hot rooms with very dry air, the orchid must be sprayed periodically. If insects nevertheless appeared, it is necessary to treat the flower with a solution of an acaricidal preparation.
Mealybugs, sucking juices from the stems, leaves and tubers of the plant, provoke blackening of the affected tissues. You can get rid of them with alcohol. First, the areas attacked by pests are wiped with a cotton swab moistened with alcohol, and then treated with a contact insecticidal preparation.
Scale insects and aphids are removed from the plant with a sponge soaked in a soap solution, and then sprayed with an insecticide.

How to fix nursing mistakes?

• Black spots that appear at the very base of the leaves indicate waterlogging of the substrate.
• Falling off and underdevelopment of buds can occur due to a lack of trace elements in the soil.
• If the leaves of the cymbidium are deformed and turn yellow, the buds shrivel and fall off - this may be the result of an attack by pests.
• Shrinkage of the pseudobulb may result from insufficient watering.
• Sometimes cymbidium leaves turn yellow because the plant has fallen victim to too much light. In this case, it must be placed in a darker part of the room for a while.
• If the orchid leaves dry, this may be the result of either insufficient watering or chronic waterlogging of the substrate, which caused the roots to rot.
• Sometimes the leaves of the cymbidium begin to turn red and fall off. This symptom indicates an overabundance of lighting. Noticing this alarm signal, the owner of the flower should immediately move the pot with it to a more favorable place. Otherwise, the plant will inevitably lose all the leaves and may die.
• Complete fall of the leaves can be the result of excessive moisture of the cymbidium, leading to stagnation of water at the point of growth, leading to rotting of the foliage. Fusarium wilt, provoked by a combination of high humidity air with a low temperature of the substrate in a pot. These conditions give impetus to the activation of mold fungi.